So I got really mad and tore it off and I wanna fix it to make it look cool for school, so how can I?
Question by Cupcakes4lif | last reply
So I got really mad and tore it off and I wanna fix it to make it look cool for school, so how can I?
Question by Cupcakes4lif | last reply
I already had a quite long Ible in the making when it downed on me that not too many people should actually create such a dangerous substance at home.So instead I decided to just write a bit about the history, general procedures and what is possible or not.If you already made your own chilli exptract for a special hot sauce or your home made pepper spray then you feel right at home.Those who never done anything like it or at least some essential oil extractions might just find some other interesting stuff to read.I won't go into all details here as those with the basic knowledge will already know the precautions and most things.Capsaicin...The stuff that makes your exes run, clear you nose and makes you sweat like you on fire.At least if it comes within you favourite dish.In the pure form it is a severe irritant and should be handled like explosives or concentrated acids.You just won't make a mistake with this stuff twice - trust me!What really harms you is not the capsaicin itself, it is your bodies reaction to it!It stimulates the same nerves responsible to feel heat and pain, sometimes those for a severe itch as well.And unlike a normal reaction you would get from hot water, it won't stop until it is fully removed.Even after this the body keeps reacting for bit longer.On the skin you can end up with blisters like from a real burn, in your airways it can make breathing impossible!And lets just say that swimming goggles won't look as dumb and funny on your face once you realise you got some fine crystals on your face....If you dare to continue then I assume you are well aware of the risks, dangers and PPE requirements!Pure or extract?I checked tons of so called instructions on how to make pure or 99% pure capsaicin from chilli peppers.They all just produce a really crude mix of goo that happens to have a lot of capsaicin in it.If it is red or even darker it is nowhere near pure.If it has a weird smell that has really nothing in common with chilli than it is even worse.If it is more or less colorless, with a very strong scent that your nose does not like at all then we are getting somewhere.So why is it that we always end up with this color that is impossible to remove?Extracting chilli peppers....A thing most people ignore a bit when in a hurry is that an alcohol extraction requires DRY alcohol.You just won't tolerate water in it, which is why often methanol comes easier and cheaper than ethanol.Some people even think just because the alcohol is either evaporated or distilled off that all is good when using things like methylated spirit.Ever had the problem that you used that stuff and your hot sauce made you vomit after realising that it comes with a bad and extremely bitter after taste?That is the stuff that makes your home depot ethanol unuasable ;)If you use homegrown or otherwise fresh chilli you need to fully dry it first!Don't be fooled by people stating they did it with fresh peppers.What you get this way is some of the worst extractions you can get.Don't be fooled to think you need some Carolina Reaper either.A big bag of chilli powder from your grocery store will do just fine.So what is all in our extract?Alcohol or any other solvent usable for a capsaicin extraction also dissolves a lot of other things.Like the beta carotenes that give the extract the organge to red color.The skin and the entire fruit also contains oils, plus the shiny outside is mostly due to wax...All of this ends in your extract....You not only get what you want and might not mind but also everything else you don't want.Making the difference....The impossible we do right away, for miricles or wonder allow a day or two of processing ;)Assuming you end with a rather large qauntity of alcohol the concentration of everything is relatively low.If you used something like a Soxhlet extraction you already degraded a lot of the capsaicin due to the heat.And even after the best filtering you might have a clear solution but whatever is not a solid is still in there.Imagine you would put it all into a freezer....Surprisingly a lot of stuff won't stay in solution once cooled down enough.Especially if you give it a few days.Depending on what you started with you either get a slimy looking sludge or some crystals showing.Either way it needs to be filtered out and washed.For the washing use the same pure alcohol as before but make sure it is well cooled.If any cacsaicin was already forming crystals then they will be washed into your solution again now to a little extend.But you removed an awful lot of the wax if it was not capsaicin already. ;)Testing the slurry we collected.When using chilli powder from the shops I noticed that there is often no wax to be found at all.While for fresh produce the content is significant.Once dry you make a simple test with water.Capsaicin basically does not dissolve in water, so it would sink to the bottom while wax floats ;)I assume you ended with little to no wax but fine capsaicin instead.From the natural form it is very hard to get crystals bigger than a dust particle.This only happens if the temperature is cold enough and the concentration high enough.As my entire setup is quite small I usually prepare several 500ml plastic bottles that I fill to one quarter by height with chilli powder and then fill up to half with methanol.In the end I use a full 1kg bad of chilli powder but only a may of 5 to ten bottles.Making the most of it.When using alcohol extraction you want to use a little of the solvent as possible.Use means here wasting it instead of recycling it.Once I filtered my white slurry out I destill the remaining solution to reduce it by 50-75%.An almost dark red color is usually when it is time to stop.After this I place it back in the freezer for a day to check if more crystals or slurry forms.If so then I filter it off again.What is left is then mixed with recycled and fresh methanol to soak more chilli powder in my bottles.Means I discard the filtered of chilli poweder once washed, recycle what I can from the methanol and keep whatever the slurry produces that is not wax or dissolves in water.Depending with how much chilli you start you will get to the point where your filtered solution is already dark red.Since the final capsaicin won't dissolve in water you can destill with some added (destilled) water.This way you recover the alcohol without risking to get a sticky goo everyhwere that you need to clean off.It is quite possible to get some more capsaicin this way as with the alcohol leaving it will participate out.Simply filter the solution once the alcohol is recovered.As the beta carotenes won't dissolve well in water either it is best to perfom this destillation while all is mixed.If you can't do this then don't worry to much, it just means a few more minutes of cleaning later ;)Testing the final product....What you have left once the slurry is dried should be almost colorless with maybe a pale yellow in it.Fully dried it should appear as basically white.There should be no smell to it, nothing to tickkle you nose.Colorless and odorless.For whatever reason I still sometimes end up with a very faint smell.Not really chilli though...Depending on the temperature the products is either quite hard to almost britlle (when frozen) to almost wax like at room temp and above.I highly recommend against testing whatever you have on your skin or to ingest it!!!Waste some sauce base like ketchup (you can add it later to your sauce again) or some butter - I prefer the later.Butter become liquid well below the 65°C celsius decomposition temp for capsaicin, so it should dissolve very easy in it.Take a shot glass with just enough butter for a sandwich and dip a toothpick into your product.Make sure there it a tiny bit on it and not that the toothpick has a thick coating!Once cooled down while mixing every now then spread it on some sandwich and take a bite.After a minute or two you should definitately feel a difference to just butter - hopefully not too hot.If nothing happens repeat with a bit more on the toothpick.Still nothing at all usually means you filtered out only by-products and for some reasons managed to make the capsaicin disappear.Hints and tips that might safe your bacon....Methanol boils at about 64°C, ethanol at about 77°C.Capsaicin starts to decompose at 65°C.Not a big deal but if you get to the 80° mark, which is easy which ethanol you might have to use evaporation instead of destillation and waste the alcohol to your surrounding air...Water...For the final product it is not a problem but during the extraction process it is.Despite some people claiming otherwise both the quality and amount of what you end up with are lower.It seems some of the capsaicin binds to the water molecules with the help of some other stuff that the plant material provides.And when you try to destill a solution that was contaminated with water from the chilli it tends to foam up quite badly.While with pure alcohol and fully dried product there is no foaming.What to expect when collecting the end product...At room temperature you can dissolve what you get in product from one kg of dried chilli powder in under 10ml of pure alcohol.However at -20°C next to nothing dissolves in the alcohol.That means as long as you have still over lets say 1000ml alcohol extract then very little will participate out.Just one reason why I prefer to work with small batches - keeps the concentration higher from the start.The more you destill off and re-use the higher the capsaicin concentration in the alcohol will be.So before you start to add any water for the destillation you need to be aware of the consequences.I found out that first destilling most of the alcohol off the single rounds that got too dark in color helps.I just collect this conentrate for the final destillation process.Key is to destill this off to the point where it just starts to thicken up a bit.It should still be liquid but act almost like a thin oil.You don't want it so thick that is crates a coating on the walls when you move the liquid around.In case it did happen just add a tiny amount of alcohol again.Put in the freezer for a few days....Empty into your filter and let as much as possible drip out.Rinse with as little alcohol as possible - have the rinsing alcohol at -20C as well .Do not wash the filter with water but with the frozen cold rinsing alcohol.Cover the filter up and leave in a cool place for the next run - have something under it as it might still let a drip or two off.The remaining liquid leave to evaporate off until it just starts to thick up again a tiny bit - back in the freezer for a day or two.Filter out again then while still a bit wet turn the filter over to remove most what is in it.I prefer to empty onto a teflon sheet and to wear full PPE here....While still wet you try to remove more from the filter with a fine but short brush, knife or whatever you find suitable.Do not continue any action once the stuff starts to dry!Place the filter into a sealed bag and leave in your freezer for when you do anthoer extraction - this way you loose far less product ;)When doing a final destillation with added water to cover all the alcohol you are left with the remains of the original product, minus all solids.Beta carotene is quite beneficial, so it would make sense to include it into your hot sauce.Plus there will always be some leftover capsaicin in it.If you want to use this part of the extract as well to really get what is possible then IMHO slow is better.You can't just destill off or boil off the water to get a nice "sauce" base.The capsaicin that is left would be mostly decomposed and with no effect anymore.A clear sign of too much temperature is bad smell that really turns you off.Hard to define in words but trust me, if you smell it you know what I means as you woul refuse to have this smell coming from your final hotsauce.During the summer it no problem to just leave it out to evaporate in the shade !You can do it in full sun but must make sure no sunlight gets into the liquid.UV decomposes at least a lot of the karotenes....Special equippment at hand? If you happen to have a vacuum pump or at least a salvaged fridge compressor you can safe a lot of time.A buchner filter for 500ml in the top is quite cheap but you can build something similar with a normal funnel.Look it up it you want...A proper buchner filter however already comes with a very fine glass filter built in.Means you don't really need any filter paper - I still add it as it makes the cleaning easier.Instead of waiting several hours for gravity to do its work on a coffe filter you are done in a few minutes.Well worth trying out!For the water destillation of the remaining end product, or by-product if you like, vacuum also helps.CVD or Closed Vacuum Destillation sound complicated but is really simple.One pressure vessel is filled with the solution to be conectrated, the other is kept empty.Connected with a suitable pipe or hose and fully sealed.The extract is heated to about 40°C while the empty vessel is placed into an ice bath.With the pump and the help of a valve create just enough vacuum so create small bubbles in the heated vessel.Close the valve and a few hours later there should be far less water in the hot one while the frozen one builds up ice.Every now and then check the vacuum gauge and if require start the pump again.You can do with just the pump and one vessel....Problem is that the oil in your pump will quickly get far too contaminated with water.You could add a conatainer with something like an absorbent but it would have to be sufficient for all the water you need to remove.Most of all it must be able to absorb it fully before the airstream enters the compressor.The benefit is that the capsaicin can't decompose at all.In a vacuum or close to it anyways, a lot of the things that procude smell also disappear through the compressor.Won't help it was already a stinky mess but will certainly reduce the smell of the concentrate.If you prefer to keep this aroma for your final sauce then do not use a vacuum.Why not a Soxhlet or similar device as used for essential oil extraction?The benefit seems to be clear:You have a relatively large vessel to hold a lot of chille powder and can let the alcohol cycle and wash it out completly...Theory is not always reality.....Firstly the alcohol runs through it many times while it dissolves what it can from the powder.That means each round you actually wash with a higher concentration until there is equal amounts in the alcohol and the powder.You waste about 50% of the end product unless you repeat it all several times with fresh alcohol.Worst of all however is the temperature, even if you use methanol.To make the alcohol evaporate enough to make the process work properly and in a timely fashion it must be heated to above 65°C, in most cases even with a proper heating mantle you won't have the temperature control tight enough.It is quite possible to destroy 70% of the capsaicin this way....The condesers used are also not really suitable for these low temperatures.Means you should use ice water to cool.Either way you will loose a lot of what could otherwise be product.Funny things that might stumble you along the way.In the freezer the solution will participate out a bit.However, when back to room temperature most if it will still be there, only a fraction goes back into solution.I could not figure out why this happens but once heated to about 40°C it all dissolves again.Filter fully blocked by the product?The fine sludge can be a problem even with a proper vacuum filtration unit.Especially if the product is still not really a solid once fully dried.A paper filter can be re-used many times but whatever makes it past and into the glass filter is tricky.You should not get much here if the paper filter was fine enough but if it builds up to the point where it makes the filtration long and slow:Remove the paper filter and add a small amount of luke warm alcohol.If it does not start to trickle through already give it a minute or two before turning the vacuum on.Starts a bit slow but should clear up quickly, if in doub repaet with a large volume of alcohol.I prefer to do this cleaning before I start a new bag of powder or whever I need to restock.Means I can use the same alcohol I had to clean the filter to add to the bottles with powder ;)Nothing gets wasted if you are prepared....If you find any typos in the above then feel free to keep them.However if you decide to use the typos for monetary gain I would kindly ask for 5% of the net profit made from my typos.;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Today I logged onto Instructables for the first time in three long years. Damn, the nostalgia hit me HARD. I remember when the K'NEX gun community was still active. Man, those were the days. Waking up to start building on a new gun was the highlight of my day. I would build literally every gun I could find. Knex Lego Maniac, Killer~SafeCracker, dr. richtofen, The Red Book of Westmarch... those were the big names. They made quality guns all the time. Whatever happened to this community? Why did it have to fall apart??If anyone from the OG K'NEX gun community is still around and sees this, please go ahead and send me a message. I miss this stuff so much you don't even know.
Question by The Knex Inventor | last reply
Big news for the iPhone and iPod touch owners! Hulu is finally developing an app for the iPhone.From cNet news...Silicon Alley Insider is reporting that a dedicated Hulu application is indeed on its way to the iPhone and should be here in just a few months.SAI says the application will work over Wi-Fi and AT&T;'s 3G network, meaning that users will be able to view programming anywhere with a fast data connection.Rumors suggesting that an iPhone-friendly version of Hulu swirled around this time last year, however, they predated the launch of the App Store, and Hulu flat-out denied that one was being worked on.This time around, though, it's far more plausible, with the upcoming iPhone OS 3.0 software update, which lets developers bake streaming media into their applications. For Hulu, this means that the advertising could be stuck into the mobile stream and that users would be able to watch videos without leaving the application.One of the things that keep this rumor from holding water is that Hulu is in direct competition with Apple's iTunes business. Users of Hulu can watch ad-supported, full-length television shows and movies on their personal computers for free, instead of paying Apple to download a copy for offline viewing.If such an app were available on the iPhone, it would also offer portable TV and movie watching, something not yet offered in Apple's own mobile iTunes app, which is limited to video podcasts. In past instances of this, the company has simply denied applications such as Podcaster from making it through the app approval process, only to launch it as a first party feature later on.On the other hand, some of Hulu's competitors have already gotten a foot in the door, including Joost and CBS-owned TV.com, which has its own iPhone application that streams in content in chunks. In addition, Google's YouTube, whose application comes preinstalled on the iPhone, has recently reached an agreement with major studios, including Sony Pictures, Lions Gate Entertainment, and CBS (publisher of CNET News), to offer visitors full-length TV shows and feature films.If Hulu can't manage to pull off getting advertisements in the stream, using this system, it would be fairly simple to force users to sit through advertisements between clips.Link.
Topic by Gjdj3 | last reply
Hi, just bought my young grandson a hoverboard and kart attachment. Trouble is these things go at quite a speed, for safety sake I would like to add the above device in case he heads for a wall 😱 How can I do it? all replies are appreciated. 👍
Question by TN1946 | last reply
Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :DIs there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended?We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests. P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :)Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?
Topic by randofo | last reply
Edit: The solution for the MT with the Bosch CF650-7 ECU is suprisingly simple.I managed to get the intended poer without the requirement to flash the ECU.You can find the steps I took over at D.I.Y Forums.When it comes to motorcycles with restrictions then Australia seems to be pretty much alone in the world.Despite an abundance of bike to choose from that would fit weight/power limitations it seems to be common to go overboard here.As a result basically all popular motorbikes up the 650ccm hit the AU market in a restricted form if they don't match the limitations by default.For someone in the US just reading this might sounds like a useless concept to get people to learn how to ride a motorcycle.As a fully licensed rider and being on a budget a bike for just over half the price of a Japanase model is still tempting.And for general touring use the MT is actually quite a comfortable bike.Big downside is the impossiblity to get certain bikes in an unrestricted form.For the Cfmoto's of the older type, running the Ducati ECU it is as simple as adding a suitable fuel/ignition tuner module and removing the physical restrictions.The newer models from 2017 onwards use a more reliable Bosch ECU though.With them it is appearently possible to use BWM tuning module but with the requirement to do a full remap on a Dyno.The 2018 MT is my bike, so I will focus on this, but the gerneral things are identical on all the Cfmoto 650 models.A word on the legal things first....Outside AU none of this concerns you as your Cfmoto will come unrestricted anyways.Within AU however we are subject to several laws that make the legal modification of a so called LAMS motorcycle virtually impossible.You can even put a different exhaust or airfilter on them without risking to loose your license and get some hefty fines.As a fully licensed rider however the law often turns a blind eye on these things as they don't really matter as long as they won't affect the safety of the bike, rider or other road users.With the plated riders out for now, let's focus on the options for a fully licensed rider, shall we?There is no need for a RWC or anything if you already owned the bike in the LAMS version.But if you try, for example, to go to Vicroads and have the registration details changed to reflect that the bike is now running with it's full factory default power, or a bit more you are lost.Two reasons for this.Firstly Cfmoto did not bother to import and register for road use any unrestricted version of the 650's.Secondly the VIN number and engine number are fixed in a database for LAMS only bikes.You would need a full engeneering certificate to register the bike in any modified version that affects the power output or reduces the weight of the bike.Sets you back about 10.000 dollars and still won't garantee that Vicroads actually transform it into a legal, unrestricted bike.The police has little to no interest in what a fully licensed rider does to a bike - within the usual limits of course.And since you would not sell the bike without fully reverting it back to the LAMS state the risk of prosecution can be fully minimised:If your insurer agrees to provide full comprehensive cover once the bike is (properly) reverted to what the international models are it is down to serious accidents that might still cause trouble.For example when you cause severe injuries to someone else the bike would be checked for modifications that could have had an influence on the accident.My insurer explained it like this:If the bike is checked roadworthyness after an accident it would fail because it is no longer LAMS compliant.That would automatically default the rider to be responsible for the accident even if not at fault at all.With that it is mandatory to have all the details about the modifications listed and validated in the insurance policy!Adding a tuning module for example would mean providing a fully Dyno chart with a safety confirmation from a licensed vehicle tester.For example the confirmation would state that a power Commander with Auto Tune module was installed together with a slip on exhaust system.Bike specifications allow for the save use with said modifications based on the results of the Dyno runs.With that the rider is put back into legal territory as the insurer stands for the roadworthyness of the modifications.It certainly helps to just stick with the default options and to provide the Cfmoto cert copy from the same international version of the bike.A plated rider should never attempt any of this as it still means there is no way to get away - legally and financially!Possible tuning options for the LAMS versions:Adding one the usualy tuning modules is not only pain but also costly if done properly.Being a LAMS bike you will have a hard finding a reputable shop to install a tuning module for you.Doing it yourself can be tricky, especially if you consider that the default wire colors are often different on the bike.Takes a few hours to check the wiring diagram, follow and measure connections and then to finally risk starting the bike....It works though if you know what you doing.Biggest downside is that you won't find any ready to go maps that you can use.And trust me trying to modify fuel or ignition maps yourself is not for the faint of heart and only an option if you a) know what you are doing and b) have the tools for it.There is a good chance the bike actually runs worse than without the module.Now the obvious