I made a knife out of a binder it is razor sharp should I post how to make it
Topic by Pat Sowers
I had the greatest idea, ever.... A pair of pants that protrudes a knife out of your crotch every time you do a pelvic thrust..... Not sure why, though. I really want to make one, but I don't know how I would go about doing so. Any help/advice, fellow Instructable'ers?
Topic by Juklop | last reply
I recently bought a my first multi tool (leather man juice) and was wondering how after the fact I could get it engraved. I do not have an engraver nor do I know any friend who have one. Is there any place I could go to have it done? Thanks in advance, Pigpenguin
Question by pigpenguin | last reply
I have this really cheap-y bowie knife I bought on a whim that I hadn't really used before now. At first I was all happy because I had a giant bowie knife to swing at trees, but then I started to realize just how cheap-y it is: with a hard swing and something(dead tree, for example) the blade tends to bend a little..just wondering, is there any way to harden steel that would be plausible for this knife? The blade needs work anyway so if I can harden the steel I'll just add that to the list of things....I mean I can deal with a cheap-y handle and a cheap-y guard but a cheap-y blade is kind of a problem...
Topic by retrogamer9000 | last reply
I recently acquired a knife in poor condition. It is a Frost Cutlery Flying Falcon lock back. The thumb catch knob is missing and I was wondering if any one had an idea to replace it. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any info on stainless rostfrei.
Topic by masterochicken | last reply
I had made a few knives in my day, and one sword (long long ago, and no, I don't still have it). One of the places that has been around for awhile that has a good selection of supplies AND kits (for the beginner up to the master smith) is the Texas Knife Maker's Supply store Another place that looks good, although I have never dealt with them is the MidWest Knife Makers supply I also came across a place to get a Sheffield's Supply Catalog on line. And then there is always the Jantz Supply site. I hope these prove to be useful to you.
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
OK, i was wondering about how to conceal a knife, and i remember listening to Nocturnal podcast by Scott Sigler, and one of the gangsters had a knife in his shoe. i was wondering if i could hide a knife in my shoe like this:1. put the knife under that removable pad in the shoe.2. cut a hole in the back of the shoe that looks like this:|..................... | |_ _ _ _ _ _ _| |......................|dont mind the periods, they are just place markers.3. tie a string (fishing line) to one of the holes in the back of the handle, run the line through the above hole in the back of the shoe. 4. drill a hole in a quarter and tie the string to the quarter, then stick it in your pocket. when you need the knife, grab the quarter from your pocket, lift your leg with the shoe and knife, then pull it out. the way you cut it, the flaps will open and the knife will slide out, but will stay closed all other times. could someone please make an instructable on this, or tell me if it would work by testing it out?
Topic by A.C.E. | last reply
Would anyone be interested in an instructable on how to hone a blade to have a razor sharp edge? I have been working on my honing ability and I have gotten very good at it. I have a 4-inch knife that I can use to cut through a 1/2 - 1 inch peace of wood. I will put up vids of stuff that I cut as soon as I can find my camera.
Topic by Pat Sowers | last reply
Im new to instructables ive tried a few easy paracord projects but now want to try making my own knife I have a piece of 01 gauge 3mm high carbon steel and a few designs to start. I'm looking for some tips on shaping the blade, hardening and final sharpening. I'm sure there are lots of little tricks out there hopefully this way I won't have to learn them the hard way. Thanks dugie
Topic by dugie502 | last reply
I found this idea on an army of two 40th day gun idea site. I think that it would make the ultament weapon for knex wars. i would like to build this but i could use some help with the brass knuckles part and the knife. please help me with this awesome gun. knex man123456 ps. how do you change your name.
Topic by knex man123456 | last reply
Alright, here's my question. I ordered a knife (which should be coming soon) that comes with a Nylon sheath. Though there might not be any problems with the sheath itself, I've always preferred leather sheaths. Thus, I plan on making a replica of the sheath provided except made out of leather. The problem is I've never made a sheath for a fixed blade knife before, I've made ones for other people and myself to hold folding knives, but never fixed blade. So ... how do I go about making sure that the knife blade won't cut through the leather, the leather I have is stiff as a board so there shouldn't be a problem with the sheath bending and the knife poking through. There's a picture of the knife I ordered along with the provided sheath below.
Topic by LoneWolf | last reply
I attended a free i3 class on how to sharpen and hone your knives (I was the new kid with the hat) and I took some video. I will do a more through writeup in the ible when I get around to it, but when I do, who do I credit/link to? Also I learned a lot at the class, thanks guys!
Topic by The Ideanator | last reply
Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....
Topic by Downunder35m
If you havent heard of cold steel knifes check them out they seem amazingly durable.i want to get more or less the cheapest knife they have i have a great folding knife (only 2.8") but some times when your camping there are somethings that only a nice straight 7" long knife can do.There cheapest knife is the Bushman its a nice simple strait edge knife. you can throw these they are hollow handled and blade heavy. but i want to know which should i get the Bowie blade or the regular one whats the big diff? Video spec'sBUSHMANSpecifications:Weight: 10.1 oz.Blade Thickness: 3/32" (2.5mm)Blade Length: 7"Handle: HollowSteel: SK-5 High CarbonOverall Length: 12 1/4"Sheath: Cordura$29.99BOWIE BLADE BUSHMANSpecifications:Weight: 9.8 oz.Blade Thickness: 3/32" (2.5mm)Blade Length: 7"Handle: HollowSteel: SK-5 High CarbonOverall Length: 12 1/4"Sheath: Cordura$29.99
Topic by i make shooting things | last reply
Hi, recently I have been looking into getting a new EDC knife. I have a few cheap ones however they ain't holding up. These are the specs I'm looking for: Blade length: no more than 3.5 inchess Grind: flat ground no serrations and under 150 bucks. Here are a few i found give your thought any other suggestions are welcome. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Spyderco-Delica4-Knife/1267760.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath;=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dspyderco%26x%3D0%26y%3D0%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt;=spyderco&WTz;_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products http://www.cabelas.com/product/SOG-Flash-II-Knife/1219565.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath;=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DSog%26x%3D0%26y%3D0%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt;=Sog&WTz;_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products
Question by knifecollector | last reply
Hi im planning on making a knife as soon as i get all my materials together and the time to actually make it. while there are a number of great instructables on knife making i was wondering if anyone knew the best way to colour the blade ? i want a matte black finish on the blade with as little light reflection as possible ive attached a picture of a knife with the same finish as what i want. (obviously i dont want a kitchen knife though lol) any ideas will be aprecitated. Thanks ! curious youth
Question by curious youth | last reply
For Christmas this year I got this rather terrific spoon knife but this poor little fellow has no holder of his own and has to sleep in bubble-wrap every night to avoid accidentally cutting people. So if anyone has any ideas how I can make (ideally)/ or where I can buy a holder for it, I would be most appreciative!
Question by roblin90 | last reply
I found some more metal and decided to make a third Baby Bear knife. Thanks to Alan Folts for the original design. He sells these now and I did not like the price, so I decided to make my own. Here is a picture of the semi-finished knife. It has curly(flame) maple handles that I found in the wood pile. I would like to make a Kydex sheath for it, but have not found a source that will let me buy a few or one sheet at a good price. Still looking. Anyone know of a good source please let me know. I only need a few sheets to start with. Carbon graphite looks cool.
Topic by triumphman | last reply
Hello Everyone, I'm new to this forum and I have made something I wanted to share and get some feedback. This is "Art Knife" I used a method I invented to etch hardened glass with colored images and made some into what I think is a pretty cool knife. The glass is held in place on a nice Damascus blade with a Sterling Silver frame. The etching can be of any subject, I chose the animals because they look nice but I could have put a portrait or other designs on my knife. I also want to use this technique for other fine items like memorials, awards, etc. The etching never wears because it's covered in a layer of Pyrex glass by baking it in a kiln. What do you think of this idea? Any feedback greatly appreciated! Cheers, John
Topic by John Pedini | last reply
Back when my dad was in the Navy, he got an Edgco Buttlerfly knife in Afganistan. He gave it to me a while back. I decided to sharpen it so I could actually use it. It's not getting sharp no matter how long I scrape it on the whetstone. I can't take it to someone to get it sharpened because they're illegal in my state.
Question by General Eggs | last reply
Hey Everybody! I've been looking around and I've found many people who have made knives out of hacksaw blades, but I was wondering if it could be done with a Sawzall blade too. If I used a woodcutting Sawzall blade, then the knife could probably go through a limb of a tree faster, and then I could sharpen up the other non-cutting side, and add a handle of some sort, maybe out of paracord or Sugru. Add a Kydex sheath, and its pure DIY-ed. What do you all think? Would the Sawzall blade be sharp enough to cut a piece of wood with your arm (as opposed to the rpm of a Sawzall motor)? Would the Sawzall blade take an edge on the back? Would this be worth my time? Thank you!!!
Topic by DELETED_DELETED_basementhacker | last reply
Hi everyone, i got this idea while fishing, and couldn't open my pliers with one hand(i was holding a kinda big pike in the other one). what if you could just flip it open like a butterfly knife? but i dont know how i could loosen those rivets.... so that's why i need some help. Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/9JxPi
Question by rallekralle | last reply
My brother just gave me this knife for my B'day. i would like to know where its from. The markings are very worn. It says on the right side of the blade "MO or MC-----" and more, but unreadable. The left says " P----", also unreadable. Here is a picture of both sides too. It looks like a Gurhka style knife. Its 14.5 " OA and the blade is 9.75 ". Blade is 1/4 " thick. It has a full tang handle too. I thought it was a bayonet but it has no rifle barrel hole on top nor does it have any attachment point. Any help identifying this knife will be deeply appreciated! Thanks, Triumphman
Question by triumphman | last reply
So, I am looking a cool knives on dealextreme, and I was wondering, which is the best?links:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18076http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6198http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7011http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11620
Question by Flumpkins | last reply
On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
This is a design I came up with and drew (i guess is the term) into sketch up. The Wings swivel up (shown in second Set of pics). This took about 10-15 hrs of drawing and about 2 hrs of rendering. The wings swivel to maneuver and when landing inside atmosphere. I haven't added weaponry and such so it's still a WIP. But suggestions are welcomed. Tech Specs: - Engines: 10 engines (4 small large) -Take Off type: VTOL - Class: Frigate - Operation zone: Space/ Atmosphere And for you sketch Up and rendering junkies... used 40 passes in each render.
Topic by ry25920 | last reply
I want to make an all titanium balisong.
Question by bowmaster | last reply
I just forged a brand new knife (my first time) and i was wondering how to remove small surface marks and imperfections? Ive never worked with metal before.
Question by trf | last reply