Search for 55 gallon drum in Topics

Cleaning a 55 Gallon Drum?

Hey, I'm looking to build a rain barrel, and found out that my local car wash is willing to give me a 55 gallon drum. The thing is, I don't know what kind of soap they use (I would have asked, but the guy was impossible to understand) or how to clean it out. If anybody has experience in this, that'd be great!

Topic by Weissensteinburg    |  last reply

Where can I get the blue 55 gallon drums? Answered

Where can I get the blue 55 gallon drums, like the ones people use for rain barrels?

Question by crocboy    |  last reply

55 gallon barrels

Where can I purchase barrels for a floating dock that are priced reasonable?  I live in the country and don't have or know anyone to try to pick up barrels for free.  The prices are all over the place for plastic ones, so I thought someone who purchased them might give me a heads up where to purchase them.

Question by jdvallet    |  last reply

where can i find 55 gallon steel drums? Answered

i need one for projects like a charcoal burner or just storage. but they cost about 60$ new. i always see them as trash cans in parks in such so i guess their cheap use, but where do you find them used?

Question by finbar galdeep    |  last reply

does anyone know a good source of barrels?

I am looking for some barrels to do some projects with, but i am not sure where to get them from, im looking for 55 gallon drums, any suggestions?

Question by cyc4015    |  last reply

Where can I get 55 plastic drums?

I need to get several plastic 55 gallon drums for various projects. Does anyone know any good non-specific places to get them?(non specific i.e. schools, car washes, resturaunts, or national chain stores and the like)

Question by RedneckAsian    |  last reply

Converting a 55 gallons (200 liters) drum into an oven and grill

On the Chilean TV show Hagalo Usted Mismo (Do it yourself) it is showed how to make a combination of an oven and a grill using a 55 gallon (200 liters) steel drum. Although it is in Spanish, the video shows how to make it step by step. An important note mentioned in the video is that the drum must previously stored non toxic products.

Topic by blkhawk    |  last reply

Good place for Food-grade barrels?

Trying to do some of the rain barrel projects, but I don't know where I can find 55 gallon food-grade barrels without spending an arm and a leg to have them shipped.

Topic by Ryutso  

What projects can you use used 55 gal. steel drums for?

What can you do with a used 55 gal. steel drum besides crushing it and sending it to the recyclers?

Question by DBloom    |  last reply

rotating compost pricicng

How much do you think people would pay for a rotating composter made from a recycled 55 gallon drum and all recycled materials?

Question by Herbal_T  

I have a 55 gal metal drum that I want to burn in. Does anyone know how to set this up?

I have a 55 gal metal drum that I want to burn in.  Does anyone know how to set this up?  I think I want to bury it a little so we don't have to stand up all the time.  Someone said to set on something in the ground for ventilation.  Everyone says something but I can't find anyone that just knows how.  Thanks for your help. I want to use the drum for outdoor fun.  Bon fire type of thing with an occasional marshmellow roasting. 

Question by vcreel    |  last reply

How do I clean a 55 Gallon Plastic Drum that contained Industrial Grade Detergent?

I picked up three free 55 gallon plastic drums after seeing them posted on craigslist.  I was inspired by the compost tumbler and rain collection instructables, and I was looking to build my own.  However, the plastic drums contained an industrial grade detergent used in food and beverage processing facilities.  Two of the barrels were FiChlor Foam HD and the other contained Liqualin CC.  Do you think I could clean these out enough to make them safe for these projects?  Would the chemicals have leaked into the plastic? For rain collection, I was going to use the water for flushing my toilet, so it wouldn't be for watering a garden, and definitely not for drinking.  For the compost, would the chemicals remaining in the plastic leak into the compost?  And then would any plants exposed to that compost die? I really appreciate some feedback on this.  I've read most instructables on here that involve 55 gallon plastic drums, and the recommendation is to use Food Grade containers.  I'm just disappointed about the possibility of not being able to use the ones I picked up because they contained a detergent.  The containers are marked as "Corrosive" and "Do not reuse this container unless it is first professionally cleaned and reconditioned."  This is definitely a bad sign. :( Thanks guys, Eoin Here's some information I found from the manufacturer, Chemetall: Safety and Handling Precautions: Oakite FiChlor Foam HD is a highly alkaline chlorinated material containing sodium and potassium hydroxide. Direct contact causes irritation of eyes and skin. It is harmful if swallowed. Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing. Wear safety goggles, rubber gloves and other protective clothing when handling. Wash thoroughly after handling. Avoid breathing vapors. Use only in well-ventilated areas. Do not take internally. Liqualin CC:  Heavy-duty, low foaming, non-silicated alkaline liquid for use in CIP systems or spray washing stainless steel processing equipment in beverage and food plants.

Question by eoingrosch    |  last reply

Procuring a Rain Barrel?

I am looking to start my DIY water collection system, but the key for me is to find 3-4 55 gallon plastic drums for this project. I located someone on craigslist selling several drums for a very reasonable price. The question I have is, should I be very concerned that these plastic drums once contained various car washing fluids? Can these be effectively rinsed out? Will my garden be severely impacted by this?

