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Dear fellow human being,I am working on a project wich uses the STM32L010K4 microcontroller. We implemented the chip on a PCB and we can write pins high and low and we’re able to use SPI. This project revolves around a GPS application. We’re trying to use the UART protocol with the stm32CubeMx IDE. We’re also trying to make some large/complex computations, I read online that this could potentially lead to stack overflow. I also read the datasheet and the uart is and spi are part of two different alternate functions. This is the message we get when trying to implement uart.With kind regards, Reinier

Please i need advice im a pyro maniac and im sorta addicted to blowing things up how do i stop? ps as im writing this message im overclocking a lighter with 1 hand

We all have one, what is yours? Mine would be A) Chrysler ME 412 or B) Saleen S7

i am 14 years old and have minimal leg/arm hair i do have some but not much is there any reason?

Is it worth it to take the electron gun out of a CRT when salvaging parts? I've seen people remove the electron gun when they take apart the CRT but I don't know what they'd use it for. What can you do with a CRT electron gun? What chemicals does the gun contain? (I know the screen has toxic phosphor and stuff but I'm talking about the gun itself). Also, is it safe to vent a CRT tube? I have found that you should vent the CRT tube before working on it, by smashing the end from a distance, so that it won't implode if you happen to break it when working on it. But is it safe to puncture open the tube? There are toxic phosphors inside and I worry that venting it could cause toxic chemicals to go airborne.

A news article in Nature reports on a group that has constructed three dimensional boxes, including a lockable lid, from DNA. Using specifically designed oligonuclitides, the boxes self-assemble chemically from long strands of DNA in solution. According to the article, "It takes only an hour or two for billions of boxes to form by themselves."The article include both "artists conceptions" and electron-microscope images of the actual objects.Update 13 May 2009: The Nature article above has been put into restricted access. Here is a Science News report which is not restricted.

It's not every day or with all shoes, or only after eating cod at the pub...

I just rewired the family's "camping trailer" and the next project that I have to tackle is power. Don't ask why we need a bunch of power when camping, it makes stuff more fun. Anyhow two of the ideas my dad and I have are theoretically easy. The first one is something that is really simple, just some solar cells. However my initial  thought is that it may not be enough to power the car/marine batteries on the trailer in a manageable amount of time (with a small budget). The second idea is to connect a generator head(s) to the axle of the trailer, so whenever we are driving the trailer (often for about an hour on the highway) the batteries are charging My questions are, what type of generator heads (if that is what I want) should I use? What type of gearing would I need? Could this be worked on a humble budget? Would this be practical for charging car/marine batteries? Thanks, Jake J

Hello,EveryoneToday i have a question,how to build own physical object like active low pass filter with 2 or more op amps...Maybe here can Someone share projects,which i didint found here or in google... or maybe to share essential information about manafacturing or theory about these types of filters. Sorry for my English,Have a nice day! :)

Hi - sorry to interrupt, but I want to make a Quiet Place type monster costume, so I was thinking of putting lavalier microphones into certain ear spots (the entire costume is a cross between the Demogorgon and Death Angel - with some other creature traits included), and I was wondering how I could make it so the input of the lav mic could be played directly into my ear? I will he otherwise fairly hard of hearing in this costume otherwise I think. Also, eye holes? Anyways I can figure all that other stuff out I just need help with this sound stuff. Thanks!!

I know all the basics I just need the advanced.

For all of those rap fans out there, I want to know which one of these you prefer; Eminem or Lil' Wayne? Both of them are really popular, but I want to see what the Instructables community thinks of them. I personally would go for Eminem.

