Search for Code Management in Topics

Hi all. First of all, I am running a Pentium 4 530 at 3.0Ghz. The temperature at FULL load is about 60-70 degreese CELCIUS. The cooler us a .. Rocketfish Universal CPU Cooler.. (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketfish%26%23153%3B+-+Universal+CPU+Cooler/9462609.p?id=1218108988702&skuId;=9462609) I dont know the code so i gave you a loink to it. I plan to upgrade to a Corsaire H50 to overclock. But first, I want to get my temps with this heatsink under control. I think it's the thermal compound... It's not applied very well.. I had to keep taking the cooler off and putting it back on to get it to clip into the board... :D Anyway, please let me know what you think I should do. THANKS!

I want to create a vb.net application whose function is to download a very large file from the internet. The application must be coded in such a way that the download can be paused and the rest of the file can be downloaded at a later date. There will be only one URL of the file which is to be downloaded so there will be no need of placing a text box control on the application's form. i want the code or the source files of this type of application. Can any one provide it to me ? I will be really thankful to him/her who provides it to me. Contact email : soumyakantisar@outlook.com

UPDATE: JSLoad is now hosted on Google Code. You can find the most recent source, revision history, documentation, and can report bugs, there. What is JSLoad? JSLoad is a Javascript file loader that we wrote for Instructables. You give it a set of dependencies and groupings, and it loads the files you need, when your executing code needs them. We're releasing it under the LGPL because we're cool like that, and because we'd like to use any enhancements that other folks come up with. You can download the code at the bottom of this blog post, or check out the test file to see it in action. Why use JSLoad? Generally, we use dependency managers to avoid having to think about all the couplings that exist within our code. A widget we've made may need a whole mess of stuff -- all spread out between different files -- to run. Dependency managers allow us to say, "Give me everything I need for this widget to run," instead of having to figure it out for ourselves, each time, for each widget. Other, well-written javascript package managers exist (e.g. jspkg, YUI Loader, etc.) So why did we write a new one, and what reasons might you have for using it? In a nutshell, JSLoad is small, flexible, and is designed to work on its own, without the need for any heavyweight framework. How does JSLoad work? JSLoad does the basics: you tell it that file 1 depends on file 2, so it loads file 1 first, then file 2. Throw any number of other dependencies into the mix, and JSload figures out the dependency chain and loads the files in the right order. The real usefulness of JSLoad comes with its ability to group dependencies using tags. Tags are arbitrary labels that you can apply to (i.e. make dependent on) any group of files or other tags. Tags can be applied to single files or multiple files. Multiple tags can be applied to a single file. You can even think of your tags as depending upon a portion of a file (say, class within a file containing several classes.) As a result, you can mimic most other dependency structures: Chains, trees, or more complicated graphs. You can tag things that often appear together, that share a certain aspect; whatever your usage calls for. At Instructables, for example, we generally have a base set of widgets and features whose dependencies are primarily tree-like. Those little bits are then collected into larger groupings like "editable" or "commentable"; abstract labels that approximate the kinds of interfaces that are common on our site. Tags are also very useful while refactoring code. Often, because of the flexibility of Javascript, you won't be sure of the best way to split your code across files. Which portions will be used together most often, and should thus be grouped together to reduce HTTP requests? With JSLoad, you can tag the variant groupings, then organize your code as you wish. Your web pages will just call JSLoad the tags as they need them. Over time, you may find that one tag is used much more often than the others. Using JSLoad, you can refactor your code into a more efficient file structure, without changing any of the script calls in the pages that use the code. How is JSLoad used? Here is an example of how to instantiate a new instance of JSLoad: var jsLoader = new JSLoad(tags); JSLoad instances are intended to be singletons. JSLoad was designed to track state (which files have already been loaded, for example) in one central location. The "tags" variable passed to the JSLoad instance is a list of tag dependencies. Here is an example: var tags = [ { name : "baselib" }, { name : "widget", requires : ["baselib"] } ]; As you can see, "tags" is an array of objects, each defining a tag and its dependencies. In the above example, the "widget" tag depends on "baselib." An implicit part of the tags definition is that, by default (and for conciseness), tags refer to files. So, in the above example, the "baselib" refers to "baselib.js" and "widget" refers to "widget.js". If a tag doesn't actually refer to a file, but is an arbitrary grouping of your own design, you can set the "tagOnly" property of the tag to "true": var tags = [ { name : "baselib" }, { name : "widget", requires : ["baselib"] }, { name : "gadget", requires : ["baselib"] }, { name : "dostuff", requires : ["widget", "gadget"], tagOnly: true } ]; In this case, I've created a tagOnly tag called "dostuff." There isn't any actual file named "dostuff.js." Rather, the tag just indicates that it needs both "widget" and "gadget" (and, by implication, "baselib") to be loaded. All three will thus be loaded in the correct order if I ask for "dostuff." How do I ask for "dostuff"? Well, somewhere on my page, I might want to do stuff, and thus inline the following Javascript code: jsLoader.load(["dostuff"], function () { var widgie = new Widget(); var gadgie = new Gadget(); }); This tells my JSLoad singleton to run the anonymous function that is the second argument, and to do so as soon as the "dostuff" tag has all of its dependencies taken care of. I can make my load() calls at any point on the page, requiring any combination of tags, and I can repeat them; JSLoad will take care of creating HTTP requests to get the necessary files only once, only when necessary, and in the right order. You can download the code at the bottom of this blog post, or check out the test file to see it in action. The archive at the bottom of this blog post includes the test file, too. Limitations JSLoad has some limitations, due to its implementation. First of all, JSLoad runs asynchronously, to speed up load time on a page and to allow for nested iframes to load script into the top level context. As a result, if you inline dependent script in your page, JSLoad will need to wrap that script to ensure that it isn't executed before the necessary files are loaded. See "How JSLoad is used" above for details. Second, the list of dependencies you provide to JSLoad needs to be ordered. That means that no file or tag may depend on a file or tag that appears after it. This allows JSLoad to run faster, as it can calculate the dependency tree in one pass, and protects it (and you) from circular dependencies. We may remove these limitations in future versions, or at least parameterize them so you can decide which side of a trade-off you'd like to take advantage of. In the meantime, enjoy! And, if you have any comments or questions, please use the comment section below.

Currently I am coding a project which uses an attiny2123 and a computer side client. Currently the firmware and client projects reside in their own (one for each) SVN repositories. When I release it (it will be open source) what is the best way of linking/managing the two linked projects? Should they both be dropped into the same SVN repo with different source trees? or kept seperate? or something else? Thanks in advance, Drew

I have a dkduino and a usb to serial converter, both running on a profilic usb to serial chip, when i look at them in device manager, th has a code 10, ive tried updating the drivers and whatnot, what should i do?

Greetings, I am relatively new to this forum. Please pardon me for any mistakes I make while posting new topic in this forum. With this being said, I have been trying to write a 'standard' 4x4 keypad scanning code. However, the code did not work correctly, I have tried to debug my code using the Serial Monitor with no luck. According to the Serial Monitor, only few keys would actually be correctly registered (usually 5, 8, 4, and 1), and the rest give me no output at all. However, when I insert a delay of 1 second within the loop itself, all the keys are correctly registered, but it give me a 'cyclic' pattern (ie. pressing 7, will give me 1, 4, and then 7). I have spent a lot of time on this, and a Google search of 4x4 keypad always refer me to the Arduino library. Overview of the code:set column pins to pull_up resistor, and set the row pins as output. Begin to scan the column pins with a given row pin output, and return the index.*Note: I know there is an Arduino library for this, but I want to practice in coding/programming the 4x4 keypad, and I don't know where did I went wrong.const byte ROWS = 4;const byte COLS = 4; int rowval; int colval; char hexaKeys[ROWS][COLS] = {{'1', '2', '3', 'A'}, {'4', '5', '6', 'B'}, {'7', '8', '9', 'C'}, {'*', '0', '#', 'D'}}; int rowPins[ROWS] = {7, 6, 5, 4}; int colPins[COLS] = {3, 2, 1, 0}; boolean col_state; boolean prev_state; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) { pinMode(colPins[i], INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(rowPins[i],OUTPUT); digitalWrite(rowPins[i],HIGH); } }void loop() { for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) { rowval=0; colval=0; pinMode(rowPins[i], OUTPUT); digitalWrite(rowPins[i], LOW); for (int j = 0; j < 4; j++) { col_state = digitalRead(colPins[j]); if (col_state == 0) { prev_state=col_state; delay(50); if(digitalRead(colPins[j])==prev_state){ rowval = i; colval = j; Serial.println(hexaKeys[rowval][colval]); delay(1000); ///add a 1 second delay here to make the output of Serial monitor more manageable digitalWrite(rowPins[i],HIGH); pinMode(rowPins[0], INPUT); break; } } } if(rowval!=0 && colval!=0) break; } }

The goal of my project is to input the code for a combination lock onto a keypad, and have the stepper motor move accordingly.   I currently have two codes. One code just handles the motor, which works fine. The second code handles all three devices. The Keypad and LCD work as expected in the second code, but when we get to the motor it gets stuck. I have tried all the troubleshooting I know how to do, and have come up with no viable results as to where the problem lies. You can access the Google Drive folder with both of these codes here. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxJonbzDyfCKbW0wanktcGdOVGc&usp;=sharing If you need anymore information please feel free to ask! The code needs to be done as soon as I can manage,  so all help is appreciated smiley

I am new to Arduino and am trying to make an Arduino based Photo Booth which will have a button that is pressed and triggers a countdown on an 8x8 SPI matrix and at the end of the countdown it triggers a SLR Camera (Nikon D5500) (i still need to work out how to trigger the camera and write the camera trigger code). at the moment i have managed to create code that starts the countdown when a button is pressed however it seems to only want to listen to the button randomly and triggers whenever it seems to feel like it. Here is the code i have so far...Have i written it correctly? #include "LedControl.h" const int buttonPin = 2;     // the number of the pushbutton pin int buttonState = 0;         // variable for reading the pushbutton status LedControl lc=LedControl(12,11,10,1);  // Pins: DIN,CLK,CS, # of Display connected unsigned long delayTime=1000;  // Delay between Frames // Put values in arrays byte invader1a[] = {   B01111110, // #9   B11111111,   B11100111,   B11111111,   B01111111,   B00000111,   B11111111,   B01111110 }; byte invader1b[] = {   B01111110, // #8   B11111111,   B11100111,   B01111110,   B01111110,   B11100111,   B11111111,   B01111110 }; byte invader1c[] = {   B11111111, // #7   B11111111,   B00000111,   B00001110,   B00011100,   B00111000,   B00111000,   B00111000 }; byte invader1d[] = {   B01111110, // #6   B11111111,   B11100000,   B11111110,   B11111111,   B11100111,   B11111111,   B01111110 }; byte invader1e[] = {   B11111111, // #5   B11111111,   B11100000,   B11111110,   B11111111,   B00000111,   B11111111,   B01111110 }; byte invader1f[] = {   B11101110, // #4   B11101110,   B11101110,   B11111111,   B11111111,   B00001110,   B00001110,   B00001110 }; byte invader1g[] = {   B11111110, // #3   B11111111,   B00000111,   B11111110,   B11111110,   B00000111,   B11111111,   B11111110 }; byte invader1h[] = {   B01111110, // #2   B11111111,   B11100111,   B00001110,   B00111000,   B11100000,   B11111111,   B11111111 }; byte invader1i[] = {   B00011100, // #1   B00111100,   B01111100,   B00011100,   B00011100,   B00011100,   B00011100,   B00011100 }; byte invader1j[] = {   B00000000, // #smile   B00000000,   B00100100,   B00000000,   B10000001,   B01000010,   B00111100,   B00000000 }; byte invader1k[] = {   B00000000, // #blank   B00000000,   B00000000,   B00000000,   B00000000,   B00000000,   B00000000,   B00000000 }; void setup() {   lc.shutdown(0,false);  // Wake up displays   lc.shutdown(1,false);   lc.setIntensity(0,5);  // Set intensity levels   lc.setIntensity(1,5);   lc.clearDisplay(0);  // Clear Displays   lc.clearDisplay(1);   pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); } //  Take values in Arrays and Display them void sinvader1a() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)    {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1a[i]);   } } void sinvader1b() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1b[i]);   } } void sinvader1c() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1c[i]);   } } void sinvader1d() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1d[i]);   } } void sinvader1e() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1e[i]);   } } void sinvader1f() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1f[i]);   } } void sinvader1g() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1g[i]);   } } void sinvader1h() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1h[i]);   } } void sinvader1i() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1i[i]);   } } void sinvader1j() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1j[i]);   } } void sinvader1k() {   for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++)   {     lc.setRow(0,i,invader1k[i]);   } } void loop() {// read the state of the pushbutton value:   buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);   // check if the pushbutton is pressed.   // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:   if (buttonState == HIGH) {     sinvader1a();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1b();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1c();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1d();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1e();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1f();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1g();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1h();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1i();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1j();     delay(delayTime);     sinvader1k();   } if (buttonState == LOW) {    buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);   }   }

Using the MCP2210 USB to SPI Converter (Similar to MOD-1013), utility for IC runs with factory default settings for the IC but can't connect to MCP2210 I have plugged into the USB port. Computer sees it, shows it in Device Manager but lists error for it and Code 43.  How do I get the MCP2210 utility from Microchip to recognize the chip plugged into the computer?

Ok ! I bought an iphone with a broken charger connector , cut to three months later ( today) I have changed the connector and got the phone working. Didnt even think about there being a code on it. So like the complete nob that I am , I attempted the code three times , only to be locked out. now strangely enough I did reconnect to my computer at one point and it gave me the code screen again , not sure if thats cause i still had the phone in parts , and accidently disconnected a ribbon , or if thats what has caused the code screen to totally disaper. Well anyways , all the main advice I can find on google and on youtube about connecting to itunes , and putting it into the restore mode do not work , ie turn off phone , turn back on , but keep the home button down , I have tried numerous variations, numerous times and I cant seem to make it happen ???????? I managed to conntact the guy I got the phone from, and have 2 possible codes , but that dosent look like its going to help now ??? Any advice please, 

UPDATEI manage it to work, now i have a short, cross and continuity tester for cables.PM if u need the code.Best regards,Paul L.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hello everyone,Can some help me to change the code in order to use a push button to start the test and all the result to be moved from serial monitor to an LCD with I2C, the address of the LCD is (0x27) and it`s useing pin21_SCL, pin20_SDA 5V and GND. If its anyone with more experience then me and could do that, the help is welcome :)Download the Code <- here you will find the code named test28.ino and the LCD code that I used to test the LCD, and a text file with the pins used by the LCD.Thank you,Paul Lungoci

 I'm a beginner on arduino software, but manage to make mi plane fly with help of open sources; however a challenge like X and Y flight, and control a mounted camera is a big deal so,   i need help to develop a new code that can still let me control the vertical and  horizontal (X and Y) flight plane and a mount camera.  The code has to feedback the image is recording. ( yeah this the part i need most help) did someone deverloped such a code.( yeah i know they have; but does one know it)

Does anyone know how to edit an Arduino LCD menu sketch to work with an IR remote control instead of using 4 physical buttons? I'm using this menu http://www.coagula.org/content/pages/tutorial-manage-menu-and-lcd-display-arduino but I have troubles in editing the code to use the IR remote control...I'm pretty n00b at programming so I need your help guys... Cheers!

I just bought a couple of surprise boxes from www.goldmine-elec-products.com, and they had a lot of these components.. Everything else in the box, I managed to identify and categorize, except these things.. What are they? And what value do they have? they have a color code.. The coloring is: Black, purple, red, gold (or gold, red, purple, black) Thanks - Chr

Ive managed to set up my eldest sons x box to x box live with no problems at all but cannot get my youngest sons x box to connect. Ive put in the code for the router. Ive got a netgear router which is password protected. Has anyone got any ideas what I should do?

I follow this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoG_-9lAnSI but with the same steps it doesen't work In windows 10 it doesen't works...device manager give me this error: Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) A request for the USB device descriptor failed. i create the circuit identically to yours...i'm using the ide in 1.0.5r2 and using the same library...what should I do?

Recently I've been wondering if I could actually build a cpu, I knew about the attiny and thought that I might try to build it without any chips. (Ambitious I know) I'm pretty experienced at soldering and coding and have been doing both for 17 years so I reckon I can manage it. Does anyone happen to know the whereabouts of any schematics for the attiny 25/45/85? If you do please tell me, it would be a great help.

Guys!            Can some one tell me how to RESET the Arduino UNO using a software code. The reason for this question would be that I am planning to place the Arduino inside a small box once my project is completed and working. However, I will need to RESET the board quite often. I am aware that there is a RESET button, but it will not be accessible. I want to put another push button outside and somehow manage to connect it to the Reset line on the board. Any help on this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi, gmjhowe here, As many of you may know, i am currently a Moderator inside the meebo chatroom we have on this site. Me along with two others maintain order in the chatroom.The current Mods, are Bumpus, and Adrian Monk I chose these two as they are both chatroom regulars, they have meebo accounts, and are in different time zones to me.Now, we have a few problems, but they are easily fixed with these few simple rules.- People using the chatroom should always use their instructables username- The chatroom is still part of instructables, and we go by the same rules, and be nice policy- People will be given two formal warnings before they are banned, we will not just ban people with no warning.In order to prevent 'imposters' were going to use a simple code system.Basically, all the regulars and visitors to the chatroom will get issued a simple 4-digit code (which will be PMed to their account on ibles). The idea being, that when in the chatroom they can IM me the code, to prove they are who they say they are.Think of it like Captcha.I know this isn't ideal, but it will manage fine for now.Thanks for reading, any questions, just ask.- gmjhoweTo get your 4-digit code, contact me via PM or leave a comment below.

Am already a year working as an amateur electronics. Sorry for my English, am 74 years and never learned the language. Now I'm managed to 17HS2408S, a DRV8825 with a servo and Arduino to this linear to run back and forth just over 35 cm (6400 full steps). This runs as desired in terms of distance. Now I would like to have with use of a Sensor that if he is activated the stepper make one run forward en back. To this end, the program should stop after one full run on contact from the sensor (Pir, LDR or photocell). Who can help me to customize the code that it stops after one time through the code, and how and where to connect a sensor to start the program.Foto connections and Servo_Test_3.ino

After several months of tinkering I managed to complete my 2nd robot based off an instructables project listed below. I tweaked the code a bit and also added a ATTINY85 for the blinking LED on the top of its head. So far its working flawlessly. The biggest problem i had was cutting the old rubbermaid plastic as I don't have a proper dremel. I might add a bluetooth module in the future so I can control it with my phone...https://youtu.be/E0ONc3FG91M Instructables project Alice is based off of: https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/maep-20

1.  Debian - one of the older base distributions and currently one of the most popular.  Uses the "apt" package manager for software installation.  Excellent server distribution. 2.  Fedora - the free community edition of Red Hat Linux.  Sponsored by Red Hat Linux.  Uses the "rpm" package manager for software installation. 3.  openSuse - sponsored by Novell, originally developed largely in Europe. 4.  Mageia - fork of an older distribution called Mandriva Linux. 5.  PCLinuxOS - also a fork of Mandriva.  Looks to provide out-of-the-box support for graphics and sound cards. 6.  Red Hat Enterprise Linux (RHEL) - based on Fedora, RHEL includes many enterprise-level enhancements and is supported Red Hat corporation. 7.  CentOS Linux - free enterprise-grade operating system that is built from the same source code as RHEL without the proprietary enhancements or support from Red Hat.  8.  Puppy - very small Linux operating system that boots the OS and applications completely into RAM.  Can operate on older computer equipment.  Excellent for use in emergencies and to recover data from hard drives. 9.  FreeBSD - operating system that is based on BSD code. 10.  Ubuntu Linux - easy to use operating system that is based on Debian Linux.  Supported by the Canonical corporation.  Ubuntu means "humanity to others".  Excellent server distribution. 11.  Linux Mint - currently one of the most popular distributions, based on Ubuntu Linux.  Looks to provides complete experience by including browser plugins and media codecs (ie: Flash) upon installation.  Excellent desktop distribution.  Also comes in lightweight editions for older hardware 12.  NetBSD - based on BSD code.  Can be run on a wide range of hardware.  Currently there are 57 different hardware architectures that can run NetBSD. 13.  OpenBSD - based on BSD code.  Source code built from the ground up with security first and foremost as the goal.  Ships "secure by default", that is, all non-essential services are disabled.  OpenBSD has embedded cryptography throughout the operating system; it utilizes OpenSSH, Pseudo Number Random Generators, cryptographic hash functions, cryptographic transforms and crypto hardware support. 14.  ClearOS - server and network distro designed for small businesses.  Based on Red Hat Linux.  Web-based interface controls anti-virus, anti-spam, VPN, content filtering, bandwidth manager, file services, SMTP services, print services, SSL certification, and web services. 15.  Kali Linux - distro that specializes in penetration testing and security auditing.  Over 300 penetration testing tools.  Based on Debian Linux. 16.  Lubuntu - lightweight version of Ubuntu Linux for older computers and netbooks. 17.  Gentoo - highly customizable distro that uses a package system called portage written in Python.  Mascot is Larry the Cow.

I'm new to arduino. I managed to get one working for my phoenix headpiece, however I'm working on a new project and would love to make something with multiple patterns on about a meter of neopixel strip. I'm not that interested in learning how to write arduino code, and after struggling just to get one basic pattern working last time I am wondering if there are either out of the box controllers out there with pre-programmed patterns (does this exist?), or good apps for generating code that offer something other than frenetic chase/blink type patterns. I really like more organic and/or slow fading patterns. I've found a few things searching online, but given my newness I'm having a hard time narrowing in on what would be best for a total noob :) One alternative to arduino that came up was Pixelblaze, in case anyone has ever used one of those controllers.Any advice welcome!

Hello. I have a simple task to achieve, I guess, but I'm stuck. I'm using the setup from the attached image. All I need to do is to read the Speed of the vehicle using data from the obd2 k-line pin, and then to send a command to blink the brake lights when a certain decrease in speed is detected (e.g. more than 2km/h/s). I can not initialize the k-line and I am not able to red anything on the serial monitor on arduino :(. After I manage to read the raw data I am planing to figure out what's the code for turning on the brake lights by just simply pressing the brake pedal. The vehicle is an 2004 BMW E60, but I guess this is not an issue. Question... Are the TX/RX pins connected as it shod on the arduino board? Thank you. Ant help would be appreciated. I need this for a school project and a have a deadline :(((

Is the new layout for forum messages annoying you because the sidebar switched spots, and now you instinctively look to your left, only to find nothing but ads?Well, as I do, I wrote a Greasemonkey script. Click to installConfused? Look here for more step-by-step infoSince its so short, here's the magical code:// ==UserScript==// @name Instructables Forum Left-align// @description Manage your Extensions, Themes, Languages, and Updates// @include https://www.instructables.com/community*// ==/UserScript==document.getElementById("main_content").style.cssFloat = "left"Have fun ;-)

Okay, I have an HP Pavilion a6110n desktop computer, running Windows Vista ,Service Pack 2. A few days ago, I had the power supply fail, and had to replace it. After that, I noticed that my computer would not play any audio through any of the 3.5mm analog outputs. When I go into sound manager, the computer tells me that the speakers/audio outputs are not plugged in, even though I opened the case and confirmed that they are plugged into the motherboard. In addition, the onboard Realtek HD Audio Manager will not recognize any output other than the digital output, even though most of the analog outputs are integrated into the motherboard itself, and not a separate audio card. I have tried Googling to no avail, as none of the solutions I have tried have worked.  I have tried updating drivers, adding and removing hardware, uninstalling and reinstalling Realtek, even updating the BIOS, all to no avail. I have tried calling both Microsoft, and HP, and they are both unable to help me without me having to pay them. Since my computer is so old anyway, that would not be worth it. Basically, is there an easy solution that will not require me rebuilding my computer? If there is not, I won't even bother. Also, I've tried disabling, then enabling the speakers, from the sound manager, but that does not work either. If there is any possible way to help me with this, i would appreciate it. Thanks in advance. PS I've also included the two audio manager screens I get, hopefully showing the problem better. Edit: I've tried looking at this in Safe Mode, and it gives me a Code 45, basically telling me that the software is physically not plugged in. I'm seriously wondering why my computer can say that, even though the hardware in question is part of the motherboard. Also, if this were a problem, where would I look for blown capacitors?

I have tried to connect with several different wires and I have tested those wires and the ports in my router with another computer and they all work. I went to the device manager and saw an error for my ethernet port. The driver is a Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller and the error is:             "Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware. The driver may be corrupted or missing. (Code 39)" My guess would be that I disabled one or more services required for this driver but that is only a guess. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it.

Hello there;  I am working my final year project on library management system which needs to include a barcode reader hardware. As i am told by my advisor i can't use a barcode reader whose out put is the final ASCII value rather i have to get a binary (0 & 1s)output from my hardware, then convert that value using arduino or my C# asp.net code to generate the final result of the barcode for the book.   So, what is a looking for is, a ccd camera based barcode reader module whose output is ttl (or binary) i.e before it is decoded.  Any idea where i can find such a device, please   Any comment is welcome.  10x for your time.

               Hi. I am looking for some people to help make Video Games. I have lots of ideas, but absolutely NO coding, design, or music composing skills. I am looking for people who have those skills, and want to help. I don't really have the money, but I was going to put those games on Kickstarter, so that could pay, if you really wanted to. If you don't want to be paid, that would be great too.               Some ideas I have are: A game called "Video Game Tycoon" (Because people like tycoon games right now) where you could be either a Youtuber, Game Designer, Game Company, or Store Manager. You probably know what happens next because all tycoon games have the same goal, so i won't say much else. Another would be Tiny Wars. where you would command a small army of troops, tanks, planes, and other war things. As you level up, you could get more advanced troops, maybe even Spaceships. That's just SOME of my ideas. But again, I don't have the skills.                   SO PLEASE HELP A GUY OUT!

I am working on Fleet management and this with my project There are three possible states for the device which we need to implement (Off, Running, Configuration, Factory Settings) There should be a button to change the device status (only one button please). If the device is already off, pressing this button should bring the device in running mode. If the device is on, pressing this button for 5 seconds should bring the device in configuration mode If the device is in configuration mode, pressing the button for 5 seconds should restart the device, and pressing the button 3 times should set the variables to default values. If the device is on, pressing the button for 10 seconds turn of the device When the device is in configuration mode, we should be able to plug the device with a computer using USB. The device should start sending it's internal APN code with a specific sequence e.g. TRRT as soon as it sends this code to the computer, it should wait for response from the computer. The computer can sends back the code TRRT or no response. When the device receives TRRT, it should match the IMMI it sent and the IMMI it received. If both matched, then it should wait for settings: The computer will send data as TRRT where varname is e.g. APN, USERNAME, PASSWORD, URL, POLL_INTERVAL etc. the value after first : is the the value of the variable. The device should save these values to SD or it's internal memory immediately. Now press the button for 5 seconds, the device should restart and straight away enter into running mode. Now the device should connect to server using and sends GPS location and speed every interval set by the POLL_INTERVAL variable. Let's achieve this first, I'll add more functionality once we're done with this. Thanks,

I have an idea to make conference room scheduling easier. I know similar hardware based ideas exist (such as this), but I don't think anything quite like my idea available. It goes like this. The outside of each conference room would have a posted QR barcode. The QR code would contain static information about the room such as the room name/id, location, etc. Using a smartphone or tablet with QR barcode scanning capability (iPhone, iPad 2, Android, etc.), an individual could walk up to the room and scan the code. The code would prompt the device to forward the necessary room information to an internally hosted site. The site would be designed to accommodate mobile use and appear as a native application for the given device. It would be fully integrated with the back-end scheduling system (Google Calendar, Exchange, etc.). The user would be presented with the following options: - View topic of active meeting (if not marked as private) - View active meeting attendees (if not marked as private) - View room schedule for day, with open spots available with button to reserve. - Book a room on-the-spot simply by clicking a spot that is available - Invite others to join your meeting (using contacts on device or LDAP to look up in company directory) - Provide link to the closest room that is currently available and offer to reserve if acceptable. - Show floor map of meeting rooms with current location highlighted, and some indication of the rooms that are currently available (or available soon) within a 100ft radius. - If the person scanning the code is also the meeting organizer, they will be presented with options to update, cancel, or send out reminders to others attending. - etc...Features could go on and on Benefits of this idea: - Users don't need to go through the tedious process of pulling up a scheduling program, searching for a room, booking it, finding another room available, etc. - Users can still schedule rooms from their PCs as usual, but now have the added benefit of scheduling a near-by room on the fly - Nearly everyone in a technology workplace has a smartphone these days with QR code scanning capability - No hardware to hang outside meeting doors such as done with other similar systems - Most if not all functionality would be managed by the back-end system, allowing maximum flexibility in providing updates and maintenance of the system Thoughts? Worth developing? - John (http://manganlabs.com)

I am a manufacturer and exporter of stainless steel pipe.Our main products include Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings, Stainless Steel Liquid Transport Pipe,Stainless Steel Structure Pipe , Stainless Steel Sanitary Pipe(Involve The Aquatic Products Pipe), Stainless Steel Boiler And Hot Permutater Pipe,Stainless Steel Flange And Stainless Steel Valve etc. Our products have acquired the license regarding the anitation and safety of drinking water by the Department of Health of Zhejiang Province and passed the accreditation of ISO9001:2000 International Quality Management System by CCS.Company Name: ZHEJIANG NANBO STEEL INDUSTRYCO.,LTD. Add:lndustrial Zone,Qiyi Village,Lanjin Bridge,Shacheng Town,Longwan District,Wenzhou CityTel:+86-0577-86997866 86051988 86058799 Fax:+86-0577-86050988Contact:RichardZip code:325025Web Site: http://www.stainlesssteelpipe.net E-mail: trade@stainlesssteelpipe.net

Hi guys! this is my first post here at Instructables :D I really hope someone will be able to help me! Basically the problem is described in the attached image. To be short, we have: - 1x smartphone (Android) - 1x bluetooth module (HC05 with breakout board GW-040 4 pin SPI) - some buttons and arrows... I've already managed to get the HC05 recognized by Windows as a gamepad (modifying the tag using AT commands). The real problem is that i'm stuck with that. I would like to understand how i can connect some buttons (let's say four) that will actually behave like arrows while playing. As far as i understood i need to use the PIO pins but unfortunately my knowledge stops here. Theoretically the code behind this is simple: when the button is pressed the circuit is close and a signal is received by the HC05 who sends the corresponding command via bluetooth. So if the up arrow is pressed, that pin will receive 1 (closed circuit) and the HC05 will send "UP_Arrow" as an instruction to the smartphone. The problem is how do i write down this code and put it into the HC05? since the gamepad tag is "universal" i guess there is some default code for things like this. I think it's the same thing they did with the MOGA... I also read that i could need a SPI-USB Download (something like this ) to use the BlueSuite, that seems like the software needed for this operation. Thanks for any advice!! P.S.: Some useful links i found while searching.. http://dextersstory.tistory.com/3 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/10 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/11 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/16 http://www.martyncurrey.com/arduino-with-hc-05-bluetooth-module-at-mode/ https://developer.mbed.org/users/edodm85/notebook/HC-05-bluetooth/ https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/rn-42-ds.pdf http://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/RN-HID-User-Guide-v1.0r.pdf http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/bluetooth_cr_UG-v1.0r.pdf

I am interested in building an electronic system to control the orientation of an astronomy dome based on the orientation of the telescope. I need suggestions on the various components I might use. Motivation: This is a Meade 16" LX200 telescope in an Ash Dome. Owned by a friend who doesn't use it much. I get to use it, maintain it, enhance it for about 1 week a year. I can control the scope with my laptop using a program like "The Sky". However, after the telescope is pointed, I have to manually manage the dome and rotate it with a bi-directional switch. Very tedious. The motor is 1/4 HP, 1725RPM, drawing 5.6 Amps at 120VAC. There are programs that can be used with the telescope control to manage the rotation of the dome, but I am thinking of a lower-tech solution. I would like to put some reflecting tape (perhaps mirrors) on the sides of the dome slot and point some lights (perhaps LED lasers) with a pickup device (hence the idea of the garage door styled "electronic eye"). The general idea would be to set up some simple device that would detect the change in location of the direction that the telescope is pointing, and activate the dome to track with the telescope. If the telescope turns, the light would no longer be reflected and the dome would try to "find" itself or re-orient to a point where the light is once again detected by the reflection from the mirrors on the dome. I was thinking about: Garage door electronic eye activators 120V 6A relay switches 2 enhancements: detect direction of the telescope; bar codes in the reflective tape wireless signals to send activation to relay switches (telescopes go in circles and eliminating wires is always good.) Anyone have any ideas about pre-built components, sources of good relays, electronic eyes, etc? TIA, Chris.

Call Features1. 3-way Conference2. Auto Answer3. Call History- Most Recently Missed Calls- Most Recently Received Calls- Most Recently Dialed Numbers4. Call Hold5. Call Forwarding6. Call Mute7. Call Rejection8. Call Transfer9. Flexible dial map10. Call Waiting11. Caller ID12. Do Not Disturb (DND)13. DTMF Relay- In-band, Out-band and SIP Info 14. Hotline15. support SIP domain, DNS name i. of server16. Multiple Proxy, Registrar, Redirect Servers17. Supports 2 service domains18. Volume AdjustmentManagement1. Firmware Upgradeable2. Upgrade firmware through boot monitor3. Config through Web, Telnet 4. Upgrade firmware and configuration file i. through HTTP, FTP, TFTP5. Support Syslog6. ND5 EncryptionProtocols1. SIP RFC3261 RFC3262 RFC3265i. Backward Compatible with RFC25432. SDP (RFC2327)3. RTP/RTCP (RFC1889 and RFC1890)4. NAPTR for SIP URI Lookup (RFC2915)5. STUN (RFC 3489)6. ARP/RARP (RFC 826/903)7. SNTP (RFC 2030)8. DHCP/PPPoE9. HTTP Server for Web Management10. TFTP/HTTP for firmware upgrade11. DHCP Option Codes for SIP (RFC3361)12. 802.1P TOSApplications1. Voice Mail Integration2. NAT Traversala) Static NAT Routeb) Traversal by STUN/UPNP3. Support Firewall4. Support Route/Bridge mode I/O Interfaces1. 2 RJ-452. Dual 10/100 Switched Ethernet Port3. 1 RJ11 for Phone(FXS) , 1 RJ11 for LifelineUSB-phone

I have only just received this Arduino UNO and am trying to teach myself the language. I thought it wouldn't be that bad as I am already familiar with python, however, I was getting loads of errors (most of which I have managed to solve from searching through forums) and have landed on this one. I get this error - "exit status 1 - expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token"This is my code...int ledPin = 0; //declares all different pins for different segments of displayint ledPin1 = 1; int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 3; int ledPin4 = 4; int ledPin5 = 5; int ledPin6 = 6; int ledPin7 = 7;int inPin = 5; //declares analogRead pinint alphaValue = analogRead(inPin); map(alphaValue, 1, 1023, 1, 4) //maps 1-1023 to 1-4void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //declares pin types pinMode(1, OUTPUT); pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, INPUT); #define low digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); //defines 'low' digitalWrite(ledPin1, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin3, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin4, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin5, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin6, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin7, LOW); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: if(alphaValue == 1){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); } if (alphaValue == 2){ low digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 3){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 4){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin3, HIGH); } }

Help zafira w reg keeps losing power almost feels like it's braking?i have a w reg 2000 zafira elegance 1.8 petrol and i have got a problem with it losing power big time at low speeds and quite serverly when cruise at 60-70 mph it almost feels like the brakes have been applied then all of a sudden it picks up and flies off. i've had the engine managment light come on so had it put on the computer at main dealer they found code p0100 and p0505 which they charged £250 to tell me and convert the air flow sensor (allegedly as i don't see any sign of work done) .then thay said i need a new throttle body and iac valve new mass airflow sensor and pipes new crankshaft sensor new camshaft sensor plus a new ecu but can't quarantee that will fix it so what do i do pay the £3500 for them to try that or plead for help on the internet for ideas on possible solutions so here i am please could someone help

I am trying to export a G-Code from Acura I noticed when I loaded the file, starts processing and at some point it stops. I can see the support material did not finish processing and the top portion is not complete.Then I make changes to the settings I increased the height of the layer and reduced the density.In other words is a lighter density overall. If i decrease this a lot, Then the software manages to finish the set up proces and the save button comback active to export Gcode.Seems like the large data of the higer density settings runs out of Disk space to create the cash.Does anyone know how can I fix this problem?I remember when I work in Adobe after effects editing videos, the software ask me to reserve a dedicated folder with an specific disk space just for cash, when this folder is full, the software ask you to empty the temporary cash files to make more disk space for more projects.Does anyone know how i fix the space disk or what ever i need to do to allow the software to finish procesing with higher density?Please helpYou can email me to gamelicruz@gmail.comThanks

Here is a super cute little project which I found unaccredited on 4chan (who'd have thought?)  Logic Goats!  Papercraft logic gates in the shape of goats, which nod their head when the appropriate inputs are given.  There are four (there may be others I haven't found): And-Goat Or-Goat Xor-Goat Not-Goat I haven't made any of them up but I plan to this weekend!  I'll post pix if I manage to do this :) Update: these are from a website called robives.com, which sells them; I've removed these copies as they're clearly pirated.  Thanks for pointing this out, meeze!  I couldn't find attribution on the PDFs themselves yesterday but on checking again today, one does have the url on it and they're all on the site for purchase (see links above). (Note about Internet safety.  There is an attack which is becoming more common, which can be embedded in PDFs using the Javascript capability in Adobe Reader.  I did a bit of research and I am confident that these Logic Goat PDFs don't contain any malicious code, but as with anything on the Internet, download at your own risk.  In general it is wise to disable Javascript in Adobe Reader, if you use that for PDF viewing.  There is an interesting discussion of one of these attacks here: http://isc.sans.org/diary.html?storyid=7867)

I already found a instructable that plays a portal song using an avr: https://www.instructables.com/id/Portal-Still-Alive-on-AVR-microcontrollers/ I wanna make something just like that, small, minimal, but i want to know how to do it propoerly, can someone point me the way? I wanted to do simples short sound samples, with a button, that's fairly simple, but i'm not familiar with the audio part. I know i have to convert wave sound samples to hex, but the whole process i still don't know right. I am familiar with eletronics and arduino, but this project has limited space. I can use pic's, perhaps AVR, but i got limited time, as this will be a gift. We gona do a potato Glados, with a real potato with copper and zync nails, using a booster/thiefbug as a potato only manage to give 1.2V . Theres is a similar produt on ThinkGeek, we could just buy it, but doing it is way more symbolic. Considering that we live in Brazil, the simples way possible is always prefered, importing stuff takes precious time. I'll probably stick with that avr and modify the code, but any help would be awesome.

Hi guys I hope this is ok to ask about as I have followed Instructables for ages but not used the forum part before. I have a bit of experience of arduino projects and doing basic sketches for them but nothing as ambitious as this so am seeking a bit of advice if possible. I'd like to be able to have a droid/robot's head that can rotate to focus on the direction of a sound, then if it sees a person once looking in the direction it heard the sound, to then roughly track them (move its head) with a camera. I'm fine with motorisation and that side of things, but I'm not sure if this sort of fairly elaborate setup would be possible with an arduino or would need something more powerful like a rasp pi? I'd imagine that I would need an array of several mics as inputs around the bot in a 'circle', and code that can estimate the direction by means of the signal strength from the mics when it hears a noise.  I think this might be something I can manage to do, but then it'd need a suitable camera and a means of tracking and I've no idea how the tracking side of things would work with that. I'd be grateful for any pointers to get me going thanks.  It's not something I could do without help but hopefully doing it bit by bit and with some advice I'd be able to do this, as I would really love to make it work! Many thanks! Jim

Dear ingenious makers,i forged the plan to make myself a wifi controlled lego car with camera support. the vision is to chase my cats and/or wife when i'm not at home.So far, I got the lego rc car assembled: https://shop.lego.com/de-CH/Ferngesteuerter-Tracke.... It comes with a battery back (6xAA) and two motors to power the two tank chains individually.Now I´d like to replace the rc with a wifi module and add a camera. I have found some great inspirations here:https://www.instructables.com/id/Wifi-controlled-c... --> powered by intel edisonhttps://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-WiFi-Controlled-RC-Car/ --> powered by NodeMCUI used to be a professional programmer, but i haven't touched source code in years. However, I think I'll manage with some guidance. With all the options, the tough part is how to even start...My questions:What platform (Arduino, Pi, Edison) would be the best? (I need to control two motors, stream a video and build a website i can use on a mobile device to view the stream and control the car)What components need to be purchased?Many thanks in advance,kamyrion

I am using a Arduino Uno with a SN754410 ic to control my 12v motor (exactly like diagram from http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Labs/DCMotorControl) Managed to use a SPDT switch to change direction (sheer miracle for me) I plan to put 1 snap-action switch in front of my bot and 1 at the back, so it will travel forward until it hits an obstacle, then reverse all the way until it hits another obstacle. Once the motor is activated, it will go maybe go for 5 minutes, then pause for 10mins, then on for 5 mins again, and so forth. First attempt with the arduino so any help with detailed instructions about how to go about wiring these two extra switches and the programming code would be greatly appreciated! Also, I need it to be mobile so I'm thinking of connecting a 12v2.2AH/20HR sealed rechargeable battery to the motor itself, and another 9v for the board cos I read it regulates it to 5v. Will this be ok? Will it be able to last my bot for a few hours? My current code: int switchPin = 2;    // switch input int motor1Pin = 3;    // H-bridge leg 1 (pin 2, 1A) int motor2Pin = 4;    // H-bridge leg 2 (pin 7, 2A) int enablePin = 9;    // H-bridge enable pin     void setup() {     // set the switch as an input:     pinMode(switchPin, INPUT);     // set all the other pins you're using as outputs:     pinMode(motor1Pin, OUTPUT);     pinMode(motor2Pin, OUTPUT);     pinMode(enablePin, OUTPUT);     // set enablePin high so that motor can turn on:     digitalWrite(enablePin, HIGH);   }     void loop() {     // if the switch is high, motor will turn on one direction:     if (digitalRead(switchPin) == HIGH) {       digitalWrite(motor1Pin, LOW);   // set leg 1 of the H-bridge low       digitalWrite(motor2Pin, HIGH);  // set leg 2 of the H-bridge high     }     // if the switch is low, motor will turn in the other direction:     else {       digitalWrite(motor1Pin, HIGH);  // set leg 1 of the H-bridge high       digitalWrite(motor2Pin, LOW);   // set leg 2 of the H-bridge low     }   }

So I have been messing around with the Arduino Capsense library with the immensely helpful guide; https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Use-Touch-Sensors-With-Arduino/  (many thanks to DangerousTim!)   using the code provided, i managed to get a relay to operate with a sensor.  It worked great and I was able to adjust the distance and sensitivity.  But when i tried adding another sensor and relay, it stopped working.  I've been trying to isolate the problem for a while now and have gotten nowhere.  I'm hoping someone can help me, here's the original code for the single sensor and relay; #include #include                                           //change '42' to any desired pin... long time = 0; int state = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);  // To add more sensors... //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_6 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 6, pin 6 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_8 = CapacitiveSensor(4,8);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 8, pin 8 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);   } void loop()                    {     long total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);            if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}            // to toggle the state of state         if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){              if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH; }     else state = LOW;     time = millis();     }                     digitalWrite(13, state);            previous = yes;                 delay(10); } and here's the code for the two sensors and relays #include int led = 13;     int led2 = 12;    long time = 0; int state = HIGH; long time2 = 0; int state2 = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; boolean yes2; boolean previous2 = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 2, pin 2 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil if desired CapacitiveSensor   cs_5_7 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    cs_5_7.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);  //Calibrate the sensor...    pinMode(led, OUTPUT);    pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); } void loop()                    {     int total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);     Serial.println(total1);     int total2 =  cs_5_7.capacitiveSensor(30);                     if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}    if (total2 > 60){yes2 = true;}     else {yes2 = false;}           // to toggle the state of state     if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){                    if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH;        }        else          state = LOW;          time = millis();      }                          if(yes2 == true && previous2  == false && millis() - time2>debounce){                   if(state2 == LOW){          state2 = HIGH;        }        else          state2 = LOW;            time2 = millis();            }                 digitalWrite(led, state);       previous = yes;       digitalWrite(led2, state2);       previous2 = yes2;                  delay(10); } Any suggestions are always helpful.

Hi people I am trying to build a temperature sensor using 3 LEDs. The aim is to have them come on at specific temperatures. This is for my motorcycle ride to work this coming winter. I want to know when the temp goes below 8c down to 5c from 5c down to 0c then below. I have managed to do this via a arduino board & a LM35 sensor and 3 LEDs. But I cant get this to work on the ATtiny85 chip. Below is the code I wrote for this on the arduino. Any help or different program would be of great. *my first attempt at a temp warning light need it to come on when temp lower than 5deg celsius */ int tempPin = A1; int led01 = 8; int led02 = 9; int led03 = 10; int tempMax = 28; int tempMid = 27; int tempMin = 5; int temp; void setup() {   Serial.begin(9600);     pinMode (led01, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led02, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led03, OUTPUT);   pinMode (tempPin, INPUT); }     void loop() {      temp = analogRead(tempPin);      temp = temp * 0.48828125;     Serial.print("TEMPRATURE = ");   Serial.print(temp);   Serial.print("*C");   Serial.println();   delay(1000);   if (temp > tempMax){   digitalWrite(led01, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   } if (temp < tempMid){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   } if (temp < tempMin){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW); }}

Hi Guys.I've been tinkering with ESP8266 for a couple of weeks now. It worked before the weekend, and now with only some code changes it stopped (but it does not seem to crash).My project: Tabletop clock with weather. For now I'm trying to get weather from openweather API via ESP8266. I actually managed to do the request, and now was trying to parse JSON, and at this point it stopped working.My setup: USB CP2104 CP2102 - UART TTL flashing stick Arduino Uno - only provides power to ESP (see below), RX/TX not connected.ESP8266 CH_PD and VCC powered from Arduino Uno 3.3V pin GPIO2 is connected to GND. The rest of pins are connected to the flashing stick.Problem: 1. I run flashing from Arduino IDE. 2. Compilation is ok, uploading is ok on 115200 baud, serial monitor is also 115200. 3. Sketch uploading progress is visible in IDE terminal, blue LED on ESP is rapidly blinking while uploading. 4. After upload is finished, I see something like "tail 8, checksum ... " in the serial monitor.Then I do not see anything in serial monitor. The red LED on ESP is very weak after flashing - the last time I tried to flash it - it is not visible with the lights on. The ESP does not connect to router (according to router info).Also one strange sideeffect - after flashing, wi-fi drops on my laptop.What may be the issue? Thanks.

I believe that, for the utmost of simplicity, I should begin this topic with the fact that I am a teenager who is quiet passionate about electronics, engineering, and teaching others in general. I have run several websites (each generating a plus of 200 unique visitors/day), created many circuits for school applications (projects), and many similar forms of expressing oneself such as writing. Being just about 15 today, my mind is far from creative, though. Less then three years ago, I was at, what is at this point, my "creative prime". I was publishing quality articles daily for my website, and greatly grew in the ranks of superiority among other websites in my niche. At ages 12 and 13, I was pushing content out - in addition to designing many webpages through core-coding languages - on a daily basis, requiring a load on my creativity to be pulled. Nonetheless, I always managed to tap into my inner-creativity and pull out great ideas. The Point of This Thread Less then two years later, though, I'm stuck in a bit of a muddy puddle. I cannot tune into my own creativity, for the well that it is is now very much dried up. I'm looking to somehow expand my mind and thought process. Are there any activities (keep it legal, guys(;   ) that can help? It'd be a huge inspiration. I can come up with the ideas for circuits and execute them, but from there, all of my creations fall short - they don't end up how I pictured them. The visual aspect of my brain is, uh, malfunctioning. Thanks(:

The title summarizes it.Here are the details.I want to build an artistic installation project using:- arduino as platform- simple rotary encoder that controlls the speed of a >- > stepper motor ("NEMA17 17HS8401B" 1.7A - that has enough torque to move my project)- the speed set by the encoder (the steps / clicks made by the encoder) must be counted and displayed on something (physical, NOT, on the computer screen), like > - an OLED display (I have several 0.96" SPI - 7 pin), OR > - simply on a LED matrix (I have a few 8x8s), adding / lighting one more LED as I incerment the speed click by click >- > this because there will be 3 (or even 4) such stepper motors and their correlated speed is essential to the project- also, the core of the project is to be able to change the speed of the motors while these are turning, stop/start themThe project would look like this: I turn the 3 encoders right / left (one by one) to set the exact speed I wish for each motor. To know the exact speed I need to see it on OLED or LED matrix (if you have any other idea, I'm open for proposals), while I'm not connected to the computer. Pushing (clicking) the encoder starts the motors, that will turn continuously until I stop them manually. Meantime I need to be able to change the speed of the motors separately.The motors will turn very slow, like one rotation in 2 or 5 seconds (need to test).There might be one OLED / LED matrix for each encoder. Or the three encoders connected to only one OLED, that displays continously on three rows the speeds of the motors. Might be one single switch that starts all the motors after the speeds are set (even better this way). So, there are some open posibilities, but now I'm at the main functionality part.I also have an Arduino CNC shield V3.0 and 4 stepper drivers 8825 (I thought I might use it to controll the motors).I saw different videos that address parts of my project, like connecting a rotary encoder to an arduino, or controlling stepper motors using CNC shield, but they don't do what I want and they're not connected.I'm not an expert. I manage to (kind of) understand the arduino code and modify settings of an existing project to adapt it to my needs, maybe to connect two or more projects, but not able to write code myself.Please, show me a direction of how to put things together, and I'll try to develop / build the details myself.Thank you!

Toy inventor John Austin released Mini Weapons of Mass Destruction 2 (Chicago Review Press) this past October. This awesome sequel to the Mini Weapons series includes over 30 new mini weapons with which to terrorize your office with. Here's an excerpt from the press release: "All the projects in Mini Weapons of Mass Destruction 2 are built from inexpensive, commonly kept items: binder clips, playing cards, rubber bands, markers, clothespins and discarded packaging materials. The projects - modeled after real-life gadgetry - range from "sidearms" and "weapons in disguise" to "villain mini weapons" and "surveillance and intel" and cost mere pennies to assemble. This easy-to-follow primer also features plans to construct periscopes, bionic ears, grappling hooks and code wheels. plus, each project includes a supply and tool list, italicized safety tips and step-by-step instructions supplemented by clearly marked, illustrative diagrams" I managed to get my hands on a copy and made the Grappling Hook Gun; the project was easy to follow and my project came together in under 30 minutes (including the time it took to snap a few pictures). My grappling hook went about 20 feet and I'm sure it could travel further with a few minor tweaks! So if you're reading this while sitting bored at your desk, take a look around you. If you're surrounded by un-used rubber bands, pen caps, and markers, perhaps it's time for you to assemble your own office supply arsenal! For Authors outside Canada, USA, UK and Australia The first 3 comments left here with a picture of your own version of an office supplies mini weapon of any type will receive a free copy of this book! All books have been claimed!

The model I'm building calls for 13 LED's and fiber optics running from about 6 more LED's. I have managed to get them all running on one arduino and breadboard, will this be safe? The arduino will run on a mains adapter and has a pot for flashing speed, a pot for brightness, and an on/off switch. After lots of trial an error and a lot of luck I have the other LED's acting just as I want. But I am having trouble getting 11 and 12 to stop flashing, any ideas? int sensorValue = 0; //make a variable where you can store incoming //analog values void setup(){ pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //tell arduino what you'll be using these pins pinMode(11, OUTPUT); // for (output). pinMode(10, OUTPUT); pinMode(9, OUTPUT); pinMode(8, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); //initialize serial } void loop(){ //we put the code we want executed in a loop Serial.print("sensor = " ); //sends what's in quotes via serial Serial.println(sensorValue); //sends our variable (sensorValue) //via serial digitalWrite(12,HIGH); // lights the led digitalWrite(11,HIGH); digitalWrite(8,HIGH); digitalWrite(4, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(4, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(6, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(6, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(5, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(5, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(7, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(7, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(5, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(5, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(10,HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(10,LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(9,HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(9,LOW); delay(15); }