Search for Clamp in Topics

I am extremely close to finishing Grathio's Secret Knock Detecting Door Lock (https://www.instructables.com/id/Secret-Knock-Detecting-Door-Lock/). I am about to mount to my door, but unfortunately the clamp (step 3) has not been working out for me, and in no way will the motor be strong enough to turn the lock. Any other suggestions on how to hook up the motor to the door? FYI: my casing is entirely different from that of his instructions. Thank you!

Here is an idea for quick ratchet clamp, suggestions regarding which material best suitable for this clamp are welcome.

The picture below shows a wire clamp which allows the wire to move in one direction only. to release the wire to the opposite direction one  has to push the small metal valve as marked with an arrow in the picutre below. I need to know what it is called ? thank you

Hi,Myself Viraj from Mumbai India. I am Chartered Accountants and have interest in building new innovative problem solving things. I need to build a robotic arm that can clamp itself to any thin material (like wood, glass etc.) and with it's arm clean the surface with water/soap if required. it should be able to move sideways on it's own fixing the clamp as required. It should move sideways to specific distance only and this distance can be inputted through any possible means.Can anyone help with this?Thanks in advanceViraj

It seems to be an adjustable clamp for two similar sized objects. The material is 1 inch wide stainless steel strip.

I need to squeeze a 3" pipe tightly. A hose clamp would be ideal except it won't grab tightly enough without popping loose. A bicycle seatpost clamp would be good but those are too small. I'm trying to repair a bit of bamboo that has two cracks. I'm planning to put epoxy in the crack and squeeze it shut. Is there some sort of pipe clamp that would do this? Ideally the tool would be gentle on the bamboo's surface so I wouldn't have to pad it much. Much obliged.

My grandparents are moving, and are organizing stuff... I just found an antique bar clamp (An ELZETT, a bit smaller than that one though). The sliding arm/jaw wouldn't slide on the bar, so I removed the rust. The sliding jaw wouldn't lock onto the bar when I tightened it. I tried enlarging the grooves/notches that were on the bar with a hacksaw, but that didn't really help.  Does anyone have an idea for making it lock/catch on the bar? My grandpa might have several more of these clamps! Drilling holes into the bar and adding a removable pin - no, because this steel is really hard and I'd go through 10 drill bits. The only thing I can think of is to take it apart, and use the hardware for a homemade wooden clamp. But I think it would be easier to start from scratch... I really want to fix this clamp! The quality of old tools, throat depth of this clamp, the screw, the swiveling pad - I need these! Thanks!

I have a thick horizontal cylinder. I want to clamp a thinner vertical cylinder so it's sitting on top of it. This must be a very strong attachment that could handle a lot of weight and wouldn't slip off, but it must also be easily removed. Any ideas? Thanks!

I have one of those handy articulated-arm magnifier lamps but the TOTALLY CHEAP INADEQUATE CRAPPY clamp base not only broke but gouged my desk as it did. I have beginner woodworking skills and tools; can someone make an Instructable on building a better replacement? The lamp and the arms and everything are fine, it was just the cheap plastic clamp that broke.

Looking to make some stuff but don't really have access to a workshop. Not so much of a problem tool wise, all I really need as a drill and a hacksaw, but will definitely be needing a medium size bench vice. Don't have one, can't afford one. So was thinking to somehow convert one or two G clamps or something similar. Was wondering if there's any existing resources or tutorials on how to do this, just so I don't unnecessarily reinvent any wheels. ta.

You see, I need to do a robotic clamp for a teddy bear machine, I need the clamp to Open and close in order to grab a teddy bear, thanks for the help

I am trying to figure out how to construct my own Wimberly clamp style flexible clamp for macro photography and for holding reflectors etc. The US McClamp range look great but I can't afford the shipping fees! I can get hold of individual A clamps but need to get flexible stuff to connect them so I can clamp one end to a table or tripod leg and the other to hold a plant stem or reflector in place.  It needs to be be sturdy enough to use outside in a breeze. Any tips for where to get stuff and how I can put clamps together (I'm UK based)?