Apartment living, (1st time), has introduced me to variety of insects that I never even knew existed , & wish i never knew. Therefore I have a theory on the maiming or killing, and hopefully blowing up BED BUGS !!Putting hydrogen peroxide on blood stains, takes the stains out. If you have a wound, putting hydrogen peroxide on it, will bubble the infection, dirt & blood. Therefore cleaning the wound. So, if we get a spray bottle of hydrogen peroxide, we could spray on, around & or in where the bugs are, and the theory is that the bed bugs would sizzle up or explode like it does when you put hydrogen peroxide on a wound.If anyone has the chance to spray hydrogen peroxide on a bed bug, ( make sure not to spray yourself because h peroxide dries out the skin ,Major wise )!! Please let me know. I pray I never see one anywhere near me. I get all `Buggzy wuggzy` Not a nice feeling,.... paranoid about every little itch, every little mark, terrible, terrible !But again, this is my theory about Bed Bugs. Maybe I`ll get my doctorate on Bed Bugs & Hydrogen Peroxide. lol

Bool;float A;float B;float C;float D;float volt1;float volt2;float volt3;float volt4;int a;int b;int c;int d; void setup (){ if (a, b, c, d >=3.2) { 1;}else{ 0;}Serial.begin(9600);}void loop(){ A = analogRead(A0); B = analogRead(A1); C = analogRead(A2); D = analogRead(A3); volt1 = (A*(4.883))/1000; volt2 = (B*(4.883))/1000; volt3 = (C*(4.883))/1000; volt4 = (D*(4.883))/1000; a = volt1; b = volt2; c = volt3; d = volt4; ((b&&c;)||(a&&c;)||(a&&b;))&&d;//this is a boolean logicSerial.println (a);Serial.println (b);Serial.println (c);Serial.println (d);delay (1000);}

I love freeze dried fruits. However, they are super expensive. Does anyone know how to make a freeze dryer at home? I have no idea if it would even be possible or cost effective.

Ok, so I've done a little searching and so far no one has said this can be done without expensive equiptment so I'm not getting my hopes up.   Here's my idea:  Place my flowers in a container with silica gel, seal it, and put the whole thing in a deep freezer for a couple weeks.  Then I would unplug the freezer to allow the temperature to slowly rise.  I THINK the silica gel will eliminate the need for a vacuum by absorbing the moisture instead of pulling it out.  Its a long shot, I know.  Has anyone tried this?  Does anyone think it would work?  Has anyone found another way to preserve flowers so they maintain their shape and color? I plan on coating them in resin to use in jewelry designs so they need to look as fresh as possible. Thanks for any ideas you can give me!

It is no longer sold in craft stores except in England and Europe. It was used to make plastic flowers. Dip in a wire form and it makes a minimum surface like a soap bubble.

I want to seperate some water to get Hydrogen to play with, so I made a little electrolysis device with a 12v power supply. The only problem is that I have no idea what to use as the anode and cathode! Could I just use screws? Or pennies or something?

Https://vlc.onl/ I've seen all the options for the Arduino starter kits in amazon but I don't know if I should buy an Arduino board or a elegoo one. AppvalleyAnd also if someone knows som recommendations about some https://vlc.onl/complete kits of Arduino that recommend me to buy. Thanks. Tweakbox

Let's say I need to have a resistor in a circuit rated for 10 Watts. If I had two resistors rated for 5 W, could I wire them in parallel to make the equivalent power rating 10 W? I know my resistance will be different but I'm not sure how the power rating would differ.

Hi! This is my first topic here!I am thinking about starting a project but I'd first like to know if anyone has better ideas about how to make it.I want to make a "smart mat" - a mat that, when it senses pressure (in other words, when someone is stepping on it) it send me a notification. Does anyone have any ideas on whats the best way to make it? I was thinking on maybe use a smart door/window sensor and somehow change its state when someone steps on the mat.If not, maybe use an arduino but I don't know what kind of sensor I could use or where to buy it...Thank you!

I created this custom etched Halloween tombstone using builder's foam, latex paint and spray paint. The method of creation is to use a water based paint to create a resist that will protect the foam from dissolving when painted with the spray paint. This technique works really well to create the weathered stone look that older limestone monuments take on after a couple hundred years. For this project I was trying to create a broken then repaired tombstone that was partially covered in moss. Project Process - First sketch the design layout using a marker. Then paint the areas that you want to remain un-etched. Next, spray the entire face tombstone with a heavy, even coat of spray paint. It will take a few minutes... but the face will be etched as much as 1/2" deep depending on how heavy a coat of spray paint. After the etching paint has dried, paint the entire tombstone with latex primer and then add any desired painted effects. For this project, I used a grey granite spray paint and then added sand that was painted a moss green color (adhering it with spray adhesive). Total active work time was approximately 2 1/2 hours. A full Instructable of this project to follow soon...

It is truly a shame that judgments in our contests have again been made which serve to promote rehash and discourage creativity. After having watched the Make It Fly! contest make this mistake last month, I could only shake my head as the DIY Summer Camp Challenge also fumbled the ball and awarded a prize to an unoriginal post. Once again, unoriginal projects have landed in the winners' circle while new creations have been left to flounder. On a site that prides itself on people doing things for themselves, this is cause for alarm. Posting someone else's creations under your own name is not doing it yourself. It's high time that that be acknowledged and it be discouraged. Rewarding unoriginal projects is not an avenue to promoting new ideas, developments or breakthroughs. On the contrary, this approach provides an incentive and a compelling case to not pursue new ideas.  Instructables' successes are based on its being a center for new ideas, not old hat. Nevertheless, we are teetering dangerously toward that point with moves like this. Rehashes' qualifications are questionable The statements made in the commentary for the contests--the language of the competitions themselves--speak a resounding "no" against unoriginal content. In the header for the DIY Summer Camp Challenge, it is asked: "What interesting things can you do or make to keep the kids entertained this summer? [...] Share your games, activities, craft projects, and more." In the header for the Make It Fly Contest 2016, the opportunity is given for: "Three, two, one… ignition and lift off! The Make It Fly Contest has taken off and that gives you the perfect excuse to let your creativity take to the skies." There is nothing indistinct about the terms. They clearly outline the project is to be your own, not someone else's. If you are reposting another person's creation, you are upholding neither the contests' specifications nor spirit. In the standard contest terms for each contest, the judgment criteria is given: "Judging. All entries that are in compliance with all terms and conditions of these Rules will be judged on the basis of the following criteria (the "Criteria"): clarity, ingenuity, creativity, quality of presentation, and execution of the Instructable." Rehashed projects which contain contents from others' makings are neither ingenious nor creative. As a result, they ought to receive the minimum score in the sections of ingenuity and creativity if they are not barred from the competitions outright. What this means for makers now: Speaking in reference to how I had handled the contests myself, I spent several weeks perfecting several entries of my own. One of the projects, entered into only the DIY Summer Camp Challenge, was the result of many months' worth of development and refinement. The news that my efforts in those months were all for naught while similar themed but wholly unoriginal projects were selected as winners only served to tell me one thing: the time I spent developing and fine tuning the new projects was all for naught. Currently, the appeal for a person to set their best DIY foot forward and actually do something for themselves has become troublingly shaky. There is now a track record of rehashed projects taking home prizes while other original projects have faced ignominous defeats. There is a precedent to unoriginal trumping original. With rehash supported and honored, it is now reasonable for users to conclude that creativity is neither valued nor worth its costs and that unoriginal copying is a better way of doing things. This could ultimately promote a worsening spiral of disinterest in, apathy toward, and the stagnation of new developments in the numerous fields of endeavor makers strive to go forth in. The chances at falling into this trend draw increasingly close and they cannot be allowed to continue if we wish to see progress. Where we need to go from here: Creativeness must be shown to be valued by Instructables or makers are not likely to pursue it in future competitions. As I did a year ago, I recommend the Instructables staff and judges: Judge unoriginal projects as such and give them the earned low marks for ingenuity and creativity based on their lacking in both regards (if they are even legally fit to continue on in the competition) Not promote unoriginal designs by featuring them Reposting old things is a slide to the past, not a ladder to the future. Makers must act today to make a better, more creative tomorrow and copying is no way to do that.

Instructables.com -> RSS Feed don't work.Check please.

Made in Germany

Hi,did anyone made arduino wifi tally system?

Hello, i was just messing with circuits and i found this one above in the image i really want to make this but i don't have a BF494 transistor so my question is : Is it possible to replace this transistor with any other transistor if possible please name all possible replacement you know!

