Search for Heat in Topics

So I want to make a necklace with a pendant that will always be warm. I dont know how to go about this so if anyone can help thatd be great. I was thinking possibly chemicals but i dont know if thats safe nor do i know anything about chemicals. Id prefer something that once i finish it ill never have to change or switch anything out but whatever works.

Hi there, is it possible to derivate the heat of the heating pipe of an heater to make a water circle (with a pump) to create ones own heater? Because i feel the heating pipe is extremely hot and it's heat for free, so why not using it? The idea is to build something like a water cooling system for the PC but just without the cooling. Can i wrap a cooper pipe around the heating pipe and let water circle with a pump, so the hot water  passes through the "new heater". I dont know what to use as heating object but there will be a way. Any ideas? Is it even possible? Thank you and sorry for my English :D

Has anyone made a Heat pad before?  I want to build one for an out door cat house.  Maybe I can just use a battery operated light bulb at a high Watt.

So my new  major has me in a machine shop that is at my disposal. I have made a few shift knobs but with living in the Northeast it can get cold in the winter months.   I want to heat the knobs, which means finding something that is... - Small enough to fit inside a roughly 1" dia cylinder, depth minimal. - Quickly heat the knob - But not over heat it - Run on a 12v standard supply - Minimal cost I have considered trying to find a "Heating Element" but am unable to find such in a size I need and within a price I want. Maybe a soldering Iron element? I tried "Peltier" but they all are over-sized and debate the conflicting effects of hot and cold. However if figured out I could flip it for summer. I debated running a resistor/other electronic component with just enough power to cause it to heat up, but am worried about it breaking. I wanted to do a high power light bulb, but don't see that working as well as I plan. So I am kinda at a loss...if you have a specific item you can link me to let me see it, or just let me know of an item I can use.

Hi guys, gals and robots of course I am having trouble finding out what type of sealer and the required wattage needed to weld high quality annexe matting which is about 3mm thick x 2 - 6mm all up. It is 98% nylon. I need something with about 600mm long jaws and variable heat and probably 6mm weld width? I would like to make my own as well, quite handy with electrics and mechanical stuff, live in Australia with 240v Kind Regards Build Stuff

Is it safe to heat ceramic bowls and cups and stuff on a hotplate or cooktop? Like plain white ceramic stuff. BTW: The piece in question is almost certainly stoneware, not porcelain or earthenware.

High frequency induction heating is basically a very efficient way to heat ferrous metals. Induction heating uses an powerful magnetic field to induce currents within the surface of the metal being heated. This means that the coil will not get hot unless the material being heated transfers heat to it. Induction heating is very efficient because no heat is wasted, no heat is wasted because the coil does not produce heat, the heat comes from the workpiece being heated only.

Changed fuse and heating element and still no heat

Hi, does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap efficient Heating System I can build myself for a Greenhouse?

50 inch of nichrome and 48 inch of heat shrink laced into a parade glove how much power do I need to give so it won't go over 110 temp

Has anyone attempted building a homemade heat pump?  Maybe one used as a hot water heater only? What are the challenges that prevent a DIYer from building one from scratch?

Can you use a charcoal BBQ grill as an emergency heater for inside of a home if you were using wood as the fuel?How and what would be the safest way to do so?

I need a heat sensing circuit that detects, if my server blows out warm air to switch on forced ventilation. This module should work as a stand-alone module without any connection to the server.

I need a way to heat up the air around the fan, so it will blow hot air twords me. i was going to try a thermoelectric cooler. but i cant find one, so is there any other way? And it has to be school safe, no fire involved

Hi, I hope this is the correct place to ask some rocket minded guys how we can solve our fridged home problem. Our 30yr old cottage built with 2 layer perimeter brick and covered with heavy clay tiled roof becomes a freezer in winter. With restricted use of power as a result of our Govt's poor planning it gets cut at anytime and gas heaters not being safe, is there a simple way to get natural heat other than installing a fireplace at great cost that could heat all rooms?  B'lieve me guys it's ccold here even with a winter's sun outside, so solar panels or similar would need to absorb heat to distribute it all round and be very costly -  Sunny South Africa not so warm.  Muscpro

Hi everybody First of all I want to excuse myself if my english is not perfect. I have a project in mind for a while. I work on construction in Canada and using caulking everyday it get hard to use it during winter if we don't have access to put them inside. So I wanted to build a little box with an heating system that could work on a jobsite generator. I'm thinking about a plywood box nothing fancy as long it work. I though about place 10 ABS/PVC tube that fit perfectly the caulking tube with alots of hole in it so the heat can pass throught it. So the caulking tube can be reached right from the top of the box and due to the hole it won't overheat. So that's the idea so far. What heating system should I use for this system(I don't want to spend alot on money). Maybe I'm thinking about  1 or 2 computer fan to make the heat uniform. I'm thinking about a space where I can put my spare glove to get them dry do you have an idea for that ? And finaly I'm open to any suggestion that can get the box even better ! :) Thanks you

I have been thinking for some years now that I would like to have finer control over my central heating. The problem Now we are older we feel the cold more so in winter the heating is on all the time. This means that we have to keep altering the thermostat on each radiator at different times of the day or just leave them and so waste energy. One method means wasting energy but the other means rooms will be colder than we want initially.   The system and what i have We have a combination boiler which has a digital timer and also on the panel are temperature controls for hot water and radiator temperature. Each radiator has a thermostatic valve so each room can have it's temperature set independently. I have a computer which runs 24/7 and also a bit whacker which I can control via python code and electronics has been a hobby for over 50 years My idea I would like to have some system which would allow me to adjust each room temperature via computer control.   Possible solutions Solution 1 Fit a stepper motor to each thermostatic valve to adjust it at different times of the day/night. This would allow precise control but would be quite expensive to set up. Solution 2 Fit a small structure round each valve with a filament bulb or resistance wire in the bottom so that when power is applied to it then the temperature around the valve will rise and so the valve will close or, at least partially close. I think this would be much cheaper to implement but would have the small on-going cost of using power to the bulbs whenever the room temperature needs to be cooler that it would normally be. My initial plan Build a small structure around one of the valves with a low voltage bulb in it. It would have vents at top and bottom and so air would circulate. I have a portable digital thermometer so i could gather information and try different bulbs to see how much power would be needed and therefore what the on-going cost would be. Also try various shapes of structure to see what the effect would be.   So guys what do you think?

I know for a fact that in the EU we can now have energy effient homes that utilise the heat from common sources like water heater, solar or just what is under the roof to generate electricity or heat other things.Started to wonder if ever someone tried something in that region on an affordable hobby level.Down here properly insulated homes are rare as a pearl in a supermarket oyster.So my main interest would in utilising the excess heat under the roof during the summer times.This season I measured and average of around 60°C during the day.On those day over the 35°C mark it went up close to 75°C in some areas.I guesstimate that if the draft areas are sealed off a bit a fan system should able to suck air at about 50°C out for about 6 to10 hours per day during the summer.If I would add a small heat exchange made from a solor hot water panel and some piping:Would hat combine heat output be enough to power an ammonia fridge or even freezer?What options are there that you guys created to generate some electricity from other heat sources?Thinking about the exhaust heat from the hot water system or heater.One thing I am planning on is a small solar heater for my big fish tank.Currently not anywhere near a window but would like some Arduino to control a water pump by temperature comparison to provide warm water during the winter months for free.Beats two 400W heaters if you ask me LOLThe potential for some easy to create heat exchange system to generate a bit of electrictiy or power heat exchange system is huge.Australia is full of badly insulated homes and the US is not far behind.And not matter how good they are all those homes still heat the roof cavities like hell.

I've seen metal once that was reactive to heat, it changed color when heat was applied and changed back afterwards (funny note it was used in a urinal) I'm wondering if a liquid form of this exists ? 

Greetings all, I live in a solar powered house which is heated by a single log burning stove which is situated in the main living area. Is it possible for me to transfer heat to the colder rooms by simply putting ducting between the top sections of the adjoining walls (seeing that hot air travels to cold areas - in theory!) or will I have to use a fan? I am trying to use as little power as possible or ideally non at all. Has anyone got any experience of this or know of any suitable solutions? Many thanks in advance.

While harvesting parts from a tiny refrigerator, I found something that I don't understand. There was a heat sink about 6 inches square on the back with a 12v fan attached. Underneath this arrangement was a smaller heat sink about 3 inches square and sandwiched between the two was an aluminum block, also 3 inches square and about 1/2 inch thick. Between the block and the large unit is what appears to be a ceramic tile about 2 inches square, seperated from the larger sink with a thin layer of white foam. This tile is glued very securely to the back of the larger heat sink. What puzzles me are the two wires running from a PCB to the ceramic tile. They disappear into the foam but I can't tell what they connect to. A heat sensor that is attached to the large sink, perhaps? There was a twist knob inside the unit that allowed you to adjust temperature from Min to Max. I don't want to pry off the tile just yet in case this might be something useful in its current condition. This refrigerator is probably more of an ice chest than anything, else. There are no coils on the back and no compressor. The only motor is what drove the fan. There is a drip pan on the back and what looks like a plastic hose connection but I don't know if this tube let water in or out. The whole refrigerator is only about 2 feet cubed. It was powered by a standard grounded AC cord. How did this thing cool? And what do those mysterious wires under the ceramic tile serve?

It is very possible and it is in use today by using Thermal Cooling and Heating from the earth. Performed by using a 6" well at least 100' deep, with thermal tubing inserted into the well carrying the liquid to be cooled/heated. Process is done by a circulating pump in the interior unit - through the coil - sending back through the well system and returning. It starts out from the main unit circ pump.......through the coils.......out to the "down tube" into the 6" well pipe, a sharp 180* turn back up the system returning to the circ pump. Such a system is used by many facilities to Air Condition or heat rooms of about 15' x 15' or so. I have even seen a system that utilized creek water as the "cooler" of the tubing on a circ pump system. That one really was cool, about 52 degrees. Have you heard of these systems or seen something like it or close?

Hi, I have a light and am bothered by the glare below the shade. I have cut a piece of HDPE from a plastic milk bottle and have slipped the section below the bottom of the bulb (60 Watt  - 75 Watt bulbs) ca. 1 inch below, and the bottom of the  lamp shade.. There are gaps between the plastic and shade to allow heat dispersal. I have noticed that the HDPE gets quite warm, but looks and feels alright. I am concerned about any possible toxic emissions, ethylene gas (no smell) etc. Can anyone advise regarding safety? Thanks

It's rather warm around here. And by "rather warm," I mean it's 105 in the shade, and it's 89 in the house with the swamp at full blast. Does anyone have an idea for powering a cooler with pure heat? Perhaps similar to those lightbulb-looking devices that have an inner bit that spins around when placed in direct sunlight, except that is running a little generator that is then running a computer fan, like the ice box air conditioner spotted on this site. The main thing is I'd like the device to actually be powered by heat. Just for the heck of it. Even if it's just heat mechanically powering something to power a fan that I could have just plugged into the wall. So no solar cells making electricity. I can make parabolic reflectors easily if needed, so don't be afraid to use them. What's the best way you can think of to cool off using heat? "Best" can include inefficient but really awesome, like a fresnel lens pointed at a boiler that is providing steam to run a gigantic fan. I'll go get my goggles, ray gun, and keys to the airship.

I need help with this project!!!

Hello,I have a project on induction heating (cooktops) and I am struggling to find a formula that combines the power consumption, the temperature difference of the heated material and the time. Anyone please?

Ok, so I need a small heating element to reach between 200-365 F that can be powered by small batteries. Got any ideas?

Changing the tile in my bathroom and need to find a good brand for the heating system...i installed one 5 years ago but it doesn't do the job any more?

I just turned on the heat before going into my room to go to bed. My roommate and I are in about one fourth of the whole house (and will be for about six hours), yet every room is being heated. This seems like a huge efficiency problem. Are there commercial systems out there that can heat selective rooms? If not, are there ways of making such a system? Can I just tape cardboard over the vents?

Hi. I need 3 heated rollers and a heated table for some confectionery making equipment I am designing. Both must be stainless steel and must have fairly precise temperature control at around 60 degrees Celsius. The table is 30 X 30 cm and the rollers are about 3 X 30 cm. Does anyone have any ideas of how could do this. Thanks in advance.

After i pound a peice of metal into shape at a bright cherry to full orange color how exactly do i quench my steel and temper it? Right now when i quench my steel with a straight plunge into room temp water it doesnt become brittle??? I use old fence post material as a base steel. Can any1 give me a more accurate instruction. Thank you! P.S. I do clean off the galvanization before heating

Hello all, I have a slight problem, while designing my workshop for the winter months, I happened across a monumental problem... how am I going to heat it? As any Canadian reading this will know, our winters are not for the faint of heart (-50 anyone?), the structure I designed has a metal frame, HardiBacker lined inside and out as walls, screwed into the metal poles, fireproof spray foam insulation in between the cement board walls, it has been placed on a gravel surface, and is held to the ground by rebar that is nailed into the ground a few feet, and currently no ventilation. I know it has flaws left right and center, but I'm working with what i have right now, and I've got very little to work with. The structure is quite small 10' x 8' at 640sq. feet. Winter is on its way and I need ideas for heating. I've thought about wood heating but I'll need all the space I can get on the inside. propane heaters are quite expensive, and electric heaters.... well its out in the middle of a field basically. Im looking for something that can heat it up fairly quickly, and is safe, I made it fireproof so i guess a tiger torch isn't out of the question.....  Any suggestions are welcome! Cheers!

Hi everyone,: I thought of something I could make for an Instructable. To keep the idea until I publish, I'll exclude the actual idea. I need a material for this project that will retain heat from a microwave oven for ≥20 to ≥30 minutes, Ideally Id like to keep the Temp around 180 degrees Fahrenheit. What can I use for this? We all know metal cant go in the microwave. Ideas??Thanks,Jari

I have two electric heating elements I would like to sell. they are good enough for melting metal and fireing pottery, they will also come with the control eletronics too. you can make gingerys "little Bertha" if you want. I pulled them out of a huge eletric furnes for heating a building, they are good but you would need to figure out the controls. they are quite long. there are two coils per stack, so you would get 4 coils. the first picture is with a 12 ruler to show the length ( it reads 10.5 inches)all I want is $30 and $25 for shipping..... the cost is hard to beat!just send me a comment if you want them!

Like most UK houses my thermostat is in the coldest part of the house - The entrance hall. Although I have recently fitted thermostatic valves fitted to all radiators I can't help but feel the heating would be more effective if I simply controlled the temperature in the room we spend most time in during the evening- The lounge. I guess this would mean the rest of the house would be cooler than at present but that isn't really a problems for us. Is there any reason, anyone knows, not to do this? Has anyone gone down the smart thermostat route? https://nest.com/uk/thermostat/life-with-nest-thermostat/ New high efficiency condensing boiler Thermostatic radiator valves through the house High level of insulation to walls and roof. Double glazing all round in PVC frames.

I make balls of aluminium rings from chainmail technics and in a test phase i filled those balls with kevlar, which is being used by the jugglers round here. So, aim was to make burning juggling balls from chainmail. I used aluminium cos it conducts heat very well, so that ppl hardly would get burned from juggling with these balls. Problem is, that the aluminium became rough and prim and the rings started to split shortly after the ball was being set on fire. I dunno bout forging, but is there a way that i can keep the aluminium rings away from this effect (tempering?)? Is there a way to light up such balls without damaging the rings?

The winter is on it way. I'm having a hamster, a winter white, but the last winter his caught cold and it cost very much for him to cure him. I don't want my hamster to be sicked any more, so I made a heating pad for him. I used this instructable  https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-heated-clothing/ and I found it is very well. I use a two - meter 26 - gauge wire, and it only result in a 0.15 ohm resistance. With an 1.5 v voltage, It work well and i need a 10a fuse to protect this circuits:) But last week it overheated and my hamster was burned, quite bad. I'm wondering if there is a solution to this. Would you mind giving me a circuit in which: - there is a thermistor to sense the temperature. - If the temperature is to high (30 celcius degrees ), it gives a relay some voltage and the relay breaks the heater circuits. - And it component should be popular, cause I'm a kid and don't have many time go round n' round to find them. Me and my hamster will very appreciate your kindness. Thanks all.

I have been experimenting with making a hot wire foam cutter. This needs to be at least 600 mm wide. I have to hand a PSU capable of providing 14 volts at 2 amps (or slightly below) This is 28 watts. Now the question i would like to calculate the heat the Nichrome wire will reach at any given wattage but have no idea if I can do this. I have several wires that work to different levels, resistance of 30R, 4 R, 137R at the length I am using. Any one any  ideas how to calculate the temp or are there too many variables? So far I have worked empirically and arrived at the conclusion I need either around 18 volts at about 3 amps or I need a wire with a resistance of around 7R to suite the power i have available. I do know that the 20+ watts I am generating is just heating the wire to the melting point of the polystyrene foam. The melting point of the foam is apparently around 220 to 240 deg C (internet) At present it isn't cutting fast enough for my project. which required producing 5 mm thick sheets of foam with a reasonable consistency. i am cutting them from a 50 mm thick 1000mm x 500 mm block.

If you haven't heard yet, The Crucible's annual summer homage to fire is moving indoors this year, transforming their industrial arts studios into a searing jazz-age underground speakeasy where fantasy and fire converge with sultry music and machinery.  Some of the best talent in the Bay Area will perform amidst artisans plying their fiery trades, and guests will be invited to explore an industrial speakeasy alight with furnaces, forges and flames.  Time to get started on getting all dolled up for the 1920's -- think flapper dresses, finger waves, tommy guns and bootlegged fire.  More info and tix at: www.thecrucible.org

I'm having a bit of trouble with an inductor implemented as part of a boost converter. The circuit works fine except for the inductor gets very hot within a few seconds after turning on. There are also noticeable high pitched noises coming from it associated with varying current loads. I'm not really sure what the issues are as the circuit is within the maximum DC current rating (circuit draws around 120mA, inductor is rated for 250mA) and resonant frequency is also quite low (around 1.5kHz). Datasheet for the inductor I used can be found here. Some help would be appreciated in determining what the problem is and in locating a suitable replacement inductor. Thanks.

Im looking to start a water garden, i dont have much room in my back yard so i have decided on a 8 foot long trench thats about 6 inches wide with a pump to keep the water flowing. the only problem i am having is the growing season here isnt long enough to grow some of the plants that i would like to grow, i was thinking an underwater heater would be a good solution to keep the temperature above freezing and some what extend the growing season. Any thoughts on a good heater set up i could use that would keep the entire trench an even temperature without having to have a seperate heater every few feet?

I am trying to make a heater out of nichrome wire. i have got a heating element (100 W) made specifically for 9V . but when i connected it to the battery, after few seconds of heating the element my battery heated up and i had to remove the connections. what am i doing wrong P.S. the heating element is connected to a stainless steel glass for heating 250-300 ml water to about 100 degree celcius. Please help

Just curious, I find that I use a lot of heat shrink when wiring. Its just so handy, I used to get through a lot of electric tape but heat shrink it easy & simple.

Does flat black or high gloss black absorb more heat from the sun?

I want to maintain a temperature of water feed into an equipment to be  no less than 0 C in winter and no more than 20 C in summer case using a heat pipe technology. The surrounding temp is about -15 C in Winter and 40 C in summer. How is it possible? Please advice !

I'm wanting to start a project involving the use of an old coffee maker heating element. I don't know what type of safe enclosure to put it in to keep it separate from the wood fixture it will be attached to. Any ideas?