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Welcome to the Instructables Teachers Hub!

Welcome to the new home for all things Teacher related on Instructables. We hope you'll explore the new features and come back often to find and share projects, inspiration, and classroom resources. As you explore the new Teachers Hub, you'll see it's easy to find projects by subject or grade level and sort them to find all the best and freshest projects.Be sure to spend some time in the new Teacher Forum. It's a great place to connect with fellow teachers and make new friends! You could start by introducing yourself here or finding a topic that interests you and join the conversation there. :)We'll be working to continuously update and support your needs in this new area of the Instructables community, so thank you in advance for your valued feedback and suggestions.

Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM    |  last reply


Welcome to Instructables

On this page you can find links to some of our most frequently asked questions. What is this site? Instructables is a community for people who like to make things. Our community shares what they make in a step-by-step format that we call an Instructable.How do I post an Instructable? We offer a free and easy online class to coach you through posting your first Instructable or you can just wing it and start a new one today. How do I get help improving my Instructable?Ask the community for help in The Clinic. How does my Instructable get featured? The best way to get your projects featured is by following the Featuring Guidelines. Where can I learn more about contests? Our Contest FAQ has all of the information that you need to know about contests. What contests are launching soon? Check out our list of upcoming contests. Are you on social media? Yes! Follow us on Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter. How do I contact Instructables directly? The best way to contact us is through our Contact Page.

Topic by randofo    |  last reply


Textfile much bigger in size than originnally posted

Hi all,I recently posted this Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/USB-to-Serial-TTL...I attached the program as textfile (.txt) since it did not accept the '.jal' extension since the program is actually written in JAL. The strange thing is that if you download this textfile it is 106 Mbyte in size! The original text file is only 8 kbyte. I also uploaded a hexfile (.hex) which does not have this problem.Does anybody know why the Instructable website converts a 8 kbyte textfile to a 106 Mbyte textfile? If I open this file in Notepad++ it opens after quite some time but the contents seems to be OK.Kind regards,Rob

Question by RobBest  


Hillside Trolley

I have a cabin on an island but have many steps to negotiate when carrying (usually heavy) goods, totes, supplies, materials, etc., etc.Looking at making a hillside trolley to transport materials (not necessarily humans) up a 100 foot slope. Has anyone attempted this? Something like in the picture.Thanks.

Question by dwleo    |  last reply


What is the most flammable aerosol spray( that is cheap) for use with a potato gun? Answered

I just need some sort of fuel to use to launch my potato gun?

Question by uniboob tom    |  last reply


Rate My Drawing!

This is a portrait I drew of a friend of mine. It took me about 2-3 hours to complete. Please tell me what you think, thank you :)

Topic by FoxyPenguin94    |  last reply


Re-using Smart TV board from dead TV to make another TV smarter...

Hi, I have just bought LG 47GA6400 TV but I damaged LCD screen (CRD31092201) when I was assembling it.  I couldn't find low cost LCD to replace and I started wondering how I can reuse any remaining parts of this TV. Actually there are many people like me wondering what to do with dead Smart TV. Few years ago you would receive a standard advice – throw it away. But today Smart TV parts are powerful and with your help might be re-used again... Here is an example: My LG TV has mainboard with dual core CPU,  Google TV inside and cool remote controller with QWERTY keyboard and tons of applications.... I wish I could reuse it with other, not so smart LCD TV I have.  The only problem, how to connect Smart TV mainboard to a HDMI.  It doesn't have HDMI out, it has only input ports and one LCD interface cable.... Is it a crazy idea to convert LCD interface back to HDMI or VGA ? Can you create an instructables to show how to do that ?

Topic by alexgontcharov    |  last reply


Make: *** [main.o] Error 1

Hi, I have these problems when upload program on ATmega32 microcontroller message:the file [$(workspace_loc/name/release)/name.hex] for the flash memory does not exist or is not readable error on the console:make: *** [main.o] Error 1Please, help me

Question by ashraf.diab22.ad  


Squishy Silicone (shore hardness 30-10) with 4 ingredients

I owe my findings to the maker of "Oomoo" and community of hobbyists; thank you everybody! I needed squishy silicone, and the random knowledge I found here helped me with the puzzle pieces. The pink rectangle that you see in the pictures has the consistency of a gummy bear (shore hardness ~10). Grab: GE Silicone 1 caulk (or equivalent) Caulk Gun Odorless Mineral Spirits Baby Oil (Mineral oil) Acrylic Paint Sandwich zip baggies (medium large will help you) Cutting tool Mold negative (I use play doh because I only need basic shapes) Try to avoid glass... Don't use glass. A way to measure Tablespoons ADVISORY- your silicone (should) smell of vinegar and your mineral spirits will be potent of fumes.. and flammable. Use ventilation and protect your eyes. Your only saving grace is the baby oil scent. Okay. Grab the (new) silicone caulk and cut the whole pointy tip off of the tube, making a flush cylinder. Load that bad boy in the gun. Open a plastic baggie, and fill it with: 2 tbsp Mineral Spirits 1 tbsp Baby Oil (Mineral oil) Then shoot one full shot of silicone directly into the oily puddle of liquid. Close the baggie, leaving a little air. Find a way to mix it. I lay the bag on a smooth table and repeatedly iron the baggie with my pinky. You have 20+ minutes pot time, so be thorough. You should now have a clear 'spit' like liquid that runs, similar the two liquids you just mixed. Open the bag. Add: 1 drop acrylic/oil paint Close it, and repeat the mixing until your color is even throughout the liquid. Turn your baggie sideways and cut a small triangle from one of the bottom corners. Carefully tilt the bag like an icing baster and pour the silicone into your mold negative. This method is clean and offers control. You can squeeze ALL of your mix into the pour, as well as combat air bubbles. Don't touch it for 3 hours. Better yet, leave it for three days. It takes this long for the shrinkage to happen. You can avoid shrinkage if you use xylene instead of mineral spirits, but it is not available to me. The color will become opaque in this time as well. You now have very squishy silicone. I have tried many other pours and I can't manage to get the cured squishy consistency without mixing a liquid to start. A goop is preferable to me because I can use it a caulk, still, allowing me to 'draw' silicone positives. To achieve a shore hardness of ~30 Repeat the steps above, but now use: 1 tbsp Mineral Spirits 1 tbsp Baby Oil (mineral spirits) This will have an initially 'goopier' mix, and you will have similar pot/cure time, but no shrinkage. It will be oily until you repeatedly dry it. The picture of four silicone squares illustrates my last advice. Each mix has only one drop of the same pink acrylic paint. You may want to experiment with how much color you want. Far Left: the gummy bear mix 2:1 softest Inner Left: the hardness 30 mix 1:1 Inner Right: FAILURE did not cure (1/2 tbsp baby oil, 1tbsp mineral spirits) Far Right: FAILURE did not cure (2 tbsp baby oil, 1 tbsp mineral spirits) toughest The two squares on the right could have been made with just silicone, mineral spirits and NO baby oil. Maybe, add ~3 drops of glycerin and I could have had the same hardness AND a thurough cure, but I want the squishy. Hopefully this helps.

Topic by VRPlanesWalker  


Sanding wood smooth without losing rustic saw marks

I've searched for an answer but can't find one. Hoping someone can help me out with this. I recently picked up some old wood boards, about 3" thick, 4' long, and a foot wide. They're fairly old and have that warm weathered look of old raw wood. On one side you can see the nice circular saw marks from when they were milled. They're also very splintery, and I got plenty of splinters when I moved them. My goal: preserve their rustic beauty while making them into usable wood for furniture. I want the surface smooth enough that splinters aren't an issue. How can I sand the boards so they are smoother a micro level, but don't lose the beautiful saw marks? Ideally I'd keep that weathered color, but I suspect I'll lose at least some of that due to sanding and will have to fake it with stain. Thanks a ton for any help! Josh

Topic by joshme    |  last reply


List of Upcoming Contests (updated 12/16/19)

Hello everyone! Below is a partial list of the 2020 contest calendar. Keep in mind that this list is subject to change and contests will continue to be added throughout the year. The contests below are already in planning, and I've left off ones that we're still trying to decide on. The months indicate when the contests will be launching. All contests will launch near the beginning of each month. Keep in mind that the list below is not set in stone. All contests and dates are subject to change!JanuaryCoffee Speed ChallengeKids Solving Problems Contest Makey Makey Contest Wearables Contest Raspberry Pi Contest Fix It Contest Warm and Fuzzy Challenge Snow Challenge Magnets ChallengeFebruaryRope & String Speed ChallengeAfter School Challenge Meat Free Meals Challenge Crazy 4 Coding Challenge Fiber Arts Contest Heart Contest Paper Contest Trash to Treasure ContestMarchWire Speed ChallengeStorytelling ChallengePCB "badge" ChallengeSpring Cleaning ContestSoft Robots Contest3D Printed ContestWoodworking ContestAprilRubber Band Speed ChallengeIndoor Plants ChallengeSpace ChallengeLeather ChallengeTea ChallengeCars and Motor Vehicles ContestArduino ContestFirst Time Authors Contest *All contests and dates are subject to change. Please leave suggestions for prizes here. You can also leave suggestions about contests here. Have a contest question? Check the Contest FAQ!

Topic by randofo    |  last reply


Smallest lower power LED light project

I want to try to put two LED lights on my glasses, the idea would be to write some software to turn it on and of and notify about stuff usps trackingI was wondering what would be the smallest project possible Is there any resource where people just induced a current to light a small led maybe? showbox

Topic by stevejock1    |  last reply


What projects could I do with an industrial electric motor (1 to 7.5 HP)? Answered

My local Habitat for Humanity ReStore has a bunch of used Baldor Brand AC motors for $40. Power ranges from 1HP to 7.5 HP. It seems like a good deal since these things retail for a couple of hundred. I was wondering what I could use one of these for. Also, could I just wire one of these things up to a wall outlet to make it run, or would I need some kind of controller. What considerations should I take in picking which motor to buy? power? 3 phase vs 1 phase? etc?

Question by waltbosz    |  last reply


What is this tool for?

Can anyone tell me what this tool is for?   I came across it all rusted and thought it was some type of pliers or cutter. After I cleaned it up I could tell it was probably neither. What I thought was a plier jaw is actually one piece and does not close and what i thought maybe the cutting blade, actually had lines and numbers, like a ruler. The one small screw that the spring is attached to, will allow you to adjust how far the jaw/cutter will close and the other screw, when loosened a bit allows you to slide the little metal 'arm' in or out, like a measuring template. It has some fancy designs on the handles as you can see and the only marking says "Made in Western Germany".

Question by millsy22    |  last reply


3D printed vortex tube for spot cooling

These tubes are available as industrial supplies by the dozen but quite costly.Tried a few designs available on the net but either they are next to impossible to print using FDM or fail to provide any significant temperature difference.Just to be clear: If amient air temp is 25°C then I would like to get below zero on the cold end.And well, I would like to be able to salvage a small fridge compressor with considerably less air flow than a shop compressor.Now to the problem(s) I face:1: The temp on the cold end is affected by both the length of the tube and by how much air can escape on the hot side.Makes finding a suitable diameter and length quite tricky if you don't have fancy simulation software at your disposal :(2: The standard cylindrical design for the "engine" is not really that efficient :(To make them work a lot of pressure is required, usually they won't do anything below 85PSI and most require about as much air volume as a little air grinder.3: 3D printed parts with complex insides are a true pain to clean, seal and make sturdy enough to last more than a few minutes under these conditions.I am currently experimenting with PETG as it is a bit more temp resistant and stronger.My understanding of these vortex tubes is that the outer vortex, created by the engine, travels up the tube.At the outlet valve the vortext is split so that the fastest and hottest air escapes while the colder air is directed dow, through the outer vortex and at a significantly lower speed for the rotation.Scientists can't really agree on the directions and spin of the inner and outer vortex :(My theory is that the hot air is created by a pressure increase towards the end of the tube.As this also expands the air, the inner vortex will be choked off so to say.Only option for it is to go through and by doing so loosing a lot of pressure on the exit - the stream cools down.The circulation around the vortex spin however means that speeds of well over the speed of sound are reached.I can only assume that at this speed there will also be some energy exchange happening based on the static electricity created where the two stream "rub" against each other.So far only models with a finely sanded inner tube actually performed at all.Will one day have to try using a thick plastic straw as a liner...Questions:1. Do you think a complex, conical nozzle is required?The commercial ones all use them.However I tend to think that a slotted approach might be better.Instead of adjusting the gap of the needle valve two half cylinders with slots can create a finely adjustable outlet.Way easier to desing if all parts shall be printable....2. If 1 is not a a real requirement:How to best design the slots for the correct air flow??In the direction of the rotation?Straight?Or even against the rotation so the air will be forced out onlyby the pressure but not by direction?3. Is there any easy workaround for Sketchup that would allow me to create sphere with the required channels along the inner wall to create a fast vortex?I can do screw, nut and bolts, a sphere is no problem either.But I can't seem to find a way to comine both techniques so they work on the inside of a sphere :(Why a sphere you wonder? ;)I like harmony for these things a an egg or a sphere is way more harmonic than a cylinder.On top of that it would allow to create a vortex to my specs instead of chance.Ideally the "threads" would get a smaller pitch with every turn.This forces the airstream to not olny increase in speed (decreasing diameter) but also to be "compressed" before even entering the tube section.The inner stream would pass through a tube inside this sphere, after passing through the tiny gap the upgoing airstream created.My hope is that such a design would allow for the low flow rates of a fridge compressor while being quite small in size as well.Anyone with good ideas or tips?

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Where can I find soldering instructions for this DIY project?

I bought this kit a year ago. I sat down yesterday to try and build it, but then realized that there are some parts that I'm not sure where or how they go. This kit never came with an instruction sheet. I have a photo showing all the parts and a photo showing what it's supposed to look like when done. I've been searching the net for hours and can't find any instructions. Can anyone help me?

Question by magicka    |  last reply


How to connect small toy motor to solar panel?

I've a school project to submit and the thing I'm making involves connecting a small toy motor that I salvaged,  to a solar panel from the same toy (pictures attached) . They came attached to gether but I accidentally got them to separate. The wire was joined (?) with panel by a glue and that was the one that got lose. I can't seem to get the circuit to close now. I only tried holding it in place by hand though. Before I use insulation tape, I need to confirm. Is there anything I'm missing? I live in an arid place with hardly any clouds, so sunlight is not a problem.

Question by zaekr    |  last reply


Food Grade epoxy for making bongs, water pipe? Answered

Hello, Im thinking about trying to make a bong or water pipe out of epoxy resin, what kind of food grade resin should I use? I cant find answer anywhere as it should be quite safe and should not give any additional taste? FOR TOBACCO & LEGAL USE ONLY!

Question by ArnasL    |  last reply


programming a stealth USB caps locker problems? Answered

I have a problem programming my stealth USB caps locker (link)  the PCB is ready, the components soldered on, and ive made connections to my ghetto programmer. now, i opened programmers notepad and wanted to program it, but now it just gives a whole load of errors: > "make.exe" program set -e; avr-gcc -MM -mmcu=attiny45 -I. -g -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=main.lst  -std=gnu99 main.c \     | sed 's,\(.*\)\.o[ :]*,\1.o \1.d : ,g' > main.d; \     [ -s main.d ] || rm -f main.d main.c:19:20: error: usbdrv.h: No such file or directory main.c:20:21: error: oddebug.h: No such file or directory Compiling: main.c avr-gcc -c -mmcu=attiny45 -I. -g -Os -funsigned-char -funsigned-bitfields -fpack-struct -fshort-enums -Wall -Wstrict-prototypes -Wa,-adhlns=main.lst  -std=gnu99 main.c -o main.o In file included from main.c:16: c:/winavr-20090313/lib/gcc/../../avr/include/util/delay.h:85:3: warning: #warning "F_CPU not defined for " main.c:19:20: error: usbdrv.h: No such file or directory main.c:20:21: error: oddebug.h: No such file or directory main.c:25: error: expected '=', ',', ';', 'asm' or '__attribute__' before 'reportBuffer' main.c:26: error: expected '=', ',', ';', 'asm' or '__attribute__' before 'idleRate' main.c:27: error: expected '=', ',', ';', 'asm' or '__attribute__' before 'reportCount' main.c:33: error: 'USB_CFG_HID_REPORT_DESCRIPTOR_LENGTH' undeclared here (not in a function) main.c: In function 'buildReport': main.c:65: error: 'uchar' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:65: error: (Each undeclared identifier is reported only once main.c:65: error: for each function it appears in.) main.c:65: error: expected ';' before 'key' main.c:68: error: 'reportCount' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:69: error: 'key' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:73: error: 'reportBuffer' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c: In function 'timerPoll': main.c:87: error: 'reportCount' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c: At top level: main.c:104: error: expected '=', ',', ';', 'asm' or '__attribute__' before 'usbFunctionSetup' main.c: In function 'calibrateOscillator': main.c:143: error: 'uchar' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:143: error: expected ';' before 'step' main.c:144: error: expected ';' before 'trialValue' main.c:149: error: 'trialValue' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:149: error: 'step' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:150: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbMeasureFrameLength' main.c:157: error: 'optimumValue' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c: In function 'main': main.c:193: error: 'uchar' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:193: error: expected ';' before 'i' main.c:194: error: expected ';' before 'calibrationValue' main.c:196: error: 'calibrationValue' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:200: warning: implicit declaration of function 'odDebugInit' main.c:201: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbDeviceDisconnect' main.c:202: error: 'i' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:205: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbDeviceConnect' main.c:211: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbInit' main.c:215: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbPoll' main.c:222: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbInterruptIsReady' main.c:222: error: 'reportCount' undeclared (first use in this function) main.c:224: warning: implicit declaration of function 'usbSetInterrupt' main.c:224: error: 'reportBuffer' undeclared (first use in this function) make.exe: *** [main.o] Error 1 > Process Exit Code: 2 > Time Taken: 00:03 maybe its this: ""Download capslocker.hex and use AVR Studio or a standalone programming tool to write into the ATTiny45 Flash. Oh, you'll also need to select the fuse for PLL/1k clock source." thats what the maker of this thingie said, but what is the fuse for PLL/1k clock source? could it be that? when i use the .hex file, i get about the same. whats the problem? i didnt change anything.

