Hi, I already made an instructable, and posted it after the start of the home improvement contest, but im having trouble entering the contest.
Topic by zowzow 1 year ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hi, I already made an instructable, and posted it after the start of the home improvement contest, but im having trouble entering the contest.
Topic by zowzow 1 year ago | last reply 2 months ago
Sometimes I get weird ideas that I can't shake off :)When I was looking into options for a 12 compressor fridge freezer combo I was stunned.You a get a fullsized frrezer for far less!A further check revealed that it is mainly the linear compressor that makes the price plus the usual mark ups.Efficiency and especially start up is far better with thes compressors than out standard rotary and piston drive models.But why would it be so impossible to replace the motor from a standard compressor with a brushless DC one?I focussed on three things for the start:Lubrication, cooling and sealing.There is no such thing like a simple compressor with a piston system that does have some leaking.So apart from the noise the enclosure really needs to be welded and sealed again.Everything moving inside is lubricated by the drive shaft - it acts like a little pump.Same for the cooling of these vital parts.The oil flow exchanges heat through the big metal housing.A replacement motor would need to be suited to run in such a messy enviroment.Of course something to provide a proper oil flow needs to be created too if the drive shaft is replaced.With some basic enineering this might be possible, same for the motor mount and wiring to the outside.But what to do about the full load starting conditions that can happen?Even with no load from the cooling system the motor needs massive torque to get the piston moving.A bypass valve that closes once the motor is at proper speeds might work but hard to implement in a tight space.Any ideas?Did you ever try something that stupid?Could you make it work?What about a rotary compressor with external drive?We use ice blenders that have a magnetic base and the actual connection is made through the magnetic forces alone.A scroll compressor has lots of space without the original motor inside.Plus, a round pipe is easier to work with when it comes to adding or removing things.Small scroll compressors from an airconditioner or small industrial freezer wouldn't have to do much work in a small setup.Best thing is that with a variable speed the cooling power can be adjusted.How feasable would it be to use some polycarbonate end plate and a magnetically coupled drive ?Modern BLDC motors offer great performance and suitable gear systems are readily available.N52 neodymium magnets of the block type provide several kg of force if close enough to each other - should be enough to make a compressor spin...In return it could mean to have a nice freezer or even airconditioner that runs directly on solar power.No massive losses from inverters, no need for huge battery banks either.As long as the sun is out you have free power, once down you can still switch to a power supply for the motor or use battery power.Just imagine you come home after long day of work and the house is already cool.And you did not have to pay a cent to get it cool or wait for hours for it to reach this temperature!We love to add solar panels to our houses in the hope to get a few cents back from our energy providers.The sad reality often is that you might be able to power all your needs during the day but the excess that goes back to the grid often pays next to nothing.But if you could power a lot more things like a compressor directly with the electricity from your panels....Then these kWh would not appear on your usage bill either.Means you neither use what the power provider compensates you for nor is it "wasted" thorugh this bogus compensation.The normal solar setup can then provide you with this little extra money while an additional set powers the motors for your big freezer or little airconditioner - little being relative to what you make of the idea ;)If you really dare than you could even use your bike and legs to power your fridge directly ;)Use your imagination :)
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Mouse Mouse was last seen on tour with us at Austin's SXSW earlier this week. He made lots of friends at Dorkbot on Saturday, but someone walked off with him while we were setting up at Sunday's PopSci party! Did he go on walkabout, join a punk band, or leave with a cute female Mouse Mouse? We hope so, but suspect he was simply abducted and can't contact us for help. If you have any information, please let us know! No kidding, I only made one1 and would really like to have him back. Drop me a note if you've got any news on his whereabouts. We'll take him back, no questions asked.1Yes, I can and will make another, but it's my art project, and therefore unique. (You may know how to make more children, but still want to keep the ones you've made.)
Topic by canida 11 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
If we look up sonic drills today we usually get some fancy machines driving pipes in the ground, preferably softer ground.But the term includes all types of machines that use sonic vibrations to advance through a media.With the ancient and claimed to have never existed technologies in mind I did some digging...In the food industry vibrating knifes are quite common, same for "air knifes" on softer food.Even in the meat industry they find more and more uses now.Ultrasonic cutting or welding is the same thing and included in "sonic".Same for some experimental sub sonic drilling methods currently being tested.The general idea might be as old as using vibrating equippment to compact stuff, like concrete, bricks and so on.What you can compact by vibration you can also make "fluid" by vibration.Industrial feeder systems utilise this to the extreme by even making light and fine particles like flour move like water without causing any dusting.What all the techniques have in common that a suitable tool or tool head is used and that it is attempted to use the most suitable vibration frequency for the job.Anyone operating an ultrasonic welder knows the pain of finetuning for a new electrode or just new part to be welded.What does that tell us now that makes the understanding easier?Take a bottle of ketchup, preferably one that is still quite full.Turn it upside down and noothing comes out.Shake it a bit and you are either lucky or drowned in red.But hold it at an angle and start tapping it and the red sauce flows out easily.What it true for most newtonian fluids is in some way also true for non-newtonian fluids.Ever mixed corn starch and water to make these funny experiments with it?Hit it hard and it reacts really hard and is not sticky at all.Leave your hand resting on it and in sinks in and sticks to it.Stirring it very slowly is easy, go faster and you get stuck.You can do similar things with by using an external source for vibrations.For example a vibration speaker mounted to a smal cup of the goo.If you place sand on a sloped piece of plastic or sheet metal then at a low angle it will pile up easy and stay.Start vibrating the plate and the sand will start to flow off.Works fine with a vibration source mounted to a piece of steel bar or rod and a bucket of sand too.Trying to press it into the sand requires a lot of force, especially once you are a bit deeper.Let it vibrate properly and it slides rights down.If we can do the simple stuff as well as really complicated stuff in the industry then what about other materials?So far we use vibrations to make things move out of the way, compact things, transport them or to heat them up for welding plus some cutting applications.Considering the variety one might wonder why no one tries it for "difficult" materials.Machined surface can be found throughout ancient history.Finding "machined things" were vibrations was clearly used is a bit harder.The great walls are not a perfect example here as the views differ quite a bit on how they could have been created.But if we leave things melting them or a secret concret like recipe for creating for example granite then vibrations start to make some sense.You find some interesting videos on youtube where people use speakers, wires and rocks to confirm you can actually "machine" them by vibrations.Especially granite has some quite musical properties, big boulders as well as smaller ones produce destinct sounds when you hit them hard.Tests and measurements were made on granite and other hard rocks to check how fast sound travels in them , how it is refeclted and where the sound comes out or affects the surface the most.Lets just say every sample gave different results.Shape, density and dimensions affect not just the resonant frequency but also where and how the sound travels in the rock.What if??We can use a simple speaker, a plate and some rice to see how patterns form under various frequencies.Works with sand or other granules as well.The interesting patterns are the so called harmoncis.Here we see clear and destinct patters, sometimes with extremely fine lines and areas of softly vibrating granules.Some people say these harmonic frequencies have all special meanings and uses.We mainly used them to avoid problems.Imagine your new TV would not have a housing tested to be stable with all frequencies the speakers can produce.All of a sudden your back of the TV might start to rattle ;)Same for car engines.Harmonic vibrations are eliminated wherever possible.Otherwise they could multiply and affect other things in the engine or around it.Simply put it means we have various options to detect and measure vibrations on a surface or in a system.Back in the day every half decent backup generator had a mechanical indicator for the frequency of the supplied electricity.A set of tiny forks with the desired on painted red and several on either side of it.These forks were designed to get into harmonic and therfor quite intense vibrations at their set frequency.If the one for 50Hz looked blurry then all was good ;)The same principle god be applied on a big boulder of granite.Place the "vibration meter" at the desired spot and start moving around the vibration source on the surface until you find a spot that causes maximum response on the meter.Best thing here is that if you then place that surface area onto another peice of fixed in place granite both pieces will start to loose substance if vibrations are applied.The fine sediment forming is then usable as an indicator where to move the vibration source to continue once the effect literally wears off.Is it feasable?Well, if we trust mainstream science then the answer is no.A huge amount of vibration energy would be required for such a hard material, despite ancient proof that says otherwise.Semi industrial test also seemed to confirm the theory as only with very high amplitudes (loudness) and while automatically adjusting for the resonant frequency changes a measurable amount of material was removed.I struggle a bit with that as for the testing tool heads made from hardened steel or carbide were used.And that with little or no regards on how the head and tool itself affects the output.I mean in terms of having the max possible movement happening right t the tool contact surface!There is a huge difference between applying a vibration to a tool and using a system, tool and tool head DESIGNED to work at the desired frequency!Otherwise we wouldn't need a computer to design and test a horn for welding purposes or shade a knife spefically so that the vibration go along the right axis and in the right direction.You not break a hard thing with a very soft thing unless it travels fast enough to become harder as the target!This complicated explanation basically just confirms that if you hit water at a too high speed then it will just break you into pieces instead of offering a soft splashPlease do not jump of bridges or such to confirm this yourself!!If that is really true and science says it is, then how about the other way around?Works fine too, or we wouldn't have pressure washers or water cutters.Now for the part where I hope some really smart people leave helpful comments:If we can cut steel with just a stream of water, then I ask:Isn't for example copper much harder than water?Steel is much harder than copper but water cuts through it.The answer here it simple or complicated, depending on how you want to expain how it works.Comes down to speed and pressure plus the right nozzle shape to prevent a beam expansion.But then water is indeed "harder than steel".Questions:Lets say we would use a copper pipe that in lenght, thickness, hardness and diameter is optimised to transmit a frequency so the pipe end sees the max vibration like a feed horn for ultrasonic welding.Not to hard to calculate these days :)Now imagine said "main frequency" would be optimised for the pipe but also be a harmonic frequency of the rock to be worked on.The pipe end would deform quickly, abrasion does the rest and it fails before even making a decent sratch that is not copper metal on granite.No matter how hard we press nothing good enough will ever happen.BUT: If we would add more hormainc frequencies to feed our pipe we can multiply the amplitude quite easy!Just try with a sound generator from your app store, needs 2 or more channels to be usable.Pick for example 400hZ on one and 800Hz on another, then finetune around these number to hear how the tone changes ;)My theory goes like this:If all "working frequencies" would just harmonics of the resonant frequency of the granite, then they can be tuned so the effect on the pipe end is minimised.The overlaying frequencies however should result in the same effect a water cutter has: The pipe becomes ultra hard.The better the match and the more you have to get it right the harder the pipe will be.Adding now a "drilling frequency" or multiple could be used to drive these harmonics slightly out of phase.Like with the sound generator on your phone we end up with a pulsating sound, or vibration.While the pipe still vibrates at the same "hardening" mix the drilling frequency creates a peak like a jackhammer.Try it by using the heaphone output on a small speaker and placing some light and tiny things into the cone.The will violently jump around during these pulsing tones.For a drilling system the output can be mechanically maximised by utilising a pitchfork design.A head holds the vibration speakers and the tynes are tuned good enough to the frequency of the speakers.Always two would have to operate in sync though as otherwise the pitchfork movement that transfers the sound down the center bar won't work.This head could then be desgined to act as a holder for a quick change of work out pipes that are no longer long enough for tuning.I guesstimate that a well tuned design would result in a copper pipe being able to drill at least 10 to 15cm into solid granite before it wears off too much.And we are talking here about just a few mm to get the thing out of tune!But would dare to desing such a thing just to confirm a theory that no one ever really dared to test? ;)And if friction welding works as good as ultrasonic welding, then what would happen if we try this with the right frequencies and vibrations instead of wasting tons of energy?
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago
I can't login. Yes I'm sure my username and password are right, my browser was even catching them. If I'm viewing an instructable and click Add Comment, the login box pops up, I enter valid login details, and it just goes back to the instructable page without my being logged in. If I try to do the same again, the cycle keeps repeating. I don't feel there's anything I need to do, that the site has a problem. I wanted to just notify site staff but when I click the contact link at the bottom of a page it takes me to the forum, which is yet another site bug... I don't want a forum when I click a contact link, I don't want help, I want to CONTACT site staff so they can fix the site problem.
Topic by ac-dc 7 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I recieved a free, working TV the other day. The only problem with it was the pin from an RCA video cable had broken off inside the socket. I didn't want to spend money on an RF modulator for my DVD Player, so I figured out a pretty solid way of getting the pin out. 1.) Find a needle 2.) On a hard surface, bend the very tip of the needle slightly so that it forms a tiny barb. 3.) heat the tip of the needle with a lighter until it glows red hot. 4.) stick the needle into the plastic core of the broken RCA pin 5.) wait a few seconds for it to cool 6.) pull the needle out, and the broken tip should follow!
Topic by spenjmn 11 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Check out the new standing desk that I built yesterday. My previous standing desk was working just fine, it just wasn't in the kitchen. Kitchen gravity has been pulling me out of the spare bedroom/office and into the kitchen, where everyone else hangs out. Working on my laptop at the kitchen table was killing my wrists, so I mounted a proper setup to the wall. The LCD is held to the wall with an Ergotron Lx Wall Mount, and the Kensington 60044 Keyboard tray (also seen in my Ergonomic Workstation ), is mounted to a small shelf built from triangular brackets, 2x4's, and a plywood top surface.It seems to be working pretty well, and the kitchen now appears to a have "helm."I've got an Instructable in progress on the keyboard shown in the pictures, so look for that soon.EDIT:How to make a vertical, ergonomic tie-fighter keyboard is done!See the on-the-go version of this standing desk here in Handy Tricks Six.
Topic by ewilhelm 12 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hello everyone,I'm currently trying to design a small control two wheel robot (similar to an ollie by sphero) that is capable to be moved remotely or can be coded to follow a set of instructions if it is not being controled by the user. I heard from many of my colleges arduinos are the best way to go but I have no idea where to start, any feedback or advice would be helpful.
Topic by donayre21 2 months ago
I'm trying to waterproof the inside of a box by gluing plastic to the sides. The plastic is already in the right shape (I melted the edges together). The problem is that the epoxy sticks to the wood but not the plastic. It just peels right off. Any suggestions? It doesn't even have to be glue. You'll probably hate to hear this, but lots of stuff isn't available here, hence hackish solutions are probably the best. Thanks for any help. Just so you can get the idea a bit better I'm attaching a picture.