Like to get it's kit for assembly and test it's effect

Hi folks!I am 16, and I want to build a BCI that the paralyzed use for controlling a robot. I have watched the most courses series on YouTube. But I still feel lost and I don't know where to start. I want the project to end up successfully. Ie when the user wears a headset and he/she wants to drink, the robot gives them water and so on. What kind of brain signals should I use. What steps should I take in order. I don't want the project to take years. I wand to end it as soon as possible.Thanks!!

I went to my workbench today to discover that my BK Precision 30MHz analog scope has stopped working. Symptoms: ❶  Still shows a trace ❷  The trace does draw across the screen*  ❸  The horizontal time base seems to work ❹  10x horizontal magnification seems to work ❻  XY mode only draws in the X direction ❼  Waveforms do not show up, for either chA or chB ❽  Triggering seems to work (it causes the trace to draw more/less frequently. No vertical deflection)  ❾   Vertical controls for both channels have stopped working ❿   Dual trace shows only one trace ⓫   I have not been able to do anything to make the trace move up and down, vertical deflection is definitely shot. ⓬   * When changing the timebase, I noticed that the length of the trace horizontally gets shorter, and when a signal is present, or the vertical position for the appropriate channel is twiddled, it becomes the right length, within certain ranges. ⓭    When I was reaching for a powerstrip to turn off power to the lab the previous night, I heard a loud buzz, similar to that of the degaussing on a old computer monitor, but louder. no sparks or anything were visible as I recall. scared the crap outta-me, and I could not figure out what had happened. First thought was that maybe somewhere there was a live mains exposed somewhere that had shorted to ground or neutral. That was quickly dismissed since nothing was exposed like that, and also it would have popped the circuit breaker, and instead would have sounded like a firecracker. This sounded more like a small transformer failing. Also the same day, I have been messing with a tesla coil circuit (my beefed up slayer exciter) and the probes were sitting here by not connected picking up interference. They were in 10X mode, I do not remember the volts per division, however. I do recall a trace being shown on the display the previous day. With these symptoms, I think the issue has to do with the vertical control on the CRT, and perhaps another, separate issue with the horizontal time base control, or possibly triggering. I think I might do a teardown on it to see if there is anything obvious that has failed, such as a charred coil. Then I will need to figure out what had caused the issue. It is obviously something gone horribly, horribly wrong with vertical deflection or something of the like. I will have a look at the schematic and see what I can learn about the operation of the scope. I am glad I do have the user manual and schematics, so it should be straightforward, it is a nearly 100% BJT design. The scope was used and old, and lacked a lot of features, such as cursors and frequincy counters. Perhaps it is time for a digital upgrade anyway... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N222I6C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p504_d15_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf;_rd_s=desktop-1&pf;_rd_r=1VEC8M45MB2T9REXCR7N&pf;_rd_t=36701&pf;_rd_p=2079475242&pf;_rd_i=desktop

Hi, I am building a robot where i want to follow me, I made a part with GPS, it gets my coordinates from mobile and drives to towards me, but this has some issues like:1. When you are close to robot, GPS accuracy is not good. my robot has accuracy arround 1.5m, while phone has arround 5-6m accuracy, total 7-8m accuracy is not very good.2. GPS doesn't work indoor.So I am tying to find a solution that for two cases:1. in outdoor, when robot get closer it may switch to another option instead of GPS to follow me, camera or some sensor. I saw cameras like HUSKYLENS where you can track face and objects easily but I don't know if this will work to track person from behind without seen face directly. There was some options used Ping sonar's to track.2. indoor, where i think if I find a solution for outdoor, it will work in indoor also. I prefer to use HUSKYLENS lens but its bit expensive for me to order it, I am trying to get sure that this might work. In this link there is one simple example, which works very nice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5ftBT3Swdw

The frog/toad looks to be a American toad. It has a best described as a shaved head. It has a hole on the front of it's head that leads into it's mouth. It looks to be missing an eye as well. It seams to have an injured limb on it's front left. It has been alive for over 16 hours, it seams to have gotten better than when we first found it. We have fed it dried blood worms. We have not seen it eat them but they are gone from the make shift enclosure. I am worried that it may not be able to survive in the wild if we release it after it heals. That is if it heals. I just don't know what to do, please help. NOTE the water got the chemicals removed before we put it in there. We also tried to get the grass off of it by using water (again without chemicals) but we couldn't get all of it off.           We found out it has Toad Fly ( I think that is what it is called ). I am so glad It wasn't me who ran it over with a lawnmower the other day. I still feel sad for it though.

Hey all.I scored some cheap LED drop-in replacement tubes and intended to get some old fluorescent light fixtures up and working again.Unfortunately the fixtures' ballasts seem to be bad -- which I suppose is no great surprise since they were taken out of service for a reason.My question is, even though the LED's I've got are intended to be used with a ballast, can I simply wire them directly?I don't see that a ballast does anything to the frequency/voltage, and according to Wikipedia its purpose is "to stabilize the current through the lamp, and to provide the initial striking voltage required to start the arc discharge". LED's shouldn't care about any of this.Or is there something I'm overlooking?

Hi Everybody, I need help with project I am up to so any advices would be much appreciated. Setup: Laptop power supply 20V 3A 4x TP4056 with protection 4x 18650 lion cells of different condition 4x P-MOSFET 4x Schotky diode 4x 1k resistor 1x step down module 1x step up module Task: Want to build 18650 cell charger (backup power supply) using 20V power supply and charging circuit with TP4056 in parallel. Goal: Should be able to run constantly connected to main power supply being able to simultaneously charge the cells (and cut them of while fully charged) and supplying power to the load. For the input I plan to use step down convertor to get 5V (for parallel connected TP4056 chargers) and for output step up convertor to get 12V for the load. I did a lot of research already, therefore I incorporate P-MOSFET, Diode and 1K resistor to not to disturb the precision of the charger and prevent the drain of the cells once charged. I also draw the circuit how I think it should be done. I am new to this so I will appreciate any input, correction or alternative to this. Whole idea is to be able to charge cells which are unmatched without balancer and being safe. I am not sure if the TP4056 protection would serve sufficiently for this. Also am interested how much would be maximal possible current output. Plan to use Samsung IRC18650 24b cells at the moment which I salvaged from my old laptop battery.

I am living in a condo (apartment Building, 2nd Floor). For the last 5 days my house smells of chemicals like paint or something very close to the paint . In the living room we have small office area with computer and printer where smells very strong. Also this smell is in the kitchen, in the bedroom, all over the apartment. I am the only one that can smell it. It is not paint. The refrigerator works ok, the stove is electric and the furnace is turned off.  The Consumers checked for gas, but there was non. Who should I call in order to come and detect where  this smell is coming from? 

Aspergers Syndrome has only been recognized since about 1995, we call ourselves Aspies. Try this test http://www.rdos.net/eng/ make sure you follow the instructions the results will only survive for an hour, so download them ASAP, the picture (a pie graph) or Aspie-Rating-Picture (ARP) and final score, you can chose to show to people, but the questions and answers are very personal, keep those to yourself. I plan to put my ARP here, that is something us Aspies enjoy displaying, something to be proud of, I hope that other Aspie group members put theirs on. Your Aspie score: 181 of 200 Your neurotypical (non-autistic) score: 28 of 200 You are very likely an Aspie It is possible to cheat to get a high score on the ARP, so I am thinking that ARPs can be voted off by members if members find the ARP unbelievable when comparing the member's ARP with said member's profile and activities on Instructables. Aspies don't practice discrimination, so even if you don't have Aspergers Syndrome, consider yourself as a honorary Aspie and sign up anyway. Visit https://www.instructables.com/community/Analysing-your-test-results-for-Aspergers-Syndrome/ A free for all, discussion on self analysis of your test picture (a pie graph) or Aspie-Rating-Picture (ARP) and final score Another link for Aspies is http://www.psychforums.com. I will dig out more shortly, I have list somewhere, but that one was not it I recall.

I am thinking of getting a Spyder MR1 to convert into one of these.  Anyway, the issue is the forward vertical grip piece. I am pretty sure that it is just basically a square tube that the gas feed hose runs through. I really don't need it there because it would interfere with the design. No one has been able to tell me if it can be removed. Hence, my asking here. I think there is a screw on it, but I am not sure, So, after all that background crap, my question is: can I remove this thing without messing it up? 

Hi, so I have recently salvaged an old garage door motor, I have managed to a separate the DC motor from the casing and now I am converting it into a generator (by removing the metal core and replacing it with permanent magnets.) The motor's label says 120v, what can I make with a motor this size? Will this motor be acceptable to convert and make into a generator for wind turbine or bike? Label: THE CHAMBERLAIN GROUP INC. MOTOR No. 123D67 120V 60 Hz 4.5A 70 degrees C INT. DUTY THERM-PROTECTED  TYPE T. (CL. B (Odd symbol) OBJY2 188B72) ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO Thanks guys!

Hi there, I have a question regarding the connection port inside the mouse (Dell). It shows d+(green wire), d-(white wire) , s(black wire), v(red wire), and g (empty no wire). See attached photo. I'm trying to add a timer to it and I need to add a wire to the v(red wire) and a wire to the ground, but my question is there is no wire that currently goes to the ground inside the mouse so where to I add my ground wire? In the empty slot? Or to the s(black wire, usually the ground) is it considered to be the ground? What does s(black wire) mean? Thank u for ur time

I am a rising director needing ideas i have a movie group that me and my friends started and we are looking for good movie ideas worthy enough to be in one of our short films. so people please give ideas

I want to build a HHO generator to supply a heat source for hydronic heating(under floor and/or baseboard). Use solar or wind to supply energy to run HHO generator and pump for heat system. Anyone else thought about this? As I see it, this could heat a home for free. Does anybody have any thoughts or suggestions on the subject?

The typewriter is an AEG Olympia ES-95i. It's a big beige electronic machine from maybe the late 70s or early 80s.On the back there is a 20 pin rectangular male connector with 2 rows of 10 pins. If I connect random pins with something metal, it types various characters. I'm wondering if anybody knows what kind of interface this thing might use so I can go about connecting it to my computer.EDIT1:I've found a bit more random information about this type of device which might help:http://www.atarimagazines.com/creative/v9n6/133_Praxis_makes_perfect_Oli.phpApparently Olympia made another typewriter in the same line that was basically the same as a bytewriter model. Irritatingly the article says the bytewrite provides no technical information "other than the pin-out assignments for the connector. "It would appear from the rest of the article that the connector might be some kind of modified centronics interface.I'll try to get a picture up soon.EDIT2:Here's the photo. Whatever it is I hope it turns out to be bidirectional so I can use this as a tty :).

I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that I intend to customize just a little (well, a lot).  Recently I was at a garage sale and bought a 6 disk CD changer for $1.  I'm hoping this was a worthy investment since I want to install it in my glove compartment and wire it into a custom stereo system.  That's all fine and dandy, but step one is to figure out how to reverse engineer the proprietary control systems.  Eventually I want the air condititioning, stereo, and this 6 disk CD changer to be interfaced to a computer with a big ole touchscreen in the dash.  I'm going to need to do a few things: 1. Figure out the wiring for the 6 disk CD changer so that I can power it up, control it through the computer, and connect it's audio output to my car's speakers.  2. Figure out the wiring for the air conditioner so I can control it with the computer. 3. Get a touch screen that fits in the dash (I'll measure it later), that I can use with a computer with (relative) ease.  These are my goals for right now.  If I can figure this out, I will be ready for the next phase, actually installing the new dash.  If anyone can recommend any sources to learn more about basic car work, that'd be helpful too.  I'm used to computers.  The lid comes off.  Screws are all easily accessible.  Parts don't weigh more than I do.  I know where everything goes and what everything does inside.  Since a car is so proprietary, and such a new field for me to be working in, ANY resources would be greatly appreciated.  How do I figure out how to take things apart in my car?  FYI: The disk changer is marked with part number 39115-s3v-a011-m1 Update (18 August 2012): I added some pictures.  The connector I am holding is the only connector that comes out of the box. 

