Sometimes I see instructables with bullets that are in the shape of fingerprints. How do I do this?
Question by kcls | last reply
Hi. I own an 1GB USB drive whose data can be protected using your fingerprint as authentication method. I wonder if I can use its fingerprint reader to log in a Mac or a PC instead of the password and how, possibly without having to tear it down. If this is not possible, I also own an Authentec internal fingerprint reader from an old laptop; I could use it but I really have no idea about how could I connect it to a PC. Thank you. More info about the device: http://www.digitalreviews.net/reviews/storage/ntegrity-professional-secure-usb-drive-reviewed.html
Question by Jaggions | last reply
Dear All, As the subject, does anyone know R308 fingerprint module? I really need it's pinouts detail. I already try to searching but still couldn't find it. Or at least, please advice me where should I search it? Thank you
Topic by yogi.setiawan.520 | last reply
Hi all was just wondering if possibel could you use a normal pc photo scanner as a finger print scanner for windows ???? ie so i could logon to windows by putting my hand on the scanner or is there anysoftware that could munipilate windows into thinking that a normal scanner was a fingerprint scanner cheers
Question by crazymanc | last reply
Question by AhmadQ8 | last reply
I have problem I using terminal L300 with U.are.U 4500 Fingerprint but Fingerprint not responding in this L300 Terminal We need to work with both equipment in the computer host this fingerprint working well I need help for activate both equipment thanks
Topic by JorgeRdz7310
Anybody fancy making a fingerprint-reading doorbell, that gives out different rings/does different things depending on who it is? Maybe even with an option to ignore anybody whose print is not registered for the days when one is too murderous to deal with the general public? From scratch(ish), would be a waste to destroy an expensive security system just for this (maybe).
Topic by Danielfish | last reply
Hey, I'm wanting to make a fingerprint scanner to go on a hidden door (made into a bookcase), the hiding of the scanner isn't a factor i'm worrying about at the moment - But i can't afford to pay out like £50 just for a scanner! Or if you can think of any alternatives to this, that would be great too! (: Thanks!
Question by Squiggmont | last reply
I have a Fingerprint reader from a Lenovo W510. The model number of the circuit board is 48.4CU13.011, which seems to be shared by both my Lenovo and another Fujitsu laptop. The fingerprint reader is a spare part, and I thought it could be cool if I could hook it up to a PC by USB. When connected to the laptop in question, it shows up as a USB device: UPEK Touchstrip TCRD4C - USB ID 147e:2016 The chip is connected by an 8 pin ribbon cable to a larger ribbon cable which also connects to the touchpad. Looking at the board under a magnifying glass, it looks like there may only be 4 of 8 pins connected to the ribbon cable connector. The chip on the circuit board appears to be a TCD50 fingerprint reader controller, made by UPEK or possibly Authentec (did Authentic take over UPEK?) I was hoping someone might have some experience wiring this board up to USB, or could point me in the right direction to figure out what pins go where. I looked for datasheets, schematics, and pinouts without success, but I don't have much experience searching for this type of stuff. I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, so I feel confident that if I knew which pins went where, I could get a cable hooked up.
Topic by Jozer99 | last reply
The dead laptop is a HP Pavillion dv3 4010sl, the sensor is a Validity VFS301 (cdk1071_r04_hf) as written on the sensor itself. if i remember correctly it was shown as a USB peripheral. maybe is simple and it need just some resoldering to a USB cable, the problem is that the flat cable connecting it to the motherboard has 6 pins/lines and my knowledge in electronics is quite limited... I've found online what seems like a motherboard schematics (pg.48) and the vendor's sensor's manual. Does Anyone knows if is possible, If yes how?
Topic by CladZo91 | last reply
I need advice on how to make a fingerprint scanner control a 12v relay for use as a keyless ignition for my car. I know how to do the wiring as far as the car's ignition/starting system, what I don't know is how to make a fingerprint scanner close a 12v relay and keep it closed until I turn the car off. Any help, suggestions, or guidance would be appreciated.
