Is there such a thing out there in Shredder-Land that makes squares about 5-6 mm?
Question by Timbershine 4 years ago
Dear all, i am bit confused and want your expert help for following matter. 1. I have 12v 6A (2A X3 each= 6A) RGB contoller : as this link http://www.ebay.in/itm/24-key-IR-Infrared-Controller-remote-12V-power-Adaptor-fr-RGB-Strip-flood-Light-/161201011884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash;=item2588543cac 2. I have 5 mm common anode led: as this link http://www.ebay.in/itm/RGB-LED-5MM-Common-Anode-20pc-Set-/151542871353?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash;=item2348a8b539 i want to connect this 5mm common led total 6 nos with above mentioned 12v 6A RGB contoller. how to connect it safely so that led will not burn . because red needs 2.2 v , 20 ma , blue and green need 3.2v , 20ma to light up. and source is suppling 12v 2A . i think if i connect it directly . it will burn the led.
Question by YOG PATEL8186 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Well i was thinking, 5mm LED's take about 1/10 of a watt, correct? and from this calculator found out Cree 5mm led's are .806 lumen's. i assume they are 1 tenth of a watt. well, my calculator states they are 8 lumen's per watt (if i could run them at a watt.) i figure they are 1/10 of a watt because because this 500 led light makes takes about 50W as in the video and led's give less than a lumen of light. so far, it seems leds just last long and emit blueish light. is incandescent light better? with 20 lumens per watt from halogen?
Question by -max- 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello, I am trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to a speaker I salvaged from an old radio. The speaker has 2 wires: A + wire (marked yellow) A - wire (marked black) The problem is, the 3.5mm jack has 4 different wires: on one side, there is a copper one and a red one on the other, there is a copper one and a blue one. I got the speaker to work for a few seconds while plugged into my phone, but I cannot remember how it went.
Topic by dillon6667 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I am trying to make a transfer cable for my TI-84 Plus Silver Edition Calculator. It came with a USB-mini to USB-mini cable, but it has two ports on top. One for a USB-mini cable, and one for an I/O cable, with 3/32 TRS jacks (2.5mm) from Radio Shack. I am wondering how to connect two TRS jacks together to make a transfer cable. I don't know what kind of wire to use, or how the wires should be connected.
Question by Pettrocity 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I'm testing FM transmitter using multisim software.I don't know the value of the inductor to be used in the oscillator ( the oscill. has a variable cap.).I got this ckt. from a site, it is mentioned that the coil should be about 3mm in diameter and 5 turns. The wire is tinned copper wire, 0.61 mm in diameter.Since I'm testing it using multisim so i need a specific value.anyone knows it PLZ... let me know........THANKS.....
Question by manpreet singh 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I will be preping the hull with wire brush & Needle descaler , cut and grind V for patches.
Question by Joe Pryor 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Question by orthofoo 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello. I offer cnc prototype service.Serial work is also possible. Worldwide shipping to any country. Material: any ferrous and nonferrous metals,plastics and wood. Number of axes cnc milling center: 5 axis Laser cutting any ferrous and nonferrous metals, plastics and wood. (Maximum thickness 20 mm for steel.) Wire EDM cnc machine processing. Finishing: painting, polishing, electroplating and other. Detail size : any Minimal order: 1 piece. Format for drawing: Any digital format. Better SolidWorks or AutoCad. Shipping: Worldwide (EMS,DHL or other postal service) Payment: any Please contact: email@example.com
Topic by cnc5axiscut 5 years ago
Running with a rechargeable battery for 3-5 hrs
Question by somfire 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I'm trying to fit a pre-cut mirror glass (rescued from a $5 Wal-Mart mirror) into the back of a shadow box. The mirror itself is not quite square, so there is one corner and part of the adjacent edge which won't quite fit into box (about 0.5 mm overlap). If this was wood or plastic, I'd grab some sandpaper and bring the edge down to fit. Is there an equivalently easy, but safe, method for doing the same with glass (3 mm thick)?
Question by kelseymh 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I hooked up a 5 mm LED to a mini push button on-off switch. However, when it is in the off position the color is still bleeding through. Could this be because the LED is too strong for the switch? I am powering it with a CR2032 coin cell battery.
Topic by cpaz17 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Im not really looking for extremely thick (preferrably unwaxed) cotton cord, just something that's about 4-5 mm in diameter. I'm not even sure that what I'm talking about is called cotton cord, but its kinda like paracord with no inner strands and a braided cotton sheath.
