How does one sort questions by date of submission?

Hi all,It's been a while since I've been to instructables. I see that Questions are back, but they seem to be listed randomly. one will be "posted 9 years ago", followed immediately by one the was "posted 6 days ago" followed by one that was "posted 3 years ago" etc.I don't see any ability to sort by date, although I suspect I'm simply unfamiliar with the new layout.Any help would be appreciated.PS> If some iblesfolk sees this post, I'd like to thank you for implementing post editing. It was always an aggravation to me that I'd have to delete a post in order to correct a misspelled word or otherwise fix some grammatical or cognitive error. Thanks also for implementing the menu bar above posts. (B/I/U etc)dropping this into "websites<

Topic by seandogue 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


What is this tool

Does anyone know what this tool is?

Topic by weflyfish2 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : https://coeleveld.com/arduino-stepper-uln2003a/I foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor runing.so I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic :devzone.nordicsemi.com/.../application-timer-tutorialhere is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Topic by BenjaminP106 6 months ago


Maker/fab lab/AI special call for papers invitation

Hi !My name is Andre Peres and I'm a professor and fab lab manager at Brazil.Me and Fabiana Lorenzi are chairing a special track at flairs (The FLORIDA ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE RESEARCH SOCIETY) about fab labs, makers and AI. about the track: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about flairs: http://www.invenio.com.br/flairs/about We are inviting interesting projects to submit to this track. When we made this special track we wanted to give fab labs and makers the opportunity to get together in this academic environment to talk, exchange experiences and also to get this opportunity to link academic research, the maker movment and personal digital fabrication.We hope you consider submiting your project to this special track, and also to see you at FLAIRS. best regards;André.

Topic by decoP 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Ideas and Methods for DIY Truck Topper

So in 5 months starting February I'll be getting my first vehicle. If I do get a truck, I'll be making my own topper out of wood. Now I have a reference picture but I want it out of wood just because it's more secure and looks pretty. Also because I will be making a door on the back that stands tall but can also be walked through. The first two photos is how I want to make the topper but I need methods and advice to do so. The third picture is how I want the door. I'll try to answer any question when you have them but keep in mind I don't currently own a truck, this is for 6 months down the road.

Topic by jlowery5 2 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


10 Watt LED Circuit

I am a software developer by trade and have little or no experience regarding LED and/or electronic designs. I am hoping someone here can help with a project I am working on using high brightness LEDs. I have studied several 'instructables' and specifically dan's "Circuits for using High Power LED's." My project consists of a few high brightness LEDs that will be placed in a high ceiling room with the brightness controlled by a microcontroller based on the light in the room (time of day, sun in window, etc). The microcontroller will use photocells to determine the brightness in the room and then adjust the LED using PWM pins. The LED is 10 watt and approximately 450 lumens. Attached is a circuit I drew as a starting point and would like help in determining if it will work, I am close or does it need to be trashed. I am not sure what the value for the resistor should be. Below are some calculations but not sure if I am on the right track or not. No need to be kind, I am more interested in getting it right and not losing any 'magic puffs of smoke' from any of the components. Here are the specs: LED IF: 1.6 A Peak Forward Current: 1.7 A Forward Voltage: 8 V LM350 (heavy duty version of LM317 IO_MAX: 4.5 A 1.2 - 25 V adjustable regulator BC337-40 Collection Current - Continuous: 800 mA dc Total Device Dissipation: 625 mW Resistor: 5W or 10W Voltage Amp Ohms Watt 8 1.60 5.0 12.8 8 0.80 10.0 10.0 8 1.10 7.5 8.5 Note: LED and components will have adequate heat sinks.

Topic by desnotes 9 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Support contact problems

Hi, Is anyone else experiencing problems contacting the Instructables support team via email? I have tried to email them via different channels three times now but it comes back as non-existent email address.... ironically the reason I'm trying to email support in the first place is because despite changing my contact to a new email address in my personal settings, emails are still being sent to my old email address. If anyone knows how to get through to support or if they are having the same issue maybe we can join forces to resolve it..? Cheers!

Topic by PabloDee 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Need ideas on how to make an automatic photo slicer/cutter...