Question by DGAF | last reply
The dead laptop is a HP Pavillion dv3 4010sl, the sensor is a Validity VFS301 (cdk1071_r04_hf) as written on the sensor itself. if i remember correctly it was shown as a USB peripheral. maybe is simple and it need just some resoldering to a USB cable, the problem is that the flat cable connecting it to the motherboard has 6 pins/lines and my knowledge in electronics is quite limited... Does Anyone knows if is possible? I've found online what seems like a motherboard schematics: here attachements: sensor manual
Question by CladZo91 | last reply
Question by ARJOON | last reply
Presently i am using Biometric system In Singapore and i got fixed by an Agency.. i am facing regular problems with that system, they are not responding well.. how can i approach for new one ?
Question by luciabenn | last reply
I acquired a nice set of drums from my nephew. Dixon 5 drums and 5 cymbals. 2 cymbals are Sabian B8 with fingerprints all over. Some cleaned up with water but most are "etched?" in. What is the best cleaner to use without damage.
Topic by AntRRmam | last reply
I want to use my fingerprint and replace the pattern with the text from my bio
Question by lcody | last reply
This fingerprint reader module is from hannstar-j m.b. which I extracted from a old sony laptop (I dont have SN or model no). This module has weird type of 10 pin socket connector. Can any1 tell me the pinouts for it....? I want to connect in to my new laptop via USB or PS2. I tried to connect it with same type of connector from BT module but it didn't connect. Please help....
Question by shreyask9 | last reply
Its from an acer travelmate 5530, i still have the board it was attached to, but the piece itself has 10 pins sticking out of it, there is a chip on the board that the finger scanner was connected to that has a 8 pin chip, then the 2 mouse buttons, and a interface cable. is it even feasibly possible to reuse this fingerprint scanner?
Question by zack247 | last reply
I recently purchased a used computer at a flea market. it is a dell studio 3515. once home, i turned the computer on and it wanted to verifiy my fingerprint. (later finding out that this device is called a "finger print reader"..........sooooooooooo now i have made a purchase for an item that i can not utilize up to the present. i am currently aware of the passworkd recovery and removal tool; however, i can not even get to that point. P L E A S E TELL ME....IS THERE ANY WAY THAT I AM ABLE TO UNLOCK THE FINGER PRINT READER AS WELL AS THE PASSWORD? ANY INFORMATION AND GUIDANCE WILL BE APPRECIATED!
Question by johnshericosmo | last reply
I got the new Skullcandy pipe speakers. www.skullcandy.com/shop/pipe-chrome.html it is used and i dont know much anything about cleaning or cleaning products and it just has fingerprints and smudges and such on it. How would i make it look spick and span and brand new once again?
Question by CrawdadMan | last reply
Hey friends! I and our friends are working on this instructable for our school project. : Using fingerprint sensor for time attendance in combination with xAMP solution But i'm a beginner in arduino and want someone's help. I posted to the author but i think he is also new to instructables so he seldom comes online. Anyways. So there are many things i want to learn. Plz someone help me. The project we are working on will first enroll the fingerprints of students (atleast 50-60 in a class of our school) and then upload the data to the xAMP (or WAMP) database. And there will be 3 pairs of 7 segment led mounted on a board like given in the image, which will display the real-time data of Present and Absent students. First i want to know is this fingerprint sensor compatible with the program given in the above instructable, because it looks a bit different from the one adafruit.com and comes without jack and wire. Also im unable to download the registreer.php file given by the author and i dont know how to use it and the sql file. At last is there a way to use serial or bluetooth communication instead of wifi to make this project because it is going out of our budget. Plz help anyone. i will be very obliged. thanks in advance..... :)
Question by SnehilSensei | last reply
Did you guys see this! I bet one of you could make one too! Pretty cool! Enjoy! Someone Built A Real-Life Thor's Hammer That Can Only Be Lifted By Its Creator http://www.iflscience.com/technology/youtuber-builds-real-thors-hammer-electromagnets
Topic by BLASTFEMI | last reply
I'd like to start playing with electronic locks. I'm looking at this type of thing. (ebay item # 200260301195). But how would I power it (I'm in the UK) and how would I control it? For example how could I use a cheap chinese remote control or a basic fingerprint reader or a keypad? Thanks!
Question by dan_ce | last reply
I'm taking apart a Kodak 4200 projector. The lamp assembly includes a piece of "heat absorbing glass". The manual says not to touch it unless wearing gloves, to keep it covered when out of the projector, and that it may shatter. Being clueless, this sounds spooky. Is it dangerous, or will I just wreck it for projection if I get fingerprints on it? Most glass shatters, but is this going to spontaneously burst into shards? It's not going back into the projector. Is it useful for anything, or should I wrap it in foil and toss it in the garbage?
