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Adjustable Bridge

I have an Epiphone acoustic guitar that I really like, my girlfriend gifted it to me after her uncle gifted it to her (she doesn't play, fingers are too small). It's the FT-130. It basically has two large screws, one on either side of the bridge, If anyone is familiar with this style of adjustable bridge can you please either tell me how to use it or send me a link to a site that will? the action is pretty low on the high strings and I'm getting a lot of buzzing (more than I should). Thanks for any help you can give!

Topic by HAL 9000    |  last reply

high current adjustable power supply? Answered

I want to run my ps2 in car, Any circuit to drop 12v to 8.5V at 6amps the lm317 circuit is not powerful enough

Question by ARJOON    |  last reply

High Pressure Shutoff? Answered

How do you make a high pressure compressor stop at 4500 psi without spending tons of money? Hopefully adjustable between 3000 and 4500 psi.

Question by    |  last reply

Husqvarna chainsaw carburetor adjustment tool

I just worked on a Husqvarna 142 chainsaw for a friend. Yes, there are openings in the side of the machine so the Low and High carburetor screws can be adjusted, but a special tool is required, or parts need to be removed from the saw so the screw shanks can be grasped with a pair of needle nose pliers. A special tool is svailable for about $6 US. It fits over the longitudinal ridges on the upper part of the screw shank. I discovered the right size of semi-rigid plastic tubing makes an effective adjustment tool. Just cut a length three or four inches long. Push one end onto the desired screw shank and turn to adjust. The tubing is rigid enough that it does not twist, but turns the screw needing adjustment.

Topic by Phil B    |  last reply

Low Voltage High Current power supply

I am going to start off by saying I have no electrical backround, I can solder and am very mechanically inclined. I am wanting to use these as a laser power supply. I have a 24v 50a, a 48v 25a , and am getting a 5v 175a power supplies. I would like to do the voltages and amps adjustable with a potentiometer to go from 0- to their rated output. I see voltage regulators all over but they arent made for high current and usually dont make the current adjustable. How could I do this? Most laser diodes these would be used for are 2.2-3.5 volts.

Question by wby300    |  last reply

Snubber network? Answered

Although my flyback transformer driver appears to work very well up to 18V operation, the arc length is not satisfactory. I increased the voltage to 25V which allows 2 to 3 inch stable / hot arcs. However my 250V 18A rated MOSFETs appear to fail periodically esp. When adjusting the potentiometers (for adjustments to drive frequency and duty cycle) I Tried sticking a 1N4007 reverse biased diode across but I don't think it changed anything. I still see >300v positive voltage transients. I also tried using a neon lamp without a ballast resistor, but it did not appear to change the waveform, and glows way too brightly. I tried using 3 (really old but giant) 30V zener diodes in series but they latched up, failed, and went up in smoke lol! So clearly these HV transients have a lot of "oomph" behind them. D:  I am reading an article on maxim electronics page about snubbers and I'll experament with some of the circuits presented there but I can't really calculate values needed for the components because I have not characterized my transformer with custom windings and a loose ferrite core. Those things will be subject to change anyways since I do not plan on supplying a specific flyback transformer with this kit. So I want something that is more universally going to work. This high voltage is just  PITA to deal with. How can I reduce it to 200v without hurting performance?

Question by -max-    |  last reply

High power LED brand recommendations?

I have an idea for an Arduino-controlled LED floor lamp and am interested in subjective information about the different brands of high power LEDs--pros and cons, the color and quality of the light, availability of heatsinks, mounting brackets, drivers, durability, price and so on.  Sparkfun sells Luxeon so it's tempting to just go with that, but I don't want to just go with that and find out something else was better.  I don't have a definite design yet just in the daydream stages, I want to be able to dim and brighten, turn individual LEDs on and off, be able to adjust the quality of light from warm to cool, I'm thinking white as a basis plus some RGB LEDs or other color leds to tweak the color, but the white light will do the heavy lifting, probably with some opaque white plastic or glass to mix and diffuse the light from all of the LEDs.  I found a few articles, but they're a few years old, or not exactly relevant (e.g. comparison of flashlights using these LEDs).

Topic by cdslashetc    |  last reply

Looking for high voltage transformer(s)

Hi! I am looking for anyone who would be willing to give me any neon sign transformers (that are not being used or are unwanted) for free. I have looked online and everyone that I have found has been way too expensive. It doesn't really matter the type, voltage, current, etc. of the transformer, I am just looking for one suitable for making a tesla coil of any size (I can adjust the design and size of the tesla coil to work well with the transformer). I would be willing to pay for shipping as long as you live in the US for I do not have very much money. Also, if you are not willing to give me or do not have a neon sign transformer, I am also looking for oil burner ignition transformers and pretty mucj any high voltage transformers that can be used for high voltage experiments/projects. If you are interested in giving me a transformer for free and are willing to pay for postage, please email me at the following email: Otherwise, please leave a reply to this post. Whether you are willing to give me any of the transformers I asked for or not, thank you for taking the time to take a look at this post.