Hi! I would like to make, buy, or find, a low voltage high amperage transformer to power an electrolosis cell. I like playing with the hydrogen-oxygen gas produced. From what I have read, I only need about 1.8 volts for electrolosis, so I'd like a circuit or transformer that could take the power from preferable a 9 volt battery and convert it to 1.8v at as high an amperage as I can get. Thanks : )

I want to make a single phase electrical energy measurement module using IC V9881D. After learning a little about the IC, it turned out that the IC had to be programmed before it could be used. I don't know how to program the IC. Does anyone know how to program the V9881D IC so that it can produce voltage (Volts), current (Amperes), power (Watts), and single-phase electrical energy (Kwh)?

Hi guys It's for a ventilator (open source ) project So I want to modify some stuff & Kinda upgrading the app So my probleme are in sensors ( pressure sensor , airflow sensor) For the pressure sensor I decide to take this one: https://www.amazon.fr/capteur-pression-num%C3%A9rique-contr%C3%B4ler-liquide/dp/B07L3W7ZX4/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_1/260-6246725-4613710?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07L3W7ZX4&pd_rd_r=42b40455-3d50-4ccd-87af-ee019666e36d&pd_rd_w=VrwYG&pd_rd_wg=CudOO&pf_rd_p=15678560-0024-4e81-8430-a45dacf37d9a&pf_rd_r=8XBAXNN7E6SHH9MCYB8Y&psc=1&refRID=8XBAXNN7E6SHH9MCYB8Y The range of pressure needed(0- 5 pka) is fine (0-40 pka) But the problem is the airflow sensor.. (0- 20/25L/MN) I thinker about water flow sensor (0-30L/MN) {YF-S201} That's will be work??? If no please give me some advice or , kinda of sensor that I can use for measuring the airflow The porpus of all that it's to make an graphic , like monitoring of the ventilator Best regards

OK... As many of you may have heard, the forums here @ Instructables are closing permanently this october. See https://www.instructables.com/community/Retiring-...This may have its cause and it is all explained in the linked post. I want to thank the instructables-Team to have provided such a great community over all these years. I learned a lot and enjoyed reading all those posts and answering those questions asked. I may even have had a positive influence on someones live. Who knows?Anyway: I dont aggree with the result of the analysis that there is a falling # of posts and activity in the forums here. I think it was more a self-killing system with bad & old Forum-software not motivating for new users and new posts. This in return gives low activity and low incentive for staff to update the forum and make it more appealing. Less appealing forum = low user-acitvity = low staff-incentive = Less appealing forum = ...I still think there is a big benefit for a dedicated forum for DIY and instructables. But ranting does help nobody. It is a free world and Instructables / Autodesk have made the decision. OK. Lets see what we can do from here on.I quickly grabbed a Domain, booked a webhosting and set up a rudimentary phpBB.-->> http://diy-forums.net/ <<--Currently, userregistration is disabled. If you want to help out, please dont hsitate to contact me here om Instructables via PM. Soon we will have the structure and details and rules fleshed out and will be opening the gates.Someone has a nice idea for a logo?

Hello. I try to program an Arduino-sketch for cars and pedestrians. I have already made a begin to this sketch but there is an error in it.The sketch is attached to this topic. In line 16, the 'sensorValue' is not decleared. As i am a beginning programmer, i have not found a solotion yet. Ho can tell me what to give in to this sketch to make it run?Already thanks for answers.

I have a usb keyboard. somehow the usb cable is disconnected from the keyboard. I opened the keyboard. USB cable has 4 wires (1 blue, 1 orange, 1 white and 1 green). The circuit board has code like C, V, D and G. Now which one is for which wire? out of C,V,D and G which is for ground, which is for VCC and which is for Data+ and data- the color code of USB cable I know. But cannot understand which wire to connect which code (C,V,D,G) of circuit board?

I want to build a drafting table with a glass table top and a screen behind it. That way I can do things like:1) display reference images while I work on art2) trace things from screen onto paper3) toggle the screen to 100% white and use as a backlight4) draw shapes using traditional drafting tools and have them digitized. (Think of using triangles, compasses, and whatnot to draw on a Wacom Cintiq)It's that last thing that has me scratching my head. What are some affordable options for a fairly large screen with stylus (and possibly touch) capabilities?Will it work behind thick tempered glass?Should I / can I make my own digitizer?