Arduino Outdoor Security System - PIR Motion Sensor, Security Lights, Intruder Warning/Alarm & Blynk Notification

I would like to ask your suggestions on how to build an outdoor ESP2866 security and sensors combo. I have seen separate postings on PIR and lights around the site and in other websites so I thought it would be doable. I knew Arduino then but only paid close attention when I realized that my x-10s are outmoded but z-wave devices are expensive. So I am learning about it, how to sketch and trying to understand C++ more. My dream is to build an outdoor ESP2866 combo, powered by an AC120v-5v module, with two PIR motion sensors, three 120v relay switches (two relays for two sets of security floodlights and one relay for an amp/wave speaker with mic), a photo (dusk/dawn) sensor and temperature/humidity sensor (for a future thermostat). Operationally, I imagine that it could be armed and disarmed through Blynk. When armed at daytime, a motion will trigger a low volume intruder MP3 warning alert with 10 minutes of security lights at night. But if the trigger persists for more than 5 minutes, the security floodlights will blink, a loud intruder alarm will sound and push phone notifications. What will be the best way to sketch these? What is the better way of wiring them together? How could I make multiple ESP2866s in the same WAN work together for an event? The desired function is if an alarm event is triggered in one of the ESP2866 that would also set off blinking lights and alarm sounds in the other ESPs. Thanks for all your help.

Topic by EeA2 1 year ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


Bug, Suggestion, Feedback! Community sections

Since there is no place for it right now I just created a topic for the purpose of collecting bugs we find.Let me start with a little list I collected so far:1. Confusion!When I create a new topic I need to select a category and channel.So where exactly are these categories and channels?Somehow I struggle to find them anywhere else than in the two drop down menus when creating a new topic.If we have all those drop down options then why can't we make proper use of them?2. List problems!I know there is planned work on the way we see the cummunity section but still...When I create a new topic then it seems to be nowhere.I check again a few hours later and still nowhere.Next day often the same storey.Where does a new topic go and when does it appear in the community section?3. Sorting - this one is already being worked on I guess.We really need a working option to sort postings and replies by time and date and relation.I get notified about a reply and check...Hmm, about 80 replies and somehwere, someone wrote something new...Good if you can copy and past a part of the preview to search for it in the browser manually...Comfort and logic is needed to replace the current confusion and inconsistences.As for suggestions to get the section up to what what both developers and users turn into happy campers:1. Editing options!!!For years this is my number one that not just got more and more ignored but also reduced to nothing.Anyone creating a topic should have direct control over it.This means beain able to create the post in a way the poster sees fit for the purpose.The basic text editing options any Vbulletin or PhPBB board would offer should be available here in a similar way.Embedded text and images in the size and place that fits - either by posters choice for the size on the screen or by providing a fixed sized preview that opens a fullsie view when clicking on it.Code is more important these days than back then when I first asked for option to embed it here.Tags are useful for a lot of things.Add a quote from a previous post or reply, add a code window that allows proper copy and past action for both poster and reader (preferably with highlighted syntax like in Notepadd++, ....You can only provide dedicated help if you have the right tools for it.And you can not ask for dedicated help if you can even properly post the problem due to restrictions and limitations in the editing system.Coloered text, other than for code is not really required but all the basics anyone knows froma real forum would be a great addition.2. Tagging or otherserwise highlighting the areas of the topic.If I already create a post in the technology section than it would only make sense to see a corresponding icon next to the topic in the community section.Same for coding help, mechanical problems and so on.The current sections and categories are outdated and a lot of things are missing.Mabye not in terms of Intructables but certainly for the community sections.3. Structure....Currently it is all one big blob and not even the sorting works (yet).This is perfect for people like me wanting to quickly check if something new was posted but not so good for someone trying to have some fun browsing.Imagine you want to spend some quality time checking what problems people have or what help they seek when it comes to woodworking.No search options, no list options, no categories to explore.Back in the day we had a few sections and a basic sorting option, like by most recent.Someone only interested in helping with coding on Arduino wouldn't even bother here and move on.On the other hand, people with no clue how to fully specify their problem might find a solution just by browsing through the corresponding section.4. Linking Instructables....I don't know the reason for it or the idea behind it but why again is the question section filled with Instructables?And why look lot of Tips like Instructables?I mean if it is for the user to find stuff than it might bind him on the website, but I doubt it will be satisfactory for the user.Questions or tips in regards to an Instrubale should be there- with the Instructable but not in the community section.Add it a tab for the Ible instead...I see little to no point in answering to a question someone has in regards to a specific Ible unless "I made it"....5. Voting and closing...When it comes to forums then one thing all have in common: bloat.People only register to post something but never come back.Topics are solved, done and dusted.Topics gone dormant for months or even years.Great answers or vital details get lost.The list goes on....What it comes down to is that order needs to be restored and maintained.Open an archive section and start moving out.Topics of certain age and with no new replies - gone.Topics where the user never again logged in - gone.Topics voted or request to be closed, closed or gone to the ariche as well.Topics voted to be of general interest pinned somewhere for easy reference - like this one ;)A thread starter got his answer and is happy? Then for crying out loud let him vote or credit the best answer and close the topic.More than three people voted or tagged a topic as useless, not possible or similar - close it so it can one day go in the archive section too.All this and more should create a community section that once again can become an active playground for everyone.A place to seek and find help.And who knows, maybe some of the good old guys might even consider a return and more time spent here....

Topic by Downunder35m 6 months ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


DIY Scuba Tank (breath underwater)

I need some advice. I have a great idea that would be amazing if it worked. I want a small scuba/air tank whatever you want to call it (like a scuba secondary tank or a paintball co2 tank) that i can use to mess around with in a pool. I dont want to be constantly breathing, just enough to take a deep breath, go underwater and hold it for a minute, release air from the tank-take a breath, hold it, take another breath from the tank, hold it, and so on. Just enough to get a few breaths and be under water to last me for 5 or 10 minutes. The only thing is i dont want to have to fill it at a dive shop or from a tank that has to be filled at a dive shop like scuba secondary tanks. i want to rig it to fit a bike pump (which probably will not have enough psi to get the amount of air i want) or my air compressor. So i would like advice and also would i need an air regulator since im not constantly breathing? what could i use as a regulator if i need one at all? 

Topic by wdemarche 4 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


Washing machine door won't open - possible solutions!

If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.

Topic by Downunder35m 5 months ago


Oops! We couldn't understand your request

I finished editing my instruct-able and when i try to publish after changing the thumbnail it gives the error that is showed in the pic attached.  I have tried multiple times but its giving the same error. OS : Windows 10 Enterprise x64 Browser : Chrome Version 54.0.2840.99 m (64-bit) Have tried attaching the image here using the new and old uploader but it isnt attaching too :/ Here what the error message states Oops! We couldn't understand your request. Please contact us to tell us as much detail as possible about what you were trying to do when this happened

Topic by Diy Tech 2 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


How do you make Sanding Sealer / Grain Filler?

Hello there :) This is my first forum post so please be gentle ;) Okay, here's the skinny. I am doing a zakk wylde paint job on my stagg strat. I've removed all the paint and sanded it down. But I have some scratches on it (from the sanding) and a few places where I went in too deep with the sandpaper and removed some of the old sanding sealer. So, I need some sanding sealer / grain filler in order to make it a nice smooth surface so I can apply primer to it. Here's the problem. I live in a country where there is ABSOLUTELY NO DEMAND for sanding sealer / grain filler. So there is nothing like that in Bulgaria. And I need to know how I can make my own. (all of the carpenters here sand it and put on some lacquer and it's an awful finish but that's how it is here) Sooo, can any1 please help mee.... :) I really need something that is a good substitute of grain filler / sanding sealer.

Topic by tednet 10 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


signals for Model railways

I made the signal. I will show it soon.

Topic by paul Fast post 3 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


Publisher won't recognize keywords, so won't publish

No matter what I put in the "keywords" field, I get the "Please add keywords" error. Same using XP with Chrome, or Win10 and Edge. See attached screen capture.

Topic by DconBlueZ 2 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


Iron Man's Repulsors

How would you build iron mans repulsors? I have some already...     You could use a transducer for particle displacement, you might be able to send an ion beam through a "tunnel" of a heavier particle, since it can't travel fast in air. I need ideas! Thanks, Laserbeamtoast.

Topic by Laserbeamtoast 5 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Specific replacement wire to use for battery-pack?

Hi all,after finding an old etchingpen and opening it up to (see picture)needless to say i need to replace the coil-wire. is there a specific or special material to use here? i assume i can't just use any wire...i'm an electric-noob, so please be clear and don't use to much specific termonology - i probably won't understand! :PThnxz in adance

Topic by Brian M V 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


How do I share a Preview of a Draft?

I would like to share a preview of a Draft that I am working on, but can't find a way to do that anymore.

Topic by KurtRoesener 1 year ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


5v to 12v convert

Hello, I want to connect a portable solar powered rechargeable to 2 DC fans of 12v to cool my car. 1. I have 2 options of portable solar powered: (A) 1500mAh, outputs: 5.5V / 800mA (B) 2000mAh, outputs: 5V 500mA     which one is preffered to connect to those PC fans? 2. most of the PC fans are working at 12v. I don't quite sure if I'll build simple 5v to 12v regulator it will works and produce enough airflow. Thanks.

Topic by ashakif 7 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Staying motivated to complete a projects . . thoughts?

We've all been there, and I'm right there currently with a specific project:I was excited at first and started making this thing, and about midway through I've lost complete interest in the project and am struggling with motivation to finish it!For me, the contests here on Instructables were a great motivator with specific deadlines that always kept me motivated . . . but I work here now and cannot participate in them ; )When I lose interest in a project, it's often because the intriguing creative challenges have all been solved, but the project isn't yet completed. However I'm ready to move on to the next thing . . so the half-finished projects keep piling up. I've found that I'm far more interested in the active problem-solving process that "making" provides, than in actually producing completed things. It's an odd dilemma, and maybe I'm not alone in this. Do you experience this same mid-project disinterest? Aside from deadlines, what do you do to stay motivated to complete projects once the interest begins to dissipate?I'd love to hear my fellow Instructables authors' thoughts. Let's have a conversation!

Topic by seamster 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Need help selecting a small motor for moving a small rig back and forth left-to-right only about 1 inch.

I have never worked with motors before, and I am starting to realize that there are dozens if not hundreds of different types of motors. Imagine two 6" long, 1/2" dia. aluminum rods suspended between two pieces or trapezoidal shaped plywood that are secured to a base and braced to make this whole structure rigid. on these two aluminum rods "rides" a small carriage that is literally just a small 2" x 2" platform made from... whatever... 1/4" plywood. This carriage can slide left and right on these two aluminum rods. I need a motor that can somehow move this little platform left and right, back and forth, only between 1/8" to 1". I need to be able to control the speed (rate) at which is travels this small distance.I also need to be able to control the starting point and the end (return) point. Basically, I and transferring string from one spool to another. So the platform will have a spool of thread on it, and it will be going left-to-right while another spool is turning. The left-to-right movement will be coordinated with the speed that the second spool is wrapping (turning) so that the thread windes as close to "perfectly" in layers. And each spool will be between 1/8 - 1/4 - up to 1" wide. This is why I need to be able to set the starting point, and the end point where it will stop and reverse direction. I will be controlling this with a project board like an Arduino. I just need to know what kind of motor to look for, and any other suggestionsThanks guys!

Topic by Dolmetscher007 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Does anyone know a way to sense the temperature of perspex sheet?

I have a project in which I need to know the temperature of the perspex in a perspex sheet (so I can control aforesaid temperature). The Temperature sensors I know (TMP35-TO92) are okay for getting atmospheric temperature but no good for this.Has anyone a solution to the problem?Thanks

Topic by vagulus 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


The little guide to buying on Ebay

Like or not Ebay is now the number one online market place.Since they do their best to keep it that way a few tips might be of use to someone.Unlike some other guides this one is not about how to find the best bargain.It is about showing some things you should be aware of, especially if you are new Ebay.1. New, unused, refurbished....These three can literally mean anything if you find them in a listing title.Unless you read the full description you simply don't know.Assuming the listing goes along with the title.New should mean exacty that: Same condition as you would find in any retail store.Unused can be the same but could also mean it was opened, like to check it or take the pictures.Refurbished is something to take with caution.Unless it clearly states Manufacturer refurbished you just don't know if the refurbishing is done to specs.For a phone it could mean a badly glued screen, a no name battery, non matching serial numbers...Unless an item is factory sealed you should expect detailed pictures.In a lot of categories you will only find generic pictures though - buyer beware!2. Warranties....Ebay does have a buyer protection but Ebay does not deal with Manufacturer warranties in any way!In some countries a seller is legally required to provide a warranty and return statement.Sadly that is not the case in all countries Ebay serves.When it comes to brand new devices you might experience problems with your warranty.As more and more companies go against online selling platforms they do not support they simply exclude them from a warranty.Let me give you an example for this one:You see your favourite smartphone at your local retailer for the bargain of just under $1600, while on Ebay you find the exact same model for $1200.Easy choice? Depends...If the manufacturer does not support this then only the seller can provide you with some sort or warranty.The good one claim to do so but don't expcet this from someone only selling a handful of items per year.In the worst case it could mean your new gadget develops a fault over time that would be fully covered by a manufacturer warranty but you would totally miss out.The money is gone and you have to fix it at your own cost.If the item in question is also of value then please check the warraty and return conditions the manufacturer allows before buying.4. Pricing....Especially when it comes to things that somehow could be bundled or used with something else you can get screwed.The culprit i question is the multi-item-listing.You might look for a battery pack to keep your phone charged when on long hiking trips.But the first 50 or so listings are all in the lowest imaginable price range.The listing title shows what you are looking for, the image does too....Then you dare to check and it is a listing where you can select multipl items.The price shown in the search result is only for the lowest crap listed there, like a "waterproof usb plug"....The actual thing you need is usually overpriced.You are forced to either ignore suspiciously low priced listings or check them all to compare prices.5. Postage costs....A lot of things these days come with free shipping, all good.If they don't then again: Buyer beware!Sometimes there are exclusions, like certain post code areas.Or the free shipping is not for international customers.If it is clear you have to pay shipping and you buy only a single item then again the case is quite obvious.Combined shipping however does not always mean single costs!Check the psotage options for multi items carefully!Often additionalitems are free if they are small.But if a seller already charges you a high postage fee than chance are you pay the exact same price again for the second - even if the arrive in a single $2 prepaid envelope.6. Faked locations....It seems to be common with Chinese sellers to avoid import taxes by faking a local item a selling address.In some cases (often after Ebay got too many buyer complaints) they list the real shipping time of 2-3 weeks.More often however they don't.Once you have the problem the best option is to open a "item not received" claim 3 days after it was due.On the due date contact the seller and ask when to expect it.There is a way to spot these fakes and tax frauds:If a local seller, with a locally listed item gives you a Chinese Paypal account with an address in China than you got a fraudster.Problem is that once you committed to buying and can see the sellers account details it is already too late.To cancel such a transaction you need to do it the official way and if the seller won't agree then don't expect Ebay to accept that you don't want to suppport tax evasion and fraud.Either way, I report each and every single one seller showing a local item with a local selling addrees but using a Chinese Paypal account.7. Fraudulent listings and sellers....Let me give you a slightly overstated example on what I mean:Seller has only sold a very few items, usually of low value.Suddenly you spot y nice and this years model laptop at a bargain price.You check the listing closer and find just 2 or 3 pics.Further down you read something along the lines "Unwanted gift, comes with car charger only."If it is this years model then it is still under warranty and no one would lose all the additional hardware like the wall charger. ;)Again it is up to the buyer to decide....Ebay does not check where an item comes from or if the seller is the legitimate owner of it.8. Exclusions to make...Be it price, auction only, distance and so on.You can make certain limitation and selections to narrow your search results.Some make sense and work, like just showing items to auction.Distance no longer really works as sellers are no longer required to state a town or post(zip) code anymore.Price is relative too.If you know the ting you need definately costs between $100 and $130 then the search still won't filer anything out that is a multi item listing and within the price range.And in some cases it just totally fails.A very vital exclusion was removed around 2014: by country.Now all that is left is to limit to all within your home country.You can't select for example Japan only if you are located in Europe and would like to avoid the rediculous postage costs from the US.And you could not exclude China either...All or local is what you can play with.For the rest that is available: use it whenever it make sense and is possible.9. You buy it - your problem!No I don't mean faulty items or wrong ones.I mean simple things that can happen to anyone distracted, unconcentrated or too full of exitement.You buy something and think you are the happiest guy in the world until you double check the listing to confirm your luck.Missed the over $300 in postage ocsts?Did not see further down that it states "replica" or "scale model"?Or hints that the massive sized Opal in fact is just a resin with a thin and cheap layer of Opal flakes on a black background?As said, your problem alone.I know a lot of people who started having fun on Ebay until they got their gib bargain surprice - one way or the other.Don't become one of them and read and check listing you might want to buy with great care!10. Feedback...You might have noticed that it is next to impossible to find a seller with a feedback rating below 90%.The reason is quite simple: The lower your ratings as a seller the further down the search results you appear.And of course you don't make any business anymore once so low...But feedback you leave is as important as feedback you get!So if you spot a deal where the seller has a rating below the magic 99.5% positive rating you should check his feedback.Quite often it is clear that some angry customer left it.Most obvious if the seller left a reply stating otherwise.But in some case you more than one buyer left a negative feedback for the same reason as other buyers - this is where you should be careful.The reason to actually check the feedback is quite simple: It is heavily manipulated by Ebay.A seller won't get and negative feedback if he agreed to replace the item in question or if he offers a refund.Same for simply stating that a negative feedback was not justified.The later can be anything from the words used to just wanting a clean sleeve.And if a seller is highly active than business rules and the feedback is corrected by Ebay.You might have noticed that for some sellers now now new negative feedback show up that would be of any real concern for a potential buyer...11. Retractions :(Be it a seller not wanting to sell something that auctioned off below his expectations or a buyer who simply failed to pay attention to the price and all details : A retraction is possible.If you try a lot of auctions you might have had the "second chance offer".After you lost an auction you might get notified that the winning bid was retracted and that you are next in line.In almost all cases your last bid will be accepted but some sellers offer you the item for what the rectracted bid was - so pay attention to details!Now you might think that if happens so often you could make good use of it.Like for example participating in several autions to try to win the device one way or the other.Set some sutomatic bids and go to bed.If lucky you got one, if too lucky you won all auctions.Retracting your bid on those you now no longer need is possible but I strongly advise against it!Firstly you can negative feedback from the seller for it and secondly Ebay will keep you under watch if it happens too often.An honest mistake and all is fine but ask for a retraction a few times a month and you will have a hard time on Ebay.In the worst case Ebay can even suspend your account or exclude you from auctions.So, is it still worth signing up and trying to find a bargain?IMHO it all depends on WHAT you are looking for.Someone in a remote area of Brazil will certainly value it differently than someone living downtown L.A. with access to all sorts of shops, retailers and outlets onevery corner.Same for spare parts, electronic parts or stuff that is made in China anyways.But times have changed for sure.What started free for everyone became a paid platform for those who sell.Later those buying also had to pay extra as still all transactions come with fees on the side of Paypal.Not much to be fair but still...And from a platform with a few scammers and frudsters that always got and kept your money we came to something flooded by sellers that should not even be allowed to have a Paypal account.The buyer protection helps in some way but it can take weeks to get your money back and if it something expensive than this money makes interest for someone else while you don't have to buy what you wanted to buy.While, in a real shop you just go back and return your item to get your money back - plus you get a real warranty.Do your homework and be aware of what could go wrong.If it looks like it could go wrong somewhere than you might want to consider a deffierent option for this item.

Topic by Downunder35m 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Converting a Radio Flyer Classic Trike to an e-Trike

Hi. I've been looking at the Radio Flyer Classic trike for kids and realise it would be the ideal project to convert into an e-trike . Would welcome recommendations and best practice to do this . Component -wise , most important to consider ( slimline battery shape , throttle ( reverse feature) , fixed drive shaft ), front fixed foot holder. This would be my first project on Instructables and would love to document and share based on best feedback options adopted . Thanks!

Topic by greenwichmytime 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


What can be the problem with this circuit?

I built this Opto Sensitive Dimmer's dimmer part first just one led the Orange is light. but can be the problem? I built this on a test board so sorry for the soldering.

Topic by bothbence62 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Recommendations for lipo cutoff device

I've been looking for a device similar to a battery alarm for 4s lipos that can cut off the power when any one of the cells drops below a certain voltage instead of just sounding an alarm, i've been told that i can get a bms circuit which should be able to do this and that i should try to find the best one i can but i don't really know exactly what to search for. can someone recommend a small and affordable bms please? i won't be charging through it as i have a separate balance charger, i want it purely as a cut off device for when the batteries are in use...

Topic by ambientvoid 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Microsoft Photodraw - does anyone use it any more?

I have Photodraw 2000 on my computer from several years ago - I copied it onto my newer computer and I use it all the time to add text, borders or effects and to correct old photos or erase backgrounds.  I use my photos for various purposes, for teaching and family use, so it's good to be able to do lots of things with the photos in just one simple program I love Photodraw- it has so many uses and is easy to use. I never got the hang of using layers as in paint.net (which I've tried ) and Photoshop (which seems so expensive and complex). Does anyone else still use Photodraw or am I hanging on to a dinosaur here?

Topic by Puzzledd 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


How do you make your own cream of coconut?

Hey all! I live in provincial France, where it is virtually impossible to find Coco Lopez for piña coladas and other uses. I've tried several times to concoct my own, using sugar/corn syrup/other sweetener in combination with coconut milk, creamed coconut, and processed fresh coconut, but I am not getting satisfactory results. I can usually tweak the mixed piña to make it acceptable if it is drunk right away, but now I'm faced with the need to get my hands on some cream of coconut for a coconut cake recipe I'd like to try out. IMPORTANT:  I need to know how to make the equivalent of Coco Lopez, which is "cream of coconut" and is not the same as coconut cream or creamed coconut. If anyone knows the secret, please share! Even for people who can buy Coco Lopez whenever they want, it would be fun to have a DIY version of this tasty product using fresh (or at least, not so highly processed) ingredients with no weird additives. Thanks.

Topic by CherryPie 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Adding USB storage to Bluetooth device?

Hey diyers, I am looking for info. I recently picked up a mini Bluetooth keyboard/mouse combo. I got it for retro gaming. I was wondering if it were possible to add USB storage inside the keyboard and transmit the data via Bluetooth. Thinking I could use it to store save files so I have them no matter what PC I play on

Topic by turnafraze 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


what paintball gun do you have

What paintball gun do you have?

Topic by nerfer192 11 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


coverting 24volt rechargeable lawn mower to use direct AC wired connection.

I am not able to start a gas mower and so I utilize a very old electric mower. A friend gave me a black n decker rechargeable 24 volt lawn mower, no "key" and no charger.  I was pondering putting an AC/DC power converter on the mower body and then using an extension cord to power mower. But concerned about running motor direct from converter. I would of course by pass the battery pack and go direct to motor because there are always warnings about not running an appliance while charging. So thinking along these line took cover off motor body and off the wiring in the handle.  Upon inspection except for the wires going to the batteries from the motor, the motor itself looks like the electric motor in my old direct electric lawn mower! My question is: Would it be possible to directly wire AC power to the motor of this DC powered motor? I am not an electrician but understand some basic principles. After reviewing specs on B & D's webs site know that there is some type of inverter built into the battery pack. I'm assuming it is to convert AC to DC for charging them. Could I wire directly to it then to motor and not use the batteries? I survive on a very low fixed income and can not afford to buy a replacement charger and needed "key" (connects wires to make it run). I do have wire and soldier and a desire to make it work. Any advise would truly be welcomed.  Otherwise I will proceed with my inkling of an idea and tell you how it goes or not! thank you.

Topic by nitajayne 5 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Very old and New topics getting mixed up

We are still getting very old topics (questions) and the newer ones mixed together.

Topic by rickharris 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Vertical Axis Wind Turbine - What is the best airfoil?

I've always been interested in windmills. The vertical axis wind turbine (VAWT) seem really cool. I discovered there is a company that (under contract) assembles them right here in my state of Michigan. So, on our summer vacation last year I diverted the family unit over to the assembly plant to see what's new, and exciting. Well, guess what, the plant is closed on weekend. Who knew. Well, for one, Momma thought I should have. Oh well, we got to see their demo unit Windspire up close anyway. It was just whipping. Anyway, to my question, if I wanted to build a really efficient VAWT, what would be the best shape for the airfoil? I've attached an old patent I found that has a drawing (Patent 4247252). I copied the drawing into Inkscape and redrew the airfoil using bezel curves. But, is this the best shape to start with? I'm hoping some aeronautical engineer out there can comment. Thanks, Jim

Topic by jimk3038 9 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


"dry box" for drying clothes in humid weather

Hi all,I'm thinking of building something helping me to dry my laundry in the amazingly wet weather that I'm getting in the place I live now.I searched instructables for a while, but did not find anything that really applies. This might be due to the fact that I'm both new to instructables, and not a native English speaker. I might be using the wrong keywords.So I live in a very humid and foggy place, and it's winter now. When I hang my clothes out to dry, the process takes ages. Sometimes I think it might be working backwards: the clothes become wetter. Also, an unpleasant byproduct is that my clothes become smelly, despite they are clean. Sometimes, as a last resort, I hang my clothes inside the house. But my house is very small, and I do not really have a place for the clothes hanger. Plus, the house gets very humid and I am afraid I'm going to get mold. On the other hand, I have a rather large balcony, with a lot of place for the clothes hanger.Of course I could buy a clothes dryer. I actually use a coin-operated one for large items, such as bed sheets and large towels. But I'd rather not use a tumble dryer for my clothes.However I recently learned about heat recovery ventilation for houses, and I started wondering whether the same concept could be used to build a small-ish enclosure (a box) where air is kept warmer and dyer than outside, possibily in a controlled manner. Also, it would be very nice to get energy from the sun. Surely the walls of this box could be transparent, or black, to create some kind of greenhouse effect. Then I need a fan, to have the air circulating. The air could go through a heat recovery unit. This could probably solar-powered. On the other hand, I am not sure that solar panels would be helpful for heating the inside of the box by night (energy should be of course stored, but I do not think that would be enough).I see that something similar to what I'm thinking about is already on sale e.g. on amazon. These are called "portable clothes dryers", but they do not seem really optimized. They look like a combination of a hair dryer, a clothes rack and a tent. I do not think there is a real heat exchanger, or humidity control...Plus, they do not seem really safe, especially if operated outdoors.Can someone give me some advice, e.g. pointing me to projects that use similar ideas possibly for different purposes?Thanks a lotFrancesco

Topic by pieffebi 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Rugged external pull up/down resistor connection

How do you people install a pull up/down resistor in a very stable rugged way.I want to hook up a pull up resistor to a sensor but I only have a cheap color coded resistor and if I solder it would be a messy hack and not a rugged long term solution. Of course I would like to buy a rugged solution, but I hit a wall with google, maybe my keywords aren't right. But I am pretty sure i am not the only one with this issue.Rufus MapQuest UpToDate

Topic by cjmaverickforever 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Programación de Modulo De UltraSonido

En esta prueba de la programación del Modulo de Ultra sonido hubieron varios inconvenientes al al principio, por ejemplo al programarlo por 1ra vez y al colocarlo en el suelo el robot no detectaba los objetos que se aproximaban a el, creímos que tal vez faltaba calibrarlo.Al programarlo por 2da ocasión el robot ya detectaba los objetos, el problema era que no daba la vuelta, simplemente se quedaba estático, creíamos que fue porque la batería estaba descargada. Al pasar 20 - 25 minutos tal vez el problema era que se necesitaba aumentar la velocidad del coche. Eran simples errores, esperemos que al hacer esto y les pasen los mismos errores que a nosotros,

Topic by ReneSantana 6 months ago


"Most Popular" ... ?

I was curious how the "Most Popular" section on the front page works, it's great and shows some wonderful Instructables, but I'm curious as to how an Instructable with just 67 views gets #1 on the list. Is it views / time? Comments / time? Thanks!

Topic by Kryptonite 7 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


How much angle or curve needed for bike trailer tow-bar?

I want to make a trailer for my bike, but am confused about all the various types/styles of D.I.Y. tow-bars I see being made/used...how does the curve/bend of the tow-bar affect whether the trailer will track correctly behind the bike? If the trailer does not track correctly behind the bike then the tires will be ruined over time, and it will cause more 'drag' (harder to pull). I understand that the tow-bar needs to be able to clear the bike's back tire when turning, but if I put the wrong angle or curve in the tow-bar will it cause issues with keeping the trailer straight behind the bike and tracking properly?So how does someone determine the correct angle/curve of the tow-bar, besides trial and error and possibly wasted materials? Thank you for your time and assistance.

Topic by Bsrlin 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


PWM to MPPT solar Charge Controller

I have an Hybrid Solar Inverter with 50A PWM solar charge controller inbuilt into it. It works on 24V battery bank. I am having 800Watt of PV module installed in the system. As my inverter is having PWM charge controller, I am not able to harvest maximum of power from panels. I want to know that, is there any arrangement or device which can be put in between PV panel and my Inverter which can increase efficiency or can act as PWM to MPPT converter for my Inverter? My Solar Pannels generates often 39V but I couldnt utilize the surplus power as it stepped down to 24 Volt.

Topic by Shashi BhushanS 4 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Circuit design

Hi, I’m hoping someone could help me. I’m looking to design a circuit for a college project that controls a 240v light. The circuit and light will be controlled by a switch however when the switch is first turned on the light needs to remain off (no power supplied) regardless of the amount of time the switch is on. If however the switch was turned on off and on again then the light needs to come on. Any ideas of a circuit and components required to produce something like this? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Topic by Worby10 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Rotary Tool neck thread size

I have several ideas for rotary tool accessories that would make my life easier, but they would have to be attached at the neck. So I need to cut out a hole, and tap it out to the right thread size. Anyone know what that is?

Topic by BoomGuy 11 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


How to get an instructable featured?

Hey can i know how to get an instructable featured my friend got his in a day?

Topic by iloveandroid 5 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


What can I do with Pro?

I recently recived a free 3 month pro membership for having my Instructable featured. (See the featured Instructable here.) But I don't know what I can do with Pro! What are some pro benifits, and how do I use them?

Topic by Chikpea 5 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


An alternative to expensive grinding stones

For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.

Topic by Downunder35m 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


I need to know how to make a dc male jack with battery clip

I have a dc male jack and a battery clip.separately.i need to know how to connect .this is from a project i saw in instructables.please help.

Topic by ABhiramS5 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Why don't old /community/* urls redirect to new /topics/* urls????

All of the older links to a topics on Instructables link to instructables.com/community/page urls, but a while ago (I'm not sure exactly when) all the /community/* pages were moved to /topics/*. Clicking the old /community links returns a 404 error, which is annoying because then I have to manually replace the "community" with "topics" in the url. So my question is, why can't all the /community/*/ pages redirect to their respective /topics/*/ pages?

Topic by scitronboy 6 months ago


Electric knife sharpeners.....

Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....

Topic by Downunder35m 6 months ago


From Anime to Reality

Someone was such a fan of Akira that they recreated Kaneda's bike from the manga and the movie. The bike is actually street legal and I'm looking forward to reports of it tearing it up in Neo Tokyo in vicious street gang battles. Extra bonus points if it manages to create light trails. Link

Topic by fungus amungus 10 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


(EMP generator)How can i make a long range EMP generator?

I have watched many video in youtube about, how to make EMP generator. But those EMP's range are really small, I want to make a EMP that can disable any electric device around me like, Disabling all the device in my room. So can Anyone help me with this??

Topic by harryt47 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


YouTubers who also post on Instructables

Who are your favorite YouTubers who post their project tutorials here on Instructables? For me the list isn't that long, looking to make it longer...Darbin OrvarEvan & KatelynPaul JackmanBrian LoughGlen (DIY Creators)Jen FoxbotJohnny Brooke (Crafted Workshop)Barb Makes Things

Topic by bekathwia 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Microwave stopped heating and I fixed it.

Our microwave is about two years old and it stopped heating. The fan ran and the carousel went around, but food did not warm. I took it out of the upper cabinet mount and opened the case. I know about the big capacitor and discharged it with a screwdriver after disconnecting the power. For extra safety I clipped a jumper wire on both terminals. I watched numerous videos at YouTube on troubleshooting a microwave and on testing the various major components at home, but no component showed any signs of failure. Then it began to work again as suddenly as it had stopped working. About ten days later, it stopped heating again. After more testing, still no components showed signs of failure. But, I did squeeze the female spade crimp connectors a little with a pair of pliers before connecting them again so they fit more tightly when reconnected. The microwave has continued to work as it should. My wife remembers a time a few months ago when she ran it and ran it to get something to cook as she wanted it and the microwave stopped because it was overheated. I suspect a connection was weak and heated the metal in the connector enough that it became weak. Later it failed intermittently. We could have called warranty service, but we did not want to wait. Knowing what I know now, I doubt a serviceman would have patiently checked for weak connections, but would probably have simply replaced some parts. When those did not really solve the problem, the microwave would have been condemned and replaced. A replacement oven may not have matched our other appliances as well as our present microwave does. Test procedures for components in a microwave are different than they are for similar components used in (for example) a sound amplifier. This applies especially to the high voltsge diode. Do not connect a voltmeter to the high voltage side of the transformer. When running the microwave, be certain to have a dummy load in the cavity, like a cup of water. A very useful test that checks for power to the transormer primary is to disconnect the primary side transformer connectors and attach aligator clips from a voltmeter to the transformer leads. Then run the microwave for a few seconds and check for a full line voltage reading each time. A clamping ammeter to measure line current helps because the sound with the magnetron working is not too much differnt from the fan and carousel running without the magnetron working, but, it is easy to see the extra needle deflection when the magnetron is also drawing current.What seemed to be an expensive problem had an easy inexpensive solution.

Topic by Phil B 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 6 months ago


Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Topic by meemee_0822 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Halloween Making: Why do we do this to ourselves!? ; )

Closing in on midnight on October 30th, and I found myself in a familiar situation . . .Making last-minute Halloween costumes and props for my kids!Here's a photo of my late-night kitchen table, where I was working on a homemade hover board prop from the "Back to the Future" movies. I paused for a moment to survey the scene and snap a photo, and couldn't help taking note of the silliness of the whole thing. It's midnight. I'm tired. My kids are asleep. And I'm up making this thing. WHY?Why do we do this to ourselves?! - - - - - -I know why I do it, but tell me why you do!Were you up late making stuff for yourself or for your kids? Share your reasoning and thoughts on being a creative Halloweener in the comments below. Be sure to include a photo or two of what you were making!

Topic by seamster 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


3d delta printer issues

Hi everyone. I need some help regarding the homing of a 3d delta printer, and it's my first attempt to create a 3d printer by scrap. My problem is regarding the homing, when I do the homing 2 out of 3 endstop work properly but 1(always one) doesn't work properly(see video). While the support is hitting the endstop, it moves a little back like the others, but then move up again and doesn't stop 'til I do it manually. there is someone that have some idea to solve the issue? Hope everything is clear enough, otherwise ask me :) Thank you in advance.

Topic by SebastianS217 6 months ago


Knex Mp7 PDW

This is my new H&K; MP7 PDW. It features a removable magazine, a foldable front foregrip, iron sights, and it is very sturdy. Hope you liked it and see you next time with another knex gun!

Topic by TheKnexPro 7 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Magnets in the Microwave, can you do it?

So does anyone know if you can put a magnet in the microwave? Will it cause some nuclear explosion, or rocket me back into time? Or will it just stay on my mug and witness the warming of my beverage?

Topic by Punkergal 11 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago