The "Add Images" button in the project replies area does not work. PC, Windows 10, Firefox
Topic by tgdula | last reply
The banner or top frame is enormous. Why? When I'm reading the instructable I admit I have the zoom enlarged. the problem is the banner enlarges. Now it occupies about 25-35% of the vertical space. Why am I seeing this thing when I hit page down? There's absolutely nothing of value on that banner. Most of us (unless we have zero short term memory) don't need to see this space wasting thing. Why not have an "opt out" option for it? Give your readers a choice. Readers like choices. When I use Page Down using Firefox on Win7 it doesn't work accurately. It goes too far so I'm missing a line or 2. This has been like this for years. Its because of that banner. This happens often on many websites. ----------------------- PDF downloads are nice but an HTML download would be far more useful as then the line could have an adjustable wrap width. With the PDF the image size is locked. This is very restricting and so last century. Consider an HTML download (minus that space wasting banner...duh) and that would preserve formatting and allow good user control. ----------------------- You have one of the most informative and useful websites on the planet. You should be proud of it. I hope you are because its well deserved. So now lets get it functioning more logically!
Topic by SpencerW
Hello! I see these neat projects all the time in the newsletter, but when I click on them I'm often bewildered. When I see an instructible want to know one thing: What does it do? Maybe it's my own shortcoming, but I wish that people would say in the first sentence what the point is of their project. EXAMPLE 1: https://www.instructables.com/id/PC-SOUND-CARD-SCOPE-INTERFACE-FACILITATES-DC-RESTO/ This project is super cool and the steps seem clear. However, what does it do? It says in the title "facilitates DC restoration". I don't know what that means. It also says in the link "PC Sound Card Oscilloscope". Does an oscilloscope somehow facilitate DC restoration? I probably don't know enough about electronics for this to be useful to me, but it would be really nice to understand what he's making and what you'd use it to do. EXAMPLE 2: https://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-2-wheel-robot-with-IR-sensor-weight-14gr-and-/ I'm sorry to pick on the guy who's apologizing for his English, but I wish that it said what the robot does. EXAMPLE 3: https://www.instructables.com/id/the-algae-experiment-How-to-build-your-own-algae-/ This has a great description, and this is what I'm talking about. I can't imagine what you would do with it, but it clearly makes algae. Cool, if I want to make algae, I'll know where to look! I think it would be easy to encourage people to include the purpose of their project in the summary, and perhaps it could be incorporated easily into the submission process (although a simple suggestion might do the trick). Of course there are times when it wouldn't be appropriate, like when posting art related instructables. Also the general purpose stuff, like how to make balls of ice (although it would be interesting to know why someone would make an ice sphere maker)! Also guides, like "Plant Terrarium Basics" don't need the purpose spelled out. But, I think that lots of other things would really benefit from it! Thanks, Gene
Topic by geneorama | last reply
This is the project: https://www.instructables.com/id/SpectrumLED-V20-the-ULTIMATE-Variable-Spectrum-Lam/ I want to upgrade the telescoping arm mostly because I can, not because I must ;) I don't open/telescope it very often because right now it's too long at its shortest position. I adjust the swiveling "head" all the time, and when the rod is tightened so it's easy for me to telescope it, the head swivels which is annoying. I would like to separate them. I already have an idea which I think will be good for the swiveling head: http://woodgears.ca/tripod/head.html I've come up with the idea of making a scissor lamp, but I don't think that will be very simple to make, so I was wondering if anyone has a simpler and better idea for making something that telescopes (and locks). Add pictures ⋅⋅⋅ᴬᶰᵈ ᴱᴱ'ˢ, ᴵ'ᵐ ᵃʷᵃʳᵉ ᵒᶠ ᵗʰᵉ ᶠᵃᶜᵗ ᵗʰᵃᵗ ᴵ'ᵐ ᵖᵒʷᵉʳᶦᶰᵍ ᵗʰᵉˢᵉ ᴸᴱᴰ'ˢ ᶦᶰᶜᵒʳʳᵉᶜᵗᶫʸ ⁽ᴺᴼᵀ!⁾, ᵇᶦᵗ ᶦᶠ ʸᵒᵘ ˢᵗᶦᶫᶫ ʷᵃᶰᵗ ᵗᵒ ᶜᵒᵐᵐᵉᶰᵗ ᵗʰᵃᵗ, ᵖᶫᵉᵃˢᵉ ᵈᵒ ᶦᵗ ᶦᶰ ᵗʰᵉ ᶜᵒᵐᵐᵉᶰᵗˢ ˢᵉᶜᵗᶦᵒᶰ ᵒᶰ ᵗʰᵉ ᴵᶰˢᵗʳᵘᶜᵗᵃᵇᶫᵉ ᵗᵒ ᵏᵉᵉᵖ ᵗʰᵉ ᶜᵒᵐᵐᵉᶰᵗˢ ˢᵉᶜᵗᶦᵒᶰ ʰᵉʳᵉ ᵒʳᵍᵃᶰᶦᶻᵉᵈ, ᵗʰᵃᶰᵏˢ⋅ Any ideas would be really appreciated :)
Topic by Yonatan24 | last reply
"Severus Snape is a fictional character in J. K. Rowling's Harry Potter series. He is characterised as a person of great complexity, whose coldly sarcastic and controlled exterior conceals deep emotions and anguish." Wikipedia Actor Alan Rickman, Snape in Harry Potter films, dies at 69. https://www.google.com/search?q=professor+snape+actor&biw;=1550&bih;=746&source;=lnms&tbm;=isch&sa;=X&ved;=0ahUKEwj31pf7larKAhUINT4KHTdRBq0Q_AUIBigB&dpr;=0.8
Topic by iceng | last reply
What's better than LEDs? Spinning LEDs! Laserpointer forums member FireMyLaser has decided that spinning LEDs is so much fun that he built a contraption that spins on 3 axes and creates some pretty insane effects. He also posted lots of build photos, but for now he's exceeded his photobucket bandwidth. Hopefully they'll be up again soon. NOTE: this is a forum post. Forums are where users can post links to other cool things happening in the DIY space and as such instructions aren't always available. Thanks! LED Orb 2.0 via MAKE
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
K'NEX Gun Builders of Instructables, The reason that I am posting this Forum Topic is that I would like to hear how YOU design YOUR K'NEX guns. What are your secret techniques and tricks of the trade? Please post your comments and answers below. Thanks!, -The Knex Inventor
Topic by The Knex Inventor | last reply
Remix contest no longer accepting entries??? Today is Jan201uary 31, 2017 Official rules state.... February 6 2017 Deadline. The Contest begins at 12:00 a.m. Pacific Standard Time (PT)/8:00 a.m. GMT on December 19, 2016 (the "Start Date"). Entries for the Contest must be received by Sponsor by no later than 11:59 p.m. PT on February 06, 2017 /7:59am GMT on February 06, 2017 (the "Deadline"). (convert to local time)
Topic by DiyWaterDog | last reply
Hi everyone! Do you think Instructables.com needs a URL shortener that works like bit.ly? Just like YouTube has their shortener, http://youtu.be, Instructables could have Instructabl.es That way, instead of a URL like this... https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Lawn-Mower-1/ You could have this... http://instructabl.es/9tGHM9 Very handy for sharing your stuff on Twitter, Buzz, Bebo and Orkut. Cast your vote here.
Topic by Marsh | last reply
When I try and save my instructable to instructables.com I receive the message "Please use an allowed HTTP method". I have powered off my phone and even tried to create another instructable. I need to get it downloaded tonight.
Topic by Tcdevine | last reply
Topic by MrRedBeard
I am unable to publish my instructable which is saved in draft, even after clearing browser data and cache. I tried with google chrome as well as firefox and I am facing problems in both. My instructable is about Home-made Pasta and today is the last date for entering Pasta contest. Already sent a mail to service at instructables and got a suggestion to post a forum topic so that somebody can help. Please see the screenshot attached
Topic by antoniraj | last reply
Hello Instructables, I am enrolled into 9 classes and when I go to my profile and click to see a list of all the class I am enrolled into, it says "no classes". I am using firefox v50.0.2 on mac osx sierra and logged in using google Please refer to the attached screenshot. Thanks, Kiran
Topic by KiranV2 | last reply
Hi, I have a remote that I'm trying to drive with an arduino. The remote usually uses a 3V CR2032 battery. I tried just using the 5V digital pin set on high, but that didn't work. Then I tried using a L293D motor driver -- with the lithium battery supplying the outside power. That didn't work either. Any ideas?
Topic by gluckc | last reply
I have tried so many different ways to heat my pool water and have had little luck. One way I did it was to take about three hundred feet of black 1/2" drip line and run it around the pool rim. I supplied cold water from a smalloutlet attached to the return line,using the power of the filtration pump to move the water from the pool through thecoil and I adjusted the flow to about half of the normal, then at the end I had the heated water re-enter the pool. Iwould say the water got to about 100 degrees, by the time it went through the drip line. The problem is that it wasn'tefficient enough to have any real effect on the pool water temperature which stays at about 60-65 even on the hottest days. I live in the Sacramento area of California, and we get pretty hot summers, usually about 90-105. Any suggestions on how I could make this idea more efficient? My pool water temp is always too cold to swim in, and I have a capacity of 12,000 gallons.
Topic by dandaman1950 | last reply
One thing I like a lot when reading Instructables is how creators give a personal spin to their project descriptions and the instructions on how te make something. Sometimes there is even a small laugh on my face when somewhere hidden in step 9, picture 2 there is a funny joke. I can't help it that I include some silly dad jokes myself in my projects. The idea of this topic is to create a collection that make you smile. A quest for the hidden (dad)jokes in projects. Which ones are your favorites? Since most dad jokes only work in context I suggest you only post the link to the Instructable and how hard you laughed about it. Not the joke itself out of context. Then we can all go hunting for that silly joke.
Topic by thijsv | last reply
When I click "publish", it says: "Oops! We couldn't understand your request. Please contact us to tell us as much detail as possible about what you were trying to do when this happened." .. All I did was click "Publish" on my current draft version. Suggestions?
Topic by biobonnie | last reply
At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.
Topic by Downunder35m
The Instructables app for android does not show any info from my profile. Favorites, following, my picture, my personal info... Nothing... All empty. It's like session is not started, but if I tap in the login button I go to my empty profile. I can't see the logout below. (See screenshot) Using Android 7 and app version is 2.0.4.
Topic by I Otura G
Need help with a basic code I'm trying to make for a personal project, I'm new to Arduino and I find an example of this type of coding would be useful for me to learn off. Would like to get better at this programming stuff and move on to other types of coding. Looked at the basics via the Arduino website but nothing really covered this method of control. A stepper motors speed can be altered via the use of proportional control. The feedback sensor is a potentiometer, which should tell the stepper motor when to stop. Here are the basics of what I know the code must contain Kp = 1;// the gain of the proportional control must contain a multiple factor error = Setpoint -actual position; // provides the error value output = error*Kp; // this will provide the drive for the stepper The stepper should stop when the setpoint value equals the actual value. So the stepper should move faster to its target the further away it is. Using a ULN2004A for the driver and have this setup for the circuit. https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Tutorial/UnipolarKnob_bblg.png Any help explaining or showing an example code upon how to accomplish this task would be appreciated. No idea how to make this affect the stepper speed or even do this control feedback. Am in need of some help.
Topic by Prime01 | last reply
Im helping an elderly fella with parkinsons. Communication is difficult. sometimes he can type. if the keyboard was huge, it might help. Huge calculators have been around for a while. I cant find a huge qwerty board. id rather buy it than scratchbuild it, if possible. scratchbuild if necessary. Help?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I love the new classes feature here at Instructables, and have the ambition to complete as many of them as possible. I do have some feedback for them, however, and that is that the introduction to the class should include a rough estimate of how much it's going to cost to buy the various bits needed to complete the class. I've just finished the Arduino class and loved the fact that a lot of the lessons leading up to the final project contributed to the final build, and as such helped keep the costs of buying the materials (relatively) low. The same can't be said for the Electronics class, however, which has different projects to build for each lesson and is working out rather expensive as a result. Now please understand, I'm not complaining about the fact you have to build a project for each lesson. If anything I'm rather enjoying it. But a little heads up of what roughly how much the class is going to end up costing would be a welcome addition. I can see this consisting of two different sums: - the cost of equipment which is needed, but once you have it, you have it for keeps. - and the cost of any materials which will be consumed by the project. I'm keen on moving onto another class just as soon as I complete the Electronics one, but would like to be able to work out which one I should go for, taking things like price into account, before I get started - rather than maybe having to abandon the class because I suddenly find I can 't afford some of the equipment or materials I'll need for it. Thank you
Topic by LimeBlast | last reply
Please, is there a setting to stop this invisisable video on instructables from running everytime I get to the site it runs, when I reload the page it runs again, when I go to another instructable it runs.
Topic by MsheArt2 | last reply
Silly question. Trying to build something that requires an arduino to take a temperature measurement, and pwm an Item dependant on that temp reading. so the question is how many reads and adjustments per second can I aim for? I was hoping to get the 1 MHz area but am assuming less than that at this time
Topic by plucas1 | last reply
Who decided to revamp how messages and comments work? THAT wasn't broken....what genius decided to fix something that wasn't broken? Hey, how about fixing the part where I see a message from 1 year ago, followed by 2 months followed by 1 week, followed by 2 years followed by 3 days?
Topic by SuperTech-IT | last reply
I really enjoy seeing all the projects people have taken the time to share -- but because so many of the (exact) same ones show up multiple times, I don't have the opportunity (time) to see ALL of them. Is there some way you can fix it so that the duplicates don't show up? Thanks.
Topic by delsur | last reply
Hi Everyone, I'm Sarah Calvillo, a visual artist and interactive designer based in San Francisco. I created Steampunk Mr. Potato Head on instructables a while back. I recently built the first one-stop shop for makers in the U.S. to find and book affordable studio time. Growing up, I've watched my father build our house from his personal workshop. Living in the city, I've found there is limited space to build my own projects. I wanted to create a platform where you could rent space and resources from your community. Funding this project was a major challenge, so I resorted to bartering design for development services with a friend to build Concourse. It took us a couple months to build and launch the site. My only advice for someone replicating this project like this is not to fear being scrappy or hacky. Build what you can, then iterate on what you've built. As a one-woman operation, I’ve been focusing my efforts on helping the Bay Area to start. However, Concourse is open for anyone anywhere to use. You can either rent out your workshop or rent someone else. Visit us Concourse.co. Hope I can help you continue making a create cool stuff on Instructables. DM me for more information about Concourse. Alright ladies and gents, take good care and thanks for your time. All the best, Sarah
Topic by saritamarianyc
Photography is a passion of ours! We enjoy sharing our moments we capture in the field with people who enjoy photography. Below are a few links of our work, as well as the settings used to capture this photo. We hope you enjoy, share and comment. 500px https://500px.com/ridgelinehuntingproductions Facebook https://www.facebook.com/RidgelinePhotos/
Topic by ridgeline16 | last reply
Hi, Is there somewhere stats about the website and the community like: - number of active members, - number of posted I'bles - number of featured I'bles - average number of views - average number of "like" - most liked /viewed I'ble - most active L iked / viewed members - ect... etc.... It is my very own curiosity to know that. b.
Topic by BaptisteL8 | last reply
I'm making a costume. It's a cosplay. What I Have: Voxal Voice Changer. I already know it's capable of making exactly the voice I need. What I Need: A way of synthesizing my voice with that voice effect as part of my costume. Is this possible? The voice I need isn't a very complex one, but it's not a simple pitch change, either. All it is is a little flanger and a little vibrato, but so far I can't find voice changer devices that allow this without being hooked up to a smart phone or a computer, nor was I able to find portable voice changers that included this effect. They're all girthy with lights and dials, and that's hard to conceal on a costume. I noticed Voxal has an export voice feature that allows users to create .voxal files out of the voices, so I'm wondering if there are existing voice changers that could have this file uploaded to it some how, or if there is a way to make or modify a voice changer to do this. Let me know what you think.
Topic by AtomicDragon
So I have been very busy with lots of projects and have not been able to build much with KNEX but now I have some time and hope to make some new and innovative KNEX guns. Do any of you have KNEX guns in the works or new ideas that you want to try out? There is almost Zero activity in the KNEX gun community And it would be really nice if we could bring the community back to life! So that's why i'm posting this to hopefully get some of you building again! Also I just wanted to see if any of you have things that you are planning on posting. There was no KNEX contest this year and it really sucks because having a contest really seemed to get people that don't post any to post stuff. Do you think there is going to ever be another KNEX contest on here again? If you have any KNEX gun ideas please post in the comments with your ideas!
Topic by sonic broom | last reply
Hello instructables Addicts! I manage a group of engineers at Amazon. We're the team that gets to design, prototype, and build new devices and machines for Amazon's warehouses. I'm looking for new people to join the team who are interested in joining us on our mission to build cool new technology. We cover a lot of of diverse areas, from industrial image acquisition and vision systems to embedded device development, so be ready for a challenge! If you love embedded systems design, aren't afraid of the soldering iron, and want to work with some incredibly bright people every day, check our our job posting! All of the jobs are here in Seattle and are full time. Read more about qualifications and apply directly by checking our our posting: https://us-amazon.icims.com/jobs/116465/job . Alternatively, if the link doesn't work, go to amazon.com/jobs and search for 116465. Have a great day!
Topic by gashalot | last reply
Hello, I'm looking to build a solar powered camera that detects cars moving past and takes a photo. I've been trialing an off the shelf model that relies on software to detect motion but it does not perform well when the cars are travelling over 15km/h. For this reason I'd like to try and develop a camera that senses the magnetic properties of a car (like traffic lights). I'm open to suggestions but here's how I picture it working: Magnetometer detects car > Micro controller > Camera > Micro controller > 3G/4G antenna > Internet. The system would need to be powered by a battery which is charged by a solar panel. Send me an email and we can chat on how to tackle the project. I work for an environmental consultancy so we can provide you with proof of an internship. firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks.
Topic by TomF127 | last reply
Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B
Topic by BaptisteL8 | last reply
I need a blueprint for a desk mounted eye tracker, I have some specs I need met ....I need someone who understands this and may have input on how to make the idea better.
Topic by Sherwin1234 | last reply