Hello!I am trying to create a USB, 3 button switch. I can't find any helpful info out there. Can someone please help me build the circuit? The photo is what I want it to look similar to.
Question by mlk63457 | last reply
I'm remodeling my house and fell in love with the "twirly bed" concept. i have a limited space, and this contraption seems perfect for my situation. how the eef do i make this without spending upwards of 3000 bucks? i now it's possible, lead the way. and thank you. when you have one too many, you can crash on it.
Question by WingspaN | last reply
Like some one die in a dream and cried and then woke and they were crying in real life.
Question by build52 | last reply
I have a cheap sky viper i got at walmart it has wifi and connects to my phone for fpv but im kinda in the mood to tear it apart and see if i can do something different to it. I was wondering if there was any way that I could change the wifi on the drone to run through my wifi at my house and connect through that. I have been looking but cant find anything on this. im sorry if this is in the wrong place let me know and ill move it
Question by Mainemade82
I’ve come up with a magazine system based on the TR-18’s turret system. I’m trying to incorporate it into a TR-8 2018 body currently. It needs to hold the shells in while still letting the ammunition stick out the front. I’m also trying to avoid cut/broken parts unless absolutely necessary. Here are two possible shell designs I’ve come up with so far:
Topic by PotatoDemon
I am a hobbyist trying to add a striking feature to an existing clock.My clock is a quartz movement with a set of contacts that close briefly every time the hour hand passes the 12 position. This pulse is used to trigger a solenoid which when energised causes a plunger to strike a bar and produce a resonant bell sound. I include the cct. I am currently using. The 6v. battery powers the 10 ohm solenoid coil & U2 the LD1117 IC which provides the 1.5v needed by the quartz movement. My project is to change the hourly strike from a single stroke to one which strikes the hour the correct number of times to indicate the time, the same as a mechanical striking clock does - 1 stroke at one oclock - 2 strokes at 2 oclock etc.continuing to 12 and then beginning again at 1 oclock. Unfortunately my electronic ability does not extend to using counters and timer ccts so I am looking for help with my project. I would greatly appreciate any help with the circuitry needed to allow me to complete this project. TIA, RMHC.
Topic by RMHC
I wish to build a small 1080p monitor, and the smallest regular LCD display I could find was around 10" and not HD, so I've been looking at mobile displays. I don't know much on the subject, but I am willing to learn and work to get what I want. A mobile display that suits my needs is the HTC One display, it has a resolution of 1920x1080 and is not OLED (I may wish to replace the backlighting). It is available on spare part sites, and on eBay (though with the touchscreen digitizer included): http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ASSEMBLY-LCD-display-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-For-HTC-One-X-S720E-G23-/231095967913?pt=US_Cell_Phone_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash;=item35ce64a0a9 http://www.fonefunshop.co.uk/cable_picker/97516_HTC_One_X_LCD.html Would I be able to control this display with a regular LCD controller, such as this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/121059321784?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT With full HDMI/DVI and function support? Maybe I'm mistaken, but as long as the voltages match... Right? Unfortunately, the display description on these websites is completely lacking in details, so it's been difficult to get any tech specs. I've been googling this a lot, but with few results. It seems a problem could be the interface: there aren't enough pins on the HTC One display (of course, it doesn't HAVE to be this particular display, it just has to be small, cheap and HD). I managed to find something about MIPI interfaces, could this be a problem if it's proprietary? Are there adapters? And would I need an inverter if this setup even works? Thank you in advance.
Question by build_0 | last reply
What kind of lense do I need to see infrared with my eyes? I want to take pictures and see inrared with my eyes through a lense or filter of some sort. What kind of filter do you recomend? Can I see IR with a IR filter? (def. of a filter: blocks certain wavelenghts of light). Thanks
Question by QuickTime | last reply
Basic Idea: When used to help slow(not primary brakes) a strong coil or spring is tightened to aid slowing. When maximum amount of tightness is reached the coil disengages somehow, The coil could be kept in the tight state until released for use for a burst of propulsion through reverse gears . Totally non-electric and light. It would be ideal for stop-and -go bike commuters , up and down hilly areas ,etc. Same idea could used for smaller cars, motorcycles,etc. Has this been used before ? Feasible ? Any critiquing of the concept is welcomed .
Question by BtheBike | last reply
I'm looking for little motors that are about 15 - 20 rpm and that will run on 3.3v to 12v (5v would be great since I want to use usb for power). I've no idea where to start looking. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.
Question by aliasjanedoe | last reply
I really like my Inventor, it is reliable and a strong work horse.What I really hate(ed) though is the thing freezing up when you think you can quickly print out a part you just broke.The symptoms are the same throughout the Flashforge range, so let me sum it up quickly to get on the same page here.The printer worked fine for a while.You turned it on one day and the logo is not fully displayed, about the top 20-25% are blank and the printer get stuck on boot.In some cases waiting for 10 to 15 minutes makes the printer finnish the boot but it will only work like this a few times.Once the printer is seemingly dead there is, or better was, only the official Flashforge solution to make it work again.Take the machine apart and the SD card out, replace the firmware files on it after formatting the card on your computer.I did the official solution a few times and it works just fine, even if you just delete the files on the SD.However, there is a better option I found during the last few weeks of heavy printing.Ever noticed how the printer keeps all your printed files stored on the SD?A nice way of handling if you quickly need to print another part.Totally useless though as the last part you printed is always the last part in the ever growing list of files to go through on this tiny screen.Long filenames are bad, having more than about 50 .gx files on the internal SD is bad as well.Combined they cause our freezing problem and the printer getting stuck on bootup.I have not done a count but the amount of files until it happens seems to be quite consistently.Really complex models seems to make the problem worse, especially when trying to scroll through the listed files on the touchscreen.I now did about 4 complete rounds of replicating this problm in all variations I can think of.From this I came up with quite simple solution that seems to be nagging a lot of people out there.The solution to prevent your Flashforge 3D printer from freezing up:Only keep on the internal SD what you know you might have to print again in the next few days.Manually delete all other .gx files whenever you have the time to spare.Try not to have any more than about 20 print files left on the SD at any given time.I stuck to this and have now printed about 300 parts without any freezing up during boot.Hardware solution if keeping the amount of print files on the internal SD low is not an option:Be it in a school or makers community, sometimes you just can't keep the amount of print files ending up on the SD in control.And forgetting to manually delete the files on day results in a stuck machine on another day.To avoid taking half of the machine apart while putting iton the back you can mess with the SD card reader on the mainboard during the next firmware replacment and formatting on the computer.SD card extenders are available online.Usually just a ribbon cable with a SD card connector on one end and a "reader" on the other.As a last resort you can get one of these cables and install them so the reader part comes out at the bottom of the housing.Requires making a suitable slot for it in the cover plate though.I did this for a while and it was quite convient but IMHO not a long term solution.I contacted the Flashforge support with my findings and hope one day they will be able to address the issue in a firmware update to solve it for good.Until then try the above to keep going ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Wondering what the best solution for a long-range lidar setup would be using Arduino. I see that there was a similar question about 10 years ago, but seeing as the sensors/meters available have greatly improved since then, i was hoping to get some insight from people with a good deal more understanding of the issue.(NOTE: Apologies for how long this is, but figure i would try to save anyone who is kind enough to answer this, the time of having to ask what the specs are...)Description:Can assume clear day, so i would assume something using higher frequency light would be more ideal, but again open to whatever suggestions make sense.Range is more like that of a boat radar, so upwards of 1km would be great, but anything above 100m would probably work. And would need it to have enough detail to say separate out leaves from tree trunk for anything under say 40m, and past that it can get less accurate if that helps make it easier to setup. 180-360 degrees measurement. If i have to build my own servo to rotate a range finder that has the distance/accuracy that isn't likely a problem.Ideal would mountable on a moving car, similar in many ways to existing lidar for vehicles. (I am not sure if those are sold on the market, and could be used and hooked up to a pc, etc to record the data already? If so that might be the answer i want, depending on price.)Student budget, so cheaper is preferred. Willing to do some programming, etc to get it work with lower cost.I need to send the output back to a pc/tablet/phone to record the data which will be used for a vfx project I am working on. And i will likely need a reading every second or less, ideally, 24 or 30 frames per second would be awesome. I can do the coding if all i am getting is a bunch of distances/angles/etc to store it, just as long as the sensor can scan fast enough for instance if i have to attach it to a servo, can i spin it fast enough to get that kind of data coming down the pipe to the Arduino or pc, etc.That's pretty much the requirements. Curious what the large brains out there will say as they smack me down for being naive, which i have no doubt this project is....My general feeling is that going with camera distance seems both not accurate enough at that distance without using a super expensive set of cameras, and also would require a good deal of software to get working, say if you are comparing to camera feeds, in realtime etc. I don't imagine I could get whatever Elon has in his Tesla's for instance, wonder how good their distance calculations are. So it seems to me this is likely a case for some electromagnetic emitter/sensor and possible using amplitude modulation, but I am not even sure there are sensors out there that can detect such accuracy. I am curious if radar is not able to get the detail I was hoping for, and that is why lidar systems are used for grabbing details for movie sets etc, though doesn't radar go down to 1mm length waves? Not sure what freq say a boat radar uses? I guess, also, I want to avoid sending any waves out that I am not suppose to, not even sure what the requirements/restrictions are around that? I imagine lidar is fine because it is just light, so that is all ok, but radar might be I guess an issue anyway if you are sending it out past 100m for instance? I know boats do it, but not sure what freq, and whether it is ok to drive around with it on a car for instance? I don't want to break any laws that way either, so yea, guess i will have to look that up. I might be way over my head, but figure worst I can do it be told that. I am new to this subject, but I do have a degree in math so coding/math doesn't scare me, but the rest, Arduino, etc I have only really had a bit of experience helping code ardruino's for my friends projects, but never setup one from scratch. Thanks for any help!
Question by Elliot7777 | last reply
I have between a grand and two grand to buy a 3D Printer. What is the best 3D printer with preferably an enclosed body and definitely a larger than 12 in by 12 in by 12 in build area. It must not be resin and the cheaper the better with the best reviews the better
Question by PhatRATTY | last reply
I've gotten my hands on an Arduino Uno R3, and I've learned how to use some basic things (Digital pins, a few sensors) but I don't know where to go next. Tutorials online are scattered pieces at different levels, so I don't know how to follow them. Does anybody know where I can find a place where I can start at the beginning and progress into harder projects slowly? Someday I'd like to be one of the people building amazing things with this board :DThanks!
Question by zakbobdop | last reply
I have a radiator leak that I want to repair instead of replacing the whole radiator. I tried a couple of 2 parts epoxy glues and it won't hold for long. I think the heat just makes it weak. They are small leaks(2) on top of the plastic area. I was thinking maybe trying some fiberglass resin and cloth since I have some leftover from my fibeglass speaker box I've done a while back but not sure if I should go that way. Anyone knows of another way? Anyone had this problem and got a fix? or if there's a website where I can get the top piece to replace it myself please post a link. It's a 2000 dodge neon. Thanks.
Question by PitStoP | last reply
It turns on, heats up for about 1 to 10 minutes, then click, turns off. What can cause this? I usually unscrew the light bulb so it does NOT come on during the cycle, I like to sit in the dark and sweat! When I screw lightbulb to turn on, unit immediately clicks off. I have been having some panel problems where the time keypad or the temperature keypad will not respond as well.
Question by WendyR63 | last reply
Question by Suhas megharaj | last reply
I am living in a condo (apartment Building, 2nd Floor). For the last 5 days my house smells of chemicals like paint or something very close to the paint . In the living room we have small office area with computer and printer where smells very strong. Also this smell is in the kitchen, in the bedroom, all over the apartment. I am the only one that can smell it. It is not paint. The refrigerator works ok, the stove is electric and the furnace is turned off. The Consumers checked for gas, but there was non. Who should I call in order to come and detect where this smell is coming from?
Topic by Aladana | last reply
Hi,I have just bought a charger for my motorcycle.it was advertised as having a trickle charge function; which I believe is good for battery longevity ( and I only use the bike once or twice a week).However, it does not have a trickle charge function but it does have a pulse function ( which it recommends for motorcycle batteries as the normal ampage output is too high for small batteries).Thiis is meant to be gentle and does not create the bubbles caused by electrolysis, but is it worse or better for the battery than a trickle charger ?Thanks
Topic by FriendOfHumanity | last reply
"Hi, makers! As part of student project "AWR²" (Autonomous Weed Removal Rover), we would like to design a "robot vegetable garden" capable of maintaining an urban garden; this project will then be made available in open source. This robot will be able to move autonomously in the vegetable garden, to map its territory (finding the best path through vegetation and uneven terrain) and to detect weeds (thanks to its camera allowing image analysis by neural network and for the purpose of a weed control option). We would therefore need your opinion! If you ever own a vegetable garden, do you think such a robot would be useful/relevant in your garden? If you don't have a vegetable garden, would this project encourage you to have one? And finally, since this project will be available in open source, would you be willing to put 2000 euros (component price) to build this robot yourself?Thank you in advance for your answers!Signed all the team of AWR²“
Topic by ld160183
Attached is a diagram of basically what I'm thinking. The goal is to have multiple relay switches in a point to multi-point setup with a controller as the primary link back. The relays would have lights attached to them. So basically I want to be able to connect usb into the main controller and send a signal to the relays for example send a 1 code relay number 5, so the switch closes and the light turns on and set the time for 3 seconds then send a 0 code to shut it off. I am brand new to these types of products so my question is... based on this information. Where would I start? Are there particular modules that i will want to use? Are there any sites where I can purchase the modules already configured for what i want? I tried googling the idea but I'm not sure what exactly to search up. Ive tried things like. Point to multi point relay network. My goal is to be able to plug any kind of light into the relays like simple two prong led lights or an led light strip behind each of the relay switches, and connect to the main control board and use serial or ssh or some interface to send a command to the relay to turn the light on. Eventually I would like to write a script to automate the process of send the command to turn the light on. Then randomize it, such as, relay 2 on for 3 seconds/off, relay 6 on for 3 seconds/off, etc. Additionally, aside from the basics that I need to get started on the right track, How is power controlled? Does the relay have an onboard battery or do i need to put into the loop a battery that when the loop closes the light turns on? Any help with pointing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated. I am just not sure where to begin and I don't think my search parameters have been accurate enough to help me find any similar type projects to help guide me.
Topic by TheKuyaJames
Okay so the first question is, could I charge an Electric Scooter while it's in use. The Scooter in question is a Bullet XCT 85, which from what I can tell is a Xiaomi M365/Pro Knock off.While I have it plugged in and charging to the wall, I can still turn it on and use the throttle, whether it's still charging (as the wall charger would indicate) or the scooter has safe guards to stop the charging from happening while it's powered on, I got no clue.Second part of the question is, the scooter supposedly (I haven't and don't want open it up to check) has a 36V 7.8Ah Battery. So with that info would I thearetically be able to put together a battery of also 36V and different Amps to either 1. Charge the scooter on the go or 2. Have a battery back up, for when I haven't got access to a wall charging option.As for the extra battery, the current idea for cost vs. capacity is get 3x 12V 9.8Ah Li-ion Batteries in series to make a single 36V battery, with the right plug on the end to plug into the scooter. And possibly some sort of battery meter to be able to read the battery level.Side Note - I don't have any electrical knowledege, besides the basics. But I'm a quick learner.
Question by NicolasR46
Was looking to see if anyone has an idea how to make one of these electro pounce machines. At $300 new I'd much rather make one but don't know where to start. Any electrical peep out there have an idea, please let me know. Thanks here's a reference of what the machine is - you tube has videos of it in action. http://www.fmsneon.com/electro-pounce.html
Topic by jae1 | last reply
I have a audio amp board with no bluetooth so i want to add a bluetooth audio amp board to it all on 24vDC power supply but one board just blips on and off. Thus making a popping sound. Ive tested on separate power sources and seeems fine. Am I wiring wrong?
Question by Msala87 | last reply
You suffer for days after one of these tiny vampires got you?The itching drives you mad?And unlike some people your bites always get worse from day two onwards?If so, then you might have the same problem as I have...No matter how much hate and disgust you show, these mozzies just love you.And as this wouldn't be bad enough your body totally overreacts every time.A bite for me meant numbing cremes or sprays, anti-histamines and if doubt putting a heavy duty bandaid over it so if I forget the scratching won't do too much harm.Despite all this 5 to 6 days until the itch, swelling and irritation stop...A few weeks ago while fishing I had a nice chat with a man way into his 80's already.He laughed when I started to spray all uncovered parts of my body with tropical strenght insect repellent.Told him my reasons and then he said I should try something he used during his army times for bites of unknown critters.In the jungle they often relied on local guides and they provided a solution that seems to be totally forgotten these day - even I did not know it LOLTheory behind it...If you know these "insect bite clicker" then you already know how it is put into comercial use - without ringing much relief.Whenever something bad enters the body there is a reaction to fight it off or dispose of it.Problem with insect bites, be it mozzies or sand flies, is that all this bad stuff is concentrated in a very tiny area.And being mostly skin tissue makes it hard to deal with it.By applying pressure and massage like motion to the bite the contaminent are spread through the tissue.If you leave a small dint with little to no color left after 2 or so minutes you doing it good.Try to use something hard here, like a spoon, bottle cap, end of a screwdriver - whatever is slightly rounded and solid.You will notice that the itch gets quite bad once the bloodflow starts again and within minutes the bite area will swell up and form a more or less evenly formed hump.The hump will be pale in color while around it the skin is slightly red from the added bloodflow.Don't scratch! Just wait until a nice hump has formed where you can clearly make out the rim.Now use the same pressure method as before and spread out the hump while constaly pushing it in and "wobbling" around to massage the area a bit.Do this as before for about 2 minutes and if you still see a destinct difference between bite aea and surrounding tissue continue for a bit longer.Should not take more than 5 minutes to have the area nice and even again.Wait again and check for new singns of swelling up - there should not be any.If there is simply repeat one last time.The remaining itch will go away within about an hour instead of days and there won't be any severe after effects from day 2 onwards either anymore.It can help to use heat as well.For example by heating up the spoon in some hot water before using it.But keep the heat at a level you can tolerate!!! Do not heat the spoon to the point where you feel pain from the heat.Try it out and report back! :)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Ok, here's one I thought I'd throw open to the masses.... I'm knocking off the last of a fully automated self-sufficient watering system that runs completely off grey/rainwater. However, the coke can guttering is not working in this position as it has previously :( I was thinking of using PVC piping, cut lengthwise for guttering. However, I'm working out the logistics of cutting it. It can't be cut directly in half - this would be too shallow to catch the runoff from the chicken shed. and funnel it down to the tanks, so I'm looking at removing a chunk of the top. And I also have no table saw. Wheee. What I do have Dremel (x2) with associated cutting wheels Jig saw (With associated plastic cutting blades) Circular Saw Mitre saw Hand saws (tenon, crosscut, hack, pruning, etc) So, here's one that I'm throwing open. With the tools I have, how would you do it? I'm leaning towards the dremel, but there would probably be issues with maintaining a straight line (not that I care about some warp, it's a gutter) Ideas? *EDIT* Ended up using a jig saw with an acrylic cutting blade. Worked a treat.
Topic by taleya | last reply
I have a 16 gigabyte flash drive that's relatively empty (13.7GB free space), and I was trying to put a 5 gigabyte .ISO file onto it. However, when I try to copy the file to the flash drive, I get an error saying there is not enough space to put the file on the flash drive. I know this is not true because I have over 13 gigs of free space. Is there any reason for this weird error and is there any fix? This is kinda important.
Topic by DJ Radio | last reply
I recently mad an instructable and entered it into the contest. i am pretty sure it met the requirements of the contest. check it out and comment either on here or on the instructable itself if you think there is any reason for it not being accepted yet. https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Clean-a-Computer-Mouse/ it might be still pendin but im not sure
Topic by EPL | last reply
I need help please anyone. I have bought another CNC shield recently, goes by the CNC Shield ver 2.7 name. The board has www.lubandiy.com printed on one corner. There are 8 optical isolators on the board for the limit switches and a socket for a Nano. Also there is a heavy duty hexfet near the laser connections. I am not able to find out much about this board, even though I have asked the seller and even a few other sellers that are on ebay. I went to the website as shown on the board, but it is all in Chinese and after trying to use Google translate was still not able to find out any further information. The board looks well made and seems to have a lot of good features, but lacks the needed info to be able to put it to good use. I am not sure if the board has a laser TTL built in or not, it is possible due to the hexfet being there, There are two heavy duty connections (two pin each marked + - ) and a small connection with a xh2 socket that could be for a laser or maybe a fan. Can't get any further info on it. If anyone can help with info, please let me know so I can start to use the board with my machine build. I have managed to program a Nano with GRBL 1.1f and it works OK when testing the board on a dry run, no motors connected or laser.
Question by regpye | last reply
I will begin telecommuting and I have a 2 month old baby and a 2 yr old. A noise cancelling mic will reduce some sound but I want to make sure customers can't hear my household noise coming from other parts of the house. What can I do to reduce sound to the home office I set up in the extra bedroom? I am in a rental property and cannot make permanent structural changes.
Question by Rasheeday | last reply
Hi, I'm trying to understand in a simplified diagram how to use a 12v motor to raise and lower a panel in my car,the hardware I can make fairly easily but it's the wiring I'm struggling with,I understand that 2 limit switches have to be used to stop and start the motor,also that the polarity of the motor has to be changed to raise and lower the panel, I also want to use the vehicles ignition switched circuit to raise and lower the panel as opposed to using a rocker switch, Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated, Kind regards, Darren.
Question by Rallyingace | last reply
Hi there,I was wondering where I can find the list of my subscribers and the one I am following? It seems that the old instructables.com/you/subscribers ist not working anymore...Can someone please help me, thanks a lot.
Question by sun.
I am working on mechanical hinges. It's a case design for mobile along with hinge.i need some input regarding position lock seam hinges like the one shown in attached images/i am designing this case for ipad/tab.How exactly these hinges works ? and i need internal 3d model of these hinges? how exactly it look from inside? and what is prefered manufacturing method for making these type of objects ?
Topic by adityay17 | last reply
I have a 2TB external hard drive with lots of stuff on it Recently it stopped working and now I cant access it I have tried it in many computers but they only ever find the SATA to usb bridge which connects the hard drive to the computer I have also tried some hard drive recovery programs, some of them find the hard drive but when they scan it, they find nothing Does anyone know of a good, working, reliable hard drive recovery program (free if possible) or any other way to get the stuff off of it Thanks
Question by Jareadx | last reply
I bought a small, industrial motor and want to safely slow it's rpm. Does anyone have any advice as how to best go about this? I've looked into gearing and found this to be quite complex but understand that an alternative option may be to change the voltage received by the motor? Thank you for any help you provide
Question by ambrosiaceae | last reply
I recently ordered a REX C100 for my electric melting furnace project. As it came already with a SSR and temp sensor I only added a sensor capable of reading more than 400° of the supplied one. These controller are dirt cheap and have lots of support in the modding community - although you now can get them new in all variations so no more modding required. Internally they run on 12V DC, so even mobile use is possible (but this time after modding). My problem with this controller started with the not included manual. As it is no China clone but an original from RKC Japan, I downloaded their manual and tried to adjust the max temp settings as well as changing to the thermocouple. To my surprise the menus for that simply did not exist on my model. Reading a few more manuals showed that to get to the "initial or factory setup" you need to change the lock code. Here things get confusing: Once in the lock menu setting most manuals state to enter "0000" to activate the hidden menus. (Mine was alreay on 0000) Others state to set the code to "0100". In any case you have to hold the setup key for a few seconds to store the changes and after that hold the settings and shift key for about 5 seconds to enter these factory menus. After being close to send the unit back I tried different code combinations and finally found that "1000" actually activates the hidden menu on my model! But again there was no joy as several vital settings still did not show up. To finally get all settings another step is required: The first item in the hidden menu is "CODE" and it shows as "0000". After changing this to "0001" the setup key can be used to get to the settings to change the max and min temps. Once all this done the controller actually shows the selected sensor and if Celsius or Fahrenheit is used at the start and from now on simply by clicking through the hidden menu with the setup key you can get to the min and max temp settings again. I hope this info will help someone running into the same brick walls as I did...
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I Bought myself a Lego RCX for Christmas this year... I wanted to use it with my windows 10 PC, after inserting the software disk(s) and realizing that it was meant for windows 98 and it won't work on my modern PC I went ahead and installed virtual box and ran windows XP on it. I installed the Lego software (which installed without any problems) but when I tried to launch it there was a "Not Enough Disk Space Error" Even though the virtual hard drive has 200GB free. Any Ideas?By the way, I tried the "Emulator" that is built into windows 10, it also didn't work (The one were you go into properties, compatibility, and change it to windows 98).I Also tried Windows 98 in virtual machine, when I launched it there was no "Not Enough Disk Space" errors, but there was a error that said something along the lines of "this program requires 800x600 resolution minimum" When I went into the control panel my resolution was 640x480, and I couldn't move the slider to make the resolution higher for some reason.And I do not want to use any of the other programs for coding the RCX (Bricx command center, etc).Any Help would be appreciated!Thanks.
Question by Lightwings_17 | last reply
I have Photodraw 2000 on my computer from several years ago - I copied it onto my newer computer and I use it all the time to add text, borders or effects and to correct old photos or erase backgrounds. I use my photos for various purposes, for teaching and family use, so it's good to be able to do lots of things with the photos in just one simple program I love Photodraw- it has so many uses and is easy to use. I never got the hang of using layers as in paint.net (which I've tried ) and Photoshop (which seems so expensive and complex). Does anyone else still use Photodraw or am I hanging on to a dinosaur here?
Topic by Puzzledd | last reply
I have 2 Mobility scooters with similar circuit boards , one has 3 more items connected thru the circuit board where as the other one has those 3 items in the fiberglass body on the tiller . One has the Ignition wires as B+(SW) and B+ as the ignition wires on the bigger circuit board , And the other has B+(SW) but no makings on the circuit board that says B+ ( but it does have B- ) , Both scooters have Curtis Motor Controllers 1203A,But it says in the Curtis 1208C manual that The B+(andB-, if applicable ) wires supply power to the throttle control panel ----such as for the key switch ---- should be bundled with the remaining throttle wires so that all these wires are routed together .i've enclosed some pics and hope some one can help ..Below are some pics describing the 2 Circuit board set ups for the same scooters hope some one can enlighten an old brain (that's slowly fading )Kindest Regards in advance Gordon
Question by GordonP9 | last reply