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I use a dremel-clone. It has a set of grinders of three colors: blue, red-orange, and pink, the three in the same set. I can't see differences in hardness, but it must be differents, so... Can you help me in what color use in which task? Thank for your time!

I am trying to find a open or short circuit that is on a wire which is in a harness with other wires, on a 1986 Mazda B2000 truck. With so many of you having expertise in electronics, I thought here would be a good place to post my question. Does anyone have any suggestions how to find this open or short-circuit?I am open to the idea of getting a short-circuit-finder. Though I am not sure what features I should look for if I decide to get one. Does anyone have any suggestions?a) Does anyone know if these work well?b) What features should I look for If I get one?c) Do you have any other on a short circuit finder? type, manufacturer, model etcBelow is a link to a site that uses a short circuit finder to find a short circuit, and has information on using one: http://inliners.org/tech/tech6.htmlBelow is a link to a site that tells about how a tone generator is used to find a short circuit, in a home environment (I think this is how most short circuit finders work): http://askville.amazon.com/tone-gene...uestId=5912724I found some links that seem to show that it is possible to make a signal generator and tracer, but the pages with the schematics would not load. A list of tools with links to tools and their schematicshttp://www.qsl.net/kc4gzx/kc4gzx/project20.htmCircuit tracer (neither of these would not load 4-3-09 kept getting message "the Connection was reset."):should have schematic:http://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r111.gifand the signal generator:http://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r25.gifA little paranoid voice thinks this Instructable has some clues to the solution: How to prevent thefts steal your motorcycle for less than US$ 2 Thank-you in advance,

I want to know what the microcontroller that can i use and i wish if it is arduino because it will be easier for me to get it .

I think that we all have had to endure the annoyance of a ring on our binder that doesn't fully close. I am becoming quite impatient with the fact that every time I try to close my binder one of the rings is the slightest bit unclosed and my paper end getting very jumbled. PLEASE HELP!!!!                                

I would like to connect 4 motors without speed control, 1 stepper and 3 leds and I don't know how to connect it with the L293D shield.Can anyone help me?Thanks

I am currently designing a counter circuit, however, i keep running into issues and a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Components I want to include: - a 7-segment display and 4026 - a PICAXE and/or a 555 IC (the PICAXE would be used to turn the device off without resetting the 7-segment display) - an LED to show that the device is on - three switches: one to reset, one to turn off/on the device and one to add to the count - possibly a piezo buzzer to read the count on the 7-segment display (?)I have attempted to make this circuit (it is attached) but did not get very far. Again, any advice would help, thanks.

My most recently saved version turned the step into garbage, and when I attempt to use the revert feature I get a pink box saying "sorry there was an unexpected problem". Regardless of which previous versions I attempt to rever to I get the same response. I thought perhaps there was something wrong with the website, but It's now been over 12 hours, and the response doesn't change. Could someone please tell me how to solve this?

Though there's no members at the moment I figured I'd go ahead and start a topic. In this one, just post pics or scans of some of your drawings. Here's three of mine:

Has anyone found a way to transfer 8 or 16mm film to dvd? It can be done by shooting a video of the projected image and using video to dvd software, or just use a dvd recorder. But, is there a way to mod an old antique projector to transfer it to a dvd recorder? Sending the 20 or so films that I'd like to save to a professional would cost a fortune.

I inherited a classroom full of old electrical equipment and parts. The high school's pathway has changed throughout the years and no one uses the equipment anymore. Some of the parts include resistors, soldering equipment, wires and cables and bulbs, multimeters, voltometers, alligator clips, etc. I teach an introduction to coding class and I have no background in electrical anything. I would like to create a maker space for these objects, but was wondering if anyone has ideas for starter projects that I could lead the students through, to get them familiar with these types of materials, and working with basic circuits? If we could throw in some coding, that would be even better! I'd love to use some of this equipment.

Hey guys watch this video my dad posted on youtube. Its of my dog Gizmo speaking he a black papian and weiner dog mix. Cutest dog ever! Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojtBzrFNWq4

I've always been interested in windmills. The vertical axis wind turbine (VAWT) seem really cool. I discovered there is a company that (under contract) assembles them right here in my state of Michigan. So, on our summer vacation last year I diverted the family unit over to the assembly plant to see what's new, and exciting. Well, guess what, the plant is closed on weekend. Who knew. Well, for one, Momma thought I should have. Oh well, we got to see their demo unit Windspire up close anyway. It was just whipping. Anyway, to my question, if I wanted to build a really efficient VAWT, what would be the best shape for the airfoil? I've attached an old patent I found that has a drawing (Patent 4247252). I copied the drawing into Inkscape and redrew the airfoil using bezel curves. But, is this the best shape to start with? I'm hoping some aeronautical engineer out there can comment. Thanks, Jim

I have a Gamecube controller I want to take apart, but it has triangle screws. They're like Phillips (four-pronged) but only have 3 prongs instead. I don't have a screwdriver for this, so I need a way to unscrew them.EXAMPLEUPDATE: Not trying to be impolite, but I am NOT looking for a place to buy this kind of screwdriver. I am looking for a way to unscrew them WITHOUT the specific screw driver.

So I have a HP Pavillion zv5320ca that likes to suddenly turn off now (not shut down...it just goes black and turns off like you pull out the AC connector). It starts to do this about 3 weeks ago. Before this, there was no problem for a few years. My HP Laptop is 4.5 years old today. It does this with the battery in and the battery out, hooked up to outlet power. About 3 weeks ago, I was typing on the keyboard and suddenly the battery icon appeared even when AC was plug-in. I have to unplug and re-plug the AC connector at the back of laptop, and then the battery icon would disappear. (Now my old battery doesn't keep a charge anymore). I know it isn't a heat problem, because I can turn the computer on first thing in the morning and it will sometimes shut off within 4 or 5 seconds. And my heat fans are clean (I clean them every 3 months). The CPU was not feeling hot at the bottom, and my Notebook Hardware Control software showed CPU temperature as +42C when this happened. So the nature of it is, I can turn the computer on, and sometimes it shuts off a few seconds after that, sometimes in the middle of the XP loading screen, and sometimes while Windows is loaded. I can use it for 8 hours and have no problems, or sometimes it will shut off 3 or 4 times within 20 minutes...or I can keep trying to turn it on, and it immediately shuts off. I need to re-plug the AC connector before the problem goes away, only to appear again later. What is going on? Anyone has any advice to solve this problem? Thanks in advance.

I really don't know how people who does screen printing transfer their designed onto that transparent paper already, its like every tutorial I watch is they skip this step:[ and i'm new in this kind of hobby.

Which type of material to use for making a quiet book?

After a decent search, i haven't come up with much.  So, does anyone know if i can put fiberglass into clay to make it stronger after firing? or would it re-melt into a bunch of tiny glass rods with no structural integrity?

Plz answer it

Currently I am creating a counter circuit. Ideally, I would like it to use a 555 timer, two 7-segment displays (so it could count from 0-99), 4026, picaxe 08M2 (so i could program it to switch off after a period of time without resting the 7-segment display), an LED (to indicate that the circuit is still on) and a piezo buzzer that would read the amount on the 7-segment display.Also, i'd like it to have three switches: one that resets the 7-segment display, one that adds a number to the count and one that reads the count/ amount of the 7-segment display.I have attempted to create this circuit but they are not successful (seen below). BTW it is not complete because i was trying to develop it.At this point I am stuck on what to do now, any help or point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I was thinking about another fun project that draws water out of the air with just the sun's energy. I noticed the empty open vinegar bottle I washed and set to dry on my window sill accumulate more moisture every day. It was pooling water in the bottom after a week. The bottle shape is like a ball with a long spout. I read a little about air wells on the web, but they are very large structures. It would be fun to build a small one that would make a few glasses of water a day. Comments?Here's one link Air Wells & Dew Ponds

Hi I'm new here - I'd be very grateful if someone could give me some tips. Apologies if I'm asking something that's already well covered. If so, please direct me.I'm building a TV lift cabinet that will use a 12V linear actuator to lift the TV. It is likely to take somewhere between 1-2 minutes to fully extend and retract the actuator. I want to be able to control the raising and lowering of the TV using a 3-way toggle switch that returns to the central 'off' position by itself. I want a nudge of the switch in one direction to operate the actuator for, e.g., 75 seconds (by which time it should be fully extended), and a nudge in the other direction to operate the actuator with polarity reversed to retract it. The timings are not critical, as the actuator will shut off automatically when fully extended/retracted.Many thanks, Chris

Hi my student id is a printed plastic photo id card as i am graduating this year it is about to expire is thee away to remove any of the information on the card like the an expiration date?

Hello. I made a Paintball-to-Airsoft-sniper conversion about a year ago. (Instructable soon! Don't worry. And another one after that!) I saw these Barrage barrels and wanted to know if anyone uses them or has used them, and what they think. My conversion uses a longer home-made barrel, not a Barrage barrel. These barrels are used in normal paintball guns to shoot BBs in .117 (bb gun bbs) or Airsoft (6mm) calibers. The barrel comes as a one-piece part that you just screw on. It has a Feet-Per-Second adjustment that supposedly ranges from 175FPS to 450FPS. There is an attached hopper that you put the ammo in. the barrels are about ten inches long, and made of solid aluminum.  Anyway, anyone know anything about them?

I inherited a circa 1980 Craftsman router and circa 1985 Craftsman router table from my Dad, who died last September. Since Sears seems to be on life support and I think the plug might get pulled on them, I had a look on their support pages for these manuals, while I still can. They sell parts for these models but don't have the original manuals. For a possibly similar router Sears wanted $8 for the manual. Ummm, no. This site has an awesome collection of old power tool manuals, free, and you don't have to register. http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx  

I am making an aircraft as like as cri cri. Now I want to know How to select engine, wing span and propeller size for an small aircraft?

This is my airsoft shotgun. It is quite near completion, however, i'm stuck. I have two m120(?) springs powering this beast. I need to come up with a trigger system that will hold back all of this force, while still having a semi-easy trigger pull. There is a metal screw that needs to be held back once i pump the, well, pump (the screw is pushed back by the pump.) Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. (BTW, i thought about a paint ball gun's trigger, but the only problem with that is that the screw has to lock back too far for this to be a viable option.) Also, the third picture is a shell. It would be filled with approx. 30 bbs and a cotton ball or toilet paper would plug both ends. The bolt has a part that extends through the shell and would force the bbs out.

I built a EMP Jammer from a bug zapper it creates a spark but there is no interference with cell phone calculator or light bulbs I use a 12 gauge copper wire I need help as to what can be the problem

Collodial Silver (silver ions in suspension - usually water) is supposed to have antiseptic properties. Do you think it would be enough to simply place a piece of solid silver jewellery into water to get more or less the same effect - even if the item was left in solution for, say, a week or so? Thanks.

If we look at so called magnet motors than they usually share the common works of a V-Gate somewhere.So with the energy crisis blooming it might make sense to take a look on how these fance toys are supposed to work, or not work.You can check Wikipedia and watch a lot of Youtube videos showing magnet motors or just V-Gate magnet toys in operation.As the name suggests the permanent magnets are placed in a V shape configuration.Either linear or in a circle / on a drum.And the working theory suggests that if you place one or two magnets at the right spot in relation to the V than forces will make things move.It is great fun to play with a V-Gate just to figure out how the magnets actually interact.The longer you play with it and experiment the closer you think you are to actually make it work.No matter what you try though there is always a spot or an area where the magnet do the exact opposit of what they are supposed to do, the bind instead of making things move.Especially in the videos you can see a lot of interesting ways trying to compensate for this or to fool you.And the thing really no one wants you to know is that the pushing forces you want actually reverse half way through the cycle.But at this point their forces are already quite low.Would make sense now to just use that part of the V that actually works and to repeat it, doesn't it?If you do then you always end up with the same as what you had before, just more sections of it ;)And since in nature everything is equal we can not make the unwanted forces disappear and only keep the ones we want.Or can we? ;)A flywheel is a good option to preserve energy and to store it.No wonder then that people like to go big and include as many magnets on the drum as possible, preferably big and heavy as well...And since we can see in some videos that you can even make it spin by moving the magnet bar by hand: How hard can it be to do it properly?A flywheel needs energy to get going, especially if heavy...If the system would have the energy to make this spin then for obvious reasons it would only get faster and faster - but none of these toys do this...And well, moving your hand requires energy too ;)But combined with a mechanical or magnetic link it shall work just fine, timing is everything...And so you keep going and trying and in reality get nowhere at all.As said, you can't have only positive forces without the corresponding negative force(s).Modern approaches to the problem....The famous Yildiz generator uses all sorts of tricks.For example electromagnets to cancel out the field of permanent magnets, powered by internal generator coils of course.Or shielding around some magnets to direct the magnetic field in other directions.Others try to use a different angle for the magnets so seemingly one side of the field is stronger than the other.And the real enthusiast even machine their own magnet shapes from block magnets to get the field lines where they want them to be.In some case you can even find claims of commercial products in operation, with a convient link to order you own on a long term contract.This seems to suggest that there is indeed a way to create at least electricity for "free"....Of course this only made more plausible by the "security packets" included with these lease agreements.Sealed units, 24/7 remote camera surveillance, online connection for remote monitoring and on the go adjustments....And, no without the constant feedback from base operations through the online connection the "generators" will just stop.In a way all this only makes the search for the holy grail of magnetism more interesting.Just consider this:If it is worth to waste god knows how much money to create elaborate fakes with supporting websites and articles seeded all over the net, then why is it worth it?A real money scam would be exposed quite quickly and the websited disappear with the business.And if it is a real and registered business then they have to make the money somehow in legal ways.A balanced approach to the realities and options to make V-gate motor/generator as a workable toy....We know we can cheat and we know we can use modern materials.To make an interesting toy we would need to make it look and work interesting.Just a moving drum is boring and prone to be called a fake right away.Some fancy lever moving the magnet bar is nice but already well too abused to pass.Gearboxes and cranks however are not used that often due to the complexity of creating them in your garage.And some mechancial master creation displayed in museums of other places as "perpetual" motion machines are insanely complex.It comes down to first mapping the areas of negative impact, then finding ways to compensate for them.Preferably in some fancy optical way.Like the magician uses slide of hand to fool you you distract the audience by providing them things to focus on.The more focus on the workings behind it all the more they forget to understand physics ;)For example: If you want to lift the magnet bar you can use a fancy looking crank wheel that is overbalanced for the binding forced of the magnets - fools the unsuspecting person to think you actually eliminated the forces while in reality the wrong balance causes a problem later in the spin.And for those who were able to fllow that trail correctly you have something like and additional magnet moving to compensate fr this wrong balance.....Just make sure you seemingly complete the circle of force elimination back to where it started ;)Mumetal...Not, it does not come a cow....And yes, it is a real thing and not a fancy make up free energy freaks created ;)Unlike normal steel or iron Mumetal is extremely good in directing magnetic fields.For example the positioning head of your hard drive uses a pair of magnets on Mumetal plates to make sure the close proximity won't affect the disks storing your data.Now, some people on the net use these features to really fool you badly when it comes to magnets.From magnets in loudspeakers they misuse the term "shielded" to state Mumetal actuall shield the field of a permanent magnet.True is only that Mumetal provides pathway for the magnetic field that is thausands of times easier to follow than air.For example:A strong manget that still creates a noticable field at let's say 3cm distance.A Mumetal of 4cm in diameter placed 1cm apart would make the affects of the magnetic field disappear at 3cm.But not because the field is shielded, because the magnetic field lines now have an easy way to follow.They just "can't be bothered" anymore to go around the plate.In terms of utilising these effects for a V-Gate toy we can get really creative indeed.Some classic V-Gates use a magnet facing north on one side and a magnet facing south on the other side of the magnet bar and drum (left,right).Proving a Mumetal strip between them increases the field strenght on the other side quite a bit.It also allows for a much smaller extension of the field to the sides.And whatever area is covered by Mumetal will not show such a strong field, or none at all.So it would make sense to create a fancy gearbox to rotate a magnet bar.With every set of magnets on the drum the magnet bar makes one rotation.Like a real DV motor so to say.While the magnets attract each other the "active" side is exposed, and when the point comes where they would start to bind the "shielded" side is exposed to the drum.And like with all good mechnical toys we would have to find a way to revers the rotationthree times during one rotation of the drum to "compensate" for the reverse changes with a magnet bar that has a fixed spacing.Pushing instead of lifting....If two mangnets are used for the magnet bar it becomes obvious that a lot of "force" goes sideways instead of being used to actually push the drum.Hence the V shape to fool you the shape actually makes pushing possible to start with.Now read carefully and try to follow so you are not getting fooled by the explanation how to fool other people:For get an even base of understanding I will start where the closed end and the open end of the V meet on the drum, right where the pushing action starts.If the distance of the bar magnets dicreses with the V shape than we get even pushing forces working for us without the problem of reversal half way through the rotation.However we do get insane binding forces right when we get back to the start point of our rotation.Here we flip the magnet bar one full turn while the drum moves from pushing to pulling/binding.The direction of this rotation is important as it needs to match what the drum does.At the point of half rotation of the bar the single magnets move outwards again to be back in the start position once the rotation is complete.Complex mechanics, I know...The good thing is that you can always claim you get the energy for the action from the flipping of the magnets and that of course is not done by the mechanis, the magnet bar is flipped by the interaction of the magnets on the drum when the cycle repeats and drives the mechanics due the the inertia of the drum ;)So, is it possible to make it work without cheating and fooling?Sure it is.All you need to do is close the loop and make sure there is always more energy going into moving the drum than stopping it ;)Of course things would be much easier if you would find a material that actually blocks a magnetic field similar to what an opposing field would do but without the involved repelling forces.Like sunglasses for magnetic fields so to say.

Hello everyone,,I've been enjoying making vegetable broth/chicken stock over the past month or so, and it's made for some filling soups. However, I find that whatever I make soup with overpowers the broth so much that I can't appreciate the flavors of the broth. For example, I like to make a simple Minestrone. The broth tastes fantastic, but the potatoes and green beans I add to the soup leave no room for the broth to stand out. Is that just how soups work?That aside, I'd like to find other simple soup recipes so I can use all this stock I keep making..

I have recently started playing Magic: The Gathering, and was looking to get a Playmat, I would like to make one because I don't want to spend a ton on a mat, I was wondering if anyone had any links to a tutorial on how to make a portable one from scratch for under $5? In case you don't know what they are, here is a link to some ( http://sales.starcitygames.com/category.php?t=a&cat;=5090 ) Thanks.

Hello mates,I am looking for some leads to design and write code for a door lock which can be controlled from a PC running Windows, when the right password (which can be programmed) is entered.So, basically, the PC screen will display a key pad. When you enter the correct password and hit "Enter", a solenoid connected through USB port or connected through Bluetooth or WiFi shall operate. The password shall be programmable.If any of you have links, leads, expertise in making something like this, kindly share..Thanks a lot in advance..

Is there any way I could make a DIY heating element? Or, if not, is there anywhere I get get one on the cheap?

Hey everyone, so I bought two packs of a 5 meter led light for my room. When I tried them individually everything was working perfectly, and because they are multicolored I tried all the lights and it was fine. After that, I connected both pakcs together and when trying to click the white light in the controller for them to work they started to beep all over again, the weird thing is that the rest of the colors work well, except for the white. What could it be, and how could I fix it? Please help me, I'm trying to install it for my daughter for a surprise and I don't want it to be ruined just my that. Thanks

Any ideas. This principle could work along the same lines as an oil hot water heater pumped through a radiator (you know those 300 lb.+ radiators from older houses), but using the bulb in place of the hot water.. If it was portable, that would be great. I could make a nice cover or wood cabinet around it myself. What would be a good metal to line it with that could magnify the heat of a light bulb. Obviously, this would need to be a safe product. Getting a little warm on the outside is not a problem in our home. I mostly just need some idea as to what metal to use to magnify the heat of the bulb. Thank you in advance for any help or ideas.

Hallo Community, ich habe die Idee für einen neuen 3d Drucker, der mit einer Laserdruckerkartusche arbeitet und ein Stützmaterial verwendet, das Streufähig ist.Gerne sende ich mein Dokumentationsentwurf (derzeit rd 13 Seiten) Interessierten zu. Sie trägt folgenden Titel:Die Additive Fertigungfür Metalle und Kunststoffe in Klein- und Mittelständigen Unternehmen für den Werkstattbereich- Aussicht auf ein Neues Verfahren -„ Leonardo Da Vinci und Nikola Tesla waren für mich die größten Erfinder, was würden Sie mit unserem heutigen Wissen für technische Wunder vollbringen?“ Hat jemand interesse sich daran zu beteiligen?

I am planning on build ing IR Heater. would a 6 millimeter IR emmiter with 960 millimeter wavelength work to produce heat? If your not aware with IR heaters then here is a short explanation: A normal heater such as a gas heater heats up the surrounding air, but a IR heater uses infrared waves to heat up surfaces of objects. So instead of heating surrounding air the IR waves heat up surfaces of objects. Also IR waves penetrate the epidermise (top layer of skin). Here is a diagram of what the circuit looks like. The question is would this circuit work? Also are 6millimeter IR emmiter with 960 millimeter wavelength work?

I am biulding a positive air pressure system for my RV. I would like to include an electronic control system that will allow equal pressure inside and out or positive oressure inside. This will NOT allow any dust to enter the vehicle.I was thinking using an altimeter/pressure sensor for measuring internal and external air pressures. My concern is that the outside air flow while travelling will create a negative pressure reading.I also require circuit diagram for sensors cuopled to a 12v air blower.I look forward to comments and ideas.

Hello, I would like to use the bluetooth headset I use with my cell phone for my landline phone at home. There are oodles of instructions out there on how to hack headsets to put them into old phones, I am looking for the opposite. Apparently Jabra used to make something that could have got me started (I believe it was called an A210) but that doesn't seem to be sold any longer. There are some wireless phones out there that incorporate bluetooth, but why add a battery operated wireless phone to a wireless headset - the bluetooth range would give me what I need to stay unencumbered. I have an old cell I could hack apart but I suspect that it would be tricky to get its bluetooth hacked into the analog phone line... Any thoughts? berserk

I have completed the build but require assistance in testing and commissioning, can anyone help me, located in Perth, Western Australia.

While there are a few archival sprays that reduce the degradation and yellowing of paper after the fact, that is not what I'm looking for. I'm curious as to whether I can add something to the pulp in the process of handcrafting my own paper. I've heard that adding calcium carbonate while it's still in a slurry can neutralize the acidity of the lignin in the pulp. If so, couldn't I just throw a few Tums in there? And how much per batch?

I recieved a free, working TV the other day. The only problem with it was the pin from an RCA video cable had broken off inside the socket. I didn't want to spend money on an RF modulator for my DVD Player, so I figured out a pretty solid way of getting the pin out. 1.) Find a needle 2.) On a hard surface, bend the very tip of the needle slightly so that it forms a tiny barb. 3.) heat the tip of the needle with a lighter until it glows red hot. 4.) stick the needle into the plastic core of the broken RCA pin 5.) wait a few seconds for it to cool 6.) pull the needle out, and the broken tip should follow!

Check it out! Constructive criticism please :P

I would like some feedback on my work, please tell me what you think :) thank you!

HI everyone....i am not a professional artist.. just an amateur but I'd like to know your honest feedback and rating  :) thanks

I’ve recently collaborated on a few projects. Although the function works, it doesn't allow the co-author to get any credit. It seems like a simple solution would be to place the project on both author's pages. I see the question has been asked before without a decent response.https://www.instructables.com/topics/Collaboration...https://www.instructables.com/topics/Collaboration...

Hello, I am writing an instructable. Trying to upload a file (.ino, but I also tryied .zip) I have an ": internal server error" message. Photos can be uploaded without problems.Is it me doing something wrong (wrong file format?) or an actual server issue?Thanks

They look like knock off Timberlands or those typical construction work boots. They're not a brand I've heard of (ShoeVibe "Tan Fly Ankle Boot") so I'm having a hard time even finding the manufacturer online and only finding out of stock retail options. It's definitely not leather and it doesn't appear to be faux suede. The description on a site I found said "man made" upper and lining. I'm basically just wondering if I could use black shoe polish to dye them or if I need to actually dig deeper into this material thing and get shoe dye.

i am wondering is there a way of over riding speakers to play my own music or just stop the boom boom coming out the car in front at traffic lights? i remember a broad band am frequency was mentioned once at one place of work but need your knowledge.?

I have inherited a pair of MK trolling motors that have been modified to the point that they doin't work any more. The pevious owner wanted to make them remote control, so he attached a receiver from an RC car and an electric gear motor was attached to the end of the throttle handle.  I think the soft rheostat has been damaged, so now it doesn't work anymore. In the attached picture we have a white soft rheostat with a cable to the controller. I believe the controller is okay. I think I want to attach a new potentiomoter to the cable to run the two motors. Has anyone worked on one before? Please don't ask me to ask Minn Kota. They are less than helpful. The board containing teh ribbon cable is no longer made. And the newer versions have one ribbon cable rather than two.