Topics



Need help with a project

Hi, I am making a project with arduino that has to run two nema 17 stepper motors that will turn separate pinion gears for a rack and pinion and a single servo to move and arm up and down. I want to be able to control everything with a wired control pad. If anyone knows an instructable that would help with this could you let me know please. I have not had any luck finding anything. Thank you.

Topic by tensecondsdown    |  last reply


Help! I need someone who can help me with `Desktop CT and 3D Scanner With Arduino`

Hi, I need help from someone who could build one of the `Desktop CT and 3D Scanner With Arduino`I have some of the parts from a commercial model is there anyone out there clever enough and interested?Thank you

Question by jewellerjon    |  last reply


Hydraulic drive for trike.? Answered

I am in the (long term) process of rebuilding my tricycle recumbent bike (a tadpole configuration). At present it has the usual long chain driving the rear wheel. I would like to do away with the long chain for several reasons and am toying with the idea of using a hydraulic drive. Cylinders at front and rear with the front driven by my feet and the rear driving a standard pedal set with the normal short chain/gear set - in face the rear frame of a standard bike with the hydraulics rams in place of my legs.. I can't find anywhere that this has been done and this worries me as generally what can be done is done. In metal weight would be a problem but I hope to be able to machine the rams in plastic tubing giving me a light energy transfer from front to back. Hopefully it will be electric assist as well but that is another matter. Any comments would be welcome before I commit to building it so I can see why this is such a bad idea.

Question by rickharris    |  last reply


Belt feed

Does anyone have some kide of blueprint on how to make a belt feed MP. I have seen the examples of ones on howstuffworks.com but that isn't helping me much right now. I'm not really sure how I can belt feed it through. I am working with a P.A. Luty's 9mm. Can some one help me on this. If you have been able to make a belt feed system can you show me yours in photos. I think that would also be a great instructable too. I'm not to sure how to make a belt for 9mm rounds either. Instead of sticking with his design on the magazine I think it would be great to have a belt feed system on this weapon.

Topic by 6Rea6per6    |  last reply


How can i get a 12v motor to automatically reverse polarity or direction by a adjustable timer ???

I have a machine that i built for hunting that swims  duckdecoys back an forth that mimics a live group of ducks and would like to control it by an adjustable timer to automatically reverse the direction of the motor  instead of having to hit a switch back an forth.Heres what i need exactly a timer that is adjustable by a knob that will switch direction of motor after a certain time an adjustable speed control by knob for the motor to speed up an slow down the motor an a on/off switch to turn the system on an off if someone could help me with a parts list and a schematic of how it all goes im shure i can figure it out

Question by frankswamper    |  last reply


Power banks and solar cells -could be great Instructable for you to make!

I was lucky to score a nice and real 8000mAh power pack with a solar cell from my local discounter.Realising the solar cell is more a gimmick than of real use I started to wonder....We all love our mobile devices and really hate that they need to be constantly charged up again.On long outdoor trips people used to carry a lot of gear and vital supplies.In todays times it almost seems that solar and battery power start to replace food and water.No trip is complete without pics, selfies and videos, some even take a drone with them.So: are there ways to increase your luggage weight by thinking smarter?Modern technology has come a long way and moves faster ever year.Solar cells are no exception here.Be it foldable setups or now even roll ups of flexible cell systems, you have the total freedom of coice.But then again: You are going on a week long camping trip in the middle of nowhere...Going on foot or using a bike means you need to keep the extras down or hire someone to carry them.Here are some of my yet to be finnished ideas:As long as you don't use them commercially feel free to make an Instructable or just use the ideas!1. Pop up amd normal tents.They seem to be the new standard now.Big with no poles on the inside and even someone who never used a tent can set them up.With the design comes a certain way of folding everything to pack it.Flexible solar cell designs won't break and can often be arranged so they would actually be able to replace parts of the outer tent material.And if it could mean they would get kinked too much and too often they are still perfect to create some "strap on panels" that can be rolled up and included with your foam underlay or mattress.A 200 or even 400W system can be transported easy and has less weight than a 80W fold up solution that you struggle to secure on your backpack or bike.2. Trackers!What is now almost a standard for fixed installations is still not seen in mobile setups.You pop up your panels, connect the power packs or batteries and go fishing, hiking or whatever.The sun moves on, the efficiency of the panels suffer.There are a lot of great Ibles for these solar trackers, from simple to 3 dimensional.Kites loves to use carbon fibre rods to reduce the weight.A tracking frame to hold a good sized flexible panel would count at less than 300 grams....In return you get up to 40% higher effiency and overall output compared to a fixed panel!Roll the panel up, fold the frame and you end up with a quite small roll that is easy to transport and very low in weight.3. Battery backups.No matter how long and well you planned, the weather might let you down shortly after your trip started.For a lot of comitted people that is no problem.The lack of power though can cause some to struggle to keep their video logs running.Your small drone might be great but it only lasts for less then 30 minutes until you need fresh batteries.Similar story if you use stabilizers, automatic tilt and pan gadgets or just a 360° camera.Just your cell phone alone can be a hassle if you use it as the main thing for GPS, pics and videos.At least one set of spare batteries seems to be a must have these days.For a lot of things it does make sense, for others not so much.Unless you really need ongoing power it might be enough to just charge you empty battery at the end of the day.But then the sun is down and options are gone for solar energy.In the RC area we can find a lot of powerful battery packs.Usually around 14V but 40 or more are no problem.And if you check the E-bike and scooter sections you will find some quite powerful and light weight battery packs.If you go outdoors a lot and for longer periods of time then it makes sense to replace the multiple battery options with just a single one.Use a high power backup battery with your solar system.DC-DC converters make it possible to literally combine everything with everything.Select the battery size so it will suit your charging needs and capabiliteis of the solar setup.Once time to close the tent you enjoy electricity to finnish your logs while your batteries are being charged during the night from the backup.4. Emergency generator.We all know these cheap gadgets like crank up torches or cranking mobile phone chargers.Nice to play with, utterly useless if you actually have to rely on them.A full charge for your modern phone might mean you crank for at least half the day - good luck!If you already carry a supply of gas for your cooking needs then these new fuel cells running on butane might be nice.Some of the Kickstarter projects actually made it into production!Prices though are more for real fans or those with enough money...But a small RC engine can drive some nice DC motor with very little fuel....In return you get a pocket sized generator that can charger your phone fully in the same amount of time a wall charger would...

Topic by Downunder35m  


Official Instructables Logos

Occasionally Instructables authors ask for images of the robot to use in their projects. Here are some images, which are available for non-commercial use. If you have questions about image use off of the site, please contact us at service@instructables.com

Topic by seamster    |  last reply


I need a velcro-receptive ("loop") that is adhesive on one side. What do I need to search for on eBay?

Hi everyone.I need a one side adhesive, velcro-receptive tape.That is, an adhesive tape that is sticky on one side and on the other it has a felt-like tissue.English is not my first language and I am not sure about what to search for on eBay or Aliexpress to buy.I need this for my project but all the tapes I could find have both sides (both hook and loop) and they are much costlier than what I'd expect just for a felt-like one-side adhesive tapes.Can you help me please?Thank you,Atkers

Question by atkers    |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Looking for a cheap 3D printer

Hi! I am looking for a cheap 3D printer that is easy enough to set up for teenagers.Could anyone give me some suggestions?Thanks a lot!

Question by Laney02    |  last reply


Arduino wireless weather station

I built the Arduino wireless weather station that I found on a "Instructables" video. Everything works great and I love the project. On the 3.2" display I have one problem, the "outdoor temperature" gets all scrambled up almost like it doesn't clear the previous displayed temperature reading. The humidity and barometric pressure readings look fine. I can clear up the display if I press the reset button but within a few seconds it gets all scrambled up again. Any ideas what to do? Thanks again for a great project!