solution would be to go for some Dyno runs and to have it all setup properly.Again, with a LAMS bike you will have a hard time finding a licensed and reputable shop to take your bike in.If you find one that does it anyway than it really is best to go for the full package and to suck the costs up.Let them supply the required modules, sensors and all, deal with the airbox and throttle limiter.Then have the usual 3-4 Dyno runs to get the mapping done properly.This approached worked perfectly fine for the older bikes using the Ducati ECU.The new models with the Bosch ECU might still struggle to accept the tuning changes.Reason for this is the checking of literally all sensor informations.Means the tuning module must cater for this and not just fool the O2 and TPS sensor readings.Just removing the throttle limiter and airbox restrictions will cause the bike to run too hot very quickly and also puts your ECU into a lean default mode once you see ECU errors flashing on the dash.Real tuning options that won't have a chance to harm the engine:With all models available internationally and without any restrictions it is relatively easy to find a wrecker in the US, EU or even Asia to supply parts from crashed bikes or those confiscated for destruction by dismantling them.If you are a fully licensed rider and after a bargain or love your first bike so much that you want to keep it once the plates are gone:Organise the ECU, airbox and throttle body from any part of the world except Australia.Sometimes you even find them on Ebay so pay attention to the sellers home country (some AU sellers go international and would then just get the same what is already in your bike ;) )!!Why not just the ECU you ask?Our airbox has added restrictors, just removing is not the best option as they are also responsible for causing required turbulences in the airflow.A straight through or even pot filter option would again require ECU tuning.As said, talking stock here...The throttle body might not be required to get the full power the bike is intended for but you never know for sure.If in doubt pay a few bucks more and have the injectors and sensors included as well ;)But why would I want to pay for a throttle body if it is not 100% certain I would require it?It would'n t have the screw hole for the throttle limiter ;)This tiny detail can be of importance if you go the full lenght, more on that later.With those three components (or two if you want to go without the throttle body) you have a stock international version of the 650.Makes it relatively easy to convince your insurer that the bike is safe to use in this configuration.Adding just a slip on is no problem either as the normal ECU runs quite rich in the higher RPM's anyway and the new exhaust would not make too much mess here.But adding a less restrictive airfilter will need Dyno tuning.Going the full length, especially interesting if you buy a second hand Cfmoto.It will take you a lot of Emails and some overseas phone calls but it is possible to find a wrecker that can sell you the registration plates for the frame of the bike - legally if said wrecker is allowed to sell frame number for rebuilds.Adding this plate to your order means your second hand bike can be deregistered, sadly this means unless you pay extra you need to hand in the numberplates as well.No big deal however if the bike comes without numberplates anyway.Once you installed all parts and replaced the frame ID plate you take the bike for normal RWC check and get your green slip.With that you go and ask to register your bike with new (or your old) numberplates.The Vin will not show up in their database and a red flag comes up, prompting some questions from the offcial behind the counter.The bike you know have is an imported model you got for cheap when you saw it for sale in some carpark with a blown engine.As the actual engines are identical you replaced the blown engine with one from an AU bike that crashed and was written off.In return you now pay a slightly higher than usual transfer fee but get the bike registered as he international model without LAMS restrictions.Even the engine showing up as a LAMS engine is of no concers here as there is no legal reason to not allow the use of a lower powered engine in a motorcycle.You insurance polcy will also go up a few bucks but that is not really worth crying about now anymore.Once you go out with your numberplates you can enjoy a legally derestricted (imported) Cfmoto.Ok, I got it an I say I am a fully licences rider that does not care too much and wants to go as cheap as possible...A brand new ECU from China sets you back about $400AU.Downside is that you are never 100% certain the mapping will fit what is installed on your bike.There might be differences for the US or EU market, not so much though for Asia - so ask for what market region the ECU is intendet and prefer the Asia market here.The airbox limiters should be safe to remove but you might have to make simple plates up to install so the air turbulences are within specs - you will notice if the bike runs really crappy in the high revs and struggles to provide power to the wheel...Unless Cfmoto actually include more limitations in or around the throttle body going with stock should be fine - flashing ECU error will tell you if not.Postage from China can be a pain, not so much for time it takes but for the money charged to use proper and trusted courier services.Up to $100 just for postage is not uncommon but also means the parts are your within a week or 10 days most.Some provide cheap flat rates but both have the risk of being asked to pay import duties if held by AU costoms.Going second hand from some wrecker outside AU can be slightly cheaper for the ECU but again postage can a pain on the pocket.The obvious downside is that the bike with such a simple and direct mod would be still a LAMS bike and if checked make it illegal to use with all the corresponding consequences for the rider - even if fully licensed, please check the above insurance part again if you must.If done properly and maybe even with a slip on: what gains are we talking about in actual figures on the wheel?To be honest not really that much at all, the bike is just too heavy.But the response will improve noticable!The bike pulls out of corners with ease now and no longer requires you shift through the gears with a screaming engine.Imagine you have a small, 4-cylinder car and went on a long holiday trip with your heavy camping trailer always attached.Holidays are over, you unhook the camper and go for a quick run to the shops for supplies.It is that wow feeling that you get when you take off with the weight gone...The gears run higher with a more evenly distributed power instead of just a narrow window of RPM's with enough power to pull away.The KW and RPM values are available on the Cfmoto homepages.What about top speed?I managed to get to a full 110km/h !! ;)For anything above that ask your local Dyno please or pay for a day on the track.What if the police gets me and makes trouble because of the modifications?A well trained officer in a bad mood will always be your nightmare.So I won't go into the troubles if you still need plates or just got your full license a few days ago...You are allowed to ride any road legal motorcycle, no matter the power ratings.However, a really pesky cop wanting to go by the full book on you will use the computer to check your bike and registration details.And if he knows the most obvious non-legal mods to LAMS bikes, like the shiny exhaust you will need a lift home.Chances are though that a clean driving record and having your full license for a few years indicates that you actually know how to handle your bike properly.That is the point where your honesty and details with the insurance company matter.Preferably with you having a copy of your policy with you when riding the bike.With that you can always argue the modifications are documented and approved by your insurer and corresponding vehicle tester.Makes it then only a minor offence for not being LAMS conform.The paperwork to fight you on what your insurer singed off for is just not worth it with a possible drunk driver getting past while you argue....Legally they can still book you or even take the bike but do they ever bother to take those Harleys or street racers with screaming exhausts you hear from miles away before you even see the bike? ;)As said, it comes down to a LAMS offense that is fully covered by your insurer and with that not really worth making a big fuzz about.If you got pulled over for speeding or other offenses the story will be different though as it then could be argued you made these modifications with the INTENT of illegal activities - like speeding or pulling stunts that are not allowed on public roads.Here you insurer can refuse the cover the same way they would for the same offences on a fully legally unrestricted bike.Is it worth taking the risk?No, it is not!If you are after a bike with good handling and power you would not ride a Cfmoto...As a true LAMS bike the resale value is actually quite good if the bike is kept in good condition.Modified you will have a hard time selling it as no learner would take the risk - a working brain assumed here.For a keeper once fully licensed or someone on a budget it can be quite tempting.After all, it leaves a nagging feeling if have a full license and sit on a restricted bike....You always have to explain what you ride and why anyway every time you pull over where chatty bikers are around.Selling the bike in good condition and maybe together with the extras you got over the years might be enough to justify the extra for a second hand bike from Asia, Italy or Austria and give you more leasure and pleasure in the long run.Doing it properly and in the most legal way costs quite a few bucks.If you add this to the current asking price of around 7500 ride away will add at least another $1500.Depending on the exhaust system even more.If you require proper identification and tracing of things like VIN plates it can be clse to $2000.At this point you already see really only makes sense it is a cheap second hand bike, whicj makes the entire approach a bit questionable anyway.With now close to $10.000 for a new bike the difference to a well known brand with maybe a better reputation is not that big anymore.The bike would already be unrestricted and making road legal modification wouldn't interest anyone.Not to mention of course the warranty issues as Cfmoto won't honor any of it if you modify new LAMS bike!Now add the possible costs for repairs or parts that would otherwise be free and free of labour costs and the bargain becomes very expensive before the warranty period is over.There will be the point where you ask yourself why did you bother in the first place....Warranty....Once modded the factory warranty is void so to say.Problem here is that the law is intentionally unclear on the reasons and options applicable here.As the bike would (without exhaust mod) be just like any international model the law states the warranty must be granted.However, Cfmoto has the right to refuse it anyway based on the exclusions required by law to prevent non-LAMS conform bikes from getting back on the road.A blown engine with a proper service history would be no big deal without this.The right to refuse a free warranty replacement for covered parts if the bike was not serviced by a licensed dealer is something car manufacturers already failed with.Cfmoto however will argue that their terms and conditions always superseed any Australian laws or regulations unless it was legally shown that one or more sections are actually invalid in Australia.This includes any evident or suspected tampering with the LAMS restrictions.If in doubt an ECU reading would indicate the impossible throttle positions used and the different ECU.Means even once the warranty is over you can't really take your bike to your dealer for a service or just a check without risking troubles.Some say this is still not enough to deter restricted drivers, I say that any fully licensed rider should have the right to enjoy his bike without LAMS restrictions.But if in doubt Cfmoto is always right, no matter how they argue.Last words from the wise camel....If you are fully licensed it is entirely your choice what you do with your bike and how you deal with - or interprete possible legal issues.Anyone required to display plates should just not think about modding the bike, it is not worth the risk.Although not really a big deal for an experienced rider, the added power and better response can cause a bad judgement.You might have been happy to open her up fully around your favourite hiarpin bend but now it could mean you loose traction even if don't try to break your LAMS approved speed record.Especially when things get a bit slippery and unexpected it can be difficult to prevent the heavy beast from going down.Never underestimate what you can't see and react to in time!Never overestimate your skills or the bikes real capabilities in terms of handling and grip!Once you are fully used to the different response you are fine, until then it is better to play it safe instead of ending up to be very, very sorry....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
ok my dog stepped on a piece of duct tape and it is now adhered to her paw pad as well as her paw hair i have tried to dissolve the adhesive with rubbing alcohol but want to know if anyone has any other ideas you see i cannot just rip it off since that would really hurt her so i really need some advice please help, fidgety2
Topic by fidgety2 | last reply
Could anyone tell me what the red electronic component might be?
Question by nfarrow | last reply
Hi everyone :), I am a fan of Tiny Houses. And I would love to built one customized based on our basic needs and personality. Well it is okay to have a contractor do it, but on the other hand, I want to be hands on to have on. Do you know a site or a vid link that could be helpful. I would super appreciate your take in on this. Thanks!
Topic by GreenTreestr | last reply
I've got the idea in my head what it looks like, & the parts to make it, but I'm having trouble in how to build it. I want this pump switch to have a setting were if I want, the switch be on when the float is down or up.To attach the cable, will a press fit pipe connector work for a air/water tight fit?How do I mount the switch in the pipe? I do have a metal ball weight to activate the switch.Suggestions on pipe size, materials for the switch mount, should I glue everything or have a screw off cap to access the electronics inside for repair?
Question by elkaddalek | last reply
I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
The solenoid's datasheet doesn't mention a required current, but it does specify it uses 16.1 Watts, so at 120V I'm assuming it's ~134mA. irs.govThe only relays I can find for that voltage, have a minimum current rating of 1A. Would I have more luck using a MOSFET / NPN Transistor? Any advice would be helpful fedloan
Topic by MedowsGomes | last reply
Hi guys. I've been prototyping some very basic steampunk mechanisms that I'm preparing an Instructable for, and I'm looking for a bit of advice on how to make the moving joints. The mechanisms are simple, with parts I'm cutting from brass sheet myself. They'll be using joints that I'd like to make reasonably permanent and low profile, yet able to move (elbow joints, for want of a better description). I've not tested it yet, but I've read that putting a piece of paper between the two arms before riveting them (blind/pop rivets) will allow the joint to move once it's fastened together. I was also considering whether it might be advantageous to put a nylon of teflon washer between them before riveting, instead. Any advice on whether this type of moving joint would be any good, if it would last with moderate use, whether it would work at all, and what some possible alternatives might be would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Topic by SpannerSpencer | last reply
I'd prefer not to have it be electrical but I need something that can close around an object manually...For example if I'm on a 2 story deck and something falls off like a can or a bag I can lower down a rope type device with a grabber claw or a scoop or anything else for that matter over the object that has fallen over and essentially squeeze the claw/scoop over the object and safely bring it back up while also securing the payload so it doesn't fall out of the claw.Is this possible? If so, can you please explain how or link me to something where I can do this.If there are no links for this on instructable can someone please provide me links for supplies?Please and thank you in advance.
Question by WhyTrashEarth | last reply
Hey guys. I just stumbled upon this group. Good stuff here. But lately I've been working on an old Schwinn Le Tour I have, and could you some help. I've stripped it down, cleaned it all up, but before I go and put it back together id like to find out a thing or two about converting it to a fixed gear track bike. It's got horizontal drop-outs, and in great condition. I just need some tips on how to do it, and opinions on the pro's and con's of the conversion. Thanks to everyone who can help me out.
Topic by MattyMumbles | last reply
On motor specification it is written 500 watt , 50 hz ac motor , but when i plug it in 12 volt dc battery it runs slowly it can stop it with hand but i hope in higher dc volt it will run enough to use in my electric bicyle. it is philips juicer and mixer and grinder purchased from india
Question by Suraj Basnet | last reply
Hi, I have just bought LG 47GA6400 TV but I damaged LCD screen (CRD31092201) when I was assembling it. I couldn't find low cost LCD to replace and I started wondering how I can reuse any remaining parts of this TV. Actually there are many people like me wondering what to do with dead Smart TV. Few years ago you would receive a standard advice – throw it away. But today Smart TV parts are powerful and with your help might be re-used again... Here is an example: My LG TV has mainboard with dual core CPU, Google TV inside and cool remote controller with QWERTY keyboard and tons of applications.... I wish I could reuse it with other, not so smart LCD TV I have. The only problem, how to connect Smart TV mainboard to a HDMI. It doesn't have HDMI out, it has only input ports and one LCD interface cable.... Is it a crazy idea to convert LCD interface back to HDMI or VGA ? Can you create an instructables to show how to do that ?
Topic by alexgontcharov | last reply
Why Do planets Move ? Which force keep them moving in thier orbits? google says..... because of the gravitational pull of the sun....... but isn't it the force which only keeps the planets in their orbits......... ? is it also the same gravitational pull of the sun which keeps them moving ? if so , then how ?
Question by _Boltz_ | last reply
How many of you Instructatarians play Minecraft?For those of you who don't, Minecraft.net. Its a sandbox game where you can create and destroy blocks to build structures and dig tunnels in either a vast single player world or collaborate in one of many public and private Minecraft servers with players around the world. Kind of like Legos, but as a game. For those of you who do, how many would like a private Instructables server? I've been thinking of setting one up.
Topic by Rotten194 | last reply
I was cleaning in the office I work in and found these two devices on the picture. Now I'm curious what are these for as I couldn't derive the purpose from the looks. One of them has a mono 3.5mm audio jack and two LEDs or similar looking parts - 5mm round transparent things. One side of the enclosure around each "LED" has a sticky tape. If they would be attached to something then the "LED" would face 45 degrees from the surface. The other has a stereo 2.5 mm audio jack and one dark IR-reciver-like thing in a small round enclosure. The enclosure has two small holes on the other side, but I'm not sure if they are important. I tried the one with two "LED"-s in a headphone socket but nothing happened.
Question by Libahunt | last reply
I want to paint on latex clothing both in detail and simple designs. What paints and mediums will work with the thicknesses of latex to stretch with the garment? Prepping the surface with what formula to get the best bond between paint and latex? Will the thickness of the latex matter?
Question by dawnhopper | last reply
Theoretically, could it be possible to mix titanium and steel and get the best of both? Let’s just assume that cost and difficulty are not an issue? Imagine the possible uses for a metal that was non-magnetic, non-conductive, corrosion resistant, and with a great strength to weight ratio, while being as hard as tempered steel. For one thing, it make a fantistic knife. So, the question is; Would it be possible.
Question by black hole | last reply
Ok so here are the details, I want to access sites like youtube, and well just youtube and I tried the https protocol and that didn't work and on top of that there's a bug installed within our computer especially designed to keep us away from changing any of the proxy settings in all of these browsers and I only have these 3 browsers: Firefox, Safari, and Google Chrome. If possible I would prefer Firefox because of the add-ons that I have with it. And i can't modify anything within the advance settings button on the Network/Internet Preference Pane. And as my last resort I ask all of you on how do I bypass this web filter? P.S. I have a mac mountain lion v10.8.4 Tank you very much for your support
Question by SkyRiseElite753 | last reply
From questions I have read and step by step’s I have read a question came to my mind. How powerful of a motor do you need to run an alternator? I checked the Delco Remy alternator series from 10SI in 37 Amps, to the 40SI durable brushless model, in 240, 275, and 300 Amps. All their performance charts show rpm’s at the alternator not the motor. The pulley on the crankshaft is considerably larger than the pulley on the alternator, giving you more rpm’s at the alternator than at the motor. All their performance charts show rpm’s from 1200 to 8000 rpm’s. All their performance charts show at 3000 rpm’s you get 13/16ths of max power. The last 5000 rpm’s only gaining 3/16ths of power. The thing is none of the performance charts say the horsepower to drive the alternator. I decided to approach the problem from a different direction Typical alternator efficiencies are in the 54%-60% range. Brushless alternator efficiencies are in the 60% 70% range. A typical 12v 60 Amp alternator produces 720 watts at 55% efficiency. It needs just 1310 watts to drive it or a little under two horsepower at 1492 watts. This does not account for mechanical efficiency of connecting the alternator to the motor. With this in mind a three horsepower motor should drive a 12v 60 Amp alternator. This is just an educated guess but I would like a horsepower chart. 720 watts would do well at charging a battery bank while you sleep; however I could not run my microwave and charge batteries at the same time.
Question by Josehf Murchison | last reply
I want to add AURDOINO Library tp proteus..I cant find library folder
Question by moh.malik.ahmed | last reply
I have a couple fog machines purchased at Target around Halloween last year. The model has a switch on an extension cord which when pressed triggers the fog machine to produce fog for 5-10 seconds. They work great but I want to use a remotely placed motion sensor, like from a motion sensor flood light to trigger the fog machine when people walk past. I purchased a replacement motion sensor module for a flood light and looked at the wiring of the switch and the fog machine but haven't figured out how to properly wire it. The motion sensor module has a "test" setting which would turn on the light fixture for 5 seconds, I want to use this to trigger the fog periodically as people walk past. Any help would be appreciated. A couple photos to show the pieces are included. If more detailed information about the wiring is needed please let me know.
Question by cbulloch | last reply
Here at Instructables we run a ton of contests! We also get asked a ton of questions about those contests. Below is a list of the contest questions we get asked most frequently and also some questions that we feel could use a little more explaining. (Let’s be honest - reading the official rules is not fun.)Please ask addition questions in this forum topic - I'm sure there are some we have not covered!Important links: List of upcoming contestsContest suggestionsPrize suggestions General Contest Questions How do you choose which contests to run?We do this in a few different ways.Contests are planned based on past contest themes, what’s trending in search, which categories/channels need a little love, new site features or if there’s a certain type of content we want. Contest ideas also come from staff meetings and through the official contest idea forum topic.I have an idea for a contest! How do I tell you guys?Please post here and let us know! We can’t run all of them, but we love seeing the ideas you guys come up with. How do I win a contest?Post something awesome! Check out this collection of tutorials that will tell you how to write a great instructable. Why do Instructables employees enter the contests?We enter contests to set the bar and give an example of the type of entries we want in the contests. We're not able to win them, though!It's important to note that several employees were authors on the site before they worked here, though, so you might see some wins in our achievements! :) Entering Contests Can I enter if my country is not listed in the official rules?Yes! You can definitely enter.However, you must have a mailing address in an eligible country to win. If you have a friend in the US or another eligible country that can receive your prize, go ahead and enter!You can read more about our progress to add more countries to the eligible shipping locations here. I live in -----, why can't I enter?!Chances are your country has incredibly strict laws regarding gambling, sweepstakes and contests. We try our best to play by the rules, and if we can't meet the minimum requirements to run a contest in your country, we don't run them there!That's the easy answer. The hard answer is that it's very complicated and involves lots of risk and scary legal language. Why isn't my entry showing up in the contest? I entered three minutes ago!Real humans look at each entry! This means it take take a while sometimes. We work standard office hours, 9-5ish PST. We tend to moderate first thing in the morning, Monday-Friday.If you enter at the end of the work day or over the weekend, you may have to wait until the next business day to be accepted. Why can I only enter one contest with one Instructable?It’s all the spirit of fairness. In the past, we've had popular instructables sweep multiple contests with huge wins. This new rule will allow more authors to win! Why was I rejected from the contest?The number one reason for this is not fitting the contest theme - we try our best to explain the sorts of entries we’re looking for on the main page of each contest, so double check your eligibility there.We also sometimes make mistakes or encounter bugs during the approval/denial process. (Checking the wrong box, clicking the wrong button, breaking the back end of the site) It’s rare, but it happens! We’re human and can’t help it, but we do our best to right those mistakes as soon as we know they happened! Why can’t I enter an instructable I published before the start date into the contest?We want to see NEW and exciting content built just for the contest. If we allowed old instructables in, we’d just see the same things over and over again. Plus, the number entries in the contests would make it very hard to choose finalists and winners.Keep in mind that simply republishing an old project will not make it eligible - we check for that. ;) Can I edit my Instructable after it's entered in a contest?Short answer: YES!Long answer: You can make any modifications you want to an Instructable that's already entered! We get so many entries that there's absolutely no way we'd be able to police it even if we wanted to - but it's never something we want to discourage.Improvement is always a good thing as far as I'm concerned. :)However, we must caution you: it's best to get those changes done before voting closes. The voting period matters the most because that's the time that we start looking into picking finalists.Another slightly related caveat: don't publish a mostly empty instructable and try to fill it after the contest ends. We're starting to see this happen more often, always with a promise that updates are coming. You can never tell when we'll be reviewing it as a possible finalist, so chances are you'll get overlooked going about it that way. We are currently looking at 50-300 entries per contest, so anything incomplete doesn't stand a chance these days! Finalist & Winner Selection When are the finalists selected?Finalists are selected starting the Tuesday after the contest closes. The finalist selection process normally ends Thursday of the same week, depending on how tricky the contest is and how many people give input. How are finalists selected?Finalists are selected by site staff based on the following criteria: clarity, ingenuity, creativity, quality of presentation, and execution of the Instructable (as noted in each contests' official rules section). You can make your instructable stand out further by including the following: Good photos! Pretty photos put you five steps ahead of all the other entries already, honestly. We're going to want to click through and look at it as soon as we see it if it's pretty! Good explanation of both WHAT the project is and HOW you made it. Sometimes it can be really hard to figure out what we're looking at. (Personally, if I have to spend several minutes staring at photos and reading to understand it, I'm not very excited about it anymore.) Try to convey the project through both photos and video if it's needed. For example - if it's a rocket, upload a video of it in action! A good story! I read more projects than you could ever imagine every month. I love it when an author takes time to explain why they made the project, or documents the errors they made along the way. That makes an instructable so much more enjoyable to read. :) Citing your sources/inspirations - look, we realize there's hardly an original idea on the internets anymore, so we can't fault you for that. But it's only fair to give credit where credit is due. We like that. Plus, it sometimes makes for an awesome story. Creativity! Look, I cannot even begin to tell you how many paracord bracelets, Altoid tin survival kits and Iron Man arc reactors I have looked at. My eyes glaze at the thought. Don't just go for the common and easy, take that project and put a new spin on it!!Relation to prize. In some contests, we offer a Judges Prize. Entries that qualify for this prize are also taken into consideration. We always suggest authors read their own work with an objective eye. Does it make sense if you aren’t familiar with the subject already? Did you provide enough description? Are the photos understandable? How many finalists are there?To find this out easily, go to the contest page and look at the total number of prizes to be awarded. The number of finalists for a given contest will match the number of total prizes. Why wasn't my project chosen as a winner/finalist?This can happen for all kinds of reasons, honestly. See the "How are finalists selected?" question above for a more in depth explanation of what we're looking for.The most important thing to stress is that we are going through TONS of entries for every contest, so it's important to set yourself apart. Choose a clear and concise title, tell us a story, share great photos, explain the project well. If there are projects similar to yours in the contest already, make sure your project exceeds theirs in awesomeness. Also remember that competition is fierce in the contests - there are always a LOT of amazing entries. When it comes down to selecting winners sometimes it's the little things because when you're comparing awesome to awesome the little things are all you can look at. So be detailed orientated when writing your instructable. Judging Who judges the contests?This is typically a mix of Instructables staff and authors on the site (your peers!). Each contest is normally assigned 10-50 judges.Lately we’ve had an average of 15-20 judges complete the process. I always try to add as many judges as possible, because more judges means the judging is more fair and helps to reduce bias. How can I help judge a contest?If you’re interested in helping us judge, check out this forum topic! To judge, you must have published at least one Instructable.We send out PMs to judges on the Friday after a contest closes. How do I judge a contest/access the judging ballot?We’ve written up an Instructable over it! You can find it here: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Judge-a-C...Once you're added to the list of judges, you’ll be able to access the ballot. Prizes How do you pick prizes? Can I suggest prizes?We've got a pretty small budget prize here, so it's a mix of trying to be frugal but still give you guys something fancy. We try to order most of our prizes from Amazon.com because they have reliable shipping and tons of options.If you'd like to suggest an awesome prize, do it here! I don't like these prizes, can I trade?Short answer: nope!Long answer: we choose prizes well ahead of time and order prizes at the start of the contest (for 95% of what we run) and we don’t make substitutions. We typically have anywhere from 100-250 winners a month (and increasing all the time!), so it’s not feasible to give choices and sub things out. Only three of us on staff work with ordering the prizes and shipping them out, so that would be lots of work!However, we have allowed winners to switch prizes with another winner on occasion (both parties must agree and let us know before we ship them!) and we’re fine with you selling your prize somewhere else. How do I get my prize if I win?When contest winners are announced, we’ll send you a message with a form to fill out. Make sure to fill this out completely and remember that we require a phone number and that we can’t ship to P.O. boxes.Winners are responsible for any trade tax or tariffs incurred for shipping to your location. We cannot reduce the value of the prize so you pay less tax (nice try, though, you sneaky hobbit!!). When will my prize ship?We try to ship prizes as soon as possible! 75% of our contests have prizes that are easily shipped right away and you should receive notification of shipment within a week or so.Sometimes we do have to order items AFTER the contest ends or wait for a sponsor to ship the items. If we think there will be a delay, we’ll let the winners know. We’ve been trying very hard to make sure we’re reaching out and updating winners about prize statuses.Also: VERY IMPORTANT - the sooner all winners give us their contact info, the sooner we can make big orders of custom sizes. Sometimes there’s a huge delay just because we’ve got one straggler. Be a good winner and let us give you prizes, dangit!!