Topic by BeekerButts    |  last reply

ideas for a dog carrier, adjustable height or telescoping

I want some ideas that you may have for a carrier. background: I want to bring my Dog on an airplane but he can't ride in cargo because there is a summer ban on dogs during hot months. I must fly before the end of the ban. The airline will allow a dog in the cabin in a soft carrier, if the dog and carrier are less than 10kg. My dog is 7kg so the carrier can be up to 3kg. It must be 27cm high 40cm wide and 55 cm long or smaller problems: the foot print is fine for my dogs they could lay down comfortably, but the height is small. I want to make a telescoping carrier so it can fit under the seat on the plane, but can open up for comfort in the airport and when moving. Any ideas are welcome and I'll post it as my first instructable once I make it thanks

Question by redorchestra    |  last reply

Regulator Help

I am currently building an LED panel, and need some help setting up the regulators. I am using LM1084-ADJ regulators. What I was wondering is if anyone can tell me how to regulate the current, as in the math I need to calculate what resistance value I have to put between the adjustable, and Vout pins. The guy I was using simply stopped replying.

Topic by MaXoR  

how do i make high rise jeans ultra low rise?

Taking down the waist a few inches how would i do that? full instructions please :}

Question by radamanda    |  last reply

How do I build a catapult with HIGH ACCURACY target hit?

I want to build a catapult that will hit exactly 3 meters away in pinpoint ..!! And later adjusted so as to hit 4 and 5 meter away too..?

Question by lala114    |  last reply

How might I make a loft bed where the bed height is adjustable?

I want to make a loft type bed for my daughter, with a desk / dressing table underneath. However, she is still quite young, so I dont want the loft bed too high at night. I want to be able to move the bed platform up and down to a high 'out of the way' position for use in the day and a low position for sleeping (sort of  'just above the desk top position') But I obvioulsy need to be able to move the bed up and down on a daily basis, so I need something to achieve this. I am looking at what mechanisms people might think suitable - tracks with linear actuator or gas struts perhaps? with obviously some sort of locking device. Any ideas guys?

Question by ChemicalJasper    |  last reply

high capacity joule thief/dc-dc converter

I'm trying to make a dc-dc converter with the following characteristics: Output = 5V regulated at up to 30mA = 150mW Input 1V (or lower) from a slightly flat AAA. Assuming a pessimistic circuit efficiency of 50%, then the input current would need to be 150mW / 0.5 / 1v =  300mA which I think a AAA is capable of supplying. I'm using a variation of "led torch circuit 2" from, but I've replaced with the 1n4148 with a schottky diode and replaced the 2 LEDs and 29R resistor with a 5k6 and 1k resistor respectively; this should limit the output of the circuit to just under 5v. I have a 150R resistor to provide a 30mA load to the circuit. When the input is 2.4V, the output is 4.62V which is close enough to 5v for me.  But if I decrease the input voltage to 1.14V, then the output voltage falls to 2.7V which is not enough. I have tried half a dozen hand wound transformers with various turns ratios, wire thicknesses and shapes (slug and toroid) but am unable to achieve 5v out (at 30mA) from 1v in. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to adjust, or perhaps a better circuit?

Topic by GrotBox    |  last reply

Cheap and portable >12V >10A PSU for small tesla coil? any good topload sugestions?

I am currently planning a small tesla coil (15 inches high, hopefully 5-12 inch sparks) I would like to make the unit small (desktop size). I decided to build the coil around a ZVS-driven flyback transformer rather than a standard NST or Oil burner transformer due to several advantages the ZVS circuit can offer: battery operation, smaller size, simpler math, no requirement to "match" the capacitance with the transformer, and since I have almost all the parts necessary to build another ZVS driver, why not!? The ZVS driver drive a DC flyback at approximately 15KV, which will then charge a homemade capacitor (I will not invest in a true MMC because it will put stress on the capacitors and connections, not mentioning the price of better quality film capacitors.) I have determined the dielectric breakdown of a few household items (plastic wrap, lids, lunch bags, etc. I assume they are low-density polyethylene) with my ZVS singing arc assumed to be at 8-10KV, and figured one layer of 5x7 inch compressed between 8 layers of plastic wrap gives an approximate capacitance of 0.7nF (sitting flat on a table with a few books to compress the plates closer together) to 1.44nF (after being rolled up very tightly. However, the breakdown voltage of this may be too low. I have yet to test this with my singing arc project)  The Capacitor will be several layers of plastic wrap sandwiched between layers of aluminum foil, which will be cut 3/4 inch shorter on all 4 sides, and after approximately 8-15 layers have been added, the capacitor will be sandwiched between 2 wooden boards with bolts on all 4 sides to permanently compress the capacitor to achieve approximately 10nF +- 5nF. This compression method might even help me fine-tune my tesla coil!  the aluminum plates will be tabbed, so that when they are stacked, the tabs will face opposite directions.  I might even submerge the capacitor in oil and pull a vacuum on it if I feel it will be necessary. However, I have not constructed a HV capacitor before, so I do not know how well this design will work. Does anyone have some experience in this matter? And lastly, my Power supply section to power the project: Has anyone built a ZVS-based tesla coil here? I see them all over youtube, with outputs ranging from millimeters (similar to my slayer exciter project)  to over a foot long! However, they never state what their PSU is rated for, or use 12 Lead Acid batteries, which I feel would be a bit impractical. So my question is: To get the output I desire, how many volts and amps should my power supply be rated for? I am thinking either a 24V 10A Switchmode supply from amazon, with the voltage adjust maxed out, or a 28V 10.8A SMPS, or a cheaper 24V 15A. SMPS. I thought about making a unregulated supply with a large transformer and a high-amperage full-wave bridge rectifier, but this cost more, and I cant be certain on it's quality. Can SMPS be used? can the amperage be below 10A? most importantly, does anyone have good data on current draw @ given voltages @ given # of turns on the inductor and flyback?

