Addicted to Instructables Tech? Consider doing it full time at Amazon!

Hello instructables Addicts! I manage a group of engineers at Amazon.  We're the team that gets to design, prototype, and build new devices and machines for Amazon's warehouses. I'm looking for new people to join the team who are interested in joining us on our mission to build cool new technology.  We cover a lot of of diverse areas, from industrial image acquisition and vision systems to embedded device development, so be ready for a challenge!  If you love embedded systems design, aren't afraid of the soldering iron, and want to work with some incredibly bright people every day, check our our job posting! All of the jobs are here in Seattle and are full time.  Read more about qualifications and apply directly by checking our our posting: https://us-amazon.icims.com/jobs/116465/job .  Alternatively, if the link doesn't work, go to amazon.com/jobs and search for 116465. Have a great day!

Topic by gashalot 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


How can I build a Solar Powered Camera for Car Detection

Hello, I'm looking to build a solar powered camera that detects cars moving past and takes a photo. I've been trialing an off the shelf model that relies on software to detect motion but it does not perform well when the cars are travelling over 15km/h. For this reason I'd like to try and develop a camera that senses the magnetic properties of a car (like traffic lights). I'm open to suggestions but here's how I picture it working: Magnetometer detects car > Micro controller > Camera > Micro controller > 3G/4G antenna > Internet. The system would need to be powered by a battery which is charged by a solar panel. Send me an email and we can chat on how to tackle the project. I work for an environmental consultancy so we can provide you with proof of an internship. impact.environmental.ptyltd@gmail.com Thanks.

Topic by TomF127 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Synchornized external falsh light for cheap

Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B

Topic by BaptisteL8 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Need someone to draw me a cool blueprint for eye tracking device

I need a blueprint for a desk mounted eye tracker, I have some specs I need met ....I need someone who understands this and may have input on how to make the idea better.

Topic by Sherwin1234 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Wanted: Car Sensing Camera

Hello, I'm looking to build a solar powered camera that detects cars moving past and takes a photo. I've been trialing an off the shelf model that relies on software to detect motion but it does not perform well when the cars are travelling over 15km/h. For this reason I'd like to try and develop a camera that senses the magnetic properties of a car (like traffic lights). I'm open to suggestions but here's how I picture it working: Magnetometer detects car > Micro controller > Camera > Micro controller > 3G/4G antenna > Internet. The system would need to be powered by a battery which is charged by a solar panel. Send me an email and we can chat on how to tackle the project. I work for an environmental consultancy so we can provide you with proof of an internship. impact.environmental.ptyltd@gmail.com Thanks.

Topic by TomF127 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Making Copper (II) Chloride From Acid and Copper

Ok, so last 4th I made fireworks for a small- and I mean small- display, and it turned out fairly well. I only had two complaints- a) It wasn't that colorful, as I was only using pine and palm charcoal for color: reddish orange.b)it wasn't electrical, and took alot of visco, as I wanted everything to go off near-instantaneously. Well, I am going to solve problem b by getting e-matches off of Skylighter, but solving a is a little harder. Then, I read that certain copper compounds could be added to create a green to green-blue color in the flame. Well, I like that idea, but I didn't know where to get the copper compounds. So I kinda left it. UNTIL TODAY!I found this page on making copper (II) chloride. Well, it seemed straightforward enough, so I was going to try it. I was only wondering about two things:a) why on the description on this page about it include hydrogen peroxide, but the page does not even mention it?b)is this safe? I guess I should be outside for the hotplate part- I can't imagine boiling/simmering HCI, inside.c) is this even possible? Does it: 1)create a form of copper that could be used with success in pyrotechnics? 2)create copper chloride at all?Any answers are appreciated. Even if they don't directly pertain to the topic, POST ANYWAY! Makes it more interesting.

Topic by John Smith 11 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


where to buy acrylic

Hello, I am trying to figure out where to buy glass quality acrylic I can mix myself and make a cube 1ft^3 out of.  also if anyone knows the safety issues. Do i need a fume hood or gas mask?

Topic by AviF3 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


WImeo is censored in Indonesia

Hi I live in Indonesia and am a great fan of instructables, I recently signed up for Arduino class and robotics class. But turns out Wimeo that you use to show videos is blocked in Indonesia ( to stop people watching porn)  This makes it harder to follow the classes and see results of experiments and so on. Could you also make the videos available on youtube and just put a link in under the videos as that is not blocked here. ? thank you for your attention

Topic by jarcher12 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


5 gallon bucket acoustics

Hello, I have made a bass out of a 5 gallon bucket and I was wondering how to improve acoustics without a microphone or sound system...