Question by halimaw96 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have been experimenting with making a hot wire foam cutter. This needs to be at least 600 mm wide. I have to hand a PSU capable of providing 14 volts at 2 amps (or slightly below) This is 28 watts. Now the question i would like to calculate the heat the Nichrome wire will reach at any given wattage but have no idea if I can do this. I have several wires that work to different levels, resistance of 30R, 4 R, 137R at the length I am using. Any one any ideas how to calculate the temp or are there too many variables? So far I have worked empirically and arrived at the conclusion I need either around 18 volts at about 3 amps or I need a wire with a resistance of around 7R to suite the power i have available. I do know that the 20+ watts I am generating is just heating the wire to the melting point of the polystyrene foam. The melting point of the foam is apparently around 220 to 240 deg C (internet) At present it isn't cutting fast enough for my project. which required producing 5 mm thick sheets of foam with a reasonable consistency. i am cutting them from a 50 mm thick 1000mm x 500 mm block.
Question by rickharris 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hello Everyone, I want to screw two parts of aluminium 2014 together ..... one is a hollow cube with at-least 5 mm shell width without the top face and one is it's cap/metal sheet with 3 mm height with holes for two m12 to 8mm pneumatic fittings through which pipes will be connected... it is actually a water block ,cooling a part of my next project.. so i want to ask which kind of adhesive or gasket should i use in between them while screwing those two pieces together so that water or any other coolant doesn't leaks from the block and damages the electronic components. A non-native English speaker here, please ignore grammatical mistakes. :)
Question by _Boltz_ 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hi all, I'm wanting to make a jig for a production project requiring a sensitive optical measure of movement with a focal length of 5-10 mm. I thought an optical mouse might be a good start but the lenses in a few I've tried require the device to be too close. It needs to be no bigger than the electronics of a mouse. If anyone has a lens that could be perfect or other ideas I'd love to hear them. Thanks, D
Topic by Qball007 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Okay, I'm making a little LED project and I'd like help on these following questions: On most switches there are three little prongs, which ones do I connect to which wires? Do I need a resistor for a simple, battery powered, LED circuit, with 16 LEDs? If so, what kind of battery do I need and what kind of resistor? Can LEDs shine through a thin layer (3-5 mm) of balsa wood? Thanks! -popewill
Question by popewill 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi there, I'd like to change jack of some headphones I have. Original jack has 3 pins (left, right, power) and a switch on/off for power, now I want to use a standard 35 mm jack... How? I have 5 cables: blue, red, green, gray, brown... I'm sure blue and red go to same pin but no idea which of others go together... Any suggestion please? Thank you
Question by DiegoC199 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Can a 40 mm square Peltier thermoelectric heat pump be used as a solar generator It operates on 13 Vdc @ 5 Amps. Operating at 13 Vdc, we measured the hot side at 190 Deg. F and the cold side at 55 Deg F. I have a 6 foot reflector dish and can add Reok led tracker. How many watts will it generate if it does?. Thanks for your help
Question by talei1 9 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hello (excuse my English really bad I'm Belgian and French) I would like to cut aluminum sheet of + - 5 mm thick and also cut paper without "burning the edges" I would like to know what kind of "laser head" the cheapest possible exists and what would be even better, whether this kind of "laser head" is recovering ... I was thinking of a DVD laser burner but, even though I I'm as good at DIY as an elephant is good at skydiving, I guess a DVD burner will not cut aluminum ... A big thank-you
Topic by Hiram 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
So, here's the color organ (video form) I'm using (or going to use). I was wondering, since the input is from a 3.5 mm audio jack, could I take a direct line from a speaker instead of the jack. I want to use the speaker from this pig and have it as the direct input. Would that work? Would I have to bypass the amplifier in the color organ? All I want is to make the color organ work with the pig, but have the music playing from my iPod on the doc in the pig. (Or maybe the iPod dock might have the same output as a standard 3.5mm jack and I could split it). I am also thinking of buying two kits, one for each speaker, so that I can have the left and right LEDs flash independently. Please help!
Question by Metalio 7 years ago
I was looking for a solution to clean my roof windows and found this solution: www.supermagnete.de/eng/project136 But I don't know which magnets I should order. If they are to weak the sponge will fall of all the time, but I use this monster magnet like this guy the window might get damaged. Is there someone who got a collection of magnets already (and dirty windows) and want to give it a try? In my case the window is around 10mm thick + lets say 5-10mm sponge on each side + 3-4 mm thick piece of plywood to distribute the pressure.
Topic by HHL 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
22 inch long strip surrounding an exhaust tip.want an led every inch.my main prob is i dont know how physically big is an led.5 mm?3mm?dime? pencil eraser?that odd looking mole on my....,well you know. how big are the darn things?also,do i put a resistor every 2 or 3 bulbs according to volts and ohms and such or one really badass resistor at the begining.next ,the resistor drops voltage for the following leds in line.if the led in front is getting proper watts or voltage,then the one after that is getting less and so on,isnt it?i dont know help?
Question by frankentrike 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Seeking a source for remnants carbon fiber felt, will use as combination wind screen chimney internal liner to prevent loss of heat to the environment can use piece sized 4 x 24 inches-minimum. thickness 5 mm, 7mm or better if possible. carbon fiber is usually sold by the sq. yd./meter- i know that carbon fiber felt exists but can't seem to locate same, free or cheap is best, thats why i'm looking for remnant material. thanking you for your help big al
Topic by big al 1048 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Although I CAN do this without the math formula(e) to figure it all out, I would like to have it for a quicker method of figuring out size, etc. so I didn't have to use up so much material in guessing. I would like to construct the tesseract I have pictured here, using rigid clear plastic sheets or panels. Given a said size for the "inner cube" say 2 inches (approx. 5 cm or about 51 mm) what formula(e) must I use to calculate the panels' dimensions to connect to the larger cube (knowing full well this will depend on the size of the larger cube....say approx. 4 inches across (about 10 cm or 102 mm)? The reason I'd like the formula(e) is that I may need to increase the size of the center cube by an inch or so, and this would allow me to do so without having to go through the "trial and error" thing so many times. I would, of course, want the center cube to be "centered", if possible or shall I say as close as possible. Thanks....
Topic by Goodhart 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I'm building a 5 speaker boom box out of a heineken beer keg. For the input interface and amplifying, i'm using an old pc speaker amplifier circuit, and i want to do the following changes to it: Put 3 input jacks, altogether (plugged into the same spot of the circuit): 1x 3.5 mm jack for mp3 player input. Kind of Aux input. 2X 1/4" jack for two guitars or another combination of instruments. Put another output jack, 1/4", additional to the 3.5mm already there. Questions: If i plug too much things in will the amplifier burn or explode? Will it be able to drive 5 speakers (1x 1.5", 2x 2" and 2x 4" approx.) Other info: it runs with a little transformer of 220v/60hz to 9V DC. The speakers were rated to 110V/60hz. Does this means it acctualy runs on 4.5V DC?
Question by vinacarv 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I picked up guitar again, and found that my MIDI keyboard has a good set of speakers. I have a MIDI to USB cable currently, as well as some 1/4" and 3.5 mm jack cables. The ports on the back of the keyboard are Sustain, Headphones in, Midi In/Out, and power supply. Computer has USB of course, mic in, and headphone out. This is my last resort, as there are no other good speakers that I can use. I want the sound live if possible, too. I'm totally stumped. Even vague answers will help.
Question by Fenderpony 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
So I've been wanting a recumbent bike to help me get in shape. I'm far enough out of shape that a standard bike is uncomfortable to the point of being a deterent. The biggest obstacle to me is the price. Even the Terra Trike which is supposed to be an affordable, entry level option is almost a grand even bare bones. I tried looking on craigslist but even used ones rarely dip below 800. So I looked for something I could diy. My biggest obstacle on that front is I don't own, or know how to use a welder. I think I've found something promising though. There is a group in The Netherlands called N55. They are sort of a engineering/art collective and they focus on things to improve modern life. One of the projects they have out there is their XYZ Vehicles. They are pedal powered vehicles designed so that they can be put together with a minimum of tools. All that really should be needed is a power drill, some wrenches and a metal saw. From what I understand, they do classes where they build the 2 upright versions, the bakfiet and the tadpole design with the cargo box, but these are all over in europe and I am in Arizona so... I haven't been able to find anyone as of yet who has made one of the recumbents here in the states and posted about it. I would love to do this and post it as an instructable but I need some help. All of the materials list is metric and while I personally think a base-10 system makes a heck of a lot more sense that what we call standard measurements, I'm still not familiar with metric. So my question to the community is, should I convert all the measurements to standard or is there someplace i can buy these materials from here in the states in metric sizes? B I L L O F M A T E R I A L S : B O L T S & N U T S M6 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 150 pieces (TWOSEATER: 200 pieces) M8 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M8 NUTS NORMAL, stainless - ca. 