Question by -max-    |  last reply

How do I make a microphone based light organ that can makes christmas lights dance to highs, mids, or lows?

I'm looking for an instructable that gives directions on how to make a light (color?) organ that I can plug christmas, rope, or any other light into and have them dance to either the Highs, mids, or lows of a song. Is it possible to have 3 plugs that can be independently adjusted to listen to highs, mids, or lows? Lastly, is it possible to switch between having the light always on and dim when it "hears" the music, and having the light off and turn on when it "hears" the music?  Where can I find such an instructable?  Thanks! 

Question by chasemassey    |  last reply

how to make a simple shocker circuit without using components from a camera?

 I want to make a shocker circuit whose o/p voltage will be adjustable according to my needs but it wouldn't be high enough to kill anyone i.e will give an o/p current of <=9 mA.

Question by mouli20    |  last reply

33cc Gas GS Moon Scooter Help? Answered

Ok, I already posted a question about this. The problem was a mislabeled sticker. Now I have more problems. The problem this time is my dad just randomly came out and started adjusting the idle screws for high speed and idling. It will now not run. I am not sure if he adjusted anything else but I need a bit of help. The engine model number is 1E36F 2-stroke 33cc engine and this is a GS Moon scooter. It has a full tank of gas/oil mixture which is correctly mixed yesterday.

Question by Electric Spectre1    |  last reply

PVC Unistruts??

Hi, I need to make 10 garden carts. They have to be light weight, capable of handling 400-600 lbs, have a 4' x 5' adjustable height platform, and on casters. I was thinking about making the supporting structure out of a high tensile strength poly vinyl rectangular or square tubing. Anyone know of a source??? Thanks

Question by mtn826  

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Sentry Gun and PIR sensors

Hello, I have a question about PIR sensors for a robot I'm making. Most have a digital pin that goes high when movement is detected. The time that this pin stays high for (delay time) is often adjustable by a variable resistor on the sensor. My problem is that I need a sensor with no delay time - the digital pin should go low as soon as movement stops. If anyone could point me in the direction of a pir sensor with no delay time/one with a very short delay time (under 0.5s) I would be grateful. Or possibly, If I were to remove the variable resistor, would that remove the delay time? thanks.

Topic by SentryGunner  

Fixing green laser lense

Last year I bought a 5mw eBay laser (green 532nm wavelength) and it had an adjustable focus. I scratched the lens and it never focus right so I took the lens off. Now I am interested in fixing it again and I don't know how to get/make/buy/obtain a new lens for the laser. It always said it was 5mw but I think it was more powerful because it could burn through bags, light leaves on fire, pop balloons, light matches at 6 inches. This is what the laser looked like.;=item417cf7792c

Question by waterrocketexpert    |  last reply

10 Watt LED Circuit

I am a software developer by trade and have little or no experience regarding LED and/or electronic designs. I am hoping someone here can help with a project I am working on using high brightness LEDs. I have studied several 'instructables' and specifically dan's "Circuits for using High Power LED's." My project consists of a few high brightness LEDs that will be placed in a high ceiling room with the brightness controlled by a microcontroller based on the light in the room (time of day, sun in window, etc). The microcontroller will use photocells to determine the brightness in the room and then adjust the LED using PWM pins. The LED is 10 watt and approximately 450 lumens. Attached is a circuit I drew as a starting point and would like help in determining if it will work, I am close or does it need to be trashed. I am not sure what the value for the resistor should be. Below are some calculations but not sure if I am on the right track or not. No need to be kind, I am more interested in getting it right and not losing any 'magic puffs of smoke' from any of the components. Here are the specs: LED IF: 1.6 A Peak Forward Current: 1.7 A Forward Voltage: 8 V LM350 (heavy duty version of LM317 IO_MAX: 4.5 A 1.2 - 25 V adjustable regulator BC337-40 Collection Current - Continuous: 800 mA dc Total Device Dissipation: 625 mW Resistor: 5W or 10W Voltage Amp Ohms Watt 8 1.60 5.0 12.8 8 0.80 10.0 10.0 8 1.10 7.5 8.5 Note: LED and components will have adequate heat sinks.

Topic by desnotes    |  last reply

Soft Pretzels, Modify a Rubik's Cube, Steampunk Keyboard

  Soft Pretzels Modify a Rubik's Cube Steampunk Keyboard The Evil Geocache Coffee Cup Cake Milk Crate Garden Cheap Screen Printing Adjustable Paracord Chair Knex Piano Playing Robot Baking Bread Chest Camera Rest Easy Solar Oven High-Power LED Bike Light Coffee Cup Ceiling Aid Auto-Watering Plant Nursery

Topic by randofo  

International 345 v8 engine trouble? Answered

I have a 345 v8 international engine that will not idle. It runs fine if you rev it up but as soon as you take your foot of the pedal it will idle roughly for 20 seconds before stalling. I have put a new set of points in and also adjusted the timing correctly. What would be causing the engine to not idle. Also I have adjusted the idle screw and the place at which it will run is way to high for an idle so I can eliminate this as a problem. I have taken the top of the carby and can see that both jets are squirting as per usual. It has really got me confused this one. The only thing I can think of is vacuum advance but I can't see how it should effect it at an idle. Your help would be much appreciated.

Question by legend4930    |  last reply

Best LED driver?

I need to driver (5) 1watt white LEDs (forward voltage of 3.2~3.5v) and current of 350mA. I guess the best way would be to connect them all in series and somehow give them power. This is meant to be powered off of the wall socket (whether through SMPS or a capacitor or a resistor or a transformer or anything.). My question is what's the best way to drive them? I've never really used high power LEDs before. I'd also prefer to be able to adjust the brightness...

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply

Engine to Compressor? Answered

I am planning on making a very high volume compressor from a small engine.  I plan to adjust timing and stuff accordingly.  I just wan't to make sure an engine can handle the pressure.  I assume it can because of the explosions it can contain but I just want to be sure it can handle 125-200psi.  And also, is 2 stage really necessary or can I just push all the air in in one stage with a couple pistons.

Question by    |  last reply

555 timeout troubles?

Evening all,  This is most likely a very basic problem but for the life of me I can't find the solution. The project: auto folding wing mirrors (see below);=attach&section;=attach&attach;_id=6108 The problem: for some reason my alarm logic is the opposite way round, most likely due to the removal of my motion sensor due to it tripping my alarm when locked. Now I have modified the circuit shown in the PDF to remove TR2 and R4 so the I/P to the 555 is kept high by the 12v alarm signal. I have a pot between pin 2 and ground so I can adjust the pull down point as the alarm signal only drops to 9.7V and, obviously, the 555 needs logic high or low. So, having adjusted the pull down point, I find that the 5 second timeout, which worked when I first built the circuit as per the PDF, no longer switches the O/P off.  So so what am I doing wrong or is it just best to us a picaxe to do all of this as I code write up the code in half an hour or so. thanks

Question by LED Maestro    |  last reply

Ghetto programmer and 16Mhz

First off, Hello everyone. I built the ghetto parallel port programmer, adjusting the pinouts to work with a attiny26 and it works flawlessly.Kudos to the author.My problem is that when I drop in an external crystal rated at 16Mhz I avrdude quits because of a faulty signature; I assume this means the timings are off.At firs I thought I had misconfigured the fuses, but ,thankfully, when I dropped an 8Mhz crystal in it worked again. I know this uC can be clocked this high, so what's the problem? thanks

Topic by hacim  

Higher powered speakers with lower powered amp or Low powered speakers with higher power amp?

There is a lot of conflicting information on this and I would like to know if my speakers/amp would get damaged. Using 80w speakers and a 50w amp will there be any problems with running on full volume? And if I got a 100w amp with those 80w speakers will there be damage, even if I added a heat sink to the back where the voice coil is? The speakers say 80w max but not really reliable as they are well priced Chinese speakers. Speakers: 80W Audio Sensitivity: 88dB Frequency Range (Hz): 100-20Khz 4 Ohm Amp: Efficiency: 90% Rated output power: 2*50W+100W Working voltage: DC18V to DC24V The maximum output current: 4A Frequency Response: 20Hz-20KHz Can drive a 3-16 ohm speakers In the condition of rated voltage 24V The sub woofer channel at rated voltage 24V state can drive 2-16 ohm sub woofer Bass cut-off frequency independent regulation 20HZ-20KHZ adjustable Very confusing conflicting info online with under rated amps causing clipping and over powered amps frying the speakers. Originally I thought it was only bad to over power the speakers. Any help about what is worse, is appreciated.

Question by bonze77    |  last reply

Plumbing Help

Help! We just moved into a new house and the water pressure seemed pretty high, especially at the bathroom sink (it sprays everywhere when turned on full).  I tested the pressure at an exterior hose bib and it measured at 81 psi.  It also measured at 79 psi at the cold water supply valve for the washing machine.  I sent the pictures listed here to my father-in-law, who seems to believe that I can adjust the pressure with the current plumbing system.  I looked everywhere for a pressure regulator in the line, but couldn't find one.  The only thing I can think of is that he believes the gray valve above the meter is a glob valve and can be used to throttle down the pressure.   Any help would be appreciated!

Topic by dklaver15    |  last reply

dirt bike bogging?

I have this crf150rb and i will let it idle for about ten minutes to warm it up then try to give it a fast throttle wile its in nutrule but it will bog out and sometimes kill the bike but if i rev it slow then i stop reving it it will idle really high like it is still being reved. so me and my dad took out the carboratour and cleaned the jets and the jets were clean so we replaced the lean and ritch screw because we relized the top was broken on it so wee adjusted the leann/rich screw and we put the carb back on and nothing changed so we have no idea what is going on can anybody please help im desperate!!!!!

Question by ElliotL5    |  last reply

Overheating Car - Causes and Short - Term Solutions

Overheating of the engine not only occurs in the summer, but can also occur in daily driving. In particularly, high-speed running cars, engines, and air-conditioning systems can cause boiling phenomenon when the water temperature is too high. It's dangerous to overheat the engine. It may hard luck that what can damage the engine. When driving on highways at a higher speed, or when climbing a car, if the pointer of the water temperature gauge enters the red zone and stays high, appropriate measures should be taken at this time. Here's how to handle the engine overheating.There are many causes of overheating, including insufficient coolant, cooling fan cooling the coolant has failed, thermostat failure, and coolant temperature sensor failure. If you deal with it improperly, it can lead to an expensive engine failure. Therefore, timely detection and proper disposal of overheating can effectively reduce losses.First, poor engine cooling: Poor engine cooling can cause the water temperature in the tank to be too high. When longer the water tank is used, the more internal scale will build up, resulting in poor heat dissipation in the radiator. The water with too high temperature will not release heat, and it will evolve into a "pan". In addition, the ventilation hole of the radiator is also a common cause of poor heat dissipation. If the external blockage is not ventilated, use a water gun to clean it up. If the inside of the radiator is blocked, then clean it with a cleaning solution. Second, the cooling system is not working properly, resulting in poor heat dissipation. At this time, check the tightness of the fan belt and whether the fan blades are deformed or broken.Third, the thermostat automatically adjusts the amount of water entering in to the radiator according to the temperature of the cooling water, so as to ensure that the engine works within a suitable temperature range, which can play a role in saving energy consumption. If the engine is overheated, check that the thermostat is working properly. Starts at 70°C and fully open at 83°C. When the height of the fully opened valve is not less than 9 mm, the thermostat can be put into the water for heating inspection. If the thermostat can't be opened or the opening degree is not enough, the thermostat needs to be replaced.

Topic by violantez    |  last reply

Smart amplifier design building blocks help? (making an amp w/ auto-volume adjust by controlling gain with running avg)

I am currently working on a simple headphone audio amp that automatically adjusts volume to my preference, regardless of what video I click on when it is plugged into a computer. I am tired of some video's being so quiet that I have to crank up the volume to overdrive to hear it, while other video's blast out sound and burst my eardrums. And of course when watching photonicinduction videos, he often can be hard to hear his voice at really low volume at like 12 at night when everyone is asleep, but then the sparks and hammers come into the picture, it is often too late to crank the volume back down, and thus makes your ears bleed or waking everyone up in the neighborhood! X-(. (Luckily he has included sound warnings, but I am lazy, and will engineer things that do the hard work of adjusting volume for me! :)   ) In a way, I understand that this will minimize the dynamic range, which I suppose hardcore "audiophiles" will go NUTS over me actually WANTING to do that, but none the less, That is what I want. My design currently is just a simple emitter follower with a NPN and PNP transistor is the class AB operation, and to minimize crossover distortion and give a definite gain, I have negative feedback op amp from the output of the totem pole transistor arrangement back to the inputs that feed the base of the low and high side transistor. (obviously, the transistors by themselves are low impedance output, (CV mode) and high impedance input, and have a gain of like 1.) Sorry, no schematics, but you capable of googling it if you want to see what I am describing. As it is, it works fine. HOWEVER, it does not do the automatic volume, or gain control. That is set in stone by a resistor divider network between the feedback and ground (the basic non inverting amp feedback config.) I do not want a fixed gain. I want a electrically adjustable gain. The thing I plan to use to do the automatic adjustment would be a peak detector on the input, which is probably going to be a simple diode and capacitor with a buffer, and a discharge resistor (or constant current drain) across the capacitor to gradually lower the max output, or possibly an integrating op amp that effectively takes a running average. The output of that needs to control GAIN of the primary amplifier, and I want to be able to control the PID of that thing, maybe by tuning the a LCR circuit, or what have you. It is all nice and analog, just the way I like it! :) If ONLY there was some magical (and common) component that I could control the resistance anywhere in the feedback loop, of with a given voltage w/ respect to ground... I was thinking of like a MOSFET, but I would have to deal with the non linearity of the input vs output impedance, which probably changes with respect to everything from the current flowing through the channel, the voltage relative to ground at the source, the temperature, the alignment of the planet's, what mood god is in, etc etc etc. That is too many factors for an open loop control on to model in discrete stuff! And digital potentiometers are out of the question since, well they are digital, I want an elegant simple solution, and the are $$ and difficult to deal with. They have so many requirements that need to be addressed.  I prefer a elegant discrete transistor circuit, but op amps and other basic building blocks are acceptable, (this thing I want to be built over a weekend with with jellybean parts from by junk bin.) if you happen to know of a specific audio chip that does this for me, please mention it, but I will probably not use it, but maybe analyze the internal circuitry and learn how it works.

Question by -max-    |  last reply

What is the best way to dim AC LEDs

I was wondering what is the best way to control a AC load with a Arduino. I am planning on building a Christmas lights display that will react to music that is playing. I would like to be able to control the rightness of the LEDs to. I know that Triacs are normally used to control AC loads but I've read that they supply inconsistent dimming. Another idea I had was to use a bridge rectifier to turn in to dc, then use a Mosfet to run it at like 10% duty cycle to avoid blowing the LEDs (Not sure if they could take the extended time under high load they might be subjected to). Then just increase or decrease the duty cycle to adjust the brightness. So all in all my question is will that work and is there a better way to do it.

Topic by supernoodle2014  

Troubling Flyback Transformer Pins

Hello,       I'd like to request someone to share their knowledge about their "flyback" knowledge or experiences with me since I'm having trouble finding the primary coil pins with my flyback transformer. I'm constructing my own HV power supply and I decided to go through this tutorial.       I've read much on the web and found the 0v output pin of my flyback. The problem is .. I couldn't find the primary and secondary since I'm using an analog multimeter and the tutorials on the web are all digital..       When I test the pins with my multimeter set to ohm range of x1, I do not get a pair of 1 ohm pins but instead I got the result of "Continuity" when I test on following pins, they seems to be connected but none of the pins show to 1 ohm.. and thus I've adjust the Ohm Adjustment. The results are Continuity 1 : 1,2,6,8 Continuity 2 : 3,4,7,10 No Continuity: 5,9 Pin no 5 is 0v output..  I've attached the pin number diagram at photos... my drawing and actual pins.. Have you got any idea to find out the primary coil? I've also attach my driver from CFL.. Thanks

Topic by    |  last reply

what to do with a 50,000 volt Tesla coil?!

I just got a 50,000 volt Tesla coil (Oudin coil) for Christmas. I dont have a clue what i could use it for, i need inspiration. My uncle likes to surprise me with semi random things so other than shocking metal tables i just dont know what to do with it. ---from (where he ordered it)While more accurately called an Oudin Coil, these are commonly referred to as a hand-held "Tesla Coil." This coil is self-contained in a heavy duty Bakelite case which forms a convenient handle. The spark is adjustable from 10,000 to 50,000 volts at frequencies of approximately 1/2 megahertz. The high frequency spark produced is about 1" long and can be used for a wide array of applications. An instrument like this is intended for intermittent use only and must be turned off after 10 minutes of use. The electrode furnished is approximately 2" long and the instrument is furnished with an intensity adjusting knob. For 115v, 50/60 Hz. An improved SAFETY FEATURE is the ON/OFF momentary switch which is in the handle. This makes our Oudin Coil extra safe for classroom use. (Runs on standard North American line current, 110 volts 60 Hz)

Topic by i make shooting things    |  last reply

Kirlian Aura Kamera For Sale - Aura Photography!

WOW!  This is an original working 1997 Kirlian Aura Kamera by Triune-Being Research Org out of Canada.  It uses high voltage to generate an aura on a photo plate which transfers the image to Polaroid film.  Everything works...I have the instruction manual and both parts - the generator and photo box. Specs: 10KV to 50KV, 500 KHz adjustable generator Photo Plate with black sleeve and Polaroid Housing for Type 889, Polacolor 100 or 100 Pro Film $60 or Best Offer - over 21 only, I prefer local pick-up in Oakland, CA.  The unit used to be used at events and with current (no pun intended) insurance rules this device is not appropriate any longer and has been replaced by digital photography.

Topic by partyink  

Vintage Headphone repair, help needed

I have some vintage Superex Stereophones, model Pro B-VI (with a google search only find an ad in a paper dated 1973 referencing them). They have both a tweeter and a woofer in each ear, and I believe the resistors in the crossovers have gone bad. The high end drops out now and then to pop back in after a short while or after a minor volume adjustment - other than that the volume is crystal clear. Am I right in assuming the resistors could be the issue? The other components in the crossovers are just inductor coils, which are know are for the low pass, so it can't be those. I know instructables isn't a electronics repair forum, but I wasn't too sure of where else I could ask and find knowledgeable people. I love this site. :) I.W.

Topic by incredibleweirdo    |  last reply

Arduino capacitive touch sensor help

So I have been messing around with the Arduino Capsense library with the immensely helpful guide;  (many thanks to DangerousTim!)   using the code provided, i managed to get a relay to operate with a sensor.  It worked great and I was able to adjust the distance and sensitivity.  But when i tried adding another sensor and relay, it stopped working.  I've been trying to isolate the problem for a while now and have gotten nowhere.  I'm hoping someone can help me, here's the original code for the single sensor and relay; #include #include                                           //change '42' to any desired pin... long time = 0; int state = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);  // To add more sensors... //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_6 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 6, pin 6 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_8 = CapacitiveSensor(4,8);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 8, pin 8 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);   } void loop()                    {     long total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);            if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}            // to toggle the state of state         if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){              if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH; }     else state = LOW;     time = millis();     }                     digitalWrite(13, state);            previous = yes;                 delay(10); } and here's the code for the two sensors and relays #include int led = 13;     int led2 = 12;    long time = 0; int state = HIGH; long time2 = 0; int state2 = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; boolean yes2; boolean previous2 = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 2, pin 2 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil if desired CapacitiveSensor   cs_5_7 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    cs_5_7.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);  //Calibrate the sensor...    pinMode(led, OUTPUT);    pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); } void loop()                    {     int total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);     Serial.println(total1);     int total2 =  cs_5_7.capacitiveSensor(30);                     if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}    if (total2 > 60){yes2 = true;}     else {yes2 = false;}           // to toggle the state of state     if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){                    if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH;        }        else          state = LOW;          time = millis();      }                          if(yes2 == true && previous2  == false && millis() - time2>debounce){                   if(state2 == LOW){          state2 = HIGH;        }        else          state2 = LOW;            time2 = millis();            }                 digitalWrite(led, state);       previous = yes;       digitalWrite(led2, state2);       previous2 = yes2;                  delay(10); } Any suggestions are always helpful.

Topic by dudes    |  last reply

Focus an LED

I was wondering if anyone knew how to focus more than one LED (infra red) into one tightish (about 1m at 100ms) beam. This would actually be for a laser tag gun that i would like to make an instructable about. The game is based on these high powered infrared leds that are focused by a 2cm-5cm diameter double convex lens assembly. Snipers obviously need further distance and have a tight beam while others have a much wider beam. The focus can be adjusted by moving the led back or forwards. Having more than one LED may lead to dramatic leaps in range (so it is theorised). I have been told to use cube beam splitter but i don't even know what they are. Thanks community any help is seriously much appreciated Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou


How do you make a sound activated switch?

So basically I'm looking to make a circuit that detects a (preferably adjustable) level of sound and completes another circuit and keeps that circuit completed until the sound level drops.  I've looked around on Google but I cant find any momentary circuits.  I find things like clapper kits and stuff that switches something on and keeps it on.  I want to use this on my paintball loader so when it detects the sound of the gun firing it activates the motor.  (like a Halo or some other high end loader)  The loader is a Viewloader force with the ON-Demand jack. +One last thing this cant be too huge because I want to be able to velcro it to the side of my loader.  If you know of a circuit like this or have a picture or a link That would be great; thank you all in advance :D    

Question by junits15    |  last reply

Stun Gun Mod Suggestions/Tips? HV Power!

The 2 images are the type of stun gun parts I have, I believe its a spark gap igniter one but m not 100% on that as I would rather leave it in the cardboard circular case unless I get confirmation it could be modified. What kinds of projects could this be used for, I'm pretty sure its DC powered and attempted putting the outputs to curved metal electrodes for a Jacobs ladder but arc stays in one spot after many adjustments.  Ive only worked with HVAC with an unrectified flyback for plasma globes. Anyone have any suggestions on what to pump this badboy into. P.S. Using 2 metal screws from an Xbox 360 and putting them very close together makes a very nice whistle to it, :).

Topic by thebellbell  

LM386 amplifier overheating? Answered

I built a simple LM386 based audio amplifier (schematic attached), but it appears to be over-amplifying, as it makes horrible squeaking noises and picks up a lot of interference. It also gets very hot in use, so I only switch it on for a few seconds at a time. I'm guessing this is because of the high amplification as I have a commercial amplifier that uses an LM386 and it does so without a heatsink, although unfortunately I can't reverse-engineer it and even if I did, my circuit would almost certainly have to be remade. I tried changing the potentiometer today from 1k to 10k and even 100k, but they didn't have much affect. What component(s) should I change to give ti less amplification, I only need about 2-6 times amplification, preferably adjustable but it doesn't matter too much.

Question by andy70707    |  last reply

Which lacrosse gloves do I choose? Answered

I recently got a coupon for 25% any Warrior or Brine item at a lacrosse store. I need new gloves, and I have narrowed it down to two pairs. Should I get the Warrior Riot Custom (red-black-white.)? (25% off of $120) The first lacrosse glove with inerchangeable - SWITCH CUFFS - for instant customization right off the retail shelf Each Riot glove comes with 2 cuffs - one home and one away Mix and match your stock cuffs or purchase accessory SWITCH CUFFS - available in multiple colorways and designs The Riot glove features a new tighter fitting pattern for the perfect snug fit The single layered palm gives you by far the best touch on your stick and makes it feel like you aren't even wearing gloves Breakaway Lacrosse exclusive color in Black, Red and White Leather. Or should I get the Brine King Superlight Custom (red-white)? (25% off of $100) Introducing the 1st glove in the Brine Superlight Series where dramatic amounts of weight have been removed by the use of high-tech materials and manufacturing processes. The King Superlight boasts the lightest weight in the Brine family, coming in at 6 oz! Dual material build of high end leather and high grade nylon knit. Superb Back hand venting and dual density foam make this glove a fortress for you hands. New palm design that allows for ultimate air flow. Great mobility and flexibility with an adjustable floating cuff. Ventilator moisture-management performance liner. Breathable mesh palm inserts and finger gussets. Breakaway Lacrosse Exclusive Color, Red Leather, White Mesh and White Print

Question by freeza36    |  last reply

Op-Amp Help

Hi- So, I made the circuit below to make sound-reactive blinky LEDs for a halloween costume (the round thing on the left is a condenser mic). I think I just got lucky that it worked, because I'm no genius when it comes to op-amp usage or design. Now I want to adapt it to control something else that needs a slightly higher voltage than the LEDs. Basically, I'd like the output to swing as high as V+ when the mic input is "loud" (a relative and possibly adjustable level). I've messed around with various resistor values as well as adding or removing resistors in places it seemed like it would help (according to the LM741 datasheet). All to no avail. Anyone out there who might know what to do? Again, I want the mic input to cause the output to go as hight as V+ (9V in this case) when it's loud, and be more or less at 0V when it's "quiet." Thanks in advance, _mykle

Topic by deadbilly    |  last reply

Arduino Code? Answered

Int redPin = 9; int greenPin = 10; int bluePin = 11; int buzzerPin = 7; int potPin = 1; int sensorPin = 0; long red = 0xFF0000; long green = 0x00FF00; long blue = 0x000080; int band = 10; // adjust for sensitivity void setup() {   pinMode(potPin, INPUT);   pinMode(sensorPin, INPUT);   pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);   pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT);   pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT);   pinMode(buzzerPin, OUTPUT); } void loop() {     int gsr = analogRead(sensorPin);     int pot = analogRead(potPin);     if (gsr > pot + band)     {         setColor(red);         beep();     }     else if (gsr > 16;     int green = (rgb >> 8) & 0xFF;     int blue = rgb & 0xFF;     analogWrite(redPin, red);     analogWrite(greenPin, green);     analogWrite(bluePin, blue); } void beep() {     for (int i=0; i<1000; i++)     {         digitalWrite(buzzerPin, HIGH);         delayMicroseconds(100);         digitalWrite(buzzerPin, LOW);         delayMicroseconds(100);     } } The code does not compile properliy it says steColour was not defined in the scope.Its a lie detector code.

Question by oallaa    |  last reply

automatic switching of street lights by using ldr and relay

 hey me and my friends were ton a project of automatic switching of a street light depending on the brightness in the surroundings. so we decided to use an ldr(light dependent resistor). here in this circuit ldr has low resistance in brightness(only few ohms) and very high resistance in complete  darkness(nearly 1M ohm).so the transistor Q1 becomes on in day times and Q2 becomes off and hence the relay remains in NC(normally closed) state and the lamp will not glow. at night the transistor Q1 becomes OFF and Q2 becomes ON and hence the relay goes to NO(normally open) state and the lamp glows.and the sensitivity of the device can be varied by adjusting the potentiometer  now i just want to know are there any defects in this circuit so can u please help me in knowing the drawbacks and correcting them and i want to know whether i can connect a relay in place of a fuse as shown at bottom

Question by spartans    |  last reply

Zenith 68-7 Bendix Carb Help? Answered

I have been working on my Wisconsin AENL engine for a project (A bike or now I am thinking maybe a racing lawnmower) and I had it running since I re-built it, however, it was running a bit off, so I cleaned the carb.  Afterward it wouldn't run.  I did not adjust any of the settings on it, and I can put gas in through the spark plug hole and it fires, so I am sure it is the carb.  I have since moved the settings (Idle and high speed jet) to see what would happen, but I have kept note of where they were set.  Usually I have no problem fixing engines, however, I don't have as much experience with these engines or there carbs and thought it a good idea to seek some help before proceeding. Thanks

Question by Electric Spectre1    |  last reply