This is buzzbee I think or its nerf, no matter, I need help learning how to silence this thing. Maybe make an instructable and link me to it? That'd be great.
Question by ArchesRat
This is buzzbee I think or its nerf, no matter, I need help learning how to silence this thing. Maybe make an instructable and link me to it? That'd be great.
Question by ArchesRat
How To Create Frequency Specific Microcurrent? I am looking to build a two channel (A/B) microcurrent (allowing from 20 - 600 microamps) with selectable frequencies ranging from 3 to 970 Hz). This is based on a medical device that I'm looking to replicate. I've figured out some of this but again, considering the wealth of knowledge here I'm sure some would know the best way to build this. here are specifications Description Device Specs Frequency Range: 0.1 – 999.9 Hz programmable Wave Form: Square pulses Duty Cycle: 50% Current Intensity: 20μA to 400μA Constant current generator Output Polarity: Programmable alternating, positive or negative Output Load Resistance 0 to 100K ohm Output Channels: Two fully independent channels Output Connection: 3.5 mm mono phone jacks Programming Port: micro-USB Memory: Professional-up to 999 programmable protocols; Patient: up to 99 programmable protocols Power Supply: (2) AA alkaline batteries Dimensions: 5.1 x 3.2 x 1.2 inches Weight: 6.42 oz here is the link i am following https://mendtechnology.com/product/mend-professional-package/
Question by kedarg2 | last reply
I have instructions for extracting pure esential oil from plant material using butane. The problem I have with it is that at the end, the butane is vented. I just don't feel right about venting unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. I've been looking at glass lab equipment (distillation tubes, connectors, etc). I have no background in chemistry, but it seems to me it shouldn't be too difficult to put something together using standard glass lab equipment to capture, distill and reuse the butane. Butane boils at 31 degrees farinhite and is heavier than air. At the end of the process, the oil is scraped from the bottom of a drying dish. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put something like this together? Thanks
Question by GlobalVillageIdiot | last reply
Can i replace lcd tv lamps with led system? And how can i link with control main card for swish on off??
Question by mohammad_hasan
I'm making helmets that will require a mirror-like chrome finish. I've done a bit of looking, and have found spray paint (wont work, as the mirror finish is not there), actual chroming (WAY too pricey for me), or vinyl wrap. From everything I have seen, this [chrome vinyl wrap] will work wonderfully. However, the issues is that I do not know if I will have "seems" when/if I layer the vinyl. I'm sure I can avoid having to put seems on the helmets, but I would like to have my bases covered before I spend the money on the wrap itself. Also, on a related side note: will it [vinyl wrap] chip if applied to a car? I have another project that would require a decent chunk of vinyl wrapping on my car, and again, I would like to know everything before spending the money. thanks in advance!
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
If you don't know what Loquat means then just look it up on Google or Wikipedia ;)Mostly used as ornamental trees in the warmer climates Loquat fruits come into season right when the summer is on your doorstep.Although the fruits are delicious and high in nutrients, vitamins and so on: Most people do not even bother to try them :(So if you spot them please give the fruit a try and you might get hooked as did.The biggest problem of using Loquat for more than a direct snack is not the seeds inside.They are quite big and you figure ways out to get around them.Biggest hassle is how the fruits ripen.Unlike most real fruit trees there is fixed time.When the first fruits are ready then the last migh be ready about 3 or even 4 weeks later.And depending on the local wildlife you really need to check daily for ripe fruits....So how to do it properly then?Loquat goes bad really fast no matter what you try.Eat them quickly as otherwise they go off.Don't bother...Those are common answers you get from people who had those trees for years in their gardens.The trick however is really simple:Do not plug them off, cut them off!Some half decent pruning sizzors work great here, especially the smaller types.Cut the stem of the fruit so at least 5mm are left on the fruit.Without the hole from ripping the fruit off and handling it with gentle force there will be no damages or open areas ;)Like that the fruits stay fresh for a few days in your fridge, just make sure they are kept quite loose.Do not just fill a big box with them and hope all fruits survive the pressure ;)If in doubt layer them on soft foam strips or cardboard - works really well if can find complete clusters that are ripe enough.If you have access to more than one big tree you can get enough to even make a really nice wine from it.You need to be quick though, so let me tell you how I do it:Prepare a big enough fermentation vessel, in my case a 25 liter plastic drum, purpose made...Add about 10 liters of warm on prefably filtered water, some sugar and a good amount of your prefered brewing yeast.My personal favourite here is port wine yeast ;)You should prepare this drum once you can collect enough ripe fruits on a daily base.Prepare the fruits by removing the stems, the hard spot at the bottom and then cutting them in half.A small spoon can be sharpened to help to get the seeds out if have some with many little ones hiding.Have a pot with boiling water ready and put about 250 to 400 grams of prepared and cleaned fruits in it per load.A quick heating is essential as you want to keep the cooking time as low as poosible.90 to 120 seconds should be enough to get the heat throughout the fruit - please check every now and then that the fruits are quite soft now.This step is vital to prevent self fermentation - you only want your yeast cultures to work on the fruits ;)Squash the fruits when adding them into your drum.To make a full 25 liters with just a table spoon of sugar at the start you will need about 10 to 12 kg of fruits for a high volume and sweet result.The best option due to the constantly changing sugaar content in the fruits is to go with the flow.Stick to max of about 15 liters per 25 liter drum.Monitor the sugar content and alcohol level.Port yeast dies off at a bit over 14%vol of alcohol.Although some strong ones go up to 18% here...If the alcohol level goes over 10% while the sugar content is still quite high then you add water until you get down to about 7%.If the sugar content goes down too low you add more fruits.With still enough active yeast you can even transfer half oa drum to a new batch once the drum is getting too full and the sugar content is still too high.Just a matter of getting used to working with ongiong adding of fruits and water to compensate the time it takes to get enough ripe fruits.Of course there is always the option to go low and start with 5 liter canisters instead....
Topic by Downunder35m
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that I intend to customize just a little (well, a lot). Recently I was at a garage sale and bought a 6 disk CD changer for $1. I'm hoping this was a worthy investment since I want to install it in my glove compartment and wire it into a custom stereo system. That's all fine and dandy, but step one is to figure out how to reverse engineer the proprietary control systems. Eventually I want the air condititioning, stereo, and this 6 disk CD changer to be interfaced to a computer with a big ole touchscreen in the dash. I'm going to need to do a few things: 1. Figure out the wiring for the 6 disk CD changer so that I can power it up, control it through the computer, and connect it's audio output to my car's speakers. 2. Figure out the wiring for the air conditioner so I can control it with the computer. 3. Get a touch screen that fits in the dash (I'll measure it later), that I can use with a computer with (relative) ease. These are my goals for right now. If I can figure this out, I will be ready for the next phase, actually installing the new dash. If anyone can recommend any sources to learn more about basic car work, that'd be helpful too. I'm used to computers. The lid comes off. Screws are all easily accessible. Parts don't weigh more than I do. I know where everything goes and what everything does inside. Since a car is so proprietary, and such a new field for me to be working in, ANY resources would be greatly appreciated. How do I figure out how to take things apart in my car? FYI: The disk changer is marked with part number 39115-s3v-a011-m1 Update (18 August 2012): I added some pictures. The connector I am holding is the only connector that comes out of the box.
Question by meztek | last reply
I have an mp3 / bluetooth module, which I currently use with a set of buttons extended out in parallel from the board ( https://www.instructables.com/id/Bolts-As-Bottons-...). I'd like to make another system using a similar mp3 module and a set of capacitive touch switches ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-TTP223-Capacitive-... )in the original, I just soldered a lead either side of the momentary switches on the board, however the capacitive switches have two power connections, (vcc and ground) and a single output connection so I cant connect them in the same way, how can I connect these switches to be the controls for the mp3 module please?
Question by oragamiunicorn
When looking for a place to publish my instructable about "Making Unique, Light Catching Laminated Wood, Plastic and Copper Ornamental Turnings," I put it under crafts. The thought of looking for the subtopic "woodwork" didn't occur to me at the time I posted it, and I was focused on a glitch in the instructables web site. The item does belong under woodworking, since it was a wood-acrylic ornament turned on a wood lathe.How do I move it. Do I have to destroy the one under crafts and start all over pulling photos in?
Question by KellyCraig
I've always been a fan of old how to books. They often have tips and techniques you don't find in contemporary books. Sometimes they are just plain strange. Other times they are painfully outdated, like an old Popular Mechanics article I came across that shows you how to improve your toaster by adding asbestos to it. Last weekend I stumbled upon this old doll making book at a thrift store. The entire book shows how to make dolls in a kind of odd folk art style, and would never get printed today.In spite of the fact I don't really have room for more books right now, I couldn't help myself and bought it anyhow.Has anyone else come across any interesting how to books lately, or have favorite classics in their collection?
Topic by randofo | last reply
I have a real tattoo gun but i dont have enough money to buy the power supply so im trying to buil one . Does anybody know how? or is it even possible to do
Question | last reply
This is the unofficial knex contest! There are a few other knex contests with a certain theme, but in this contest, you can enter anything! Let's get on to the rules: How to Enter: Make a instructable that uses knex. Make a comment with a link to the instructable, than I might accept it. Your instructable has to be made in 2017 or up. You can have three entries entered at a time, but only one of them can win. What to Enter: Enter an instructable that is mostly knex and has instructions. If it uses to much non-knex, than I won't accept it. It has to have good instructions, or it won't get accepted. If it is something small, I will make it to see if it works and to see how good it is. A big ball machine will be accepted if you have instructions of some of the elements. When Will It Be: It will start now and go to November 1. If I get 20 entries before the ending date, I will quit the contest regardless of the date. Prizes: There will be a grand, first, second, third, and runner up. Grand Prize: Follow from me, votes on all your ibles that you have in contests, and a 3 month pro, and your winning ible in a knex contest winners collection. First Prize: Follow from me, vote on all your ibles that you have in contests, and your winning ible in a knex contest winners collection. Second Prize: Follow from me and your winning ible in a knex contest winners collection. Third Prize: Vote one of your ible, and your winning ible in a knex contest winners collection. Runner Up: Your winning ible in a knex winners contest collection. If you have any questions, please ask! That's all! Have fun! Current Entries: Element Force's Shotgun Turret for the TR8 The Knex Inventor's Toothebrush Holder KneXFAN200's Fidget Spinner KneXFAN200's Annoying Clicker Box
Topic by random_builder | last reply
I started writing a new Instructable and noticed that when I use the preview function the pictures are cut off and therefore weirdly off centre. For some of the pictures it doesn't really matter, but some like I said look weird (as shown in the pictures). I don't see why there is a need to cut the pictures. Is this just an error and will it look better once the instructables is published?
Topic by BrittLiv | last reply
Instructables is unusable on the iPad due to advertisement redirects constantly taking you to a new page. Horrible “Congratulations!!!! You won an Amazon or Walmart Gift Card! Pop ups and redirects. Please fix! This happens in Chrome or Safari in multiple IOS versions. This has been happening for several weeks now.
Topic by Frankincell | last reply
I'm going to rigg this model of a dragon around a room https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/3d-rigging-mo..., with the head coming from a corner, measuring 1.8m wide. It's gonna be huge.made of cardboard cut with a cnc machine.Is there a cheaper/better way to do this other than using 123dmaker with interlocked sliced and still make it look good?im gonna do this https://www.instructables.com/id/Cardboard-Statue-... , should I do it differently?I will use this method for finishing https://www.instructables.com/id/Fine-Art-from-Car...I will use a lot of cardboard sheets and cnc time.Any way to make the model like this? https://www.instructables.com/id/Large-Scale-Star-... seems cheapershould I use this method and how will I make it look good? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UHGruOgELQ
Question by DIAGONALLIS
I want to select a dc motor for my e bike project. I want to move a mass of 140 kg including cycle weight at top speed of 25km/h. I am confused with selecting motor specification, on Power rating. How can I calculate the required Power to drive a weight of 140kg with a speed of 25km/h. I have tried to use the formula that I found in the website ( http://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.… ) . The power rating that I got is about 179W. But on reading of the articles on (investigating the human cycling performance), I found that the average people cycling power is less than 100W. I also have see the commercial e-bike specification, the commercial e-bike used 24V 250W DC motor to power their e-bike. Please help me in this matter, I am very confused with this, if there is any formula or calculation...please guide me ...I am appreciate your helps.
Question by rchan10 | last reply
The site seems to be logging me out as I am browsing the instructables. I tried to re-log in but it wouldn't let me. I am using firefox, just downloaded it to my computer last week since I saw that the site is best viewed with that browser. Really kind of annoying because then I can't view a whole instructable on one page. Dennis
Topic by foothillfrontier | last reply
Hello! I am totally green at this so forgive me if this is a stupid question! I want to connect a motor with these values Rated Voltage DC 12V Rated Current 0.03A Speed 20000RPM For a battery type this. Lead-acid battery Voltage 12 V Capacity 2.0Ah Do I need to use a resistor to avoid burning the motor? / Wolf
Question by wolfsphoto | last reply
Last week I was "volunteered" by friend to help setting up a rented and empty factory building for what he called a VR gaming party.My job was down to somehow get enough cables and power outlets from that rented industrial power box inside the building.And well, organising about 800m of network cables with routers, switches and whatnots :(After a hard days work and testing all we went for a well deserved beer.Next day I pooped in to see how the computers are going and where things like tables, catering stations, portable toilets and so would go.Well, the later ended outside for various reasons...To my surprise all hardware was basically boxed in and then padded all around.And although not even running at full capacity the computers already created a lot of heating the building.(Mind you we getting into the summer here)The most confusing thing was seeing several elevated work platforms with people creating a maze of wires about 2.5m above floor level.Now it dawned on me that this "party" might slightly more than what I was used to in my gaming years.Was curious enough to ask if I could jump in again when the actual thing starts and was invited for a quick test later that night.Walking around in an empty building while thinking you are inside some racing game was a strange thing to say the least.I learned why there where two people around me and my brain not always makes the right decisions without the sensory information provided by my ears matching what my eyes see.A bit later when most players where set up and active I realised that this type of VR is not for me.Ever seen those movies where someone has really bad halucinations and tries to fight against something that is not really there?Yes, that is exactly how it looked like LOLSometimes all is in slow motion then suddenly they jump shoot their virtual guns and go for cover...I guess if you are not in it then you just won't understand.Watching the screens for a while I could at least find some relation to the action but it was like another world if you know what I mean ;)What do you think will the near a slightly further future bring us in terms of virtual reality?Will it affect us as badly as social media and mobile phones already do or will it bring some real benefits for everyone?By the way: Virtual Reality Cars are already in the design visions!Self driving cars that put you into another world while driving - why think you sit in the car if you can put the seat back and immerse yourself into a virtual beach?
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
So my friends got me with a prank, so now I need to prank them back. Two of my friends, I either don't have access to their house, or I am not able to see very often. One friend, I created an ad to have people call him with their best Chewbacca impressions. But I am stumped on what to do for my other long distanced friend.
Topic by KaylaR44 | last reply
The typewriter is an AEG Olympia ES-95i. It's a big beige electronic machine from maybe the late 70s or early 80s.On the back there is a 20 pin rectangular male connector with 2 rows of 10 pins. If I connect random pins with something metal, it types various characters. I'm wondering if anybody knows what kind of interface this thing might use so I can go about connecting it to my computer.EDIT1:I've found a bit more random information about this type of device which might help:http://www.atarimagazines.com/creative/v9n6/133_Praxis_makes_perfect_Oli.phpApparently Olympia made another typewriter in the same line that was basically the same as a bytewriter model. Irritatingly the article says the bytewrite provides no technical information "other than the pin-out assignments for the connector. "It would appear from the rest of the article that the connector might be some kind of modified centronics interface.I'll try to get a picture up soon.EDIT2:Here's the photo. Whatever it is I hope it turns out to be bidirectional so I can use this as a tty :).
Question by pharoah | last reply
So here's my situation... I've lost the key to my U-lock - I'm fairly certain it fell out of my pocket while I was sitting - somewhere :/... Any recommendations on how to cut it? After chewing up 1 hacksaw blade to it's dull tomb, I'm fairly certain it's made from hardened steel. Bugger. From past expirience, bolt cutters don't play nice with hardened steel :p Recommendations? oh, and it's a decent lock - picking isn't an option :/
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I'm new to arduino. I managed to get one working for my phoenix headpiece, however I'm working on a new project and would love to make something with multiple patterns on about a meter of neopixel strip. I'm not that interested in learning how to write arduino code, and after struggling just to get one basic pattern working last time I am wondering if there are either out of the box controllers out there with pre-programmed patterns (does this exist?), or good apps for generating code that offer something other than frenetic chase/blink type patterns. I really like more organic and/or slow fading patterns. I've found a few things searching online, but given my newness I'm having a hard time narrowing in on what would be best for a total noob :) One alternative to arduino that came up was Pixelblaze, in case anyone has ever used one of those controllers.Any advice welcome!
Question by Natalina
I would like to ask your suggestions on how to build an outdoor ESP2866 security and sensors combo. I have seen separate postings on PIR and lights around the site and in other websites so I thought it would be doable. I knew Arduino then but only paid close attention when I realized that my x-10s are outmoded but z-wave devices are expensive. So I am learning about it, how to sketch and trying to understand C++ more. My dream is to build an outdoor ESP2866 combo, powered by an AC120v-5v module, with two PIR motion sensors, three 120v relay switches (two relays for two sets of security floodlights and one relay for an amp/wave speaker with mic), a photo (dusk/dawn) sensor and temperature/humidity sensor (for a future thermostat). Operationally, I imagine that it could be armed and disarmed through Blynk. When armed at daytime, a motion will trigger a low volume intruder MP3 warning alert with 10 minutes of security lights at night. But if the trigger persists for more than 5 minutes, the security floodlights will blink, a loud intruder alarm will sound and push phone notifications. What will be the best way to sketch these? What is the better way of wiring them together? How could I make multiple ESP2866s in the same WAN work together for an event? The desired function is if an alarm event is triggered in one of the ESP2866 that would also set off blinking lights and alarm sounds in the other ESPs. Thanks for all your help.
Topic by EeA2 | last reply
Since there is no place for it right now I just created a topic for the purpose of collecting bugs we find.Let me start with a little list I collected so far:1. Confusion!When I create a new topic I need to select a category and channel.So where exactly are these categories and channels?Somehow I struggle to find them anywhere else than in the two drop down menus when creating a new topic.If we have all those drop down options then why can't we make proper use of them?2. List problems!I know there is planned work on the way we see the cummunity section but still...When I create a new topic then it seems to be nowhere.I check again a few hours later and still nowhere.Next day often the same storey.Where does a new topic go and when does it appear in the community section?3. Sorting - this one is already being worked on I guess.We really need a working option to sort postings and replies by time and date and relation.I get notified about a reply and check...Hmm, about 80 replies and somehwere, someone wrote something new...Good if you can copy and past a part of the preview to search for it in the browser manually...Comfort and logic is needed to replace the current confusion and inconsistences.As for suggestions to get the section up to what what both developers and users turn into happy campers:1. Editing options!!!For years this is my number one that not just got more and more ignored but also reduced to nothing.Anyone creating a topic should have direct control over it.This means beain able to create the post in a way the poster sees fit for the purpose.The basic text editing options any Vbulletin or PhPBB board would offer should be available here in a similar way.Embedded text and images in the size and place that fits - either by posters choice for the size on the screen or by providing a fixed sized preview that opens a fullsie view when clicking on it.Code is more important these days than back then when I first asked for option to embed it here.Tags are useful for a lot of things.Add a quote from a previous post or reply, add a code window that allows proper copy and past action for both poster and reader (preferably with highlighted syntax like in Notepadd++, ....You can only provide dedicated help if you have the right tools for it.And you can not ask for dedicated help if you can even properly post the problem due to restrictions and limitations in the editing system.Coloered text, other than for code is not really required but all the basics anyone knows froma real forum would be a great addition.2. Tagging or otherserwise highlighting the areas of the topic.If I already create a post in the technology section than it would only make sense to see a corresponding icon next to the topic in the community section.Same for coding help, mechanical problems and so on.The current sections and categories are outdated and a lot of things are missing.Mabye not in terms of Intructables but certainly for the community sections.3. Structure....Currently it is all one big blob and not even the sorting works (yet).This is perfect for people like me wanting to quickly check if something new was posted but not so good for someone trying to have some fun browsing.Imagine you want to spend some quality time checking what problems people have or what help they seek when it comes to woodworking.No search options, no list options, no categories to explore.Back in the day we had a few sections and a basic sorting option, like by most recent.Someone only interested in helping with coding on Arduino wouldn't even bother here and move on.On the other hand, people with no clue how to fully specify their problem might find a solution just by browsing through the corresponding section.4. Linking Instructables....I don't know the reason for it or the idea behind it but why again is the question section filled with Instructables?And why look lot of Tips like Instructables?I mean if it is for the user to find stuff than it might bind him on the website, but I doubt it will be satisfactory for the user.Questions or tips in regards to an Instrubale should be there- with the Instructable but not in the community section.Add it a tab for the Ible instead...I see little to no point in answering to a question someone has in regards to a specific Ible unless "I made it"....5. Voting and closing...When it comes to forums then one thing all have in common: bloat.People only register to post something but never come back.Topics are solved, done and dusted.Topics gone dormant for months or even years.Great answers or vital details get lost.The list goes on....What it comes down to is that order needs to be restored and maintained.Open an archive section and start moving out.Topics of certain age and with no new replies - gone.Topics where the user never again logged in - gone.Topics voted or request to be closed, closed or gone to the ariche as well.Topics voted to be of general interest pinned somewhere for easy reference - like this one ;)A thread starter got his answer and is happy? Then for crying out loud let him vote or credit the best answer and close the topic.More than three people voted or tagged a topic as useless, not possible or similar - close it so it can one day go in the archive section too.All this and more should create a community section that once again can become an active playground for everyone.A place to seek and find help.And who knows, maybe some of the good old guys might even consider a return and more time spent here....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I need a help regarding my audio amplifier,I have a Bluetooth amplifier which has a output of 5w max, it used two ht6872 chip(mono). A day ago left channel started to sound wired like it's ecoing(low volume output also). So i thought it is probably bcs of amplifier chip got broken. So i ordered another one , This new one came with ns4160 chip which also has same output. And these two chip has 95% same circuit diagram except ns4160 uses 10k resistor in audio input and ht6872 uses 12k. So if i use replace both old chip(ht6872) with new one(ns4160) and use the same 12k resistor instead of 10k, will this effect my sound out put. Please consider me as a newbie in these things, answers are welcome and also please tell they problem with the sound output I'm facing is because of amplifier chip or something else? ( I checked the bt module sound output, it's totally fine in both channels)Thanks in advance.
Question by Sayan_trex
....and I am not in the field. It wont require a high torque and I would say I need a range of 15 cm (approximately) of shaft movement. Something like the picture below(.gif). I wish it would also rotate, but it is fine like that. Anyone please could help me with this...I found it online but they are super expensive because I only saw industrial types for high torque, heavy load use. Do they make it in plastic? or any other cheap material for light use? any suggestions as per substitutes with same action? what name do I look for under?Please help.Very appreciated and a big thank you!!
Question by WG7 | last reply
Hello, friends, I have some questions. I hope you will help me in answering them. Yesterday I finished making my CNC machine table but there are some mistakes in the measurements because the iron bar I used was not 100% straight. This simple diagram shows the place of simple curvature in iron bar. My question is whether can i fix this directly from the cnc softwars (GRBL / LINUXCNC / MACH3 ) or i should make a new table . and thank you for help
Question by abdelkrim30
If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.
Topic by Downunder35m
Hello there :) This is my first forum post so please be gentle ;) Okay, here's the skinny. I am doing a zakk wylde paint job on my stagg strat. I've removed all the paint and sanded it down. But I have some scratches on it (from the sanding) and a few places where I went in too deep with the sandpaper and removed some of the old sanding sealer. So, I need some sanding sealer / grain filler in order to make it a nice smooth surface so I can apply primer to it. Here's the problem. I live in a country where there is ABSOLUTELY NO DEMAND for sanding sealer / grain filler. So there is nothing like that in Bulgaria. And I need to know how I can make my own. (all of the carpenters here sand it and put on some lacquer and it's an awful finish but that's how it is here) Sooo, can any1 please help mee.... :) I really need something that is a good substitute of grain filler / sanding sealer.
Topic by tednet | last reply
I have 5 or 6 of these Slik Stik joysticks for Atari 2600/Commodore 64, but they all inevitably break, which is too bad because they have a nice feel. The main problems are the self-centering "spring" is a rubber washer around the stick that deteriorates, or the metal shaft bends. The bent shaft is easy to fix (just bend it back into shape). But could anyone suggest how to replace the rubber spring? Preferably something that is * cheap, quick, easy * uses readily available parts * won't degrade over time too much * looks OK (not too noticeable a hack) It would be nice to fix these so that they last, I just don't have the time / skills to get into a really complicated project. I think there are parts online but if there is an easy cheaper DIY solution I would prefer that http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p;=15104820
Question by apple-o | last reply
No matter what I put in the "keywords" field, I get the "Please add keywords" error. Same using XP with Chrome, or Win10 and Edge. See attached screen capture.
Topic by DconBlueZ | last reply
Dear Instructables Family,Hope you are well and healthy. My name is Enes and i am living in Istanbul. As you know in my country everything is being enforced by brute force to people. Tor, Wikipedia, Imgur, Pastebin, NordVPN, ProtonVPN, Privateinternetacces, PureVPN, etc. many website and service is blocked. There is no "privacy" in my country. For this reason i am looking for a "full privacy solution" for me and who is living same fate since years. I read many article and project but i couldn't believe they are "full privacy solution". Today i encountered with a "Raspberry Pi VPN server project" and i liked it. I have one (RPI 3B) and want to make a full privacy solution with VPN and Tor (with obfs4 bridges it is working but they are blocking everyday our bridges and we need to find another bridges every day). I created a Tor router with RPI and it is working good (little bit slow but i don't have any choice). But i want to add more security and privacy to this router. For example i have a VPN membership but i can not use it because it is heavily blocked. I want to do something but i couldn't find how can i make. Let me explain.My Onion AP is working for now good and when i connect as a client from a computer, i can access https://check.torproject.org website and everything is OK.My VPN membership supports TCP and UDP OpenVPN. It has TCP and UDP .ovpn files with a lots of country. I installed Open VPN on Raspberry and configured it for auto-connect at boot. It is working, when i reboot Raspberry, it connects automatically. But i have a problem.This VPN firm is heavily blocked and i can't use it. I tried ikev2, L2TP, Obfuscated Servers, Onion Servers, Double Servers and Standalone Servers of this VPN but there is no luck. Then i tried something. I connected Tor Router from computer and tried to connect this VPN firm. I could connect, it worked. Because i connected first Tor router and then VPN.My current schema is this:RPI ---> Internet comes from eth0 ---> Tor ----> Share Tor Connection by wlan0To Do:RPI ---> Internet comes from eth0 ---> First Connection Tor (I don't want to share Tor connection immediately because i need to connect VPN with Tor, if i share immediately by iptables, there is no Tor connection and i can't connect VPN) ---> Then connect VPN ---> Share Tor/VPN internet by wlan0I searched on forums, blogs and websites lots of. OpenVPN is using tun0 interface. I have three (3) questions. I am stucked here.1) How can RPI connect VPN with Tor without forward Tor connection? (Connect VPN with Tor and then share Tor/VPN. 2) When i achieved these steps how can i test Tor/VPN connection from a computer (client)? I mean how can i seperate them? 3) Should i add these commands to iptables-ipv4.nat script?-A POSTROUTING -o tun0 -j MASQUERADE -A FORWARD -i tun0 -o wlan0 -m state --state RELATED,ESTABLISHED -j ACCEPT -A FORWARD -i wlan0 -o tun0 -j ACCEPTIf i achieve this i will be so happy and restful.Could you please help me about these issues?P.S: Sorry for my bad English.Thanks in advance.Best Regards, Enes
Question by ahududu
Can I enter a contest with an instructable that I have already published? If so, how do I do this?Please help!
Question by socialwoodworks | last reply
How would you build iron mans repulsors? I have some already... You could use a transducer for particle displacement, you might be able to send an ion beam through a "tunnel" of a heavier particle, since it can't travel fast in air. I need ideas! Thanks, Laserbeamtoast.
Topic by Laserbeamtoast | last reply