I'm playing with a digital photobooth which prints out 2 vertical strips per piece of 4x6 photo paper.  It works great, and I just cut the paper in half (the long way to separate the two strips. I'm looking for a way to automate this.  I've tried pre-perforating the paper, which works but is not ideal.  I've also just manually used a paper cutter (both rotary and guillotine style). My goal: an automatic paper cutter that will cut a 4x6 photo in half the long way. I've actually started building a device that is basically a slot to guide the paper, and a turning rotary blade.  The paper gets dropped in the top, is drawn through the turning rotary blade in the middle, and is spit out the bottom.  It works on small scraps of paper, but lacks the power to really cut through an entire piece of photo paper.  Also, it's built out of MDF wood and I lack the tools to make it precise enough to cut accurately. The cutting mechanism seems to be the big holdup.  I tried with my hand - a rotary blade (even a big sharp one) requires quite a lot of pressure to cut the photo, and it's not something the photo paper can just drop through via gravity.  I'd have to get a much stronger motor. But I'm starting to brainstorm - is there a better way?  I think ideally I'd have a mechanism like an electric paper shredder - two rolling bars with disc-shaped metal blades.  The blades are not thin & sharp like a razer... just sharply-square on their edges so that paper get gets caught between them gets cut.  I'd have a paper shredder with just two of those roller/blades, so it would just cut right down the middle. However, all paper shredders I've found are cross cut (which would pulverize the photo), or have grippy teeth that mangle the paper leaving very rough edges. So let's brainstorm... what kind of cutting mechanisms might work?  What are make-able in a garage with limited tools?  How could I create my own custom paper-shredder type roller-blades? Any ideas, thoughts, questions are welcome.  It seems simple on the surface, but I've built two prototypes and still don't have a workable solution. Thanks! (And yes, I'll turn it into an instructable when it gets done) SUMMARY: (I'll try to summarize the current ideas here) -Use a mini saw blade and work it like a mini table saw. -Create some kind of rotary die cutter. -Automate a normal guillotine paper cutter (lots of electronics and sensors).

Topic by jumpfroggy 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Crowdfunding

We love seeing our authors transform their ideas into a reality, and we want to help in whatever ways we can. Below are some of the campaigns our authors are working to get funded. We'll do our best to keep this list current, so please check out their projects, and help fellow makers in our community find success!  Current Campaigns i-mimic the animation made easy, Device capturing human motion directly in 3D animation software in real-time & without plugins. by Instructabler nawres102 Open Source DIY Automatic Tail Light, A fun and easy to assemble light sensor kit.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Tiq probe, it defines a new category of electronic debug & test tools for makers & professionals - filling the gap between DMMs & 'scopes. By Instructabler markhen57 If you have a project you're trying to get funded, let us know!  Completed Campaigns  Doughnut Safe, Turn your spare tire into a strong box.  By Instructabler Mrballeng The fumeFan, The fume Fan is a soldering fume extractor, work lamp, helping hands tool and a project organiser for hobbyists, makers and creators.  By Instructabler hertzgamma SOLARPAD Open Source 5 Watt Smart Phone Solar USB Charger, Strap this water-resistant solar panel and battery to backpacks or mount it to tripods for camping, hiking, and cycling.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Fish Bone, A no knots cord tightener specifically designed for paracord by author Mrballeng - Funded by almost 9000% of goal! Would you Woodwork, a funny and informational woodworking webseries by author Few Bits - Funded by 100% of goal!  Zero to Maker, a re-skilling guide for new makers by David Lang - Funded by almost 2000% of goal! Arabic Alphabet Fun Flashcards, cute and kid friendly learning tool by author acraftyarab - Funded and met goal! PIXEL: Interactive LED Art, an interactive LED-based display for retro pixel art by author alinke - Funded by over 600% of goal! Blinky Fish, a tiny fish-shaped board that fits on an Arduino to help teach, by author marc.cryan - Funded by almost 600% of goal! Chipper, the ATtiny Programming and Prototyping Shield, by author Hammock Boy - funded by over 1000% of goal! Piranha, a follow-up knotless gear tie for paracord, by author Mrballeng - funded by over 1400% of goal! The Question Block Lamp, a Mario-inspired, interactive lamp for your inner geek, gamer and child, by author bduxbury - funded by almost 150% of goal! Out of Time - A patina weathered I-Beam with moving gears by Instructabler hack818 Maker Kase - Universal Maker cabinet. Perfect for 3D printers, model makers, small CNC machines and open frame Bitcoin Miners by Instructabler bmc.loughlin Have you started your own Kickstarter or Indiegogo to help fund your project? Let us know! Please leave the link in the comments, along with a brief description. We'll add your project to our up-to-date campaign list above, and promote it across our channels. If you have any questions, or want to add any additional info, please email me at khoward@instructables.com Thanks!