Topic by Nateowami 4 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Some people just love to play with magnets and have a lot of them.If you are just like that and like to tinker a bit then I might have something for you.What magnets you use for the following experiment does not really matter but you should have 20 or 30 of identical properties.Can be disk magnets, block magnets or cubes, just not spheres ;)If you have a 3D printer you use it to make it fancy but a peice of wood, acrylic or such and a drill will do for round magnets.For cubes or flat packs you can make retaining walls on a flat surface.The experiment goes like this:I assume you already tried ways to combine your magnets to make them stronger, like stacking them up.But there is another way to really increase how strong they are combined.Start with one magnet at the center.Then like a ring add more magnets around it but with the oppisite side up.The created mounting solution is to prevent them flipping up and together, you want them as close as possible though.Add another ring and change the direction of the field again.Try this magnet, once all magnets are secured and compare the holding strenght to any other combo you tried so far.It will be much higher for the same amount of magnets.If you want to prevent the use of glue then try to create your mounting system with a really flat but strong enough bottom - this will then be the contact surface.Slightly reduced strength but you can re-use magnet with ease.But if you want to get a really strong one you need cube magnets.Like before you want to create some sort of grid, this time we go for a square.Start with cube in the center, facing north up.Leave enough space in your construction to add 8 more cubes around it - like on the face of a rubik's cube.Leave them empty for now !Add nother row, this time 16 to keep the square.Of course these one go with the south side facing up!Again one empty of 48 and then one last one with north side up with 196 magnets.Ok, to be fair, you wouldn't be able to pull it off a metal surface unless you used really tiny cubes, so if in doubt then go for just to 48 and leave the enter one out for now.Should be quite intense but similar to what any other shaped magnet would have done.Time to fill the voids!Add the cubes in the spce between the magnets so the north and south side face the magnets next to it!So basically sideways but in the correct orientation.You can then also add the center piece - try either orientation for that one ;)What happened now is that you forced the magnetic field lines to go up instead od for trying to go the easiest and shortest way to the next magnet.And "up" is where our magnetic surface would be, which provides the now overdue shortcut for the magnetic fields.Be amased how much stronger this version is and how much even 3x3x3 cubes would accomplish.With 10x10x10mm N52 magnets you might be able to use them support our wieght if you pull straight dwon from a horizontal surface...Ok, kidding, not just might, unless you are really big...One 10x10x10 might hold about 6kg.Stacked up a bit more but having 20 or stcked up would not be much stronger than 10.Even just 25 magnets with one in the center, one row of sideways orientated and one row with opposing field to the center one would be hard to remove from a steel surface.If we go with the imagined 6kg per magnet we could assume to get 25 x 6 = 150kg of holding power.Check you single magnet first then compare to the square of 25 ;)Consider using some plastic between magnet and surface so you can at least slide or pry it off if you have to.You can also combine magnets or a new one that has one side appear much stronger than the other.Meaning that for example on the north side it could hold 20kg while on the south side only 5.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago
I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
When someone starts talking about a so called magnetmotor than most people judge right away.Laws of physics, perpetuum mobile is impossible, magnets are static....We all know the limitations nature puts on us... That however did not stop quite a few people since the 1950's to build working magnet motors. Or, to be precise: To make the claim, show them and then somehow disappear. A few though seem to have survived and even claim to make good business. Securely closed machine, stellite tracking and 24/7 online monitoring. Either just a bad and long running hoax or a real attempt to keep a secret secret. Even the somewhat famous Yildiz motor showed off around the world only to disappear.Some like them, some don't. Either way all this sounds like the perfect conspirary theory LOL So lets take a look on what is fake and what might be real but missing some vital clues. You can find several good Youtube channels created by people trying to build a working magnet motor. Some of them have no problems to admit failure and still keep trying and updating their projects. Did long enough and you see two outcomes. The first is giving up or "realising" that it will never work. The second often seems like a user is getting some relly good results and is really close to keep the magnetmotor running. Both disappear without and updates or traces. Now of course this is just confirmation that it will never work, but then again: What if it did already quite a few times? Even Tesla had patents for a magnetmotor and so far none of his patents were a hoax. Although none of his patents allow to actually build a working devices without some additional info and knowledge. And that is the key that I am trying to get: The lost knowledge.How can a magnetmotor never work? That one is quite simple from the start. If a linear model won't work no matter where you start then a rotary version will fail as well. And if a linear version works, it has to do so far at least 5 segments and with preferably increasing or at least constant speed. Having said that and assuming you know a little bit about magnetism: Ever wondered about shapes of magnets?? The common types are block, round like a bar and those disk like ones, some even with holes. A less well known version is the ring magnet. You can look them up as well as their corresponding magnetic field geometry - or what is assumed to be the right geometry. To give you a clue: All those floating spinning toys use a ring magnet in the base and onother one in the spinner. In the center is a dead zone for the magnetic field that is far lower than further out on the ring. And the strnger outer fields also reach further - giving the entire spinner a bowl like area to float on, the spinning just stabilises it like a gyroscope. A similar flat disk magnet wouldn't have this indentation in the field but rather a dome like sphere. The ring just kicks a dint into this sphere if you don't mind the simpification. Similar changes in the field structure happen when you combine two or more magnets. One example we all know is stacking identical smaller magnets. And often we are suprised how much stronger two thin disk magnets are compared to a single. Distance however sets a certain limit. And take those hook magnets... Just a small ring magnet in a metal pot with core. Remove the magnet and just by itself it is far weaker. Why? Quite simple.... The same way a transformer core directs the magnetic flow, the metal part of the hook magnet provides a shortcut for the magnetic field - and in return all is much stronger ;) Now you have some more clues, but still there are tons of options for failure... The most common is the sticking effect. No matter how well you planned and designed in most cases you linear or rotary prototype will stall sooner or later. Even if started manually at high speeds some seem to run very long but once they slow down and stop it is obvious they always stop where the magnetic field won't allow the binding effect to be overcome.Wouldn't dare to say that I have a working magnetmotor, but I might have some clues you want to try if you decide to give it a try yourself. So how COULD a magnetmotor actually work? Like in the Perendiv examples all over the web, you could aloow a moving responder to the rotor. Like a piston the responder will be lifted in areas it would otherwise limit or reduce the speed of the system. Well designed only a few mm would b required but it also means wasted energy to move the responder. Then there is the nice way of modifying fields by adding magnets in different angles and polarities. Lets say towards the end of your stages on the linear model it is hard to overcome the binding effect from the end of the previous stage. The perendiv model would now somehow change the distances. But you can also add magnets to lower the binding effect ;) Like a ring or hook magnet you can shape the field and offer a stronger repulsin field or a lower binding force. Last but certainly not least is the option of adding magnetic metals like iron or somehow weirder ones like bismuth. So, do we have any examples of something very common utilising any of this? We sure do :) Take a speaker apart and you end with the cage, the membrane, the actual work coil and the magnet. We don't need anything but the magnet so take a good and very close look. What in the audio world is called a shield to prevent the magnet from messing with things close by is exactly the same as on a hook magnet ;) Only difference is the tiny gap for the coil. The magnetic field is directed into two paths, one by the metal core, the other by the inner enclosure of the magnet or the magnet itself. The coil operates in the area of maximum flux.Last hints... If you take two identical and strong magnets with north or south facing up then it is quite hard to push them very close together. But check what happens if you try the same wen both soth poles (or both north poles) are placed on a magnetic surface - if in doubt your standard fridge door. Suddenly you can move much closer together with the same amout of force (not considering the added friction!). And similar story for opposing configurations. Where in free air or on a table the magnets would just jump together, on a metal plated you can move them much, much closer before this happens. Copper pipe and magnet fun :) Ideally you would have a straight copper pipe and a cylindrical magnet that has a loose fit in the pipe. Aluminium pipe work too or even a roll of aluminium foil if you have nothing else. A magnet in the pipe will travel very slow down the pipe, friction is not an issue here. So what is slowing it down? The magnet creates a field in the pipe and through that the pipe generates electicity. And funny enough this electricity creates an opposing magnetic field in the pipe - the magnet slows down. Even if you glue it onto a wooden stick it won't rush through it. Trying to push it by hand and you feel the created resistance. The faster you push, the harder it is to push! If you made it all the way down here with the reading then I have to assume you fit into one of three of my categories. a) You are a total sceptic and just read it for your amusement. If so, then please don't post a reply with usual negative feedback, instead see it as the same fun you had reading it ;) b) You are at least curious and like to play with magnets. In this case take the above as inspiration to explore more ways to have fun with your magnets! c) You are more or less frustated because you wasted a lot of time and some money to build a magnet motor that just won't work. A and B might go on and enjoy the fun, C however might want to read very attentive now ;) If you take some indicator sheet for magnetic fields, like these funny green ones, and play with moving magnets then you see a very interesting effect on the "screen". The otherwise static field lines change chape and sometimes even seem to disappear or shrink. With a small rotor assembly it almost looks like flashes when the magnets move past each other. This effect is often totally neglected and to be honest I overlooked it for a long time as well. Being able to see how the magnetic field changes gives the thing an whole new dimension so to speak. Creating a magnet with a complex shape is difficult to say the least. Only ferrite or ceramic ones can be used and you would cut of machine them according to your desired shape and with regards to the orginal center of the magnetic field. So most people revert to the classic way of shaping by adding magnets of various types, sizes and amounts. Modern neodymium magnets make this trial and error process easier as there are many sizes and strengths available. Add a detector shield of suitable size and you have hours of fun time ahead of you. But doing so in any rotary assembly is next to impossible. So what did Yildiz differently and what was missed so many times? Yildiz took it a step further and not only provided "shunts" to create very strong magnetic field from the generated electricity but also a second rotor. Since we all start small lets focus on the basics first. Remember the hook magnet and speaker or the copper pipe? Some examples for shape shifting your otherwise static magnetic fields: 1. A magnetic metal "connection" from one (low in the armature) pole to an opposing (high in the amature) pole with cause the field from the "high" pole to "bend" towards the connected magnet. 2. A magnet with an orientation of 90° to the last magnet is the sequence will severely influence the field of this last magnet! This goes for either orientations! 3. Adding a non-magnetic "shield" around a magnet, like a piece of copper pipe, will not affect the static field of the magnet. However it will severely alter the field of the enclosed magnet when another magnet passes it! It will also affect the overal field during the passing as the moving magnet will also induce a field in the copper by affecting the field of the enclosed magnet! Thickness and lenght of the shield influence the strength of these effects. 4. In a simple perendiv motor design the bar that creates the attraction for the spinning part is a magnet too. Either a long bar type or two small ones with an iron or nickel rod between them. There is no need for a piston or something that drives the bar up or out of the way ;) Just use the right magnet at the right spot on your rotor to repell the bar ;) Mount the ar with suitable springs and you suddenly can have multiple stages on your rotor instead of just the usual one! Don't forget the moving magnet on the opposing side of the segment in question though as otherwise you still will get stuck. (Hint: You can place a small but powerful magnet in the center of the opposing bar ;) Just make sure you limit the springs movement so the bar won't be pulled closer)Ok, hold on now! Does a magnet motor actually work or not? I can only give hints and say the laws of physics as we know them apply to magnetmotors the same way as everything else. Unlimeted motion without supplying energy is not possible. Limited motion with adding or using energy however is still possible and real. The same is true for being able to machine, 3D print or otherwise manufacture at very tight tolerence and accuracy levels. This includes bearings or bearing systems with very little friction losses. Just check these floting and rotating magnet toys that look like a spindle. Only a tiny needle like pin makes contact with a glass surface - next to no friction loss. A proper and supposedly working magnet motor should provide more energy than what it uses - one way or the other. No law of physics lets us get around the fact that such a motor could only keep spinning if the produced power or motion energy is at least the same as what is required to make it move. Magnets lose their strenght over time, they are like a very slowly depleting battery. So, isn't it funny that all magnet motors so far that claimed to work also had the requirement to replace the magnets once the things fails to work or start? And if you leave a very strong neodymium magnet shielded from outside fields or magnetic stuff than your grandkids will still find a quite strong magnet. Do a little performance test with your new magnets, like how much force is required is required to lift them off a steel plate. Make the same test with the magnets once you played around extensively with them in your motor. Now take a spare magnet that was never used from the orginal batch and compare both against each other ;) If the motor would not use energy then why are the magnets depleted to a certain degree, realted to runtime and usage time? Wait a minute! Does that now mean it actually works? Lets just say energy is certainly used. We only know similar effects from electromagnetic systems. But did anyone ever really check how much actual energy is in magnetic field generated by a non electric magnet? Get a good sized N52 neodymium magnet and check how much force is required to pull it off a steel surface. Now try to get the smallest sized electromagnet capable of that force and check how much energy it consumes at the level that equals the pulling force of the N52 magnet ;) Makes no sense to even try to compare these you will say now. I just say energy is energy and we were formed to only think in certain ways and don't even try silly things like this ;) To keep the fun up let us imagine we would actually have a similar energy available than what our electro magnet would require. In reality more because we wouldn't have electrical or flux related losses in the metal around the coil. Or is the imagined reality, no clue ;) If true it would mean even a motor with very bad efficiency would be able to create huge amounts of torque. Well, torque is basically acceleration. Which would mean our motor would not just be happy to spin, it would speed up until the bearing fail or the thing is ripped apart. Imagine a dental drill of that size and weight suddenly falling apart at full speed... Every example of motors claimed to be working, that are not fakes, seem to be happy no matter what the load is. It the thing turns a generator than it would have to slow down a bit with the increased load but they don't. With no limited factors otherwise this makes them a fake. Even a perfect motor would have to react to load changes.... Don't we agree that the stronger the magnetic force or field in a conductor the stronger the resulting magnetic and opposing field of the conductor? We use the difference to either drive a motor or take out electricity... But if you take the "open" shielding of a magnet in a changing field than the influence of the shield on the overall field gets stronger with stronger field changes. And properly desinged and orientated they would actually double as a natural limiter for the rotation speed. Once the electrical energy in the shield becomes too strong it will be able to cancel out the field of the enclosed magnet...If we assume a magnet motor is really possible and works with the intended output to keep it spinning or even take energy out: Then what would be possible downfalls that stop this thing happening in everyones garage? We can explore the stars but so far no one bothered to invent anything to visualise magnetic field in a 3 dimensional way other than by simulation. No realtime and true observation like this. The few working technologies that exist rely on sensors, interpretaion and filling in gaps. But imagine something like a detector shield as cloud! And then even better with selctive spacing to get a realtime view of where exactly the field lines go. All we can do is forget our teaching and try it out anyway ;) If by some mistake a magnet motor would really work right away, then chances are high the inventor would wonder why that thing takes off like mad and how to stop it. Unless well prepared it would certainly end in the destrution of the motor. But the inventor would know what to look for in the next prototype. The logical conclusion would be to the couple the energy taken to the speed while physically limittin the free load speed. The other one would be the design the electrical generator around the and within the motor. To even get close to this point you would have to spend endless days and nights working on finding a solution. The closer you get the more disappointment when the final model still fails to keep spinning for more than a few hours. Most people will then accept defeat and move on... Still not saying it actually works but if you made it to this point in time where it could be easier to move on and do other things:Ever wondered what would happen if you "shield" a magnet with a coil? Of course nothing would happen as we know. But try this in some fixed assembly that allows you move another magnet through the field of the shielded one. Perferably witha force gauge or some option to read out the energy required to move it through the various stages of the field. See what happens if you short the coil or add a resistor to it ;) Now if this coild is able to produce electricity then the more we use the more the effects on the required force would change. What do you think would happen if you combine common coil relations of electric motors to a "coil shielded" magnet motor? Right, all these coils would interact with the magnetic fields of the coils they are connected to... And through that with the overall field surrounding the enclosed magnet..... I leave up to you to imagine how these interacting coils could provide "resistance" or "acceleration"/"surplus electricity"...Like they say: You can only find out if you try ;) To keep up the positive thinking: A permanent magnet just sticks to any magnetic surface and does so with the same force. But the real energy loss in terms of getting weaker can almost be neglected. Any electromagnet capable of the same holding force woul require ongoing energy supplies to keep it up. It is using energy the same way the permanent magnet does! The difference is the permanent magnet is not seen as anything that would provide us with energy.... And if it can't provide energy other than passing through coils then why the heck does it keep sticking to the fridge year after year? It does require energy to keep this weight up doesn't it, even if you add a thin teflon disk and oil to reduce friction? ;) No magic, no "free energy" bogus, just plain physics viewed from a slightly different angle than what we learn in school ;) Have a good laugh and a good beer, then read it again and just consider some of the things here that are not mentioned in any literature about magnetism that we commonly use. Now I got you thinking, didn't I ? ;)
Topic by Downunder35m 3 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
I want to seperate some water to get Hydrogen to play with, so I made a little electrolysis device with a 12v power supply. The only problem is that I have no idea what to use as the anode and cathode! Could I just use screws? Or pennies or something?
