Required Power Supply for Peltier (TEC12715)

I'm going to build a Mini Airconditioner based on Peltier Module. I'm going to use 10 Peltier Module for better cooling. 1 Peltier requires Umax (V):15.4 Imax (A):15 Max power consumption (watt):231 Watt. Which Power Supply Driver is required to run all 10 Peltier Elements. [I am from Non-Electrical Background].

Topic by Karthiie keyan   |  last reply


Automotive reindeer antlers

Every year at Christmas I put antlers on my car. (Don’t necessarily do the red nose... Rudolf isn’t the only reindeer...) The store-bought antlers were fine on my old Saturn, but they look too puny on the Jeep that replaced it. I’d like to make my own, but they can’t be so tall or so wide that they’re an inconvenience - or catch too much air and break (or break the windows). Any ideas on how to pursue this utterly frivolous project?

Topic by Purple Chez   |  last reply


How to build a 5Kwh Power Wall using Headway 38120 LifePo4 Batteries

Frequent power cut during the summer and hours of no power issue during the monsoon makes our lives miserable. It's a common picture in rural areas where the overhead power line connection is prevalent. This led me to think about an alternative power back up that would be way better than the conventional LA or SLA battery solutions. With the constant advancement in the technology, new dimensions are being unfolded to us and I believe, the powerful Headway 38120 batteries are going to reign in the market for quite sometime. I need help from the experts to build a 5kwa Power Wall using Headway 38130 LifePo4 cells and an Inverter too. The parameters are: Output Voltage: 230v, Max Load: >500wh (I'm looking for 10hrs bkp= 5kwh), I'm clueless about how many cells I might need and how many of them will be in series and in parallel connection. Do I need a custom built charger for these LifePo4 cells and BMS too? Please help me up.

Topic by akik007   |  last reply


MP3 player with USB disk input

Hi All.I use my USB flash drive to play music on my PC and in my car. My stereo at my entertainment area does not have a USB input so I have to plug a device into it via aux such as a phone or MP3 player. My question is; are there any MP3 players that have a port for a USB flash drive? I have an old phone that I currently load with music to play on my stereo when I have guests but I would prefer to simply plug my USB disk into a device to play music off of it. Its a pain to load music onto my USB, then have to load the music again onto my old phone. Thanks

Topic by Waynne-EdwardR 


For some reason I`m not getting any more E-mail from you Guys? Please Help !

Was getting E-mail from you and it just stopped for some reason ,I signed back up Can you set me Back Up ???

Topic by MichaelB28   |  last reply


I want to make an object which can register button presses and sent the time being pressed to a webplatform

I am a master student in Belgium doing Communication and Multimedia Design (Interaction)For my master thesis I am trying to find a method of supporting children whose parents go through a divorce. I am trying to do this by making a physical object (cube for now) and combining it with a digital (web)interface.The main goal is to have the physical compact and portable object (a cube with buttons for now) being used by the kid and he/she being able to press a button related to a situation or emotion they may encounter (read: portable diary). So wherever he/she is, they can use the object to express what they encounter (a button related to self image, a button related to denial, ...). This input then goes to a digital platform where parents and/or a psychiatrist can look at when and what the child went through and use that info to know which problems they are and start a conversation about it in a way that the child does not have to be upfront about it.I got most of my theory figured out and went to psychologists myself to see what these processes are, the next step is to now start making a prototype. This is where I have my difficulties and hope to find some help in this great creative community. I have a bit of experience with Arduino and have access to a lab with lasercutters, 3D printing, ...So the main technical questions are as follows:Which material can I use to make a compact enduring cube?What can I use to register button presses?How can I make this object so it can be turned on and off (so buttons don't accidentaly get pressed)?What kind of buttons can I use/make?How can I integrate a indicator light for it being on or off?How can I send the data collected?How can I collect and organise the data on the digital (web)platform?And how can I make this all compact so it fits in a cube of about 6 by 6 cm?I know I may be asking a lot and I don't expect you to answer everything or do it all for me, of course I will keep doing whatever I can while this post is here. But any input/feedback is welcome here, since I just started doing this first prototype, many options and suggestions can still be implemented so if you have any knowledge of what I try to make (for example sending data over long distances OR other suggestions on what object is could be) FEEL FREE TO LET ME KNOW :DThank you in advance! I hope to hear anything at all :D

Topic by SenneH   |  last reply


Loop Time Ardunio

I need your help with a very very short code ?i have this code#include "Keyboard.h"#include "HID.h"void setup() { Keyboard.begin(); }void loop() {delay (1000); Keyboard.write(KEY_F1);delay (3000); Keyboard.write(KEY_F2);}this code works fine for me... but the problem isthis code give me only one "F1" and one "F2" in 4 seconds. i need "F1" appears every second (1000ms) and "F2" every 3 seconds (3000ms) in a infinyte loop

Topic by AngeloB49   |  last reply


top thrill dragster complete video and pictures.

Top thrill dragster completed.

Topic by the_burrito_master   |  last reply


Gif played after a click

Hi guys!It looks like there has been a new update on the site recently, and now we have to click on the gifs to see them.What do you think about this? Do you click on them? Or do you prefer the look at the pictures?I am wondering because I usually use a lot of gifs (sometimes 1 or more for each step), and maybe it is time to change this. So there are 3 possibilities:continue to load the gifs with the images (and click on them)replace the gifs with more images, and more detailsembed the gifs in the text, this way they automatically play once the page is open.What do you prefer?

Topic by Matlek   |  last reply


Do VOTES have any meaning?

EDIT(8/26/12): Since I posted this many of the contest official rules have included a clear explanation of how user votes are used to determine the finalist.  It most cases it seems 49% of the eligible entries are chosen solely on user votes.  This clears up all the confusion I had based on the previous wording of the rules for contests that are now over.       I recently read a blog post about the Make if Real contest that said that the winners were decided by votes, but I know that is not the case.   I looked at a few of the current and past contests and found out there is no way to view how many votes an instrucable has either during or after a contest, which I read is becasue people were trying to rig the voting.  So if judging is not based on votes and there is no way to know how many votes you got then why do we have the option to vote?  Having a vote button seems misleading.  

Topic by Doug Costlow   |  last reply


Is oogoo (DIY Silicone Putty) Oven-safe?

Hello! I have a question for people who use oogoo, or generally DIY silicone molding putty made from 100% silicone caulk. I want to cast oogoo molds of lego bionicle masks with polymer clay, but my issue is I need to keep the clay inside the mold in order to prevent any kind of warping, as most of it is spread a little thin (1-2mm thickness) and I don't want to end up warping it even in the slightest. Is oogoo or cured 100% silicone caulk oven-safe as long as it's within the specified temperature range? (I already know most DIY silicone putties aren't food-grade.) The silicone caulk I'm using is GE all purpose silicone I, mixed with corn starch, acrylic paint, and baby oil. The back of the tube says that it should not be used on surfaces that will exceed 400F/205C. The polymer clay I plan on using is cured at 110C, so I don't think it'll be a problem, but I'm worried exposing the silicone caulk mold to high temperatures will cause it to release some harmful chemical compounds. I looked up an MSDS sheet for GE silicone, and they had a generalized one stating exceeding the maximum temperature will cause the release of formaldehyde. Since I plan on baking these in our kitchen oven, I wouldn't want harmful chemicals contaminating a space where we cook our food. Also, if baking isn't an option, since the polymer clay is spread thin, and cures close to 100C, would curing it in boiling water be an option? (That way any water soluble chemicals would remain contained while the clay hardens.) All help is appreciated!

Topic by SixFootBlue   |  last reply


The file may be corrupted, located on a server that is not responding, or read only.

Hello, I have Win 7 and Excel 2007. When I try to open my .xls files I always get the same error message: The file may be corrupted, located on a server that is not responding, or read only. I`m sure that all my files are on the C disk and they are not read only…just week ago I was able to open it. My friend adviced me to make a scan disk and check my computer for viruses, but it didn`t help in the issue. Can you give me some tips how could I solve this problem?

Topic by AddyMaddy   |  last reply


Decode Custom RF ASK Signal with Arduino & RadioHead

I have a remote that sends out a preamble, a pause and then a long code where a 0 is encoded as 100 and 1 is encoded as 110. I used an RTL-SDR to decoded the aforementioned ASK signal. I know the code is correct because I can simulate the signal using an Arduino and FS1000A. I simply connected the FS1000A's data pin to a digital pin and then I send out the signal. What I want to do is actually receiving the signal on the Arduino, i.e. which button was pressed on which remote (there are multiple remotes). For that I am using an XY-MK-5V and the Radiohead library. I used the RH_ASK driver sample code. However, it doesn't receive anything at all, meaning nothing is printed to the serial monitor.I think there are a couple of issues, i.e. it seem the Radiohead library expects a different preamble then what my remote sends and it also expects a checksum which my remote also doesn't seem to send. I haven't found a way to configure Radiohead so it can deal with my remote code. Is such a configuration possible. If not, what are the alternatives?

Topic by muludu 


Laminate

Is there an instructable that gives me an idea of what to do with those little laminate chips that contractors and vendors hand out on key chains? You know, the ones that are samples of flooring or countertops? I don't know what they're called, but I sure have a slew of them!

Topic by suziwollman   |  last reply


Use old ipad as always-on wall mounted family organiser/info center

Hey everyoneI was looking at a bunch of instructables today for making a Magic Mirror, and I love the idea of making one. Could be a good info hub in my kitchen potentially, but then I figured that as much as I like the idea of building one, 1) I'm a little limited on time currently, and 2) I have an iPad (3rd gen, first one that got the retina screen) that really doesn't see much use now.So I figured that might be a good starting point until I have more time to build something from scratch, specially since it's touchscreen which is ideal for adding stuff to lists or amending things etc.I'm not worried about it being a mirror, but basically I want it to meet the following (approx) criteria:1) To remain with the screen always on - (think you can just set it to never lock in settings and this would do that?)2) To ideally be widget based content, to include such things as:WeatherA family based calendar (that individual calendars on other devices can link to preferably) Reminders Imminent events (for say the next 3 things in the calendar perhaps)Shopping listNow after some searching I can see there are quite a few family organiser type apps, but having gone through a bunch of them I can't quite find anything that suits quite what I had in mind because of the following sort of issues I've encountered:App needs to be on newer version of iOS (can't update this ipad to 10 or higher - it's forever to be on 9.x)Apps don't have weather and/or aren't widget based (or pleasing to the eye)Apps are for the iPhone not iPad, so don't look great.Don't let you change the interface/layout.So I've got tired of looking for the right app for this after setting up different accounts on loads of apps then finding they're not to my liking for one reason or another, and am wondering more if there's something like a web based tool that would give this sort of customisable functionality, or something I could install on my local network (even on my nas since that can run apps & services etc (synology diskstation)) that will give a local web page that the ipad could maybe just permanently display/interact with on safari or something?Grateful to hear what people would suggest for accomplishing what I want for this project. Maybe there's an existing app that can display modular/custom content, which would be ideal since it would keep the touch screen input for stuff like shopping lists etc?I'm going to mess about with Magic Mirror anyway and see what I can do with that, but appreciate any cool suggestions on different tools to try.Thanks! :)

Topic by Mr Joshua   |  last reply


Dead Sewing Machine or Dremel Tool Motor

A woman asked me to look at her sewing machine. The motor was dead. A new foot control did nothing. A dealer seemed disinterested in looking at it for repairs, but wanted to sell her a new machine for $700+. Attached is a photo of the commutator from her machine's motor after I cleaned it up enough to run again. After 15 years of use there was so much oxidation and contamination from brushes arcing that an Ohmmeter showed infinite resistance (open circuit) across the commutator, unless readings were taken on the brighter copper colored portions of the commutator. (The brushes are still good.) Then I got reasonable readings, indicating there was actually an unbroken circuit across the armature coils. Removing shrouds and getting to the motor was the most difficult part. Then I turned the motor by hand while I held 500 grit sandpaper on the commutator until it was clean and bright. The motor runs like new again. The owner is very happy. (I made this fix as a favor, not to gain income.)I had expected something like I found in a Dremel tool that quit working. With an Ohmmeter I found a break in the circuit between the field coil and a terminal pin. (I was able to bridge the broken connection and the Dremel workes again.) Another sewing machine did not run, and the problem was found to be a bad electronic circuit board no longer available. That machine had to be replaced.But, sometimes somethng so simple as a very dirty commutator is the only problem and is easily cleaned so the machine works perfectly again.

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply


Time HAS been going faster

Learned something today, i thought it was just me but, has anyone noticed how time seems to have sped up in the last few years? well thats because it has. December 2005 an earthquake actually sped up the Earth's rotaion. Kinda freaky, eh?

Topic by wingman246   |  last reply


ATX power supply to run a raspberry pi

Has anyone used a ATX power supply to run a raspberry pi with peripherals such as hdd's and dvd drives. If you have what considerations should I take into account, I found this howto here https://www.instructables.com/id/ATX--%3E-Lab-Bench-Power-Supply-Conversion/ but it's for making a lab power supply so not exactly what I need. Thanks

Topic by donestuff   |  last reply


I want some one to help me at making RC car controlled by wifi esp2866 and AVR atmega 32?

Greetings,iam mustafa,working right now as it technical support engineer for 3 years and 7 months .I have never made project for RC car or any project related to embedded systems as i was always scared and think that people who create these things are super smart and iam not smart enough .i always wish to work as embedded software engineer but i've never made a project in real life. i studied c programming and materials related with avr architecture and had many interviews but i fail always .At last interview, i'd failed and the interviewer asked me to do a project so that i get better .i decided to challenge myself and build an rc car .i asked a friend of mine to help me in project& i made a code using atmel studio IDE and simulator(proteus) to test my code..my code could move the dc motor right ,left and backward and forward till this moment on the simulator (proteus software) .After while i was sick and my friend was busy as he traveled abroad cause of his work.and iam very disappointed as i didn't finish my project .i get older and i want to make a shift career and work as an embedded software engineer but iam afraid that i won't achieve my dream . i hope this post will give me a hope to continue the path of achieving my dream careeri have bought this things: 4 DC motors 12 vwifi moduleH bridge moduleresistors and wires and breadboard===============================i hope that i find some one who is patient and keep an eye on me while i do the project .Thanks all

Topic by MustafaS72   |  last reply


"Oorja" Stove taking off in India

This is a stove being pushed by BP in rural India. It looks like an innovative product not just engineering-wise, but also in terms of marketing and distribution

Topic by nagutron   |  last reply


Convert broken metal bandsaw blades to hacksaw blades

My son-in-law had a broken metal cutting bandsaw blade. I did not want to bother trying to weld the broken blade, grind it smooth, and then try to temper it. I used a 12" hacksaw blade as a guide and drilled holes in the broken band. Cutting to length was easier than I expected. I used an ordinary tin snips. Drilling was easier than expected, too. I got three hacksaw blades from the band with a few inches of surplus.

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply


Car Wash with Arduino

Hello community,I'm glad to be a member of this community, and I hope I can contribute and add value to you guys. I'm planning to build a car wash from scratch using ARDUINO. Any ideas on type of motors, sensors, etc. since I'm new to programming and I took a quick course on Python and that's it. So please if you have any insights on this let me know. Thank you all

Topic by MIX l مكس   |  last reply


What is the best glue for plastic to leather?

Last winter I ripped the plastic sole from my skiing boot, and I would like to reattach it. It looks like it was originally held on by glue, and that is what I thought I should use.Any idea on what type of glue I should use for this?

Topic by Sedgewick17   |  last reply



Technology Makes Cheap Drinking Water from Air

INTRODUCTION:   How can we best apply basic technology to help the underprivileged and/or disaster-hit countries like Haiti? Daily hygiene and nourishment are among the top needs for disaster ridden regions!  Simply put, no water means no hygiene. The Romans understood that over two millennia ago and created their complexly beautiful aqueduct networks for handling both fresh and wastewater! Other ingenious water systems like “air wells” have been found in the city of Theodosia (cf: discovered in 1900 by Zibold, see Zibold’s Collectors/Dehumidifiers) dating back to Greco-Roman times during the Byzantine Empire. These were strictly passive systems that naturally dehumidified air, collecting its potable water in underground basins. All air, even in relatively dry desert regions, will precipitate or release its natural water content (initially in the form of vapor) through condensation when it hits its dew-point temperature and below. That means you “chill” it to an appropriate level that is anywhere from 5F to 50F below its current air temperature, depending upon how much water content (relative humidity) it has locally absorbed. The condensation of the water vapor releases its internal latent heat (reheating the cooled air) which must be constantly dissipated (absorbed by something) in order for water formation to steadily continue. So how do we dissipate this resultant vapor-heat and chill our air without any infrastructure or electricity, in an underprivileged or disaster-ridden region? We simply bury a long cast-iron or any metallic drain-pipe sufficiently underground where the temperature of the earth is naturally held to a constant at around 45F to 55F. That’s our “free” chiller gift from nature. One end of the pipe, Figure-1,  sticks out of the ground to suck-in local outside hot air, and the other end dumps cooled dry air and water into an underground cistern where it gets collected and is piped to the surface to both exhaust the cooled dry air and connect to a water pump. We need a hand operated water pump to lift up the water above ground, and we need an electric fan to constantly pump air through the ground-chilled piping system. We can even force the cooled piped air to exhaust into a tent-like structure where it provides air conditioning as an added bonus, but this adds the penalty of both power and the increased fan size necessary to drive our required airflow further into an enclosure! While this concept is not “passive” (requiring electricity to work) like those clever Byzantine air-wells, it will produce much more potable water and within a smaller volume than those elegantly passive historic devices. The electricity for our fan power requirements can be produced by any one of four ways using either “active” or “passive” techniques: 1) An active playground or bike-pedaling-person or oxen-driven mechanism-generator, 2) A passive windmill generator, 3) A passive solar energy collection system that directly generates electricity, or 4) A passive thermo-electric system that directly generates electricity using the Peltier effect, operating solely on temperature differences between the cell’s top and bottom surface (we jury-rig the cool pipe and hot ambient air to contact separate sides of the cell). Depending upon how much water is needed, the required air volume plus pipe length and diameter, together with the fan will be sized accordingly. We can also configure groups of parallel fan-driven air pipes that are radially fed into the cistern. The sizing of this underground network depends upon the ambient air’s local average temperature and relative humidity (how much water gets absorbed into the air) plus buried pipe depth and effective underground temperatures achieved. The basic concept is one where we “wring” water from air at some given humidity content. The higher its relative humidity the more water is recovered from the air. The air-wringing process simply chills the air as it scrubs along the cooled internal pipe surface until it starts to rain inside the pipe from condensation onto its surface. The condensation is like the dew that forms on car windows, grass or any cooled surface in the early morning, before the sun comes out and evaporates the dew back into the heating air. A further bonus is that our dew-formed water is naturally distilled and very clean. It is potable water ready to drink without the need for additional sterilizing agents. Of course, we must make sure that the interior piping and cistern network is biologically cleansed before burying it underground. The hand pump with its 10 to 15 foot extended piping to reach the underground cistern must also be cleansed. The beauty of this constantly replenishable water supply is its convenient underground installation anywhere! After the in-ground installation, we have a virtual, partially passive, no moving parts, non-breakdown system containing above ground total access to all moving parts that could breakdown, namely the water pump and electric fan. Also, it is easily maintained, with few moving parts (water hand-pump and electric fan) and basically lacking any technical complexity which makes it ideal for technologically backward regions. The example below uses a relatively small industrial fan moving air at 1500 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) with a DC motor rated at 1kW. This fan together with our underground piping system will conservatively generate 12 GPH (Gallons Per Hour) of potable drinking water without need for any purification chemistry. Based on an average electrical cost of 14-cents per kWh (kilo-Watt hour), the typical commercial distillation of one gallon of drinking water costs roughly 35-cents as compared to our cost of only 1.2-cents. Furthermore, if we decide to go green and use solar energy for generating our water, it would effectively cost us nothing beyond the initial installation! USING A PSYCHROMETRIC CHART TO SIZE OUR WATER SUPPLY: The following gets a little technical and is only provided for those die-hards who are truly interested in how the science works. Those non-technically schooled may skip this part and not miss the basic concept. Figure-2 shows a Psychrometric Chart for air. This chart summarizes some of the basic thermodynamic properties of air throughout its typical range of operating temperature. The chart uses six basic air properties that defines the physical chemistry of water evaporation into air:  (1) the enthalpy or total energy contained within a unit of air which is a combination of its internal and external energy, expressed as the amount of BTU-energy per unit mass of reference dry-air, (2) the specific volume or the ratio of a unit volume of local air to its mass of reference dry-air, (3) the humidity ratio or the amount (mass) of moisture in a local unit of air divided by its reference mass of dry-air, (4) the percent relative humidity per unit of local air, or the mass ratio (expressed in percentage form) of the partial pressure of water vapor in the air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at those conditions (the relative humidity depends not only on air temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest),  (5) the dry-bulb temperature or the locally measured air temperature, and (6) the wet-bulb temperature or saturation temperature which is the local air temperature experienced during constant water evaporation (a wet-bulb thermometer is typically used:   a thermometer that measures resultant temperature while wrapped in a water wet-gauze and spun to generate local air movement and max-evaporation)  1.0   The Process and A Sample Calculation Our Psychrometric Chart uses six thermodynamic properties that help to determine the amount of water available for extraction from the local ambient air as a function of its temperature, pressure and relative humidity.  Let’s assume the following local ambient conditions for the region we plan to construct our water system at:  (1) Typical daily air temperature Td = 106F and one atmosphere pressure assumed at sea-level, (2) Relative Humidity, RH = 55%, and (3) Typical underground temperature down at six feet is measured at Tu=55F (at 12ft. it drops to ~45F). This yields the following calculated results for obtaining a steady-state supply (changes at night) of water to fill the cistern:      1)      In our example, the “local” air (dry-bulb) temperature is Td=106F, at a relative humidity of RH= 55%.  Fig-2 indicates that the resultant Humidity Ratio is HR= 0.0253 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air (intersection of Td=106F line and RH=55% line, then horizontal to HR value).  We then determine the “gulp” of air volume containing the HR Lbs-water which corresponds to the point of intersection of Td and RH. Interpolating on specific volume “mv” yields mv=14.7 ft3/Lb-Dry-Air (this value sets the optimum unit airflow for our given ambient conditions, and creates a ballpark pipe length to diameter ratio needed later). It represents the basic unit of air volume that will enter our underground pipe per given time, and ultimately defines the size of our fan and piping network. For increased water creation, multiples of this unit volume will scale up the additional amounts of water that can be collected. 2)      As the inlet air cools down to a temperature of Tu=55F, from contact with the relatively cold underground pipe, we follow the constant enthalpy line (red upward left-diagonal) from the intersection of Td and RH to its saturated air temperature condition of Ts= ~88F, which is its dew-point temperature where the corresponding local RH=100%.  At this temperature or under, the air precipitates and releases its moisture content, resulting in water condensation onto the pipe walls.  Since our air will chill to a final pipe temperature of Tu=~55F, we follow the RH=100% saturated curve (green) down to yield an HR=~0.009 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air. This is how much water is left in the air when it gets to 55F.  Therefore for every pound of local outside air that enters the pipe, mw=0.0253 – 0.009 = 0.0163 pounds of absolute pure, distilled potable water precipitates onto the inside pipe wall (per pound of dry air that is cooled and dehydrated) to gravity-flow out the pipe exit and into the cistern. 3)      We now convert pounds of air per unit time into a unitized volumetric airflow that yields gallons of hygienically pure potable water production per unit time. For every Va=100 ft3 of local volumetric air movement per minute (CFM) through the pipe, which translates into ma=Va/mv= 100/14.7 = 6.8 lbs. of dry air per minute or 6.8 * 60 = 408 lbs. per hour (PPH), to yield a water-flow of mwf=ma * mw = 408 * 0.0163 = 6.65 PPH or 6.65/8.345 = 0.8 GPH of water.  An industrial fan rated at 1kW DC will typically move 1500 CFM at a pressure of 8-iwc, to continuously produce 15 * 0.8 = 12 GPH of pristine potable water. 4)      Not shown here are the design details of sizing our pipe, fan and solar collection system for electric power requirements using heat transfer principles coupled with a thermodynamic heat balance, and aerodynamic fan performance assessment. These details help to size the electric power generation requirements plus margin used to properly size a solar collector containing further margins for overcast days. The engineering involved here is straight forward but beyond the scope of the current project.

Topic by RT-101   |  last reply


Sick Axolotl

We have a white Axolotl with pink eyes .. we recently went on a weeks holiday found our Axolotl on the floor not sure how long he has been there, he was still moist and alive so put him back in his tank. He will not eat... Last night he started shedding his skin. This morning he was floating on his side and you could see pink veins all over him. I took him out of the tank and put in a Tupperware container ...Now he has started to get white patches under his mouth, on his tail and side and on his foot ... please help .... what can we do as we don't want him to die???

Topic by DeborahB122   |  last reply


Contests

Is there a time limit for how long after you publish an instructable, it can be entered into a contest? (if not, there should be...maybe a year) Is there a limit to the number of times the same instructable can win a contest? (if not, then it should be limited to once)

Topic by explosivemaker   |  last reply


DIY Circular knitting needles

I teach a knitting class at a federal penitentiary; while I've been able to get a lot of yarn donated, we still have very few needles (the only ones the inmates can use are wooden circular needles). I've been trying to make some myself from dowels and weed eater cord, but they look like c$?&, and the cord keeps coming out. If anyone has any ideas on how to make some, I would really appreciate it!

Topic by deesammom   |  last reply


Railbiking. Anyone built one?

I heard an interview today with author William Least Heat-Moon.  In his latest book, he meets a man who has built an outrigger bicycle he calls a "Railcycle", which he uses to ride on disused railroad tracks all over the world. Curious, I did some searching, and found a number of places on the web where people are talking about this, but they all seem outdated. Bentley Railbikes Railbike Tours Homebuilt Railbike Has anyone else heard of this practice?  Do you know of anyone currently making and riding such contraptions?  Do you have one of your own?

Topic by yoyology   |  last reply


Course for 3D pen

Hi,everyone:I am a teacher in primaly school in china,work as teaching 3D and arduino . Do you knowing of the course for 3D printing pen and arduino for primaly school sthdent, where can I to get it? I would like to make friends with someone who works as a maker education. if you do so,please pencil your contact method to me.Thank you!

Topic by 378621421   |  last reply


how to make a metal detector sensor for high sensitivity

Hi everyone Could you please help me... : ( how to make a metal detector sensor for high sensitivity examples of metal objects the size of 1mm the use of these sensors for metal detection in food security

Topic by RickyS18   |  last reply


Barackuda Internals

Alright, I grabbed some more internals for the latest version of the Barackuda. I can't believe it's already been over a year since the last time I updated my status update thread. It's sad that nothing much goes on here, but I'll still maintain activity as long as I have ideas. I bought a home in the summer and have since been doing adulty things but I've been looking for more hobbies, so I'm still interested in doing a K'nex gun building guide series for newbies. I otherwise haven't built much. But anyway. For those that don't know, which I imagine are few, the Barackuda (portmanteau of Barack as in Barack Obama and barracuda) is basically a compact bolt action repeater with a small, removable drum magazine. I believe this is the first time a magazine like this has been successfully implemented on a weapon. I spent years figuring out the design and trying to perfect it, never quite satisfied, but I really need to just throw it out there. I'll get full instructions eventually. Hopefully these will do for now. Sorry if some of the pictures ended up sideways. I was using my phone and rushing. Let me know if you'd like any other pictures.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


The course for 3D printing pen and arduino

Hi,everyone:I am a teacher in primaly school in china,work as teaching 3D and arduino . Do you knowing of the course for 3D printing pen and arduino for primaly school student, where can I to get it? I would like to make friends with someone who works as a maker education. if you do so,please pencil your contact method to me.Thank you!

Topic by 378621421 


Suggestion - Allow us to edit/submit "Rich Snippets" meta-description in search engine results

Rich snippets are "the term used to describe structured data markup that site operators can add to their existing HTML, which in turn allow search engines to better understand what information is contained on each web page". In plain English, it's what you see when you search for something in google. While it might not necessarily help with SEO all the time, it does help any potential viewer know what the link is about, and whether it's worth clicking on. While the subject can be a bit more complex, all I'm referring to here is the meta-description. Currently, the meta-description seems to be, by default, the first ~300 characters of the Instructable (or auto-generated by Google). If you write any sort of intro, it probably won't be relevant to help understand the project at all (out of context). Suggestion - It would be great to allow users to submit a meta-description via a simple text box, perhaps on the "Instructable Preview" window where the Cover Image can be changed. If they want they can submit a 50-300 character meta-description that better explains what the whole guide is about, or if not they can leave it blank for it to auto-generate as is already the case.Being familiar with WordPress, this would be a trivial plugin. I'm sure a site as big as Instructables can see the potential benefits (increased click-throughs, reduced bounce rates...), while also knowing that it wouldn't be intrusive to users or particularly hard to implement.Just wanted to give my opinion. Like in the attached image, it can be a bit frustrating to have no control over the meta-description since it isn't always representative of the project. In the case above where it was auto-generated by Google, it doesn't give any incentive at all to click since it doesn't make much sense as a description of the project.

Topic by MillennialDIYer   |  last reply


"Bug" - Issue with image importer converting .PNG files to .JPEG

Update: posting this topic further illustrated that something weird is happening with how Instructables handles images. The image as shown above shows both left and right sides with the text blurry. If you click on the image, the left stays blurry (as it should because it was) whereas the text on the right shows clear and sharp. I give up on the root of the problem, but it's frustrating how the image quality gets messed up.I put "bug" in quotations since you never know if it's a bug, unintended side effect, technical limitation or external problem. I'll let Instructables be the judge. Regardless, I thought it might be worth bringing attention to since I'm probably not the only one to have experienced it.While I use RAW images converted to JPEGs in Lightroom for my main project images, which tend to look beautifully, I normally use Canva to design my title images. Mainly due to being able to add text, shapes or any other elements in layers. Canva exports by default in .PNG format, which is probably the most popular image format after .JPG due to its support of transparencies and lossless compression. For that reason it's normally preferred for header images and graphics. I tend to use a ratio of between 4:3 and 16:9 to make things easier for the file uploader, as well as a longest edge of 1024px since that looks like it's what Instructables wants so it won't be resized. Despite trying to make things easy for the uploader, my title images have always been the blurriest, noticeably more so than the rest of the images or the image uploaded. Today I finally did some tests and found out that on import of .PNG files, the uploader noticeably deteriorates the quality of the image when converting it to JPEG, even if it isn't resizing it. A picture is attached as evidence. It seems to particularly affect portions which are highly saturated or text, greatly desharpening it. It makes a good image look like it's been carelessly edited. For the image to maintain its quality, I have to take the original .PNG and convert to .JPEG on my own (Photoshop), and then upload the .JPEG to Instructables (instead of the .PNG). As a user, what I'd optimally like to see done is: Fix the importer to properly support .PNG images without deteriorating the images. It is way too popular a format to not accept. I do realize it might be a Canva color space or other such issue, but it probably wouldn't be limited to that program anyway. Nonetheless, if this isn't possible, I'd be happy for the system to simply not accept .PNG and to throw-out an error message telling me to convert the images on my own and only upload .JPG. That would at least avoid image quality being inadvertently affected. Make available an up to date FAQ page where all information regarding images is available: what formats are natively accepted, what is the optimal ratio for images, what is the optimal resolution for images, to what sizes an image is resized on import, or any other relevant technical image details. I've researched this multiple times in the past and there are a lot of people with the same questions in the forum. Especially when it comes to sizes and ratios (cut off images, etc). Most of the information is from years ago (ex. 2010) and cannot be trusted to be up to date. Up to now I've uploaded plenty of 18 megapixel images when it is unnecessary given that the largest size shown, I think, is "LARGE" size at 1024px (I believe). A place to educate ourselves objectively on this particular site's preferences would be appreciated.Anyway, thought I'd comment this since it was a relief to finally find out the origin of the problem.

Topic by MillennialDIYer   |  last reply


Can I wire RGB LED flex ribbon with cat5?

I made 4 custom light boxes using rgb led flex ribbon, can I power and wire these using cat5 cable or is that too thin for 6 amp 12v power supply these things are going to? the longest run from one box to the powersupply will be 20 feet

Topic by Negativecreep0   |  last reply


Help! My low voltage, outdoor lighting wont light up - transformer error codes?

I bought a Portfolio 300watt transformer for low voltage outdoor lighting and hooked up a 100' 12 gauge cable (outdoor rated lighting cable) to it. Then I hooked up 4 low voltage lights (12volt 20 watts each). I plugged the transformer in to a gfi outlet that I ran out from the house. And turned it on. The little display flashes "E" and then "1" . The instructions say that the E means that there is a fire hazard so check the circut. So I unhooked every light except one. Same error. I hooked on a different light and unhooked the first one. Same error. Instructions say the cable needs to be under 250'. And the load less than 300w. I am there, except it won't run. Do I have a bad transformer or is there something that I am missing? Oh, and this is to light my haunt in my front yard, so I am running out of time! Thanks for any advice! Matt

Topic by mckeephoto   |  last reply


Anybody seen ? Can anyone help ?

I know this is vague but you never know stranger things have happened on the World Wide Web I found an instructable a while ago but due to the app not updating I seem to have lost it from my favourites Can anyone or has anyone seen this Instructable for a floating bench on a Circular foot. The maker had clamped lots of bits of timber to form a ring. See pic from My vague memory sorry about my artistic skills.

Topic by P5tan   |  last reply


Gifs just run once

On the drafts I am writing, I have noticed that the gifs I add run just once when I click on "Full preview". This is the case for the gifs added in the "regular" photo frame, but not for the gifs embed in the text (they are run in infinite loops). And I have the same problem with the last Instructable I have published (https://www.instructables.com/id/Universal-Arduino...), it looks like the gifs are played once then they stop.Is that a bug? I really like to add gifs to my articles to give a better overview of the project, but if they stop after few seconds or even less, I guess no one can see them...Thanks!

Topic by Matlek   |  last reply


Good bye my friends and subscribers

Due the still ongoing problems with the last site update I decided to extend my "holidays" from this website.Those who know me will also know that I always tried to asnwer questions to my projects quickly.Same for all those seeking help in the community forum but I am simply not willing to waste more time searching and fixing than actually answering.If things here change back to a usable forum and once user requests are at least considered by Autodesk feel free to ask me to come back.Until then I will have to find other things to do with my time.In the meantime I might still check on questions to my Instructables but not on a regular base.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Can you help me brainstorm a better way to make a vaulting barrel?

Hi, Thanks for your interest.I want to find someone to make a vaulting barrel. What is a vaulting barrel you may ask? It is a "fake horse" used in the sport of equestrian vaulting , which is gymnastics, essentially, on horseback. There are lots of instructions around involving the welding 55 gallon drums, etc. The problem is these barrels are very heavy and unwieldly. I am not persuaded this this is the best design. I am wondering, for example, could they be made from PVC or something else? Is there a better way to attach the padding? Can the handles be removable easily. The legs, adjustable. I would love to figure out a better approach. Here are the specsspecs (PDF) from the American Vaulting Association and here are some picturespictures.I would appreciate any advice. Thanks so much!muggle

Topic by Muggle   |  last reply


Pin-pointer metal detector front end not working.

Hi,I breadboarded the pin-pointer metal detector and am having trouble with the front end. pcounterA reads 11-14 on the serial port monitor.See previous question on instructibles reproduced below:_________________Asked by jont4e 2 days ago Hi, I bread-boarded your circuit for just the end coils to start, and loaded the sketch. It seems to be pulsing the coil OK but the leds aren't responding nor the buzzer. I uncommented the serial port code and it shows ledthreshold1 always at .97, pcounterA at 12, and calav1 at 81. Is this OK? (The other reported variables are always 1000.) I wound the end coils with some bifilar wire I reclaimed from a microwave HV supply transformer. I assumed that was OK? Do you have a flow chart or description of how the code works so I can troubleshoot? Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated. Jon T 0 Answer from TechKiwi... 2 days ago The pcounterA value should be much higher 200 to 800 at least. My advice is to focus on one channel. Try reversing the polarity of one of the coils as this often is the problem as the pulseIn function needs to have a clean leading edge to trigger the timing process. Ensure your breadboard connections to the coil are short and well grounded. If this does not work direct message me with a link to some photos of your setup and I will try to assist. I'm just building a second unit so your timing is fortuitous as I can provide some test measurements._______________________________Attached are images of the front end scope traces and a shot of the breadboard. Coils are off screen to the left.Swapping coil polarity did not seem to change any waveforms.Hope someone has some suggestions I can try.JT

Topic by jont4e   |  last reply


'Can I connect 2 TPA3118 60w Mono Module to create a Stereo Amplifier?'

This is the only amplifier I had lying around and since it was a mono amplifier, it only accepts 2 inputs. By using two boards at the same time feeding the same signal wherein the LEFT channel and GND goes to the 1st board and the RIGHT channel and same GND to the second board will it work smoothly as a stereo amplifier creating a 120w Amplifier? ~(Also, I'm using only 1 power supply to power the two boards.)

Topic by Chloe_Lemaire   |  last reply


Redirect to Amazon gift card scam

Links in email from 2/18 are being redirected to the page attached

Topic by pjbuilds   |  last reply


How Instructables Hooked Me Up

Has posting a project on Instructables and being a member of our community helped you nail an interview / get your dream job / propose to your partner /  get an A on a school project / muster up the courage to ask someone out?? We want to hear your stories! Please share them below

Topic by kazmataz   |  last reply


New updates look good, bravo!

There appear to be some fresh updates. From what I see: New photo layouts, which seem to make better use the screen space on desktop. Nice! Up-voting on comments! The old forum Questions now appear to be an aggregated list from questions asked on actual Instructable pages. That's an interesting tweak.High five to the Instructables team. Nice to see, keep up the good work!What else are people seeing that maybe I haven't noticed?

Topic by annieoakley   |  last reply


2 months delay in discussion notifications

My "Discussions" tab showed no changes for about two months, and then yesterday it dumped about two months of replies that people had made on my various comments I made on the forums here. I think that qualifies as a bug. I mean, ideally my "Discussions" tab would notifiy me of replies in a matter of hours, so I could reply to those replies in a timely fashion, if it was the sort of thing where someone was expecting a reply from me.I am guessing this problem was maybe related to the recent big "improvements" to the site, to make it more readable for mobile lusers, and other changes to make the site more comment-able, question-able, tip-able, by everyone.Just wondering: Has anyone else experienced this same problem, i.e. a several weeks, or months, delay in notifications of replies to your comments?

Topic by Jack A Lopez   |  last reply


favorites

 How do I add instructables to my favorites page? when I try and do it it tells me I ahve to be a pro member, but I know people who aren't pro members and they have favorites

Topic by Apple_4_life   |  last reply


Facebook - some things to consider before making full use of it....

As "A last Hurray" so to say I will do it one last time....What am I doing exactly you wonder and why do I bother writing it here?I will write a little story that is spiked with some information that I deem to be worthy to share.And I do bother to show my friends, followers and those who care what might have been a weekly or even daily thing otherwise :)At work recent changes and ongoing problems with our IT systems required that those who need contact with those in charge or above to sign up with Facebook.I tried what I could but Emails appearently don't always show if someone actually ready them and it was down to keeping my job or refusing Facebook.And yes, I tried to raise my concerns about privacy and control of it through the company...Anyway, let us start, shall we?Signing up for Facebook is as easy as asking Google for the name and to follow the obvious links.But those who know me can confirm that I take privacy seriously and that I like to question why someone thinks they need certain information.Which brings me to the point....Anyone these days is on Facebook with one or more accounts - this includes your boss, manager or anyone interested in your name, resume or other background info.Facebook provides just that, the chat and messages are as obsolete as anything else in terms of actually giving you privacy of any kind.When I signed up and was dumb enough to use a well known Email provider for my account details, I was shocked by the following offer.I was asked for my Email password to make signing in and finding friends easier!A quick but endlessly long search through the terms and conditions confirmed that indeed everyone in my contact list would be mis-used for data collecting and referencing - including the content of my Emails.Of course I had to reject this great function several times until Facebook got the massage that I like to keep control over my Email account.Thinking this was already enough for the day I rejected images and other private info, like where I was born, where I worked and such before signing off.Next day I suddenly had a list of friends as long as the shopping list of a childcare centre for thanks giving.At first I though I don't know any of them until I started to do what Facebook wants and looked the people up.Most where contacts I had on long dead messengers like the Yahoo! messenger.You can understand my confusion until I realised I had used the same Emal account for those messengers.Facebook simply reference their records of dead systems with my Email address and was happy to provide friends I really tried to avoid....The hardest hit however was when I realised that even contact backups I did from my mobile, using Google services, appeared.Thankfully most as possible friends but some directly added to my friends list, due to other links they found in their databases.Needless to say that even several of my skype contacts showed up...The last thing that confirmed why I avoided Facebook was the simple fact that all privacy options in the profile are set by default to public!Of course, if you don't mind stripping down your privacy to the entire world while Facebook is using the data for not always legal purposes you shall be fine.But if you only care a little then check the following, hopefully before stripping down:1. Never, ever type your Email password into anything coming from Facebook - no matter what reasons they claim!2. Before you complete your profile with address, phone number or similar, type in nonsense so you can get access to your account settings.After all Facebook does not bother to offer you privacy before you finnish your details and keeps nagging about adding more so they get the vital data they need first....3. Check all account settings in regards who has access!Unless you really want to strip down noone but your friends should have any access to anything.And even for that you should make sure to enable the function to review them before you allow them to show up on your page, history or elsewhere.Things to always keep in mind:1. Your account is not yours as Facebook has all rights to it, you can not even request to have your informations deleted from their databases or remove your account for good.2. Anything your friends see on your page or profile they can share, like or comment on.This means that even if don't like it, it can spread through the community within seconds and as a worst case ruin your life.3. Anything Facebook does or offers, like games, recommendations, things you should know about, have only one goal: To gather more information about you.Like for example using your Google cookies to find out what search for on the web or watch on Youtube....4. Things you like attract more things you might like, again mostly to gather more info about you, your personality, preferences and your friends.Ok, I know!You are using FB for years, have tons of friends there and keep updated about every minute of their life they share...So there is little to no chance to see what I am talking about LOLBut I would not post all this openly without a backup plan ;)If you really dare to challenge me on this then you might have to waste several hours of your precious time, but I think it is worth your time!This is how the game is played:1. Find someone older who does have a vital Email life of sorts but so far no use for Facebook.2. Ask kindly for his support on a test with Facebook that might require him to forawrd correspnding Emails to your account.3. Clearly state that neither his email or FB account will be used to post anything, add friends manually or give out any info the person does not feel confortable to share.4. Point out the possible benefits of having FB with the option to use the persons real name so he can continue using FB after the test if considered a good thing to have.5. If you manage the above successfully then only use the provided name, email and residential address to create a new account.6. Observe and wonder about the things to come.....You will notice that usually quite soon possible friends or persons that could be connected show up.Also that FB will continue to ask about the history, like schools, work, places.If you do an online search on the name often takes less than a week to get a hit refering to FB.The more info about the person you offer FB (with consent!!) the more people will show up to be considered.At this stage and I guess in less than two weeks time after creating the account comes the question about how to continue.Show the person what and who is already present in the created account and if there is an interest to keep the acount for personal use.If so, kindly ask the person to add a friend or more, fill out more details, provide a picture and so on.Hand over full control to the account either by asking the person to change the password and not let you see or know it.Again, ask kindly to get some future updates, screenshot or similar to see how the account evolve, or add yourself as a friend and keep track that way.I do not suggest in any way to create an account without consent!This includes all activities that might seem harmless:Don't use the identity of someone you "found somewhere"!Don't create a fake account, especially not in the name of someone popular or someone that might be harmed in any way by your creation - the person might have good reasons not to appear on FB!If you don't have Facebook already feel free to use to do the test with your own details!Never, ever use pictures that are not your own or that you don't have the explicit permission to use even if you took them!

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Awesome stuff you can do with high-speed internet?

So I recently thought up the idea that I can get free high speed internet at the computers at the public library in town (I can only get dial-up at my house). I have to ride my bike a few kilometers to get into town but I can get like 100 KB/s!! Gah, I wish I'd thought of this a long time ago. When I went in yesterday I just downloaded a bunch of crap. I got 60 MB of stuff, mostly podcasts, in about ten minutes. That would've taken me over five hours to get on my dial-up. But is there any thing else that I should try, other than just downloading a buttload of stuff? I've never had broadband, so I'm kinda just dumbfounded by the possibilities.

Topic by Aeshir   |  last reply