CAN ANYONE HELP ME ABOUT HOW TO PUT A VOLTAGE/CHARGE INDICATOR on flash/High Voltage capacitors using LEDs - Thank You.....!!!!!!!
Topic by KITKAT69 | last reply
Hello, I am currently building a large set of speakers, and have just discovered the annoying "frequency dividers". Is there any good guide on how to make one at home, as everything that is sold online is too expensive for me. As a 13-year-old, earning $20.00 can be tough. (Don't say I'm lazy, I'm not. I literally get $20 every $%@!# time I complete a hard piano piece. So far, I haven't completed one "hard piece". It's... been... 4 MONTHS!)
Question by Cheesey125 | last reply
I have spent the last 3 days looking for my n64 av cable and cannot find it. I was wondering if I could make one custom so I dont have to buy one.
Question by littlepetry | last reply
Recently I salvaged a 23" touchscreen display from a faulty Lenovo ThinkCentre M90z AIO PC. The PC has a faulty mainboard, but the touchscreen display is in perfect working order. I'm trying to use the touchscreen display for another purpose, but I am having trouble identifying the touch module and its pin-outs. For your information, the display is a Samsung LTM230HT03 The touch module is made by HannStar, it has the following markings on the back of the board: HannStar J MV-4 94V-0 1 01 4 DATQ2TH34C0 REV:C TQ2M10400D1M 3FTQ2CB00W0 1.1.1207.2 On the front of the board is a PXI chip with the following markings: PAP7030GM -B U946QF2C As well as a smaller chip, which is marked as a MX-70G I've attached photos of both sides of the module as well as the label on the Samsung display. There are 4 connectors on the module, CON1 connects to the mainboard, CON2 and CON3 connects to the display, CON4 was not in use. CON1 has the following wire colours in order from pin 1 to 5: Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Black. I will greatly appreciate any help or suggestions that anyone can give.
Question by ThirdEarthDesign | last reply
Little under two years ago my we moved into a house that had alot of remodel going on prior to us aquiring ownership. I know and have cleaned behind air registers,ugh. I wonder if dust particles are still floating around? I do change furnace filter every 60-90 days. Need to know if have to get more agressive. I am looking for a interior dust detector and not sure which one to try here on Instructables, any sugestions ?
Question by Mack_937 | last reply
I just jailbroke my first gen I touch and now all I get is the apple logo and nothing else. If I plug it in, the itunes sees the itouch but it says that I need to use the unlock code that I put in. The problem is, it does not give me that screen anymore...just the dam apple.
Question | last reply
Hello guys, Im a rc plane pilot having 15 years of experience. I have made a video on how to choose rc plane for beginners. As some people find problems in choosing which tyoe if plane to choose. Either go to delta wings or acrobatic one or fighter aircrafts (warbirds) or high winger one.so i provided detail video on how to choose rc plane for beginners. Also some websites provide rc aircraft but they cost too much excluding the shipping charges so i decided to share some knowledge on this topic and i also provide extreme built quality rc aircraft within Indian region. So if you are planning to buy a aircraft then do watch my video and if you are an indian then contact me purchasing in low cost .I provide plane in $20 which cost almost $30-40 on flite test and some other platforms like horizon hobby. I provide rc jets, acrobatic aircrafts like edge 540, warbirds like mustang, spitfire, p-40 warhawk and other high winger aircraft built like cessena, storch, scout, explorer, piper cub.if you like my video then please subscribe me for more detail videos on RC hobby and im working on some new builds also as i will upload them soon on my youtube channel and their plans will be free for all.
Topic by VinayakJaid
Several years ago the company behind the original ARA-2000 antenna, Dressler Hochfrequenztechnik, closed.The ARA series of antennas, like many other products by this company never got a patent, instead it was trusted that no one would bother to replicate it.A bit like the Swiss Army knife, many tried to copy it, none really managed to match the original quality.There is quite a bit of hacking still going on for this antenna, most projects though seem to be abandoned at the time of writing this.I am currently trying to figure out how to create an entire clone that everyone who knows how to properly use a soldering iron can build.There is a lot to consider here...The active element is of quite unusual shape and needs to be wound around a cylinder of a pretty accurate diameter.My initial tests showed that for example aluminium foil with some unavoidable wrinkles already has a negative effect.And a change in diameter of just 2mm means the entire antenna only performs badly for the entire band.This part is thankfully already solved to my satisfaction using thin copper sheets and some stiff plastic sheet.Quite a pain though is the MMIC part - the amplifier that makes the antenna active.There is a ton of MMIC blobs available, either solo or as a ready to go amplifier.Downside is that without really knowing any characteristics of the original is comes down to guesswork.And as most of the cheap SDR dongles won't provide a BIAS TEE I will opt for an external power supply for the amp.I might provide the option for a inline use a bit later though.Why clone the ARA-2000 antenna?For starters you need to forget the mythical stories you might have heard about this antenna."Picks up even the weakest signals!", "Totally linear over the entire bandwidth" and so on...Without the amplifier the antenna is actually not even average in therms of reception performance.My initial tests with a network analyser showed that the anteanna actually is behaving really weird (without the amp!).Although this first bit needs further testing, it seems that most, if not all of the work in the 1.5-2GHz range is done by just the straight connecting strup going from the amp, or in my test case the coax, to the wrapped antenna part.For anything in the more interesting frequency bands it seems that the antenna is not using anything like a discone, whip or ground plane antenna.Instead the 3rd harmonics of a given frequency provide the max power output from the antenna but it arrives at the cable at the right frequency.Especially in the lower frequencies, below 200MHz there is also quite some phase shifting happening.As a passive antenna it seems to be almost impossible to find a frequency to transmit on without using some matching trickery first.But when it comes to size or looks, the ARA outperforms everything you can think of unless you want to constantly adjust the length of your whip antenna.And if you check what is available in real (user) data in terms of noise and signal quality than most other antenna types are far worse.The design provides a wide frequency range with very little noise, almost like a build in filter.Considering that mostly harmonic frequencies are used not that surprising.Getting hooked on SDR means you start little and then you want more and more.Unless you really need the low frequency HAM bands below 50MHz the ARA is a good choice that just makes sense.What is quite surprising in the original is the total lack of protection for strong signals.Sure, we might never need a lightning arrestor because all is enclosed in plastic and has little attraction lightning, but someone hittiing the transmit button close by....I will have to do some more checks to determine whether or not more protection is required.What is the problem with amplifier?For starters, no one really knows what was used in the original - they all just guess based on how well the real design matches some datasheet.Means whatever was used might as well be a custom made solution.I checked a few datasheets for MMIC amps but could not find any useful reference to the handling of things like negative gain, phase shift or a constantly changing impedance.Some however state that a 50 or 75Ohm signal is provided at the output.If I interpret that correctly than those MMIC's not only amplify but also do some matching.In most cases you won't need an amp that works outside what the antenna can provide.Problem is that I don't like regretting things later on ;)So IMHO it would be best to use a wideband MMIC covering all from about 1MHz to a few GHz.Additional filters can then cut off what is not required or where the antenna starts to fail.What is clear by the original design is that the cable shield acts as a ground and most likely also has a balancing function.It would make sense to add a ferrite trap close the the receiver to filter out what the cable might otherwise mess up.Can the frequency range be lowered to get even the low HAM bands?The answer is YES and NO.It is not a big problem to extend the cone shape and then hope to come much lower.Issue with this is the helical, long