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Topics


I used acrylic paint on a drinking glass. How do I seal it to ensure the paint won't come off when I wash it?

I've read that baking sometimes does it, but I don't want to ruin it. I would also appreciate not poisoning the person I'm giving it to..

Question by jstraut    |  last reply


Sunbeam Foodsaver Vac430 won't seal bags

It's seems to work without any packaging and sealer is hot but as soon as I try to seal a bag it won't seal but pump sounds like it is working

Question by PamandGlynO    |  last reply


Please help Electronic (problem in power bank)

One of a resistance it's blow up in the power bank and i don't have the number of it !! and I could not find any scheme for this Motherboard of power bank and chip that use in this power bank is mt4606 and name of this Motherboard is yd178_b

Topic by maatoubi    |  last reply


What brand and method is used to glue inner tubes?

I have several Instructables that I want to make using inner tubes.  I have used a couple of rubber type glues and sanded the inner tube and it still does not bond well.  I will appreciate any suggestions.  I need a good bond.  Thanks. Sunshiine

Topic by sunshiine    |  last reply


Material to retain heat

Hi everyone,: I thought of something I could make for an Instructable. To keep the idea until I publish, I'll exclude the actual idea. I need a material for this project that will retain heat from a microwave oven for ≥20 to ≥30 minutes, Ideally Id like to keep the Temp around 180 degrees Fahrenheit. What can I use for this? We all know metal cant go in the microwave. Ideas??Thanks,Jari

Question by Jarib123    |  last reply


How to make seed counter with arduino

I want to seed a number that counts the number of seeds. Also, the number of seeds counted, if the number entered by the kaypad was equal, then a relay would be illuminated.

Topic by hoosseina    |  last reply


Is it possible to link Arduino modules with a portable induction stove?

Hi guys! I would like to get an opinion on my first ever project. I would like to link an Arduino module to my portable induction stove. I was hoping that it would be able to do this: ---------- START ---------- 0 min - Start recording sequence Press[Rec] Heating Value: 0 Systems records no change in heating level 1 min - Puts ingredients and increases temperature by 3 levels Press[Increase Temperature]x3 Heating Value: 3 System records an increase in heat by 3 levels upon reaching the 1st min. 7 min - Dish is heated up, let it cool for a bit, decreases temperature by 1 level Press[Decrease Temperature]x1 Heating Value: 2 System records a decrease in heat by 1 level upon reaching the 7th min. 9 min - Dish is cooked. Decrease heating level to 0. Press[Decrease Temperature]x2 Heating Value: 0 System records a decrease in heat by 1 more level upon reaching the 9th min. 9.5 min - Stop recording sequence Press[Stop] Heating Value: 0 System stops recording. Recording is saved and ready for 'reading'. ---------- END ----------- Upon completion of the recording, this set of sequence should be able to upload back to the stove to replicate an identical set of heat change with respect to time. As such, would this project be possible? I would like to modify on the existing parts on my stove that I have. It comes with an interface or some sort that is linked directly to the buttons on the stove. (the buttons available are some commonly used presets and timer settings and an increase and decrease button for the heating level and timer) Any opinions and feedback would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you very much!! - Eddie (Newbie in electrical and programming)

Topic by eddiewoo    |  last reply


Bluetooth blinds

Anyone knows how can I fix this problem?

Question by Denilson1418  


Mystery object

Can anyone identify this object

Topic by martian101    |  last reply


Android Sign in

I cna't sign in to my account on the Android app. Galazy S5.   I am automatically on there as a guest, and if I favorite something, it asks me to sign in, and it will favorite it on my account, but if I do anything else, it signs me bak out again. I can't sign in or stay signed in at all with the Android app. any advice or fixes wouldb e great.

Question by adenda2    |  last reply


External power supply for Arduino project

Hi all, I'm encountering issues while attempting to supply power to 6 servos, attached to an Arduino Due via a sensor shield. The servo model is Hitec HS-8370th, with 6.0 V to 7.4 V as voltage request; I'm trying to power separately the Arduino and the servos (as prompted by the whole onlne community) but I still can't find the proper combination of wiring and components. Arduino needs to be always connected to my laptop for transferring data to Python, so I thought I could simply use USB supply for powering the board; on the other hand, voltage and current requests by servos (joined with common sense) suggest the use of some external battery. What kind of battery should I pick? Moreover, should I put a capacitor (I found this rule of thumb: 100 microF per servo to guarantee current stability; so I bought a 1000 microF capacitor) between the supply and the servos?Thank you in advance

Question by MatRob    |  last reply


What to do if my tv won't turn on

My tv is dead won't turn on one day I try to turn on my TV but nothing so I desconect the power cord for 5 minutes I plug back and it did turn on but the next day happen the same but this time won't turn no more nothing is dead

Question by PeterR26    |  last reply


Insulating home window tint for cheap?

Winter is coming like they say on the wall...For me it means I need to find some option to increase the insulation rating of these old windows.3mm thick glass in not really fully sealing sliding frames is a pain.For my last place I had the permission to put proper foil on the windows at my costs.I guesstimated what I need and just ordered the required amount on a roll.That was a few years back though and now prices exploded.Last time I had to pay around $3 AU per meter, now the same material is quoted at $14.95 AU per meter :(My windows go from floor to ceiling and at these prices covering them would cost me more than a months rent.I am sure insulating window tint is available outside AU as well.Does anyone know any sources with half decent prices and low shipping costs?Found one supplier in the US willing to ship to AU but was quoted over $100US for the shipping of one roll (120m).Means all up I would be looking at still a bit over $600US plus postage and there must be cheaper options :(

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Atx power supply problem pleas help.

