Search for 300W in Topics


can I run 300w speakers on a 85w stereo?

I got four 300w speakers I want to hook up to my 85w stereo would that blow it up 

Question by BryceM25    |  last reply



could you connect a 300w mini audio amplifier directly to a motorcycle battery?

The amp is 12v and so is the battery but I really don't know if it would be safe or even work, i have no idea about electrical stuff so any advice would be educational, cheers

Question by chrisretard90    |  last reply


How can I connect three 100w lamps to a 300w led driver?

Hello my friend, Could you explain if is possible to connect 3x lamps of 100w to 300w led driver? The led driver specification was: constant current, 27-36v, 9A. The lights: 1x, 27-30v, 3.5A, and 2x, 30-36, 3A. So, can I connect lamps with differents voltages to this dirver? If not, is it possible if the voltage of these lamps are the same? What can I do in this situation? what you sugest? Thanks

Question by logoaki    |  last reply


Tesla coil configuration. Audio amplifier power supply?

If I am to use an audio amplifier as a power supply for a Tesla coil could I do without a spark gap and primary capacitor? I will be operating the coil within the audible spectrum (1Hz - 20KHz) so an amplifier fits the bill. It's a 2 channel magnetic field power amplifier rated for 750W per channel. That's 750RMS not 750IFL. (If lightning strikes) The current would flow as follows: Power Amp> 4ohm Load> NST 5000v 60ma> RF Choke> Primary Coil> Secondary Coil 1. Do I need a capacitor bank between the RFC and the primary? 2. Can a few feet of 28AWG galvanized steel wire act as a reliable resistor for the 300W current? What about 750W? If not, what can I substitute? 3. Can the amp hold together? I need it in one piece. Please point out the flaws. Thank you

Question by imMrDude  



How do I connect a car amplifier? Answered

I have a "300W" (actually 30W) mini amplifier. It has black, red and yellow wires for power.How do I connect it?

Question by slovenija    |  last reply


How can my soundbar be rated at 300W-peak/150W-RMS, amp IC only goes 78W, 5 drivers total 60W?!?

Pyle PSBV200BT. Audio amp IC is STA540. Speakers and marked ratings: Two tweeters @ 10W, 4 Ohm; two midrange @ 5W , 8 Ohm; and one sub-woofer @ 30W, 8 Ohms. PS is 18VAC@2.5A. Am I missing something. The numbers seem so wrong that I must be overlooking something significant, not just overseas marketing greed. The Pyle sounds ok, but my 17-year-old 100W Creative 5.1 PC speakers blow it away.

Question by MarioL111  


Can I use ups by charging it via a 45w solar panel I made Answered

Ups is a 300w with 7amph battery and it is 110v charging can I use regular 12v 4.5amp dc? and disconnect the charger because it is 110 but I will be using in 220v country?

Question by celalboz    |  last reply


Building a cooler radio. What should I use for a power source?

Building a cooler radio using a motorcycle 300w amp with ipod, marine speakers, and old coleman cooler. What should I use for a power source? Thinking about a 12V rechargeable battery. Are there better solutions to supply power?

Question    |  last reply


hi people i want to connect 2 dvc 10" starsound 1500watt to a 300w monoblock amp can someone please advice me.

I have 2 dvc starsound 10" 1500w each and a 3500w monoblock amp how do i connect them to get maximine power and bass.

Question by jayo    |  last reply


Can LEDs be wired up to replace 12 VAC garden light bulbs?

How do I put them together? Some are wedge base and others are bi-pins. Can they be made water proof? Because they use less energy, can I string more of them using the same 300w transformer?

Question by yopauly    |  last reply


What should I add to my gaming pc? Answered

Well these are the specs of my gaming pc so far: Ram: 2GB ddr2 Graphics card: ATI display adapter (0x954F) Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GH Hard drive: 80 GB Powersupply: 300W Is this type of pc really considered a  gaming pc? Please tell me! Thanks!

Question by solarblade90    |  last reply


Test meter for wind turbine output

Is there an inexpensive meter I can hook up to my 300W 12VDC wind turbine ?I want to see the output power in watts increase as it spins faster. I know it needs a load to test that.I know I can use 1 or more 12v bulbs to see them get brights. But I'd like to see the output in watts.Thanks

Question by maxrep99    |  last reply


More volts to electric bike- safe? Answered

Got an older brushless hub motor + charger at a street sale: 36 V, 240 W. No controller. Would it be safe to increase the voltage to, lets say, 48 V, or even 60 V; or would it fry? (controller has to yet be made). I assume the power would increase to 300W or 360 W. My 12 V cordless drill has no probem dealing with 18 V, that's why I came up with this question...

Question by BobS    |  last reply


48 " Plasma screen, possible use for project?

Since the plasma TV I found in a dumpster this month does not work (missing the power supply board), I took the boards apart for parts. Now I arrived at the screen. To my surprise it was no LCD, but a plasma screen.  As I understand, every pixel has 3 miniature fluorescent tubes in it. Would it be possible to use /convert as a light fixture? (some specs: V=5.25 V, Va= 65V,   Vs=  125V,   max 300W when white)

Question by BobS    |  last reply


Slowing a motor

I have a 4 Watt mains powered motor that currently spins at 1.6-1.9RPM. I need to find some way of slowing it to maybe 1 revolution every 10 minutes. It's all sealed in a metal case and connected to the mains by a standard plug. I really need to find a way to do this without breaking it apart stuff as it may need a safety test later, I looked at dimmer switches as they essentially limit the voltage and are a max of 300w. Like this - http://www.jpgelectronics.com/products.asp?partno=350.109 I realise that they are made for lights but it's a similar principle and is only about £6. Would this work? Are there other options if I don't want to break into the motor housing or wiring? Thanks.

Topic by happysnail    |  last reply


Sine wave power inverter ac output fluctuate between 210~230V. Any idea what is going wrong?

Recently build 300w sine wave inverter. First power on without heatsink it fried off push pull mosfet. Replace mosfet and attached heat sink, repower blown fuse and output mosfet shorting. Replace fuse and mosfet, power up again. Resulting with fluctuating output between 210VAC to 230VAC. Check secondary dc voltage also fluctuated. Any idea what was went wrong. Use KA7500 as input driver and egs002 as output driver. Reference - please refer https://www.instructables.com/id/Ectable-PCB-With-Eagle/ Thanks in advance.

Question by GearUp    |  last reply


What best rated W for speakers to go with new kenwood dpx-5210u 50Wx4 stereo?

Hi all im new to this activity. i have a chevy optra 2008 with stock speakers and stereo (reciever). the sound is good but i wanted more so my friends suggested i go for a stereo but now that i got it, when i set it to max volume the sound isnt clear and breaking so i think the problem in the car speakers? im planning to change them 4 for another 4 ones, will a 300W rated speaker be good? i really dont know but what W should i go for? and do i need an amplifier or not? i really dont want to i can only afford to get new speakers if they make a better sound with the stereo.

Question by mkhaled4    |  last reply


Using a Benchtop PSU to heat wires?

I modified a 300W ATX power supply that I got for $1 the other day to use as a benchtop power source, much the same way the people who have posted Instructables for this have done.  I want to do some experimenting heating up wires, but I don't want to harm the PSU.  I believe it has built-in short circuit protection, but I want to be safe anyways.  I think that if I put in a high-wattage resistor in parallel with the heating wire, that might save the PSU.  If I did this, what value resistor (ballpark range) would I need so that power would flow through the wire until it heated up too much (thus increasing resistance across it), causing the power to go through the resistor instead?

Question by Radioactive_Legos    |  last reply


Help with powering chained LED strips?

It's been about 30 years since I had any formal training in wiring circuits, so excuse my ignorance.   I am trying to chain a couple of addressable LED strips.   The strips have the following requirements: Power consumption: 10W/M Length: 5m Voltage: DC5V So it's 50W for the length of one 5m strip.    I'm considering chaining two or more strips together.   The data chain can be as long as it needs to be, but the the manufacturer recommends powering strips every 5m.     Let's say I have a 5v 60A (300W) DC power supply.   Can I run multiple strips (I guess up to six 5m strips) with this wired in parallel, or do I need to worry about putting resistors in to keep it from overloading the strips?    Here's a quick sketch diagram

Question by reverendpete    |  last reply


Convert 48V battery bank to 12V for boat appliances - Is this inefficient?

I need a 48V bank for an electric motor on my boat. I also need 12V for my appliances. Obviously keeping both a 48V and 12V bank would be most efficient but the space required and cost of maintaining 2 banks is a bit much. So I was thinking of using a 48V DC to DC convertor to convert a 48V bank to 12V for my boat appliances(lights, pumps, etc.) http://pt.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/HPQ-12-25-D48N-C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtwaiKVUtQsNaluUzA10QGezHFBNv8sYMI%3d But how much would I lose in terms of efficiency? Would the losses be too great? Would the bank of 4 x 12V 100AH batteries connected in series give me roughly 4800W ( 4 x 12 x 100 = 4800) or 16 hours of 300W use when drawing only 12V after the conversion?  Or would the available AH be much less due to the losses from the conversion?

Question by mchin2    |  last reply


What Is The Correct Inductance and Current Of Sendust Power Core Magnetic Coil for 1500W Pure Sine Wave Inverter?

Hi All, Building 1500W pure sine wave inverter using china technology but do not have know-how on the output coil value. I am using EGS002 for output stage. Refrerence: EG8010 SPWM.pdf page 11 figure 8.1a - L is 3.3mH for 300W and EGP1000W.pdf page 7 - I is 6.5A for 1000W. Question 1: The L = 3.3mH is it OK for 1500W pure sine wave inverter? Else simply applied any of this 2.3mH, or 1.6mH or 850uH and etc (found on ebay). Question 2: The peak current (I) = 1.414 * W / Vac = 1.414 * 1500W / 220Vac = 9.64A (10A) calculate with reference to EGP1000W pdf manual. Question 3:  In order to built 1500W pure sine wave inverter, can I use sendust 10A 3.3mH? Please advice. Thanks in advance.

Question by GearUp    |  last reply


Help me understand car radio and speakers? Answered

Okay so I bought a Scosche radio that is capable of 120W Peak (No clue what that means) Says 30W x4 which means each speaker can be 30W Correct? Well I did not know this and there are also (2) 5.25" 200W Scosche Speakers in the front and (2) 6"x9" 300W Schosche Speakers in the back. So my questions are: 1. Why does my car stereo work fine when the car is just in accessory mode? 2. Why does the car crackle and lose sound when it is on and I am driving? 3. Would I be able to use an AMP to gain more access to power for the speakers? 4. Do I need a different stereo? 5. If I can use an AMP, do I get a 1000W 4-Channel AMP? Here are the links for my speakers: http://www.scosche.com/hd-speakers-5-25-set http://www.scosche.com/hd-speakers-6-x-9-set-1

Question by profitablemlg    |  last reply


What will be the effect of series connection of two fans on static pressure of air? Answered

I have bought two similar  axial fan blades similar in each respect pitch,size,material,angle of attack etc below is the image.I have a powerful 300W electric motor.I want to attach{weld} both of these blades with the shaft of the same motor in series one above the another on the same motor shaft this would ensure that both the blades rotate with same RPM ,of course they would be separated by some distance i know that series connection of fans would increase the static pressure of air,but what confuses me a lot is that how the guide vanes{wings} of both the blades be aligned with respect to each other for maximum static pressure should the wings of both the blades synchronize with each other i-e clocked at the same rate or should they be at different positions with respect to each other.I have searched every forum but nothing fould.You people are my last hope.

Question by LoRD CurZoN    |  last reply


Help! My low voltage, outdoor lighting wont light up - transformer error codes?

I bought a Portfolio 300watt transformer for low voltage outdoor lighting and hooked up a 100' 12 gauge cable (outdoor rated lighting cable) to it. Then I hooked up 4 low voltage lights (12volt 20 watts each). I plugged the transformer in to a gfi outlet that I ran out from the house. And turned it on. The little display flashes "E" and then "1" . The instructions say that the E means that there is a fire hazard so check the circut. So I unhooked every light except one. Same error. I hooked on a different light and unhooked the first one. Same error. Instructions say the cable needs to be under 250'. And the load less than 300w. I am there, except it won't run. Do I have a bad transformer or is there something that I am missing? Oh, and this is to light my haunt in my front yard, so I am running out of time! Thanks for any advice! Matt

Topic by mckeephoto    |  last reply


Blank screen for dual monitor support, bad PSU or Bad Video card

2 computers (X,Y) X is intel 478 1GBram 80 GBHDD (celeron 2.6) 200W PSU ATIradeon 9200(PCI), can get multy monitor on this system. Y is same litlle newer 2GBram 80&40GB HDDs (p4 3.0GhzHT prescott)  300W ATIraeon 9550(AGP) cant get dual monitor. onboard wont work if card plugged in.  2nd monitor plugge in with DVI-VGA Adapter.  it gets power but screen is blank.  ATI cat and windows recognizes both monitors but can't get video to display on 2nd.  I really ont want to buy a psu if I don't need one.... will  try plugging in 9200 PCI into Y tonight if it works then don't think its power supply (cuz it will be powering to vieo cards) anyone know what may be my prob...Also noticed when enabling in windows, screen resolution says it is 1024,0 (should be 1024,768)  lights are green on both monitors. when 1st monitor goes to standby second monitor follows.... Please before I lose all my hair... anyhelp?....

Question by liggy    |  last reply


Low Powered Air Conditioner

I live in a converted bus made into a mobile home in Outback Australia. I'm currently building a 'Solar System'  so I can go anywhere without relying on hooking up to mains power. The biggest problem I'm having is finding an 'Inverter' that will handle power consumption to run my 'Fridge' and ''Air Conditioner', I have a 2500w Inverter but this can only run an 'Aircon' up to 300w, so tell me where you can get one that runs at this power level !! I have an idea that may get over both problems (Fridge and Aircon). I was looking through 'ebay' and found a 80L Fridge/Freezer that runs on 12v, mainly used for 4WDs and RVs. I'm just wondering if I could somehow carefully drill a hole into the freezer cabinet and coil copper or aluminum small bore pipe around the internal walls of this, then have a small 12v DC Pump circulating 'Antifreeze' or similar through a external radiator with fan blowing through this into my living area. I know this will be a drain on batteries as the freezer will be constantly running due to the warmer return fluid circling around inside the cabinet, but I'm not really worried about this as I will have 4 Solar Panels totaling around 500w production at 7-8amps and  4 Deep Cycle Batteries rated at 100ah each, total 400ah. Will this setup be efficient as a air cooling system without effecting the frozen food in my freezer too much. Would love to here any comments on this and also any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Regards Keith

Question by Keefe    |  last reply


SMPS H-Bridge trouble

Hi,  I've built a 1kW SMPS designed to take a 350V unsmoothed DC input and convert it to 3kV @ 300mA. The circuit is basically Uzzors2k's design seen here minus the overcurrent protection and smoothing capacitor (for now), however I accidentally wired the GDT outputs backwards so the gate resistors (33ohm 2W) are on the source. I have used alternate MOSFETs the latest attempt with FDPF16N50T's. I've had various problems with the circuit, primarily the MOSFET's exploding seemingly from overvoltage (evidence of flashover in some cases despite no evidence of secondary leakage (i dismantled the transformer to check)). During my last test I had a flashover between the drain and source pins of one of the FET's, in addition all of the gate resistors were smoking hot after, seems the gates had all been shorted (first time this happened, other occurrences were from case to ground). This happened despite the variac only being turned up to 40% which should be well well below the pin spacings maximum voltage tolerance. I have checked the drive signals, they are quite nice square waves at about +-15V with some oscillation on their rise. I have built SMPS's before, one is currently working with similar MOSFETs using a half bridge at 300W. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why these troubles are occurring or have any suggestions to fix it or have any alternative circuits that may be less troublesome (is a h-bridge easier to manage?)? Thanks, Stephen I​ just gave it another test with a H-bridge instead and the source of one of the FET's blew so it appears that there is just FET failure and maybe not arcing between drain and source.

Question by The MadScientist    |  last reply


is what i have decided for my computer build everything compatible? Answered

I decided to buy the core parts my custom cheap computer, that i plan to upgrade with better parts. but if i want to save money in the long run and not have to buy totally new parts for a building a decent computer. will these parts i choose will work together? the top parts are the bare essentials for my build, excluding the parts i already have in my old tower computer (case, 300W PSU, monitor, and keyboard, mouse, WiFi adapter {maybe read bellow}) MOBO:---ASRockZ77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 ATX Intel Mobo----------------------$140 CPU: -----Pentium G620 (lga-1155)-------------------------------------------------------------------$64 RAM:-----G.SKILL Ripjaws X-Series 8GB DDR3 RAM Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL---$40 i plan to get these parts after i get the initial build working. if i am unhappy with the above specs i will upgrade. my parents want me to build a cheap $250 computer first to see if i am up to the challenge.  so i want everything i listed to work well together. so far i have worked out everything except the power supply cables (if it will power everything listed and crossfire/SLI for future improvement.) PSU:------OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply---$50 after rebates CPU:------Intel i5 3570K-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------$220 GPU:------either a gtx 660, or a Radeon 7870.-----------------------------------------------------$230.00 ish CASE:----Cooler Master Computer RC 430 KWN1/dp/B003O8J11E---------------------------$46 HDD:------unsure. whetever i get my hands on in the future. it will be 7200 RPM or better, maybe a cheap ssd as for the GPU any recommendations? i want something within $250 and will play games on high settings with no problem, and dual monitor setup. i think this GTX 660 it seems to be slightly better than the radeon 7870, and cheaper. i might go with this. is it a good idea to get a CPU that has the 'K' at the end, i know this means it is overclockable bacause it is unlocked. but it it worth it to pay the extra 20 for a faster stock clock speed, and HD 4000 graphics? compared to the i5 3550? p.s. i will delete parts of my question(s) that have successfully been answered by you and the community.  thank you everyone who helped me out with this. i have to give credit to:  mpilchfamily, Willard2.0,  and bwrussell have been very helpful. i cant wait until i start building!

Question by -max-    |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

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