Question by jcann9960    |  last reply


Floppy disk Welding Goggles

The new MacGyver used floppy disks as welding eye protection. I recently found a floppy, and tore it apart. It seems to be a very dark filter, but does it filter UV?

Question by Toga_Dan    |  last reply


Paper cutter fix needed !

The cutter blade is now stuck in the up position and can't be lowered. Could I use the beautiful instruction on how to refurbish a similar cutter (but different brand). Seems daunting if there is a simple adjustment instead of removing every screw and hoping to get it back together. (first time site user)Thanks

Question by gale olson    |  last reply


Anyone have any interest or experience with proximity based BLE iBeacons/Sensors?

Hi All, I'm semi-tech. & new to the community but figured I'd reach out, so please bear with me as I describe the following ask.Since last yr. I've been on the hunt for a small iOT sensor that based upon close proximity can be identified & actived via BLE without an attached app. Thought an Eddystone may work but purchased a few nRF51822 semiconductors but haven't tested them as yet & not sure if it's even the proper solution. I would need to program this beacon/sensor to launch a website, video on nearby cellphones. NFC works perfect but is extremely limited to only a 5cm range & requires an NFC capable device.I was told to try: "Perhaps the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ could work since it supports BLE and also has WiFi:https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-... "But I'll need something much smaller [see attached] & less costly per unit. I'm envisioning something no larger than a quarter & powered possibly by a watch battery. Do you think the nrf would suffice?Any suggestions I'm super open as well as just ideation. Thx in advance.

Topic by AxelFoley77  


MAX7219 Matrix LED TIMER

Hello everyone!Im trying to make a simple stopwatch with Arduino using a MAX7219 Matrix module and a button. Ive seen several codes for the MAX7219 Red 8 Bit Digital Tube LED but they don't work for the Matrix.My intention is to create a stopwatch that with one press of the button activates, with a second press it stops, and with the third one it restarts. Does anyone know how to incorporate a stopwatch into the MAX7219 Matrix?Thanks!!

Question by MauroGB    |  last reply


Oculus GO - The little sideloading guide

It seems making an Instructable these days requires lots of pictures, detailed steps and tons of instructions.So before I try to paste my attempt here, I will point something out for the support team:1. There is little point in including pictures of a VR headset or how to plug a USB cable in. Same for images showing a DOS window and the command typed in it - they are the same as in the instructions...2. With little to no option to create an Instructable that requires actual code usage and properly embedded picture, let alone good editing options: How do you suggest one would accomplish this taks?3. With no category to post such Instrucables it is my personal opinion that these catergories need quite some updates! They are still the same as years ago despite life evolving around it...If you just went into the mobile VR world then you might feel a bit restricted compared to what you know from your smartphone.Over the months firmware updates provided us with some much needed things but a bit is still left out. In this Ible I will try to show way to get a bit more out of your GO. Be aware that a lot of it still requires a bit of manual work and a computer.If you are just curious then please read on and you might still find something interesting that you did not know yet.Getting started...One thing we certainly need is a way to access the GO and to install additional apps on it that are not available in the store.For this we need to activate the developer options. Unlike your normal Android device this step works only from the device you paired with your GO. Go into the settings and there look for the developer mode. Once you try to activate it Oculus requires you to sign up for a developer account. All this of course needs to be confirmed through Email activation, you know just to make it complicated and get more info about you ;) From there it is straight forward and like on any Android. Activate USB debugging, pair with your computer by USB cable and on the GO authorise the connection. Please also tick the box to make this permanent as otherwise you will be prompted every time. In case you are not so familiar with this just Google how to use ADB on Android - it is simple. I will add the required files and drivers in a later step dedicated to it.If you need more help getting the right options done or where to find them, please consider the great help for this offered on the Oculus developer sites. It makes sense to spent some time there as you find a lot of good info that might come in handy once you really want to get serious.ADB - A must have...You will find the drivers and all, as said, a bit later. ADB is the Android Debug Bridge. It allows us to get access to the (user)available file systems, do some basic tests and if supported even flash a firmware or make a backup.If you already used ADB for another Android device then you will only need the drivers for the GO. Otherwise you need to set up the enviroment for the Debug Bridge first. In the downloads will be a simple installer for this purpose. It is vital that you authorise your computer on the GO, best to tick the box to make it permanent.If you open a command prompt where you have ADB installed you can do some simple tests. Setting all required paths and system variables in Windows would allow you to access ADB functions from any folder on your computer. The later might be easier if you do not want to copy all related files into your ADB folder. Makes no real difference though and is up to your preferences.The command ADB devices should show you now that your GO is connected by listing it. If nothing shows up then please check the USB debugging option is set in the developer options. A reboot might help too in some cases. With this sorted we are good to go, almost at least...How to install "unknown" apps?As you might have noticed there is no playstore and all available stuff in the official store is VR based.Getting some essential apps on it seems to be impossible.Again the help offered by Oculus in the developer sections is a vital source, so please don't be afraid to read there ;) There are two basic ways of doing things on a device with so many restrictions.1. Just use ADB install packetname Where packetname is the filename for the app in question, for example Netflix.apk. With all apps you need in one place this is quickly done.2. Use a dedicated app installer or manager for the job. I will include one that actually works with the downloads. Same fore more detailed instructions.The thing is though that only apps designed and signed for VR will show up in your normal launcher. All other (supported) Android apps will show up in "unknown sources" in your library. Apps not supported for this purpose won't show anywhere! For them you need a dedicated launcher, which will be placed in the "unknown sources" section ;)Why do I spoon feed you here you might wonder? To be honest: If you already read some terms and basics it will be much easier to remember. Repetition is the key ;) I see little point in providing a simple to follow list of intructions as a week later you would struggle to do it again without the list in front of you.Our first unknown apps!Deciding what you might need in apps is one thing, knowing in what order you can safe hours of your life is another. I simply don't think you want to juggle with ADB whenever you want a new app that is not available in the official store. So for starters we will need something that is able to install apps for us. And since we can't use it without something to find and start it we also need an app starter. Basically like HALauncher for Android TV.The detailed instructions for this can be found with the downloads. First the app starter is installed, it will provide us with a living room like view onto a big screen. On the screen you will find all apps that are otherwise invisible to you. Some might tempt you to try them out - just don't! Unless you really know what you are doing you have a good chance to do something bad. Use the apps you know and the apps you added but none of the tempting system apps you might see.The APK installer will show up there too and is used to make installing apps a bit easier. You can copy them now onto your GO's internal storage and use the app installer to install them - how easy is that? Another option I included is the Aurora store - a fork of the YALP store and able to work without any playstore requirements. Downside is that the VR controllers are not fully supported yet as it is more aimed at TV sets. A BT touchpad works though if the controller or a gamepad fail. I only included Aurora as it could be a nice alternative one day with full VR support. Just search or browse for all the apps available in the playstore and install what you like. Be aware though that not everything will work with the remote. Some games and apps can be operated with a game controller though.It is getting nicer already ;)By now you might have already installed some things as you just could not wait to skip to the downloads.Well, can't really blame you, can I?Anyways, we now have the option to install more apps that we know from our non-VR Android devices. Oculus might make it harder in the future though - or they see it the same way and offer ready to go options one day. Till then it is up to you....Youtube VR might be nice but it is also still quite buggy and lacks some basic features. So getting a modded Youtube app could be a way out if you need comments for example. Kodi is still a must have for many Android users, especially the sport nuts with us. A filemanager is also something most Android users value. I will include some but again it comes down to what YOU prefer here. And with a basic way to install apps now you can also remove them again if you decide they don't work as expected.Get a bit used to the app launcher and how to install apps. Sideloading is fine for those used to it but some might prefer to just copy some apps on the GO and them use the installer with the remote. In the near future we will get support for external sorage, so using a USB stick or SD card in a reader will make the USB cable obsolete for file transfers. Some headsets already support it, so chances are by the time you read this yours will too. Although it still is a good way to keep your GO charged while copying big files ;)Precautions and Words of WisdomIt all sound nice and easy now but there are dangers you need to be aware of! Installing apps or games that are not fully designed for the GO or VR use can mean crashes. A lot will work but that does not mean it will keep doing so. A firmware update could one day end the support for sideloaded apps that are "non-VR". Especially messing with the app launcher can mean sudden disaster. Things you normally can not see are often hidden from you for a good reason. I will take no responsiblity for problems you caused by misusing system apps !Console emulators are a lot of fun and there are ways to even stream them from your PC in reasonable quality on a low end computer. But these and some demanding games also cause a lot of CPU usage. As the system is not optimised for 2D content it can mean that your battery runs out faster. In some cases you might not see the warning to charge, so be aware of time when immersing yourself.Stay away from any app or game that requires playstore components! Play Games for leaderboards might be no issue, especially if you don't need this feature. Online gaming like multiplayer actions will not work if it requires Google services for it! Similar story for hardware you don't have. If it is only designed for touchscreens than it might not work with the remote. And if it does not support gampads either... Apps that only support the wrong display orientation are a no go too.What Non-VR Stuff Actually Works on the GO?A lot and it will be possible to do even more. There are already streaming options for your own videos like Skybox, Moonplayer and they all support DLNA servers too. So watching normal, 3D or VR movies from a media server is no problem at all already. Getting games to work is another story all up. ALVR is a good platform to stream VR games from your PC to the GO. Unlike the Rift you won't even need an overpowered gaming PC for it. Virtual Desktop is a paid app but well worth the money if the support and features keep going as they do right now. With it you can use your computer or laptop from the GO. Watch movies, surf the net, play games. The GO more or less becomes a normal Windows computer only that you have the screen right in front of you.It will certainly be possible to code a simple VR app that works as a shortcut for non-VR apps. Like how right now you get the pic and description for a VR exerience and a button that starts the stream in the player. Downside is the requirement to certify such an "app" to make it visible in the normal launcher.Downloads and Instructions....Finally you get to the point where you can actually download something :)To make it all a bit easier and to ensure I won't miss a vital bit I did a factory reset on my GO to start from scratch :(Things might change in the future, so I will include the instructions as texfiles with the download.If I see a real requirement for screenshots I will include them with corresponding filenames.I think this way it is easier than scrolling through an Instructable as you can just print it all directly.Those without an account (yet) might value this too.Based on the feedback, questions and general comments I will change the contents of the download accordingly.Same for download links to avoid bloating up the download with outdated files.Easier for you (if you read this a few months from now) to download the newest files directly from the source.So don't be too disappointed if the download seems to contain less than what you expected.What seems to be missing will have links in the instructions.No files will come from unverified or unsecure sources!Whatever I include in the downloads directly will be checked for malware of all kinds.The same standards are true for the sources I provide.So no clickbait, ad sponsored re-directors or such crap.Please read the detailed instructions carefully, then read them again while actuall following the steps on your GO or computer.Do not blindly read it and jump onto doing it the first read!For ADB commands just copy and paste them - I might write some batch files though, so check for them in the instructions and make use of them.Things might not work out as planned, so if in doubt double check all the steps taken.What is in the provided instructions is tested on my GO's and works on the firmware version current of this writing.Download the guide and files from FilefactoryIn case the PDF in the download is not detailed enough, just ask in the comments ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


I need an air moisture meter and possibly a thermometer in one.

Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.

Topic by PavelA12    |  last reply


Site updates, upcoming changes and developments

As it seems the support team is still working hard to improve this ection I would like to take the opportunity to provide a base for everyone.Users can post bugs they find, feedback or suggestions for features they would like to see or have here.The support team could be so nice to keep us updated about what is planned and when to expect some problems or hick ups.Maybe even a list of things already in the planning for us.There is already a quite long list of requests that grew over the years, so maybe the support team could start the conversation with some infos? ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


How to make a 230v AC power bank?

I would like to make an AC power bank but don't know exactly all the parts to get any help.

Question by OTKZuki    |  last reply


When I click the Download all that comes up is {"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"} Answered

Basically for the last few days I have not been able to download any Instructables even thought I have a valid and Current membership so what can I do

Question by wnorman    |  last reply


Negative Ion Generator

Hello everyonei have a Question.How can i apply a negative Ion Generator/Charger on me without hurting myself too much?? the Voltage would be too much i assume.

Question by Atlasx111    |  last reply


I have an 70's style turntable/radio console.

It is a large floor model with a flip up center which houses the turntable and radio. How can modernize it? Brand: Admiral AM/FM Stereo Multiplex I will be replacing the turntable, what do you suggest about the radio?

Question by 000000robot    |  last reply


Huge ball valves, worth to refurbish?

I have now already two of these huge ball valves we have on a machine at work.Soon I will have one or two more...The replacements always cost well in excess of $500, just for the part, excluding labour.If I am correct than even these big guys can be dismantled like their small cousins.Screw the screwed side open, remove the turning mechanism and them push the actual valve out.Please correct me if that might be different!The actual problem with ours is that after a few years of 24/7 use they start to leak through - not out in anyway.A visual inspection without taking them apart show build up on the ball part.No scratch marks or other damages that I can see.Where there is no build up it is shiny like a mirror.The seal are blue and clearly show the same abuse as the ball.I tried with some aluminium poking tool I made up and the debris is really hard and baked on onto these seal rings.My assumption is that only the seals started to fail.And as they are consumables I am starting to wonder if it is worth trying to find replacements and to clean up the valve after taking it apart.With only a manufacturer (from the machine, not the valve) part number but no markings or anthing on the valve itself I struggle to find any online place to check for genuine rebuild kits :(Any links for sites with lots of balls valves pictures (to be motorised) so I might one that looks identical?Last but not least: How to unscrew the damn thing?? LOLI tried in a vice with the largest set of plumbing pliers I could boorow but it won't budge at all.Would need an about 48mm spanner to grab the "nut" part of the valve.The pliers are almost a meter long but even swearing like the worst guy in town did not help to make anything move.Before cutting a custom made spanner from some re-inforcing steel plates: Is there any proper way of unscrewing a big ball valve?

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Can you help me to find or build a digital metronome

Hi, I'm a drummer and it would be really handy if I could have a clip on digital metronome I could mount on my bass drum rim or somewhere accessible. I would like one with 3 digits about 12mm square with a knob to adjust speed and the digits that display the speed flash on/off in beats per minute at the selected speed. I havent been able to find anything like this on the market tho my electronic drum kit control module has one it takes too long to reset. I'd like to be able to reach down, twirl the knob from Eg. 100 to 120 BPM I guess on/off would be handy too. This would allow a visual reference to the correct tempo for a piece of music and I'm hoping there might be a kit or someone could tell me how to build one. Thanks y'orl, Ruffy

Question by AuspolRefugee    |  last reply


Replies for questions and topics still not working

I tried for about half an hour to answer some questions but gave up due to being unable to enter any text.Logging out and back did not help, same for a reboot.Guess I am not the only one trying to answer things to no avail....And by the way: Do we get a fix for the useless categories?Fail to see the point of selecting a catergory and channel if nothing ever appears in said areas...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Medical Device. Cash Compensation

Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Possible prototype for a Medical Device. Cash Compensation. I am in Toronto. Not a scam.

Topic by dnicol1    |  last reply


Adding to my collection

I found an instrucable that I want to add to my collection. How do I do that?

Question by Gromo9    |  last reply


How do I tell if my neighbors are connected to my water meter? Answered

I live in a three apartment unit and there are two water meters. My landlord insists that my other two neighbors are connected and pays for their water. As a single unit with one meter, he can stick me with the bill. However, I have been having some exceptionally high water bills in my current apartment and I suspect that one of my neighbors might be connected to my water supply. Is there any way I can tell, short of calling a plumber and having the water turned off?

Question by randofo    |  last reply


Is Instructables an international website ?

My question could appear a little strange but i'll try to explain...English is not my natural born language but my skills are good enought to understand most of instructables, and anyways, english is know the only international language. And it's not a problem.the problem is about metering ! i'm really in troubles with imperials / us measure !the IS is universal ! There is only 3 country in the world using pounds, inches, or other exotic measurment !It's really hard for normal people !So my question should be " Is Instructables an "america's first" website ? Maybe instructables could be write using the IS instead... should be great for the 4 billions human wich are nor American, Burmese or Liberian !Thanks for readingRomain

Question by romfrom    |  last reply



Some statistics

Do people really answer these questions?

Question by marc.deloor.5    |  last reply


What does #-#-# in a knitting pattern mean? Answered

I found a knitting pattern I'd love to make real, but I have never knitted off of a pattern. I was able to get the bread and butter of it down, but I'm confused by the #-#-# format I'm seeing all over.  This is the pattern I am using: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/22-23-1-cashmere-dress Thanks in advance! 

Question by DoctorWoo    |  last reply


Concrete propane grill - Heat issues?

I'll be making a concrete counter top for my outdoor kitchen. I'll shape a "box" in the concrete (just like a concrete sink), and build the propane burners into that. Will I run into any heat issues with the concrete? Should I line it with something to shield it from heat?

Topic by DenMike99    |  last reply


How to convert 120VAC to 90VDC @ .5amps?

Hello, I'm looking for a circuit the will convert 120VAC to about 90 VDC at .5 amps. If anyone could suggest a schematic or point me in the right direction of one that would much appreciated!

Topic by bigjohn412    |  last reply


Cyclists....

Just for fun this time!We all love bycicles.Enjoy nature, loose some kilos or just having some fun with the kids.I even like to ride if I find the time and the right weather.But what about those courier riders in the city?Those fitness fanatics riding in a pack of 30 and surprising you on a winding mountain road by fully blocking it...The guy hitting you from behind on the traffic lights because he was only looking on his phone...Or maybe this drunk guy in the middle of the night not even realising that he uses the entire road...What is your worst nighmare experience with someone using just legs to get two wheels moving?And: What is your worst nightmare experience as a cyclist yourself?The guy cutting you off while turning and running over your bike?Someone "accidentally" opening their door when you ride past their car?Or maybe these parks constantly blocking the bike lanes and forcing you to go into the traffic?

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Chinese laser cutter repair

Anyone in Boston area able to provide or know of a source for service for these chinese made machines. We are a public high school, with an 8 thousand dollar 80 watt co2 paper weight.

Topic by GeorgeF83    |  last reply


How to harness the energy in snow

I found a thread that asked this question previously on instructables but the author wanted to harness the kinetic energy of falling snow, and many of the criticisms involved the unpredictability of when snow will fall.I am specifically curious if it is possible to create a machine to remove snow that uses the energy of the snow itself. Ideally, it would melt the snow and use the water or steam to power itself.The things Canadian winters do to the mind...

Topic by shareefhadid    |  last reply


How to get my refund back?

I have subscribed for 2.95$ anually and unfortunately i did not notice the small text underneath that they will charge me 35.40$ + 1 $ on my credit card which i don't want to pay at all that much. I sent to service@instructables.com an email asking for my refund, but no answer. So we cannot change our mind especially although i asked for a refund with couple of minutes after charging me the amount? What should i do to get my refund back?

Question by RaymondK21    |  last reply


Legal consideration of steam boilers?

How large can a model steam boiler be before it has to be regulated/inspected/or subject to various other gov stupidity?

Question by PS118    |  last reply


Old Tv Speakers and Subwoofers

I have an old sansui tv, but ijust want to use its 2 speakers and 2 subwoofers, i means to convert it to only sound system, please help

Topic by dpokharna    |  last reply


How to Adjust the CO2 laser Speed/Power and Distance in VS. material and thickness

Good day everybody,You guys have any instructions/ Charts/ Tables to adjust my CO2 laser power, speed and distance away from the work-piece in accordance of every different material (i.e. Acrylic, Wood) and the thickness of each material (i.e. 3mm thickness of wood, 5mm thickness of wood)? Also, if you could write an example on how to use the instructions, charts or tables, I would really appreciate it,Thank you everybody in advance,Regards,Yousef,

Question by HY.designH    |  last reply


Height-adjustable tables: how best to motorize the lift? Answered

Seeking a DIY solution for building a height-adjustable table. How best to motorize/mechanize/hydraulicize the lift apparatus? I'd like to do this with a 2'x4' (or larger) writing/work surface. I'd also like to do it with a folding triangular IKEA "Lokka" table.  I.e., shorten the legs to make it coffee table size, but lift it back up to regular height.

Question by john.pull    |  last reply


How many NEMA 17 stepper motors can be on 1 stepper Motor Driver V44 A3967

Finding out how many can be added to one driver, if it is only one or can there be more

Question by Sweetcorn_18    |  last reply


ionocraft

For those that know (or those that frequent Google's everchanging homepage) today is Tesla's birthday. Just typing in his name into the instructables search brings up loads of Tesla coils but not much else. Some research into some of his other (lesser known/theoretical) inventions uncovered an idea for an ionocraft, a silent flying craft with no moving parts powered by high voltage. (not the place to debate the origin of the invention, Major de Seversky is credited as the inventor of the ionocraft, I am just regurgitating a thought I had while reading on Tesla)A quick search reveals that not only is it possible to build these simple machines, high school kids build them as science fair projects! Although fascinating, this project is outside the realm of my ability for now (read: until my brain grows). Anyone with an inkling?Seeing how there's no end to dangerous instructables, what's one more? (I'll even go the next step and provide you with some plans)

Topic by mikeasaurus    |  last reply


Electric bike motor help!

Helli guys.. after a long time racing motocross, I would like to experiment into doing an electric dirt bike for myself.. My plan is to find an 85 or 125cc frame with no engine, and build from that.. the biggest question is, what motor could I use that is no less than 15kw, and on the affordable side? I was looking at the Turnigy Rotomax 150cc eqiv. And it has a max power output at 9000 something watts, would that be any good for a motocross bike? Would it burn out quickly since its pretty small? Notes: i am strictly looking for powerful bikes, a 2kw bike is not for me since I am used to overpowered 250cc two stroke hell-born suicide machines, thanks..

Topic by dsirotic    |  last reply


Hp or Gateway Laptop?

I want a laptop but there are about 2 that are neck-and-neck in my decision.There's this HP which i really like its design and appearance and also the hardware inside it.http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9720310#And Then there's this Gateway which has a tiny bit of more parts like a different graphics card, larger hard drive, built in webcam, and lightscribe (not really concerned about these parts).http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8771297&type;=product&id;=1203815723402And I'm pretty sure i want the HP (more trusted brand in my opinion), but i just want a second opinion.

Topic by Caveman477    |  last reply


Getting help for an instructable

How do I get help if I am trying to build what the instructable is explaining and the creator of it is not answering?https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Project-Benc...Could someone else answer my questions?

Topic by fletch2770    |  last reply


Arduino

Looking for someone to write an arduino sketch for a stepper motor driven XY table Only looking for a basic, simple code Willing to pay but willing to accept volunteers also :)  Thanks!

Topic by PhillipF9    |  last reply


Leds on trailer still on even if the car is off

So, I changed tail light on my trailer for new led ones the problem is the car outputs 12v at all time (which is normal) 12v then splits to 6v. But when 6v is comming to led light its slightly light up (the lights are 12v 0,5w). when i switch on lights, 12v is comming to led lights and they work how they should. So I need a way to light up the leds only at 12v any ideas ?

Question by Ivo77    |  last reply