periodic design.As basically only the 3rd harmonics are used for all interesting frequencies any ARA type antenna going much lower would end to be really long.You can't just make it longer!One thing is to have a full and even number of turns.The original only had two, three turns is bad, four means the entire antenna is slightly longer than your average downpipe for your roof gutters....Other, seemingly logical alternative would be to stick to two turns and to increase the diameter.Apart from the size problem here we would also change the shape of the foil quite a bit and I have not done enough tests with that to provide a conclusion.Are there alternative design options?As it turns out copper pipe is available in 80mm diameters for the use in chimneys as well as downpipes.With a proper machine it would be pretty straight forward to remove what is not used as the active element.Milling a pipe or rod is these days a common thing in many good workshops.But on a hobby level and low budget....One of the best options for cheap test antennas of this design is to use tinting foil - the cheapest you can find ;)Just read the lable and make sure it does not use a metalised film.If it has no UV protection and no tinit at all it is best but hard to find.A little less stiff is the stuff to cover school books or cupboards.Vinyl is bad though!If you look for copper foil in the cheap online places you mostly find the suff used for shielding in rolls of 200x1000mm.Unless you have a really sharp knife or really suitable sissors this stuff is a pain to cut as the glue tends to stick very good to whatever you use to cut through.Don't ever try one of these blade type cutters for paper and pictures unless you put a slight oil film on all cutting surfaces first....In some hobby shops you can get copper foil without any glue in different thicknesses - this stuff is the prefered option.Not only cheaper than the China rolls with glue but you invest a bit more and get a thickness that does not wrinkle right away when working with it ;)Cheap, steel downpipe and cutters or nibblers?I though about and I tried - and I failed LOLUnless you use a pin type nibbler and custom made rig the result is quite bad - at least mine was.What works though is to use thin aluminium sheets, cut them and then bend them around a suitable template.But I ran out of old laminated sings to salvage and the duble sided ones I have left are too much work.What comes next?Well, I have a few rolls of copper sheets coming next month, the cheap glue covered type.This time however I will leave the plastic cover on and use tape to secure the foil to the pipe.A two-stage amp with external power supply is coming too so I can do some more tests in this area.For the time being I will opt for some 3D printed end caps but with a bit of luck can find something easier next time I have time to waste in the hardware store.Excluding cable and a cheap USB or 12V power supply, the current costs of building the anteanna are around $40US.About half of that if you don't cennectors and attach the coax directly.Another experiement I am working on is to use copper tape, 12mm wide, to create the antenna in a semi-fractal style.I am hoping this will provide a high enough gain so the antenna is usable without an amplifier.Right now the biggest issue is to find a really SDR suitable way to deal with strong signal close by.I will keep you update here when I start with the new antenna and upload some pics along the was of building it.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
What I'm trying to do is light a 50' long breeze way regardless of which end you enter. As it is now It only lights from 1 end. I'd think if you wire 2 motion detectors in parallel (Black-black, red-red, and white-white) then used the switched output (red) and neutral (white) to power the light it would work as I described.
Question by AudieW | last reply
Anyone who posts a new "I Made It!" between today (March 13, 2018), and April 15, 2018 will be eligible to receive a new Instructables notebook and carpenter pencil. For those new to the site, an "I Made It" is a special type of comment that you can post on an instructable to show that you followed the directions and made it yourself. You can find the big orange "I Made It!" link at the end of any instructable. Post a picture of your brand new "I made it" in the comments below and also a link to the project where you have shared it. On April 16 we will be selecting 20 people at random who shared their "I Made It!" below to receive these gifts.
Topic by randofo | last reply
I got this problem when I want to print stacked slices. What Do yI do? I CANT CLICK IN SETTINGS "GEAR" BUTTON!
Topic by DIAGONALLIS | last reply
I'm one of those people that are always hot and I always have an air purifier running in my room. I've seen different instructables about making home made air conditioning units using fans and such and I would like to know if it would be possible and if so, how effective to modify my air purifier to also serve as an AC unit. It is a round honeywell air purifier, see picture.