Question by mole1 | last reply
Today I got a little Idea. I looked at my floor and saw my 160gb external hdd, my ethernet switch, my usb hub, and usb my wireless router. And I had an Idea the idea to put them all in one. So that I can wirlessly/wired boot off my usb hdd from anywhere in the house. Then I can use anyones computer in the entire house leaving only my fingerprints. But my idea is missing on core component THE PROCESSOR. Sure I could plug it all into my computer but that makes it less portable and kills the idea. Did I mention I want to fit it in my backpack and run it all off a battery ? ( then I can run it at school )
Topic by littlechef37 | last reply
I tried to post this earlier but either something went went wrong or I was too blonde to find it, so if i is adouble plese ignoreand delete! My intention was to enter the Make it Glow contest with a better and more complete version of my forever Light. But after checking some entries I decided against it. There are a lot of totally unrelated entries in the contest and I fail to see the point in entering if obviously noone cares about what goes into a contest. For example a hovercraft, cordless screwdriver, fingerprint scanners, remote controlled robots, space doors or cmputer controlled flower pots..... I though the reason for a contest would be to have stuff in there that fits th contest.... I know some standards are not that high but isn't it a bit too low to allow totally unrelated entries into a contest??? Me, I simply don't see how a contest can be fair if the entry rules are already being completely ignored and obviously noone here cares to remove those entries... For that simple reason I won't support a contest with my entry.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Sign-up for our newsletter here. Dec. 6, 2007 Welcome back! The holidays are almost upon us. To celebrate, Instructables and CRAFT Magazine are announcing the beginning of the Homemade Holidays Contest! Win a CRAFT boxed gift set, a robot holiday ornament, and other cool prizes. Check out these cool instructables! The World's Loudest Party Popper - The Most Portable Film Canister Cannon A powerful pocket-sized noisemaker you can make from re-used components.posted by Kiteman on Nov 14, 2007 How To Fool a Fingerprint Security System As Easy As ABC This instruction will show you how to fool most of the fingerprint security systems out there. posted by tycoyoken on Dec 3, 2007 Personal Wicked Laser Light Show Create your own personal laser light show with everyday objects. posted by FathomBoy91 on Dec 2, 2007 LCD Overhead Projector Get a free LCD from a dead laptop and turn it into your own video projector.posted by waterppk on Dec 1, 2007 Create Your Own Top-Down Blinds Create top-down blinds for a fraction of the cost of special order blinds!posted by jen_higginbotham on Dec 1, 2007 Win a laser cutter worth over $15,000! Building a climbing wall at the top of the stairs With a climbing wall in your home you'll be able to climb for 20-30 minutes every day with almost no setup time. posted by ewilhelm on Nov 30, 2007 How To Make A Ball Machine! Have you ever wondered about how to make enormous and Wondrous Ball Machines? Now you can design and build your own!posted by Trainman 2000 on Dec 2, 2007 Strong and Tough Platform Bed DIY Build a DIY platform bed that will last for years for $60-$90. posted by trz on Dec 3, 2007 Novel Use for a Condom! There's more than one way to use a condom to stay healthy.posted by LUCCHINA on Nov 22, 2007 How to make artArt-making is one of the easiest and most lucrative of human activities. Learn to make it in exchange for food, shelter, sex, fame and money.posted by randofo on Nov 28, 2007 Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric
Topic by fungus amungus
Hello fellow instructable'r,I have been trying to make my own custom guitar picks and, so far, have been extremely surprised with my results. First, i wondered if it was possible for a guitar pick to even run through my printer (regular load in front, print to front) without jamming it. I found out that i could. Then, i tried printing a NIN (Nine Inch Nails) logo on it and it worked. My only problem is that i can't get the ink to dry and become durable enough to let me touch it and not take ink off/ make fingerprints on it. For now, i have put tape over the side i printed on, but is there any way that you know of that i can make the ink more permanent? I was thinking of maybe using clear coat spray or that clear top coat for nail polish. Just so you guys know, i used a yellow dunlop tortex .73mm pick.Thanks,-Nick
Topic by tubbychick3n | last reply
My laptop only has two external USB ports. I keep a mouse plugged into one constantly, but I now need to use an external USB drive that needs more amps than one port can supply. I use a Y cable that pulls power from two ports, but I can't use my mouse at the same time. (Which is really a non-starter with the work I'm doing.) There are about 5 internal USB buses available, all of which have one port available, all drawing minimal power (fingerprint sensor, web cam, sd card reader, etc.) My wacky idea is to tie the voltage pins from one of these 'spare' ports to one of the external ports to provide the amps needed, similar to what the Y-cable is doing but keeping it internal and keeping one more USB port available. I've had this laptop apart and know that I can do the wiring, but I'm curious about how high the potential is to cause massive damage. Any pointers?
Question by Grathio | last reply
Hey there,my future wife and I are looking for some fancy wedding rings. Well, we're both geeks, so it should be something that involves electricity or a nifty function ;-)Unfortunaly she's allergic to some metal components often used in steel or gold/silver, so titan or something like that would be more suitable. Aluminum or some plastics would work too, i guess.Thats the problem right there. Even if we'd find something online or a store that makes rings, they'll probably not work with titan since its harder to work with.I found some LED rings athttp://www.flashingblinkylights.com/aurora-color-changing-led-ring-sku-no-10209.htmhttp://www.timhunkin.com/32_jewellery.htmhttp://www.lightupshop.com/resources/lightupshop/html/products_LIJW_1.htmlbut as allways the problem is the metal and of course power.A battery would either have to be replacable or rechargable ;D (capacitor? but even a low current led wont even flash up with a tiny capacitor?)A solarcell so tiny it'll fit ontop of a ring without looking redicoulus would not be efficient enough I'dd guess.Of course, as previously stated, it could be something mechanical (as http://www.switzerwatch.com/product_info.php?language=en&viID;=30&products;_id=1297 for example)A nifty idea would be if the rings would actually do something when brought together (magnetism, induction, mechanism).I also had the idea of the rings morsing the date every few minutes on radio, much like http://www.mcmanis.com/chuck/robotics/projects/eelb.htmlif all fails we'll just look into something cool to engrave (there are rings with laser engraved fingerprints as example) or we'll just embed a electronic part such as a resitor with a value representing the day we've met or such.ANY (cool) ideas apreceated, especialy about LEDs, sources/shops, adresses to shops customizing, and so on (but please, nothing over 50-200 bucks, we're not rich).I hope you guys / gals dont start to laugh at us now. We cant help it. We just want something unique and not a golden ring with some diamond. Some people really have rings that look ugly! Well, geeky LEDs do too, but at least they do something ;-)
Topic by schorhr | last reply
(I am planning on doing a forum post for each day of my trip in Japan. The first few days will just be copy pasted from my blog (but now with pictures, and image notes!), and after that I will type up the entry I kept for each day in my journal)I am writing this all on my eee pc, and, while I am getting the hang of this tiny keyboard, typing mistakes are common. I am also in various states of mental functioning so excuse any grammatical errors.I woke up at around 6:45 on Thursday morning. I had been feeling a bit under the weather, and was slightly congested. I really hoped that I did not catch something right before my trip. I woke up the other interns (Bilal, Josh, and Paul), because I knew they would be very sad and might cry, if I did not give them the last chance to say goodbye to me. We did a 4 way shoulder-tap, the universe imploded, and I was off.As I walked down Clementina I realized that it would be the last time I smelled that poo stench on the street. I had mixed feelings about this.The BART ride to SFO was very uneventful. Check in was amazingly fast. The line was short and moved quickly. I had almost everything I was taking with me in my carry-on. There was nothing in my checked baggage but knives and lint (one knife & one swiss tech mulikey). Anyway the whole process of checking in took about 15 minutes. The security checkpoint was even faster. There was no line, and for the first time in a long time I didn't set off the metal detector. I had shown up three hours before my flight to be safe, and I was now left with two hours and forty minutes to kill.I went to the currency exchange and turned 300$ into 27,000 yen. The Lonely Planet guidebook I have (which was printed just last year), has the exchange rate of one USD to 120 Yen, at the exchange booth they offered about 98 Yen for a dollar, google says the current rates are 107 yen to a dollar. Stupid weak American money. Anyway, I used ten dollars which I did not convert to yen to buy an english muffin breakfast sandwich and a gatorade. I went to my terminal, and accidentally dropped the barely touched sandwich on the floor while removing my backpack. I was hungry :(I read for two hours then boarded the plane at around 11. There were many people coughing on this eleven hour flight, so I did not have high hopes for avoiding sickness. Read some more on the flight, watched iron man in Japanese, watched iron man in english, and watched be kind rewind. They served two decent meals, and a few snacks in between. Ten hours later when we were finally over Japan, I went to the back of the plane, and stared out the window in the emergency exit door to get my first view of Japan.We landed around 2 pm on Friday. It was hot, so very hot (humid too). I filled out my customs form, got fingerprinted, and photographed, and made my way over to the baggage claim to pick up my knives. I made my way out of the airport to the train, and bought a ticket for what I hoped was a kanayama station bound train. Turns out it was. (cue the "ding" sound that is played on the audio tracks for slideshows, when it is time to change the slide). The first few pictures are of Kanayama station. There was a cool little inflatable pool, with little kids in miniature paddle boats. They also had a bunch of those water mist sprayers that people stand in front of to cool off.I relaxed at the train station for a bit before I caught the number 12 bus. I took it to the Ishikawa Bashi stop, and got off. I used a pay phone to call up Changmi who I had found on couchsurfing.com. I actually set up the couchsurf with her husband (who was out of town) who said it would be ok for me to stay, so I think she was a little surprised when I called. She said that she was currently hosting two couples who each had a small child. It was cool if I stayed, but it would be crowded. She picked me up at the nearest intersection with her mother, one of the couples, and their child in the car.We drove to downtown Nagoya and they let us out. Changmi and her mother were going somewhere, so I hung out with Sarah, Seba, and their daughter Maya. They were couchsurfers from France who had been in Japan for a couple of weeks. We walked around central park in downtown Nagoya for a bit. There is the large TV tower at one end of the park, and a bunch of art pieces scattered about randomly (metal taco boat thing). We went and got dinner, which I later found out to be pig intestines, with an egg, over rice. It was pretty good.After eating we took the subway back to Changmi's house and slept.Japan Day 2
Topic by Tetranitrate | last reply
Report of the McMADSAT event 14th March 2009, at the Glasgow Science CentreWe had a fantastic day. Outside it was a grey gale of a day, but inside was a riot of colour and activity. The aim was to enthuse the public with the fun of making things from a variety of technologies. Anyone who wanted to, could join in, make something and take it away with them, and all for free. Hundreds of people of all ages came along and had a great time. A general video of the event can be seen at https://www.instructables.com/community/Mc_MADSAT/ (Thanks to Les Oates for making this excellent film for us).I am happy to discuss further with anyone planning their own event, and you can see more about it and the process by which I got the event going, at http://mcmadsat.blogspot.com/ExhibitorsStar Guest, all the way from London, was Professor Maelstromme (AKA Amanda Scrivener), who brought her beautiful creationsWhat can you make from a dead umbrella? Display of the possibilities for reusing the fabric and structure of dead umbrellas.The Tea Party. 1950s style tea party made from a combination of hand made fabric and edible pieces.Cardboard structures from the students of the department of Architecture at the University of Strathclyde.Greensteam's steampunkery, 101 uses for a dead keyboard and other examples of her work as shown on Instructables.The Offline Mechanical Blog Ã¢â¬â€ a very old manual typewriter with continuous paper available for the public to type their messages and thoughts on for all to shareLemonie (another Instructables enthusiast, who travelled up from York especially) brought his amazing conversion of a VHS player-into-toaster that makes toast with VHS imprinted in it. He also brought his nice LEGO USB stick, a lantern made out of a tin-can & glass. and his *untested* wind-turbine, made from VHS player parts.On the Young Makers stand we had a display of virtuoso Lego constructions and an extensive collection of home made Steampunkery.The self-replicating machine from the department of Design Manufacture and Engineering Management at the University of Strathclyde, the Reprap, was on display and moving but sadly not reproducing on the day.ActivitiesThe public were offered a wide range of free hands-on activities, which ran continuously all day, to 'Make and Take'Soldering - make a solar theremin (or a robot). 16 of these were made and all worked first time. Some were taken for a trial run in the sun and a video of this can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzUZMon3vpA The Stemnet ambassadors helped visitors to make their own Musical Straw Oboes.One of the most popular activities Ã¢â¬â€ especially with children Ã¢â¬â€ the Stemnet ambassadors supervised the making of many handsfull of Gloop.The Stemnet ambassadors used the plastic Polymorph for visitors to make a fingerprint keyring to take away.Fishy things - Busy Bees Art studio provided painting and collage fishes to make, particularly for our very young visitors.The Glasgow Crocheted Coral Reef invited visitors to try their hands at crocheting and contribute to the growing coral reef, all made from wool and even strips of plastic bag. Many total novices not only tried their hands but actually completed a piece of coral to contribute to the reef. This workshop area was very busy throughout, with visitors typically spending 30 minutes or more participating. Many thanks to my civil engineer pal who ran this.House of Cards - visitors could make and take their own set of the design classic 'Eames cards', which slot together to form fantastical structures. Ideal for recycling old greetings cards.Cable necklets, keyboard bracelets and keyboard film wallets. All made from recycled/repurposed materials from dead keyboards. Popular with adults and children alike.Risk assessments were provided to the Glasgow science centre, for all the activities. There were no injuries and the 'emergency first aid bucket of water' was not needed as there were no soldering or gluegun burns.Participant Presenters30 people were involved on the day, either as exhibitors or as workshop facilitators. An essential component of the team was the group of11 Stemnet ambassadors, most of whom were there all day. It would have been impossible to run so many activities without them. Another group in the team was the members of the Glasgow Electron Club who, with some friends and a Stemnet ambassador, ran the soldering workshops continuously all day. We were particularly fortunate to have two exhibitors travel up specially to take part. Several exhibitors were entrepreneurs who gave their time for nothing, even though the venue rules meant they could not sell anything, nor charge for the activities being provided. This was especially generous given the harsh financial climate just now. Everyone said they had lots of fun.PublicOver 1,000 people visited the Glasgow Science Centre on the day. The BSA/NSEW assessment forms collected only represent <10% of the visitors to the McMADSAT area. Stallholders and workshop facilitators estimated a total of about 425 active participants (people who did an activity, or asked questions and generally interacted with the displays) by 1530 (GSC shuts at 1700). However, even these only represent a proportion of the people visiting the event which, although not recorded, probably amount to about double that, since most of the activities were taken up by children accompanied by other family members. The numbers at any given time were variable, depending upon the GSC's own activities/talks etc. I would estimate that the McMADSAT area was visited by at least 700-800 during the day. From the few assessment forms returned, and from chatting to the public, it was clear that most had come simply because they were coming to the GSC anyway, but some (mainly young adults) had come as a result of internet and email information or because of the Metro article. The GSC visitors seem to be mainly families with children of primary school age. The University of Glasgow Steampunk Society had come especially to make contact with the steampunk element, as featured in the Metro article. We also collected some contact details for future events. BudgetThe total budget for the event was the Â£500 grant provided from NSEW Scotland scheme. This had to cover all the exhibitors' costs and the costs for the free make and take activities, plus all publicity etc.In-Kind Sponsors:The Glasgow Science Centre provided free space, tables, cloths, technical assistance, without which the event would not have been possible at all.The publishers of Make and Craft magazines, O'Reilly's, did not feel able to sponsor us in the same extent as they did for the much larger event in Newcastle on the same day, but did send boxes of back issues of their magazines to give away, which probably amounted to an equivalent of about Â£300 at UK newsstand prices.Clockworkrobot.com provided more theremin kits than contracted for, which were themselves at cost price.Madlabs provided free batteries for all the kits they supplied at cost.Instructables.com assisted with publicity and allowed the use of their logo.VenueNone of this would have been possible at all, particularly on this minimal budget, without the kindness of the Glasgow Science Centre. The Director agreed immediately to offer us the space free, plus the use of tables and technical help to enable this event to take place. We were able to partially set up the night before which was very helpful in avoiding a scramble on the day. We were able to get the loan of 4 GSC soldering irons which avoided us having to get personal ones PAT tested. This was the ideal venue for us as it meant we really didnÃ¢â¬â¢t have to do a great deal of publicity as we could be sure of an audience from the GSC's normal throughput.PublicityThe event was listed in the NSEW diary and in the university of Strathclyde's NSEW information. Posters were distributed around venues in Glasgow and information posted on relevant websites. A blogspace http://mcmadsat.blogspot.com was set up as a temporary web presence to refer people to. The Metro published a small piece which was a wonderful boost.Lessons for the futureNeeded more helpers and more exhibitors. Outdoor displays would have been impossible as the weather was dreadful, but it is still necessary to have some more dramatic displays as well as the hands on activities. Successful soldering for novices really needs 1:1 or 1:2 supervision. The budget only worked because minimal publicity was done at low cost and all the participant presenters were generous with their time and resources. Anything more ambitious than what was done on this occasion would need a larger organising team and significant sponsorship.
Topic by greensteam | last reply
Making a working ultrasonic soldering iron is not as easy as I though it would be.Finding tanrsducer of suitable design and size is even harder.So I thought I start with something easier and share the thoughts here.If you need to solder impossible to solder things then quite often you could get away by wetting the entire area.For example the end of a wire or a lug where it won't matter that you can solder on the bottom as well as the top.Back in my days flux core solder was a rare and very expensive thing to find.So we had a little soldering pot and flux pot instead for working with lots of wires.Dip, dip, done....The pre-soldered wires where then easy to work with and the ramaining flux on then was enough.Doing this for metals like aluminium, stainless steel or even ceramics seems impossible at first sight.China offers cheap ultrasonic transducers including the required driver electronics for very littel money these days, despite the trade wars.The most obvious solution would then be to get a cheap and big enough soldering bath and to attach the transducer to it....Won't work though and if it does then not for long.Problem is firstly the heat transfered to the ceramic parts of the trandsucer and secondly the fact that most of these soldering baths use quite thick steel for the container.Add the that you deal with quite some grams of molten metal and you know where I am going.Building your own ultrasonic soldering bath to solder the impossible with ease!Project costs:40kHz transducer with driver board : about 50 bucks.Thin walled stainless steel bowl ( about 50 to 100ml but go bigger if you like) : about 2 bucks.Leftovers for an enclosure can be wood, plasic or your favourite 3D printer.Ultrasonic horn: About 500 bucks from your favourite engennering company or you need to make it yourself - I prefer the later.Main design considerations for the horn:We need something to keep the heat away from the transducer that also amplifies the power coming from it.That is why we can use a bowl or container that has a small bottom daimeter as the transducer if need be ;)There is a good reason a commercial horn costs a lot of money.They are preferably made from titanium and they need to perform as advertised right from the start.We substitude by using some aluminium round stock and a lathe.It is advisable to leave the transducer as it is!Do not take it apart to mount your horn directly onto the ceramics!Use a long enough set screw or include the required thread on your horn to mount it onto the transducer.If you prefer to use stainless steel doe to the lower heat conductivity then be my guest.The horn should have the same diameter as the mating part of the transducer for a quarter of the wavelength of the transducers frequency in the given material.Please look up how fast sound travels in your choosen material and calculate it properly.Having the lenght of the thick part right is quite cruicial.The thinner part that amplifies our movements should be about a quarter of the diameter of the transducer.For example: if the mating face of the tansducer is 40mm in diameter then the thin part of the horn should be 10mm.The length again is a quarter of the wavelength or the same as the thick part.Where thick meets thin please allow for a 3 to 5mm radius and make sure this area is nice and smothly finnished.Now, length is quite critical here....As we will mount our finnsihed actuator free hanging under the bath we need a feasable way to comapensate for our tolerances by creating our horn without a simulating software. I found that welding a short stub onto the container works best but with aluminum it is harder.I assume most will opt for welding a 6mm soft steel threaded rod onto the container.Either way the container surface must be kept flat for the mating surface of our actuator rod.So it is best to make the stud yourself or to use a suitable replacement - like using some flux and your stick welder for create a makeshift spot welder ;)If you decided on using steel for the horn then of course you can just mill a 10mm piece with a suitable thread and flat mating surface...What you want to end up with is a screw connection that has a flat mating surface and no empty spaces, fine thread prefered.Tuning the horn....The ensclosure is easy to make as a box, so the only thing to worry about is insulation but nothing to affect performance.So I just assume you have it all ready ;)With the horn at one quarter wavelength either end our thin end will be too long unless a short stud is used for a direct fit.So whatever you had to add for the part on your container or bowl need to be removed from he horns thin end.Try to keep the gad for the threaded part as small as possible as it affects the resonace.As things never turn out perfect the first try I prepare some thin steel washers - 100mm outer diameter in case you wonder and stick with the above example.I use a strong neodymium magnet and belt sander to create washers from very thin to slightly thinner ;)Taking off slightly more from the horns end will then allow toadd these washers if required - but please do a try as it is first when you think you got the measurements all right!For an aluminium horn you will of course use aluminium washers here.To do so fill the container with some water and place a sheet of thin alumiium foil on top of the water.Turn it on and within a few seconds you should see holes appearing in the fiol or even small fractures.If nothing but noise happens it is quite certain your rod will be a bit too long.Unscrew and take about one tenth of a mm off the thin end of the horns mating surface to shorten it.Try again with the foil and if no better remove some more material.Once you see some action try adding a layer of aluminium foil between the mating surfaces - screw it tight!The foil won't last long but if the action on the water is far better until it fails you know you took off too much.The washers come into place if the tuning won't work at all.Sometimes you can cut off a little bit again and again but the piece will remain too short ;)Especially if you have an aluminium horn and needed to use a steel screw on the bowl...So once the shortening of the horn fials you add a washer to get slightly above the original length and start replacing the differently thick washer until you find a sweet spot.The tricky part is over, now to solve the heating poblem...Using some glass seal as used on wood fire ovens not olnyl provides good insulation to our enclosure but also prevents the vibrations from spreading too far.As our hardware store won't just give use the little bit we need the rest can be used to insulate our container.Dending on the size and shape of your container I hope you decided to buy a container tha fits your heating element...I found that replacement coils for lab heaters work fine but some small fan heaters also use round heating elements instead if wire spirals.For a custom shape it is quite easy to use a coil of heatin wire rated for your mains voltage and a glass fibre sleeve for insulation.To keep it all in shape just wrap some steel wire over it - over the insulated coils of course.The temperature control can be as fancy as with a microcontroller or as simple as using a dimmer like I did.Most heating elements will go glowing red hot if the mains voltage is not reduced.It makes sense to limit the dimmer's movements accordingly by testing it.Just do it in the dark afeter exposing a small bit of the heating wire from the insulating sleeve.Once you see a faint glow coming dial it back a bit until you can see any glow - that should be the max setting.For a big bath or to save time you can of course crank it up to what the glass insulation can tolerate but be aware that solder can boil over!I do a temperature check either with a touch free IR thermometer of by checking how quickly some rosin boils off.If you need to dip bigger parts you need a higher temperature, so I think a digital or sensor temp control is not really required.Once you found a sweet spot to hold the solder temp long enough without getting too hot or cold just mark it for reference ;)Using the ultrasonic soldering bath correctly.Cavitation is what the work for us, so we only need to activate the ultrasonic part when we need it with a push button or food pedal switch.We do not use any flux or resin!That means if you used the bath for normal soldering and or resin then clean the remains off the surface first.A shiny and clean surface is best but the oxidisation will happen quickly so don't be too disappointed ;)Start by dipping in a clean copper wire.Some solder might stick but it won't look proper.Now dip it in again and while it is in push the button for about 3 seconds.Like magic, if tuned properly your wire is soldered and properly covered to where it was dripped in.Try the same with some slightly sanded or at least clean aluminium wire, but use the button right away for about 5 seconds.The wire should be coated with solder once more.You can try a glass rod or some stainless wire next but I guess the working principle is clear now ;)Not everything will bond with solder, especially not if it is not clean.A piece of glass with your fingerprint on it might just fail and some ceramics will only let the solder stick without actually bonding.You should always check the mechanical strength of your soldered connection before having to rely on it ;)And why would you need such a machine?Well, most people won't have any use for it.Those who do might not be able to afford a commercial model.And there is always those who just want it all...If you know why you need such a thing than you have an alternative now at a fraction of the cost.You only need a lathe or someone who can machine the horn for you.Another benefit is that for smaller containers it is possible to weld a small "bridge" over the top.Should be placed so the bottom is in the solder while top is above it.In many cases you will then be able to use this plate to heat up whatever you need to solder on.Like a glass plate where you would like to solder a wire to.Once up to temp turn the ultrasonic part on and use a normal soldering iron and flux flree solder.Works quite well for these small solar panel kits...Ok, and how far away is our cheap ultrasonic soldering iron?Not that far :)I already have a topic for this though....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply