Anyone has an idea on how to clean this burnt iron? Thanks. AL.
Topic by alsports2000 | last reply
I am thinking of purchasing a desoldering iron, because braid gets annoying, and i was looking at one at radioshack, its just a soldering iron with a hole in its end and the hole leads of a mounted bulb. i was wondering how they work, the iron heat the solder, and u press the bulb and it sucks the solder, but where does the solder go? into the bulb? how do you get the solder out?
Topic by um0123 | last reply
Hello. No one seems to have done anything in this group at all since inception. That honestly sucks, as I was hoping that someone would have put in some time and at least come out with some sketches, or put their thoughts down on paper. Well I am not one to complain without doing something about the problem. First up is the issue of powered movement. That is the core of Iron Man's super strength. You have 3 real options here. Hydraulic, Stepper Motor, or Servo Motor. I have filtered out hydraulic simply because it is not as easy to work with as the other electrical motors. I found a comparison chart, and a link to it is posted below. http://www.legacycncwoodworking.com/stepper-vs-servo-motors/ Based on the information it contained, I would say that a stepper motor is the most efficient way to go. It takes more power to run, and generates more heat, but neither of those problems is difficult to deal with. Heat syncs, and a propane/natural gas generator will solve both of those problems readily. The next problem is the exoskeleton, the armored body of Iron Man. I have looked into materials, and the difficulty in casting them, or machining them. ZA, or Zinc Aluminum alloys seem to be the way to go. They are relatively easy to make, requiring only about 900F to melt them, they cast extremely well, and they make extremely fine detailed castings. When they set up, they have hardness equivalent to that of Cast Iron. They also lend themselves readily to sand casting, mold casting, and to graphite casting. Alright, I have put my 2 cents in. Lets hear from the rest of you.
Topic by xarlock667 | last reply
Ok, i have been looking through some instructables and everyyone is going to great lengths to get a litle bit of rust by electrolysis). however, burning some steel wool would produce iron oxide? i think i'm right? lol, this would produce black iron oxide is that ok to make thermite with?
Topic by andy60 | last reply
My last soldering iron needs to be retired, it will no longer melt solder, and was originally purchased sometime in the 80's. So I need a new soldering iron, but I do not know which one to buy. Should I get a 25 watt or 30 watt to make sure I have enough heat? Also are any of the soldering stations with the variable heat gun worth it? For now I will have to be careful and use my butane soldering iron (I have not burned any components yet).
Topic by kcedgerton | last reply
I have a woodburner and I was wondering if I could use it as a soldering iron? Is it just getting hot enough to melt the solder that I have to worry about or is there some kind of load problem with using a woodburner for this purpose? need help!! (obviously)
Topic by bardon08 | last reply
Well theres been a minor hicuup in my soldering iron if any cd help the soldering iron doesnt heat up proprly the led which acts as indicator somtyms brights up sometym is dimmd or doesnt lyt is there a problem with the soldring iron or mains line
Question by chatsbk007 | last reply
I am new to soldering and am looking to buy an iron. Any suggestions on beginner irons would be great. I plan on mostly using it for soldering small electronics. Also I would like to buy at a store and not over the internet. Again, any advice is greatly appreciated.
Topic by sardines454 | last reply
Im liiking to buy a soldering iron. I really dont know all that much about them, so i was hoping i could get some advice on what i should purchase for general use soldering. Do i need a variable heat iron? Wattage? Heat? im hoping something from radio shack (under $20) will get me by.
Topic by ScubaSteve | last reply
Could we send something to mars to strip mine the surface and gather all of the iron oxide, then using a solar mirror array direct sunlight onto the days collections and melt them into iron. Then ship it to earth in a giant iron blob which would be transported by some kind of ship. I assume this either hasn't been proposed or is not practical because I haven't seen anything like it before.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
Hi, we’re a team of engineering undergrads hoping to redesign the soldering iron. Specifically, we’re looking at making it safer and more usable by younger teens and children. We’re looking for any feedback or advice you might have, especially if you have kids, so if you can spare a few minutes to fill out our survey, that’d be awesome. Or if you have any questions, feel free to shoot us an email at: email@example.com. Thank you for your time and input! https://docs.google.com/forms/d/14cAsPIbiU_jf09aFBU03nplbYuBtr0JpTPzrWEp4OFw/viewform also, does anyone know why there is so much metal exposed towards the tip?
Topic by solderotter | last reply
Hi Guys, I just bought a new soldering iron for the first time. When i plugged it into the wall outlet it started smoking (not alot) well that scared the living crap out of me, so I turned it off. So can any of you guys tell me that should I just dump the iron or is it normal. Please guys help (and there was a bit of smoke near the handle too). Oh and another interesting thing is that after 10 seconds of plugging it in it started melting solder ( its a 35 or 30 watt iron ) Thanks in advance. -Prickly Potato
Question by The Prickly Potato | last reply
Is it just me or do you have to "break in" a soldering iron before it's really usful? I've had a new soldering iron for about amonth (using it about 4 hours to 8 hours a week) and it only started to solder really well in the past couple of days. Anybody know why? Also my soldering iron kind of has a hot spot, where you the solder melts really well, that normal?
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
I do not like the factory seasoning on a cast iron skillet I have. Should I season over it or remove the factory black, nasty crap and season on my own from scratch? It's a shame how poorly companies, even good ones like Lodge have such poor quality seasoning on their products.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
How would you build iron mans repulsors? I have some already... You could use a transducer for particle displacement, you might be able to send an ion beam through a "tunnel" of a heavier particle, since it can't travel fast in air. I need ideas! Thanks, Laserbeamtoast.
Topic by Laserbeamtoast | last reply
There is a "rust movement" that seems to be in fashion these days. I understand that iron will rust but it seems to be made to happen a bit faster than normal in the dry Arizona desert. One picture is of a fence that has been finished for some time. The other is of a mail box that was just finished.
Question by onrust | last reply
Next weekend, I'll be going on a campout with my boy scout troop. (Nothing new to me). As every year, we will be having a mock "Iron Chef" competition. A charcoal pit will be provided for the cooking, as will some cast iron dutch-ovens. I would like to bring my own fry pan however. I am debating whether to bring a stainless or cast iron. I have both, and am fairly well able to cook with both. (besides my horrible cooking skills.) However, I'd like to see some suggestions, and here some viewpoints on the matter. I am not certain if we will be allowed the use of our propane stoves or not.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
Hello, I'm shopping for a new soldering iron and I was hoping for some advice or recommendations. I'm a professional auto tech, and do plenty of soldering there, but I'm getting back into electronics stuff for a hobby. My butane iron is fine for work, but I need a better iron for boards and the like. Do you think its too early to get a temp control iron? Would a nice stand alone iron suffice for now? I'm not afraid to spend some money on a nice station but $100 is around the max I could budget now. My tool guy at work deals with Weller, so that would be convenient for a tad pricier set up. I'm greatful for any advice or help, and hope to have a project on here soon. Thank you
Topic by Mrlzeppelin | last reply
please sent me pictures and instruction on iron man projects because i am making a suit and i wanted know what other people build and please no small shiity things because they piss me off so if you are making any things like arm suit please sent them in and this iron man out
Topic by The ironman | last reply
Well today i finally got my soldering iron Weller marksman 25 watts for $ 17.75 but i turned it on it smoldered for 3 minutes then stopped then the tip started to get black and solder wont stick to it is that oxidization and how and what do i use to clean it off
Question by albylovesscience | last reply
Hello sorry if this is the wrong place, i'm pretty new here. recently i got a 30w solder iron and found this instructable to make it adjustable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Create-an-Adjustable-Soldering-Iron/ I know it won't be as good as buying a real adjustable iron but this is cheaper and will work. I have a little potentiometer that i got from a lamp but unlike most it only has 2 terminals and a space for a third. i did some experimenting and it seems to work fine, the 2 terminals are a middle and one to the right then a space to the left i hooked a wire in the space and it basically worked in reverse to when it clicked off it turned the (in this case) motor. so my real question is how do i wire this up, can i just wire the "hot" wire threw the pot and will it work to make my iron semi adjustable the only info i have on the pot is that on the top it says B500k i can take a picture of it if needed.
Topic by chairsgotoschool | last reply
Would regular clorox bleach in a container with a peice of iron over time create iron oxide?
Question by trf | last reply
I am considering making a mini branding iron (about 3/4" square) out of brass with my initial to brand my work. I have some brass which I hope to transfer my initial on and then cut with a rotary tool. First I have to transfer the pattern,and thinking of using my ink jet printer and some acetone, and then proceeding to cut away with my rotary tool. Do anyone have any suggestions or tips? Thanks
Question by WazIt | last reply
Hi guys! I found a beautiful charcoal iron at a flea-market and grabbed it up without giving it much thought. Now I have no idea how to bring it back to it`s former glory. The base is iron, and pretty damn corroded iron at that. The good part is that it isn't chipping. The bad part is that the whole thing is orange... The handle is made of wood and there's no way that I can see to take it off. Any ideas?
Topic by TashaDax | last reply
the clue is in the question....
Question by wizzywoo | last reply
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Topic by beserker | last reply
Hello Everyone, I recently found out about Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. I have read that it does not affect the electrodes like salt or baking soda and it does not create any weird gasses like chlorine. The main reason for using stainless steel electrodes is to prevent this corrosion, but since sodium hydroxide does not create this corrosion, can I just use the much cheaper iron or regular steel as the electrode plates? Thanks in advance
Topic by JStuyfzand | last reply
I have just brought a brand new soldering iron. I just plugged it in and kept it aside for a minute (so that it becomes hot ). after a minute or so Inoticed my iron's color gradually became darker (from silver to black). Its a brand new product and now it is not getting hot faster.please help
Question by ashish_scientific | last reply
Here's an idea that someone can use for the robot contest if they want, I would but I just don't have the money.You buy 4 linear actuators (such as the ones here: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=91&products;_id=7)And you attach one to each limb, giving you super strength.I just don't have like 500 dollars to spend
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
When I pull a magnet over the dirt it sticks to the magnet then when I blow of the dirt there is black powder. Is this magnetite, iron, or what is it (it is not from a disinigrated piece of metal, its all over)?? How would I collect this powder fastly and efficiently?? Thanks
Question by electronicz | last reply
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Topic by beserker | last reply
After using my desoldering iron for approximately 1-2 hours I had melted the tip, rendering it useless. I have since gotten replacement tips. I do also want to add that the desoldering iron and tip were brand new, just out of the pack, and yes, I was using it correctly =) But is their a suggested maximum amount of time someone should use the iron to avoid this? http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-45-watt-desoldering-iron/6402060.html#.VJYyN-uAK4
Question by OrangeJ | last reply
I am a newbie at soldering, and I recently bought a $8 iron from radioshack. After the first time I used it, it had already began to erode. I think I tined it like I was suposed to. I melted a little bit of solder on it, and wiped off the excess. Would wiping it to much do this. Please help.
Question by electronicdude | last reply
Question by grsnp-guy | last reply