Topic by jessyratfink | last reply
Hi everyone! We need to update our judge list with some new names!To be eligible to judge, you must have posted at least ONE instructable. Let us know which contest categories you're interested to judge in the comments below: CookingWorkshopCircuitsCraftLivingOutsideTeachersThe judging process is fairly simple and involves looking at contest finalists and rating them on a scale from 0-9. Judging is open Friday afternoon through Monday night. Time spent judging is around 30 minutes to two hours - it all depends on how thorough you are!If it’s not a good time for you to judge when we contact you, no worries. We always try to assign more judges than we need in case something comes up.You can find out more about the judging process here.Don't worry! Judges are selected after finalists are selected, so volunteering to judge will not affect your chances of being a finalist in any contest you enter.Thanks for helping us keep the site awesome!
Topic by jessyratfink | last reply
I have a Lasko fan handle the needs to be repaired. Any good Ideas would be good for me to take new steps in the right direction. They dont sell the handle any more and nothing close to it that I could modify it to work. I am good with power tools but lack ideas on how to make a wooden handle. The Knobs have to go through it to make it work. see the picture. Just gluing it wont work the fan weighs 7 lbs. Would be nice to find someone with a 3D printer Might work.
Topic by Buzzmenow | last reply
I have about 6 old phones, all with cameras - so not that old. They are not used because not reliable, or unknown reasons. I keep them around because I want to do something with them. Can I access the cameras, with some kinda of usb adaptor + some drivers? Maybe make webcams out of them?4 of the phones are razors btw.Thanks - really looking forward to your replies.
Question by blakeredfield | last reply
Here is an example : one prong of a electrical plug is plugged into an outlet in an apartment, while the other prong is plugged into an different apartment's outlet , in doing so, would there be any significant reading off both apartment's power bill/meter?
Question by zeuszaku | last reply
Shoemaking is such a wide category it should be its own category, rather than in the fashion sections. There's so many things you can do in the world of shoes (decorating, painting, designing, finding the best way to make soles, making your own shoes from scratch). Shoes = good. Make shoes their own category, please!
Topic by Fable Luna Grace | last reply
Im just curious to know if there is a wrong way to connect a resistor to something. Im not sure if there is a wrong way to do it, i just want to make sure.
Question by ramroids55 | last reply
Question | last reply
I have an allergy to nickel. It causes severe blisters so I must avoid it at all costs. Unfortunately, nickel is present in soil and water at varying levels and is absorbed by all plant based foods. There is some literature out there that lists which foods are worse, but are vague at best, and simply avoiding all plant based foods is not a realistic option. I would like to know if there is a way to test soil and water for nickel and determine how much is present? Or is there a way to test plant based foods for the nickel levels they have absorbed? I have researched this extensively and can only find information about getting tested for metals within the body. Confirming this would not change my dilemma. I have to work diligently at avoiding any further exposure to nickel as I understand there is no way of removing this metal once it is ingested. I have seen many specialists and their help is not only expensive, but limited (due to a lack of research in this area). Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. If anyone needs reference material regarding nickel in soil, water and plant based food should Read This from Ohio State University.
Question by canucksgirl | last reply
Hey again, those of you in the internet world. I am a maker in high school, and have been wondering how makers can make money. I have repeatedly been asked if someone could buy something off me (usually an ipod charger/etc), but I somehow feel that I am cheating them or ripping them off (if I tell them a price high enough to make a profit). Let me say now, I am not huge on actually talking to people :) so making a deal to sell something or actively seeking out people to make deals with is hard. I guess thats the price to pay for being antisocial :D One kid I know, and it makes me so mad because he is really good at it, managed to basically sell laser pointers to 50% of the kids at school for a 100% profit on each one..... Another problem I have run into is that of rights- for example if I take a design off of online, or generally instructables, and then make it and sell it, I feel as if I took some money away from the person who posted that idea. So anyone have any tips for a kid in high school trying to make some $$ on the side? I could make a business of of fixing ipod screens but I tried once and ended up having to buy a whole new ipod for a kid because I accidentally clipped a cable whole disassembling.
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
So, I have a half formed idea to turn a forge into a welding device, by somehow 'extruding' or directing a flame from the fire, maybe through a tube, to a point, to heat the metal to be welded. Using a water hose analogy, it's like creating a high pressure water hose from a tank or reservoir...or something. Please don't say things like 'just buy a welder"... etc. I'm looking at doing something unique (maybe) and off-grid, that doesn't involve electricity or batteries or propane gas...etc., just pure flame, and available natural resources like air, belows, oxygen...etc. Any thoughts how this might work?
Topic by isaacacheampong | last reply