Search for Adhesive questions in Topics


Simple, speaker question. Answered

Hello, All I want to do is create a very low, and reasonably audible hum or drone from this speaker ; about as loud as a person humming as hard as they can before their throat hurts and they start coughing. Is it possible to avoid an amplifier and just run a voltage into it so that it just makes a single tone as described ? If so: I found this big broken speaker in the road. As you can see, the Cone is missing a section, but the surround and spider are intact. The cone is credit card thickness plastic. Is it feasible to just patch it up with some similar plastic and contact adhesive; it does not have to be a good sound, just a drone. I realise that my grasp of electronics is child like and readily accept the impending abusive comments and links to the Google homepage. Thank you  FOH

Question by FriendOfHumanity    |  last reply


What is Polyurethane Construction Adhesive? (DIY Clamp Question)?

I'm building a wooden clamp, and I've seen people use Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, and I don't know exactly what it is. Of course it's an adhesive, but I can't seem to find the properties that define it... I also know that it's really expensive, and has a very short shelf life, so I want to maximize my use out of it, if I buy it. Is it sticky, before and when cured? When cured, is it brittle like super glue? Hard like epoxy? Fairly soft like Hot-Glue, or very soft like silicone adhesive? Does it adhere better than most epoxies to wood metal? Do you think it could glue a threaded to rod to a wooden handle strong enough on a homemade clamp? Is it the expanding glue? Do most types stink like crazy? (worse than most Epoxies) Do you think it is worth the price? Is it that much better than Epoxy? Thanks!

Question by Yonatan24    |  last reply


Questions about Homemade stickers

Hello fellow craftsmen! I have a few questions I'd like to get some clarification on if anyone has tried the Instructable by SirBrittanicvs for Homemade stickers. 1. Can this instructable be applied to pencil/pen drawings without distorting the image? Or must the stickers be printed out by the printer? I'm just worried that the pictures will get smudged do to the mixture of glue and vinegar. 2.) After appliying the adhesive to the paper how long can the stickers be stored before the adhesive is ineffective? There was another question I wanted to ask, but I cannot remember it at the moment. But I appreciate any further assistance with this Instructable before I begin and mess something up, haha. Happy New Year everyone!

Topic by Energyzed    |  last reply


Safe adhesive/sealant for coating flash drives?

I've sen a few Instructables on modding your USB flash drives, and was plan on modding one of mine. I've ordered some Bullet Bill toys and have an old flash drive ready to go. I figure "liquid electrical tape" would be the best option for filling the gaps and sealing the drive into the toy, but are there any safe cheaper options? I don't know if it's relevant (I know bugger all about electronics), but here's a picture of the flash drive in question:

Question by Shampyon    |  last reply


Best adhesive for attaching plywood to flashing? Edit?

The question pretty much says it all. I'm looking to attach plywood strips to a sheet of metal flashing. There is no place for screws or other physical methods of attachment. I have never used adhesives that much so I'm not really sure what would be the best for me to use. Thank you in advance!!!

Question by SOLRUK    |  last reply


Gluing PVC sheet: Can you identify 'this' glue? Answered

I am gluing black pvc sheet - I presume its pvc, although not 100% certain, it has that distinctive 'new beach ball' smell to it.  I'm prototyping right now, and I want to do more stuff like this - and will likely post an instructable - trouble is it walks a fine line of 'family friendly'/sfw. Either way; I used Lepage Flexible Plastic adhesive.  It worked quite well, and has proven to be quite strong and flexible so far...Works like a contact cement, but stays very flexible.  No mention on the packaging exactly what type of glue it is though.  My question:  What type of glue is this?  Characteristic acetone volatile smell, works like contact cement.  Package says apply, let dry to touch ~10-30 minutes then close surfaces.  I find it's dry to the touch within a minute or three. (extremely dry climate + warm room I was working in). Rationale:  It's expensive, 4 bucks for 30mL, and I'd rather have a can-container to dip a brush in.  At the hardware store they have plain-ol contact cement, but the transparent/flexible aspect of this is must. Thanks in advance!