Topic by YoloPeeps 2 years ago


how to make a circuit board

Circuit board I need to make a circuit board for a project. It is all 12vdc, I have a 1a fan and a 6a thermoelectric device one setting 1, plus another 6a on setting 2, and a 3rd on setting 3 So 1 is 7a 2 is 13a 3 is 19a How to make the board. Also a second device has the 1a fan plus a 4watt element, plus another 4w on setting 2, plus another 4w on setting 3 So 1 is 1a and I think 0.4a= 1.4a 2 is 1.8a 3 is 2.2a. I think

Topic by Johnieahenderson 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Looking for SIMPLE LED and Nixie drivers

Hello, I am OK with electronics manufacturing, I can understand most schematics and resistor codes ect.. I am looking for a simple circuit to power 6 nixie tubes via a battery NOT plug in. I know most nixies require 170v, but does this mean I need dedicated 170 for each? or can i build one and power them all - it DOES NOT need to be a clock.. they just need to glow and power..  Also I need a simple circuit to run 6 simple RGB LEDs - no big deal Can any of you suggest some circuits? -Sonny 

Topic by SonnyAngell 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Q & A (hopefully) on Instructables Contest Ideas

I have an idea for a contest but I don't know where to post it.  If anybody knows how please let me know or post it wherever themselves.  I would also appreciate it if all similar posts be connected.                                                                                                                                 The Idea is for a Shelving contest, due to the fact that people have lots of cool ideas that are spread all over and there is no way to be able to see them.

Topic by bosmaru 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


It's over 900000...

Well, my viewcount meter just kicked over 900,000.  Not bad for sticking around a couple of years and making cartoons downfall vids  poking fun at Kiteman ibles to pass the time. One of these days I'll make it into the millionaires club. Winning contests ain't bad. Racking up a wardrobe of Robot t-shirts ain't bad. Getting featured ain't bad. Racking up a ton of free pro memberships ain't bad. Trolling spammers ain't bad.  Yup, not bad at all. Anyone else reaching a milestone or getting close to their goal? (for the interwebs challenged, the topic is a take on the "It's over 9000!" meme, look it up)

Topic by caitlinsdad 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


synchonized flash light for cheap?

Also posted in "burning question " forum Hi, I am looking for someone who could do an synchonized flash light such as this one but for much cheaper ;-) The challenge is on synchronizing the camera with the flashlight, if possible wireless. The light itself and the diffuseur are no real topic. The use of such devices helps a lot when taking pics for your I'bles or your ETSY shop if you have one. Thx B

Topic by BaptisteL8 2 years ago


Advice on how to go from 3D model to laser cutting vector file?

Hello,   I've been getting my feet wet in 3D modeling to try to build board game inserts. These are generally a series of boxes and trays that fit together to hold components and fill the space of the box properly. I have access to a 3D printer, but I can't figure out how to go from my model (in tinkercad or sketchup, generally) to the 2D vector files of the components I need for Corel to print them on the laser cutter. I suspect the process is more than someone could explain to me in the confines of this forum, but if someone in the know could give me a push in the right direction to find the resources I need, even that would be great! I've done a lot of research trying to figure this out, and all I have come up with are some Sketchup plugins that no longer seem to work, or websites that will lonely let me build one box at a time with no extra features (like scallops for card draws). Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. Todd

Topic by JesterPoet 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Kodi or how much copyright protection is honoured these days...