I am wanting to turn atx psu into power supply, connected up to check. all wiring is correct added a 10 ohm 5 watt load resistor standby comes on connect green and ground to switch on. fan starts to spin then stops , any ideas anyone

Question by Paphy    |  last reply


What happend to the favorites button.

OK Who's the idiot that's trying to justify there job with the site down grade and yes it is a down grade in my opinion. This site Instuctables is my go to place for how toes , wish I'd thought of that and to share ideas learn new skills. I spent a week trying to work out what was wrong with my computer. I thought there was a setting problem or graphics card problem only to find out that it,s not my end but your end with a format update.Where to start, how bout the endless white back ground. It burns my eyes after a few minutes. the pics are way to big. What happened to the favorites button ? I have over 1100 favorites saved . I save the posts I like for reference to make review build or cook latter. But this option seems to be gone. What I would like to see is some way to save my favorites in there categories like food workshop home outdoors this would help looking for posts easier to find instead of the random order they were saved in.Is there any way to go back to the old format and let your fans choose, like ( stay on old old format or up date to new format ) but with the option to go back to the old if you don,t like it. I know the sits may have some issues that i'm not a where off and you work hard behind the seens to keep everything running smooth. I think you went to far to quick. You may loose fan over this I mite be one of them. This all may sound very harsh and it's meant to I'm try to get my point across that i don't like the new format. I only say all this out of LOVE for this site. Please don't let it fall on deaf ears. thanks JIMWI

Topic by jimwi    |  last reply


Linear magnetmotor - the basics for a beginner

Designing what is said to be impossible can be tricky, so I will try to give you some tips to reach your goal a bit quicker.A lot of people these days try to start with a wheel.Makes sense in one way as the final goal obviously is something that would rotate.However, considering angles in a rotating system is far easier with a usable baseline!We developed the liear motor well after any rotating electric motor.But only because someone already invented it for us.Making it flat was then more or less about finding a need for it first, like the modern highspeed trains on a maglev principle.If you want to make something move then it makes no big difference if you do it in flat or round.Flat however leaves you more options and much easier adjustments.And you will need a lot of the later...IMHO the best size and option for linear is the N0 model railway system.Tracks are only 3CM wide and second hand carriages to salvage the wheels is cheap.Either way, how would you start?We have multiple choices, like single row of magnets or double, maybe even tripple.Same for the actual magnet orientation.Flat, angled, attracting or repulsing...They all work if you understand how they actually work.Not the principle, the magnets ;)You see, a magnet always has two poles and without trickery both poles will be of even strenght, size, angle to each other and so on.Playing on a small and flat track with little resistance allows to use tiny magnets, like 5mm disc ones.If you follow the common concept of two magnet rows either side at a slight angle then you are half way there.People spent a lot of time trying not only to let the cart being attracted by the first magnets but also to let them pass out at the other end.In case you wonder why:Being able to be "sucked" in means you will have some force pulling on your cart from the next stage.Being able to fully pass through and preferably gain speed, means the cart would go from one set of magnets to the next - motion is accomplished.Let me give you my personal favourites for 5mm disc magnets:1. The rows are at an angle of 4-5° like a slim V-shape.2. Same as above by with the orientation changed by 90°The first basically means you have the magnets facing up while in the second you would have them mounted vertically.Both have good and bad sides and I think it is easiest to start with the first option.Here you would have a row of magnets at a slight angle either side of the track.Lets say it is all pointing away from you, then the north row would be left, south row on the right of the track.If you start narrow or wide depends if you want attraction or repulsion forces to work with.Again, it makes no big difference really, just a different way of operation, most seem to prefer repulsion though thinking the forces are greater - this is not true though ;)A very often copied way of mounting the working magnet (s) on the cart is by placing a magnet with south facing down on the left and one with north facing down on the right of the cart.Here you have the big problem of manipulating fields.The forces are quite strong and it seems the obvious choice but should be left for the advanced classes.Let me try to explain:No matter the site of your work magnet it has a very narrow acting field.Means you have a lot of attraction forces going only downwards and not providing any energy to move your system ;)If you orientate a magnet (stack) so north faces to the right and south to the left on either side of the cart you have more options.If the stack or single magnet has the correct length to match the angle of the magnet rows then a funny thing happens.Assume the outer most magnet is at about the same distance from center as the first magnet in the row.Means the inner most and opposing one is further away and the attraction forces gain the upper hand.While moving along though it moves away from the magnet row and whie still gaining force the last magnet in the row stops the cart dead center.This is the common scenario you see on the web when people try and fail.Now if you change the length of your working magnet and position in relation to the magnets in the row you can use the changes to your advantage.You can add slim disc magnets either side of your stack and observe the change in behaviour and where the cart starts to be repelled or gets stuck.In a bad case it starts fast but then stops with a big wobble back and forth.The perfect balance and size means the cart is attracted once it comes close to the magnet rows.There should only be a tiny sopt of very little repulsion right before the cart takes off.Like a hair trigger on a good gun if you know what I mean.It should then see some accelleration till about magnet 5-7 in a row of 14.From there it should level out and roll trough and keep rolling.I assume your first attempts now get you to the point where you cart start really nice, slows down a bit and seems just to miss a tiny extra push to make it out.It it shoots to the last magnet in the rows and then settles back to one or two before the end you are close!We have now two basic ways of manipulating the magnetic fields in our favour, or to "cheat" phsyics.Closing the gap.You will have realised by now that you need at least two stages for your system to be tested properly.Preferably 3 to get a 120° angle in a rotary conversion, but 5 would make sure there is hickups.This also means distance is now something to play with.Remember the pull before get at the same level with the first magnet in the rows?This is the first force we utilise by bringing the second stage at a distance CLOSE to take over the pull.Close because we don't want it to pull the cart out just like that.It would create a big "bump" and in a rotary system massive and unwanted vibrations.Instead we weaken the last magnet in either row.We still want to keep its pull but not so much the holding force that makes our cart go stuck here.Placing a magnet orientated in the same direction as your rows at the end of the row will change how and where the field of the last magnet in the row goes ;)Just to be precise: If the magnet in the row is north up and south down then the added magnet should have the poles 90° to that and in the same direction as the row.Depending how high, how close and with wich pole you place it the fields will change.You want to lower the locking force by at least 50% here - that will be suffient to overcome the holding force and gives the next stage a good chance to take over.It can also help to provide a sacrificial pole below the last magnet in the row.Again if north would be facing up then the lower magnet would also face north up but with a small distance to the upper manget.Ok, what happens here exactly?If I would want to be precise here you would need to read an awful lot, so make it simple...The lower magnet provides a way for the upper magnets south pole to get somewhere else instead of back to its original north pole.It also means there is another north pole "pushing" the north of the upper magnet more flat at the bottom half.This weakens the field strenght.Distance is key.The added magnet at the end does a similar thing.It provides attraction or repulsion forces that affect the field shape of the last magnet in the row.Imagine you have north facing towards the last magnet:You would push the last bit of the field up while also providing a very sharp end instead of a big round shape.The south pole of the last magnet also gets attracted by this added magnet, even more with one magnet below it.With those two added magnets you should be able to fully overcome the binding effect stopping your cart.It won't start and keep going when you let go of it half way down the track though, you need to start with the first magnet or give it a push to overcome the first binding effect.After that momentum takes over.If it really is that simple then where are all the successful videos about it?They are out there, you just need to look quite long for them.Most people still literally think only linear.A magnet has north and south and we can't change it - but we can...With field manipulations as above and shielding we get so much more than what physics currently dictates.Keep in mind that adding shielding under your rows of magnets will also affect how all works together ;)Some people forget this when using ferromagnetic things way too close to their testing area.Distance is also vital to keep in mind when experimenting.The closer two magnets are greater their forces to each other.You can utilise this for example by lowering magnets that seem to be far too strong in your configuration and cause a binding effect ;)And as said, shielding is nice thing for triack too - imagine what would happen with sielding on the sides of your magnet rows... ;)Make a negative into a positive!Extremly strong binding forces at a certain point in your track design can mean you might be able to utilise it instead of trying to waste it.Added magnets can divert the field to quite some extend.Shielding however can also direct them somewhere else - like in the core of a transformer where it all goes in a great circle.Even strips of shielding connecting magnets from one row to the one on the other side of the track can be utilised.Like that you turn two small magnets into one long one with twisted poles at the end.Provides more field strenght too and makes it good for areas with little to no attracting force to the cart.Then there is bigger design...Some people add a center magnet.With one on the cart and one in the center of the track you can create a cancellation field.The rows bind while the center magnet wants to push.If place where there is still enough forward momentum or even acceleration but close enough to the binding magnets it is possible to greatly lower the binding effect.But keep in mind you need to consider the added repulsion or compensated the field so it is most active towards the moving direction and less strong to where the cart is coming from.Advanced manipulations.You can machine magnets, sandpaper, file, grinder, CNC....Imagine you cut a square dice magnet from one corner to the other.Depending on how you have the field orientation you can end up several variations.But if north faced up in your dice then it will still face up in the cut pieces!Cut a pyramid and you end with a big flat south pole and a pointy north pole - and with extreme field strenth in this pointy bit.Similar story with half moon shapes.Imagine you machine a flat block magnet so you have a half moon with its pointy bits facing down and big round bit up.If north was up in the block and you shape the moon correctly then you end with two strong south pole points and a north pole that is strongest right between those points.Why is this so interesting you might wonder?Imagine you already know a magnets pole does not care if gos back to its own opposite or that of a different magnet.Then you also know you can machine and shape magnets to your will.Now imagine that for a change:Precisely machined pyramids that have the top chopped off.All tops in this example facing being the north poles and big bottom south.If you then machine a precise iron core block you make a nice cube.With magnets we need really good glue and a good press to make it happen.But if the center core is of proper size then we end with a block magnet that has a south pole on all sides.Of course to be 100% perfect we would need a zero tolerance gap but good glue and high forces can come quite close.Works as a sphere too but would even have clue where to start to machine the magnets LOL

Topic by Downunder35m  


What are your Favorite Video Games?

I have played a lot of games in my 14 year old life, i have become fans of so many series of games, Ratchet and Clank, Jak and Daxter, Final Fantasy, Kingdom Hearts, Legend of Zelda, Super Mario, etc, etc. I have many favorite games, most of them from the games i just mentioned, Ratchet and Clank (all of them), Jak 1 and 3, Final Fantasy 7 and 13, Crisis Core (fav PSP game), KingdomHearts 1 and 2, Legend of Zelda 1, Ocarina of Time, and so many more games that i will always love. Mos of my favorite games are for the PLAYSTATION 2, if someone asked me wat my favorite game system was, id say "PS2 OF COURSE!" So, what are your favorite games and game systems?

Topic by FFVIIBOY    |  last reply


3 Phase supply

What will be configuration to supply 3 Phase 460 V power into these strings having voltage range as shows in the pics. It can be either star, delta etc configuration. It should be balanced. Answer will be highly appreciated.

Question by tverma95    |  last reply


I need a music festival name, anyone have any ideas?

I need to name a music festival, any ideas would be very helpful.. I like names like Soundwave, Big Day Out, Creamfields etc..

Question by MJTH    |  last reply


Optocoupler 4N33

Hey all, I am building an arduino firework controller and have a question about optocouplers vs relays. I was planning on using 2 9volt batteries to power a nichrome igintor. Instead of using a relay I was planning on using a 4n33 optocouplers to save money. Is this ok? Also what is the diffrence between a 4n33 and 4n35? Thanks in advance!

Question by Mpc1055    |  last reply



Spring thaw drainage dc pump

Every year we get large puddles around our property in low lying areas. Our front sidewalk also dips down at our steps and gets a huge pool. I could shopvac the puddles but the problem is they REFILL slowly but consistently until the grass dries out during the spring thaw. This is a big problem because in the morning these large puddles are ICE and are slippery as anything. Then they thaw during the day and the cycle repeats - for a month or so.So I took an old cheap craftsman tool box and put in a 12v5A battery and a 12v5A pump. The pump uses 3/8" clear hose that you'd see coming from a condensate pump. I put in a 20 mesh filter reservoir thing to keep out small particles from the pump.I ran it and WOW - not only did it work perfectly but even my wife thinks it is "cool". The pump works at about 1 gallon a minute. I purposely did NOT want a high capacity pump. I wanted to move the water slowly and allow it to drain back in. Also if you move water slowly you have way less problem with sucking in leaves, etc. It just quietly does its thing and in about 1/2 hour the puddle is gone. The problem is - overnight the puddle comes back.So I'm going to wire in a dial to slow the rate of flow down.I'd also like to make a water sensor switch. The water has very little salt in it so no electrolytes to make good current. I tried zip tying two wires to the mouth of the intake and wiring them between the battery and pump positive side. No dice.Does anyone know how to make a water activated switch that would work here? If I could get that done I'd have both flow rate and auto on/off. Sweeeeet.

Question by SumG1    |  last reply


Could I stiffen a pvc pipe by putting a foam piece down the center of it. Foam would probably be just bigger than ID. Answered

I plan on making this tripod telescoping so I will have multiple sizes of pvc, and will need a stiff piece of either round foam, or square foam that is pliable enough at the corners to be stuffed into a tube.

Question by elnino2783    |  last reply


Tap water often quite dark and with a strong chemical smell - what to do?

I don't ask for much help but this time I am reaching the end of my knowledge and patience with landlord and water authorities.That's the story so far:When I moved in I did the usual checks and tests but of course did not pay too much attention to what comes out of my taps.After a few weeks I noticed that the drain in bathroom sink seems to rust on the enamel....Easy wipe with some cleaner fixed it but since the actual drain is made of brass I started to wonder what caused the discoloration in the first place.A bit later I had my niece here and while she had a shower I realised that I only get very little hot water from any other tap in the house.Landlord stated that no one would need hot water from two outlets at one and refused to have it checked out - WTF??Paid for plumber myself and the result was not good.The hot water system is connected "open" was his answer after half an hour of messing around.For the lame man it means that whenever there is a pressure difference between hot and cold water it will go through the hot water system.Did not fully get this so he showed me in the laundry.Open the hot water a bit and it runs out fine, open the seperate cold water tap and the hot water stops.This even worked when turning on the cold water in the kitchen.The water is able to go back into the hot water system through the outlet much easier than through the inlet side.And to top it off, the current install basically turns the hot water system into a giant bypass valve :(Paid a few bucks extra so I would get that same explanation in writing for my landlord a few days later.The next and growing problem is the chemical smell.If highly chlorinated then my aquarium test kit would show this and recommend to use a water conditioner when using tap water to top the tank up.And it does not really smell like any chlorinated water I know.Definately a chemical cleaning or sanitation smell though.The plumber could not do more than basic tests so I contacted my water supplier.To my surprise they were happy to send someone out for free.Of course they only cared about their product and all tests were limited to the tap right next to the water meter.Pressure ok.Water clearity ok.Chlorine levels next to zero."Harmful substances test" came back negative as well.It was recommended that I have the plumbing under the house inspected for the water color changes and smells/bad taste.And I had to admit that what came out of the front tap really looked and smelled fine.Work slowed me down for a while and the problem only came back to my mind when I came back from a weekend trip.Needed something to drink quickly so I filled a glass from the tap.It came out like from a rusty bucket.Definately of brownish color and the chemical smell worse then ever.Had to let the water run for about 15 minutes to get something out I dared to drink.Installed a water filter a few days later and though all is good now.Pre-filter, 0.5 micron filter and then a cartridge with activate carbon.Am a single and the unit was meant to be for a busy family.Should have been good for well over 5000 liters of water.I don't really use much in the kitchen for drinking and cooking purposes so I guesstimated I need new filters every 12 to 18 months at worst.They lasted less than 4 weeks before the water came out in drops instead or running....Cutting the fliters open revealed that both pre- and fine filter were fully blocked and brown.Provided all documents and evidence to my landlord but again was told there is no issue and the house is just old :(As a last resort I tried to get under house yesterday to check the pipes itself.Couldn't get all the way in due to all the pipes from the ducted heating system.But I found a bad mess of literally all bad plumbing skills.From the water meter a just finger thick copper pipe goes under the house.This goes into some 1/2" galvanised steel pipe and it look the main way of sealing the connection was some glue or resin around the screw fitting.The same old gal but thinner pipes go close to where the connections for water go.There the "plumber" again used screw on press fittings and glue to connect to thin copper pipes.Hot water is designed the same way, one big gal pipe straight through and then thin copper pipes connected to it.I am not a plumbing expert but I do know that copper and steel won't mix if water is involved.Assuming the hot water system is affected in the same way then this giant battery is eating away the thick gal pipes while supplying me with all the byproducts of this galvanic reaction.The landlord won't budge unless I take legal action and around here you would want to do this as a tennant.Right now I have a long garden hose from the front tap going through my kitchen window :(At least I get usable drinking and cooking water this way, my fish no loger suffer losses after the topping up the water from this hose either...But this can't go on like this.Once the gal pipes start to leak the landlord is required to act but not before that.And chances are these thick pipes will last a few more years before failing :(If i wouldn't know better then I would say at some stage the ducted heating was replaced and to have more room all but the main gal pipes were removed.All copper pipes are the flexible ones and are bend to follow the floor and wooden beams.What are my real life options to fix this water problem?A set of filters ever 4 or 6 weeks sets me back close to 120 bucks each time, hence the garden hose :(What sort of tests can I make to determine what is actually created in my water that causes the smell, taste and discoloration?By the way: a simple rust test available to check for corroded steel pipes only shows traces of rust even if the water is of a slight brownish color.Replacing the piping myself is not just far over my budget but also not allowed for a tenant.And somehow I still wonder if there is more hiding in the walls but could not get close enough to see if the opper pipes actually connect to the taps or just another piece of old steel pipe.Apart from the obvious, what are the dangers of having steel and copper pipes mixed like this for my health?

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


How to connect mic to LM386 Audio Amplifier Module Board 5V-12V for Arduino

HI! I want to make a radio nany ( microphone near the baby , speaker near the mother)  I bought   LM386 Audio Amplifier Module Board for Arduino from ebay (pic attached),  a sound sensor and a speaker.  But I have a problem : When I conecting to the module input some audio like mobile phone or MP3 player it works, if I connecting a microphone (any) nothing.... Maybe somebody have any idea? Will POST the device here when will work :) Thanks! 

Topic by AnnaL3    |  last reply


"Sunken living room" (joists?)

I am wanting to build a "sunken living room/conversation pit" in my (newly made to be) open floor plan living room, dining room, kitchen. From what I have read. These concepts are primarily built in with new construction or in houses with crawl spaces. I, have a full basement. As for the loss of head space in basement. That is fine. I plan on using that area (walled in) as a seasonal storage cloest. (Holiday decor, seasonal clothing) Just curious as to what would be needed other than a support frame for current and unaltered joists and the new "sunken joists"

Question by TylerPatrick    |  last reply


Cannot get recent instructables on all subjects

I used to like looking at what people had done, whatever the topic, but the last couple of weeks it has not been available, the bookmark that used to do it for me just delivers a 404 error. Can this be brought back? I don't want to just browse one subject area.

Topic by stechi    |  last reply


Lexar flash stick/drive

My flash drive just stopped working, i have alot of information of it and the red light just stop flashing. how do i get this to work or get my information off of it?

Question by darleen2009    |  last reply


Fixing a 5 character seven segment display clock

This is a count up race clock that fell due to high winds and has stopped working. It is a springco athletics model 2710A. I have already tried respecting and reconnecting all the non soldered pieces of this display. The main chip on the board is a PIC16F887 with 20 pins. Each display is connected by a single ribbon cable with 20 pins and there are jumpers on each display labeled 1-6(presumably for the character placement in the display). If I cannot find a way to fix the current hardware I would like to replace the control board with an arduino that can do the same thing but I do not know how to wire the display to the arduino nor what model to use. Any suggestions are welcomed.

Question by Tsall1698    |  last reply


Aircon or fridge compressor to solar?

Sometimes I get weird ideas that I can't shake off :)When I was looking into options for a 12 compressor fridge freezer combo I was stunned.You a get a fullsized frrezer for far less!A further check revealed that it is mainly the linear compressor that makes the price plus the usual mark ups.Efficiency and especially start up is far better with thes compressors than out standard rotary and piston drive models.But why would it be so impossible to replace the motor from a standard compressor with a brushless DC one?I focussed on three things for the start:Lubrication, cooling and sealing.There is no such thing like a simple compressor with a piston system that does have some leaking.So apart from the noise the enclosure really needs to be welded and sealed again.Everything moving inside is lubricated by the drive shaft - it acts like a little pump.Same for the cooling of these vital parts.The oil flow exchanges heat through the big metal housing.A replacement motor would need to be suited to run in such a messy enviroment.Of course something to provide a proper oil flow needs to be created too if the drive shaft is replaced.With some basic enineering this might be possible, same for the motor mount and wiring to the outside.But what to do about the full load starting conditions that can happen?Even with no load from the cooling system the motor needs massive torque to get the piston moving.A bypass valve that closes once the motor is at proper speeds might work but hard to implement in a tight space.Any ideas?Did you ever try something that stupid?Could you make it work?What about a rotary compressor with external drive?We use ice blenders that have a magnetic base and the actual connection is made through the magnetic forces alone.A scroll compressor has lots of space without the original motor inside.Plus, a round pipe is easier to work with when it comes to adding or removing things.Small scroll compressors from an airconditioner or small industrial freezer wouldn't have to do much work in a small setup.Best thing is that with a variable speed the cooling power can be adjusted.How feasable would it be to use some polycarbonate end plate and a magnetically coupled drive ?Modern BLDC motors offer great performance and suitable gear systems are readily available.N52 neodymium magnets of the block type provide several kg of force if close enough to each other - should be enough to make a compressor spin...In return it could mean to have a nice freezer or even airconditioner that runs directly on solar power.No massive losses from inverters, no need for huge battery banks either.As long as the sun is out you have free power, once down you can still switch to a power supply for the motor or use battery power.Just imagine you come home after long day of work and the house is already cool.And you did not have to pay a cent to get it cool or wait for hours for it to reach this temperature!We love to add solar panels to our houses in the hope to get a few cents back from our energy providers.The sad reality often is that you might be able to power all your needs during the day but the excess that goes back to the grid often pays next to nothing.But if you could power a lot more things like a compressor directly with the electricity from your panels....Then these kWh would not appear on your usage bill either.Means you neither use what the power provider compensates you for nor is it "wasted" thorugh this bogus compensation.The normal solar setup can then provide you with this little extra money while an additional set powers the motors for your big freezer or little airconditioner - little being relative to what you make of the idea ;)If you really dare than you could even use your bike and legs to power your fridge directly ;)Use your imagination :)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Mouse Mouse is Missing!

Mouse Mouse was last seen on tour with us at Austin's SXSW earlier this week. He made lots of friends at Dorkbot on Saturday, but someone walked off with him while we were setting up at Sunday's PopSci party! Did he go on walkabout, join a punk band, or leave with a cute female Mouse Mouse? We hope so, but suspect he was simply abducted and can't contact us for help. If you have any information, please let us know! No kidding, I only made one1 and would really like to have him back. Drop me a note if you've got any news on his whereabouts. We'll take him back, no questions asked.1Yes, I can and will make another, but it's my art project, and therefore unique. (You may know how to make more children, but still want to keep the ones you've made.)

Topic by canida    |  last reply


How do old-fashioned hand-crank telephones work? Answered

I was wondering how old fashioned hand crank phones work, in particular: Does the cranking provide power to the phone, or does it just ring the bell on the other end? I always thought that the cranking rang the bell on the other end of the line, and that the phone itself used a transformer to amplify the input from the microphone, without using power? Also, how do duplex coils keep the user from hearing their own voice through the speaker? Thanks!

Question by mad magoo    |  last reply


My profile settings doesn't open Answered

I've been trying to open settings option under my instructables profile but i'm unable to do so. as soon as i click on settings, it riverts back to the activity page. same happens with drafts, favorites, discussions also.is there a problem with the website?

Question by Suraj Bhawal    |  last reply


Making ear buds fit super cheaply

Hi, I'm dealing with dollar store ear buds that (surprise) fall out easily. I would like to modify this but I can't spend much. I don't have access to a workshop, most tools, or sugru.

Topic by Robert1234567    |  last reply


"Sonic" drilling or cutting

If we look up sonic drills today we usually get some fancy machines driving pipes in the ground, preferably softer ground.But the term includes all types of machines that use sonic vibrations to advance through a media.With the ancient and claimed to have never existed technologies in mind I did some digging...In the food industry vibrating knifes are quite common, same for "air knifes" on softer food.Even in the meat industry they find more and more uses now.Ultrasonic cutting or welding is the same thing and included in "sonic".Same for some experimental sub sonic drilling methods currently being tested.The general idea might be as old as using vibrating equippment to compact stuff, like concrete, bricks and so on.What you can compact by vibration you can also make "fluid" by vibration.Industrial feeder systems utilise this to the extreme by even making light and fine particles like flour move like water without causing any dusting.What all the techniques have in common that a suitable tool or tool head is used and that it is attempted to use the most suitable vibration frequency for the job.Anyone operating an ultrasonic welder knows the pain of finetuning for a new electrode or just new part to be welded.What does that tell us now that makes the understanding easier?Take a bottle of ketchup, preferably one that is still quite full.Turn it upside down and noothing comes out.Shake it a bit and you are either lucky or drowned in red.But hold it at an angle and start tapping it and the red sauce flows out easily.What it true for most newtonian fluids is in some way also true for non-newtonian fluids.Ever mixed corn starch and water to make these funny experiments with it?Hit it hard and it reacts really hard and is not sticky at all.Leave your hand resting on it and in sinks in and sticks to it.Stirring it very slowly is easy, go faster and you get stuck.You can do similar things with by using an external source for vibrations.For example a vibration speaker mounted to a smal cup of the goo.If you place sand on a sloped piece of plastic or sheet metal then at a low angle it will pile up easy and stay.Start vibrating the plate and the sand will start to flow off.Works fine with a vibration source mounted to a piece of steel bar or rod and a bucket of sand too.Trying to press it into the sand requires a lot of force, especially once you are a bit deeper.Let it vibrate properly and it slides rights down.If we can do the simple stuff as well as really complicated stuff in the industry then what about other materials?So far we use vibrations to make things move out of the way, compact things, transport them or to heat them up for welding plus some cutting applications.Considering the variety one might wonder why no one tries it for "difficult" materials.Machined surface can be found throughout ancient history.Finding "machined things" were vibrations was clearly used is a bit harder.The great walls are not a perfect example here as the views differ quite a bit on how they could have been created.But if we leave things melting them or a secret concret like recipe for creating for example granite then vibrations start to make some sense.You find some interesting videos on youtube where people use speakers, wires and rocks to confirm you can actually "machine" them by vibrations.Especially granite has some quite musical properties, big boulders as well as smaller ones produce destinct sounds when you hit them hard.Tests and measurements were made on granite and other hard rocks to check how fast sound travels in them , how it is refeclted and where the sound comes out or affects the surface the most.Lets just say every sample gave different results.Shape, density and dimensions affect not just the resonant frequency but also where and how the sound travels in the rock.What if??We can use a simple speaker, a plate and some rice to see how patterns form under various frequencies.Works with sand or other granules as well.The interesting patterns are the so called harmoncis.Here we see clear and destinct patters, sometimes with extremely fine lines and areas of softly vibrating granules.Some people say these harmonic frequencies have all special meanings and uses.We mainly used them to avoid problems.Imagine your new TV would not have a housing tested to be stable with all frequencies the speakers can produce.All of a sudden your back of the TV might start to rattle ;)Same for car engines.Harmonic vibrations are eliminated wherever possible.Otherwise they could multiply and affect other things in the engine or around it.Simply put it means we have various options to detect and measure vibrations on a surface or in a system.Back in the day every half decent backup generator had a mechanical indicator for the frequency of the supplied electricity.A set of tiny forks with the desired on painted red and several on either side of it.These forks were designed to get into harmonic and therfor quite intense vibrations at their set frequency.If the one for 50Hz looked blurry then all was good ;)The same principle god be applied on a big boulder of granite.Place the "vibration meter" at the desired spot and start moving around the vibration source on the surface until you find a spot that causes maximum response on the meter.Best thing here is that if you then place that surface area onto another peice of fixed in place granite both pieces will start to loose substance if vibrations are applied.The fine sediment forming is then usable as an indicator where to move the vibration source to continue once the effect literally wears off.Is it feasable?Well, if we trust mainstream science then the answer is no.A huge amount of vibration energy would be required for such a hard material, despite ancient proof that says otherwise.Semi industrial test also seemed to confirm the theory as only with very high amplitudes (loudness) and while automatically adjusting for the resonant frequency changes a measurable amount of material was removed.I struggle a bit with that as for the testing tool heads made from hardened steel or carbide were used.And that with little or no regards on how the head and tool itself affects the output.I mean in terms of having the max possible movement happening right t the tool contact surface!There is a huge difference between applying a vibration to a tool and using a system, tool and tool head DESIGNED to work at the desired frequency!Otherwise we wouldn't need a computer to design and test a horn for welding purposes or shade a knife spefically so that the vibration go along the right axis and in the right direction.You not break a hard thing with a very soft thing unless it travels fast enough to become harder as the target!This complicated explanation basically just confirms that if you hit water at a too high speed then it will just break you into pieces instead of offering a soft splashPlease do not jump of bridges or such to confirm this yourself!!If that is really true and science says it is, then how about the other way around?Works fine too, or we wouldn't have pressure washers or water cutters.Now for the part where I hope some really smart people leave helpful comments:If we can cut steel with just a stream of water, then I ask:Isn't for example copper much harder than water?Steel is much harder than copper but water cuts through it.The answer here it simple or complicated, depending on how you want to expain how it works.Comes down to speed and pressure plus the right nozzle shape to prevent a beam expansion.But then water is indeed "harder than steel".Questions:Lets say we would use a copper pipe that in lenght, thickness, hardness and diameter is optimised to transmit a frequency so the pipe end sees the max vibration like a feed horn for ultrasonic welding.Not to hard to calculate these days :)Now imagine said "main frequency" would be optimised for the pipe but also be a harmonic frequency of the rock to be worked on.The pipe end would deform quickly, abrasion does the rest and it fails before even making a decent sratch that is not copper metal on granite.No matter how hard we press nothing good enough will ever happen.BUT: If we would add more hormainc frequencies to feed our pipe we can multiply the amplitude quite easy!Just try with a sound generator from your app store, needs 2 or more channels to be usable.Pick for example 400hZ on one and 800Hz on another, then finetune around these number to hear how the tone changes ;)My theory goes like this:If all "working frequencies" would just harmonics of the resonant frequency of the granite, then they can be tuned so the effect on the pipe end is minimised.The overlaying frequencies however should result in the same effect a water cutter has: The pipe becomes ultra hard.The better the match and the more you have to get it right the harder the pipe will be.Adding now a "drilling frequency" or multiple could be used to drive these harmonics slightly out of phase.Like with the sound generator on your phone we end up with a pulsating sound, or vibration.While the pipe still vibrates at the same "hardening" mix the drilling frequency creates a peak like a jackhammer.Try it by using the heaphone output on a small speaker and placing some light and tiny things into the cone.The will violently jump around during these pulsing tones.For a drilling system the output can be mechanically maximised by utilising a pitchfork design.A head holds the vibration speakers and the tynes are tuned good enough to the frequency of the speakers.Always two would have to operate in sync though as otherwise the pitchfork movement that transfers the sound down the center bar won't work.This head could then be desgined to act as a holder for a quick change of work out pipes that are no longer long enough for tuning.I guesstimate that a well tuned design would result in a copper pipe being able to drill at least 10 to 15cm into solid granite before it wears off too much.And we are talking here about just a few mm to get the thing out of tune!But would dare to desing such a thing just to confirm a theory that no one ever really dared to test? ;)And if friction welding works as good as ultrasonic welding, then what would happen if we try this with the right frequencies and vibrations instead of wasting tons of energy?

Topic by Downunder35m  


Ultra sonic flow meters

We have 4 independent ultra sonic flow meters and they give us ghost readings at random times. We are sure it’s not emi from an outside source. It’s a frequency signal that our flow computer picks up without product ever running through the pipe system. It only happened at random times like 3 or 4 weeks apart. And are happening more often. Does anyone know best way to troubleshoot.

Question by Kirbyotw    |  last reply


Can't Login

I can't login.  Yes I'm sure my username and password are right, my browser was even catching them. If I'm viewing an instructable and click Add Comment, the login box pops up, I enter valid login details, and it just goes back to the instructable page without my being logged in.  If I try to do the same again, the cycle keeps repeating. I don't feel there's anything I need to do, that the site has a problem.  I wanted to just notify site staff but when I click the contact link at the bottom of a page it takes me to the forum, which is yet another site bug... I don't want a forum when I click a contact link, I don't want help, I want to CONTACT site staff so they can fix the site problem.

Topic by ac-dc    |  last reply


Sharp Ir sensor 4cm to 30cm

Could anyone explain the code given in your example specifically the calculations.volts = analogRead(IR)*0.0048828125; // (5/1024) int distance = 13*pow(volts,-1);

Question by rivendeldc  


Help me with nrf24l01 please

Do someone know how to make a wireless headset walkie talkie with nrf24l01 ? or anyone here have done this before? what are the things i need and things to do? teach me please I really want to make two (2) Wireless Headset Walkie talkies .any suggestion would be appreciated

Question by glennmarksovan    |  last reply


Shop Organization Tips and Practices from 03/17/2019

Link does not work

Question by GLBTS    |  last reply


How do you melt rubber? Answered

I am trying to make my own rubber-soled shoes. Is there a good rubber I can melt at home for this? It needs to be relatively hard. Also, what kind of mold would I need to use & how would I make that? If I am successful, I will certainly make an instructable. This is the only part I need help with. Thanks.

Question by Wolf Seril    |  last reply


TFT dashboard retrofit

Hello all please can you help me anyoneI want retrofit adapter can bus TFT dashboard for range RoverI want apgrade instrument culstaer 2007 to2014thank you

Question by labeed    |  last reply


Backup battery convert 3.6v nicad to 3.7v li-ion

Have a slot machine MPU backup battery 3.6v nicad. Would like to replace w/ 3.7v Li-ion NON-RECHARGEABLE and NOT have the battery charge. Was thinking I might be able to insert a diode in line with the battery to prevent the circuit from charging. Am I on the right track?Thank you for your timeJim B.

Question by digitaltripper    |  last reply


Connection via mobile

Hi guys How to connect orange pi 1with android mobile via vnc app

Question by Mr Qatanani  


Standing desk

Check out the new standing desk that I built yesterday. My previous standing desk was working just fine, it just wasn't in the kitchen. Kitchen gravity has been pulling me out of the spare bedroom/office and into the kitchen, where everyone else hangs out. Working on my laptop at the kitchen table was killing my wrists, so I mounted a proper setup to the wall. The LCD is held to the wall with an Ergotron Lx Wall Mount, and the Kensington 60044 Keyboard tray (also seen in my Ergonomic Workstation ), is mounted to a small shelf built from triangular brackets, 2x4's, and a plywood top surface.It seems to be working pretty well, and the kitchen now appears to a have "helm."I've got an Instructable in progress on the keyboard shown in the pictures, so look for that soon.EDIT:How to make a vertical, ergonomic tie-fighter keyboard is done!See the on-the-go version of this standing desk here in Handy Tricks Six.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


How to get In-ear headphones from slipping out.? Answered

I have a pair of Skullcandy headphones. They used to stay in my ears when pulled on, and just when wearing them. Now they always fall out. When I'm sitting or standing up, All the time. When I Absolutely needed to use them I would wear some kind of stretchy, over the ears hat. But I don't like wearing the hats all the time. Is there a way I can fix this without getting some new tips?

Question by unominame    |  last reply


Is there any way to glue plastic to fabric?

I want to glue a plastic ziplock bag to cotton/spandex fabric, is there a particular glue that will do the job or any other method anyone can suggest?

Question by nigelwclifford    |  last reply


How to drop 9 volts to 3 volts at 32 ma

Hello, I am a new B here. I would like to use a 9 volt battery to power lights for my RC car. The led lights operate at 3 volts 32 ma. What size resistor will I need to make the voltage drop. Will this also control the current so I do burn up the lights. The lights are somewhat expensive so would like to get it right the first time. Thanks for anyone's help.papadewey221

Question by papadewey221    |  last reply


Would someone help me learning how to project a Handheld controller PCB diagram

Well, I am a beginner in electronics, all I know is the basics, but I want to go further. I decided to learn it after looking for some Chinese emulation handheld (and after someone stole my PSP, as well lol), and even thought functionally they are interesting, the money I'd pay wouldn't worth for something that looks like a cheap PSP or something in the shadow of a Nintendo (and that annoying clicky bottoms...). I know they're already in the shadows of many things as long as they are emulators, but everything has limits haha. Wasn't only because of the design, even though I think this is important (well, I am a desiner, or something close, that's why) but after landing in a technology site (I don't know how, but thanks God), I found out I could make my own portable emulator, cheaper, with an originaler design, and more important, way more powerful, even not being into electronics. I got into this, ordered all the components I need (I am just waiting that half eternity you gotta wait when order anything from China), but I didn't stop researching and getting more interested in this stuff. Now, all I want is to make the project as refined as I could. I could pay somebody to make the projects, but I wouldn't be learning with that, so better do it in my favourite way, the punk way, doing it myself, also because I learn better this way, with a purpose. All I want is to learn how to make my own circuit boards, cause in a future, I want to make its own motherboard, but let's do it a step by time. For now, I wanted to learn how to project a PCB for the controller, and if you guys could help me with that it'd be great, not only for my project, but for my learning as well. The case is already done, as I said, I'm just waiting stuff to arrive. I'll show you it's gonna look like. Btw, any kind of help is welcome! Thanks by now, and sorry for all the small talk until my point lol :D

Question by mambstardust    |  last reply


Arduino autonomous and remote controlled car

Hello everyone,I'm currently trying to design a small control two wheel robot (similar to an ollie by sphero) that is capable to be moved remotely or can be coded to follow a set of instructions if it is not being controled by the user. I heard from many of my colleges arduinos are the best way to go but I have no idea where to start, any feedback or advice would be helpful.

Topic by donayre21