Question by godofal    |  last reply


I have an odd question about PVC glue? Answered

Hello my question is why dose the glue spin when it is dripped in water?  I work for a small plumbing and sewer company and I have noticed that every time the glue drips in a puddle it spins on the surface. It is pretty neat and I was curious as to why it dose that. 

Question by vince 09    |  last reply


How to hack into g-mail accounts?

YO!!!!! I need to know how to get into g-mail accounts i heard there is a way i just don't know that way please help thanks!

Question by pinkpup42    |  last reply


How do you keep deer out of your garden without a fence? Answered

I just planted a small victory garden in my backyard. The yard is mostly a steep hill, and the patch shown is just about the largest, flattest part. I planted cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, artichokes, and spinach. A few days later, everything but the artichokes has been munched, and there are hoof-prints all over. So, knowing I don't want to build a huge fence for a small hobby-level garden, how should I keep deer out?I live in a fairly urban Oakland, CA neighborhood, so despite what one might think -- and what I might enjoy --, hunting the deer is out. I read that human hair works as a repellent, but I don't need a hair cut anytime soon. Among other ideas, Country Wisdom and Know How suggests that I put a 4-foot barrier of chicken wire on the ground around the garden. Apparently, deer don't like to walk on chicken wire. Has anyone tried putting chicken wire on the ground? They also suggest tying a dog up in the yard near the garden, but I'm more inclined to the chicken wire idea.

Question by ewilhelm    |  last reply



Esp32 and ov7670 camera

Hi there does any one know how to connect a ov7670 camera onto an esp32 dev module?I got them here.( https://www.pishop.co.za/store/camera-module-ov76... )( https://www.pishop.co.za/store/geekcreit-esp32-de... )

Question by BOY MECHANIC  


Emergency heating.

Can you use a charcoal BBQ grill as an emergency heater for inside of a home if you were using wood as the fuel?How and what would be the safest way to do so?

Question by RonF70    |  last reply


Electric bike self powered no battery

I have a hub motor 1000 watt for bicycle, I would like a hub generator that would power the motor hub with out a battery, can anyone tell me how I can get or make something like this, or ,,it takes a 48 volt battery, can I use a 12 volt battery and step up transformer , or 12 volt car generator and step up transformer, or dynamo hub and step up transformer , or would it only raise the voltage and not amps

Topic by Lylecpitts    |  last reply


Glue need 2 glue silicone sheet to glass

Hi , I bought 7" square silicone flat pot holders and I want to glue them to the bottom of my Wide mouth gallon sized glass jars to protect them from breaking easilyWhat kind of glue can I use? A glue that will not seep thru the glass.. polluting my water I am using the jars for holding distilled water Thank you 4 your assistance

Question by gerimac    |  last reply


Electronics,help,feedback,community $52

How to play and rewind a craig 212 cassette player from the 70's

Topic by MaryS479    |  last reply


What is this tool?

I have no clue what this is

Question by andrefahim11702    |  last reply


how do i make prosthetic finger tips so i can play my guitar again?

I chopped off the tip of my finger with a mower....ouch, now im two months in and i still cant play chords on my guitar. if i super glue leather to it i can play my bass. i have also used banjo picks with band aids wraped around them but these get in the way when i play chords. i cut off about half an inch from my ring finger and nipped my middle finger on my fret hand. any help would be great thanks. D.J. ps the pics are from a week out of surgery

Question by djloney    |  last reply


Rate my drawing

Gandalf

Topic by darrendinnegan    |  last reply


Homemade hydro excavator?

I recently stumbled onto a website that sold a special hose and powerhead that allowed a typical pressure washer to be used as a sewer jetter (unclogging sewer lines).  I was blown away.  So simple.  Pure genius. Then it occurred to me:   A standard pressure washer could be used as part of homemade hydro excavator -- a digging tool that liquefies soil and removes it with a vacuum.  These machines can excavate around pipes without damage and make surgical-style incisions in the earth. Very precise. Very fast.  Factory made hydro excavators are *very* expensive and they typically rent for $350.00+ per day.   To turn a pressure washer into a hydro excavator, you'd need an economical homebuilt vacuum tank to suck up the liquefied soil and a vacuum hose attachment for the wand.  The excavated liquefied soil is very heavy -- so weight considerations and spoil removal are engineering issues to work on. So ..... anyone know how to build an economical vacuum tank?  

Topic by eric1967    |  last reply


Fishing the traditional way

A while ago I had a very bad day of fishing in terms of catching something for my frying pan or freezer.Same story for the old bloke sitting a few meters away from me.So we decided to pass some time with useless chats about our previous record fish we caught.While the old bloke changed bait I noticed that he did not have a hook at the end of the line.....What is that contraption and how do you catch fish with it?Old bloke laughed and said he goes hunting a lot too and always keeps the antlers from deer and such.Instead of a hook he used a round and pointy bar with a little notch slightly off the middle.Couldn't figure out how this possibly could hook a fish, so got a bigger laugh for it this time :("Make a loose fist, put it in and then pull on the line." he said and I was dumb enough to assume it would not work :(Figure it out by getting two bleeding pricks...Fish swallows the "stick" inside the bait and one there is some pull one pointy end will always get stuck.The other moves until there is no room to move anymore and the fish is spiked up for good.Only downside is that one you get a fish too big it might not grab - bad luck then LOLThis approach instead of steel hooks reminded me of the bamboo fishing poles my grandfather used to make.Be it for eel, trout, carp or even from the boat for pollock and sardine - he loved his bamboo.Even made me my fisrt fly fishing rod from a piece of bamboo :)The old guy however had more than hand made rods or horn needles as hooks.When his hands were still as good as his eyes he even made flies from these horn sticks!He explained the process to me but I never had the patience for normal flies and doing this with horn sticks and estimating how big the biggest fish might be while making sure it is neither too heavy nor fails to float...What I really liked about this otherwise wasted fishing day was the stories I got from the old man."You don't need fancy or oversensitive gear to fish, a safety pin and some packing coad do just fine if you are hungry!"Best story was how he caught a 2m gummy shark with a hand line meant to catch some sardines for bait.I could really his 3 hour struggle to get the thing on board LOLWhat are your most successfull old school or just plain weird catches with something a real sports fisherman would not even touch to cast?

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Diy Roulette Wheel?

I am wondering if anybody here has the knowledge on how to construct a roulette wheel? The internet has so far proven very un-helpful on this topic.  I want to make a wooden tabletop wheel with a ball, not a vertical one with an arrow.

Topic by V1g1lante    |  last reply


What kinds of contests do YOU want to see on Instructables?

Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :DIs there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended?We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests. P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :)Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?

Topic by randofo    |  last reply


I can't post a comment - get message " oops something went wrong!"

I logged in and out - no change. Is is me?

Question by chefspenser    |  last reply


Resistor power rating increase in parallel?

Let's say I need to have a resistor in a circuit rated for 10 Watts. If I had two resistors rated for 5 W, could I wire them in parallel to make the equivalent power rating 10 W? I know my resistance will be different but I'm not sure how the power rating would differ.

Question by ishmal1103    |  last reply


Combine (relay?) multiple cellphone batteries for one large powerbank

I rarely trade my previous primary mobile devices when upgrading; as a result, my cache of obsolete phones with perfectly useable batteries is a dozen, give or take. I'm sure not many, if any, tinkerers, modders, hobbyists, etc., would recommend such a project, as these batteries can be unforgivably volatile if used any way other than their manufacturer's suggest, and sometimes even then. So let's assume we've all been warned; no need to reply "don't...". that being said, has anyone here ever attempted anything like this, or know, or heard of someone who has? if so, links would be much appreciated.fyi, i ask because i'm considering trying to mod an old rc car into a wifi/app controlled car, and repurposing as much of my neglected junk as i can to do this, would be soo satisfying.Thanks!

Question by rays-nalley    |  last reply


Need Help In Programming ESP8266 NodeMCU Microcontroller With Single Web Server And Multiple Clients

I have made some hardware arrangement with 3D Printed Stuff, but I'm not good at programming.Hence Need help in complete programming Budget is 100$ Paid via paypal.ContactEmail - nimishmack@gmail.comskype - nimishmackWhatsapp - +917588446633

Topic by NimisH_MacK  


Linknode R4

I need to reset my linknode R4 And I do not see how to do it from the application I have been told that deleting the device from the app achieves the result but in the app I do not see how to delete it

Question by fuerzapeter  


Designing a working Ranque-hilsch Vortex tube to be 3D printable or machinable on a lathe

I have looked far and wide in the attempt to fully understand how these tubes actually work.Nothing online really satisfies me fully so I made my own theories ;)I won't bother you with them tough as the foucs is on giving some tips on designing these tubes.Lets start with the main components as you find them in petents and some of the online videos and tutorials:1. The tube.It does not seem to do much but it is a very important part of the design.The diameter needs to be correct for the pressure and air flow rate so the up and down vortex can form properly on the inside.The lengh is important as well because you won't the hot end outlet right where the tube is hottest.Too long and you waste more than you use, too short and you won't get a decent temp difference.2. The chamber, rotation box, inlet box or whatever you wanna call the thick bit where the air goes in that holds all parts together.Most designs, even commercial ones, seem to go dirt simple here.Inlet on the side so the air starts spinning around on the inner wall.And that's about it as it really is nothing but a simple cylinder.However, the free space and internal design of the components affect the performance of this chamber.3. The engine, diffusor or cold end tube.This little gadget, in commercail tubes, serves a dual purpose.Firstly I provides small inlets to generate several vortex stream for the tube.Secondly I provides the cold end outlet nozzle.Both the nozzle and the inlets are important for the workings.Depending on their dimensions you need a higher or lower airflow and get a higher or lower temp difference.With just these three bits you see that a lot of variables are involved.I simulated most of my parts, but with the lack of proper software this happened in the empty void between my ears ;)Needless to say I learned a lot of ways to design fance looking tubes with no real function LOLIf you use some aluminium tubing for the actual tube and machined parts you have an advantage over 3D printed plastic parts.Not just in terms of safety but also in terms of actually measuring the temp of the tube.Blessed are those who have a heat vision camera :(Either way, once you start the design there will be a lot of errors you would need address later - and they waste time and material.Let me share my thoughts on how designed my first working tube:Compressor delivers a certain pressure and flow rate.I made something to test how different diameter holes as a substitude for tubes would affect the air pressure and flow.Once I had a diameter that would not drain the compressor and kept a stable pressure I used this to calculate inlet and orifice sizes.Goal was to have the same overall cut area as for what worked on the compressor test.For example if a 10mm hole works fine than a first guesstimate for 5 inlets would be a 2mm diameter.Usually slightly more as interal friction and such create more pressure in the system.So far for the inlets and vortex creating parts - what about clearances??Imagine you have a short cylindrical space where the tube shall be mounted to.Your inlets need to have enough free space to allow for the air to spin around the center.Key is to have the clearance tight enough to keep a high pressure in this area.Imagine the 5 2mm holes from the above example providing the air flow.A 1mm gap would mean insane pressures that most likely will limit performance.On the other side a 8mm gap will cause a massive pressure drop and results in the vortext from the inlets to get chaotic.Hint:If you blow compressed air through the housing with the engine inside but no tube mounted and just a backing plate to close it then you should hear a distinct sound.If it sounds just like air escaping through some holes you got it wrong :(However, if start screaming like mad when the pressure goes up it means you created a quite powerful vortex ;)But don't confuse the sound of small holes with something that almost sounds like a siren ;)A tube lenght of around 15cm seems to work fine for most applications.However it makes sense to check the tube temp to make sure the lenght is set to the hottest part of it.If in doubt, try it out ;)You designed it so well, it makes all the right noises but it won't cool or get hot....I had this problem a lot in my early days.An old patent however gave the clue that you won't find that easy.On the hot end outlet you can use a simple cone to limit what comes out of the tube.Either with fancy internal outlets or just outer casing with slots.Not much different to what you find online.What you might miss though is the diffusor or vortex terminator.You see, the upgoing vortex is extremely fast in it's rotation.If it hits the outlet cone like this then most of the air will be forced out and the inner vortex won't form at all.A star like insert at the end of the tube will cause the outer vortex to become a straight upward stream.Not all of the air will be able to fllow this route, so the rest is refected and creates the inner vortex.A tiny detail that often gets lost it seems.

Topic by Downunder35m  


Iris mechanism

Hi everybody, I'm a complete newbie and I wanted to make something for a project of mine that involves an iris mechanism and a stage that comes up through the opening. I've tried to search for a unification of the both, but can't seem to find any. Can you give me some pointers as to how to incorporate the two mechanisms in one apparatus? Thank's a lot guys

Topic by rsyauta  


Looking for a board with Bluetooth, HID, USB and battery charging capabilities

Hi all,I am a newbie and as a first project i would like to build a Bluetooth game pad.It would have 2 buttons and Bluetooth a battery to charge and a USB charger input.I saw in the video below how to do it with Bluefruit EZ-Key but this board is out of stock.Can you recommend on a board with same functions?

Question by sharelhun    |  last reply


Pulse charging to constant flow

So i had to replace the chargercable on our babycall and used a female usb port. The adapter uses 6 volts to charge the device but if i wanted to use a 5v portable charger, how can i make the current flow instead of pulsating? Capacitor? And what value?

Question by josvol81    |  last reply


HOW CAN I FIX A CELL PHONE THAT WENT SWIMING IN SALT WATER.?

Phone fell into the sea

Question    |  last reply


Install of MS Office 2016 by BizOfTech

Hi.BizOfTech seems to have great instructions for the free download of MS Office 2016 onto Mach. Has anyone tried it and is it free of malware? How can I find this out?Thank you.MC001https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Install-Microsoft-Office-2016-For-Mac-For-F/#discuss

Question by mc001    |  last reply


How do I thin out 2-part epoxy?

I'm wanting to make some micarta-like material, using two-part epoxy and paper. I've done a test run, and the material was rigid after it had cured for a few days, but didn't cut like I hoped it would, because the epoxy didn't penetrate the paper. Part of the issue was that the paper was coated, but I'd also like to thin out the epoxy some so that it will soak into the paper better. I'm inspired in this endeavor by these two instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-homemade-micarta/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Mokume-Kireji-DIY-Woodgrain-Composites/ The epoxy I'm using is 3M Scotch-Weld DP-190. The label says it contains epoxy resin, polymeric diamine, kaolin, and carbon black. The complete MSDS is here. This is what I'm using, because it's what I have. Got a case of these two-tube dispensers cheap at a yard sale. :-) So, what can I use to make this more liquid? Right now the consistency is a little bit thicker than honey. It doesn't spread out when applied to paper, and doesn't soak in at all. My limited knowledge suggests that toluene, listed on the MSDS, might work, but I'm hoping for something a bit less volatile. I'm aware that whatever I do is likely to extend the curing time, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Question by yoyology    |  last reply


Can anyone help me troubleshoot a non-responsive RGB SMD5050 LED strip which keeps flashing rapidly in blue colour?

I have recently bought a 5m strip of RGB SMD5050 300LED strip together with a 12v controller and remote control. I have cut and soldered this LED strip into numerous small parts, as suitable for my application (as additional car lights). However on powering up this LED strip, its colour is blue which keeps flashing at a fast rate (almost a strobe-like effect). This keeps going on, not responding to the commands on the remote control. Since this is my first time working with LEDs, I am unable to troubleshoot this problem. Would anyone be able to guide me please?

Question by darmic    |  last reply


Make use of iCamera 1000 units?

I have 3 "iCamera 1000" camera units laying around. I do not have the rest of the security system they are designed to function with, but there has to be some way to make use of them and have some fun. I have lots of cat 6 cable and RJ45 connectors to custom make a cable if anyone has the expertise to figure out how to make use of these. Before posting here, I searched and searched here and on Google but only found information regarding the "normal" application of these cameras..... I was hoping for something more outside the box which is why I am here. I included a front/back picture. Thanks for any ideas!!

Topic by PigWhistle    |  last reply


Student film problem

I've got a project I'm working on for an upcoming film where I'd like to be able to control the individual LEDs in a group of LED arrays via a usb hook up to an iBook. As I see it, this should be ridiculously difficult and time consuming. But if anyone knows a simple way to do it or some product that already exists, I'd love to find out. Thanks!

Topic by defunkedpolymath    |  last reply