Question by frollard    |  last reply


Epoxy vs resorcinol or other adhesives for boat building

I've been a big fan of epoxy for a long time. It's been recommended to me as the best glue ever, and lately as a great/durable coating to be used like paint. It's so popular that companies are starting to market things as epoxies that might be related but, really are something else. FYI anything sold as a "one part epoxy" is not an epoxy at all. it's something else. Epoxies must be 2 part.My father started building wooden model sailboat, and wanted to use Resorcinol. What?? Never heard of it. can't be good. must be toxic. use epoxy, Dad. Lately, I've heard differently, with some caveats.This was mentioned on www.woodenboat.com forums:http://www.cpadhesives.com/media/ClassicBoatAppendix.pdfThe upshot is that epoxy bond strength weakens dramatically with exposure to heat or (maybe?) saltwater or UV light. Additionally, epoxy's bond is not as fatigue resistant as wood. So using it as a structural bond is questionable. Using it in hot (120F+) environments is questionable. Using it in saltwater environments is questionable.Since boats sit in the sun, tend to flex, and are often exposed to saltwater, how can we possibly use epoxies in long term situations.I had to search hard to find any info on Resorcinol, but it's cheaper, supposedly lasts longer. But, as far as I can tell, it's really hard to find. Comments?

Topic by danlocks    |  last reply


Outside mosaic questions: What is the strongest/best adhesive for outside mosaics ?

Hi , I want to do some outside mosaics on different materials : cement, wood and bowling balls. Much of what I would like to use in my mosaics is glass. Is there antway to permanently affix glass"pebbles" to a bowling ball ? What is the best grout to use? Many thanks to anyone who can help.

Question by Silversharrar    |  last reply


ABS Slury

I have a question for any of you that are using an abs slury for adhesion on you printer bed. How thick should it be? Water thin or honey like? TIA Curt

Topic by CurtWG    |  last reply


Pasting luggage labels to a leather suitcase

Hi everyone, Looking for a bit of advice, I found an old cow hide suitcase and bought some vintage style adhesive luggage labels. Only question is how to I stop them peeling off. Can I varnish over the whole thing? If so what kind of varnish? I’m worried about damaging the already pretty shabby leather case. Is there a special kind of adhesive I should have used rather than relying on the stickiness of the labels?

Question by KateH56    |  last reply


Instructable on electroplated circuit boards?

I managed to plate a copper trace onto piece of acryllic today, to test out a process for easily and cheaply making (and possibly editing/repairing) custom PCBs. The adhesion appears to be good for surface preparation used so far, and a nice thick track has formed. So, would it be worth uploading an instructable once the process has been refined a little (or enough to make simple boards properly)? Any questions, feedback or comments would be appreciated.

Topic by The Skinnerz    |  last reply


Will varnishing a paper mural cause the ink from image to bleed and ruin everything? Answered

Hello all! so i've been planning an awesome mural project for my new apartment, but i have a few questions to resolve before i can proceed.. first, i was going to use 3M's super 77 spray adhesive to fix it to the wall..terrible idea? second, i've heard of people using some sort of varnish to seal things and protect them from damage, possibly even make it easier to clean..my only question is whether or not this could cause the ink from the paper to bleed, thereby ruining everything and causing me to descent into a childlike rage? i should mention that i was planning on rasterbating an image to create the mural and then having it printed at a copy centre somewhere. does paper and printer type (laser vs. inkjet) make a difference in terms of varnishing potential?thanks! :D?

Question by Pushnik89    |  last reply


What mysterious force holds the plastic pizza signage to the top of this moving car? Answered

The attached photo was taken recently at an undisclosed location, somewhere in the Former United States (FUS). In it you can see a plastic sign-thingy on top of a moving car. My question is this: What mysterious forces keep the plastic sign-thingy from sliding off the car due to the effects of wind and inertial pseudoforces. What holds the sign to the top of the car? Is it powerful magnets? Double-sided sticky tape? Is it perhaps... love? Has anyone seen one of these artifacts up close, and/or knows for sure what the physical mechanism is?

Question by Jack A Lopez    |  last reply


packaging hack

My question is: how can I open a sealed toy package without damaging the package and in such a way that I may reassemble it after I’ve used the contents. Background: I am in the process of making a Super 8 film. One of my props are 3 Star Trek Borg action figures. I paid a pretty penny for them and only need to use them for a few scenes. When I am finished I want to put them back in the package and resell on eBay. Of course, I will give full disclosure to next buyer. The packaging is not true blister pack. It has a printed cardboard back with a molded plastic cover. I appears to be heat pressure sealed, probably with some sort of adhesive. I can provide digital pics when needed.

Topic by kentek    |  last reply


Funky cabinet drawer pulls

Hi, I am in the process of re-doing my kitchen and I have need for about 40 cabinet pulls/knobs. I want something interesting and am leaning towards an existing flat-top pull/knob and affixing 1/2" glass squares to it.  The pull/knob I'm considering is 1/2" wide and 4 3/4" length. Questions: Would Expoxy be the best adhesive? What could I do that would make the pull/knob smooth so that the cracks between the pieces of glass don't cut any fingers?  Is resin a possibility? You Instructable-ites are so smart and creative, I can't imagine getting a more creative answer from anywhere else Help!!

Topic by LStephens2    |  last reply


Using an inkjet to print water based glue?

I am thinking about playing with an inkjet printer to print 3d sand casting molds. To save time, I won't be too specific in my design, but I basically want to modify an inkjet to print a water based glue onto layers of sand to create sand casting molds like the 3d printer in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8MaVaqNr3U Someone also made a crude version of what I want in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nbtZOolSIY&feature;=player_embedded My theory is that if an inkjet printer heats up the water in the ink creating a bubble of steam to push the rest of the ink out, wouldn't the same concept apply to a water based glue if you put that in the inkjet? So here are my questions: 1) Would it be possible to put water based glue in an inkjet and have it print it? 2) Are water based glues are ok to use in sand casting molds? Tell me what you think and thanks for your input. 

Topic by sourcesmith    |  last reply


WHAT GIVES WHERES MY FLOPPY THREAD?!?

Sorry folks looks like the server screwed up my posting and i'll have to post my idea for home brewed 5.25in floppies all over again (the post eventually appeared several hours later so i deleted it) ok so where to start (*light bulb appears over head*) i got it if you have a 5.25in floppy get it out and look at it you'll notice that its pretty simple the first part you will notice is the plastic envelope enclosure thing which is just a single piece of folded plastic with some holes cut in it, just below the surface of the enclosure is a fabric or paper dust trap that keeps the disk debris free and finally comes the hard part the disk each disk has 3 components the iron oxide powder, the disk, and the binding glue stuff the holds the powder to the disk. now here is my crude theoretical unproven construction process 1. cut out the enclosure(i'm thinking a material like plastic card stock might work) (probable impossible by hand put it under a laser cutter or watter jet if you have one) 2.use 8 dabs of glue to glue the dust trap in place on the side of the enclosure that will come in contact with the disk 3.spray some adhesive onto the disk and bury it in iron oxide powder 4.remove the excess powder and spray it again with adhesive 5.carefully put the disk in the enclosure and fold the enclosure around it gluing the enclosure shut 6.stick it in your floppy drive and format it i'll have time to try this myself this summer until then feel free the criticize and question my sanity just PLEASE don't suggest buying disks from e-bay, thrift stores, flee markets, online, or any where else for that matter

Topic by clasic_traveller_diehard    |  last reply


Chinchilla-safe material for food-bowl

My chinchilla is, for the most part, a jerk. She is adorable, though, so I'll keep her. I can keep up with all of the ways she tries to antagonize me (I've come to the realization that she really is out to get me :P ), except for one. She often pushes her food bowl off of the ledge. I would move it to a lower area in her cage, but, as I came to realize the first time, she poops into the bowl when it's below her. So, I must keep it on this ledge. I therefore need a way to attach and un-attach the bowl to the cage (so I can fill it with food afterwords). I could just go and buy one of these food-bowls,  but I'm too cheap and like to make my own stuff, anyways. So I have two questions - what material would be best for attaching it to the cage, and would hot glue work as an adhesive? I am worried about her gnawing on the stuff, because I know certain things can kill her if she eats them (eg: Paint). Thanks! :)

Topic by freethetech  


how do I get an electronic device made?

Hi folks, I am new to this forum so please ignore and naivity / stupidty on my part and I hope this is the right place to ask this type of question. I need help and am appealing to anyone who knows anything about getting an Electronic Device Made. Basically, I require a Bi-Directional People Counter to put in the doorways of venues to count footfall in and out of a given location. It needs to be wireless (Battery operated), easily attached to a doorway/entrance (adhesively) so light weight and able to transmit the data back to our servers (probably via the venue wireless). I have an idea about what type of sensor I need (PIR) and the basic components within the device like battery, circuit board, wireless transmitter etc and I know I will require some sort of algorithm to aggregate/calculate the data and send it back to our servers. My problem is that I am not an engineer and can obviously only get so far and I don't know what to do next. From my research it would seem I need to get an Industrial Designer and a Manufacturing Engineer but both of these seem to be further down the process than what I need first. What I need is; 1. someone (an expert) who can understand the business problem I have and create the electronic device to solve it. Ie. design the circuit, tell me what type of battery I need, what type of sensors we should be using, code the algorithm to make it work and what the subsequent output of their design will be etc and for them to then produce these designs, PCB, Bill of Materials etc. 2. someone I can then take that data to and tell them to make it look pretty (presumably the Industrial Designer) by designing the case/aesthetics etc 3. to then have all the required information (functional designers / circuitry, mould/casing etc) to take to a manufacturer to put the final product together, ready for sale. Does anyone know what type of company or person I should be talking to for each phase? What are people called that do phase 1 that I outlined? Basically, I think I know what I need in terms of technology and its capabilities but I now need a professional/expert to take over to make it a reality. Any help or advice on this would be hugely appreciated as I'm getting a bit muddled and would love some clarity on the process so I can move forward in which ever direction is now appropriate? Thanks all!

Topic by jonkrug    |  last reply


Cleaning up STL files for 3D printing properly?

Every now and then I find a nice model on Thingiverse or such places that I would like to print.Quite often though these models come with errors.No clue why people upload them for 3D printing if the printing software can't print them....Anyway, there are quite a few online place that fix a model and make it watertight, remove flipped faces and more.Usually with quite good results unless the model is really crappy.What I miss though is a program or online service, preferably free of course, that can actually simplyfy a model to match a printers capabilities.For example a scanned object of just a few cm in size can come with over 100mb in file size with ease.There are programs able to modify a mesh, shrink it or even reduce the triangle count.However those usually still fail to address the problem at hand.Required details go missing and sometimes entire shapes change in important spots.A normal FDM printer comes with a 0.4mm nozzle and is capable of 0.1mm layer hieght with realitve ease.There must be program or service that utilises this properly to create new and in size reduced model.It is just a total pain to use 3 or 4 different programs to modify a simple lithopane just to get some custom text onto the stand.Same for creating multiple print jobs for it as it often results in bad adhesion.What I really would I guess is something where you enter your prefered layer height and max resolution based on nozzle size to get an optimised STL in return.I know your nagging question already: Why bother?1. If you have a STL file of less than 1mb and make some simple modifications with Blender, Meshmixer or whatever, then you can end with a file of way more than 20mb in size and with a complexity that was nowhere in the original."Fixing" a bad file with these apps is easy but again result in massive file sizes or massive loss of detail.2. Mechanics...It really makes no sense at all trying to make your printer create structures finer than 0.2mm - you just won't see it with your naked eye anyway.Especially complex, scanned objects often result in perimeters that enlarged look like someone was holding a running jack hammer while making the perimeter.In return your printer can create quite similar sounds and most importantly the print time goes up for no good reason at all.3. I just prefer simple and clean models.I want to be able to make simple adjustments to a simple object without the need for 32GB of RAM and a server tower to house several CPU's.Is there any such app or service already out there and I just missed it?

Question by Downunder35m