These days when people talk about watching the latest cinema releases or TV series that are not even avialable in their country they often don't mean downloads... Sure, if you look around the web you will find a download for every movie or TV series currently out there but most people don't have the knowledge for it. Then there is the illegal aspect of things which is a true concern for people trying to do the right thing. But for quite a while now there is the Kodi media player out there. What looks to be just another video and music player is currently the number one platform for all sorts of illegal access to video or audio material from all over the world. For a while you could only download and install everything yourself, seeking info in some shady areas of the net. Now you get detailed info to every single step with screenshots and all. The biggest "joke" IMHO is that recently shops and retailers started selling Android TV boxes with Kodi already installed. This would not be a problem either if the required plugins for illegal access would be missing.... So what do you think about the legal side effects? A shops selling devices to illegally access copyright protected material and advertising it: Is this already against the law? A customer who bought the thing without realising he is doing somthing illegal with it: Is the customer really to blame? Out internet activities are an open book to the ISP and basically every law related organisation out there. So please don't pretend to be shocked if one day you get a few DMCA notices served ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Bay window seating question

Hello,         I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on a project I want to do. A new property I'm moving into has bay windows and I want to build a seat for the Mrs. to read and relax on, however any time I look for instructions it has you attach the seat to the wall. Would there be any detriment to simply building a seat in the shape of the wall and just pushing it against the wall without installing it permanently? I'm renting this place and don't fancy having to rip this out of the wall if they don't want to keep it. Thanks, Adam

Topic by AdamF138 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Building small objects out of concrete

Hi all, I was wondering if i could get any pointers on mixing concrete, I have gone through the concrete mixing instructables already and have not found anything suitable and hence I am asking her. I want to formulate an open recipe to make concrete objects like the ones in the following links, http://fancycrave.com/concrete-desk-accessories/ http://www.ledindon.com/en/objets-design/9029-stylo-plume-beton-arme.php http://www.designboom.com/design/concrete-rollerball-pen-by-22-design-studio-at-designboom-shop/ They are mostly small objects where the wall thicknesses are quite small (maybe a few mm). I think it will be interesting to see a DIY approach to making a concrete composition that is strong in small thicknesses, i think a lot of cool objects can be made from it . I have tried the normal concrete mix with cement and sand but i am not able to get it strong enough at those small thicknesses. Can anyone please some suggestions or advice on how to go about this ?  Thanks in advance, please see attached files for some images taken from around the web, i do not own any of them.

Topic by varun2021 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Lets Learn French,German,Sindhi,Spanish,Chinese,Arabic

Dear all, It would be very helpful if any member among us can help us learn each of these languages. That member can be the native speaker of these languages or  have sound knowledge as well. Here I am providing some links to learn Sindhi language as well as other languages . Sindhi http://www.sindhila.org/sindhilearning/ http://www.travel-culture.com/pakistan/sindhi-phrases.shtml http://www.sindhisangat.com/learnsindhi.asp http://learn.sindhila.edu.pk/ http://www.romanizedsindhi.org/audiovisualdetails.aspx?id=1 http://ilanguages.org/sindhi.php http://learn101.org/sindhi.php German http://learn101.org/german.php French http://learn101.org/french.php Spanish http://learn101.org/spanish.php Chinese http://learn101.org/chinese.php Arabic http://learn101.org/arabic.php Miscellaneous languages learning http://learn101.org http://ilanguages.org moreover, You can also help in learning these languages.  

Topic by اسد جوڳي 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Why Vegan Is Good?

Here are four reasons that make me cook and eat vegan, and most important – enjoy it: Vegan is Healthy - Eating vegan and fresh food several times per week will make you lose weight, look better, be full of energy and feel better. Go back to the roots. Vegan is more Sustainable - Conventional livestock farming is the most polluting, water using, greenhouse gases emitting and cruel industry humans have ever managed to create. And don’t give me that crap about pesticides and migrant workers picking the vegetables – buy seasonal (see recipes for autumn-winter, spring-summer or all season meals) and local products. It’s your choice who you’re giving your money to after all! Vegan brings Cultures together - Vegan meals are dominant menu in all ancient cultures – from India and the Middle East, through South East Asia, the Americas, Europe and Africa. Vegan is a Challenge - My first rule – never follow a recipe to the letter. Use your imagination and creativity, change it according to your personal taste, improvise and share your experience. And here I am putting together a cookbook with easy vegan recipes and willing to share experience! 

Topic by DiaPia 7 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Knex underbarrel chainsaw

So i was bored one day and i made a knex underbarrel chainsaw attachment, it works tho, but the chain doesnt have little hooks so its safe to use in and out of knex combat it was really really bulky and rather heavy, it uses a modified knex motor and a micro chain you should be able to build it from the pictures oh by the way the gear closest to the handle is a bit to the side so the chain is a bit crooked

Topic by Kona-chan 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Objective-oriented Contests

On Instructables, contests have tended to had very limited specifications beyond a general theme they work to. I propose this trend be broken in favor of something a bit more actively competitive: hold contests where the objective is set and have people compete to meet that stated goal as set by the contest host. The parameters that entries would be judged upon would be laid out in the briefing, as would any material or cost limitations. Holding competitions in this manner would entice people to competitively build something to meet the requirement the host sets and to do their best to hone their project to succeed in the relevant parameters. I think this would be a nice change from the chaotic randomness of current contests where there isn't much competition among entries, besides wooing people for votes to win finalist positions.

Topic by OrigamiAirEnforcer 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


PLEASE help....smelly basement storage space between units

I have been trying to get RID of a smell with no success. The smell is in a shared closet space between my unit and another unit in a basement (duplexed down units with first floor above grade).  The smell is so damp and musty and just terrible.  This is true especially in the summer.  I want to sell this place, but people have been opening this shared closet and are immediately like what the heck!  I have noticed it all along, but in the winter it is faint.  My spouse says he did not notice it, but at least 30 potential buyers were not okay with it and noticed it in the Summer...no one really commented in the winter, but I always smelled something. We put in a dehumidifier which we empty every single day because it is full (see in picture the type of dehumidifier), but we cannot for the life of figure out where the moisture is coming from.  One person told us it was likely coming out of the floor....I have no idea if this is the case...it almost looks like plywood is on the floor.  I guess this would be a subfloor?  In one of the pictures, it shows where the door opens to this shared space right out of our den.  I am at my wits end trying to figure this out.  I have tried essential oils, carbon, baking soda, the dehumidifier (which feels completely up in one day).  It is closed off in the closet and there is no window or any way for the smell to get out unless we open the doors to our unit and then the units smell!  We cannot smell it at all in either unit with the door closed.  It is sooooo bizarre.  These units are duplexed down to the basement.  It is absolutely puzzling me and has kept us from selling our unit after a winter deal fell through.  When we started showing in the summer, the smell was so strong as it usually is in the summer.  I guess we never paid attention because we never go in there unless getting something from storage.  Can someone tell me what I can do and what type of floor this is?  It kind of looks like it has gray paint on it, but it is certainly some type of wood or a material like it. Should we get someone to rip the floor up? Why is the smell not in either unit?  Please help!

Topic by CareBearie 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Is it true that Google makes employees learn all languages?

I don't know if I heard this right but I believe I heard this in the movie the movie The Internship. Does Google make their employees learn all different languages because Google is in all different countries?

Topic by stankygoodeluck 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


i have to be 18 to buy heet?!?

UGH, so i went into walmart today hoping to buy some heet for my alcohol stove, well it all went well until i got to the register ( self checkout) i scaned and and it said "waiting for aproval". then this big hairy dude came over and told me i had to be 18. my thought is WHY? Tell me what you think, or what else works as a fuel (other than denatured alcohol)

Topic by junits15 9 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Spare parts overpricing - anyone familiar with the concept?

I recently had the joy of getting one of the machines I use at work fixed. We already knew a valve was no longer working but I did not expect the source to be a motor with a gearbox on it. I kept the faulty part to check the internals - just out of curiosity. Now mind you that after little online I sear I found all the components of this drive: 1. A Mabuchi RS-555 motor - priced at under $10 2. A 3 stage planetary gearbox with a sproket for a chain drive - all up and in top quality around $250 with much cheaper options available... 3. A mounting plate - just an aluminium square with 4 holes in it. 4. A standard connector plug with 6cm of cable. Even if I consider that there are only 2 manufacturers for this sort of machinery wordwide I fail to see how a price of very close to $1000 is justified for this part. But let's not brag about politics but design instead: The gearbox is totally over-engeneered for the task and could deliver about 15 times the torque required to moved the valve even if it would be blocked. And against the technicians assurance the drive failed because of us forcing it to be used to often (ROFL) I had to realise the culprit is the design and way it is put together. Despite being all hardened steel there was basically no grease left inside the gearbox, I was not even able to turn it from the motor side by hand! As it is a fully sealed unit I highly doubt the grease just disappeared because most of the metal parts were bone dry, the rest only had a smidge of grease hard like wax left on it. And although the motor has a similar laser engraving than a real Mabuchi motor of the same type it has no ball bearings and judging by the free space bushes of only 4mm lenght, maybe less. One broke off, the other still had about 2.5mm left. I could argue the dry gearbox caused a constant overload of the motor, which is evident by the thermal marks on the rotor but I never had a motor with te brushes broken off the metal clip holding them. The next day I reported my findings to the boss and he said he might have another one somewhere from a previous repair and wanted me to check it as well. Needless to say the faul was identical. This system is being replaced on average every 18 months at a total cost of close to $1500. One third of this is for labour, other spares and general service but the amount for the motor drive is always a sting. Now to really funny part: After my boss had a long and frustrating phone call with our service company it turns out we not allowed to use any parts other then what the manufacturer supplies. Ok, truth told, we are of course allowed to do so but if the service company notices non-genuine parts they have to report it and this automatically cancels our service agreement with the manufacturer. Only one company produces the stuff, only one company in the country has the service contract with them - you see the circle? LOL I found a supplier that could offer a similar motor drive that would only require the original mounting plate and sproket. Priced at just $300 and with a 2 year warranty it sounds tempting especially if you consider that is only for the gearbox and the motor has 3 years. Of cours we won't do it and have to suck it up, so just for laughs a few other spares for this machine that I found in old bills and their price on Ebay for the same part or one of better quality on the right: Various microswitches:                                  25 - 88                       0.20 - 4 Temperatur sensor:                                              129                       1.20 Temp sensor with 30cm heat proof cable:       149                       3.50 Stainless steel sheet metal screw:                        6.50                 0.40 if ordered more than 10 Main switch (simple flip):                                        99                      1.20 Stainless steel screening fliter:                             114                      8.30 And that is just for the mechanical and electrical stuff, if I would go into the plumbing with little stainless steel parts and ruber seals some here might end up with sore muskles from all the laughing... Do have similar equippment that could be serviced better for a fraction of the cost but can't because of similar restrictions? Mind you that I am not talking about warranty stuff here as the machine is far over this already... If someone wants to see how much damage a broken off peice of carbon will cause in the long run let me know. But be aware that I already cleaned away most of the black dust before you complain it looks too clean - I did not want that stuff everwhere ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


CyberK'NEX Personality Programmer software

Hi, I'm looking for the software to program the Cyber K'NEX utra sets. They are no longer available from the K'nex website. Does anyone know a place where I can download this? or does anyone still has this on his PC ? thanks in advance, K'nex fan from Belgium (Europe)

Topic by Jorian 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Miniature oven

Please don't laugh but I am building a small working oven for my daughter and need a heating element that can heat it from 70 to 220 degrees celsius via a thermostat. I've found this heating element http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/3762795/ or http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/1988529/ and this thermostat http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7334726/ but am not sure these are suitable and would work together. The oven will measure about 15cm wide x 8cm hit x 10cm deep but I don't have to stick to this.Any help or advice would be amazing. You're laughing aren't you? :)

Topic by gooseisloose 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


loud sound shut off internet

Hi all. im looking for something what could shut down electricity for 1 second when there is too much noise. lets say with 90 decibel. why? my kids are screaming when they are loosing an computergame online. i want to build something what disconect the power to their router for 1 second. talking to them doesnt help. so who knows how to start this project

Topic by HerbertH6 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


RGB POV

Hello  friends! Im  make RGB pov using Arduino,    How to control 6 RGB Led  using  3 transistors?  please helpme  arduino code

Topic by AzamA9 2 years ago


Arduino time base servo sweep code help

Hi,     I need help on creating arduino code for a time base sweeping servo. Specifically i would like to have my servo sweep 180 degrees and back to center every 20 minutes and repeat indefinably. Im sure its a fairly simple code but just new at coding in general I have looked at servo sweep code sample in the arduino library but I dont know how to implement it with a timer. Hope someone can help me out. thanks for your time uno r3, micro servo 99

Topic by jaysond04 2 years ago


Does your partner / spouse get annoyed by your constant making and tinkering?

I find that whenever I start working on a new project I can get rather passionate and excited about it. This usually results in me getting a little carried away with the making process (typically spending every spare minute I have working on the "next big thing"). It sometimes gets on my girlfriends nerves and you could say she becomes a bit of a "workshop widow". I'm just wondering how everyone else manages with their work / making / life balance. Looking for your stories and experiences (any tips would also be appreciated!). I've tried getting her involved in some of my projects, but that's easier said than done!

Topic by ThirdEarthDesign 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Wood trailer

Hi Joined this interesting website today When the spring comes, a trailer made off wood will be built. So far, a cheap small trailer from 1977 is bought and will be modified The Sketchy drawing program is used to plan how it will look A picture of the original trailer and two screenshots from the program are attached Pictures will be taken during building and will be included in a new instructable later

Topic by 1976kjell 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


arabic is my original language i can help you with it

I can help with formal arabic even commun language

Topic by zainabe 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Translate your instructables to Spanish!

Hi I am new to instructables, and while I currently do not have a instructable posted (maybe soon) I noticed there are not many instructables in Spanish. I think i saw maybe one at best. There are many Spanish speaking people who do not speak English in the United States (and indeed the world over) who could benefit greatly from the wealth of information provided by this wonderful website. I speak and write fluent English and Spanish. (I also speak Swedish but I am not very good at writing it.) To get the ball rolling I am offering  translation of any instructable on this site. Just send me a message and I will start doing what I do. By translating your post you will be appealing to a much wider audience, and probably get more votes! Who doesn't want that?

Topic by Raziel7 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Any Ideas On What I Should Post?

Hello, K'NEX community! I am the Knex Inventor, and I am looking for ideas of what I should post. If you have an idea of what I should post, please comment below with your suggestion, and I will consider making it. If I do make and post one of your ideas, I will give you partial credit for helping to come up with it. Thanks!, -The Knex Inventor

Topic by The Knex Inventor 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


LED dimming and color temperature control (variable white LEDs)

I'm trying to find an inexpensive way to control a variable-white LED strip with knobs. There are tons of remote dimmers and wall-touch-controls available. These are way too complicated or too big for my application. All I want is two knobs. One that controls the brightness of the LED strips and one that controls the color temperature between the cold and the warm white LEDs I did some research and see two possible solutions: a) 100% analog using potentiometers and LED drivers or b) using potentiometers, Arduino, and LED drivers. Here are the details: a) Analog: - Use two LED drivers to drive the actual LEDs, like these ones: http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/buckpuck-dc-led-drivers - Use two dual-channel potentiometers to control the brightness of the two different LEDs in the strips:   - One controls the brightness for both channels (connected to the same pins)   - One controls the relative brightness between the channels (connected to opposite side pins) b) Using Arduino: - Any Arduino with analog inputs - Two single-channel potentiometers connected to two analog inputs - Some software that generates the correct PWM outputs for the two LED channels - LED drivers that can dim using PWM signal input. According to this post, the same BuckPucks can do that, too: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=14603.msg107089#msg107089 Do you have any advice on these options? Is there a third one or even an off the shelf solution? What about compliance and certification? If I use BuckPucks and other components that are certified, do I still need a certification for the whole system? (assuming I want to use the design not just for my personal pleasure)

Topic by smensch07 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Power genration by Foot steps

The main purpose of this Project is that to design a system that convert the mechanical energy harvested from human motion into electrical energy.This project report contains the complete literature review and implementation of an alternative to electrical power supplied by batteries for portable electronic devices and for computerized and motorized prosthetics. The report presents the idea to generate power harvesting from human motion. Electrical devices have been liberated from the wall socket. Battery powered computers, phones and music devices come along everywhere we go. The limiting factor is electricity. In the end the battery always goes dead. Ironically, when we move around with our portable devices we produce a lot of energy. But a lot of this energy is lost as heat. If that mechanical energy could be converted into electricity, our very mobility could charge our mobile devices. Using the working principal of dynamo, we intend to generate a small power which then can be used to charge the portable devices. We are charging mobile battery for testing purpose.

Topic by engr.zainshah 5 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Half Inch CRT Monitror

I was tearing apart an old VHS camera and decided to rip the LCD out of the viewfinder. Much to my suprise I find a CRT monitor not a LCD! This screen is about 1/2 inch. It has a 5 pin connector that leads to the motherboard and a chip on the bottom that says A118121. Obviously two of the conections would be V+ and ground, but what about the other three? I would like to turn this into a composite or VGA compatible screen (maybe even a crazy tiny oscilloscope) but I need some help. Any suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by gimmelotsarobots 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Buzzer Game With Reset

I would like some help with this circuit. Description: It's like a regular electric circuit Buzzer game but with a no cheating reset option. 1. One must go from A to B to light L. 2. When you start (A) a green led turns on (G) 3. If you touch X, the buzzer sounds (S) an a red led (R) turns on, at this time (G) turns off. This means you have to restart from A 4. this must be powered by a 9V or 12V battery

Topic by RicardoA53 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


NEED HELP Looking for people to make a video game with me ^_^

Hi everyone! I'm posting here to see if anyone would like to help me create a real steam game! Its something Ive been working on for a long time. Basically its a team based FPS and I was wondering if anyone on here has or is interested in helping me code the game / programmers!  All the artwork and designs and concepts / storyline is completed just looking to make some buddies and create a real team! Let me know if youre interested! Cant wait to start! :D

Topic by Littlepuff 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Mobile video game idea and mechanics needed

I've been wanting to create a game for a while and have learned mot off all the aspects needed...modelling,texturing,scripting(my specialty)....what i need is a good plot and possibly mechanics i can do the scripting...i am looking to focus on a survival horror genre...so if the plots could be generated around that area it would be nice and appreciated

Topic by kofo_14 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Metal hallide ballasts - projects using?

I had to buy 2 salt water aquarium ballasts because they where dirt cheap, solid and shiny. I have no use for 2 shiny MH ballasts. Any suggestions for projects? Practical, informative or destructive? Not necessarily in that order ....

Topic by bmiller91 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


motorized flip up license plate

    I have started to try and create a motorized flip up license plate. It's mainly for my motorcycle.  In the "off" position the license plate is down and readable. Turn the switch to "on" and it flips up, making the plate unreadable. I thought about using a servo or a motor with limit switches. I do not really know how to wire something up to control the servo or motor.  Any help would be great. I know they sell these as kits, but they start off at teh $150 dollar range. Thanks in advance!

Topic by thirdGEARchirp 7 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Which arduino borad to buy?

Http://arduinoteacher.appspot.com/matrix_8.html Hello! And i am interested in starting arduino! But i am not familiar with the hardware spec of arduino boards. I have some electronics and programming bg as an physics student. I read the above tutorial, the led matrix looks like a easy/cool starter project. However, i have a question, For 4 by 4 matrix, it need 4 outputs and 4 grounds. With 14 i/o pins on an arduino uno (0to13), is 7 by 7 the maximum for upscaling this design without multiplexing? Or if i can get a "shield" that add more pins to the uno? Should i just get a arduino mega with 54 I/O pins? Since it is not that expensive, Is the tutorial compatible with a mega? Actually my target build is two 15 by 15 matrix displaying identical image. Can i rig up two identical led matrix, connect both in parallel to the same board? Thank you in advance! for your replies!!

Topic by mchau2 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Announcing Finalists for the IOT Builders Contest.

Does anyone know when the finalists for the Current IOT Builders Contest are going to be announced. The contest ended on January Second 2017, and today is the fifteenth. This contest seems to be taking an especially long time to judge. Hey "Danger is my middle name" , if you're out there, could you let me know an estimate for when the Finalists will be released? Thank  you so much!!

Topic by willydegroot 2 years ago


15 litre/4 gallon water bottles

I have a lot of 15 litre/4 gallon empty, non-refillable water jugs. I keep searching, but, cannot find ways to use them. There are so many ways to use 2 litre pop bottles:  making nifty stuff, building green houses etc. Surely there are creative ways to use these. Can anybody help with ideas or maybe point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Topic by MaijaLiisa 3 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


How can I modify my vacuum to turn the brush roll off?

I have https://smile.amazon.com/Hoover-Cleaner-WindTunnel-Lightweight-UH70120/dp/B002HFDLCK/ref=pd_ybh_a_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GR3CWSF52RR4YEMDSQWV this vacuum. I love it, the Hoover Vacuum Cleaner WindTunnel T-Series Rewind Plus Bagless Lightweight Corded Upright UH70120. I was wondering if anyone had a hack to make the brushroll turn off for hard floors. it currently doesnt have that option. Thank you!

Topic by JuliaM115 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Mono Bass in Stereo System

Hello Everyone I'm building a portable amp system running in stereo, but I only have one Bass speaker. Each Speaker (5, left/right tops, left/right mids and the bass) has its own amp. How can I connect the input on the bass speaker to the (stereo) input while keeping the channels separate? Thanks. 

Topic by IronCake 2 years ago