Topic by Login258 10 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
The term "free energy" is used both ways by us.What comes from wind, solar or water power is considered free energy.Also everything claiming to produce energy from nothing is considered free energy.Speaking of hoaxes and fakes now is a bit like comparing appels to tomatoes.For me it more like those stage magicians: It all looks real and impossible but they do it, so it must be real.If you really need to brag about your free energy device but are unable to sell a working model to interested people it at least means you are not a scammer.Several people play the game of exposing fakes.And if include this in your search then you get an idea about the amount of fakes or magically illusions out there.The internet is often abused to change opinions or make people do things they usually wouldn't do.Even if it is as simple as clicking on a suggested link for the next video.Patents can disappear or with enough money you can buy them off the inventor.One reason why more and more companies develop in secrecy and without ever applying for any patents - check the swiss army knife ;)There are no conspiracies involving "free energy" but imagine it would be the case...There currently is nothing that would actually allow you to produce enough electricity for your family all year round.At least not if you want to avoid several wind and water turbines and all possible areas covered with solar cells.If you would somehow make a device that produces more output than input (even if it uses up some form of stored energy like magnets) then how would you present it to the world??Could you take the abuse of literally everyone around you calling you a scammer?You know better, so you allow it to be tested - really??Unless you provide all details and open all up you would still be called a scammer.Someone offers you a lot of money to take the thing and have your assurance to never talk about it or invent something similar - suddenly not that impossible to think of...But what if there is no offer but threats instead?A nice show on the internet keeps you safe and allows the sceptics to brag how it is faked.What better way then to make sure there are tons of videos that show similar constructions that clearly can't work? ;)As with every good story there is always a bit of truth somewhere.Over 80 years ago people made magnetmotors that worked.Look it up and check their patents.Most of the fakes we see today are based on the same 4 or 5 machines from back then ;)Our modern life would not be possible without the inventions Tesla made.Still, basically all of his inventions that did not find public use are still considered bogus.How can one of the smartest man of that time have hundrets of used and recognised patents while those using them claim all the rest is useless and fake?Getting energy they can sell was fine.Allowing that everyone can generate all the electricity needed themself not so much.A free generator that everyone can build would never see a meter and you could not force people to put one on either.With unlimited money available those behind electricity, oil, gas and coal will always make sure that anything even just getting close to it will disappear.The internet changed this as now everyone can provide plans, videos and even all required parts if needed.Making someone or something disappear in Africa or Indonesia is easy, doing so with someone who has actual family, a job and lots of friends not so much.Money and contracts are the next best thing then...Remember the hype about Vortex energy a few years back?Videos claiming to have a vortex thingy producing more energy than what is used everywhere.Now in some regions vortex math is actually something people study.And with this the new videos about vortex based free energy devices went down to almost zero.Nothing new anymore that was not shown already.If you study a bit what Tesla did for students and teachers you will find a lot of similarities between his math and the new area of vortex math.But where those vortex guys use our modern math, limited constants and sequences, Tesla actually include all that was known at the time in his math.Like with scientology you have to work your way up the ranks in the vortex world.A lot of things you can only understand by confirming it in experiments, other stuff you will only get know when attending seminars.If you just get together what you find online and try to understand it then try again with a printout of Tesla's circle of math next to it.Knowledge is out there that we just fail to acknowledge or even try to explain if we see it.Just take ancient building skills.We know they did it because their monuments still exist today.But we would utterly fail to replicate this with our modern technology.Let alone with the tools claimed to be available at the time.....Levitation through sound was deemed to be impossible.Then one day we invented powerful ultrasonic speakers and it worked anyway.So how many real "free energy devices" are out there?How knows if it is one, a few or thausands.Same for all the websites and videos out there.After a while you learn how to spot the fakes quickly.Then you still find some videos where you fail to find the hidden battery or motor or power connection.In the end you are left with the same 4 or 5 possible types claimed to have worked almost hundred years ago.Eliminate the bogus and incomplete then there is still some left....It does not mean any of it actually works...That is if you exclude those few companies selling things like magnetmotor generators for a few years now.Going faster than a certain speed would kill you - then we moved on from steam engines.It will never be possible to use the power of the atom to produce electricity - we got nuclear reactors anyway.Now we even try to make fusion generators feasable...So ask yourself if all "free energy" bogus really is just bogus...We know life must exist on other planets outside out solar system but we still could not accept if this life would be more advanced or civilised than we are...Yet we feel the need "to go out there"...Where does Instructables come into play?Take the dare and provide a well documented Instructable that allows anyone to replicate your "free energy device".No solar cells or electric generators please, only stuff that should exist or work.If you don't speak or write english then use some translator and people here will help to properly translate it.The big community here will jump on it, find the hoax behind it and tear it apart.However if they can't then someone will build it to show that it can't actually work.Then imagine the surprise if "I made it!" starts to be clicked more and more...No one could stop the progess or hide it then ;)Of course we all know that nobody will ever post such an Instructable, don't we?Keep in mind that the scam behind "free energy" might just be result of too many scammers...
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hello again dear friends. Today I'm looking for help among the carpenters and metalworkers of the community. I need to build a new computer desk because I need a lower, wider, and longer work surface. I opted for a minimalist and modern design that I've included in the pictures below. I'm going to have local craftspeople make the wood board and steel frame, but I don't trust their expertise very much - so I would like to ask for your help regarding a few issues. Regarding woodwork: - I've understood that I should not put a beam across the boards for strength - I read online that this will induce splitting due to shrinkage. Is this correct? - Is 4cm (1" 9/16) board thickness enough to support weight (heavy monitors) considering the large span between the table legs? (see picture of underside) - The 4 boards used would be teak wood or Ecuador laurel (Cordia alliodora), full length x 7 inches wide Regarding metal work: - I'd like for the table to look as minimalist as possible, but I still feel I need a way to strengthen or stiffen the frame so it doesn't wobble side to side. Is there a way to do this without visually changing the table? I'm planning on using 1" x 2" square galvanized tube. - I've implemented a crossbeam to help prevent sagging of the board. Is one enough? It's offset so as not to reduce leg space. Any help you can provide will be much appreciated! André
Topic by colorex 3 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Aspergers Syndrome has only been recognized since about 1995, we call ourselves Aspies. Try this test http://www.rdos.net/eng/ make sure you follow the instructions the results will only survive for an hour, so download them ASAP, the picture (a pie graph) or Aspie-Rating-Picture (ARP) and final score, you can chose to show to people, but the questions and answers are very personal, keep those to yourself. I plan to put my ARP here, that is something us Aspies enjoy displaying, something to be proud of, I hope that other Aspie group members put theirs on. Your Aspie score: 181 of 200 Your neurotypical (non-autistic) score: 28 of 200 You are very likely an Aspie It is possible to cheat to get a high score on the ARP, so I am thinking that ARPs can be voted off by members if members find the ARP unbelievable when comparing the member's ARP with said member's profile and activities on Instructables. Aspies don't practice discrimination, so even if you don't have Aspergers Syndrome, consider yourself as a honorary Aspie and sign up anyway. Visit https://www.instructables.com/community/Analysing-your-test-results-for-Aspergers-Syndrome/ A free for all, discussion on self analysis of your test picture (a pie graph) or Aspie-Rating-Picture (ARP) and final score Another link for Aspies is http://www.psychforums.com. I will dig out more shortly, I have list somewhere, but that one was not it I recall.
Topic by Lateral Thinker 9 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hi. i wanna build a frame like this: http://www.greatgreengoods.com/2008/06/10/recycled-record-frames-and-coasters/but i dont know how i can cut the record. i tried so far a carpet cutter, glass cutter, i tried to stamp out with a hot metal but nothing worked. any other suggestions???
Topic by Stadtwerk 10 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I’m looking for some Western Hemlock project boards, but can’t find any stores in the area that have it or will order for me. Also striking out with online stores. Any suggestions on where to find this? It’s the state tree of WA, and I want to use it for a project related to my home state. Now we live in TX and I can’t find it anywhere.
Topic by jpmarth 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hi everyone, I am just a marine engineering student and I always used to visit this page before and I really learned a lot from this page I really love it. It sound wierd but I got 999 "what if's" In my mind and one of them is what if I could make my own device that could paint my sneakers In any design I want? So now I'm planning to make a shoe printer out of my old desktop printer, Is it possible? The motors and some parts might be helpful and those are needed some time and a little bit of coding. And I want it to work like a cnc plotter. But the hardest part for me is the "Inking part" A.) "How does a printer manipulate colors?" . Let's say I want to print an apple with a white background on my shoe , how does a printer selects/mix a color for each coordination they paint? ( base, outline, background and etc. ) I mean, how do they do that? what device does this part for the printer? So that I could add it on the list. B.) "What process should I use? " . Is it heating? Should I use lazer? Or should I use a tiny nozzle? Or a multiple of nozzles? Or is it piezo electric pulses? What piece should it be? that would perfectly Suitable for printing on a sneakers? (Canvas) Additional question : (if ever) what type of ink should I use ? Any answer or suggestions would be so much appreciated
Topic by glennmarksovan 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
I am trying to create an instructable but get an error when entering the title. It gives me this message "Oops! We couldn't understand your request. Please contact us to tell us as much detail as possible about what you were trying to do when this happened". I have tried using both firefox and chrome browsers and get the same message. Is the site having problems at the moment? Appreciate any help, thanks.
Topic by parsons_woodcrafts 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
When I tried yesterday to post a comment, it displayed a message: " Oops, something went wrong! " Today, I tried to reply to someone's question, but it wouldn't work: " Oops, something went wrong! " He was able to post the question, but that was eight days ago. That means this glitch happened between now and then.
Topic by Techno_Bot01 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
You know those liquid motion toys you often find at places like Spencer gifts in which a denser liquid (usual bright colored) drips down onto a spiral and you can watch this discrete bubble ride on down? I'm wondering what's inside them and if its feasible to make your own. I've heard lots of things, that the clear liquid is usual a light oil and the colored part is water. I've heard the reverse, I've also heard that there is no water in these things that both are different oils.any help would be appreciated. if your still wondering what im talking about heres a place that sells them : http://www.officeplayground.com/spiraltimer.html
Topic by SpinningCone 11 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hi everyone hates the rising prices of our luxurys so i have done some research and found out that growing your own tobacco IS NOT ILEGAL my question is can you buy tobacco seeds over the counter anywhere in the south west ??? someone please help me lol Cheers Darren
Topic by dazzer730 8 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I made a quite intersting discovery today.The use of mixed orientations for a stronger or more directed field on one side and a much weaker on the other side of a magnet is nothing new. But if you check modern wind turbines or even just any old hard drive you find "chokes". I talked about shielding before but combining shielding a choking provides again another level of manipulation.If you ask anyone who claims to know magentic field or sience in general then you right away hear: There is no such thing as magnet with just a single pole!Like a battery one pole can't exist without the other!Keep going and your conversation parten either get angry or declares you a nut case.Also said before: The laws of nature and physics are not set in stone or complete for that matter!We only use what we know, or to be precise what we told to take as facts.A magnet with just one pole is impossible to manufacture, if you only think like making the magnet like any other magnet.Even cutting it in half will only give you two normal magnets again.Why is that so?How are magnets made is what you need to know.No matter the material they start as a blank and during the final processing an intense electromagnetic field is used to "prime" them.Like you would do on a screwdriver the material then keeps the "charge" and becomes magnetic.And this process requires a certain orientation.Imagine a big hydraulic press to make the magnet with some super strong electromagnets right beside the forms.Explains why you won't find a block magnet with the poles on opposing corners - the form is not designed to be rotated ;)Ferrite magnets can often be machined.If you mark the field direction of a block then you could just cut it into the shape you need.Like a half moon, triangle, pyramid...The orientation does not change, so you need to create the cuts so your required orientation matches the orignal block.Creates a lot of waste, is messy and often the magnets shatter.Still not possible to create a mono pole ;)But it allows for a great deal of field manipulations.For example a thick north and a thin south pole would show very different field strengths at the poles.How to create a mono or single pole magnet then??If you think outside modern science restraints it is suprisingly easy!You see, unlike a battery the magnet does not care if the "current" flows back to its own pole or a pole from a different magnet.In a hard drive the choked magnets have a field strength between them that is not just twice as much as th one from a single magnet.The field between the magnets is very stable too!No matter where you measure it is the same.Place two magnets in the same configuration with the choke and all you get between them is a mess.To understand the reality with magnets I need to explain a bit more though:If it does not matter from where to where the field lines go the it becomes obvious that you can guide them.Horse shoe magnets of the old kind where just two steel bars with a block magnet between them!Take a compass and check from what distance your magnet will start to affect the orientation.Now take two iron bars, rods, block or similar of about twice that length.Place the compass between one end and the magnet between the other end.Even with a little gap your compass will still move!You just extended the length of the field lines and directed them somewhere else as it also works with odd shapes.We know know and confirmed how choking works and as shielding is basically the same thing but for a different purpose you might get an idea where I am heading already.A "potted" magnet, like what you find in a speaker or as a hook magnet utilises two destinct features.a) A ring magnet is used.b) The field lines are directed to a specific area.One has them directed into a gap for a coil like in a wind turbine, the other to the surface to massively increase the field strenght in that area.If you take either apart you will notice the magnet just by itself is considerably weaker.Removing a pole from a magnet...If you paid attention so far and have a few magnets around then you already developed a feeling for the difference.Lets crank it up a notch, shall we?Make this experiment:Take two identical magnets and a soft steel bar or similar of lesser thickness than the magnets.Usually around 2-3mm for smaller N52 Neodymiums will do.If you dare make the steel the same size as the magnets.Now place one magnet on the steel and use the other to observe the difference in feel.There won't be much and both poles should still fell like before only that the field is now slightly longer.Trying to get two magnets to touch at the same pole is really hard, but see what happens if you add the other magnet on the other side of the steel...Despite having the same pole on the steel they won't repel and stick to the steel.Checking the field now with a magnet provides a very different feel!It is like having a magnet with a split pole where the opposing pole now is in the center.Impossible I know but you have it in your hand, so deal with the explanation yourself ;)And if that is so damn easy then how hard can it be to actually remove one pole fully?Design of the impossible magnet...If you want the south pole only then it would be the entire surface of your impossible magnet.That means you either need to make sacrifices or get creative for the next steps.Easiest from my experiments is to sacrifice like all scientists do and allow for some minor gaps.I won't give any dimension or step by step instructions.Think 3D and use your imagination.Our impossible magnet starts from the center.All magnets used should provide the same field strenght!To be precise it means no matter their grade, the the "force" of the magnets should be as close to identical as possible even if the size is different.You can use stacks or different types/grades...The center is a square block of soft steel, or iron as pure as possible - it needs to have a low "resistance" if you compare them to batteries and to avoid confusing terms.On this "dice" you place one magnet on each face, preferably of identical size to the block.So, for a 10x10mm block you use 10x10mm magnets -simple isn't it.All magnets are place with the same pole onto the block!In out example to get the south pole outside you would use the north pole.Now use six bigger magnet blocks for another layer.This time they are placed in attraction mode, meaning you let them stick together naturally.The resulting magnet will be far from perfect but you will have a hard time finding a strong attraction to the soth pole of a magnet if you move it around your cube.If you check the geometry you will now see how 45° degree angles and matching sizes for the blocks would be beneficial.Using ferrite magnets you can machine them to the desired size and use a thin aluminium or breass frame to hold the outside properly together, like edging on a fancy tranport box or chest.Check the magnet now and try to find anything else but a destict south pole on all faces and corners.No more nother pole....Does that mean it really is a mono or single pole magnet?Since modern science does not even consider a construction like this to be worth testing you already know the anser.For those working on a different level with magnets it will be a true single pole magnet.For the rest it will just be another fake.As by science a permanent magnet is defined to have two poles and to have field lines going from one pole to the other.All modern machines using them operate on this principle and "fact".But if I would give you a block of steel that has a core of lets say brass and a suffien wall thickness...Then this block would appear to be a steel block and nothing else.Modern science fails to see a magnet any other than a battery!If the "current" does not need to go back to same pole and there is no need for the field lines to go back to the outside pole then it is a single ple magnet like the faked box is a steel box.The physical outcome or in our case magnetic field is what defines it!The contra...All good has some bad, magnets are no different.Purely scientific viewed it would be impossible to create a gap free magnet like I described.And because never all field lines will take the shortcut there will still be a small amount of "north pole" to be found on the outside.But if that is in the range of about 1% of the field strength of the magnet then I say it can be neglected for almost all real life uses of such a magnet.Like the Halbach Array it is just a neat way of manipulating and if you like bending the known interpretation of our scientific understanding.Possible uses for these magnets exclude convention designs and for this reason alone anything you create with them will be the target of scepticism to say it nice.Ok then, what real life uses could there be for something we never needed?The question is the answer, as the impossible magnet is the solution.Ever watched these shopping shows in the night program?"It solves problems you didn't even know you might get..."Means that if you ever get the ide that your project requires a single pole magnet then you know how to make one ;)All I can up with would go against common scientific understanding and teachings, so I will spare you with my use cases ;)And what is missing here to actually make it work?Quite a lot as you might have noticed in your experiments if you use really good test equippment.Not so much however if you consider what I said about shielding and choking ;)Provide a path of far less resistance and shield the rest that still bothers you.I am not providing a ready to go model here that you can buy, someone else will do that if they see a financial gain it.My gain is provide a new understanding of things we forgot by giving your brain things to work with and develop.You might still say in the end that my way (or your results) are not good enough in some way.But then please also consider how many other people or documents you might be able to find that would have provided you with this information.Free energy is only a myth for as along as we allow ourselfs to only trust what modern science allows us to have.Allow the old knowledge in and every now and then simple ignore what you know and things become possible sooner than you might think.Wind and water were used as a source of free energy since the dawn of mankind.Our first motorised boats used the same "wheels" we already trusted to be driven by water to power a mill, saw or similar.And after we learned about motors we also found a way to make wind - by reversing our trusted wind mills into a fan.Instead of using the free energy to generate power for us we evolved to use create wind and propulsion by providing power to drive the same thin in reverse.Using the sun for power other by using a mirror was seen as witchcraft throughout history, then we got solar cells...Same for heat in the form of peltier elements and other things...Why then should magnets be any different??Just "Because it is so!" did not work for wind, water and solar, not even for heat....All it takes is a little notch in the right direction to change the way we think about magnets.We have no problem using electromagnets to make a motor spin.We have no problem using magnetic field of any kind to drive motors or generate electricity.We even fail to have a problem by manipulation electromagnetic fields for that purpose.But we struggle like an ant in sand hole to reach the surface again to see what is outside our trap before something grabs us from behind when it comes to permanent magnets.Even worse if you dare to claim your magnetic machine delivers a higher output energy than what you use to make it run.And wasn't it exactly the same ignorance and manifested "knowledge" that got revised so many times throughout history already?Again: Why should magnets or their understanding of interaction be any different?If you follow the above with just matching magnets and the core cube then the result will be at least very surprising to you.Allow this surprise to be an inspiration to improve instead of seeing as a proof of failure ;)And if you made it then please post about it here.Let me know what disappointed you with the outcome.Let me know what really got you wondering.Let me know if you found a suffiently strong north pole to rival the impossible southpole! ;)Start sharing, make other people wonder and make them share it to, let us go viral!The first to post a conclusive Youtube video with results is certain to get a lot, lot, lot attention....
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago
Hello all,I find this Instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix-Dead-L...I need to use this method for a Pegatron battery G6BTA019H P/N:0B23-00E00RVhttps://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/EkIAAOSw...but I can't find a diagram of the pinouts for it, would it just be a case of connecting the very end wires, labelled + and -?How risky is that if it's wrong?Is there a way to test them with a multimeter?Thanks
Topic by PlexusIndustrious 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Some time ago I made a short Instructable on some basics of integrating other things with a 3D print job.I found some more uses that are not always conventional so to say.For example using an acrylic plate as the "bottom" layer and printing the rest around and on top of it, like a box with a clear bottom.Another nice thing I found is that quite often overhanging parts like hook type hinges can be avoided.Especially if said part needs to be really sturdy one could print it turned by 90° and with some support like an undercut add it to the print.Works really nice too is you want to have movable parts within your printed creation.I might have to do some print jobs next month and was wondering if I should add some more for another Instructable with proper instructions and examples?Anyone done some embedded printing based on my last Ible about it?
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago
-update-cant believe the attention this has got. either way i got my braces off...in august of 2008. Wednesday before school started. Finally.straight teeth finally, and i can eat! so great.either way it still took like 5 or 6 years, too long.Im just wearing an invisible retainer(behind my teeth, its glued in, its just a wire). Cant even feel it.Just think- if you have braces- how good it will feel when you get them off...OK, I have braces, meant to correct the spaces that were in between my teeth, and also, to move my lower jaw forward. I've had them for...5 YEARS! Needless to say, they JUST finished closing most of the gaps(again, after 5 years), and are working on moving my jaw forward. So, like almost every person I see with braces (well, some), I got rubber bands. I actually had a choice between them and the Herbst appliance. I picked the herbst-y thing, but they didn't have a part...so, blah blah blah, long story short, I got rubberbands until the part came in. So the part came in today, and I went for them to put it on, and after about an extremely boring hour, they were on. Anyway, It wasn't until then that I realized what (Insert bad word(s) here) things these were. I can't eat ( more specifically- chew), talk (clearly), or EVEN FULLY CLOSE MY MOUTH!.i hate them...................SO... ...on a lighter note, does anyone here have/had that herbst thing before?Update- I got them off, and I'm wearing rubber-bands now.
Topic by John Smith 11 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hello,I am a hobbyist , and I am looking for a simple circuit simulator that can tell me if my circuit is working well.Just simple to use not like those professional that are hard to use and oriented to professionals.Does anybody know about?thanks to everyone.
Topic by Leonida61 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
When I click on an article in the email and come to the site, it looks as if I'm logged in but nothing works because I must log out and log back in to make the site recognize me. The email click should bring me to a login page and then take me to the clicked-on article.Also, adding something to a collection is awkward, with the roll-down top bar coming into view only when you scroll down and then stepping through several clicks. Compare how natural it is at thingverse. This is how it should work.
Topic by williamduncan 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated.
Topic by GeorgeGrace 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
A while ago I had a very bad day of fishing in terms of catching something for my frying pan or freezer.Same story for the old bloke sitting a few meters away from me.So we decided to pass some time with useless chats about our previous record fish we caught.While the old bloke changed bait I noticed that he did not have a hook at the end of the line.....What is that contraption and how do you catch fish with it?Old bloke laughed and said he goes hunting a lot too and always keeps the antlers from deer and such.Instead of a hook he used a round and pointy bar with a little notch slightly off the middle.Couldn't figure out how this possibly could hook a fish, so got a bigger laugh for it this time :("Make a loose fist, put it in and then pull on the line." he said and I was dumb enough to assume it would not work :(Figure it out by getting two bleeding pricks...Fish swallows the "stick" inside the bait and one there is some pull one pointy end will always get stuck.The other moves until there is no room to move anymore and the fish is spiked up for good.Only downside is that one you get a fish too big it might not grab - bad luck then LOLThis approach instead of steel hooks reminded me of the bamboo fishing poles my grandfather used to make.Be it for eel, trout, carp or even from the boat for pollock and sardine - he loved his bamboo.Even made me my fisrt fly fishing rod from a piece of bamboo :)The old guy however had more than hand made rods or horn needles as hooks.When his hands were still as good as his eyes he even made flies from these horn sticks!He explained the process to me but I never had the patience for normal flies and doing this with horn sticks and estimating how big the biggest fish might be while making sure it is neither too heavy nor fails to float...What I really liked about this otherwise wasted fishing day was the stories I got from the old man."You don't need fancy or oversensitive gear to fish, a safety pin and some packing coad do just fine if you are hungry!"Best story was how he caught a 2m gummy shark with a hand line meant to catch some sardines for bait.I could really his 3 hour struggle to get the thing on board LOLWhat are your most successfull old school or just plain weird catches with something a real sports fisherman would not even touch to cast?
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
For several of my projects I required some sort of bearing that would not only allow for a minimised free play but also very low friction.Before you get too exited: This is not a new type of bearing or anthing for heavy duty loads, not even for ongoing use without servicing.I found that even slightly heavier things rotated on makishift bearing far easier if the axle was verticall instead of horizontally.This gave me the idea to try a simple needle-bearing approach.This is how it goes:1. Grind and polish your axle to get a nice needle point - it must be perfectly centered!I prefer to do this with the axle in a fast spinning drill on a fine grinder.The polishing in a simlilar way, but please do not try it with a cloth in your hand on a spinning axle!2. The other part of the bearing is a screw or pin with a punch mark.I grinded and polished a punch for this so it has an angle of 60° and polished it to a mirror finnish.If alignment is of importance then of course the pin/screw must work for this purpose!If in doubt make it spind an use a pencil to get the true center.A drop of sewing machine oil and it spins nice and with very little friction.The key is to adjust the gap(s) between axle and punch mark to next to nothing.You don't want any pressure along the axle as you would "drill" a hole into your mounts.And you don't want it too loose to avoid wobble.I hope it might give you an idea for your next project.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago
Hey guys, I'm trying to build a portable EMP generator, which will be powerful enough to knock out (temporarily) my neighbors stereo (if he plays it on loud at midnight again). My setup is as follows: 8 330v 160uF Capacitors wired up in series. 8 330v charging circuits for the capacitors with their outputs in series wired to the capacitors through a switch. The 8 capacitors are wired up to a coil through a switch. The coil is made from 6 gauge wire (or a 1/16" copper strip) that is coiled 5 times. I would really appreciate any feedback because this is a fairly large undertaking for me, and i'm kind of nervous at working with over 2000v of electricity. Does anyone know if you can discharge a cpapcitor by throwing it into a swimming pool???
Topic by recon506 11 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I recently ordered a REX C100 for my electric melting furnace project. As it came already with a SSR and temp sensor I only added a sensor capable of reading more than 400° of the supplied one. These controller are dirt cheap and have lots of support in the modding community - although you now can get them new in all variations so no more modding required. Internally they run on 12V DC, so even mobile use is possible (but this time after modding). My problem with this controller started with the not included manual. As it is no China clone but an original from RKC Japan, I downloaded their manual and tried to adjust the max temp settings as well as changing to the thermocouple. To my surprise the menus for that simply did not exist on my model. Reading a few more manuals showed that to get to the "initial or factory setup" you need to change the lock code. Here things get confusing: Once in the lock menu setting most manuals state to enter "0000" to activate the hidden menus. (Mine was alreay on 0000) Others state to set the code to "0100". In any case you have to hold the setup key for a few seconds to store the changes and after that hold the settings and shift key for about 5 seconds to enter these factory menus. After being close to send the unit back I tried different code combinations and finally found that "1000" actually activates the hidden menu on my model! But again there was no joy as several vital settings still did not show up. To finally get all settings another step is required: The first item in the hidden menu is "CODE" and it shows as "0000". After changing this to "0001" the setup key can be used to get to the settings to change the max and min temps. Once all this done the controller actually shows the selected sensor and if Celsius or Fahrenheit is used at the start and from now on simply by clicking through the hidden menu with the setup key you can get to the min and max temp settings again. I hope this info will help someone running into the same brick walls as I did...
Topic by Downunder35m 3 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
Hello everyone;I want to make power backup for my internet router which runs on, 9v and 0.6Ah or 600mAh, I bought the 9v battery but it could not provide enough current to the router to work properly, so now i have two 6v batteries which provides 4Ah current each and i want to use them for power backup, now i,m stuck at the point that how i'm going to make this voltage lower i.e 12V to 9V, however, I figured out how I can limit the current to 0.6Ah or 600mAh, i,m using 12v charger to charge these batteries while connected in series and will use it with router as well, can any one help me out the how can i decrease the voltage to 9V and use it power my router.i'll be grateful
Topic by TamurT 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
I have a walkabout 330 mobility scooter i have cut some wires and now i'm lost and they didn't make a manual for them and can i eliminate a lot of things like lights horn etc i only use it for golf but i can't walk the course and i was wondering could and how to wire it in the simplest way to get it going ??? i'm really lost and confused any way to hot wire it maybe ???? Hope some one understands me Cheers macca
Topic by maccaorgordon 6 years ago | last reply 2 months ago
I noticed we neither have a section, nor a thread for fun stuff, so I just made one ;)Let me give you something fun to think about, then you can add more funny stuff so we all have a good laugh :)The invisible man - a really old story!There is a man, thausands and thausands of year old, some even say he is as old as time itself.One day the old guy got really bored and decided to do something new.A few days of hard work and within a week he created the universe and all we know.To make it less boring he also decided to add some humans to it.After all, why would you need a TV if you can have it all life.Not long and those humans figured it all out and were really greatful for all the hard work done.So in return they accepted some ground rules, ten of them to be precise.Big buildings were built and everyone also needed some tokens to show how much he loves his god.Many years later some guy came along and got interested in this almighty guy everyone now called "god"."What does he do?""Oh! He loves you and watches you every minute of your life!""Nice! And what does he expect from me?""Just follow the rules and read his book if you feel troubled.""There is a book too?""Certainly is and you can have one for just 10 bucks.""And who is he and what would happen if I break the rules?""God is all powerful, wise, loving and forgiving but if you break the rules you will end in a pit of fire and pain for eternity!""Oh, that much trouble if I break the rules... Can I fix it if I did?""God always loves you and will forgive you!""Hmm, just to make sure that I got it right, let me sum it all up:There is an invisible guy living in the sky, he watches every single one down here every minute of the day.He is all powerful, almighty, all loving and the most forgiving guy you can find.But he needs money.Why do you collect moneyfor him if he never eats, sleeps, drinks or has any fun and also states there is no need for riches?"
Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
I made this collection some time ago. At first, when I tried to edit it, it would open up, but it would get stuck in the loading screen, with the dots moving across. I tried again, the same thing happened. The next day, the same thing happened. Then, a short time later, when I open the editor, the site shows the "404: We're sorry, things break sometimes" error. So now I can't even delete the collection.
Topic by Techno_Bot01 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
So I got one of these portable speakers for work. Works great though it could be a touch louder. It lets you charge your phone while either using Bluetooth or direct aux input. Now there's only one problem/annoyance. Every time you power on/off the device and sync to Bluetooth, this voice confirmation plays this audio file that's much longer than it needs to be. "Powering on! Welcome to Altec Lansing" when Bluetooth kicks on "You are now paired! Enjoy!" when you turn off "Powering off!" Anyway, I was already planning on modding it by adding an amplifier to the Line In, since its much louder when a PC is connected vs a phone. I may also add more 18650's but with 15 hour battery life its not necessary. Unless I plan on turning it into a charging hub for all my co-workers phones or something. Anyway, I am here to try to get some help on disabling the voice, its only really a problem because on max volume the voice is WAYY too loud and usually startles people. Here's a review video that shows all the features. Amazingly I can't find a Youtube video of the Voice Confirmation. Here's the useless manual. Manual I Already emailed Altec Lansing to see if there's anyway to disable the voice. I have several images for you to see. I can grab more if necessary. Alternatively, would I be able to just replace the entire board with another one? Such as, an amplifier, USB charger, 18650 charger, and some hacked up Bluetooth headset (with no voice-confirmation) I ask because I rather like the case for its shock resistance capability, and the control buttons are removable so adding new controls and switches would be easy.
Topic by Crusty-Bobcat 3 years ago | last reply 2 months ago