Need help creating a very simple Arduino code

Just a simple forward code. arduino uno to A3967 EasyDriver Stepper Motor Driver to nema 17

Topic by Sweetcorn_18   |  last reply


What is it? Is there a modern equivalent?

This is from a 1949 Pfaff 332 sewing machine foot pedal. (I believe the machine was brought to the US by a war bride.) When I tried the machine recently, it wouldn't completely stop when I took my foot off. We opened it up and found this partially decomposed multi layered 'thing'. Other than dust and dirt, it looks like the only damaged part. Does anyone know what it is? Does anyone know what a modern equivalent would be?

Topic by mole1   |  last reply


Instructables Joins Autodesk

The Instructables community is incredible: you build, bake, and create amazing things, then share your projects and ideas with the world. I think it’s great when someone builds a project using instructions from our site, but it’s even more amazing when we inspire someone to start (or finish) that project they’ve always dreamed of. This has been my vision for Instructables: to have a positive impact on the world by giving passionate people great publishing tools to document their projects, and connect them to a community full of like-minded people. Today I’m able to share my plan for accelerating that vision, and making Instructables an even better place to be. I’m proud to announce that Instructables is becoming part of Autodesk. Everyone here at Instructables HQ is absolutely thrilled, because this is going to be awesome for the entire Instructables community. Instructables will still be the same site you love: we’ll keep the Instructables name and URL, the whole team is staying on, our policies haven’t changed, you still hold copyright to your projects, we’ll still run awesome contests, and the Robot isn’t going anywhere. However, we’ll now have the resources to make some improvements to the site I know our authors and community will love. Autodesk gives us the scale and support to grow and improve Instructables, build some great apps, and continue our mission of creating a positive impact on the world. Everyone on the Instructables team will become Autodesk employees, but we'll still wear our Robot t-shirts with pride. Autodesk is a great cultural fit for Instructables. They make tools for creative people: they’re the world leader in 3D design, engineering, and entertainment software. Even if you don’t recognize the name Autodesk, their software has powered the movies you watch, and designed the cars you drive and the buildings you work in. Instructables will be the community arm of the same team that makes 123D, SketchBook, Homestyler, and Pixlr, which will help provide creative tools, inspiration, and services for all types of creative people. Here’s Carl Bass, Autodesk’s CEO, talking more about his vision for the future of DIY. We’ve had a great time building Instructables, and look forward to taking it to the next level. Thanks to the Instructables team for all their hard work, our investors including O’Reilly Alpha Tech Ventures and Baseline Ventures for believing in us, and to all the authors and community members who have made Instructables a great place to learn and share ideas. I’m confident Autodesk will be a great home for Instructables, and will help us make Instructables an even better place to share your projects and ideas. I’m excited to join the Autodesk team, and get right to work. I’d also like to hear what you think: click here for info on an upcoming live Q&A; event, and click here to suggest how we should co-opt the resources of a multi-national corporation to make Instructables even more awesome. This announcement is duplicated on our blog here.

Topic by ewilhelm   |  last reply


Another idea for a piece-tracking chess board

RFID-based chess boards have their merits of course, but would be pretty expensive and could potentially suffer from antenna cross-talk. Furthermore, the relatively immense amount of information carried compared to what's required makes RFID sort of overkill. Reed switches have the opposite problem, only carrying a single bit of information per square (piece present y/n). It seems that what you want is something in-between (six kinds of pieces, two colors, so you only need four bits of entropy per square/piece).My idea is the following:Each square is a circuit containing a signal generator connected to four bandpass filters at frequencies f1,f2,f3,f4 (multiplexed of course, so that we only need a few signal generators/filters)Each piece has a RLC circuit in the foot (with fairly large inductance)The circuit in each piece is tuned to resonate at frequency f1, f2, f3 or f4, or any combination of the fourTo poll a square for information, we mux to the square's circuit and generate sin(f1) + sin(f2) + sin(f3) + sin(f4). Now we should be able to discern which piece is on the square based on the frequency response observed at the output of the bandpass filtersIf I'm not completely missing something, the resulting PCB should be comparatively cheap to construct. But I'd love to hear if this is a less elegant solution than I think. Are there any problems with this idea?

Topic by BenjaminL136   |  last reply


Can't reply to comments on my instructable

Hi all,I have been unable to respond to comments posted on my instructable. I am using firefox 65.0.1 and it is set to auto clear browser cache when I close the browser. I'm not sure what else to try. Any ideas on how I can get this working? Appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

Topic by parsons_woodcrafts   |  last reply


23 stage no-capacitor full auto coilgun

  *********I have updated my design since posting this topic. The video is the more current design than what is written below.**********    I came to the conclusion that using capacitors to provide the power for a coil gun is a stupid idea. A bold statement I know. The reason is that they are big and heavy, take time to charge, and need charging circuits. Also, the sharp rise in current that comes from capacitors is bad unless you are making an induction style coilgun, because the induced currents will hurt efficiency.    If coil guns are ever going to be a practical hand held weapon it will need to be lighter, simpler / less delicate, and more powerful than what you will find on the internet if you look up coil guns. A rate of fire that is competitive with conventional guns will also be needed if a coil gun will be used for anything other than target shooting or maybe hobby hunting. So I designed a coilgun to meet these requirements. Visit my website for a full explanation of the design: http://www.ourbadscience.com/#!em-guns/cwjy     I realized that a coilgun would not be a practical infantry weapon until batteries are more advanced anyway, so that just adds to the list of why capacitors are out. It will be powered directly off of the batteries, and have many coil stages. This allows a very high rate of fire. To get that rate of fire with capacitors you would need several capacitor banks charging at offset times, so after each bank fires another is just finished charging. That would be terribly bulky.    The lower voltage from the batteries will give comparatively slow current rise in the coils which normally would make the coil timing weird. I plan to use an unconventional coil timing though. All the coils will be activated at once, and the coils behind the projectile will be shut off as it passes them. This will have several advantages: -The coils will only be powering up for a split second at the beginning. Most coils will already be at full power when the projectile gets to them (that is not the case in most coil guns). -Induced current will not be any issue. -Since the coils will all act as one coil, the projectile will be drawn toward the center of all the coils that are on. Timing of the shut off of the coils will not need to be perfect.    This will be a pre-tuned passively timed system. I want to use a small adjustable electronic timer for the switch-off timing. This will require some work in the initial adjustment of the timing, but even actively switched coil guns (with optical sensors or something) require that. the advantage of a passive system over an active system is cost and simplicity, and you can pack the coils tighter on the barrel if you are not putting a sensor between each stage. That matters with 23 stages! As I said check out my website to see more details and pictures for this and other projects: http://www.ourbadscience.com/#!em-guns/cwjy

Topic by Jaycub   |  last reply


Help With Arduino Robot Arm Record & Playback With SD Card, Bluetooth

Hi, I need some help please with the following code - lots of errors occur when I try to verify it. The author is unavailable for help & the code appears to be in the public domain. Check out the clip, it looks awesome! https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v;=7A1WL60wMe0 https://github.com/Dileepmeom/Arduino-Robotic-Arm- //# Arduino-Robotic-Arm---Copt-Cat //This project controls the Cartesian robotic arm using Arduino, Motion sequence can be recorded and played back just like //Industrial robot does /* COPY CAT Servo controlled Robot 5-axis Cartesian robot This software logs the angular movement of joints by reading the servo angles and stores it in the SD card, reproduces the movement by the reading back from the SD card. The circuit: analog sensors on analog ins 0, 1, and 2 SD card attached to SPI bus as follows: ** MOSI - pin 11 ** MISO - pin 12 ** CLK - pin 13 ** CS - pin 4 created 24 Nov 2010 modified 9 Apr 2012 by Tom Igoe This example code is in the public domain. */ include include define TRUE 1 define FALSE 0 // On the Ethernet Shield, CS is pin 4. Note that even if it's not // used as the CS pin, the hardware CS pin (10 on most Arduino boards // 53 on the Mega) must be left as an output or the SD library // functions will not work. const int chipSelect = 4; // constants won't change. They're used here to // set pin numbers: const int buttonPin = 2; // the number of the pushbutton pin const int servo3 = 5, servo4 = 6,servo5 = 5; // PWM for servo 3 // variables will change: int buttonState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status int recievedchar = 0,dataON=0; int SDdata = 0; Servo myservo1; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo2; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo3; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo4; // create servo object to control a servo Servo myservo5; // create servo object to control a servo int servo1angle = 0,servo2angle = 0; unsigned long current_servo_micros, prev_servo_micros; unsigned long currentMillis,previousMillis = 0; int scheduler = 0; int servointerval = 20; int S3_microlocal; char servoON=0; void setup() { // Open serial communications and wait for port to open: Serial.begin(9600); while (!Serial) { ; // wait for serial port to connect. Needed for Leonardo only } pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT_PULLUP); Serial.print("Initializing SD card..."); // make sure that the default chip select pin is set to // output, even if you don't use it: pinMode(10, OUTPUT); // see if the card is present and can be initialized: if (!SD.begin(chipSelect)) { Serial.println("Card failed, or not present"); // don't do anything more: return; } Serial.println("card initialized."); } void loop() { long servo3ticks = 1000, servo4ticks = 1000, servo5ticks = 1000; // interval for servo cyle time / / read the state of the pushbutton value: buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); recievedchar = Serial.read(); // make a string for assembling the data to log: String dataString = ""; String arraystring = ""; String SDstring = ""; char firstseperator=0; unsigned long sensorarray[10]; int servoangle[5]; char arrayindex = 0; // open the file. note that only one file can be open at a time, // so you have to close this one before opening another. if(dataON == TRUE) { // read three sensors and append to the string: for (int analogPin = 0; analogPin < 5; analogPin++) { int sensor = analogRead(analogPin); sensorarray[analogPin] = sensor; dataString += String(sensor); if (analogPin < 4) { dataString += ","; } } File dataFile1 = SD.open("datalog.txt", FILE_WRITE); // if the file is available, write to it: if (dataFile1) { if(buttonState == HIGH) { // print to the serial port too: // Serial.println(dataString); /////////////////////////// debug code ///////////////////// for (arrayindex= 0; arrayindex < 5; arrayindex++) { int arrayvalue = sensorarray[arrayindex]; //arraystring += String(arrayvalue); } servo1angle = map(sensorarray[0], 102, 433, 0, 170); arraystring += servo1angle; arraystring += ","; servo2angle = map(sensorarray[1], 84, 468, 0, 180); arraystring += servo2angle; arraystring += ","; servo3ticks = map(sensorarray[2], 90, 393, 0, 150); arraystring += servo3ticks; arraystring += ","; servo4ticks = map(sensorarray[3], 107, 445,0, 180); arraystring += servo4ticks; arraystring += ","; servo5ticks = map(sensorarray[4], 151, 406, 10, 140); arraystring += servo5ticks; arraystring += ","; // Serial.println(arraystring); //// WRITE TO SD CARD // dataFile1.println(arraystring); dataFile1.close(); ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// delay(10); } else { dataFile1.close(); // print to the serial port too: Serial.println("No signal for writing"); } } // if the file isn't open, pop up an error: else { Serial.println("error opening datalog.txt"); } } // the reading's most significant digit is at position 15 in the reportString: ////// switch case starts ///////////////////////// switch (recievedchar) { case 'D': { dataON = TRUE; Serial.print("Recording"); Serial.print("\n"); myservo1.detach(); myservo2.detach(); myservo3.detach(); myservo4.detach(); myservo5.detach(); break; } case 'S': { dataON = FALSE; Serial.print("Stopped"); Serial.print("\n"); break; } case 'R': { myservo1.attach(5); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo2.attach(3); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo3.attach(8); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo4.attach(7); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object myservo5.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object File dataFile1 = SD.open("datalog.txt"); Serial.print("Playing Back Motions"); Serial.print("\n"); // if the file is available, write to it: if (dataFile1) { while (dataFile1.available()) { SDdata = dataFile1.read(); SDstring += (char)SDdata; // if(isDigit(SDdata)) // { // SDstring += (char)SDdata; // } // else // { // // int Sensordata = (inString.toInt()); // SDstring += ("_"); // } if(SDdata == '\n') { digitalWrite(servo4, LOW); String reportString = SDstring; // Serial.print("\n"); // Serial.println(reportString); // Serial.print("\n"); int seperator[5]={0}; int n=0,startfrom=0; for(n=1;n<=5;n++) { seperator[n]= reportString.indexOf(',',startfrom); startfrom = seperator[n]+1; // Serial.print(seperator[n]); // Serial.print("\n"); } seperator[0]=-1; for(int count=0;count<=4;count++) { String sens1data = ""; for(int index = (seperator[count]+1); index < seperator[count+1]; index++) { char mostSignificantDigit =SDstring.charAt(index); sens1data += String(mostSignificantDigit); // Serial.print(index); // Serial.print(","); } servoangle[count+1] = sens1data.toInt(); // Serial.print(servoangle[count+1]); // Serial.print(sens1data); // Serial.print("\n"); } delay(15); SDstring = ""; } // myservo1.write(0); // myservo2.write(100); // myservo3.write(100); // myservo4.write(100); // myservo5.write(10); myservo1.write(servoangle[1]); myservo2.write(servoangle[2]); myservo3.write(servoangle[3]); myservo4.write(servoangle[4]); myservo5.write(servoangle[5]); } dataFile1.close(); myservo1.detach(); myservo2.detach(); myservo3.detach(); myservo4.detach(); myservo5.detach(); } // if the file isn't open, pop up an error: else { Serial.println("error opening datalog.txt"); } break; } case 'E': { if(SD.exists("datalog.txt")) { Serial.print("datalog.txt file found, preparing to delete"); SD.remove("datalog.txt"); Serial.print("\n"); Serial.print("file deleted..."); } break; } } }

Topic by steve444   |  last reply


How Do You Make a Clock Silent?

I've tried tinkering, but it never seems to work. Is there a way to make an analog clock silent (or at least quieter), without actually turning it off (the idiot's answer to everything)? I recently had to retire my old bedside clock, and so I bought a cheap-o one at Wal-Mart for about 5 dollars...and it is the loudest thing I've ever heard. Will someone please enlighten me?

Topic by KnittingFreak   |  last reply


Deactivated Bone Growth Stimulator

I have a CMF bone growth stimulator that no longer works. These devices are set to die after so many uses. Does anyone have any ideas on how to reactivate these units? Or, hacking these things for another purpose?

Topic by wmlaveck   |  last reply


Login in Issues

Ok right now I am having another issue other then the not downloading one when I try to log in with my instructables account the login button on the login page https://www.instructables.com/account/login/ is not able to be pressed so I have to log on with facebook or google which is fine but it a bit anoying any one got some help

Topic by wnorman   |  last reply


Need Recommendation for 3D Printer for Makerspace

Aloha. I am in charge of purchasing a couple of 3D Printers and associated programs/materials for our developing Makerspace. We are a two-year college. The equipment will be used primarily by students. It may also be used for a credit class. I appreciate any suggestions. Mahalo.

Topic by BethS117   |  last reply


{"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Trying to download PDF for https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Powered-WiF... ands get {"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"}

Topic by abasel   |  last reply


How to get started in digital art?

I really want to get into digital art. I have had art classes when I was in grade 7 and 8, but none beyond that. I have uploaded 2 paintings my teacher made me draw ( Starry night looks horrible,  I know). I also uploaded a third picture showing that sort stuff I wish I could make. so, where do I get started? What materials do I need?

Topic by _ZERO_   |  last reply


Analysing your test results for Aspergers Syndrome

A free for all, discussion on self analysis of your test http://www.rdos.net/eng/ picture (a pie graph) or Aspie-Rating-Picture (ARP) and final score Please try not to post pictures here, leave that for https://www.instructables.com/community/test/ Can somebody volunteer their non-Aspie picture, for the purposes of this discussion. Mine is here temporarily.

Topic by Lateral Thinker   |  last reply


Rfid Brain Chip

Is it safe to destroy a Rfid Chip in the Brain with an EMP device or would the Heat damage the Tissue too much?

Topic by Atlasx111   |  last reply


Why "Vortex" for Vortex math and devices?

If you are new to the topic then it might give you a slightly quicker understanding than watching hours of youtube videos.I assume you have seen these various coils that make a sphere shaped magnet spin at insane speeds.They are a good start.You see by normal understanding these Rodin or Vortex coils should not be able to produce a field that rotates that fast.As with a lot of things we tried to use math to explain it in theory and than adjusted the math to match it.Vortex math was born.So how do you explain blue and red to a blind person that never saw anything?I mean in a way they actually know how it would look if they could see?Doesn't work, but we can use a Dyson vacuum cleaner ;)A lot of "tornados" add up to one giant super tornado.Spinning so fast that "all" the dirst stays behind and only clean air comes out.As in nature all the weather cells add up to one that is more powerful than the combined single ones.The tornados that form the term vortex are around the coils.But also around the entire donut as well as every single strand of wire.In any good vortex the rotational speed increases towards the center and bottom of the vortex.You can try that with some floating stuff when you drain your bathtub or sink.Try to imagine and endless tornado that runs around every wire like a spiral.The coil itself adds another spin vector to it and increases the moving speed or the single tornado.Combined it adds up to a very strong tornadoe moving very fast around in the coil pack.As this also creates a rotating field like another tornado in the donut shape it all gets twisted up.Physics as we know it won't fully explain these effects.Vortex devices that produce electricity are usually coils in a special winding configuration and pattern.Like we try to eliminate certain things with basket coils in the HF area a Rodin or Vortex coil tries to utlise these otherwise unwanted stray effects and interferences.Overunity is another term people like to use here but I leave it up to you if such a things is phsically possible with an electrical system.Vortex math tries to explain all these things demonstrated in experiments.However I found two slight flaws in the common approch.1. Only two dimension used.Unlike the coils the simplified Vortex math only operates in two dimensions.A circle instead of a sphere if you like.2. Again, unlike the coil harmony and resonance are neglected.It seems in some cases people try to draw a circle just with straight lines.While in reality you have a never ending, resonant "stream" in three or to be precise four dimensions.Is it the chicken and egg problem?Yes and no.You can only calculate something if you can fully understand it or exactly replicate it in reality.Vortex coils are just way to interpret theories and get some sort of results.And those results are the real problem.We can measure magnatic fields in strenght and direction even frequency.However we can neither make them visible in real time not measure mixed or entangled fields properly.We "see" Mars is our "red planet" but in reality it just the atmosphere, the surface is not red at all in most places.NASA has enough problems to calculated missions to outer space with enough accuracy.Just imagine they would have to do it while considering that around every path our planets make is another spinning "distraction"....That is exactly what Vortex math tries to do while eliminating common math bit by bit.You can see and hear in 3 dimensions.Maybe you are also good in drawing something in 3D on your compterscreen or 3D headset.But how many here could predict the path of a baseball in 3D like they do when watching a game?Depending on your viewing angle you might be way off....Try to know or calculate where exactly the ball is at any given monet in time and how fast it spins in which direction.....Our brains are not trained to think like this!Even if we construct things like a dome we prefer to have straight features.Sure manufacturing is one thing that needs to be affordable.But try to just calculate the support structure if all is actually fully round like a sphere should be.We avoid what is considered higher dimensions as much we can.To calculate a distance in 3D it still seems easier to use two 2D models to add up instead of true vectors.Again only through technology like computer we are able to simulate, understand and actually calculate what we need.Where we ventured around the globe and into our solar system our math was left behind.Finding workaround and good enough approximations still seems the way to go.Instead actually evolving our math to our needs we just add more and more complex formulas and calculations.To fully understand vortex math you need to let go and start thinking in 4 dimensions instead of just 2.Oh, sorry, you might be new to this...Number 4 is time of course.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Native iOS and Android App Retirement

Hello Community! In an ongoing effort to make sure that Instructables is able to focus its product development efforts where they count most for existing an new authors, we are officially retiring our native iOS and Android apps. Note that this does not affect mobile web. I expect continued investment in mobile technologies for years to come, but we will focus on the experience of people using Instructables through their mobile web browsers, rather than through downloaded apps. For those keeping score, this isn't exactly news. We have not released new versions of either app in over two years, and they have become steadily buggier and buggier during that time due primarily to changes in their respective environments. Android 2 and iOS 5 were current when we released them originally, and Android 7 and iOS 10 are very different beasts. Simply keeping up -- even without adding anything new or fixing any bugs -- requires a constant investment of development time from Instructables, and prevents that time from going to projects with greater impact. The original purposes for the apps were: 1) To lower the bar to Instructables authorship by providing direct access to upload photos taken on smart phones 2) To improve the browsing experience by making it faster Since they were released, mobile technologies have progressed to the point that #1 is no longer a concern. Our mobile web editor already has full support for uploading images directly from your phone. #2 is also coming into striking distance soon, as browser manufacturers begin to standardize their implementation of offline content for mobile web sites, sometimes referred to collectively as "progressive web apps". We'll be watching these technologies closely, and we'll be among the first to speed up your browsing experience with offline components when cross-browser solutions become available. We have already developed (and will continue to expand on) Accelerated Mobile Pages, which mean we display nearly instantaneously when you tap an AMP result on mobile from Google. You can identify these pages via a lightning bolt in mobile search results: In short, the reasons that we developed the native apps no longer apply, and we're dropping support for them in favor of putting those energies where they are able to have greater impact for the community: Mobile Web. The apps will soon be removed from sale from their respective download stores. For existing users who have downloaded these apps and are using them currently: feel free to continue doing so, though we would urge you to upload your Instructable Drafts to the website as soon as possible. While we don't expect the editing process to break, no support is available should you experience issues in the future. You can also use the apps to browse Instructables, though I believe there are already some issues that have started adding friction to this experience. Thanks, all, for your continued support of our vibrant community! ~Devs

Topic by pseaton   |  last reply


How to get an old and filthy toilet back to glory

I moved into a new rental and it was a bit neglected to say it nice.My longest nouisance however was the old toilet.Calcium and urine stains turned the bottom, where the water sits, into a black, crusty mass.Toilet cleaners of all sorts provide a nice smaell, but even bleach or things like jiffy did not do a thing.Hours were wasted trying to scrape, brush or just swear the filth off but no luck.All I managed was to turn the black into a slightly grey crust, still ugly.One day I had the honor to clean my water kettle and to remove the calcium deposits in it.Of course I was lazy and just some delimer, citric acid, as instructed.Let it sit a few hours, wipe it out, nice.Hmmmm.....Hold on a second, what would happen if I use that stuff in the toilet?!?So I flushed some hot water through to warm up the bowl, then about 1 liter of boiling hot water with two packs of coffee machine cleaner dissolved in it.Let it sit over night only to be very disappointed the next morning.It looked like nothing changed.Unlike pots and kettles my toilet appeared to still have al crusts stuck in it.When I flushed however most of it just flushed away!A little brushing and the rest was gone too - a clean and white toilet again!No more calcium and other hard deposits :)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Need help with a project

Hi, I am making a project with arduino that has to run two nema 17 stepper motors that will turn separate pinion gears for a rack and pinion and a single servo to move and arm up and down. I want to be able to control everything with a wired control pad. If anyone knows an instructable that would help with this could you let me know please. I have not had any luck finding anything. Thank you.

Topic by tensecondsdown   |  last reply


Belt feed

Does anyone have some kide of blueprint on how to make a belt feed MP. I have seen the examples of ones on howstuffworks.com but that isn't helping me much right now. I'm not really sure how I can belt feed it through. I am working with a P.A. Luty's 9mm. Can some one help me on this. If you have been able to make a belt feed system can you show me yours in photos. I think that would also be a great instructable too. I'm not to sure how to make a belt for 9mm rounds either. Instead of sticking with his design on the magazine I think it would be great to have a belt feed system on this weapon.

Topic by 6Rea6per6   |  last reply


Power banks and solar cells -could be great Instructable for you to make!

I was lucky to score a nice and real 8000mAh power pack with a solar cell from my local discounter.Realising the solar cell is more a gimmick than of real use I started to wonder....We all love our mobile devices and really hate that they need to be constantly charged up again.On long outdoor trips people used to carry a lot of gear and vital supplies.In todays times it almost seems that solar and battery power start to replace food and water.No trip is complete without pics, selfies and videos, some even take a drone with them.So: are there ways to increase your luggage weight by thinking smarter?Modern technology has come a long way and moves faster ever year.Solar cells are no exception here.Be it foldable setups or now even roll ups of flexible cell systems, you have the total freedom of coice.But then again: You are going on a week long camping trip in the middle of nowhere...Going on foot or using a bike means you need to keep the extras down or hire someone to carry them.Here are some of my yet to be finnished ideas:As long as you don't use them commercially feel free to make an Instructable or just use the ideas!1. Pop up amd normal tents.They seem to be the new standard now.Big with no poles on the inside and even someone who never used a tent can set them up.With the design comes a certain way of folding everything to pack it.Flexible solar cell designs won't break and can often be arranged so they would actually be able to replace parts of the outer tent material.And if it could mean they would get kinked too much and too often they are still perfect to create some "strap on panels" that can be rolled up and included with your foam underlay or mattress.A 200 or even 400W system can be transported easy and has less weight than a 80W fold up solution that you struggle to secure on your backpack or bike.2. Trackers!What is now almost a standard for fixed installations is still not seen in mobile setups.You pop up your panels, connect the power packs or batteries and go fishing, hiking or whatever.The sun moves on, the efficiency of the panels suffer.There are a lot of great Ibles for these solar trackers, from simple to 3 dimensional.Kites loves to use carbon fibre rods to reduce the weight.A tracking frame to hold a good sized flexible panel would count at less than 300 grams....In return you get up to 40% higher effiency and overall output compared to a fixed panel!Roll the panel up, fold the frame and you end up with a quite small roll that is easy to transport and very low in weight.3. Battery backups.No matter how long and well you planned, the weather might let you down shortly after your trip started.For a lot of comitted people that is no problem.The lack of power though can cause some to struggle to keep their video logs running.Your small drone might be great but it only lasts for less then 30 minutes until you need fresh batteries.Similar story if you use stabilizers, automatic tilt and pan gadgets or just a 360° camera.Just your cell phone alone can be a hassle if you use it as the main thing for GPS, pics and videos.At least one set of spare batteries seems to be a must have these days.For a lot of things it does make sense, for others not so much.Unless you really need ongoing power it might be enough to just charge you empty battery at the end of the day.But then the sun is down and options are gone for solar energy.In the RC area we can find a lot of powerful battery packs.Usually around 14V but 40 or more are no problem.And if you check the E-bike and scooter sections you will find some quite powerful and light weight battery packs.If you go outdoors a lot and for longer periods of time then it makes sense to replace the multiple battery options with just a single one.Use a high power backup battery with your solar system.DC-DC converters make it possible to literally combine everything with everything.Select the battery size so it will suit your charging needs and capabiliteis of the solar setup.Once time to close the tent you enjoy electricity to finnish your logs while your batteries are being charged during the night from the backup.4. Emergency generator.We all know these cheap gadgets like crank up torches or cranking mobile phone chargers.Nice to play with, utterly useless if you actually have to rely on them.A full charge for your modern phone might mean you crank for at least half the day - good luck!If you already carry a supply of gas for your cooking needs then these new fuel cells running on butane might be nice.Some of the Kickstarter projects actually made it into production!Prices though are more for real fans or those with enough money...But a small RC engine can drive some nice DC motor with very little fuel....In return you get a pocket sized generator that can charger your phone fully in the same amount of time a wall charger would...

Topic by Downunder35m 


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Topic by seamster   |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Anyone have any interest or experience with proximity based BLE iBeacons/Sensors?

Hi All, I'm semi-tech. & new to the community but figured I'd reach out, so please bear with me as I describe the following ask.Since last yr. I've been on the hunt for a small iOT sensor that based upon close proximity can be identified & actived via BLE without an attached app. Thought an Eddystone may work but purchased a few nRF51822 semiconductors but haven't tested them as yet & not sure if it's even the proper solution. I would need to program this beacon/sensor to launch a website, video on nearby cellphones. NFC works perfect but is extremely limited to only a 5cm range & requires an NFC capable device.I was told to try: "Perhaps the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ could work since it supports BLE and also has WiFi:https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-... "But I'll need something much smaller [see attached] & less costly per unit. I'm envisioning something no larger than a quarter & powered possibly by a watch battery. Do you think the nrf would suffice?Any suggestions I'm super open as well as just ideation. Thx in advance.

Topic by AxelFoley77 


Oculus GO - The little sideloading guide

It seems making an Instructable these days requires lots of pictures, detailed steps and tons of instructions.So before I try to paste my attempt here, I will point something out for the support team:1. There is little point in including pictures of a VR headset or how to plug a USB cable in. Same for images showing a DOS window and the command typed in it - they are the same as in the instructions...2. With little to no option to create an Instructable that requires actual code usage and properly embedded picture, let alone good editing options: How do you suggest one would accomplish this taks?3. With no category to post such Instrucables it is my personal opinion that these catergories need quite some updates! They are still the same as years ago despite life evolving around it...If you just went into the mobile VR world then you might feel a bit restricted compared to what you know from your smartphone.Over the months firmware updates provided us with some much needed things but a bit is still left out. In this Ible I will try to show way to get a bit more out of your GO. Be aware that a lot of it still requires a bit of manual work and a computer.If you are just curious then please read on and you might still find something interesting that you did not know yet.Getting started...One thing we certainly need is a way to access the GO and to install additional apps on it that are not available in the store.For this we need to activate the developer options. Unlike your normal Android device this step works only from the device you paired with your GO. Go into the settings and there look for the developer mode. Once you try to activate it Oculus requires you to sign up for a developer account. All this of course needs to be confirmed through Email activation, you know just to make it complicated and get more info about you ;) From there it is straight forward and like on any Android. Activate USB debugging, pair with your computer by USB cable and on the GO authorise the connection. Please also tick the box to make this permanent as otherwise you will be prompted every time. In case you are not so familiar with this just Google how to use ADB on Android - it is simple. I will add the required files and drivers in a later step dedicated to it.If you need more help getting the right options done or where to find them, please consider the great help for this offered on the Oculus developer sites. It makes sense to spent some time there as you find a lot of good info that might come in handy once you really want to get serious.ADB - A must have...You will find the drivers and all, as said, a bit later. ADB is the Android Debug Bridge. It allows us to get access to the (user)available file systems, do some basic tests and if supported even flash a firmware or make a backup.If you already used ADB for another Android device then you will only need the drivers for the GO. Otherwise you need to set up the enviroment for the Debug Bridge first. In the downloads will be a simple installer for this purpose. It is vital that you authorise your computer on the GO, best to tick the box to make it permanent.If you open a command prompt where you have ADB installed you can do some simple tests. Setting all required paths and system variables in Windows would allow you to access ADB functions from any folder on your computer. The later might be easier if you do not want to copy all related files into your ADB folder. Makes no real difference though and is up to your preferences.The command ADB devices should show you now that your GO is connected by listing it. If nothing shows up then please check the USB debugging option is set in the developer options. A reboot might help too in some cases. With this sorted we are good to go, almost at least...How to install "unknown" apps?As you might have noticed there is no playstore and all available stuff in the official store is VR based.Getting some essential apps on it seems to be impossible.Again the help offered by Oculus in the developer sections is a vital source, so please don't be afraid to read there ;) There are two basic ways of doing things on a device with so many restrictions.1. Just use ADB install packetname Where packetname is the filename for the app in question, for example Netflix.apk. With all apps you need in one place this is quickly done.2. Use a dedicated app installer or manager for the job. I will include one that actually works with the downloads. Same fore more detailed instructions.The thing is though that only apps designed and signed for VR will show up in your normal launcher. All other (supported) Android apps will show up in "unknown sources" in your library. Apps not supported for this purpose won't show anywhere! For them you need a dedicated launcher, which will be placed in the "unknown sources" section ;)Why do I spoon feed you here you might wonder? To be honest: If you already read some terms and basics it will be much easier to remember. Repetition is the key ;) I see little point in providing a simple to follow list of intructions as a week later you would struggle to do it again without the list in front of you.Our first unknown apps!Deciding what you might need in apps is one thing, knowing in what order you can safe hours of your life is another. I simply don't think you want to juggle with ADB whenever you want a new app that is not available in the official store. So for starters we will need something that is able to install apps for us. And since we can't use it without something to find and start it we also need an app starter. Basically like HALauncher for Android TV.The detailed instructions for this can be found with the downloads. First the app starter is installed, it will provide us with a living room like view onto a big screen. On the screen you will find all apps that are otherwise invisible to you. Some might tempt you to try them out - just don't! Unless you really know what you are doing you have a good chance to do something bad. Use the apps you know and the apps you added but none of the tempting system apps you might see.The APK installer will show up there too and is used to make installing apps a bit easier. You can copy them now onto your GO's internal storage and use the app installer to install them - how easy is that? Another option I included is the Aurora store - a fork of the YALP store and able to work without any playstore requirements. Downside is that the VR controllers are not fully supported yet as it is more aimed at TV sets. A BT touchpad works though if the controller or a gamepad fail. I only included Aurora as it could be a nice alternative one day with full VR support. Just search or browse for all the apps available in the playstore and install what you like. Be aware though that not everything will work with the remote. Some games and apps can be operated with a game controller though.It is getting nicer already ;)By now you might have already installed some things as you just could not wait to skip to the downloads.Well, can't really blame you, can I?Anyways, we now have the option to install more apps that we know from our non-VR Android devices. Oculus might make it harder in the future though - or they see it the same way and offer ready to go options one day. Till then it is up to you....Youtube VR might be nice but it is also still quite buggy and lacks some basic features. So getting a modded Youtube app could be a way out if you need comments for example. Kodi is still a must have for many Android users, especially the sport nuts with us. A filemanager is also something most Android users value. I will include some but again it comes down to what YOU prefer here. And with a basic way to install apps now you can also remove them again if you decide they don't work as expected.Get a bit used to the app launcher and how to install apps. Sideloading is fine for those used to it but some might prefer to just copy some apps on the GO and them use the installer with the remote. In the near future we will get support for external sorage, so using a USB stick or SD card in a reader will make the USB cable obsolete for file transfers. Some headsets already support it, so chances are by the time you read this yours will too. Although it still is a good way to keep your GO charged while copying big files ;)Precautions and Words of WisdomIt all sound nice and easy now but there are dangers you need to be aware of! Installing apps or games that are not fully designed for the GO or VR use can mean crashes. A lot will work but that does not mean it will keep doing so. A firmware update could one day end the support for sideloaded apps that are "non-VR". Especially messing with the app launcher can mean sudden disaster. Things you normally can not see are often hidden from you for a good reason. I will take no responsiblity for problems you caused by misusing system apps !Console emulators are a lot of fun and there are ways to even stream them from your PC in reasonable quality on a low end computer. But these and some demanding games also cause a lot of CPU usage. As the system is not optimised for 2D content it can mean that your battery runs out faster. In some cases you might not see the warning to charge, so be aware of time when immersing yourself.Stay away from any app or game that requires playstore components! Play Games for leaderboards might be no issue, especially if you don't need this feature. Online gaming like multiplayer actions will not work if it requires Google services for it! Similar story for hardware you don't have. If it is only designed for touchscreens than it might not work with the remote. And if it does not support gampads either... Apps that only support the wrong display orientation are a no go too.What Non-VR Stuff Actually Works on the GO?A lot and it will be possible to do even more. There are already streaming options for your own videos like Skybox, Moonplayer and they all support DLNA servers too. So watching normal, 3D or VR movies from a media server is no problem at all already. Getting games to work is another story all up. ALVR is a good platform to stream VR games from your PC to the GO. Unlike the Rift you won't even need an overpowered gaming PC for it. Virtual Desktop is a paid app but well worth the money if the support and features keep going as they do right now. With it you can use your computer or laptop from the GO. Watch movies, surf the net, play games. The GO more or less becomes a normal Windows computer only that you have the screen right in front of you.It will certainly be possible to code a simple VR app that works as a shortcut for non-VR apps. Like how right now you get the pic and description for a VR exerience and a button that starts the stream in the player. Downside is the requirement to certify such an "app" to make it visible in the normal launcher.Downloads and Instructions....Finally you get to the point where you can actually download something :)To make it all a bit easier and to ensure I won't miss a vital bit I did a factory reset on my GO to start from scratch :(Things might change in the future, so I will include the instructions as texfiles with the download.If I see a real requirement for screenshots I will include them with corresponding filenames.I think this way it is easier than scrolling through an Instructable as you can just print it all directly.Those without an account (yet) might value this too.Based on the feedback, questions and general comments I will change the contents of the download accordingly.Same for download links to avoid bloating up the download with outdated files.Easier for you (if you read this a few months from now) to download the newest files directly from the source.So don't be too disappointed if the download seems to contain less than what you expected.What seems to be missing will have links in the instructions.No files will come from unverified or unsecure sources!Whatever I include in the downloads directly will be checked for malware of all kinds.The same standards are true for the sources I provide.So no clickbait, ad sponsored re-directors or such crap.Please read the detailed instructions carefully, then read them again while actuall following the steps on your GO or computer.Do not blindly read it and jump onto doing it the first read!For ADB commands just copy and paste them - I might write some batch files though, so check for them in the instructions and make use of them.Things might not work out as planned, so if in doubt double check all the steps taken.What is in the provided instructions is tested on my GO's and works on the firmware version current of this writing.Download the guide and files from FilefactoryIn case the PDF in the download is not detailed enough, just ask in the comments ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


I need an air moisture meter and possibly a thermometer in one.

Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.

Topic by PavelA12   |  last reply


Site updates, upcoming changes and developments

As it seems the support team is still working hard to improve this ection I would like to take the opportunity to provide a base for everyone.Users can post bugs they find, feedback or suggestions for features they would like to see or have here.The support team could be so nice to keep us updated about what is planned and when to expect some problems or hick ups.Maybe even a list of things already in the planning for us.There is already a quite long list of requests that grew over the years, so maybe the support team could start the conversation with some infos? ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Replies for questions and topics still not working

I tried for about half an hour to answer some questions but gave up due to being unable to enter any text.Logging out and back did not help, same for a reboot.Guess I am not the only one trying to answer things to no avail....And by the way: Do we get a fix for the useless categories?Fail to see the point of selecting a catergory and channel if nothing ever appears in said areas...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Medical Device. Cash Compensation

Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Possible prototype for a Medical Device. Cash Compensation. I am in Toronto. Not a scam.

Topic by dnicol1   |  last reply


Concrete propane grill - Heat issues?

I'll be making a concrete counter top for my outdoor kitchen. I'll shape a "box" in the concrete (just like a concrete sink), and build the propane burners into that. Will I run into any heat issues with the concrete? Should I line it with something to shield it from heat?

Topic by DenMike99   |  last reply


How to convert 120VAC to 90VDC @ .5amps?

Hello, I'm looking for a circuit the will convert 120VAC to about 90 VDC at .5 amps. If anyone could suggest a schematic or point me in the right direction of one that would much appreciated!

Topic by bigjohn412   |  last reply


Cyclists....

Just for fun this time!We all love bycicles.Enjoy nature, loose some kilos or just having some fun with the kids.I even like to ride if I find the time and the right weather.But what about those courier riders in the city?Those fitness fanatics riding in a pack of 30 and surprising you on a winding mountain road by fully blocking it...The guy hitting you from behind on the traffic lights because he was only looking on his phone...Or maybe this drunk guy in the middle of the night not even realising that he uses the entire road...What is your worst nighmare experience with someone using just legs to get two wheels moving?And: What is your worst nightmare experience as a cyclist yourself?The guy cutting you off while turning and running over your bike?Someone "accidentally" opening their door when you ride past their car?Or maybe these parks constantly blocking the bike lanes and forcing you to go into the traffic?

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Chinese laser cutter repair

Anyone in Boston area able to provide or know of a source for service for these chinese made machines. We are a public high school, with an 8 thousand dollar 80 watt co2 paper weight.

Topic by GeorgeF83   |  last reply


How to harness the energy in snow

I found a thread that asked this question previously on instructables but the author wanted to harness the kinetic energy of falling snow, and many of the criticisms involved the unpredictability of when snow will fall.I am specifically curious if it is possible to create a machine to remove snow that uses the energy of the snow itself. Ideally, it would melt the snow and use the water or steam to power itself.The things Canadian winters do to the mind...

Topic by shareefhadid   |  last reply


Old Tv Speakers and Subwoofers

I have an old sansui tv, but ijust want to use its 2 speakers and 2 subwoofers, i means to convert it to only sound system, please help

Topic by dpokharna   |  last reply


ionocraft

For those that know (or those that frequent Google's everchanging homepage) today is Tesla's birthday. Just typing in his name into the instructables search brings up loads of Tesla coils but not much else. Some research into some of his other (lesser known/theoretical) inventions uncovered an idea for an ionocraft, a silent flying craft with no moving parts powered by high voltage. (not the place to debate the origin of the invention, Major de Seversky is credited as the inventor of the ionocraft, I am just regurgitating a thought I had while reading on Tesla)A quick search reveals that not only is it possible to build these simple machines, high school kids build them as science fair projects! Although fascinating, this project is outside the realm of my ability for now (read: until my brain grows). Anyone with an inkling?Seeing how there's no end to dangerous instructables, what's one more? (I'll even go the next step and provide you with some plans)

Topic by mikeasaurus   |  last reply


Electric bike motor help!

Helli guys.. after a long time racing motocross, I would like to experiment into doing an electric dirt bike for myself.. My plan is to find an 85 or 125cc frame with no engine, and build from that.. the biggest question is, what motor could I use that is no less than 15kw, and on the affordable side? I was looking at the Turnigy Rotomax 150cc eqiv. And it has a max power output at 9000 something watts, would that be any good for a motocross bike? Would it burn out quickly since its pretty small? Notes: i am strictly looking for powerful bikes, a 2kw bike is not for me since I am used to overpowered 250cc two stroke hell-born suicide machines, thanks..

Topic by dsirotic   |  last reply


Hp or Gateway Laptop?

I want a laptop but there are about 2 that are neck-and-neck in my decision.There's this HP which i really like its design and appearance and also the hardware inside it.http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9720310#And Then there's this Gateway which has a tiny bit of more parts like a different graphics card, larger hard drive, built in webcam, and lightscribe (not really concerned about these parts).http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8771297&type;=product&id;=1203815723402And I'm pretty sure i want the HP (more trusted brand in my opinion), but i just want a second opinion.

Topic by Caveman477   |  last reply


Getting help for an instructable

How do I get help if I am trying to build what the instructable is explaining and the creator of it is not answering?https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Project-Benc...Could someone else answer my questions?

Topic by fletch2770   |  last reply


Arduino

Looking for someone to write an arduino sketch for a stepper motor driven XY table Only looking for a basic, simple code Willing to pay but willing to accept volunteers also :)  Thanks!

Topic by PhillipF9   |  last reply


Cleaning the oil for a vacuum pump

Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Trying to make a turret with stepper motors, limit switches, and a joystick. I would like some help if possible

Making a turret that runs on four stepper motors to turn it 360 degrees. than one stepper to tilt the gun up and down, which has 2 limit switches and has a door lock actuator to fire the gun. all of this ruins on a 4 position joys-tic with a button to fire. trying to have this run on an Arduino Uno if possible. would need help coding and figuring out the wiring

Topic by Sweetcorn_18 


Ducted vacuum cleaner anyone?

My sister approached me today with the news that her vacuum cleaner went up in smoke.While cleaning out the old rental and with the aim to clean the new home during the next few days.This made me thinking about the the ducted vacuum system that were quite popular around here.Most modern house won't get something like that and for the older ones it means once they fail they stay dead.After all the tenant can buy a vacuum cleaner to clean the carpets...Anyways...I had a look around here and in other places to check on home made solutions of the more modern type.As my sister is allowed some DIY to improve the quite old house I was wondering about installing a ducted vacuum system.Of course there is not much out there, commercially, that would be up to our modern times.Far too noisy, lack of sucktion and despite all totally outdated filter systems that won't keep the turbine or motor clean.Some people however came up with quite clever ideas.For example building your own cyclonic shop vac.Another one I quite liked was was a home made housing for standard drum type shop vac.Apart from the air noise the thing was almost silent.No screaming motor, no outcoming air acting as a funnel for the noise create.The air going in and through the hose was louder then the actual vacuum cleaner LOLI would like to create something similar by salvaging a proper shop vac as a bas for the sucking part.But as it is an old house I would really like a wooden solution to entire housing and casing problem.Not just a screaming thing mounted to the outside of the house....Far less noisy than the donor, cyclonic (proper) seperator and easy to empty.Like place a bag under it and open the bottom easy.Something originally intended for inside use might be weatherproved or placed in a properly covered area if required.Any ideas for the wooden part apart from starting from scratch with 3D models?Anyone here done something similar and willing to provide some feedback on how well it all performs?

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Wanting to design a cree led powered dock rechargeable torch running on 18650 cells

Hi all, I had an idea the other day that it would be very useful to have a powerful torch in my van that is kept charging in a dock all the time (as required at least) when the engine is running.I know I can get similar torches that charge via a USB cable, and that I could plug the cable into a cigarette lighter socket etc, but what I would like to do is as follows:Power from a 12v (ignition switched) source in vehicle, to a charging dock.Torch must be powered by 18650 lithium-ion cells (2 ideally).Torch would run a cree (or cree style) powerful LED chip/diode (maybe up to 10w arbitrary power).Torch does not need to have a wire plugged into it, but can be simply placed into the dock after use in order to resume charging. The connector for charging is not important but likely a jackplug type arrangement, or else spring terminals.Housing will be 3D printed, and using a lens from an existing torch (probably).So mostly I'm happy about making and designing this, except that I'm not certain about what setup (either the circuit design if bespoke or what off the shelf module etc) I should use for taking 12v to charge 2x 18650 cells in situ.I have got small USB charging modules already, and I have things like voltage boosters/reducers, and tons of electronic components, but the USB charge module is no use for using with a 12v supply etc, so I'm not sure how to best address this part of the project.If anyone has suggestions on good ways to accomplish this I'd be really grateful, thanks!

Topic by Mr Joshua   |  last reply


'Car FM transmitter to spy bug'

Hello, i am looking for some tips on how to transform an FM mp3 transmitter to a spy bug.. i have that transmitter you plug into the lighter in your car, put an aux cable or an usb in it, and it then trasmits to a set frequency so you can tune in with your radio.. i was wondering would it be possible to just get rid of the jack, and solder a microphone instead? If not, how would I go around that?

Topic by dsirotic   |  last reply


Unusual uses for coffee machine cleaner or delimer/descaler

Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


How do I unsubscribe to instructable emails? I have updated settings but I do not want any emails and they keep coming.

Help me to unsubscribe from the emails I get from Instructables.  There is no unsubscribe button on the emails and I updated my profile deleting all email updates but I'm still getting emails... Help. 

Topic by ClassicStyle   |  last reply


Raspberry Pi: Launch Python Script on Startup

Hello sir, Running Python script at boot works fine with crontab, only thing is that I am stuck to it. How to come out of it ?How to stop it. Cntr+C does not work

Topic by dgkanade72   |  last reply


Display issue for edited IBLE

I added a step in the middle of a published IBLE, and the step shows fine in the editing screen. When I go to the IBLE, the pictures are in the right order, but the text is missing from the new step and all of the text for the steps are now out of sync from that point forward. Is there a way to correct this?

Topic by Lorddrake   |  last reply


Ever heard of Ceramicrete, MgO cement, Magnesium cement

Has anyone ever worked with MgO cement?  Where can buy it in US? MgO replaces the Ca found in portland cement. MgO cement makes a concrete that will incorporate cellulose and other organics into the crystalline structure. absorbs CO2 instead of generating it, is an order of magnitude stronger than portland, does not require wetting, and cures in minutes. So basically, you can take some burlap or old blanket and paint this stuff on, then fill the void with straw and cement and make super strong, light and thin structures. I have looked for it locally but it does not seem to be available to consumers in the US, probably because of the lack of sheep crap which is the typical source of Mg. It is amazing stuff. This is pretty much the only article I could find about the stuff: http://greenhomebuilding.com/articles/ceramicrete.htm

Topic by bsims1   |  last reply