Has anyone any suggestions for a tool which would be "like" a camera iris, with a hole several mm long, but which can be varied in diameter from 1 (0.040 ") to 0.2mm (0.008"). I need to set the diameter fairly carefully, to just gently pinch a bundle of 70micron (0.0029"") optical fibres passed down the centre. The hole needs to be very circular and rigid, even as its closing...... Something kind of like the mechanism of a "pin-chuck" suggests itself, but wouldn't be very round in the limit. Any ideas ? Steve

⁽ᴿᵉᵖᵒˢᵗᶦᶰᵍ ᵗʰᶦˢ ʰᵉʳᵉ, ˢᶦᶰᶜᵉ ᴵ ᵍᵒᵗ ᶰᵒ ʳᵉᵖᶫᶦᵉˢ ᶦᶰ ᵗʰᵉ ᴬᶰˢʷᵉʳˢ ˢᵉᶜᵗᶦᵒᶰ⋅⋅⋅⁾ I just found an antique bar clamp (An ELZETT, a bit smaller than that one though). I've removed most of the rust, but: The sliding jaw doesn't lock onto the bar when I tighten the clamp. It looks like The notches were very shallow/small, to begin with, and they've worn out quite a bit. I tried enlarging the grooves/notches that were on the bar with a hacksaw, but that didn't really help. Does anyone have an idea for making it lock/catch on the bar? My grandpa might have several more of these clamps, and I don't want them to go to waste! Drilling holes into the bar and adding a removable pin - no, because this steel is really hard and I'd go through 10 drill bits! How about building some type of wooden cage around it that will hold it in place? The only thing I can think of is to take it apart, and use the hardware for a homemade wooden clamp. But I think it would be easier to start from scratch... I really want to fix this clamp! The quality of old tools, throat depth of this clamp, the screw, the swiveling pad - I need these! Thanks!

The meter showed up today from UPS. It has a wireless display (attached or detached) ,  1K A ac/dc current measurement at the jaw, current probes which measure to 2.5 k A Here are some pictures.

I'm building a wooden clamp, and I've seen people use Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, and I don't know exactly what it is. Of course it's an adhesive, but I can't seem to find the properties that define it... I also know that it's really expensive, and has a very short shelf life, so I want to maximize my use out of it, if I buy it. Is it sticky, before and when cured? When cured, is it brittle like super glue? Hard like epoxy? Fairly soft like Hot-Glue, or very soft like silicone adhesive? Does it adhere better than most epoxies to wood metal? Do you think it could glue a threaded to rod to a wooden handle strong enough on a homemade clamp? Is it the expanding glue? Do most types stink like crazy? (worse than most Epoxies) Do you think it is worth the price? Is it that much better than Epoxy? Thanks!

I am working on a project where I want to be able to paint with 5 brushes of different sizes simultaneously. For this, I need to build a device that can hold 5 paintbrushes together, one next to another with a 0.5 inch gap between them (so the bristles don't overlap). My challenge so far is to find a clamp or material that can adjust to various sizes of handles while keeping everything still when I push down to paint.  I have tried to poke the brushes through a piece of foam but they will slip and go through (depending on the shape of the brush). Someone suggested duct tape but I'd like this device to be reusable and easy to change between brushes.  Basically, can anyone suggest an adjustable clamp or some better material that can fit various diameters and hold still?

My Xbox 360 is having a problem that causes it to freeze up, (in a sense). I can hear, what sounds like the drive, make a clicking sound. Then after a number of clicks, a window pops up saying that it cannot read the disc, that it is dirty. The disc is clean. I also had the three ring problem, which I just recently fixed by fixing the x-clamp problem. Does anyone know what my problem could be?

The clamps are secretly table legs. Clamp four of them onto a scrap piece of wood and PRESTO! it's a table! A great temporary solution before you put the real legs on, because who wants clamps in their living room? Link

Anyone have any clue what this tool was used for or what it is called?  It was found in the dirt on a farm.  I will attempt to describe as best as I can hoping that this will help after you see the pictures.  It looks like the main piece is like a large needle with an eye at the one end and a point at the other.  Then there is a curved hook sideways to the main piece (see the shadow on my leg).  The hole/open portion in the middle appears to be some sort of clamp.  When you press on the tab piece that is closer to the eye, the hole opens up, releases the pressure on whatever may be inside the hole. 

I currently produce worked bone items for the re-enactor market, and would like a clamp that holds items from 3-4mm securely, but won't be assaulted by authenticity specialists for trying to use.

The link below is a clamp that holds the engine on a weedeater bike. the good thing about this clamp is that you dont have to permanantly keep the motor fixed on the rear tire. you can cycle on flat roads and when nearing uphill, you can engage the motor with just one push of the clamp handle.    can someone with a mechanical knowledge make a video on how to make this clamp https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZCfYu7e730

I'm weaving Nitinol wire so I have a square piece of plywood with the shape that I'm weaving around placed in the center and the bundle of .7mm Nitinol wire is emanating also from the center.  For clamps I used speaker posts that have hand-rotatable post "screw-collars" and are gold-plated.  However they're really hard to work with and to mount.  They're great because they also have a high-current screw-in wire junction in the back.   Anyway, what alternatives can you think of while requiring a hand-turnable release and clamp of the Nitinol wires (so plain terminal blocks won't work unless you also found a screw with a handle that fits).  There will be about 20-100 small wires used in the bundle to weave the shape.  And the board is about 30cm sq. at the moment so more likely there will be only 20, in order to fit the wire clamps unless you know of a micro method, such as: copper tubes and "nails", which might work now that I think of it...

Ok so i bought some xbox's with the intention of fixing and selling them. they all have 3 red rings. i have tried using a hot air gun to reflow the board but it hasn't worked. i also added in bolts and plastic/ metal washers to all of them but still nothing. one of them turns on then beeps and goes to 3 red lights. another one goes on for about 20 seconds (with no picture or sound) then goes to 3 red lights. the other one just has 3 red lights. i was wondering what else i can do? thanks

I am trying to fix my RRoD xbox and I can't figure out what kind of screw to use... It might help if I knew what the difference in them were.... I am american and metric makes no scene to me... 5x20MM Panhead Machine Screw 3/16" x 1/2" Panhead Machine Screws 12mm Cheese Head Screws Bonus points if you can find the kind of screw that Microsoft uses and the diameter and thread count, i know for the x-clamp fix it must be 1/2" in length.  Thanks...

Getting laptop to stream to ecm in car

Not long ago I got an email from Howcast telling me that they want to make a video of my Film Canister LED Flashlight... That was about more than 2 months ago...I search Howcast every day looking for the video but it didn't appear... I found only these instructions on how to make the flashlight... No Video !?!?! http://www.howcast.com/guides/2701-How-To-Make-a-Film-Canister-LED-FlashlightWell, check it out, please leave a comment there and here, tell me what you think about it...Thanks! Stanislav

I have one of the above trailers, the ball hitch should be secured to the cycle saddle clamp, however I am unable to re sucure the clamp tight enough to stop the saddle rotating and the saddle dropping down. I have seen a clamp which secures to the actual seat post and the ball hitch is secured to that, i am unable to locate such a clamp, I am sure someone will know or can help me find this item. I am having to use my trailer as a hand cart at present for going to the allotment each day. Please help if you can. Thank you Joanna

Please comment or make an Instructable on how i can make a clamp-on mill attachment for the drill press below?

I own a ludwig cs accent custom. I'd like to mount the mid tom next to the floor tom. Is it possible to mount without a clamp? If not what clamp would you use? Thanks

After applying the X-clamp fix (Just like the tutorial) comming to the part of overheating the Xbox. The 3 lights wont change in 2 lights (i'm running it over a hour now). Whats the solution?

Hi, I'm kind of new to this and don't know what I want, but can describe it.  I'm looking for a small, inexpensive device that will turn a battery off and on.  I have a battery powered electromagnet that moves a clamp.  I want to make something like Clamps from Futurama where the clamp just opens and closes on its own about once every two seconds.  I've got the battery, battery cover, and wire leads on that end.  I've got the clamp, wires, and normal on/off switch on the other.  I just need the bit in the middle.  I can use a regular on off switch, but I don't want to have keep constantly flicking it off and on. All of my google searches end up pointing to either strobe lights, car electronics, or Christmas lights.  None of which will really work. Any ideas of what this would be or where to get a couple cheap? Thanks!

It should hold the bike off the ground and tight so it does not move around while you work on it.  I was thinking of using half inch pipe stuck in a five gal bucket filled with cement, but I could not come up with a good clamp idea.  BTW, the clamp should not mar the paint job.

 Colonial saw horse, you sit on it and clamp wood in it while using a draw knife

 Colonial saw horse you sit on and clamp wood while using a draw knife

Is there a clamp, bracket, etc that I can buy or make to facilitate the attachment of an electrical box to the lolly column in my basement?

We bent a cast iron pipe clamp trying to push the brake cylinder back in, it didn't budge.

And now my RROD is back, should I try replacing the other one, just re-applying more thermal paste or finally get a new box?

Are they bare? if you touch them you will die ! is that because it is NOT coated with rubber ?  I want to know if something is attached to the wire like a clamp can it feed electric power TO the power line ? If it is NOT grounded but surrounding the wire or clamped onto the wire and hanging from the wire can it feed power TO the Line?  If I  make a solar panel and hang it on the cable will it do ANYTHING ?  or will the power line have so much more power that the small amount from the solar panel wont enter the power line? will it back feed into the solar panel and wreck the solar panel ?   Can it be simple ?

Im thinking about making a longboard out of ply wood.Multiple layers on top of eachother that will be glued and clamped in place,what will be the best glue for holding multiple layers of ply woood together?

At Allied Electronics Corp, on Face Book, they run a contest where they ask for each participant to read their ad, and post something the tool does.  If you get picked, you win the tool offered as prize.  Here is my facebook notification: "The winner of our Grab Your Gadgets contest.... Mike Keller! He's won a Remote-Display Clamp Meter from Fluke." I am flabbergasted ! :-) Here is the original tag line in FB:   Grab Your Gadgets ends at midnight!  Enter to win a Fluke Clamp Meter!

Looking for tips for efficient design of wooden hexagonal boxes, bottoms, and lids.  Jewelry boxes, canisters, etc.  How to clamp for glue or air brads - I'm thinking a hexagonal jig, but that's potentially a lot of jigs for different-size boxes.

I salvaged a mallet with a split handle. The split followed the wood grain but extended down the length of the handle. I've glued it and clamped it. My highschool shop teacher told me once that glue is stronger than wood.

I want to get these 12v solar battery chargers they come with alligator clamps to hook to the battery. i want to get enough for 200 volts so how would i hook the solar panels in series, and do i need a controller for each battery? and how would i rig that up and how can I get it going into all the 12 volt batteries without any damage to the batteries etc. And can this be done for less than $400 if the solar panels are $30 each and the batteries are $14 each. THANK YOU!!!!  THANK YOU!!!!  THANK YOU!!!!  THANK YOU!!!!  THANK YOU!!!! oh and could you give me links for all the stuff I'm gonna be buying. THANKS!!!!

(This is the first topic of the "failed experiments" group.)I was wondering if the black smoke of the candles could be electrically conductive (carbon) when deposited as a layer over a piece of glass.After a quick and basic experimentation, it seems it is not.Here is how I proceeded :- I've put a piece of glass over the flame of a candle so a black smoke deposit appear on its surface.- I did so that it becomes opaque (if you want to try, be careful that the piece of glass may break because of the heat)- then, I used two crocodile clamps to make the contact (I've put a certain depth of aluminum foil between the claws of the clamp and the piece of glass)- then, I tried to measure the resistance with a multimeter, but the multimeter displayed no value at all.

I was cutting down a 4 by 8 sheet of birch faced plywood and both the jigsaw and circular saw cut crooked.  I clamped a 2 by 4 guide and it still cut the other way.  If i was to use another guide on the other side and make a path, would that work?  Why are my brand new blades cutting WAY off???

Hi all,Is there anyone who can tell me what this antique tool is used for. It is spring loaded and adjustable and maybe a clamp to hold a mitre join when fixing the two pieces together. Well at least that's what i think it may have been used for.No brand for me to Google.

I recently purchased a roller wringer, but having trouble finding a place to secure it to which will remain stable while i crank. The oval washtub i have id small around 30quarts, it fits , i use a piece of wood so the clamps aren't  on the washtub.. however the tub id too light weight and falls over if there is no water or clothe in the tub.i will truy and edit this later with a picture and measurements, but off hand i think between the screw clamps it is 14 inches,  i would really like ti mount in on my bathtub, outer rim which is 6inches.,since i would  have no stability and movements.he vendor i bought ot from said it was normality monuted on a upside down T shaped wood setup, i am not sure what that means. i also  don't want to get a bigger wash basin, since i l live in an apartment and space is really limited/ these are the specs from amazon " Clamps open to 1 3/4". The wringer's metal frame size is 15.5" wide. With the crank handle attached it extends the length to 29". The frame height is 8.5" but extends to 10.25" counting the tension screw knob on top. The metal frame is 2" deep with a 6" drip tray the slides into the frame under the rollers. The usable inside width is 11.25" from one side of the roller to the other. Weighs about 15 lbs assembled."

I have built a little power board which consists of a double plug adapter which plugs into a mains supply in the house, I then want to be able to plug in an appliance, say a fridge and see how many amps it draws - I want to be able to make this all fit into a briefcase so that it is portable - I can do all of that but just need to know how to put an AMP meter in between the power supply and the double plug where I will plug the appliance in. I realize I could do this with a clamp meter (which I have) but I have a specific reason to do this without a clamp meter

I got a microphone arm that clamps down to my desk ( can be seen in the picture) but the problem is that it's right in front of my mouse. I have to have it folded it up because it does not have to be extended since it's right there. It has gotten annoying after a while and I change it to hang from essentially where my window is ( also shown). my desk is has drawers and doesn't have any edges to clamp it down to so I was thinking if I can make a short extension for it. I don't need a whole new section I just need a secure extension that can be used to sustain the weight of the arm and mic. I tried drawing it and I hope it helps showing you guys what I envision. Thanks!