Question by Shadow13! | last reply
Can you please help me if you can. I have this code for my Arduino that measures the distance of your hand using an ultrasonic sensor (HC-SR04 and then and displays the distance with a 7 segment display. but I am trying to change it so instead detect when a ball has gone through the hoop and starts at 0 and counts up on a 7 segment display every time the ultrasonic sensor it detects something we (me and my dad ) have tried doing this for weeks but both being a beginner at Arduino we don't know what to do. are original code and project came from: https://www.instructables.com/id/Distance-Sensors-...
Question by chantelmillersong | last reply
Hi, I own the Freenove UNO (identical to the Arduino UNO) and it has been working fine with my laptop (Win10 and using the Arduino IDE program) but recently it stopped communicating with the laptop. I have reinstalled the Arduino IDE program (tried uninstalling and reinstalling a few times, including installing an older version of the IDE) and have tried it on 3 different computers (2 running Windows 10 and one on Win7) with 2 different USB A-Bvcables, but still, when you plug it into a computer the on and L lights turn on so it is receiving power but code won't upload and it doesn't communicate the device I am not sure what to do. In the past, I successfully uploaded sketches to the UNO and they worked as expected, so I'm not sure why the UNO would suddenly stop communicating with the computer unless it is fried which would make sense because a week before this I was trying to control my WS2812B LEDs with the UNO but the LEDs need 12 volts so I powered both my LEDs and my UNO with a 12-volt wall adapter I had a 220 resistor but I don’t think it worked because after it smelled funny In the case, it is fried, I am not sure what to do is there a way to fix a fried Arduino UNO also why would the on led be light up if the Arduino UNO if it fried
Question by chantelmillersong | last reply
So, I have an ideapad 700 laptop and was working fine. Recently, there is weird intermittent noise coming from it. I found out out that it's from on of the fans (the smaller one)... It spins with high speed making noise like wind or as if inhaling air then, a buzzing sound as it slows down. Then stops spinning then repeats that over and over. The other fan works just fine quietly I tried cleaning it from the the dust...noise still occurs It started to do that all of a sudden. I didn't install anything new or change any setting NB. It's not related to heat, the noise starts the moment I Turn on the laptop Any idea what to do ?
Question by John2013222 | last reply
I know most hard drive platters have a thin sheet of platnum . how do you seperate the platnum from the non precious metal?
Question by mrdmburns | last reply
HI, I need to make 4-12 foot columns and 4-3 foot columns to resemble ancient Thesolaniki (Greece) for the stage. I need to be able to break them down for transportation and storage into 8 foot lengths if possible. I was thinking of using concrete forms from the building supply section of our home improvement store, but perhaps you have another idea that is Light and inexpensive. I will be able to use the batton in the flyloft to attach a guide wire, so they won't topple. Thank you.
Question by Tabithadees | last reply
Hey Guys!My Chat Noir cosplay is a full body suit, meaning the gloves aren't sepreate. It gets really hard to eat and use my phone during cons because I don't have my hands and I also use the body suit as my black widow cosplay so I ended up cutting them off. Any suggestions on how I could make it so that the gloves are detachable?Thanks for the help!
Question by lemonjuiceart42
I really don't know how people who does screen printing transfer their designed onto that transparent paper already, its like every tutorial I watch is they skip this step:[ and i'm new in this kind of hobby.
Question by nhicebby | last reply
Hi! I am trying to find a good h-bridge for a 3 volt stepper motor. Basically my plan is to build a stepper motor controller with an arduino for controlling various functions in a model kit. I have the arduino-kit and the motors. But I need a good reference for a h-bridge, but all i can find are chips rated for much larger drive currents. Also exactly how hot does a hbridge get when under load? I would like to integrate the bridges into the kit, but since it is plastic, I would like to know in advance how hot it gets, and if it gets too hot I'll have to look at another solution.Any help appreciated! PS. If you can please put the hbridge part ID in your answer for easy reference. DS.
Question by feldreich | last reply
First of all, I want to thank to the staff member who featured my ible. I have couple of questions. Can my ible become "Homepage featured"? Is there any chance for published ible like mine to be reconsidered as Homepage featured? If so, what should I need to do on my ible? And also I would really appreciate your comments and judgements for my ible.Here is the link: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-PUZZLE...
Question by ToshikunMaker | last reply
Besides the price (over $8K, plus overseas shipping) it seems to take up an awful lot of space, and has some features like the uncomfortable looking chairs I wouldn't use. But the idea of something that coud fit in a trunk of a car or the back of a minivan that could be used for camping is really intriguing! Alas, I don't have the engineering skills to design what I'm imagining, but I have to believe there's someone who could use good ol' Yankee ingenuity and probably improve on the Swiss design. If you Google it, there's a video that shows how theirs works. Thanks for reading my question. Suzanne
Question by suzanne97205 | last reply
Hello everyone, With the social distancing going on right now, I wanted to take a crack at a project that has been rolling around in my head for a while. Short story is I would like to build a solar charged, battery operated, power supply to run a color changing Wi-Fi light bulb in a lantern housing that would then hang outside on a lamp post. I will freely admit I have pretty much no idea what I am doing. I know I need to make sure that the Amp-hour are at least 50% more than what I need. I know there could be a way to use an inverter to get the voltage from DC from the batteries to AC for the light bulb base. And I know there are a lot of numbers and equations that I am unsure of how to use. And yes, I am aware that there are many different kinds of solar powered garden lamps out there. But none of them are as powerful, nor have the color options, I am interested in . So here is my idea. 1 - 7-10 watt WiFi color light bulb that screws into a standard E26 socket and runs at 110 volts. So far I think I have figured out that this bulb would run at 0.0909 amps, or 100 mA. If I did the math right, that brings me to needing a 6 Ah battery to run it for 24 hour. My stumbling block is I do not know how to size an inverter to correctly go from the DC of a battery to the AC needed by the bulb. Nor what size of battery I would need to run a 7-10 watt bulb at 110 volts for 24 hours including the additional energy to compensate for the inverter. I cannot imagine I would need a battery as large as a car battery, but I also have no idea. Any assistance you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Question by Uskardx42 | last reply
I have a 5 inch touch screen for my Raspberry Pi, and I want to set it up. It's a resistant touch screen communicating through the GPIO pins. Here's the screen itself. I think that all I need to do is do something in the terminal to install it... I have the driver files. Here's the link for the driver files. Please help.
Topic by nancyjohns | last reply
You know those caps they had back in the 20s and 30s, the ones where the top would kinda hang out over the bill, kinda like the one in the pic, but not exactly. Well, does anybody know how to make one? If you can make one, then please post an I'ble, 'cause I've been needing one for a while and can't find any. By the way, the one on the right is sideways, incase of any confusion. I was kicked off of Yahoo! Answers today. I never realized how much of a slave I was to them. You Instructables people are smarter. I am leaving Yahoo! I have switched over to my Gmail account, and I'm happy. I've asked about this cap on Yahoo, and never got an answer. But you guys/gals are smarter and craftier, and I can actually go a good while on here without calling someone an idiot, unlike Yahoo. Well, have fun crocheting, knitting or sewing a cap from the long ago(if you'd like to).
Topic by extremegtafan | last reply
Will the Ramset propellant damage the gun? or does it depend on the power level of the Ramset?
Question by DelaneyD2 | last reply
I have two Acer 24" LCD monitors for my laptop, one at home and one at the office. The office monitor sometimes shows a dark 'shadow' effect to the right of both text and graphics. The home monitor is fine so it can't be the computer. Any ideas as to what's causing it, and whether it can be fixed?
Question by Prfesser | last reply
So my question is, is there a fairly efficient way to sand something without using sandpaper? I am doing a project for haiti, and i just realized a breakdown in a system. Sandpaper would add a huge cost to anything. Right to what it is used for: I was wondering, if anyone have any simple ideas on how to sand soda cans after cutting them into sheets? Solutions i can think of in context with whats available in Haiti is may be rubbing the sheets against concrete or even in a sand box? I am just thinking, back in the old days, before sand paper, how did people do it? any ideas would be really appreciated!
Question by bennelli | last reply
Hey, Its been a while since I played this game but I hope one of you will be able to find it. From what I remember, its was an old, flash based game, online, centered around drag racing. You could race in different events against different cars, and if I remember correctly you could also bet in it (no real money involved). Is was an early form of 3D, and not 8 bit (so not streetrod, but along the same lines). I remember being able to upgrade the car, and peing pinkslipped multiple times. I think the name started with a B. If someone knew what this is it would be awesome, been looking for it for around 3 years..
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I have had these 3, 12V dimmer transformer film/photography "Dedolights" since I worked at the BBC (UK) many years ago working on filming projects and they have been constant and loyal friends.The transformers have packed up now but the lamp housing and optics remains as solid as ever. My aim is to attempt to DIY convert the light sources to LED and a colour temperature of approx 6000K, so I can mix them with my other daylight lighting. If you look at the pictures in the attached pdf file you will see this is no easy task !So ideally I am looking for a high output LED bulb to replace the halogens as a straight swop or, as is more likely, change the fitting altogether to get a high power 12V light source. Help and suggestions would be most welcome. I am attaching a pdf file to give more info and picturesThanks in advance
Topic by Pixcels | last reply
HiI should be grateful if I could get some advice on how to control 18 different items of the same 6V carbon brushed DC motor simultaneously (this one from Pololu: https://www.pololu.com/product/3070 ).The special problem is this high number of motors that have to be controlled simultaneously.To have the job done b a lower amount of (stronger) motors is unfortunately not possible due to dimensional restrictions. The motors all need to get the same command at the same time. The commands should include forward, backward, stop, and idle speed.One preferrable option would be to use an arduino nano.Does anybody have some advice? I should be very grateful.Joel
Question by Cole A | last reply
The variable speed fan control on my Thermador HT48HQS hood vent does not work and the replacement switch is no longer available. I'm looking for some help in making a new switch. The Thermador VTR1000Q motor is mounted on the roof and controlled at the hood with a variable speed control knob. The motor is rated at 115V 60Mz 7.8 Amps. Photos of the switch assembly are attached. From what I understand, the speed control knob is a potentiometer that regulates the speed by proving a range of amps from 2.5 to 8? If I could make a variable speed control that would be great. But I'd be more than happy to have create an on/off toggle switch or a toggle for low on/off high. Can anyone help me?
Topic by Cjmacyogiboo | last reply
I work for a charity with Aboriginal Australians in the remote outback of Australia, a place called Arnhem land, it is worth a google. People need washing machines, they buy them, they break , even with warranty cover, they can not be fixed as no service men will come here to service them, we are too remote. Houses here have about 20 people living in them, there is no work here and people live on small government payments which are not enough to cover daily expenses. Due to the difficulty in accquiring and maintaining a working washing machine, health issues such as Crusted Scabies have taken hold here, and cause much suffering. We can't erradicate the disease here without getting working washing machines. We need a solution, an easy to use, easy to fix washing machine. No electronics. Cold water only is fine. Possibly even hand operated, or wind operated (or other) I found one which is a plastic tub which turns with a handle and stands on two feet. However the construction too flimsy, the tub not big enough for a bed sheet, it was green though. Didn't use electric power. Anyone have any ideas? Know any other sites I could post on to get ideas? Thanks : )
Topic by lisafromnz | last reply
I think I saw somewhere you can post 3 but I cont find that now so how many can you post?
Question by zoerainbows | last reply
No one in my family thought to keep the manufacturers number nor the instructions we've had it for 3 years and its never been serviced if i can save money and do it myself id love it if you know how to please leave a comment
Question by DarienS4 | last reply