Question by mcain    |  last reply

where do i find free 55 gallon or more barrel here in toronto, canada?

Can you please give me suggestions where i can find a free 55 gallon or more barrel for rain water that i plan to collect? i'm currently located in toronto, canada. really appreciate any help i could get!

Question by leilamae    |  last reply

Does anyone have an underground water storage system?

I have four 55 gallon plastic sealed top drums barried in the ground. They are meant to store water from my washer and rain water. I have a 3" inlet running in line to the four barrels. On the other side I put 3/4 inch PVC to an inch from the bottom of the barrel. The PVC is meant to get used something like a straw in your soda. I have the straws in line to the water pump. The problem I am having is that the pump requires to be primed to work. How can I keep it primed? It would be great if there was a valve that closed when the barrel was near empty. That way the pump would continue to pump the water from the other barrels and never loose its prime. Any ideas here????? Again, these are sealed toped barrels. I cannot open them to put a sump pump at the bottom, not to mention, a sump pump couldn't supply the pressure needed for my sprinklers. Thank you in advance for any advice! ! !

Question by Mikestime22    |  last reply

Can a 30 gal steel drum barrel stove inside a 55 gal drum heat chamber be integrated into existing HVAC?

I want to make a wood burning stove in my basement using a 30 gal steel drum for the burn chamber. Now the interesting part: The 30 gal drum will be inside a 55 gal drum, which will be the heat chamber. Will I be able to use this setup to partially or fully heat the 2000 sq ft upstairs? I was thinking of using a below grade through the wall stovepipe kit with integrated cold air return hooked to the 30 gal barrel, and then attaching the 55 gal heat chamber into the existing HVAC ducting. I would create the burn chamber with one of the many barrel stove kits like those available from US Stove. Bonus question: if this is possible, can I double the fun with a tandem setup (side-by-side or stacked) connecting the outer 55 gal heat chambers with a duct?

Question by sthain    |  last reply

best way to connect 3 55 gallon barrel together under ground.But can use the submercible pump 1 barrels & equal out ?

I need help on how to connect three 55 gallon barrels under ground that will allow them to equal out all at once and allow me to keep my 12v submercible pump in only one tank.And then itll all flow to that one tank as its draining.

Question by lightsfanatic    |  last reply

can you use these drums for garden watering once it is clean??

I have a 55 gal metal drum with a lining that had motor oil in it.  I wanted to use it for watering the garden if it can be  cleaned. does anyone have any ideas?  Thks, mary ann

Question by goldnyr    |  last reply

World's Smallest Workshop, Mead Honey Wine, Making Glove Molds

  World's Smallest Workshop Mead Honey Wine Making Glove Molds Stainless Steel Rose Catch a Cockerfly Fun Stool from Trash Chair 55 Gallon Drum Easy Coffee Liqueur Sandwiches Leather Mountain Bike Grips Crocheted Peas in a Pod Field Sink Featured Author: noahw Triple Chocolate Brownie Cake Transform a Lawnmower

Topic by randofo  

What would you suggest for a rank novice female to build as a boat with very young children ages 5 to 13?

It needs to be light enough for us to maneuver by ourselves with very clear instructions. I wanted to build a pontoon boat with 55 gallon plastic drums and duct tape, but it sounds too heavy. We have a garage we can use in which to build it. For inland lake use. Any ideas out there?  What about a paddleboat?, Grandma                                    

Question by jozann    |  last reply

I have a question about a anarobic digester construction. Answered

While working on a current project with a homemade anarobic digester i have come to a question. When turning on the gas valve tosupply the burner with Methane thathas been collected what type of device shoudl i use to keep the fire from traveling up the gas line making a kind of bomb? Or should i not be concerned with this happening? Second is there a way to store the methane under pressure ? If i install a large metal container  such as a  55 gallon drum   above  the  digester   how  can i  compress the gas ?

Question by andy1917    |  last reply

Any good floatation buoyancy ideas for a shantyboat/boat (or dock)?

I have a few designs for recycled material and/or ultra-small shantyboats in my new book, as well as a few on the drawing board- as I plan to make a small shantyboat this summer....but flotation-wise, using recycled materials- any ideas (I've included a few in my designs already- 55 gallon plastic drums, 5 gallon buckets with silicone sealed lids, long runs of recycled pvc (with both ends sealed), screened in blocks of capped soda bottles, etc).... I'm sure there are a ton of different ideas and methods out there.... -Deek My BOOK is NOW OUT "Humble Homes, Simple Shacks, Cozy Cottages, Ramshackle Retreats, Funky Forts (And Whatever The Heck Else We Could Squeeze In Here!)"

Topic by Deek D    |  last reply

cheapest and lightest boat possible

I want to know how to make a lighweight weight potable boat thats cheap, and also small yousing materials like plastic 44 gallon drum maybe. can you help me?

Topic by JACKBARRY    |  last reply

Wine Barrel

Does anyone know anywhere i could go or look to purchase/obtain an empty (large) wine barrel, like the old fashioned looking wooden ones for cheap? i looked around but to buy a large one like 55 gallon is REALLY expensive

Topic by puno  

composter question

Never composted before, but am going to get a 55 gal poly drum. I live in Phoenix, AZ. the thing will probably be in shade most of the time.  Will that get too hot for worms? How many holes should I make, how close to the bottom and how big? Thanks.

Topic by dorothyroeder    |  last reply

How do I build a vertical barrel strawberry garden?

 I want to build a vertical strawberry garden using a plastic 55 gallon barrel.  How do I cut and shape the little oval holes in the side of the barrel?  I see these in photos but don't know how to get them to retain the shape.

Question by crb1    |  last reply

Oil Central Heating - minimum amount Kerosene needed for testing it works

We have moved into a house with oil central heating that has not been used in at least 5 years and with no oil (Kerosene)at all in the tank.  We want to test if the boiler/oil burner actually works. Therefore we do not want to buy gallons of oil at the moment as we just want to test it to see if it works at all and then we can buy oil in the winter to save the expense now as it will not be in use now. A lot of companies have minimum orders however we were told we would just need a drum of oil in this instance to test it  - we are not sure if that would be enough. Is a drum of Kerosene enough? Where would we buy a drum of Keronsene? 

Topic by Synergy_12    |  last reply

Can you help me brainstorm a better way to make a vaulting barrel?

Hi, Thanks for your interest.I want to find someone to make a vaulting barrel. What is a vaulting barrel you may ask? It is a "fake horse" used in the sport of equestrian vaulting , which is gymnastics, essentially, on horseback. There are lots of instructions around involving the welding 55 gallon drums, etc. The problem is these barrels are very heavy and unwieldly. I am not persuaded this this is the best design. I am wondering, for example, could they be made from PVC or something else? Is there a better way to attach the padding? Can the handles be removable easily. The legs, adjustable. I would love to figure out a better approach. Here are the specsspecs (PDF) from the American Vaulting Association and here are some picturespictures.I would appreciate any advice. Thanks so much!muggle

Topic by Muggle    |  last reply

Powering a 24 Volt sensor with an arduino? Answered

Hello!   Ok here is the issue. Right now I am designing a rain water collection system by having my down spout drain into a 55 gallon plastic drum. I want to cap the drum to avoid spillage. The problem is what happens when the drum is full and the rain is still coming in. I know there are plenty of mechanical ways to solve this problem but I wanna have fun with an Arduino I have laying around. What I am thinking is run a pipe out of the bottom that has an irrigation valve installed (for anyone who is reading that that isn't aware of what an irrigation valve is, it is and inexpensive solenoid valve that is used for unground sprinkler systems). I figure I will add a water level sensor to the inside of the barrel and then hook the sensor and valve together via my Arduino. From there type a little code and violaa I have an over fill protection device! Here is the problem: An irrigation valve is 24v and the Arduino is 6volts. I know I can get the 24 volts from a power supply down to 6volts via resister, but then how would power the valve? My goal is to NOT have to buy a 12volt 1" solenoid (i didn't want to spend a lot of money on this project). I am not sure if there is a solution to this problem, but being a very green/inexperienced electronics hobbyist figured could hurt to ask. Thanks

Question by Mpc1055    |  last reply

(newsletter) Wi-Fi Bumper Sticker, Valentine's Tentacles, LED Photo Frame

Art | Craft | Food | Games | Green | Home | Kids | Life | Music | Offbeat | Outdoors | Pets | Photo | Ride | Science | Tech Wi-Fi Sensing EL Bumper Sticker 8-Bit Mario Blanket The Girlfriend Nightlight Roman Shade, Insulate a Window Cheap Analog Pressure Sensor LED Photo Frame Turkish Delight (Lokum) Recipe Make Valentine's Tentacles Kakawa Cocoa Beans feature fresh-roasted whole cocoa beans, coated with four different kinds of chocolate. A perfect Valentine's Gift! Taco Pockets Make a Miniature Electric Hub Motor Make a Toothbrush Bracelet Concentric Drilling w/ a Radial Arm Saw Make The Internet (The IT Crowd) PCB Prototyping with a Laser Cutter 10 Minute Dog Boots Domo Kun Night Lamp Guides USB 55 Gallon Drum Computer Recycling and Repurposing Instructables Robot Projects - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA

Topic by fungus amungus  

I need to push a button across a room and I need it wireless....I have a 12v wireless remote already.

Http://;=UTF8&qid;=1334442767&sr;=1-19 ...Here the story.. I have to weigh and fill 55 gl drums at work. My employer placed the scale control across the room. ( I filling 190 proof ethyl Alc.) I need to clear the scale after each drum(which is a push button).-With 4 on a pallet..its not the most efficient system. My wireless remote seem to react quickly with the on button, not so much with the off. --I tried an old lock actuator I had and this would push the button with enough force, but naturally would not return. Any ideas from the pros? Thanks- Josh

Question by Wheredagoldat    |  last reply

House Boat (Suggestions/ideas/brainstorming/etc. I want everyone's opinion)

Okay! Summer project time. I've been collecting acid barrels from my dad's work. Each 55 gallon, plastic drum, is 35 inches high and 24 inches in diameter (90 x 60cm) can hold 460 pounds in fresh water. At the moment, I have 9 barrels. I get another every month, so by mid-springtime, I will have 12 barrels. My question to you, is how would you go about making a house boat, or floating platform. I don't have a specific use for it, just a place to get away with friends or by myself. I would like some kind of canopy. I live about 25 minutes away from the river I plan to set my boat on. A friend of mine has a decent sized trailer, and that is what we would haul it on. My other question is, would I have to have my house boat licensed, or 'labeled' to be legal? Thanks in advance, some sketches would be appreciated. :D

Topic by bumpus    |  last reply

I want to make Compost from a 55 gal plastic barrel that contained "Built Liquid Alkali", if washed will it be usable? Answered

 I recently acquired a couple of blue plastic 55 gallon barrels in the hopes of making my own rotating composter(s) and upon doing some reading via I-net found a lot of people saying "Only use food grade plastic barrels".  The barrels contained "Built Liquid Alkali", which is a silicated alkali builder designed for when combining with laundry detergent it makes for better soil removal and improves whiteness retention. Cautions read: Industrial use only, may cause burns, keep away from eyes mouth and skin. The first aid instructions are to use plenty of water to flush or wash affected area(s), leading me to believe that this is water soluble. I am hoping that possibly using OxyClean or some other suitable cleaner that I can make these barrels usable for what I need them for. If anyone has knowledge on this chemical and can provide some insight it would be most appreciated.

Question by WV_Kokamo_Joe    |  last reply

i'm making a boiler can i use a one way valve? Answered

So i'm trying to make a boiler system so that i can get a little bit of energy back from my forge the idea for the forge is to basically cut open a 55 gallon drum on the bottom flat side and put a forced air pipe in the small orifice normally used as an air hole when dumping the barrel. then i'd cut out the space needed to fit 4 inch stove piping where the larger 2 inch orifice is and carry the exhaust outside and out of mind. then i'd cut a hole in the bottom of the barrel so i can get my work in, put in a steel plate that was cannibalized and drill a few air holes in it, put refractory cement everywhere and bob's your uncle. what i want to do however is to put some water pipe in the fire box and have it turn a turbine or something, i'll cross that particular bridge when i get to it. but the main question is how can i safely store a reservoir of water so that the pipes don't run out of water halfway through a burn cycle? the thought was that i'd invert another 55 gallon barrel and connect it to one end of the pipes with a one way valve. the only question is would the valve guard the second barrel from the pressure generated while still allowing the water to flow in when necessary? or would the barrel just load up with pressure and when i hit 20 psi it just explodes in a hot watery mess? any knowledge about this would be great, stuff like where to get cheap but good pipe in upstate new york, where to get regulators, how to find the valve itself, or even where i can find safety fittings like pressure release valves and temperature control.

Question by waldosan    |  last reply

Rainbarrels- New or Reconditioned? Answered

Greetings! I want to install rain barrels beneath four downspouts. I would also like to be able to use the water for consumption if the need should arise, so I wonder if the "reconditioned" 55 gallon barrels can be cleaned enough for such use, or should I just purchase brand new ones? I can save a lot of money on the reconditioned ones, but if they are going to contaminate the water, I will gladly pay the price for new. Any advice is most appreciated!  -Bradley

Question by RedMayor    |  last reply

Fluid dynamics: can you connect 55-gal barrels in series to lawn sprinklers to circulate and keep emergency water fresh?

I saw several Instructables about how to use barrels to collect and store rain water.  It doesn't rain enough where I live for this to be practical -- however, I have five blue 55 gal barrels that I use to store water for emergencies. I would like to hook all these together with PVC and run my lawn sprinkler system through them, so that the water stays fresh and drinkable. As it stands, I have to store the water with bleach, and dump it all out every 6 months and start all over again. Big waste, and a bigger hassle. Often as not, I am sitting on 275 gallons of undrinkable swamp water at any one moment in time! -- My question concerns the physics surrounding the fluid dynamics. Is this workable -- running PVC between each barrel in series? -- or does that reduce the pressure to zilch at the end, so pressure wouldn't be high enough to water the lawn and garden? Would you have to put a bleeder valve in the top of each barrel so you could completely evacuate all the air? I really hope someone has actually done this, so I don't waste my time and money making something Mr. Wizard would just laugh at!

Question by wobryant    |  last reply

Zero to 300mph in 30 seconds. On two wheels.

Meet the world's fastest ever road vehicle built to reach an astonishing top speed of 340mph.The Acabion GTBO uses jet fighter technology and aerodynamics to reach its extraordinary speed propelled by a state-of-the-art turbo-charged engine.Its designers revealed it could reach 300mph in a blistering 30 seconds - substantially quicker than the rival Bugatti Veyron which takes 55 seconds to reach its top speed of 250mph.Good grief, that would rattle your teeth!The article implies that an electric version is in the pipeline as well.Daily Mail story750 hp and 700 lbs vehicle weight result in more than 2100 hp per ton. They boost the jet-like GTBO to jet-fighter punch and to new dimensions of both efficiency and speed.V-max 340 mph at half throttle, governor limited.0 to 300 mph in less than 30 sec.Economic theories tell us, that you can not maximize effect and minimize effort at the same time. The Acabion GTBO proves the opposite. It minimizes weight and maximizes power and aerodynamic efficiency. The effects are just out of this world.100 mph at 1.7% throttle and 100 miles per gallon.150 mph at 4.3% throttle and 62 miles per gallon.250 mph at 17% throttle and 25 miles per gallon.Acabion websiteMore photos at Jalopnik

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply

Alcohol Fuel Barrel Used for Composting

Hello,I wanted to start my own backyard composting and I looked at a instructable on how to build a tumbling composter and I finally secured a 55 gallon barrel that I could potentially. I was told from a co-worker that the contents of the barrel were only alcohol fuel. Will I be able to use this barrel as my compost barrel and be safe from using the compost in my garden, lawn, flower, etc? I did a bit of research and it seems to be safe as some people have used composting to create alcohol fuel with a distillery. Just want to be absolutely sure and safe before I do anything.Thank you!

Question by Zaxious    |  last reply

How to build a pressurized hot water extraction system at home for extracting mushroom

I am currently looking to build a system that will allow me to boil medecinal mushroom under pressure. Why you ask? Because studies have shown that high temp under normal pressure will destroy the chitin( the building block of mushroom as opposed to cellulose for plants), but will also destroy most of the medecinal compound. What is needed here is a system that can sustain pressure of around 55 psi minimum. My first guess is to get a pressure vessel that can whitstand more than the required 55 psi in order to limit the risk of failure and explosion. See an example here ; do not need more than 1 liter for the pressure vessel but it seams that they don't make them smaller than a gallon. Now the big question is, how do I get the water boiling using one of those tank? I can't just put it on a stove! But if you know of something can could safely reach 55 psi and go on the stove please let me know.Also I was wondering what keeps the pressure inside the container? Does it need a water pump to maintain pressure by pushing more water in the vessel or does it merely builds pressure with steam until it reaches his capacity?Thanks to anyone who's willing to give me some pointer, I truly appreciate.

Question by DominiqueR25    |  last reply

I am looking for advice on thermoforming to make a soaking tub from a 55gal HDPE drum

I thought I could make an inexpensive soaking tub by just fitting up an open top 55 gal plastic drum, but my body will not quite fit when I try to sit in it. I just need a couple more inches for my knees. So after viewing a you-tube on how those barrels are made, I have thoughts that I might be able to re-thermo-form the barrel. The more I think about it, if successful, there are lots of uses. Someone posted that HDPE melts around 265F, so I figure that I could get that air temp easily with a hot air gun, possibly inside the barrel, then using a resealable lid, add air pressure to the barrel and surrounded it with a new rigid mold. If I could figure out how to intrude with parts of the rigid mold, I could even make a seat. As I am imagining, the closer I can get it to the shape of my body in a sitting position, the least amount of water I have to use to fill and heat. And then I could add spray foam to the outside for insulation. Does anyone out their have experience blow molding or other recommendations?

Topic by tesselation  

Anyone achive solar power overnight?

Here is how to do it: Use a standard 55 gallon steel drum and stick one of these on it. Provide water cooling for the TEG: If your water is 20 Celcius, you should pump 36 Litres/hour to keep max power output. Also hook up piping for hot oil for heating Now wrap it with 400 mm of rockwhool insulation. Fill it with molten salt and heat it to 250 Celcius. Tadaa: 24 W of power output, round the clock. (minus the power for the cooling pump, maybe 1-2 W) I calculate that the temperature will drop from 250 to 225 Celcius in 16 hours. To get the temperature back up in 8 hours you need to heat it with 2400 W. You can do this easily with a solar trough system of about 3 m2. A trough is good because you only need to align every few days. Budget Oildrum 50$ ? Salt 370 kg  = 150$? TEG 80$ Cooler 80$ Pump 15$ Piping 100$? Trough (plastic sheet and mylar) 100$? high temperature oil pump 500$ ? About 1000@ total. Does seem like a lot for a little. Anyone have a better idea?

Question by eripe    |  last reply

Pickle Boat with 49cc motor?

Making a pickle boat for the kid.  Boat is made out of PVC and 55 gallon plastic barrel.  I've got a 49cc two stroke engine laying around I want to throw on it.  It's one of those motors that come off a pocket bike or stand up gas scooter. Anyhow, any thoughts on how to use it. I'd like to do a direct drive propulsion setup but I don't know what size propeller I would use. I could make a trolling motor out of it but I don't imagine it would work to well without stalling the motor.  I'm sure it would rust out as well.  So my questions...... 49cc two stroke motor, what size prop do I use for a propulsion (fan) like setup? If I put it under water, what size prop do I use for that?   Links would be amazing.  Thanks guys!

Question by svince1884    |  last reply

Album Review: Timbuk 3 - Greetings From Timbuk 3 (1986) *****

Timbuk 3 - Greetings From Timbuk 3 (1986)NachoMahma's Rating: *****Pat MacDonald - acoustic, electric, bass and MIDI guitars, harmonica, vocals, drum programmingBarbara K. MacDonald - electric guitar, mandolin, violin, rhythm programming, vocals10 Tracks, total time 37:0301 - The Future So Bright I Gotta Wear Shades (3:24)02 - Life Is Hard (4:12)03 - Hairstyles And Attitudes (2:53)04 - Facts About Cats (3:22)05 - I Need You (3:59)06 - Just Another Movie (4:15)07 - Friction (3:46)08 - Cheap Black & White (2:55)09 - Shame On You (5:09)10 - I Love You In The Strangest Way (3:03)Timbuk 3's debut album is quirky, to say the least, but I love it. I think it's the harmonica that does it for me, but the lyrics are exceptional, also.Many of you may remember the opening cut from all the radio play it got (their only song to make the charts), but that's not the only gem here. I give all ten tracks five stars, even "Facts About Cats."

Topic by NachoMahma    |  last reply

(newsletter) Cake Pops, Book Scanner, Office Pranks...

Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! Epilog Challenge - Help choose who wins an Epilog laser cutter! Vote now! Klutz Rubber Band-Powered Contest - What's the best rubber band-powered Instructable of them all? Vote now! Earthjustice United States of Efficiency Contest - Create an energy-saving Instructable and you could win a MacBook Pro! The ThinkGeek Hacks Contest winners have been announced. See who won! Cake Pops Self Watering Garden - Using Recycled Water Steampunk Segway (Legway) DIY High-Speed Book Scanner from Trash Win a MacBook Pro!Closes on May 6! Vote now! Build an Ultra Efficient Fridge Make Delicious Coffee Liqueur Recycled 55 Gallon Barrel Chair Save Water! Kitchen Faucet with Foot Pedal Featured questions from our new Answers section: Physical and electrical engineering. What is a good thing to start with? Can a DC motor from an electric scooter generate power? Homemade Grey Water System Make Killer PCBs Ecological Cardboard Laptop Case Build a Foundry and sand-cast Aluminum Help choose the winners! Sailing the seas for free How to Redecorate the Office ATX Power Supply Mod With USB Ports Make a Female Game Character from Wax Turn an Office into the Beach Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus  

Difference Between Type L vs Type ACR Copper Coil

Hello everyone,    I was hoping someone can share advice, tips etc. I plan on getting 55gal steel drum & turning into wood burning pool heater. My question is about which type copper coil would work best, and still be safe to use. My son has Down syndrome and is very sensitive to cold water. We just spent around $1500 to get pool ready with a installed ramp for his wheelchair. We called few different pool people about a reg heater they want from $2500 to $3700. Mostly cause it would not be easy install lot of things in way, etc etc. oh and then add monthly bill. I don't mind the pool temp but my son does and he truly doesn't ask for anything. And if I could safely get pool warm enough for him then I want to at least try. so we really don't have the extra cash to go "normal" pool heater way but I've watched allot of vids on YouTube where they took a steel 55 gal drum, turned on its side and put the copper coil mounted inside at the top. These people would be able to increase temp by allot. Its labor involved but I'm home anyhow taking care of my son. I'm looking at using about 100ft. I can get 1/2 100ft of Type L $163.00 and Type ACR for $119.00. Anyhow Type ACR is much much cheaper then Type L.  Is there a real big difference? Big enough to spend the extra cash and use Type L, instead. Or Is ACR still safe to use with the pool? I'm not sure which Type L or ACR but I've read it say it's cleaned inside the pipe. Does this matter cleaned vs not cleaned inside pipe for what I would be using for? here link of place I'm getting;=MWP2IDP2PCP Please any info would be greatly appreciated. Truly thanks so much for your time. Thank Lisa

Topic by fst2011    |  last reply

Energy return on investment for various different energy sources

We're used to thinking about the cost per unit of energy (e.g. $/gallon of gasoline) with the implicit assumption that cost is a rough indicator of what is required to obtain that energy. The Oil Drum has a nice piece on Energy Return on Investment (EROI) and the implications of using low EROI energy sources. To dive right in, it's instructive to think about the EROI of domestic oil production as a function of time:100:1 in 193030:1 in 197011-18:1 in 2000EROI on the Web part 2 of 5, (Provisional Results Summary, Imported Oil, Natural Gas)Energy return on investment, sometimes called EROI and sometimes called EROEI, is thought by many, including myself, to be a critical issue for determining the past, present and future status of human society. It is usually considered in terms of energy return on energy investment, but it can also be considered in terms of energy return on monetary investment. While much of human progress has been attributed, rightfully, to technology, much of that technology has been a means of using more energy for human ends. This is true for fire, knife blades and spear points (energy concentrating devices), the development of agriculture and the increase in its productivity and, essentially all aspects of the industrial revolution.EROI is simply the energy delivered by an energy-obtaining activity compared to the energy required to get it. If the numerator and denominator are expressed in the same units (barrels per barrel, MegaJoules per MegaJoule) the result is a dimensionless ratio, i.e. 100:1 or 10:1). Obviously a higher ratio implies a more desirable fuel than a lower one, other things being equal (which is rarely the case). The concept is extremely simple in theory but often very difficult in execution, mostly because society generally maintains its records in monetary rather than energy terms. Another problem is that the U.S. Government has not supported such studies in a consistent fashion and it is my perception that the quality of some energy records as are kept by e.g. the U.S. Departments of Energy and of Commerce appear to be deteriorating in recent years. Thus deriving the energy cost of getting energy (or most other things) is generally somewhat, and oftentimes exceedingly, difficult. A second problem is that the usual measure of the quantity of a fuel, its heat value, often does not give a full assessment of that fuel's ability to do economic or other work. Most simply electricity and thermal heat from e.g. coal or oil have a great difference in their ability to do work, such as we are willing to trade three or four heat units of coal or oil in a thermal plant for one thermal unit of higher quality electricity. Thus if the input and output fuels are of different quality then it is often thought desirable to weight in some way the inputs and the outputs. A third problem is that it is important to consider boundaries: how large should we draw the boundaries of the energy analysis for the inputs? We will consider these issues in far more detail in later publications but there are many reasons why it is important to make summaries of EROI available at this time even though many uncertainties exist in the numbers that we present here, and indeed with any numbers that might be possible to generate.via jforbess

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply

Technology Makes Cheap Drinking Water from Air

INTRODUCTION:   How can we best apply basic technology to help the underprivileged and/or disaster-hit countries like Haiti? Daily hygiene and nourishment are among the top needs for disaster ridden regions!  Simply put, no water means no hygiene. The Romans understood that over two millennia ago and created their complexly beautiful aqueduct networks for handling both fresh and wastewater! Other ingenious water systems like “air wells” have been found in the city of Theodosia (cf: discovered in 1900 by Zibold, see Zibold’s Collectors/Dehumidifiers) dating back to Greco-Roman times during the Byzantine Empire. These were strictly passive systems that naturally dehumidified air, collecting its potable water in underground basins. All air, even in relatively dry desert regions, will precipitate or release its natural water content (initially in the form of vapor) through condensation when it hits its dew-point temperature and below. That means you “chill” it to an appropriate level that is anywhere from 5F to 50F below its current air temperature, depending upon how much water content (relative humidity) it has locally absorbed. The condensation of the water vapor releases its internal latent heat (reheating the cooled air) which must be constantly dissipated (absorbed by something) in order for water formation to steadily continue. So how do we dissipate this resultant vapor-heat and chill our air without any infrastructure or electricity, in an underprivileged or disaster-ridden region? We simply bury a long cast-iron or any metallic drain-pipe sufficiently underground where the temperature of the earth is naturally held to a constant at around 45F to 55F. That’s our “free” chiller gift from nature. One end of the pipe, Figure-1,  sticks out of the ground to suck-in local outside hot air, and the other end dumps cooled dry air and water into an underground cistern where it gets collected and is piped to the surface to both exhaust the cooled dry air and connect to a water pump. We need a hand operated water pump to lift up the water above ground, and we need an electric fan to constantly pump air through the ground-chilled piping system. We can even force the cooled piped air to exhaust into a tent-like structure where it provides air conditioning as an added bonus, but this adds the penalty of both power and the increased fan size necessary to drive our required airflow further into an enclosure! While this concept is not “passive” (requiring electricity to work) like those clever Byzantine air-wells, it will produce much more potable water and within a smaller volume than those elegantly passive historic devices. The electricity for our fan power requirements can be produced by any one of four ways using either “active” or “passive” techniques: 1) An active playground or bike-pedaling-person or oxen-driven mechanism-generator, 2) A passive windmill generator, 3) A passive solar energy collection system that directly generates electricity, or 4) A passive thermo-electric system that directly generates electricity using the Peltier effect, operating solely on temperature differences between the cell’s top and bottom surface (we jury-rig the cool pipe and hot ambient air to contact separate sides of the cell). Depending upon how much water is needed, the required air volume plus pipe length and diameter, together with the fan will be sized accordingly. We can also configure groups of parallel fan-driven air pipes that are radially fed into the cistern. The sizing of this underground network depends upon the ambient air’s local average temperature and relative humidity (how much water gets absorbed into the air) plus buried pipe depth and effective underground temperatures achieved. The basic concept is one where we “wring” water from air at some given humidity content. The higher its relative humidity the more water is recovered from the air. The air-wringing process simply chills the air as it scrubs along the cooled internal pipe surface until it starts to rain inside the pipe from condensation onto its surface. The condensation is like the dew that forms on car windows, grass or any cooled surface in the early morning, before the sun comes out and evaporates the dew back into the heating air. A further bonus is that our dew-formed water is naturally distilled and very clean. It is potable water ready to drink without the need for additional sterilizing agents. Of course, we must make sure that the interior piping and cistern network is biologically cleansed before burying it underground. The hand pump with its 10 to 15 foot extended piping to reach the underground cistern must also be cleansed. The beauty of this constantly replenishable water supply is its convenient underground installation anywhere! After the in-ground installation, we have a virtual, partially passive, no moving parts, non-breakdown system containing above ground total access to all moving parts that could breakdown, namely the water pump and electric fan. Also, it is easily maintained, with few moving parts (water hand-pump and electric fan) and basically lacking any technical complexity which makes it ideal for technologically backward regions. The example below uses a relatively small industrial fan moving air at 1500 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) with a DC motor rated at 1kW. This fan together with our underground piping system will conservatively generate 12 GPH (Gallons Per Hour) of potable drinking water without need for any purification chemistry. Based on an average electrical cost of 14-cents per kWh (kilo-Watt hour), the typical commercial distillation of one gallon of drinking water costs roughly 35-cents as compared to our cost of only 1.2-cents. Furthermore, if we decide to go green and use solar energy for generating our water, it would effectively cost us nothing beyond the initial installation! USING A PSYCHROMETRIC CHART TO SIZE OUR WATER SUPPLY: The following gets a little technical and is only provided for those die-hards who are truly interested in how the science works. Those non-technically schooled may skip this part and not miss the basic concept. Figure-2 shows a Psychrometric Chart for air. This chart summarizes some of the basic thermodynamic properties of air throughout its typical range of operating temperature. The chart uses six basic air properties that defines the physical chemistry of water evaporation into air:  (1) the enthalpy or total energy contained within a unit of air which is a combination of its internal and external energy, expressed as the amount of BTU-energy per unit mass of reference dry-air, (2) the specific volume or the ratio of a unit volume of local air to its mass of reference dry-air, (3) the humidity ratio or the amount (mass) of moisture in a local unit of air divided by its reference mass of dry-air, (4) the percent relative humidity per unit of local air, or the mass ratio (expressed in percentage form) of the partial pressure of water vapor in the air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at those conditions (the relative humidity depends not only on air temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest),  (5) the dry-bulb temperature or the locally measured air temperature, and (6) the wet-bulb temperature or saturation temperature which is the local air temperature experienced during constant water evaporation (a wet-bulb thermometer is typically used:   a thermometer that measures resultant temperature while wrapped in a water wet-gauze and spun to generate local air movement and max-evaporation)  1.0   The Process and A Sample Calculation Our Psychrometric Chart uses six thermodynamic properties that help to determine the amount of water available for extraction from the local ambient air as a function of its temperature, pressure and relative humidity.  Let’s assume the following local ambient conditions for the region we plan to construct our water system at:  (1) Typical daily air temperature Td = 106F and one atmosphere pressure assumed at sea-level, (2) Relative Humidity, RH = 55%, and (3) Typical underground temperature down at six feet is measured at Tu=55F (at 12ft. it drops to ~45F). This yields the following calculated results for obtaining a steady-state supply (changes at night) of water to fill the cistern:      1)      In our example, the “local” air (dry-bulb) temperature is Td=106F, at a relative humidity of RH= 55%.  Fig-2 indicates that the resultant Humidity Ratio is HR= 0.0253 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air (intersection of Td=106F line and RH=55% line, then horizontal to HR value).  We then determine the “gulp” of air volume containing the HR Lbs-water which corresponds to the point of intersection of Td and RH. Interpolating on specific volume “mv” yields mv=14.7 ft3/Lb-Dry-Air (this value sets the optimum unit airflow for our given ambient conditions, and creates a ballpark pipe length to diameter ratio needed later). It represents the basic unit of air volume that will enter our underground pipe per given time, and ultimately defines the size of our fan and piping network. For increased water creation, multiples of this unit volume will scale up the additional amounts of water that can be collected. 2)      As the inlet air cools down to a temperature of Tu=55F, from contact with the relatively cold underground pipe, we follow the constant enthalpy line (red upward left-diagonal) from the intersection of Td and RH to its saturated air temperature condition of Ts= ~88F, which is its dew-point temperature where the corresponding local RH=100%.  At this temperature or under, the air precipitates and releases its moisture content, resulting in water condensation onto the pipe walls.  Since our air will chill to a final pipe temperature of Tu=~55F, we follow the RH=100% saturated curve (green) down to yield an HR=~0.009 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air. This is how much water is left in the air when it gets to 55F.  Therefore for every pound of local outside air that enters the pipe, mw=0.0253 – 0.009 = 0.0163 pounds of absolute pure, distilled potable water precipitates onto the inside pipe wall (per pound of dry air that is cooled and dehydrated) to gravity-flow out the pipe exit and into the cistern. 3)      We now convert pounds of air per unit time into a unitized volumetric airflow that yields gallons of hygienically pure potable water production per unit time. For every Va=100 ft3 of local volumetric air movement per minute (CFM) through the pipe, which translates into ma=Va/mv= 100/14.7 = 6.8 lbs. of dry air per minute or 6.8 * 60 = 408 lbs. per hour (PPH), to yield a water-flow of mwf=ma * mw = 408 * 0.0163 = 6.65 PPH or 6.65/8.345 = 0.8 GPH of water.  An industrial fan rated at 1kW DC will typically move 1500 CFM at a pressure of 8-iwc, to continuously produce 15 * 0.8 = 12 GPH of pristine potable water. 4)      Not shown here are the design details of sizing our pipe, fan and solar collection system for electric power requirements using heat transfer principles coupled with a thermodynamic heat balance, and aerodynamic fan performance assessment. These details help to size the electric power generation requirements plus margin used to properly size a solar collector containing further margins for overcast days. The engineering involved here is straight forward but beyond the scope of the current project.

Topic by RT-101    |  last reply