Topic by kazmataz 5 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Light-Board reaction time test

So I'm into martial arts and I was surfing the net looking for hand-eye and reaction time tests. I came across this http://www.topendsports.com/testing/tests/reaction-batak.htm The NFL and other sports trainers use it to  either gauge or improve reaction time, it's very popular among boxers and hockey goalies. I want one, but of course it's outrageously expensive so I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how I could make something similar of my own. I was thinking of using LED lights and some kind of pressure switch to register my touching the light. the main problem is I don't have any idea how to make the lights blink randomly. if anyone has any Ideas I would greatly appreciate it thanks!

Topic by lmm1779 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Re-categorizing Furniture 'ables by function rather than alphabetical?

I'm beginning the process of doing some pretty major remodeling projects in my home, and was looking through the Furniture category, in the hopes of finding some ideas. Maddeningly, it's arranged alphabetically by the title of the Instructable! https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructable...That makes zero sense, unless you are looking for an 'able whose title you already know. I mean, honestly! -WTF is a "20KRKR", and why would anyone think to click on it to find an 'able for a *rocking chair*?! ( https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructables/furniture/ )So I'm wondering how one could go about either re-organizing the category, or providing an alternative browsing structure based upon the actual categorical function of each piece of furniture. Taxonomically, this should not be a problem. Seating is seating, lighting is lighting, work surfaces are work surfaces, etc., and each could logically be subdivided. For example, the Lighting category could be split into Task lighting, Area lighting, multi-function lighting, and Seating could be divided into Group seating (sofas, love seats, etc.), Single seating (arm chairs, side chairs, stools, etc.), and so on. I think that this would be vastly easier to use than the current alphabetical structure. Any opinions pro or con? Any suggestions as to how to make this happen? Is there anyone at Instructables whom I could contact and propose this to?

Topic by Bricology 7 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


I NEED THE HELP OF ALL FIDGET TOYS LOVERS :)

Good morning,my name is Benedetta Piazza and I am a master student at the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan. I am currently writing my final dissertation about “Consumer Entrepreneurship in the Creation of new Markets: The Case of Fidget Toys”. I am contacting you since I have read that some of you took part in the creation of creative-innovative fidget toys. I would like to submit you a survey in order to get more specific information about your interesting project. I hope not to disturb you and get a feedback from you, this is the link to my survey, it only takes less than 3 minutes, I primise!: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1xfnj_kqI0R7sItWu5-YTPuzCcefRpUpGhB_9u8DSMyc/edit Best regards, Benedetta Piazza

Topic by BenedettaPiazza 7 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


IOS 10.0.2

Hi I received IOS 10.0.2 overnight for my iPhone 6.  I notice when using my mobile to share an instructable via email, the message window opens and I hit 'Send'.  However the window stays open, and acts as though no button has been pressed.  I hit send a few more times, with nothing happening, then tried to cancel.  I saved my message as draft, but the window remained open.  I then chose to delete the message...and the window stayed open.  The only way out of this window was to kill the app. I then had a bunch of messages arrive in my destination email...so all of the messages were correctly sent. It seems that the app needs an update to close the message window once an action (send, save as draft or cancel) is pressed. Regards Shane

Topic by Minnear Knives 2 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Collaboration experiment

Does anyone want to try the collaboration experiment again? I forget why it stopped the first time but I thought it was fun. It would essentially be the same except for a few things that I think would improve it

Topic by bravoechonovember1 8 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


All my favorites are gone

I recently changed my username, and immediately afterwards all my favorites disappeared! This was the case on both my computer and the android app. Is there anyway to retrieve them? Thanks!

Topic by DoctorDIY 2 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


The Validity of Astrology

So today in one of my classes we talked about the practice of astrology and how it supposably affects us. My teacher didn't tell us to go and relie on horoscopes on how to live our days. I was just wanting to hear some other opinions on it. Personally i'm still sort of reluctant to accept it, not sure why but... Just ya know post your opinions on whether you think this really old practice is BS or is worth taking a look at.

Topic by wingman246 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Does anyone Identify this IR Receiver Component?

I recently disassembled a stereo receiver (rx-4010r) and I found this ir receiver, and I would like to to control it with my arduino. Can anyone help me get the datasheet, or suggest what are the connections?Thanks, Ariel.

Topic by ArielE20 11 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


making methanol

Hi im looking to make some methanol i have heard you cna do this by mixing cabon monoxide and hydrogen but i have no idea how anyone got any ideas for making these and therefore being able to make methanol or other ways of making methanol cheers josh

Topic by minus273degrees 12 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


3d Printed Concrete Forms for Architectural Post Tensioned Concrete Sculptures

I am looking at the feasibility of 3D printing concrete forms to make a staircase that goes up a 4' retaining wall. The forms would be cylindrical, split in half, and during the pour would be supported using a wood support system. Ideally I would have one main highly curved support "column" (think more of a snake or spaghetti noodle) with then stairs that slide in via a mortise and tenon type connection. The stairs would be poured individually in a separate production process than the main support. I plan on using a combination of a wire mesh, rebar and tension cables for the concrete reinforcement. The tension cables would run the length of the main support beam and would be hydraulically tensioned just before the formwork was removed. I have ample concrete experience as a civil engineer and a construction manager but this idea seems like I need some outside input.Does anyone have any experience 3d printing concrete forms. What is the best material that will hold up to the moisture and high alkalinity of concrete?At this point I have no real conceptual drawings but I'm looking to see if any similar projects have been attempted and hopefully learn and improve on them!

Topic by cjh83 7 months ago


forked threads and linear threads

Hi. It's about how are organized threads into forums. Currently forum threads are forked : you can reply to a comment separately, and each of your reply will make a new fork if somebody reply to your new comment ... this makes threads like trees ... Personally, I don't find this system very handy, more particularly when the same thing is being actively discussed in several forks. This system is good for short chats and when commenting instructables, but when it's about debating, it quickly becomes confusing ... For the forums, I'd prefer a system with a linear thread where messages are ordered according to time, and where we have to quote the persons we want to reply to. Several discussion could get "multiplexed" on the same thread, but personally, I find that less confusing as long as there are quotes. What's your preference ?

Topic by chooseausername 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


The Torrefaction Process... Anybody know how to cook wood?

For anyone out there who is not yet familiar with Torrefaction, it is a process of "baking" wood in an over between 200 and 320 degree Celsius (392 - 608 F), in the absence of oxygen. Don't quote me on those temperatures btw... I got them from Wikipedia, and they sound way too hot based on other articles I've read. The idea is, wood contains a lot of biomaterials like sugars, resigns, tar, and water. After you cut down a tree, these materials begin to vacate the wood through evaporation, sublimation, and all the other _'ations...It takes 100 years or so, but eventually, they all are gone, and the wood is super stable, and no longer expanding, moving, contracting and changing. This old wood is also extremely rot resistant and can withstand the elements. For this reason, Torrefied wood is used for decking and outdoor projects mostly. However, the guitar industry has also started to adopt using it, because you have basically aged the wood 100 years in the course of a few hours. You have also increased the price of the damn guitar to the, "your firstborn child" level. I build guitars, and I cannot believe that it can be too hard to bake some wood myself. Here are the variables that I see...1. Vessel: How to create an environment that can be brought to a specific temperature (~350-400 d F), but has also had all oxygen removed? Even if you welded together a steel box that could be locked down air-tight, and had a valve that you could pump all the air out, if you could figure out a way to heat that box to 400 d F, the water inside the wood would def. begin to boil and I imagine would be re-introducing O2. I guess you'd have to re-pump the air out every so-often until all the water was gone. 2. Temperature: Torrefication is also the exact same process that is used to turn ordinary hardwood into charcoal. I have no idea what the temperatures are, but lovely baked spruce for a guitar top has turned a slight aged tan color. But if you cranked the temp, it would eventually turn into pure carbon and be jet black like charcoal. I have no idea how to tell what temp achieves what I want. 3.) Time: I always read that Torrefied wood is baked at these temps for "several/many" hours. How would I ever know?4.) Pressure/Flames/Bomb: I know from watching YouTube videos, that when charcoal is made, wood is superheated in an oxygen-free env. until the volatile oils, resins, etc ignite and burn off, thus leaving Charcoal. I do not want to weld together a heavy steel box that becomes a high temp pressure cooker, that blows my kitchen apart when the oils in the wood inside of it ignite. Does anyone know what I am talking about and/or have any suggestions?

Topic by Dolmetscher007 7 months ago


Removing hairspray from painted woodwork

Can anyone suggest how to remove hairspray (off spray) from painted wooden surfaces (doors) as we have tried all proprietary household products and white spirit without any success and it would be nice to have to avoid repainting the doors..!!

Topic by Briarswood 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Help needed to make a model spinning teacup ride

Hi can anyone help me I need to build 2 model amusement park rides, the first one a ferris wheel this has been sorted out however the second one is a spinning teacup ride which I have no idea where to start with it. I have looked on the internet for ideas but no such luck. The spinning teacup ride has to be built out of cardboard and recycable items, this ride needs to include a mechanism that is housed in the structure. Has anyone built a model like this. Where can I find some help with this. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need help Please!

Topic by dromedarius 3 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


K'NEX Halo 3 Dual SMGs and Battle Rifle

Dual M7 Caseless SMGsI made another SMG and a Battle Rifle! The SMGs are almost exactly alike, except when I made the second one I noticed some problems and made a few small changes. Also, I didn't have enough of those swingy pieces I used for the forestock joint, so I used ball and joint pieces, which worked great.Here is the description from the page I made when I made the first one.This is a K'NEX model (just a model, not a gun) of the M7 Caseless Submachine Gun from Halo, better known as the SMG. It has twin notch sights, rear and fore stock, and a solid barrel. The stock is extended, the way I made it, but I'm thinking about making it collapsible. It should be fairly easy to put in a firing mechanism, but I don't plan on doing that right now. I don't think I'm gonna post instructions because I would have to take it apart. If anyone can dissect it in their minds, go ahead and make an Instructable, but make it a collaboration with me. M7 Caseless SMG on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res M7 Caseless SMGBR55HB SR - Battle Rifle, Heavy Barrel, Sniper RifleDifferences between BR55HB SR (Halo 3) and BR55 (Halo 2)- Longer barrel- Trigger guardI based my model off the BR55HB SR, which is the actual name for the Battle Rifle in Halo 3, so it includes all the changes. It has the elevated rail, which has a scope on it. You might notice at the end of the barrel in the picture of the actual gun, the barrel looks expanded at the end. I did this too. The inside of the model is almost completely hollow, so it would be easy to convert into a gun. The barrel at the end would be hard though. The whole thing is very solid, even though it's hollow. It's also very easy to make, unlike the SMG.BR55HB SR Battle Rifle on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res BR55HB SR Battle Rifle

Topic by Aeshir 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


How do I convert an AC device to run on a battery pack?

I have a device that runs on ac (110-120 Vac - 180w). I want to make it portable so that it can run off a battery pack such as AA or 9 Volt or even a custom battery. Is this too much of a power requirement to make it possible??? thanks in advance for your help.

Topic by gadgetcrazy 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Instructables App

Hello, My daughter has recently discovered Instructables on my phone, and now she wants the app on hers.  Does anyone know what happened to it?  I have tried the Family Sharing feature for IOS; however, it isn't on my list of purchased apps... Thoughts?

Topic by cyberogre 2 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver - L298N not given enough power to motors

Hi there, am very new to the electronics community, I recent bought my first arduino. I wanted to build me own RC car, so I bought Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver L298N Module from ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-H-Bridge-Motor-Driver-L298N-Module-For-Arduino-PIC-DC-Stepper-L298-Board-/251291436187?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash;=item3a8223049b) I think I have connected everything correctly but somehow the 2 dc motors connected to the motor driver don't seem to move, I have tried a 9v battery to power the motor shield but doesn't seem to do anything. I  used this diagram do the connection to the arduino http://i.imgur.com/JCBcSfL.jpg The arduino itself has it own 9v battery powering it. I have checked both motors and they work fine. when i switch on the rc car the led on the motor shield blinks but the motors just don't move. I used a digital multimeter to measure the voltage going into the motor. it goes upto 0.36v  then drops. does that mean there isn't enough voltage going into the motors? and how much voltage do you recommend to get it working? Images of the rc car http://imgur.com/K7zff2G http://imgur.com/9kaWQBy http://imgur.com/OEidI90 http://imgur.com/lnpjvNM http://imgur.com/izgDEtY http://imgur.com/tqhdQVv The code am running on the arduino //motor A int dir1PinA = 2; int dir2PinA = 3; int speedPinA = 9; //motor B int dir1PinB = 4; int dir2PinB = 5; int speedPinB = 10; unsigned long time; int speed; int dir; void setup(){   pinMode(dir1PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir1PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinB,OUTPUT); time = millis(); speed = 0; dir = 1; } void loop(){     analogWrite(speedPinA, speed);   analogWrite(speedPinB,255 - speed);     //set direction   if(1 == dir){     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, LOW);   }else{     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, HIGH);   }     if(millis() - time > 5000){     time = millis();     speed += 20;     if(speed > 255){       speed = 0;     }     if(1 == dir){       dir = 0;     }else{       dir = 1;     }   }   }

Topic by Raphael1 5 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


A 5 gig file won't fit onto an empty 16 gig flash drive?

I have a 16 gigabyte flash drive that's relatively empty (13.7GB free space), and I was trying to put a 5 gigabyte .ISO file onto it.  However, when I try to copy the file to the flash drive, I get an error saying there is not enough space to put the file on the flash drive.  I know this is not true because I have over 13 gigs of free space. Is there any reason for this weird error and is there any fix? This is kinda important.

Topic by DJ Radio 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Looking for help exceeding a fundraising goal

My son had jmml leukemia and I’m looking for help raise money for the cause. I’ve been a member of this community for a while and I feel you guys can do a lot to help. Please follow the link to donate. https://pages.lightthenight.org/mi/DetroitL18/SuperBradley

Topic by The Rubber Duck 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Run a generator with a motor

I have a 1.5kva gas engine generator but the engine part broke down. I opened it up to see if it can be fixed but the cam and the piston were shredded to pieces. I tried to run the generator part to see if it still works by hooking it up to an angle grinder via pulleys and a belt. It did work but the grinder only lasted half an hour. What better ways can i run this generator off of? What motor can i use to take the place of that broken engine? The engine speed is 3600 rpm.

Topic by Servantwind 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Sharpening knifes and similar tools

On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Important Changes to Contests - May 1st

Hello everyone! As most of you have probably noticed, we haven’t changed much with our contests over the last several years. But this year we’re changing that, thanks to all of you and your important feedback! In 2018, we are going to be trying new things when it comes to contests. We believe these changes will lead to a larger variety of winners and even more incredible instructables!With that said, we’d like to announce two major contest updates starting on May 1st. #1 - Every instructable can only be entered into ONE single contest.At first, this may seem like bad news, but we promise it’s actually good: the new rule will allow more authors to win prizes! We’re reducing the number of prizes ONE instructable can win, but this will allow for more winners overall. While we’re sure some of you will be disappointed, this is a great way to level the playing field and simplify the process for both authors and judges. The old contest system allowed an author to enter three contests with one instructable, which greatly increased the number of entries per contest. Along with increasing the number of entries per contest, the old system tended to pit new authors against much more experienced authors who understand that they can up their chances of becoming a finalist by working multiple contest themes into an instructable. We hope this new contest rule will encourage our authors to commit fully and enthusiastically to one contest theme and create more focused projects, instead of stressing about making something to qualify for three separate contests!.#2 - We are creating more Prize Packs.Currently, if you win a contest at any prize level you will get an Instructables prize pack, some stickers, and whatever other random swag we have lying about in our prize room. As it turns out, this has created a situation in which our best authors end up filling their homes with piles of instructables T-shirts. We recognize that winning T-shirts over and over again is boring.To make Prize Packs Great Again over the next few months, we are going to roll out new Prize Packs on a permanent and limited edition basis. When you win a contest, you will be able to select the standard T-shirt prize pack, but you will also have new choices coming soon.Make sure to keep an eye out soon for new Instructables swag we know you’ll love!

Topic by randofo 1 year ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Orrery Plans

Hi folks, I have a little project in mind and I was wondering if anyone knows of anywhere I can get plans to build an orrery for our solar system? Alternatively a mains powered orrery mechanism that I can build around would be good as well. Many thanks in advance

Topic by Motorbikeman 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Connect Arduino UNO to a Laser with TCP/IP or RS232 protocol

Hi everyone, I am trying to comunicate with a Laser via ethernet or RS232 but I realy don't find enough information in internet to make my sketch. For TCP/IP, I am using a ENC28J60.CLK ---> D8SO ---> D12SCK --->D13SI --->D11CS --->D10VCC --->3,3vGND --->GNDYou will find attached the manual for TCP/IP comunications that the laser company gave me.Finaly for RS232, I tried to use the TTL-RS232 module (MAX3232) to comunicate but I was not able to make it works. (attached the manual for RS232 comunications that the laser company gave me.RXD ---> RX 0 TXD ---> TX 1VCC ---> 5vGNS ---> GNDPlease could somebody helps me with the code. Thank you,Jonathan

Topic by JonathanP233 8 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Archives

Where are the thousands of Instructables I have seen in the past? Is there an archive page? Thanks

Topic by nedwired 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


PVC pipes and winding Tesla coils....

There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.

Topic by Downunder35m 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


LINEAR ACTUATOR STEPPER MOTOR using Arduino Uno, DRV8825 and Sensor

Am already a year working as an amateur electronics. Sorry for my English, am 74 years and never learned the language. Now I'm managed to 17HS2408S, a DRV8825 with a servo and Arduino to this linear to run back and forth just over 35 cm (6400 full steps). This runs as desired in terms of distance. Now I would like to have with use of a Sensor that if he is activated the stepper make one run forward en back. To this end, the program should stop after one full run on contact from the sensor (Pir, LDR or photocell). Who can help me to customize the code that it stops after one time through the code, and how and where to connect a sensor to start the program.Foto connections and Servo_Test_3.ino

Topic by PierreV16 7 months ago


Knex Sig 552

Hello, this is my Knex Sig 552. It was pretty cool because it looks fantastic. It was a very cool gun. It shot very well and held around 15 blue rods. It used some micro Knex which wasn’t that bad. It had a removable magazine to. The sights were also pretty cool to.

Topic by Blue Mullet 6 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Looking for help with making a coils

I am wanting to make a rodin coil, like the second picture I included, except I don't have a 3D printer and I don't necessarily feel like dropping $200 on buying one and learning how to use it just to make a coil. So I'm asking if anybody would want to 3D print, ABS is fine, a Rodin coil for me? I have a PayPal account so we could work out a mutually agreed-upon price and I'll pay for shipping. I will also cover the the shipping cost. 76five, for6O, fourOsix9 shoot me a text ( that's my Google Voice number obviously I wouldn't give out my real cell phone number LOL)

Topic by DonS165 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


How does one choose the right 100k potentiometer?

I am building a pickup winder... a simple machine that winds hair-thin copper wire around magnetic poles.I need to build a 12V DC geared electric motor speed controller. I bought the following...12V DC 1000RPM geared electric motorLCD punch digital counter with a magnetic proximity switch12V Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) ON/OFF/ON toggle switchDC12V 2A Power Supply Adapter: AC100-240V to DC12V I know that a DC motor controller can be purchased for around $5-10, but since I am brand n00b to electronics, I want to take the opportunity to learn as much as I can by building everything (or as much as makes sense) myself. I found this Instrucable on building a DC motor speed controller. It seems simple enough, however, when I go to the Digi-Key website and look for 100k Ohm pots... there are a lot to choose from. I do not care about form factor. I have no size restraints or aesthetics. I just need a knob... that I can turn... that will allow me to set it to zero, switch the machine on and have the motor not turn at all... then slowly begin to spin as I turn the knob up to 10, and it is spinning at its top speed (1,000 rpm). This is the motor, this is the power supply, this is the counter, and this is the switch that I bought for this project. According to the instructable referenced above, I need: an IRF3205 mosfet, a 100k ohm potentiometer, and a heatsink. I do not yet have the vocabulary to even properly Google "How to tell which 100k ohm potentiometer works with a 12V DC motor..." Can someone please point me in the right direction?

Topic by Dolmetscher007 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Halloween Costumes

I need to make a costume for Halloween. I need to make a costume from scratch (or not) that will end up as Dorothy from The Wonderful Wizard of Oz. Any suggestions or advice or help?

Topic by blinkyblinky 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


My draft does not want to upload...

Hi everybody,I decided to write my first instructable. It all went ok with text and inserting pictures but now it remains in my draft folder and I can not figure how to get it published...Can anybody assist me?THANKS !!!!Christophe.

Topic by Christophe - Beau Du Ciel 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Right glue for the job

HI ThereI know this is not a craft question but does anyone know the type of glue that would be good to stick a piece of floor vinyl back to concrete floor. I have a small piece which has been torn and keeps flapping up its driving me mad and I don't want to just tape it down. many thanks LB

Topic by bilesl 8 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Arduino Help (again) - For some reason map() is messing up my analogRead value

Hi again.I am still messing around with this Arduino and have hit another barrier. I have given up on the last idea. This time I am trying to make 5 LED's light up as I turn the potentiometer. I assigned all the pins to what they were (names and pinMode() ). I then, just to see if I was actually getting the wanted value, I made it write to the serial monitor. Before using map(), when turned fully one direction it read 0 and when I turned it to the opposite side, it read 1023 (which is correct). I tried mapping it and then read the value. It would start off at 400 (with no interaction with the potentiometer) and drop all the way down to around 330 (when it was mapped with a toLow value of 1 and toHigh value of 5 (because I have 5 LED's)). Here is the code...(Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks)int ledPin1 = 0;int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 4; int ledPin4 = 6; int ledPin5 = 8;int potPin = 5;void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once:pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin3, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin4, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin5, OUTPUT);pinMode(potPin, INPUT);Serial.begin(9600); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: int potPin1 = map(potPin, 0, 1023, 1, 5);int potPinVal = analogRead(potPin1);Serial.println(potPinVal); delay(1);}

Topic by LOU_DEW747 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Automatic LED light for cordless drill?

As far as I know, DeWalt has not incorporated lights into their cordless drills as some other manufacturers have.  Could someone make an LED light which would come on when the magnetic field produced by the drill motor is sensed?  Perhaps a sensor taped to the drill body, and a small LED light pointing forward, or a ring of light around the drill chuck?

Topic by jonwells 8 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Need help making this bunk bed a reality!

So, I want to do this project with my kids. They’re 5 and 7, and I want to start early in educating them that all this stuff that surrounds them is made by someone, and that someone can be them...Also, they want a bunk bed. :)Take a look at the photo...Can anyone help me turn this picture into a design? I’m pretty handy, but I’d love it if someone with the carpentry-and-CAD skill intersection could take a crack at turning this pic into something I can use...Best,Dutch

Topic by DutchFlyer 9 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


I am a Premium member but cannot download items

I was already logged in and was viewing an item that I wanted to download. However, I made the mistake of clicking on 'upgrade to Premium' rather than 'login'. Now I cannot download anything: I am simply asked if I want to upgrade or not. The upgrade option requires another payment, so I don't want to follow that route. I cannot correct this fault by logging out and logging in again, or closing and reopening my browser. Help!

Topic by Bradscopegems 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Large motors and electronics classes

Hello,Is it just me, or there's something wrong with "Large motors" and "Electronics class" by randofo? It looks like there's nothing in comparison to just yesterdady, whereas I bought a premium account just to download his classes. Another problem is that I can not enroll or download any classes.Can You help me?

Topic by Emerid 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Torque to linear thrust through lead screw

Hi,I am trying to figure out maximum linear force I can produce with an electric motor through use of lead screw and nut. I have come up with an equation which seems correct but resulting forces are way higher than my intuition believes is correct.I tackled the problem from the perspective of energies:F' * p = M/r * 2*π*rlinear force * thread pitch = torque / radius [M/r = force at radius] * circumference of lead screwF = 2*π*M/p * (1-k) //k stands for coefficient of friction between lead screw and nut)Radius falls out of equation, which seems fine as force is provided by torque, which is radius agnostic. I used a 7€ stepper for source of torque which can provide 0.42 Nm of torque and a lead screw with 8 mm pitch and 4 mm radius, I assumed 15% losses. My equation tells me that such system can provide 280 N of force, which seems wayyy too much for a cheap motor.I have attached a python code that calculates linear force in case it helpsCan someone tell me if my equation is either correct or flawed?

Topic by ptkrf 7 months ago  |  last reply 7 months ago


Electronic repair after a voltage spike or power surge

So far I was lucky and never got a lightning strike or other power failure to induce high voltages into my house and equippment. But over the time I got several requests from friends to take a look at things after literally all connected electronics in their house got fried. In some cases there is only a total write off as due to a lack of surge protectors inside all unwanted juice made it's way into vital components. Like a brand new Samsung TV where the replacement of the power board was the only option - which makes you wonder... But in other cases, like microwaves, induction cooktops, computers and such I had some good success with the repairs. Guess it comes down to purs luck on both sides, power surge was not too bad and simple components on the input side failed quickly enough to prevent damage to microprocessors or other sensitive parts. Right now I have an induction cooktop here again that failed after a mains transformer in street blew up during a thunderstorm. I can tell it was bad as everything in the area of fried parts has a vaporizsed metal film on the surface and not much is left that was a surge protection. I cleaned all up, replaced the varistors and missing parts of the traces on the circuit board but the cooktop is not performing the way it should anymore :( At some stage during cooking it turns off with a meaningless error code stating the input voltage was out of bounds. So my next attempt was to literally remove every single component from the filter and power supply board to measure for any possible connections between the traces. By doing so I noticed several points where I had a quite high but measurable resistance in areas where there should be none. Mostly on the direct input side where the varistors tried to save things. So I used my Dremel in a tin drill press to cut the circuit board aourd the affect areas (where possible with a drill, otherwise with a thin grinding disk).. Sure enough I was greeted by charcoal colored dust in several areas. After removing all material until the dust was "clean"  tried again and this time all seems to work fine. I would like to use this topic to offer some help and guidance in case you have devices that suffered a severe power surge of some sort. Many of us either have no insurance to replace those items or even if you do the device might be expensive enough to try a repair despite getting it replaced. Trust me, even it went up in smoke there is still a chance to fix it in some cases and if proper protective circuits were in place the repair could as cheap as a few Dollars for replacement parts. To get useful advice the following things should be included in your request: Some clear pictures showing a close up of the affected parts - if there is visibale damage to be seen. A brief description of what happened, e.g.: lightning strike directly into the house or outside power lines, generator or inverter failure or simply that the power company stuffed up and your entire street was affected. Of course you will need the means to take the device apart for investigation and also some basic soldering skills or somehow how has and can assist you. But if you are up to the challange I am willing to help if possible.

Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 7 months ago