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 and M8 BOLTS with Hexagon head, stainless, (DIN931): 6mm x 140 mm - ca. 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: 3 pieces) 6mm x 90 mm - ca. 15 pieces (TWOSEATER: 20 pieces) 6mm x 90 mm - ca. 5 pieces in DIN 933 (full thread) (TWOSEATER: identical) 6mm x 60 mm - ca. 60 pieces (TWOSEATER: 120 pieces) 6mm x 65 mm - ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 6mm x 40 mm - ca. 25 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 8mm x 120mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 8mm x 100mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 WASHERS - ca. 300 pieces (TWOSEATER: 400 pieces) M8 WASHERS - ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) A L U M I N U M 2x25x25mm ALUMINIUM SQUARE TUBE: 15m (TWOSEATER: 34m) 3x30x30mm ALUMINIUM SQUARE TUBE: 1m (TWOSEATER: 2.5m) 4x60mm ALUMINIUM FLAT: 1m (TWOSEATER: identical) 2x22mm ALUMINUM ROUND TUBE Ø 22mm: 1m P L A S T I C S 3x880x340mm POLYCARBONATE SHEET (TWOSEATER: 2 times) ENDCAPS (PE), black, for 2x25x25 tubing: ca. 70 pieces (TWOSEATER: 100 pieces) ENDCAPS (PE), black, for 3x30x30 tubing: ca. 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: 15 pieces) POM or PE black, round Ø 25mm: ca. 0,3m (TWOSEATER: 0,5m) POM or PE black, square 21x21mm: ca. 0,6m (TWOSEATER: 0,5m) POM or PE WASHERS M8: ca. 20 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M I S C E L L A N E O U S AXIAL NEEDLE BEARINGS M8: 4 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) NYLON SPHERE w. screwthread, black, diameter 50mm: 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) NYLON RIBBON, black, width 25mm, for seat side support: 1,7m (TWOSEATER: 3,5m)
Topic by dark8587 4 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hello! This is my first post on this site so I hope it will be a good one! I have both a Samsung Messager and an iPod Touch 4th Gen (I'm not too sure if versions matter in this or not). The phone has a 3.5 mm TRS headphone jack with both three and four conductor capabilities and my iPod has the same. Now, this is the conundrum I am in: My phone has the capabilities to record sound one of two ways, through the built in mic or through the headset (which also has a mic). However, when I do the recording sounds garbled, static-like, and all around horrible. Would there be a way to make a direct link from my iPod to my phone through the TRS jacks? I was thinking that if I did this then the digital sound quality would be much better. Then I could play my iPod, turn on the recording feature on my phone, and easily record the songs as they play. Then I could use those recordings as ringtones. If at all possible I would not like to take apart my phone or iPod but I don't care about the headsets, I have plenty. I have experience in soldering and a bit in cicuitry. Thanks in advance!
Question by ben_xman 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
We're situated in Tanzania on a cereals farm. Needless to say - plenty of empty plastic chemical containers, creating massive headaches when it comes to destroying it. Does anyone have some pointers as to how we can do re-cycling on the farm - keeping in mind we're about 800km (500miles) due west from Dar-es-Salaam. We'd like to make some 5-7 mm sheeting out of the stuff to be used on the farm - to replace stolen sheet-metal water gates used for regulating water flow into rice paddies. Any sparks out there to light our fire? Kind regards Hendrik Neethling Kapunga Rice Project Limited (KRPL) Tanzania Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Land: +255 752 44 5572 Cell: +255 768 299 813
Topic by HJN 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
LED Specs Size (mm) : 5mm Lens Color : Water Clear Reverse Current (uA) : <=30 Life Rating : 100,000 Hours Viewing Angle : 180 Degrees Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C) Max Power Dissipation : 80mw Max Continuous Forward Current : 24mA Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA Reverse Voltage : 5~6V Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec) Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°Cï»¿ and i'm using a B3v-250c 3 LED array to hook them up that i bought from ebay
Question by JustXtreme 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hi all, I have a Clive messenger bag that is perfect for my carrying and commuting needs, except for the strap. The material of the strap is pretty flimsy, not the tough woven type as found on timbuk2 or Chrome messenger bags. If the bag is too heavy (with books, etc) the strap slides so that it's too long. The strap is sewn into the bag on one side, and on the other side, the strap goes through a small (maybe 5 mm diameter) metal rectangular loop. The strap always bunches and the loop hangs vertically so that the tab connected to the bag and the bag strap are all bunched. Does anyone have any ideas on how to re-sew or replace the strap and/or loop so that the strap doesn't bunch or slide? Thanks
Updated question: As using nichrome wire does not seem to work in my application, I am looking for ideas how to ignite this smoke cartige, electrically and with no explosives and with a battery shorter than AA. Thanks! Hi, First, I have very little experience in electronics. I am familiar with Ohm's law but don't undestand it fully in every situation. However, I'm developing a product in which I need to make a nichrome wire glow for at least 5 seconds, with help of a battery. The lenght of the wire must be at least 5 cm and must be at least 0.2 mm diamater. (Longer/bigger is even better). I am trying to find the smallest battery possible, due to very limited space. After 5 seconds, it doesn't matter if the battery goes flat, as long as it doesn't explode, catch fire or anything else unpleasant. I have already read through every forum with similar questions like mine, and have understood that I need a battery that can deliver enough current. I therefore have an idea that I maybe could use a high capacity coin cell battery of model CR2477 (1000 mAh, 3 V). However, as I, due to my limited knowledge in electronics, I cannot predict what will happen to this battery and I'm too scared to try. I also found this website that let's you calculate, for example current requirement with a given wire: http://www.jacobs-online.biz/nichrome/NichromeCalc.html If I punch in the following data: 5 cm length, 32 gage, 2 volts, I get a current requirement of 1.15 Amps. I entered 2 volts because of internal resistance of the battery, don't know if that was correct. Will the CR2477 battery be able to supply 1.15 Amps for 5 seconds? Will anything not nice happen to it? In the data sheet of the battery I read a maximum pulse current of 25mA, which makes me think that it will not work. But at the same time, I know that a standard 9V battery would work, and this has less capacity in mAh (though higher current). Can somebody help me understand? Thanks!
Question by karolina81 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I bought an assortment of components: resistors, diodes, capacitors, all mixed together on about a meter of cut tape from a reel for an automatic PCB populating machine. The original reel was marked as surplus from DEC and looks to be about 20 years old. One of the components is this black cylinder, like a very fat resistor, about 5 mm long and 3mm diameter. No resistance or diode action. Brittle and crack off with a pliers like ferrite. They do not melt or burn with a candle flame. The wire lead goes straight through and out the other side. Can be picked up by a magnet, but are not themselves magnets. They have no markings of any kind, but have shiny flecks. Are they some kind of magnetic tape position marker to tell the insertion machine what component is next? Say like a binary code?
Question by iectyx3c 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi all! I'm developing an electronic application which looks more or less like the picture. Diameter abt 40 mm. I need to find a way to make this waterproof, at least down to 5 meters. Another requirement is that the 2 knobs need to have a tight wrap around them (they are tactile switches), which means that I can't just put it in a waterproof plastic bag. I have looked into shrink wrapping, which would make the 2 knobs stick out like I want, but I have understood that the seals in a shrink wrapped product are usually not too watertight. I would also like a wrapping that gives a smooth upper surface, if this is possible. Maybe shrink wrap and watertight tape over the bottom seal would work? Can you think of other ways to do it? Thanks in advance!
Question by karolina81 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
A) So i'm upgrading my soldering fume extractor as the OLD model looks ancient.. the old model ran x5 12v dc fans with the following current rating ( 0.12A, 0.25A, 0.41A, 0.40A, 0.40A ) and 3 standard 5 mm led's. POWERED BY 12v = 500mA DC power supply B) the NEW model will have x4 dc fans @ 0.41a x1 12v 360 degree W5W led 0.41A x6 5mm leds x1 arduino Nano. My questions are: 1) How did i power the OLD model (A) with that power supply. from my understanding if doesn't supply enough current. 2) Can i power all the components in the NEW model(A) with a 12v 1A supply and if not how can i power all these components from 1 plug? thanks for your help
Question by icey.hood 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
The LED's I want to use have this as a data sheet: Emitted Colour : White Size (mm) : 10mm Lens Colour : Water Clear Peak Wave Length (nm) : N/A Forward Voltage (V) : 3.2 ~ 3.8 Reverse Current (uA) : <=30 Luminous Intensity Typ Iv (mcd) : Average in 25000 Life Rating : 100,000 Hours Viewing Angle : 20 ~ 25 Degree Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C) Max Power Dissipation : 80mw Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA Reverse Voltage : 5~6V Im going to be using 150 of them and was told my arduino cant power them all and I need to get/make a "led driver" So Im not exactly sure what I need to make to power them, and not blow up my arduino. Any help?
Question by 'earl 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I will be going to college soon and have found out that my roommate gets shaken by loud noises, so I had to abandon my guitar-amp amplified phone alarm for a quieter alternative. I was referred to a vibrating alarm system that fits into pillows and runs on signal from music players and/or plain ol' alarm clock inputs, but those are waaay too expensive, and I prefer building my own over buying. Here's the situation: I have a USB-powered vibrating massager that I got for free at some tech convention. Since it's USB-powered, I know it runs on 5 volts, which is more than my phone's 3.5 mm plug can deliver. How can I build an amplifier circuit that will boost the signal from my phone enough to run the motor? Thanks
Question by Usf 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I just purchased an electromagnet from Amazon for a small prop for an upcoming play I am directing. Now my problem is... I do not have a clue as to how to supply the power to it. It needs to be able to run steady for roughly 3 hours. What size batteries would I need -the smaller the better in terms of size since the prop itself is not that large, ut will do whatever is necessary to function properly. Here is the only information the electromagnet had attached to it: 'Feature: Electric lifting magnet Powerful and compact Smooth and flat surface Low consumption and reliable Applications: assembly line, sorting machine, mechanical arm, experimental facility, etc Specification:Material: Metal Input Voltage: 12V DC Lifting Force :20N Overall Size : 15 x 15 mm /0.6 x 0.6 inch(Dia. *T) Thread DIA : 3mm Lead Length : 24cm/9. 5 inch" Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced!
Question by DeanB77 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I would like to propose a standard for the design of an "Erector Set" type construction kit based on a standard 10mm thick by 25mm wide rail with 8mm holes spaced 25mm apart. The metric sizing would insure a global participation in the design process. The main construction rails could be built from any smooth grained hardwood such as hard maple in North America or several other species I have seen used in Europe or ABS plastic, Aluminum, etc. Alternatively, a 5/15 - 3/8 - 1 inch format might find greater acceptance in the US which would allow for use of many standard components such as skate board wheels which use a 5/16 shaft for bearings, etc. Given a standard hole size, thickness, and spacing, a variety of 3D printed components could be designed by the community as add-ons to the basic kit. Ideally such designs would be done in Autodesk Inventor based on PARAMETRIC MODELS that could be adjusted for say both a mm and inch standard. Laser cutting at TechShops, 3D printing, and other simple home shop built components for connectors, etc., as well as suggestions for utilizing other standard building components such as say plastic tubing for spacers, and other standard hardware components, would greatly expand the features of the construction kit. Ideally Makers, TechShop members, home woodworkers, etc. would produce kits and make them available to "young inventors and engineers" in our school systems as a community project. While I have suggested the above mentioned dimensions, these and other basic considerations should be vetted in a crowd sourced forum before any standards are set.
Topic by astroyny 5 years ago
Firesleeve(Silicone Coated Fibreglass Sleeve) 1)Silicone rubber coated fiberglass sleeve(sleeving) - Protects hoses, cables and wires. from molten metal splash, high heat hazards and occasional exposure to flame, in steel plants, glass plants, foundries, cutting and welding shops and wherever hoses, cables and wires may be exposed to high heat or occasional flame. Fireproof sleeve also may be used to insulate your race cars plumbing system. 2)Continuous protection to 500F, short term exposure thru 2200F Extremely flexible and conformable through out entire size range at temperatures -65F thru 500F. 3)Impede heat radiation of flame 4)Protect operator from burning by hot pipe 5)Impede heat lost and favor to saving energy 6)Moisture-proof, water-proof, resistance to oil and pollution 7)Color: red and blue mainly. 8)Bore diameter(mm):15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,90,100,110,120,130;(Sizes from 1/4" I.D. to 6" I.D.) Yancheng Hengsheng Insulation Co.,Ltd Web: http://www.hsinsulation.com Email: email@example.com Tel :+86-139-61986280 Fax : +86-515-88430696
Question by firesleeve 7 years ago
Hey have been thinking on how to modify https://www.instructables.com/id/Altoids-Tin-18-Stereo-Mixer/ to accept a 3.5mm 4 pole conductor as the output while splitting the mic to the inputs. This is going to be something like the Iphone ear buds with built in mic. I just got a pair of amplified 4 pole headphones with mic that I want to use for everything. Here is my wish list: 3 - 4 pole Audio in (iphone, macbook, ...) 1 - 3 pole Audio in from computer 1 - Mic in from computer 1 - RJ10 (so I can use my headset with my cisco phone) The audio mixing is basically the same as Rich's write up. But im not sure if I can just split the mic to everything. If I am sacrificing mic volume by splitting to every input I could limit it to the CPU mic and the RJ10.. the ones i really want. Please let me know any ideas or advice you have. Here is my purposed schematic:
Question by V4zra 6 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I found a broken cell phone with it’s camera and wondered if the lens could be used as a microscope objective. Image A shows the lens and it’s mounting with the CCD. The back of the lens is shown. The lens is about 4 to 5 mm in diameter. The starters from florescent lights make good lens holders. Image B shows a starter along with my modifications to hold the cell camera lens. The starter tube has 4 slits along the length so it can be compressed to fit the turret of the microscope. Image C shows it mounted on the turret. Image D shows the resulting view of a feather. It’s quite bad. Image E shows, for comparison, the view through an ordinary 20x objective (.40 NA). Here are some more lenses that I tried: Lens from a discarded flatbed scanner..... Very good! Lens from a 8mm movie camera...... Fair. Lens from the laser pickup of a discarded CD player..... Almost worthless. To take pictures through the microscope, I used eyepiece projection with a wide angle eyepiece. The lens on the camera was set to wide angle and maximum aperture, with a remote used to trigger the shutter. The camera’s LCD was used to focus and adjust the image. The camera’s autofocus handles the rest. For even illumination, be sure to center the objective lens over the substage condenser.
Topic by ShutterBugger 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I wrote in a while back about the problem with it. When I plugged it in it would beep 3 times and not boot up. I changed the RAM and I get no beeps anymore but it still will not boot up. I have a motherboard and 4 different CPU's but I don't know which one will work with the motherboard. I need to see if someone can help me on that. The on that its going in is a Gateway Windows XP The motherboard is from 2000 but it has never been opened or out of the box. I can't get anyone to help explain to me in English on how to know what kind of mobo to get that I can understand. They just keep going off in the big computer talk and I have no idea what they are saying so they don't want to take the time to help me so I need to try and put this one in it. Now I need to see if you guys can help me. Here's the info on the one it going into. Gateway Windows XP Model # MF ATXSTL KTH 300SE LTD Kittyhawk # AA AS1507-805 Motherboard Date 4/02 Here's what I have; MU440EX Motherboard for Intel Pentium 2 & Celeron Processors Intergrated with AGP Graphics and PCI Audio BOXMU440EX AA 702993-403 IUMU82112710 Date 2000 1.) Intel Celeron Processor 466MHz Processor Core Speed 128KB Cache fan heatsink version # 737834-001 MM # 822441 66MHz system bus 128KB L2 Cache Duel Independent Bus Architecture MMX Media Enhancment Technology Date # 5/99 2.) Pentium Processor with MMX Technology 233MHz W / MMX Item # 0323009 MFG# BOXBP80503233 MM # 813082 FPO# L7421952 Date 11/97 3.) AMD ATHLON Processor 650MHz 200MHz system bus 128KB High Performance L1 Cache super Floating Point Unit I also have two cards that I don't know what they are for; Intel Celoron 6910161 79080161-0754 09190358 SL39Z 400/66 Costa Rica B121 Intel Celoron 6910162 79080161-0545 09190358 SL39Z 400/66 Costa Rica B121 4324 Ethernet Card RJ-45 P/N 63H2449 ASSY; SB0110240-01N 9/22/04 Intel 109X1512A2036 Sanyo Denki 600/512/100 2.0V SI 99290661-0267 Malay '98 SL3JT This is what I have and if someone could help me with what will work with what and what will not work with what. I have been trying to get this thing going for about three months now. Also if any of these do work together will I have to do anything with the BIOS. If anyone knows of any video and/or step by step instructions on this please let me know. Thank you to all for any help.
Question by madrasi 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hello everybody. I am a newbies in this world and I am a bit lost. I want to make a project witch is a single direction led chaser. ( 6 led blinking one after another from one to six then start from the beginning over and over). I found plenty of larson scanner nightrider style but those are all bi-directional. Since I don't know much about it, I would need someone to tell me what hardware that I need and maybe a plan of the circuit. I will use 6 orange ultra-bright 5 mm led VF: 2.1V- 2.5V VR: 5V. I would like to know what resistor that I have to use with this setup. I've read about a 4017 ship but I don't know if it is the one that I need for my project. I know I will need a lot of hardware that I don't know the name and that is why I need help. It will be on a car so it need to be on 12V. I will have to make my schema on a PCB board 1 inch X 10 inches. It would be good if i can adjust the speed too. Since it will be a car blicker/flasher, I don't know if I need to use blinking led or if regular bright led will do. Sorry about my lack of knowledge(and my bad English), I am sure that I forget to mention a lot of detail so feel free to put me on the right track. Thank you for your time people Rick PS: In the picture, we aiming for the 6 orange led. they have to blink one at a time from the left to the right over and over.
Topic by rbrunet 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Ok, Ive been debating this for a long time, and I already bought some of the parts, But Im trying to figure out what else I need. So far, I have" Computer power supply Prototype board from radioshack with copper eyes. Two way screw terminal 3 - 20 pin IC terminals (I know I need more, but 3 is all radioshack had at the time) 2 - 16 Pin IC terminals 1000 uf Capacitor - 6.3v 100 uf capacitor - 10v 33uf capacitor - 6.3v A push button 3 status led's (Red, Green, and yellow) Arduino uno protoboard ^ I also have 18 gauge aluminum wire for the layers. I have a spool of rosin core solder (I hope this will work, I dont wanna buy more) And Im going to get 1000 blue leds off ebay. with these specs: Color: Blue Size (mm): 5mm Lens Colour: Water Clear Forward Voltage (V): 3.2-3.4V Wave Length(nm): 465-470 Luminous Intensity : 11000 - 12000 MCD Life Rating: 100,000 Hours Viewing Angle: 20-25 Degree Max Power Dissipation : 80mw Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA Reverse Voltage : 5~6V Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec) Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°C As far as the rest goes I have NO idea what I need. Im going to be using my arduino with it, And im not 100% sure how to change the current instructable here to work with it. they dont specify. Any help would be really appreciated. Ive wanted to make one for a LONG time :D
Question by 'earl 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
There are always good contests available for those keen on competing, but what about a real challenge that might run for many months? I am talking about rediscovering ancient technologies and ways of creating things. We have a lot of evidence that is in massive contrast to what archeologists want to make us believe. Be it the way the pyramids were build or just in what timeframe, the use of technologies thought to be impossible at that time or just the knowledge of things like star constellations that are not not visisble to the naked eye. In a lot of areas it seems not only archeologists but also some "secret powers" try to put a hold on discovering what was really possible thausands or maybe even millions of years ago. Things like the knowledge of distand star systems that are invisible to the naked eye might never find a suitable explanation. But what about tools and technologies used to create stonework that is hard if not impossible to create with our modern tools and technologies? I dare everyone to participate in the impossible! We know thausands of years ago milling, drilling, machining and lathe work was done but we have no real clue how it was done. At times when the rest of human kind was happy using stone tools and otherwise just hunt and gather for food some areas saw an explosion in technology. Within less than a few hundert years some builders in Egypt went from simple and explainable works to stuff impossible to do in today times. Same for India, the UK and the american continent. No hardend steel tools were ever found, no machines, no evidence on the how to, just the perfect work. Here is the challenge I propose: Come up with: 1. A way to cut or drill granite and harder rocks without modern tools or tech and still do it faster and more accurate. 2. A way to match hard rocks to each other with a precision down to less than a mm - as shown in many ancient buildings preferably on a big scale. 3. A way to create delicate carvings in hard rocks, things like hollow heads less than 5cm in size or cravings with spaces of less than 3mm wide and several cm deep - as shown in many India sculptures. 4. A way to build a lathe capable or turning several tons of steel with an accuracy better than half a mm and without electrical or combustion engines. 5. A feasable way to transport and accurately position several tons of stone - again without electricity or combustion engines. 6. A way to create sculptures with an accuracy shown by the ancient Egyptian ones, meaning perfection... 7. .... I could go on but I guess you get the picture ;) The solutions could be as simple as using sound and vibration or as complicated as finding a way to create tools hard and durable enough to proove the archeologists are right after all. And before you cry out that it is impossible: Consider the evidence! We know it was done but we don't know how, so let's show the world how we at Instructables solve the problems noone can explain ;) I can't offer any real contest, prices or such but maybe someone is reading this and willing to provide the base and soem prices?
Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago