I'm just starting out but most of the instruction I've seen on soldering (jewelry) talks about flux, the solder itself, and a torch or soldering iron. When soldering copper to copper is there a special flux and solder to be used so that the solder doesn't look "silver"? Does it matter whether you use a torch or a soldering iron?
I live in estonia. No bamboos here. So I was thinking to use copper tube. I find this http://www.aflauta.com.br/hist/bamboo.pdf Problem is inside diameter and wall thickness. If i'm getting it right for every key is right inside diameter and lenght I can buy straight copper tubes/pipes: 15mm(outside diameter) x 1,05mm(Wall thickness) 1,05x2=2.1mm 15-2.1=12.9mm(inside diameter) 18 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 18-2=16 12 x 1,0 1,0x2=2 12-2=10 10 x 0,8 2x0,8=1,6 10-1,6=8,4 Whats the best? I was thinking to use 15mm and 18mm tube 18mm for key a 15mm for key d I ended up with 15x1,05 copper tube. Thinking how to use this: http://11wall-west.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html If I use this measures http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/pvcflute.html I get 7.2mm for blow hole and 6mm for finger hole. My tube I.D is 12.9 Is there any flute calculator that calculates hole sizes for right key? I am also thankful for any flute related help what helps me to make copper flute.
Topic by DeathSuperMario 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hi, I'm asking about how to drill on copper or silver chips? I mean if there is material or chemicl help to drill on copper or silver chips to write on it or to draw. in other words how to draw or write on copper or silver chips, pls help thanks
Question by canadian nh 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I'm working on a project that requires soldering a 1/4" OD copper tube into a hole drilled in the side of a 2" copper pipe. Will a soldered join (not brazed) be sturdy or do I need to do something to reinforce (cut threads into the tube and pipe, flare the tube and insert from inside, etc) it? There won't be a lot of stress on the join but there will be a small tap on the tube to there may be a bit of torsion now and again. Thanks for your responses!
Topic by Mr. E Meat 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello, I'm new to working with wood, and I want to find a way to inlay pieces of copper into small pieces of wood. Can someone explain how I might do this. I want the copper pieces to be flush with the wood, and I like an element of spontaneity, so I'm wondering if its possible to pour molten copper into a crevice on a piece of wood. If it's not how can I at least get the piece of copper to stick into the wood? Thanks for any thoughts.
Topic by kpryce 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I'm in ceramics at my school and i was planning to make a lantern and wanted to make a handle for it. I was thinking of making a mold out of white talc and getting it fired. Then putting copper in the mold and firing it again. Is this idealistic, or better yet would it work?
Question by Klaudiuszm 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am going to AJ2013 (23 australian jamboree in maryborough) and i need to raise funds to pay for entry. i have been looking through the cupboard trying to find things to sell. i remebered this which i bought for $15 at a garage sale a few years ago. if anyone could help with identification of this and how much money i could sell it for that would be awesome. it says that it is quell fire fighting equipment, automatic, and made in 1957. it is a copper tank with copper rivets, a brass screw lid and rubber hose with brass fittings. my estimate on the capacity would be about 9 liters/2.5 gallons/20 pints. i think that you are meant to hold it upside down and the weight of the water pushes it out the nozzle. i dont know if that is right because it doesnt come out very fast.
Question by RedScoutMonkey17 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Ok, so last 4th I made fireworks for a small- and I mean small- display, and it turned out fairly well. I only had two complaints- a) It wasn't that colorful, as I was only using pine and palm charcoal for color: reddish orange.b)it wasn't electrical, and took alot of visco, as I wanted everything to go off near-instantaneously. Well, I am going to solve problem b by getting e-matches off of Skylighter, but solving a is a little harder. Then, I read that certain copper compounds could be added to create a green to green-blue color in the flame. Well, I like that idea, but I didn't know where to get the copper compounds. So I kinda left it. UNTIL TODAY!I found this page on making copper (II) chloride. Well, it seemed straightforward enough, so I was going to try it. I was only wondering about two things:a) why on the description on this page about it include hydrogen peroxide, but the page does not even mention it?b)is this safe? I guess I should be outside for the hotplate part- I can't imagine boiling/simmering HCI, inside.c) is this even possible? Does it: 1)create a form of copper that could be used with success in pyrotechnics? 2)create copper chloride at all?Any answers are appreciated. Even if they don't directly pertain to the topic, POST ANYWAY! Makes it more interesting.
Topic by John Smith 11 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I have bought a copper kettle through ebay, but found that it has a split seam which leaks at the bottom of the spout. I cant solder it as solder is lead an not safe for consumption. Any advice would be welcome, thanks.
I have a piece of flat copper, 150 mm X 30 mm X 1mm thick. I put 50 watts onto one (150 mm) end, how much arrives at the other? so: Surface area: .00015 m2 Distance: .03 m thermal conductivity copper: 400 W.m-1.K-1
Topic by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi! I plan on some experiments with a modified method i saw here for PCB-plating with copper to make the holes conductive. Now the question: What if my metal is not 100% pure but has some impurities in it? Does it still only "transfer" the copper and leaves the impurities as slag behind? I think it should be this way, since a similar approach gets used in refining metals to a very high purity; but i am unsure... Lets say i do: Follow the basic recipe (with smaller ammounts!) @ http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/consumbl/cplatmix.htm and use copper sulfide. I think the trick now is that only copper-ions get disolved in the copper sulfide and nothing else. Those ions become plated to the other pole and thus i get purest copper plated to it?
Topic by Orngrimm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Be it conductive ink, decorations or just a special pigment for your paint project, Copper is nice.Only problem is grinding this soft metal fine enough to be of any good use.A not so well documented feature of food additives is that they often have "unwanted" side effects.In our case E300, Ascorbic Acid or just Vitamin C.So how to make copper nano particles with it you might wonder?Prepare a well saturated solution of Copper Sulphate, you find the blue crystals in the gardening section together with fertilisers.It is best to use destilled water and not plain tap water, if in doubt go at least with the demineralised stuff for batteries.Adding E300 either dissolved in water or directly as crystals will start a nice reaction.The copper solphate is reduced back to metallic copper.There are a few problems though...For best results you need a saturation copper sulphate solution, low temperatures and a magnetic stirrer.This produced the finest particles for me at around 5°C.But even warm or at room temp the constant sirring is beneficial for even particle sizes.The ascorbic acid is used up in the process as well.You can start with a little and see how much you end up with in terms of a layer of copper particles at the bottom.Adding more E300 will cause a "rain" of fine copper particles - once this no longer happens you know the copper sulphate is used up as well.A dark greenish color of the solution will indicate this as well.Getting the copper out of the glass...Keep in mind the copper is extreme fine!As long as it stays in the solution it won't oxidize or otherwise react.Once out and in contact with just water and air oxidation happens quickly, after all it is pure copper...I found removing the watery solution and then adding destilled water to repeat the process is a good start.The waste from the first round can still be usefull though...In the final round I try to remove as much water as I can and then add methyled spirit to prevent the reactions.You can use oil as well or do a quick vacuum drying and store it in a sealed and oxygen free container.What to do with it?As a condictive paint with the right binder it only needs some rubbing with a smooth tool to create a conductive cover with a low resistance.In a clear paint or resin it provides some stunning color effects.You can even dust the dry powder onto a freshly painted surface to get a copper look.Leave without a top coat and you quickly get an old copper or even green look.If you ever wanted extreme fine metal particles you will come up with more ideas...Like shielding or sintering....
Topic by Downunder35m 4 weeks ago | last reply 4 weeks ago
I'm making a prop that requires a length of coiled copper tubing & I don't have the cash to buy it. I need a plastic tube that is malleable into a coil & I can spray paint it a copper color. I've experimented with some types of plastic cover electric cord & aquarium tubing & both, the plastic reacted with the paint & never dried. I need to know what types of plastic tube I can ether paint myself & wont melt the plastic, or point me in the detection of were I can find copper colored plastic tubing, or name the types of plastic tube that wont react to certain types of paint.
Topic by elkaddalek 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Hi !This morning, I was wondering what was the maximum temperature of the flame of a simple candle.So, this evening, despite the answer is on the internet, I made some quick and various experimentations of my own, mainly because there was nothing interesting at TV ...I put a wire of tin with a diameter of 1 millimetre over the flame and it liquefied immediately. So I immediately deduced the temperature of the flame was over 505oK ...Then, I tried with a wire of iron with a diameter of 1 millimetre, and it did not liquefied. So, I deduced the maximum temperature of the candle's flame was below 1811oK.Then, I tried with a very thin wire of enameled copper (thiner than a hair), the enamel vaporized in a flash and the copper wire quickly liquefied. I deduced the max temp of the flame was over 1357oK.This gave me a maximal temperature somewhere between 1357oK and 1811oK.Then, I tried with a thin wire of copper (0.2 millimitres), and it liquefied. But I also noticed that, sometimes, there was a green flame adding to the candle's flame.On the internet, they say that coppers flame are green. This would mean that my candle's flame is hot enough to vaporize my copper wire ? and, thus, that the maximal temperature of the candle flame is over 2835oK ?????If so, why can't it liquefy my 1 millimeters iron wire ?=o/
Topic by chooseausername 11 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I'm making an air "cannon", but my tubing is bent. It is 3/8 copper tubing, and is very bendy. Is there a way to get it straight, or am I better off buying a small steel tube? (I did try googling this, with no helpful results)
Question by Bartboy 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I'm trying to make copper powder and I know it can be done by electrolysis of copper sulfate solution with copper electrodes. The way I have to right now it's extremely slow so I was wondering how I could speed things up a bit. Im not using a power supply only a 20volt drill battery (because it turned out to work better somehow)
Question by CameronP33 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Has anyone ever used copper tape to concentrate heat on an object to obtain a uniform higher temperature? I've been doing some studies in the recent past that suggest polished copper foil is a good reflector of infrared energy. It is not as good as silver, but I don't think it would go over well to use silver in any sort of oven or kiln. I used to think good ole aluminum foil was good for heat, but it turns out it is only good for stopping heat. I've thought of using the instructable on the waffle iron or make one by way of a bread toaster, but will most likely not be able to go through with it. The copper foil is the same type found at stained glass craft shops.
Topic by jmikronis 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
For a project in school we are designing a simple electric generator using copper wire and a magnet. The output i'm aiming for is 15V .The fixed criteria for Faraday's law as followsE =( NBA ) / T T= 3 seconds N = adjustable A = adjustable B = Neodymium 1.32 T so how do i chose my copper wire? what diameter? what kind? how do i keep the design not so BIG . How do i increase my voltage output by using a double coil system?
Question by CharithH4 26 days ago | last reply 26 days ago
I plan on making a backdrop (pictured) out of copper. I have a little bit of experience soldering copper pipe. I have an idea of how to build the backdrop but would appreciate some feedback/tips.Dimensions:- 5' W x 7' H x 3' DMaterials: - Diagonal members: 0.1875" round bar- Circular votive holders: 0.125" round bar- Rectangular border, kickers, and base: 1/4" x 1" rectangular barI'm thinking that I will solder the diagonal members at each intersection and where the ends meet the rectangular bar frame. The base will be a 3' rectangular bar on the left and on the right. There will be a kicker on each side, connected to the base and about halfway up the vertical members of the frame.Does this seem feasible? Will the structure be stable? How can I form the circular votive holders?
Question by sjung510 5 months ago | last reply 4 months ago
I was cleaning my room and found remnants of a chemistry set. any ideas
Question by vince 09 10 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I want to know because I have always wonderd this
Question by nerd7473 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Its two foot tall, it has already built inlets and outlets, also a copper screw top to allow heating element to be placed inside, i also have copper fittings
Question by patrick murray 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hello , am trying to get a hold of some copper carbonate but its much too expensive. now i have some raw, and untarnished (beyond normal anyways) copper laying around and want to know if theres any way i can convert this into pure copper carbonate, with minimal impurities such as copper oxides and such. is there a way to do this through electrolysis perhaps? also, is there a way to convert copper and copper oxide to copper hydroxide which i can simply add carbonic acid to to copper carbonate? also whoever answers my question will get a best anser form me , guaranteed
Question by oldmanbeefjerky 8 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hi I want to refine some copper and change it to copper-dust-particles by means of copper-electrolsis in a bath of disolved coppersulfate. Since my copper is in smaller bits id like to have some sort of etallic basket to hold the scraps. I think i would like to go with a chromesteel-mesh i connect to the power. The mesh/basket contains my scrap-copper and the anode-sludge can pass thru the basket... The basket (anode) and the copper-cathode are connected to the powersupply. Now my question: I think the chromesteel shouldnt get disolved as long as i dont crank up the voltage too high or let it run without sacrificial copper at the cathode. If i would do that, it would start to split the water used in the solution and produce H and O. Bad. Also would slowly eat away the metals too. Bad^2 But as long as i have copper to be disolved at the cathode, it shouldnt do anything to my chrome-steel-basket, right? Thanks for inputs from someone who knows it better than i do :)
Topic by Orngrimm 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
If you have say 2 inch or better diameter copper wire to strip here is what I do. I have ben in the scrap arena for years. Buy a large handeled pair of shears that are only for copper. They will look much like a large pair of boltcutters. Cut your insulated wire into about two foot lenghts. Get a large pot, the bigger the better and heat with an out door propane burner full of water. Place the cut sticks of wire into the boiling water fro about five min. Get some insulated rubber gloves and a sharp razor knofe and you will find that the plastic insulation carves away like butter. This works on everykind of insulated wire I have come across. With lead wrapped insulated wire, get a plasma torch. It cutts easily and is so fast the plastic wire inside does not have time to catch on fire. Use plenty of ventilation to avoid breathing lead based fumes.
Topic by beserker 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm trying to deposit metallic copper into a piece of wood and i'm doing it with a solution of copper chloride (the alternative pcb etchant to the ferric stuff). I want to deposit metallic copper into the wood where it has soaked in and remove the chlorides altogether. Bearing in mind that i don't want much in the way of another solution, how could it be done? Could I drop in some lead to precipitate out the chloride ions or is there something else that would steal the chloride ions from copper that wouldn't be too hard for a hobbiest to obtain?
Question by The Ideanator 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
He mentions using a laser printer for copper etching, can I use my ink jet printer and get the same results? Answered
He mentions using a laser printer for copper etching, can I use my ink jet printer and get the same results?
How much copper will 1lb of Anhydrous Ferric Chloride dissolve? How much water does the Ferric Chloride need to be dissolved in? Thanks
Question by arthur92710 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
We are in the process of laying a copper penny floor in our entryway. Is there a clear coat for the uppermost layer that will bond to the pennies, and stand up to foot traffic and cleaning? Thank you for your time and consideration!
Question by laurel1020 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
When you view light through a copper pipe you see all these neat rings I wondered if anybody knew why. Thanks
Question by nurdee1 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I need several strips of copper and zinc for a science project but its frustratingly hard to find zinc anywhere in the Seattle area. I have already tried the local electronics store and plumbing store. Can you guys suggest anything not outrageously expensive and within an hour driving distance?
Topic by Plastic Fir 11 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
I know that there is copper wire, a rare earth maget, but what would the casing be made from?
I love demolishing things for parts. Often a broken AC motor is left over. Usually it contains a decent amount of copper. But the copper is mostly deeply embedded in iron (a core or a ring around it made out of stacked steel plate). Since it has been put inside the iron there must be a method to take it out. Copper prices are very high. If it can be separated quickly without melting the whole thing down, I would consider doing this myself. How?
Question by BobS 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
So I really like this clock. I think I'll buy it soon. But as a beginner's art project, I'm trying to replicate some of the metal effects here. I'm curious for techniques on how to accomplish some things, like: The back plate is copper, which the artist says is "oxidized". I expect oxidation to turn copper green, blue, or black, not this silver/grey color. Any ideas how this was done? Is it just that it's a light oxidation? I really like the metal texturing here. I've been able to replicate something similar on copper plate by hand-sanding in one direction with a fine-grained sandpaper. But notice the vertical texturing on the backplate - how would that have been done?? I like the polished metal look of the minute hand contrasting with the reflective look of the hour hand. How would you do that - similar way as the backplate? Same with the gear? I've actually made what I think are much prettier nails by taking old (originally quite rusted) square iron nails, removing the rust and grinding the crap out of them with a bench grinder until I get a cool reflective finish. Doing the grinding in patches gives it almost a hammered metal look while keeping the reflectiveness. I think the effect is cool and really works with the "old-but-new" look of the square nails. I'll post before+after pictures if anyone's interested.
Topic by ischorr 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm looking for input on the process of electroplating non-metal materials. I have never electroplated before and am open to trying the traditional method or the paint on plate solutions that are available. I'm just uncertain where/ how to begin and what to buy. The hurdle is that the items I want to plate are not metal to begin with. One website I read seemed to suggest that painting the object with a paint that contains metal flakes (like Liquid Leaf faux gold leaf, which contains soluble copper) would be enough to get a paintable silver plate to bond. Anyone have experience to weigh in with? I welcome suggestions for techniques, favorite products, etc.
Topic by ashleyjlong 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I was wondering how to remove the copper from an air conditioning motor. It is wound around the metal in several different places, and has a heavy papers inserted into each hole where the copper is looped/ The only way I have found is to take a screwdriver and pound each hole with a hammer to push the copper out. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Trying to scrap several motors of there copper.
Question by tweetygirl0612 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have an old house that uses steam heat and has big, single-pipe, cast-iron steam radiators. I wanted to replace one of them with something modern looking, and one company sells such radiators, but they are very expensive (sold here http://steamradiators.com/) My question is, can I make one of these out of large (1.5" or so) diameter copper pipes, soldered together in the same fashion? I've read that steam systems typically operate at 1psi of pressure, which sounds like it's well below the safety limit of copper pipes and solder joints. I think it would look fantastic, but would it work?
Topic by mhj555 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi! I think i will see some PCB-Etchin in the future... So i will need an etchant. Aequous copper chloride was the choice i made since it is a regenerative etchant according to several sources. Now if i understood the chemistry right (Sorry... electrotechnician here), the reaction in theory only needs the oxygen from the peroxide (H2O2) and the hydrogen isnt used at all? Since i only have relatively weak peroxide, i plan on using a bubbler to introduce the oxygen to the copper-HCI-mix. This because i dont want to dilute the acid too much... Will that work? I know that if i use normal air (which has only around 20% oxygen in it) it will take some time... But would it work in the first place? I read somewhere that copper and muriatic acid dont really react in the first place... So if i also understood that right, it needs the oxygen present in the beginning to START reacting... So i think i may go with a contraption like: Plastic container with a bubbler installed (Pumps normal air) Add Muriatic acid to the container Add copper to the acid let it bubble till the copper is disolved Now i have a copper chloride-solution which i can regenerate by adding oxygen (By bubbler or H2O2)?
Topic by Orngrimm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago