Airsoft gun modifications

Ya is it possible to covert a crappy spring airsoft gun into a good CO2 powered airsoft gun and if there is how thanks

Topic by Monkeyfisher   |  last reply


Nerf Gun Modification Services

Hey all. I've been modifying nerf blasters for about 2 years now, and would like to make my services availbable to everyone. From integrations to breeches, you can find it here. I'll be willing to modify the following (to a certain extent on some blasters): Nightfinder Maverick Big Bad Bow Longshot Recon Switchshot Airtech 2000 Titan Scout My contracts will consist of a blaster that you send (or the money FOR the blaster and service). I will then perform the modification and send it back to you. Or, we can discuss the type of blaster you're looking for, make it a suprise, THEN talk prices. http://s588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/?action=view&current;=Movie.flv http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/CopyofCopyofNerfCrap005.jpg http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/Image-22.jpg http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/Image-19.jpg http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/IMG_5534.jpg http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/Image-1.jpg http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss330/homasimpson/Image.jpg Copy and paste those links into your browser, they're pictures but I don't know how to attatch them. Also willing to do paintjobs and detailing. Contact me at chris11995522@aim.com or I/M me via AIM.

Topic by Chris11995522   |  last reply


Airsoft Watergun Modification

I was wondering if anyone has ideas if and how I could convert Airsoft, Nerf, etc. into a more realistic water gun. I was thinking some ideas of being able to shoot these guns, with red dyed water, without a need to wear face or body protection. Magazines could be the storage of the water, and lower fps so, as my main point, was to not wear protective gear. If anyone knows anything, or a website I missed, I have searched everywhere and found only water guns to Airsoft. Thank you for your help.

Topic by zombiefinatic 


what should i name this high powered discshot? Answered

It gets 70 feet with a stephan

Question by SorryBarry   |  last reply


My nerf gun mod fails?

So I got my Nerf Longshot a few years ago and I decided to mod it. I went and removed the air restrictors. Being Really Excited, I went to go test it out. It turns out that it made the gun shoot half as far with almost no force. What's going on???

Question by General Eggs   |  last reply


Modifications to a pistol to allow blank firing? Answered

 What  modifications are needed to allow a semi-automatic pistol to fire blank ammo? The reason I ask is that on various film prop sites I have come across a photo of a gun, ( for an example see accompanying image), and the phrase,  "Note how the gun has clearly been blank converted." I can guess at the reasons but does anyone know? (Don't even bother trying to google this.. .you will get thousands of pages on how to convert a blank gun to fire real ammo.) This is from the film, Heat. Thank you.   

Question by FriendOfHumanity   |  last reply



Nerf Modifications and Paint Jobs.

Hello, I just thought I'd share the last few months of completed work with my fellow makers! I'm addicted to modifying and painting Nerf guns now because its something you put a lot of time into that is used regularly. It doesn't gather dust or become a paper weight like my previous model car hobby.  Anyway enjoy, and thanks for looking! More pictures can be provided if you're interested. JonnyBGood

Topic by JonnyBGood   |  last reply


nerf paint job and modification thread

This forum is for pictuers only you can include the range and modifications if desired the pink yellow and white disc shot is my secondary and it gets 70 feet with a stefan the blue and white bbb is my primary and gets 120 feet with a stephan 

Topic by SorryBarry 


Knex Gun: Infinity

Hey guys, sorry about the delay. I've been really busy with school, since I'm a senior, gotta keep working and getting good grades and what not. Anyways, I have the pictures for the Ible ready, just need to upload em.  Just give me a little more time. Thanks for always being there, and supporting me! -SW- P.S: There has been several modifications since the video, they will be in the Ible, and I warn you, it is not an easy build, and it requires quite a lot of pieces.

Topic by Senior Waffleman   |  last reply


Pen gun nerf mod collaboration

While searching Instructables, I have found an Instructable about the infamous Pen Shooter. I have thought of a way to convert this to a Nerf dart shooter (I think) but I have not got the materials to make it, so I don't know that it will work. I would like it if somebody who has the materials could collaborate with me on this project, and help me make it an Instructable. Materials needed: Texta Rubber band String Glue CPVC or brass pipe (barrel mod materials) If someone wants to collaborate, I will PM you back with the method. Thanks, Chaoszerom

Topic by chaoszerom   |  last reply


Nerf N-Strike CS magazine mode

To keep a long story short, here is the problem I'm trying solve:  I'm in the process of moding  a Nerf N-Strike into  a coil gun.  My "ammo" for this are steel archery tips that measure 8mm in diameter.  Since I'm overseas right now and have to order the gun online, while I wait for it to show up, I'd like some input as to how I might increase the magazine's spring strength while narrowing the inside width of the magazine to accomodate the diameter of the of new round.  In the past I've tried small pieces of foam board and plexiglass, but that has a tendancy to get messy and cause too much friction.  I'm sure once I have the gun to look at and play with some "great idea" will come to me, but until them I'm stuck imagining.  Any help would be appreciated.

Topic by TM7677   |  last reply


Overkill Modification Kit: Deviance. R5 Defiance Mod

On July 13, 2014, the unofficial yet famous K'nex war will take place in Freemont Ohio and luckily this year I coming back a veteran. With all the experience and advice I got from last years war I will be a stronger competitor this year, with more powerful and sturdy knex guns. With all the fun and preparation involved in getting ready for a knex war it made me think of all the iblers who don't get to come down to Ohio for the war, so I decided to try one of my ibler's war guns at the knex war.      I ended up building the Red Book of Westmarch's R5 Defiance, A bolt action K'nex gun specificly designed for K'nex wars, and while he admitted he hadn't tried it at an official war he had tested it rigorously so he knew it war reliable. My stock version worked really well, it hit the range that Red had showed and it was pretty reliable. As you can easily tell by my final product, I changed practically everything about the gun. Why? Why would I do that if I was happy with it? Well there's a small difference in being happy with something and being confident with something. While the R5 was very reliable, I had trigger issues and a little chambering issue.          That also being said I also have an engineering saying that goes building something is easy mindless work, making something your own, that takes skills. So I made my R5 my own and changed everything but the magazine and general body. I added: a new trigger mechanism that increased pin draw ( the stock pin draw was fine too), magazine lock ( I have a vendetta against friction in K'nex guns.. ),  Upper chambering mechanism (because it makes the chambering smoother in my opinion), and a barrel (which prevents yellow rods from tumbling end over end).    My modifications only increased the reliability and the overall functionality of the gun. I would definitely recommend building the R5 Defiance because it's a great gun and it'll definitely help you in a knex war. Like any gun though, try it out and make it your own before using it in battle! Anyway thanks for reading and if you have any questions I'll be around.     JonnyBGood            (also if your wandering why I didn't break this up into paragraphs, instructibles doesn't let me use the return key for some reason. Sorry for the huge paragraph of rambling!)

Topic by JonnyBGood   |  last reply


even more k'nex guns?

I know that there are alot of knex guns out there. like millions. but most of them are just modifications of killerk's guns. i noticed that i dont see very much rifles out there so i went to build a knex rifle.when i finished, i built a rifle that looks like a Mauser Karabiner 98k (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karabiner_98k) it is scale size (it could be a little bit smaller because i have short fingers). it shoots far, i dont know how far exactly because i lost my bullet somewhere across the road behind someones house. its single shot (as in it has a magazine but you have to pull the firing pins back, like real Mauser Karabiners.) and it has a strong stock, dose not use strange pieces like motors or wheels. and it has this true trigger that i think i invented. I will post the instructable when my camera gets fixed in a few daysDiscuss:1. can someone tell me if i invented this trigger for knex guns?2. Knex Rifles in general

Topic by Plastic Fir   |  last reply


Does Stefan (modifed nerf bullets) work with stock nerf guns? Answered

I looked at backer rods and they have aren't hollow. The regular stock nerf bullets are. The stock nerf guns have a little stick pointing out so you can put the bullet onto it, but since Stefan bullets aren't hollow they can't go onto the stick. So my question is "Can I put Stefan bullets unto un-modifed nerf guns?"

Question by Pizzapie500   |  last reply


Where to find the right spring? Answered

For my Nerf Gun Mod I need a 14kg load spring. After a VERY long time of looking I've come up empty handed. Where on earth am I going to get a spring for my longshot?

Question by General Eggs   |  last reply


K'nex guns (RBGs or Rod shooters)

This forum is for anyone who can come up with an idea or can post a gun made from k'nex that works (does something) and resembles a real gun (or one from a video game)Also, you can post ideas or pics of guns you would like to be made by me (or anyone for that matter), and I encourage anyone to post a new loading, shooting, or feeding mechanism that is new to this site- ie: my lever action mechanism, or slide-cocked rod shooter (modification of mechanism by macbeasty)Make guns n have fun

Topic by HK.RBG.armorer   |  last reply


Real Guns/Firearms: Appropriate for Instructables?

I just noticed there are very few instructables and forums relating to real firearms. I know a fair bit about firearms: safety, handling, collecting, investing, maintenance, mild modifications, repair, and use of force. I can produce Ibles related to these topics, and I have a few questions to put in Forums. However, I'm not certain this is the place for that sort of thing. I don't want to do anything to damage the Instructables community. I don't want to bring needless scrutiny upon innocent people. I need feedback as to whether or not these sort of things are appropriate for this site.

Topic by skunkbait   |  last reply


Is one allowed to post things pertinent to firearms on here?

I have several gun modifications (no, not those little knex guns on here...) that I thought some might find interesting. Well?

Question by guitarman63mm   |  last reply


KillerK Magnum Mods

This is a forum for posting all Killerk's Magnum mods. this is his gun: Well have fun and keep the language clean!

Topic by Ratchet and Clank   |  last reply


Firefly Flashlight Mod

I have figured out something useful without making the firefly ugly. First, take out all of the screws, and start mapping them by the nerf's shape. Sorry I have no pics, but I want this to not take three days. Take out the pieces that support the barrel. Draw a map if you have to, because this can get very annoying to put back. take out the barrel with the supporting orange piece and throw away the orange front piece. This may reduce slight accuracy, but you can now use sonic micro darts, and you need to to do my 3rd to next mod. Unscrew the back of the barrel. take out the piece. Unscrew the 3 screws on the back, too. Make sure to keep mapping. Unsrew the last front screws. Get small pliers or a large screwdriver and pry it open, going all around. Take out the springs and the 3-pronged pieces. Put the barrel back together. Take out the air pump and stretch the spring. Put back the gun, using your mapping. Now, for the fun part. Drill a hole through the center of the barrel, big enough for your flashlight. You are done. Have fun.

Topic by Fenderpony   |  last reply


Use of transformers/ignition coils in a coil gun.

I've seen a couple of suggestions that an ignition coil, or a decent sizes transformer set up in a similar way, can be discharged into the coil of a coil gun, it the place of the usual capacitor bank. The main advantages seem to be a much faster recharge time, no need to create 200+V, and the availability of parts. I only have 540uF worth of capacitors at 200V, which should work for a small gun, but I have several large transformers, and a crate full of ignition coils. Does anyone know of any reasons why this would not work, or any modifications needed to make this setup work? Thanks in advance for any replies.

Topic by The Skinnerz   |  last reply


Shoot .177 ~ .22 cal. pellets from a paintball gun?

I want to be able to shoot .177 or .22 caliber pellets from my Co2 powered paintball gun (single shot or semi-auto, I don't care ). Is this even possible to do without costing a small fortune?  If you have seen the clip on "You Tube" regarding the Castleman's  Air powered .30 cal machine gun you would kind of see what I'm after in a sense.  Any info. or links to the info. would be appreciated. 

Question by McGuyver_09   |  last reply


airsoft sniper rifle mods

I have been modifying my FAMAS airsoft gun so it is more suitable as a sniper rifle. I thought that maybe if there is anyone who might be doing the same or wanted to post their airsoft gun modifications here that would be great!

Topic by Robot Lover   |  last reply


Selling Super Modified Nerf Longshot (AR Removal,Locks,LEDs,Spring,Paint Job)

Hi! I'm selling this super modified Nerf Longshot. The paint job was based off of Coop772's paint job that he did. The mods I did to this is listed in the video. I did take a few pictures from SGNerf and Coop772 because I forgot to take a picture of some of the internals and I already put the gun back together. If you have any questions feel free to comment below. Thanks for viewing! Video of this (video embed code doesn't seem to work): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyH-N6wm16A  

Topic by Pizzapie500   |  last reply


Incredi-mods

Ook, so I realize there are a few groups that have to do with gun modifications. BUT, I couldn't find a FORUM for them, so I am making one. In this forum, we are to share our coolest, most successful mods of knex weapons here. If you are to describe a mod, you MUST include at least one picture, so we can all admire your handy-work.I'll go first. I recently (as in last night) built the mod of Jager's rifle from THIS IBLE and found the gun a bit faulty. Since it uses a lot of pieces, I was in no rush to dismantle it immediately, and rather, I tore its insides out and put my own in. The result is an enormous mod of a mod with a four-shot magazine for orange connectors with grays and a sleek look similar to the original mod.P.S. The picture is from a bad lighting/angle... the gun looks a lot cooler in person.

Topic by Oompa-Loompa   |  last reply


Custom Painted Nerf Guns (Looking for Offers)

Hello!  I'm JonnyBGood, and I'm looking to accumulate some offers for my custom painted Nerf guns. I don't plan on going as far as commissions, I just want to see if there's any interest in my work for the right price. As of right now I'm mainly checking the market, before fully investing in making more custom Nerf guns. When making an offer, please send me it in a PM and make sure to consider that I've spent a minimal of five hours of painting. Also consider the cost of the blaster and the time required to make modifications. In my state, the minimal wage is around 8$ so I will ignore any offer that has me literally working for free. I hope that this works out and I receive a lot of reasonable offers so I can start painting, and then I will definitely get back to everyone who has sent me an offer.  Thanks for checking out my latest endeavor, and I hope my received feedback allows this to be successful!  JonnyBGood

Topic by JonnyBGood   |  last reply


The NIC

I am a proud owner of many modded and unmodded nerf guns, and would like to expand the nerf online community to Instructables. I see we already have some members that nerf such as Top Dog, Vaunpaun, CaptainSlug, Biggunner, and many others. I would like to see much more Instructables of modifications and such. Thanks, nerfer192 p.s. if clare if you say anything I will personally get Eric to delete your butt.

Topic by nerfer192   |  last reply


Knex Concept : True rifle

This is something I made when I was trying to make a K'nex rod spin in flight. I know there are true rifles like the Tempest, which uses a oodammo, and I know someone else twisted a rod to make it spin. This thing should be able to shoot normal K'nex rods with no modifications. I just built this, but I didn't make it into an entire gun. The red rod in the pictures is the ammo. This uses a K'nex wind up motor to spin the ammo. When you stick the ammo into the motor, it is like a bullet lock. The thing in the third picture is like a ratchet. It keeps the rod from spinning. It would have to be connected to the trigger, so it lets the bullet spin just when the ram hits it. Someone else could make a gun with this idea, but please give me credit for the idea.

Topic by ~KnexBuild~   |  last reply


Full Auto K'nex Gun Idea (Seriously)

To anybody interested in creating a fully automatic k'nex gun: Take a simple method of propulsion: splodies grenades or something of the like. Not a complicated ram-rod mechanism or anything like that. Find a way to make them a bit smaller and more stable (splodies are very unstable) via some sort modification. Then find a way to stack them, one by one, in a magazine. Find a way to release one end while using the other as a launching point inside the chamber of the weapon. Once the first end is fired, the second end is pushed up and out of the right side of the gun, mimicking shell ejection on automatic weapons. After the shell is ejected, the next piece of ammunition is fired and ejected, and so on. If anybody can figure out how to create this mechanism AND find a way to control it via a trigger, they will have created the first magazine fed, shell ejecting, fully automatic knex gun. And to whoever claims that it wouldn't be considered fully automatic, think again. Loading the gun would be a painful process, yes. But it would be fully automatic, because a fully automatic weapon fires continuously while the trigger is pulled, no matter the circumstances. And with the option of removable magazines, the possibility is certainly there. If anybody can actually succeed in this idea, all I ask is that you post it so we can build it as well.

Topic by Ikedog1995 


I have a few nerf guns, anyone know any good mods?

I have a couple of nerf vulcans and a nef long shot, all of them are to be modded. if anyone has any good ideas or does this kind of thing often i would much appreciate your help. i am open to most anything concerning the modification of these nerfs.

Question by IamGOD Biotches 


Random knex challenge 7- The mother of all modification contests. (Edit- Winner)

This is the first random knex contest posted under its new host, me.  I'm taking the operation over.  Sorry I couldn't post it yesterday, but my house got broken into and under that commotion, I forgot. Anyways, the title is what it is.  You can modify ANY knex design on the internet posted (with one exception see below).  However, there are guidelines: Must Improve on original design.  The improvements can be on performance, efficiency, parts conservation, whatever.  However, adding random useless crap on a design is NOT acceptable. Must be original.  The design doesn't have to be yours but the MODS you make to it do. The more improved the design is, the best chance you have of winning. Don't limit yourself to just guns, you can mod ANY design. The one design I will NOT allow in the contest is the TR since it is so open to mods and there is a variety of options for it.  So keep that in mind.   Accepted entries:  Knex gun builder- Modded ZKAR bolt RC-1207SEV- Modded freeslinger Knexfreek- Freeslinger to tankbow transformation. Tigernod- OSNJCKMA2 mods (Can't remember the abbreviation) Edit- The winner is....Tigernod and his modded OSNJCKMA2.  Congrats!  Expect a patch soon Tigernod.

Topic by DJ Radio   |  last reply


Knex TH2BR [Mod 3]

Hey knexers! I have a modification of the TH2BR here for you to see. [Mod 3] Just some final pics of what I have of this gun. .

Topic by beanieostrich   |  last reply


can someone build me a front grip(handle?) for my left hand

I couldn't come up with something really comfortable. I want a good connection to this blasta. Help me please :> http://i.imgur.com/j3Q8beJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FfYbzAi.jpg http://i.imgur.com/is1ORfk.jpg http://i.imgur.com/It1bNwM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EJgzPeq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qGYCqT6.jpg I feel like this knex gun is almost perfect. Everything feels right. Maybe a more comfortable stock? But a front grip for sure. Please let me know of any modifications you tried or adopted.

Topic by Knarez   |  last reply


K'nex gun question: When firing a k'nex gun, have you ever experienced kick? Answered

History: A few months ago, I built and modified I_am_canadian's stryker pistol(Is that how you spell it?).After piling on the rubber bands, I experienced what was more than a slight kick.Today, I had modified my ratchet-system design for a rifle (Built 100% from scratch!{Except for the ratchet itself.})in order for it to not waste power, and upon firing, I felt it.The kick I experienced was not as great as that from the strryker pistol, but it was fairly noticable. ______________________________________________________________________________ Connections or possible explanations: -Both instances occured after a power-related modification -The communists did it! -Both were ratchet systems -COMMUNISM! -They had more rubber-bands than they were ment to hold -HIPPIES (Them, too.) -Both were very powerful As you can see, between the hippies, the communism, and the scientific explanations. There are many possible answers (A few of which are serious in nature.), and one or many could be legitimate. _______________________________________________________________________________ So the question stands: Have you ever experienced kick while firing a k'nex gun?

Question by gungecko   |  last reply


TR8-2015 Review

I received my TR from Killerk this morning. I've had a little hands on time with it so I'll write up my text review now, though I'll also be making a video review in the near future. For now, here's the unboxing and first impressions video: So just to start, I've never made a TR before. I have limited experience with turreted weapons. So what I knew about them I only got from videos and other people's reviews. I didn't doubt the TR was a great performing weapon, but I was wondering what all the hubbub was about. After finally messing around with one for the morning, I can see where the praise comes from. I also noted some things I'd still like improved, at least to personalize on my variant.   I'm going to use a grade scheme (because everyone's impressions on stars and scales are usually biased toward higher numbers). So, just to clarify, don't think of C as bad. It's average. I'll point out what's subjective. I'll nitpick a lot of little things, and I'll give credit where credit is due. Anywho, on to the review. Aesthetics: C+ My impression of the TR has always been that it's been a rather simple weapon. I'm a rather hard man to please in this category. The front is a tube barrel construction. I don't care for the looks of turrets because they're rather chunky for the amount of ammo they take up. The stock is a little skeletony. And it seemingly has weird support pieces thrown in random places. But it's not bad. It still looks like a good weapon. The stock has a nice design. It has a relatively clean cut design around the outside. Ultimately, I know most was for the sake of a strong, durable weapon, and I'll be sure to personalize it more.   Ergonomics: D+ This one I gotta be honest on. The handle just doesn't float my boat. My hands are shaped oddly so I've always made weird sorts of handles myself. While the tires are a cool concept, they help keep your grip on the weapon, and I thought they'd be comfortable, their edges tends to stick out and dig into my hands. They also bulk up handle in a way that my hand just doesn't easily fit it. Like, I know my Oodassault's handle is also rather big, but my hand still fit around it naturally with a flat back and indents around around my thumb and point finger web. But this is something I can customize in the future, so it's not the end of the world by any means. I can still use it as is without being in total pain.  The trigger is a bit different. Not uncomfortable, but not the way I like triggers. Something I'll want to change, but I don't want to compromise its strength, so I'm going to keep analyzing it. The stock is a bit compact. This is yet another preference thing, but I'd like it at a slightly longer length. The charging handle isn't too comfortable to use either. With the rear sight integrated into it, it's a bit difficult to get a good grip on, which is important when you have the bands loaded up on it.  And again, this is subjective so I'm sure I can improve it for my preferences and it'll be just fine. I otherwise appreciate what Killerk attempted here. The front grip on the other had is rather comfortable. I don't think I'll need to change that ever. Ease of Use: B Things look up from here. The ratchet mechanism wasn't immediately obvious to me, but with previous K'nexing experience, I figured it out. Still, I wouldn't trust a newbie to be able to pick it up and know how to use that part specifically without direction. So that's part of the reason it's not a higher grade, but again, nitpicking. It's otherwise incredibly useful to be able to wind the band without turning the turret itself. It lets you load ammo and then just twist the ratchet, which isn't too difficult, to make sure it loads after each shot.  When I change the charging handle to be more comfortable, I'll appreciate it much more. Having a charging handle on a weapon loaded up with a lot bands makes it a lot easier to use. The rail guides and the pin guide are all perfectly constructed to make sure it's a smooth, straight pullback.  On that note, back to the stock from an ease of use perspective, because it's a bit shorter than I'd like, I don't feel like I have proper leverage on the charging handle. It's one thing I like about pistols, being able to use both arms to pull apart the gun and the pin to make it easier to draw. For this weapon, it's recommended to shoulder the stock and push back against you, which would be a little easier for me with a longer stock. It probably won't be a problem for others. Overall, I think someone strong enough could pick it up and, with a little direction, figure it out pretty quickly. It's something I could easily teach a friend how to use and then they shouldn't have a problem with it. Reliability: A This is one of the areas where the TR shines. It's only not perfect because of a few possible things you can do to mess it up. Now, to be fair, I haven't fired it enough to have a misfire, but I doubt that'll ever be a problem. The nature of the turret itself means that you shouldn't have any problems. However, I'd worry about little things like bumping the turret in such a way it skips a round. The power transfer pins offer a point of failure for the gun if you're not careful. Removing a round requires you to manually push back in the pin to avoid accidentally firing off an empty chamber, which I can imagine might be bad. I'm also a wee bit skeptical about the trigger setup but it hasn't failed on me. I may want to make a safety mechanism for this weapon, though. Something that wouldn't allow the trigger to move out of the way of the pin at all. Construction: A-  It's pretty dang solid. I did notice (more nitpicking) that the handle connection creaks a little bit. So it's not perfectly solid, but Killerk did a pretty good job at constructing this in such a way there shouldn't be many points of failure. It held up in shipping after all. There are some odd support structures here and there, but then some areas that are either neglected, or he just didn't care about. Honestly, I have no idea what he added because he thought it was necessary, what he added because it looked cool, and what he added just because he could. So there are some things I might change for the sake of consistency and aesthetics, but it's otherwise something I'd trust be able to drop, pickup, and use just fine. I'd only worry about dropping it right on the turret.  Performance: A+ This is the one area you can say is perfect for the TR. Basically, it's designed to maximize power, and finned ammo are designed to be stable, thus increasing range and accuracy. The tube barrel minimizes the snag on the pin from hitting any gaps and gives the gun a solid mounting point for bands. The turret treats each round as a single shot. The length of the charging distance is maximized while still being practical. It's as good as you can do for a pin gun, and it's as accurate as you can make K'nex ammo with minimal modification/using entirely different materials.  Overall Thoughts as a War Weapon:  I'm not going to grade this because there's so much opinion thrown in here, it wouldn't be fair. I can see where this thing would be everyone's weapon of choice. It has an 8 round capacity, which seems limiting, but you can reload whenever you happen to find ammo, so in theory it shouldn't be a problem until you're rushed with low ammo. If fin ammo is allowed, then clearly it's the best you can do for a repeater at the moment. Without it, it's got the most effective range you'll possibly find for a pin gun, though it's just not as easy for me to prime as a pistol. It's a weapon more about picking your shots instead of dishing them out as fast as possible. I'll need to do some raw comparisons with my Oodassault pistol to see which I'd prefer after I see all the differences. For example, what if the range really does make a difference compared to the ease of recharging? I'll just have to make it to a war with both weapons sometime and see which I do better with. Overall Thoughts as a Fun Weapon: Its main novelty is the range and accuracy you get in a repeater. It's satisfying to shoot multiple rounds down range and hit your target with ease. Other than that, it's mostly featureless. It's not something I'd dink around with in the house (mostly out of fret of damaging the walls). It might impress my friends the first time they see it and how far it fires. The ratchet mechanism might also be cool to show. But after that, there isn't much wow factor. Not that you'd need much more. It shoots hard. That's all you'll need to wow someone with plastic and rubber bands. I'm personally the kind of guy that likes having things like realistic charging handles, removable magazines, adjustable stocks, etc. just for novelty's sake, but that's just me. This is a no-nonsense weapon built for performance, and in that regard it does very well. I'll keep mine around and make small modifications to it. I won't deconstruct it for pieces to make other weapons. It'll be nice to have a raw performance weapon around all the time so I can focus on new concepts without think "I wish I had something that fired well, I'm going to rebuild my Oodassault." So it's fun enough to be worth keeping.  Overall, I'd highly recommend making it at least once just to experience it, see what it's all about. If you enjoy performance, taking highly accurate and ranged shots at targets, you'll appreciate it. It's also pretty modular in that if you keep its base construction intact, you can personalize it reasonably well. Better weapons can be built just for the sake of having fun, so it's not something everyone might want to keep permanently, but if you have the pieces, I think a lot of people will like to keep it around, as many already have.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


Mod of Katarukito's Knex slingshot prototype

This is a modification of the sling shot prototype made by Katarukito's (I hope i spelt that right) knex prototype sling shot knex gun. It can pierce cardboard at fifteen feet away with one band and twenty to thirty feet away with two rubberbands (UNSHARPENED BULLET) I modified the barrel with a new barrel, that may look ugly but if you want i can take off the blue and red connectors that make the humps/ scales of what i call... Dragon Head Knex Gun DHKG well i didn't intend on putting those there but it turned out as a dragon and well, i went with it... the barrel doesn't bend and when or if i do post it, all credits go to Katarukito! Enjoy! Sorry for the blurry pictures it was night time and i had to pee like a race horse... Pic 1: The bullet - A red rod or tan rod with tan clip Pic 2: Front view (DRAGON HEAD) - Front of the gun where rubberbands go Pic 3: Another front view (Barrel) - Front of the gun better picture Pic 4: A view of the back (Part of Kataturi's knex gun prototype moded) - View of barrel and handle Pic 5: Better picture of back (Katarukito's prototype still able to be seen, just modified) Pic 6: Full gun - (the full DHKG) - Aprox. Two to two and half feet long ~ Pic 7: A view of the gun loaded - Gun is loaded Pic 8: A view of the gun loaded from the front Pic 9: Back of the gun with sights

Topic by mrbox   |  last reply


NEW GRENADE LAUNCHER: H.S.S.P. V3 (Heavy Support Splodie Pistol)

Hello everyone, I yesterday builded this modification of the HSSR, the advantages: - smaller - easier to load and cock - more reliable (less barrel, so less drag) - easier to build disadvantages: - looks less cool (my opinion:P) - less accuracy So I think this gun is better than the rifle version, but also check it (It's an instructable). grtz Infinnion, EXTRA: you can add some grey connectors to the side of the gun to hold splodies. WARNING: I'm not responsible for any damage to urself, your house, your cat. So plz dont shoot at animals or people (or expensive windows:P:P:P).

Topic by Infinnion   |  last reply


Convert airgun/Paintball gun to be fired by a computer (12v solenoid valve)

Hi!I have a project this summer where I need to convert a paintball marker and a co2 Airpistol to be fired by the use of a solenoid valve powered by 12v.The project goal is high-speed photography, more or less photographing object being hit by a projectile.What i need is a way to fire these guns precisely by the use of my computer and software, and since I already have plenty of 12 solenoid valves that work with this system I thought my easiest way is to adapt these valve to trigger the guns one way or another.I just purchased a Valken V-TAC SW-1http://www.valken.com/Marker-V-TAC-BLACKHAWK which I plan to use as base (for parts) My reason for getting this particular one was that it was on sale for 50% and seems to be fairly popular as it's based on the Tippmann 98 design.I attached an image of the valve I used with my controller and software (Cognisys Stop shot) now I can probably use any 12v solenoid valve (with the same spec ?) as the one I use now so it doesn't need to be these exact valves. As long as they can be operated by turning on-off power with the same powersource i use to control my current solenoid valves.From my understanding, most airguns use a pin valve, which is hit by a trigger mechanism that is then rearmed by the blowback.What would be the best way to modify an airgun for my needs? Replace the pin valve with a suitable solenoid i can control instead? Or go for a design that uses maybe use a piston and 2-way valve to hit that pin?The gun does not need to be mobile or ergonomic, it will be placed in a rig regardless, however keeping the barrel and keep the Picatinny is preferred to be able to mount marking aids etc. and mount the gun to a tripod.Any tips or suggestions are highly appreciated!Thank you!

Topic by PaulL320   |  last reply


Small stripped screw in Nerf maverick?

I've recently bought a Nerf maverick with the intention of modding it. There's just one problem, one of the screws is stripped. It's the screw in the front of the gun on the top. It's in a little hole and I don't really want to try to drill it out . Any suggestions? UPDATE: I have no idea how to delete questions, but I just drilled it out.

Question by General Eggs   |  last reply


What is the best way to hold a shotgun and reduce recoil?

Ok, so I've been shooting varsity trap for my high school for a few years now and I can shoot 200 rounds (8 games) in a row without feeling a thing in my shoulder. I've been using a Benelli SBE with stock recoil pads and no modifications. Whenever my dad shoots with me his shoulder gets sore after a few shots. From what i can tell we hold the gun in similar ways, do any of you have any tips?

Question by zilcho 


Nerf Mods

There are so many different nerf mods for ALL nerf guns, But the question is "Which one brings enough power to make a nerf gun shoot far and fast with better accuracy?" Answer is all them, if you put all the mods for one gun into one gun you are going to get a great outcome unless you do the mod bad, take a Recon CS-6 for instance it is a low power nerf rifle not good for wars at all shoots around 20 feet but, mine has been modified and i am currently looking for different modifications for it but it shoots more than 80 feet  measured, exact results are 80 on most shots 1/10 shots shoots around 50 and that is because it was a BAD DART, here is what i did, (P.s: this will be a instructable for the mods in this....) 1 Removed AR 2 stretched out spring by plunger ( not recomended get a new spring if  you can ) 3 put a spring behind plunger to create more friction which pushes the barrel  forward more and causes a stronger air push. 4 made the air tube bigger by the AR with a drill Thats all i did it was easier than most mods i have done ( iremember the maverick i had no idea how to get into the roatating barrel) but it led to the best outcome, P.s doing the same thing makes the Raider CS-35 alot more stronger it will more than likely shoot 90+ I will be getting a longstrike soon so i will show you guys the AR Removal and other mods i know which can be applied to the gun and create another great Nerf Sniper Rifle, Later guys.

Topic by AirsoftTeam 


The K'nex Innovations Challenge (KIC) - Round 1 (UPDATES, PLEASE READ)

Seeing as a lot of interest in the challenge has been expressed, the judges and I have decided to host this round now. This round's chosen topic is: Weapons Any weapons are permitted for posting, so long as:  -They are functional - all guns must fire.  -They are your own design - this means that no modifications of other guns will be accepted.  -They are posted between the deadline times. Any posted outside these times will not be accepted. It is also not acceptable to re-post.  -They are posted on the site in the form of an Instructable, Slideshow, or Video. The more detailed your submission is, the more likely we are to understand your submission. Please use correct english and annotate where appropriate - we are judging on many criteria!  -They only use K'nex pieces, rubber bands (or other means of elastic potential energy storage) string and tape. Cut pieces are permitted, but do take into account that more cut pieces won't get you better marks. We are trying to maximise the potential of K'nex, not mutilate our pieces! Please post your entries at any time from: 12:00 Midday GMT September 1st and no later than: 12:00 Midday GMT October 1st.   (Central American Time = 6:00 AM) Entries will not be accepted if they are posted beyond the deadline, no exceptions. To submit your entry, post an Instructable, Slideshow or Video of your weapon, titled "KIC Entry: - " You must post a link to me on this forum topic, or via Private Message. Judging will commence immediately following the final deadline. The top 20 highest-scoring entries will qualify for round 2. Please use this topic for general discussion and submission - no spam please, it makes judging and entry accepting much harder. You have one month. Good luck! List of Entries: Beanieostrich Seleziona Masterdude KnexFreak360 rec0n EDIT: Thanks to a suggestion from TheDunkis and Dj Radio, I am allowing teams to work on a single project in order to share ideas and optimise the weapon.

Topic by The Jamalam   |  last reply


Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

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