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LCD loosing backlight.

My backlights fail only when I input a viveo source of any kind. If I power up in RGB with a composite video source pluged in its fine until I switch the source to composite(video1). this is true for any source. they include S-video, RGB, composite, VGA and tuner. its run on 12V, pretty much Identical to a computer monitor except more inputs. thinking maybe the inverter, any other ideas will be helpful???

Topic by mool    |  last reply

Converting a Laptop LCD into a Lightbox

Hi everybody. I've salvaged the LCD screen from an old laptop (an ASUS F3J). I wanna try to convert it into a lightbox (something like this ). My biggest problem is: I only have the screen and the inverter (so if I'm lucky I only have to power the inverter to light up the backlight of the screen) but I don't know the voltage needed by the inverter or where I have to solder the power plug. I've found a tutorial but my inverter seem to miss the ground-vled-ledon-pwn copper pad for testing. Here is an image of my inverter . Does anybody know how I can reuse my inverter for powering on the backligh of the LCD screen? Can I bypass the inverter powering directly the screen? If possible I wanna avoid to buy or DIY a backlight tester because I only need to light up one screen, I really don't need a full functional LCD screen tester kit. Thanks in advance ^_^ PS: sorry for the bad english

Topic by FabrizioT    |  last reply

Bad inverter board on Samsung 214T?

I have a Samsung 214T that has the dreaded dark screen, I can see the image on the screen when shining a light into the screen. Was wondering if any one knows of other LCD monitors that have the same inverter board, so I can watch for one being sold with a cracked or bad screen.

Question by crs77385    |  last reply

LCD Swappems

Hello creative tech people, This is my first post so I hope I got it in the right section, and I did a lot of research before creating this post. I've been researching this for a bit, and I've gotten a sudden fascination with LCDs (mostly of the full color display variety) and I've been planning on making  custom tablet style PCs based on old laptops just for fun and experimentation but in my planning I hit a bit of a snag in regards to the screen. Since much to my dismay they weren't swappable and relied on a controller intertwined in the motherboard. There's also the inverter which I'm not sure how relevant it is to the project, This is a real issue for me because I wanted to use a variety of screens from big ones to tiny ones from smartphones or mp3 players. I was wondering three things: 1. Can you make a monitor connect to a different motherboard through the magic of soldering? 2. (if #1 is a yes) will the controller handle the different signal or does each one have a different driver format and all that aggravating frippery? 3. Would taking apart a standard vga flat screen monitor and using that instead of a laptop screen avoid the issue altogether? Or would it bring up new problems?

Topic by Lucern7    |  last reply

How to make a power supply for an LCD backlight?

I have a piece of crap LCD monitor that I tore apart to build a projector, and I've been intrigued by the backlight ever since... I was thinking it'd make a cool light for a workbench or a lightbox for tracing, but I have no idea how to power it. It came out of a Starlogic 17" monitor, model number M17ANA. I've got the inverter still attached to the backlight, I just have no idea what the pinout is. If anyone has any ideas they're welcome.

Question by RelaxedSoup    |  last reply


Tbd392nr lcd inverter

Question by yhdesai    |  last reply

LCD Monitor Repair

Congrats! Instead of throwing away your broken LCD monitor, you've decided to fix it. What do you have too loose by attempting the repair yourself? It's already heading for the trash can or the e-waste center. By repairing it you will probably save from $100 to $200 or more! If you have done any reading at all on the web, you have already discovered that bad capacitors account for a large percentage of all LCD monitor failures. If your monitor flickers when you start it up, the screen is dim, has strange lines on it, clicks, etc., then this information is just for you! The repair does not require any special knowledge or skill. About the only tools you will need are a putty knife, a screwdriver, a pair of pliers and a Radio Shack soldering iron. Without getting into too much technical jargon, there are two main components inside your monitor, the power board which powers the inverter (lights) and video, and the video board. The power supply circuit board must be removed before you can replace the capacitors. You must open your monitor and examine the capacitors on the power supply board. Each monitor will have a power supply circuit board. Each monitor model will have a slightly different board. They all look about the same. Some have more capacitors, some have less. Most all LCD monitors have a large 400v capacitor. These rarely go bad. There's a video at that shows you how to disassemble a Viewsonic monitor, and install new capacitors. This is a great video! There's also a good tutorial that shows how to completely disassemble a Samsung 204T LCD Monitor. It's a step by step guide, which also includes a "how to solder" video. Although this tutorial is for a Samsung 204T LCD monitor, the information found here can be applied to almost any monitor. Between the YouTube video on the Viewsonic monitor and the tutorial you should have no problem installing new capacitors in your LCD monitor. Good Luck!

Topic by sghill99  

Bad power board replacement? Answered

I have a BenQ FP731 monitor with a bad power board. I'm waiting for the spares to arrive so I can repair it, but is it possible to replace the entire board with this one? the only thing scaring me is that its got four of those little white connectors for the lamps, while mine has just two broad connectors with three wires each. I guess its for two lamps and a ground on both of them, while on the one that I just posted, its separate connector to each lamp..... Would It work if I hack the connection to the lamp and use the new board?

Question by pro2xy    |  last reply

how do i make a laptop inverter work?

hi i am wanting to be able to run a laptop inverter off a few batterys the inverter looks like the one in this instruclible i was wounderin what cables i would need to put power on ? i an not wanting the screen to work, just for the back light to glow, please help

Question by rug  

Externally Mounted LCD/LED TVs?

I was going to wrap my 1996 Fleetwood Seawind Motorhome and have sponsor spots.  However, I rather hang 55" LED/LCD TVs on both flanks of the beast. The issues as I see them are as follows: How to power the TVs--I think I can cable out the rear windows and run an inverter to provide them with AC--Please give me inverter size sufficient to drive two LCD/LED units Getting a TV signal to the TVS.  Using a Macbook Air, I could use Airplay to stream MP4 video to the TVs, or just hardwire them with HDMI-Lightening connectors.  A hardwire solution is, again, possible via the rear windows. The pivotal engineering riddle is ho to secure, insulate and protect the units on the back end of the vehicle.  I was thinking a sheet of Acetate to cover and protect the faces of the TVs. Input on what form the shock-absorbing, waterproof frame could/should take is welcome.

Question by BoydM1    |  last reply

powering my broken lcd tv

I have a busted lcd tv that the backlighting still works but i would like to get rid of stock power supply and input box. In essence make it into a light table. The plug that powers the inverter for the CFLs has 9 wires 5 red 4 black and is marked 24v. now here comes the crazy question can i wire in a 24v adapter with a simple on/off switch. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Topic by modzero556  

color code on a samsung LCD? Answered

I had this old laptop wich had a burned out motherboard, so i took it apart for parts. obviously, the LCD screen caught my eye. this thing has 1 connector, with  bout 40 pins. 5 wires are going to the inverter (i guess taht's it at least) and the rest goes to a circuitry on the back of the LCD. now, there are 15 wires (D-sub standard right?) going to the LCD, and i would love to know how to wire them, that is, what wire takes what voltage, data, or whatever it needs. btw, the connector to the circuitry has 20 pins, dunno what that means (multiple ground lines?) the only chip on the circuitry is labeled: LXD91810                                                           VS246AB note, the 6 could also be an 8, some genius used a permanent marker to write a 3 over it, wich makes i very hard to read... is there any site online that is about these kind of mods? i was looking but couldnt find any... i have included pictures of what i think is important, please ask if theyr either unclear, you need anything else or whatever :P any info is welcome and greatly apreciated!

Question by godofal    |  last reply

how to wire lcd screen to video and power?

There are all kinds of lcd screens used for projectors but NONE give you the details of how to connect the video signals and power to the lcd screen (inverter)  Maybe I'm not smart enough!!

Question by windsorbug    |  last reply

Samsung lcd bad cap problems

Hey guys, recently I scored a Samsung 943nw monitor from my friend who says it's broken. So i thought, why not try repair it? Upon opening the lcd monitor up, I can see that the caps were bulging, samwha brand. The infected caps were three 25v 820µF and two 10v 1000µF. I went and sourced the caps from a couple of devices (a modem, and a power supply) When I turned the lcd on, the led was blinking. After the repair(with my crappy soldering skills), the monitor turned on, but not the backlight. I figured that the cc backlight inverter was spoiled. Then, after a probing at the components, I reset the monitor in hopes that the inverter would work. Instead, now the monitor showed no signs of life. Probing again showed that the 5v rail was 8.45v and 15v rail was 4.5v and 3.3v was ov. I still can't find the problem after hours of searching. (and a fatal electrocution from the mains input cap). Could it be my bad soldering, parts or some transistor problem? DId I also accidentally fry the image processing module?

Topic by Phoenix Tech    |  last reply

Laptop LCD Cold Cathode re-use

So recently, an old laptop of mine died. It was an old dinosaur of a laptop, slowly running down the remaining years of its life. Then it died. So sad. To honor its death I dismantled it. I got an interesting motherboard, some decent speakers, a 5gb harddrive along with a floppy and disk drive. What really interested me the most though is the LCD screen. At first I hoped that I could re-used the screen as a tertiary screen for my desktop, but later I realized the near-impossibility of this task and gave it up. Instead I chose to take the screen apart for its cold cathode lamp. It's almost 12 inches in length, and very thin. Before the motherboard died, the LCD back light was still working. So I wanted to take it out, along with its inverter, to attempt to re-use it. Soon after doing this I saw a problem in my plans: the input of the inverter is a whopping nine wires. This is a bit more than I'm used to dealing with for power supplies. I was wondering if you guys knew any way that I could go around this? At request I can most more pictures and model number of the inverter in case you can't read it in the photo. tl;dr - Cold cathode inverter in picture. output is two wires, input 9 wires. How do I use this

Topic by Pixel_Master  

i have a tv that doesnt light the backlights, how should i go about fixing it?

Its a 40" Haier LCD TV, me and my dad picked it up at a disposal place, when we brought it home and tested it we figured the tv had some issues with th screen, we feared it might be like the 26" tv we got that just turns on and shuts off. luckily, it does not have such a issue, i checked and it is just the backlight that has a problem. and, from further investigation, it appears the ccfl's are not getting any power from the inverter board. the inverter is split into two parts it seems, there is a lrge inverter looking component on the power board which has two wires that connect to the board the ccfls connect to, which has numerous smaller inverters on it. a interesting discovery was that the to wires from the larger inverter piece get bridged when they reach the sub-board. im assuming its the board with several smaller inverters, because it is getting -12v of power, im not sure if thats normal but ive never seen a inverter setup like this before so its hard to tell. my camera battery is dead at the time of this post but i wil get pictures put up so people can see what im dealing with. the tv was made april 27th 2009. it has 8 CCFL's in it, which seems like a lot but im not exactly sure. so i was wondering what the most efficient way of repairing it would be: -replace possibly damaged inverter board with a new one -replace CCFL's with a LED light strip (im leaning toward this) -replace bad inverter board with a set of replacement inverters (8 in this case) what do you guys think?

Question by zack247    |  last reply

travelmate 2350 lcd backlight trouble

The lcd screen looses the backlight (inverter replaced) right afer boot-up (dos screen barely visible). If it is visible then only for a second or so and then with some magenta shade instead of black and white. Before replacing the entire lcd I'd like to rule out anything else that may cause this problem. The external video works fine. One other finding: When depressing the hybernation switch ever so slightly (without actually activating it) the lcd jumps back to live if only for a split second. Anybody have any ideas?

Topic by rgb    |  last reply

How do I make a power inverter for CCFL's? Answered

I want to know how to male a CCFL power inverter because i have a lcd screen backlight, but i never had the inverter for it. ho do i go about making one?

Question by zack247    |  last reply

Turn 17" LCD into a book reader

Hey all ! I was thinking to turn and 17 ich LCD into an E reader ...... it would be conected by cable to a laptop that how i would display images on the display i tough of making the power on battery but i have AC povered monitor with fried inverters il hook some led-s to fix the backlight ut i need to know how to make the power board to supply the LCD with battery power .... i kinda bable here so if annyone can help me or ask me to explain annything i wrote ^^

Topic by compufreek    |  last reply

Do i need to get back the exact same model when replacing laptop LCD screen?

Im using a LCD laptop screen thats glossy and its cracked(samsung LTN150XG-02). so im thinking of changing it to one with matte finish. i bought the new one,(samsung LTN150XG-01) but when i hooked everything up, it didnt work. does this have to do with the inverter? and what does the inverter actually do? (i fitted back my old screen and it works)

Question    |  last reply

Old LCD Backlight...What to do...

I have a typical CCFL-lit LCD backlight that I tore out of an ancient, dying laptop with an ancient, dying screen. The backlight is roughly 25.5cm x 19 cm (9 7/8" x 7 1/2") and about .5cm (1/4") thick. When around 18VDC is applied to the inverter, the whole rectangle lights up with a perfectly even, white, light. I've been trying to come up with something cool to do with it. So far, these ideas have included: -With a piece of protective plastic, a small lightbox for tracing or viewing negatives/slides -Mounted over a desk for a really cool lamp -Illuminated sign Does anyone have any brilliant ideas for what to build with this? A project worthy of the geekiness or the materials?

Topic by CameronSS    |  last reply

How to buy LCD panels, inverters, and driver boards for a product/project I would like to build in bulk?

Thanks in advance for your help! I am trying to create my own kiosk style unit using the raspberry pi. For demonstration purposes it is basically a mame cabinet with some buttons an lcd... I want to be able to manufacture my product/project myself and sell it for a low price so I thought that a good way to do this is to use lcd panels with driver boards for only hdmi or composite. Does anyone know where I can look to buy 50 lcd panels for a cheap price with the backlight and driver boards included? Feel free to ask follow up questions. thanks!  :) Summary: Where can I buy Wholesale LCD

Question by undftdking    |  last reply

CCFL tubes...what is the range of power they operate in ?

I see write-ups aplenty of how to fix screen backlights and re-using CCFLs from scanners and such, and ALL say 'beware high voltage !'. NONE, however, specify what those voltages/currents/frequencies may actually BE ???! Several times I have been offered LCD monitors with obvious backlight problems and have only gotten one to work by replacing bad caps. This all makes me wonder - could it be that the ballast from a dead, smallish CFL might power a CCFL quite nicely - does anyone know ?! Thanks for any replies ! PS: Please, no lectures about the dangers of high voltages and so forth, this question is being asked by an adult who is safety conscious.

Question by vtsnaab    |  last reply

what to do with 2 15" LCD monitors with a bad backlight?

The inverters are no good so reparing and selling is out of the question. so is using them, i already have a new one for my desktop and multiple monitors never work out for me. my laptop could possibly have another monitor hooked up to it but i still cant replace the inverters. it would be too expensive to fix either, (one has a bad inverter and the other has a whole bad power board) i can power up one, a Samsung SyncMaster 740N, it has no backlight, and repairing it would cost too much. i can also power up the other one, an Acer AL1706, without using the power board, but a PC power supply. the LCDs are ok as far as i can tell without backlights (ive had them both hooked up to my laptop to test them), so what can i do with these two monitors? i have no clue what to do with them, i need some inspiration. PS: one of my friends suggested i use the acer one, with a LED backlight, in my car in conjunction with a PC, when i get my car, that is.

Question by zack247    |  last reply

Will a computer power supply run efficiently on a 12V power inverter? Answered

I am planning to buy a modified sinewave inverter just to power some basic stuffs from a car, but one of my main problem is that i want to power 2 sensitive devices on the inverter. I have a 450W computer powersupply Will it run smoothly or will make hissing noise or will get fried after minutes of use same goes with a 19" inch LCD screen some help here would be  much appreciated thanks

Question by ARJOON    |  last reply

How do I just power the backlighting on a broken lcd tv?

I have a busted lcd tv that the backlighting still works but i would like to get rid of stock power supply and input box. In essence make it into a light table. The plug that powers the inverter for the CFLs has 9 wires 5 red 4 black and is marked 24v. now here comes the crazy question can i wire in a 24v adapter with a simple on/off switch. Any help will be greatly appreciated. 

Question by modzero556    |  last reply

Voltage regulator for laptop

Hi there. I have a problem for which I'd like some opinions: I have a PB laptop which has fried its inverter for the LCD due to the input voltage towards the inverter being too high (19v while it should be 12v and can only endure upto 13v). Most PB models have this problem. I looked around and some people suggest making a voltage regulator with a 7812 and some capacitors that gets its power directly from the input of the power adapter on the laptop (19v, 6+ amps). But since I am not really that into electronics, I have no idea if this will work, especially towards the heat that comes with the 7812, will it be high? The inverter needs around 0.5 amps input current. Others suggest a setup with (zener) diodes, but I have no clue how to start on that. Anybody have a suggestion? Many thanks.

Topic by .conne.  

How do I get my LCD monitor to run on 12V?

My LCD computer monitor normally runs on 240v (Australia) but it was running during a power “brown out”, so is it maybe passable to run it from 12v without opening it (Imeen power it via its mains power cable)? Or would a standard inverter work? And what kind would I need? Power info from back 100-240v~ 1.2A

Question by BlueSuneLIght    |  last reply

HP Pavilion DV2615nr LCD intermittently flickers and sometimes goes black-what do I replace first? Answered

I have an HP DV2615nr laptop that is about 2 yrs old. Over the last 3-4 months the LCD will flicker or go black at times. If I open and close the lid several times and get it open to 'just the right spot', it will come on and stay on...sometimes it just flickers constantly....sometimes it stays black. I am trying to determine if it is the backlight, the inverter or the LCD? Any ideas on trouble shooting this before I purchase parts? After querying this on the web, it does seem to be a standard problem on HP Pavilion laptops :( Thanks in advance for your help!?

Question by Boopsie1212    |  last reply

Things to do with LCD backlight guide plate and polarisation films?

I received about 15 damaged laptop screens and took them apart to get the CCFLs and inverters which I'll combine into a modest spotlight for video recording. From each laptop I also gained some films and the light guide panel. I believe one of the films from each is just a simple diffuser whilst the other two appear to also be blurry polarisers. Finally, each screen has an acrylic light guide which refracts the light 90° and does so evenly by having some kind of bumps or dots spaced out according to the "diffusion equation" so there are more further away from the source of light (which comes from the side).  Any ideas for what I might use these films and plates? I do have a lamp project for which I can use the diffusion film but the polarising films would probably absorb too much of the light.

Topic by THX 1138    |  last reply

Reusing desktop and laptop monitor CCFLs and power supplies to make a floodlight

I'm using a collection of broken laptop and desktop monitors I got free from a repair workshop to assemble a floodlight/spotlight from the CCFLs and their inverters. The desktop monitor power supplies take mains voltage (240 V) and power the CCFLs but also seem to provide a 5 V and 12 V supply to the electronics that control the LCD. The laptop inverters themselves accept either 5 V in some cases or 12 V in others so naturally I want to run the laptop inverters off the 12 V and 5 V supply because otherwise it's wasted. The problem is that I don't know how much power I can draw from the 5 V and 12 V of the power supply. I've had a look at the back of a monitor that says it draws 0.7 A at 240 V. What translates to 168 W which is more than I was expecting. Assuming that the four built-in CCFLs use 8 W each, that would still leave 136 W. Assuming the power supply is only 60% efficient that leaves (168 W x 60%) - (4 x 8 W) = ~68 W. I've no way to tell how that's distributed across the 12 V and 5 V but if it's 34 W each then I can draw 2.8 A from 12 V and 6.8 A from 5 V? I figure I can probably, maybe attach eight laptop inverters to each desktop PSU (four on 12 V (1.6 A) and four on 5 V (4 A)?

Topic by THX 1138  

Electronic help required - independently powering a CCFL

Hi, a friend of mine recently had a problem with a laptop where the screen went dim. I tried the obvious, screen settings (it didn't have a monitor swith-off button :S ) and reset the bios with no luck, so I thought that the problem was probably related to either the cable, the inverter or the backlight. I tried a new lcd screen with a known-working backlight and it failed to work. I also purchased a new cable and a new inverter but the backlight still failed to turn on. This now points me in the direction of a motherboard problem. I am going to take a multimeter and test the voltages going from the inverter and to the inverter. If these appear to be correct, is there any way that I can get the backlight to turn on? If the voltages are correct I would assume it's something to do with the light control and stuff, and wonder if I was to say, disconnect all the wires from the inverter but dc supply and ground (and I think there is a connection to the oscillator?), would it work? If there is no voltage going to the inverter, does anyone know how I could power the backlight independently? I would imagine it would take some sort of power regulator and maybe a separate inverter? Thanks

Topic by MoonDemon    |  last reply

How can I (electronically) prevent an LCD monitor from going into standby mode due to lack of a video input signal?

I have a dead LCD i want to turn into an artists light table. Q:   How can I prevent the monitor from going into standby due to no input signal? In other words, I want to make the backlighting remain on without connection to a computer.  It is a HP 24" widescreen that is able to be turned, tilted, and rotated in every direction over a wide range.  For this reason (and because I don't feel like building another box) I would like to use the existing enclosure and I have already disassembled and removed the actual LCD screen, leaving just the backlighting components. I am fairly well versed in electronics and I have tested points on the circuit boards in attempt to determine what input the circuit requires to NOT enter standby. There is a wiring harness from the LCD driver board to the inverter board with 14 wires which oddly enough, is actually labeled!  One terminal is labeled 'on/off' which I'm assuming would refer to the standby feature. This terminal measures +3.2v when the backlighting is on (not in suspend) and 0v when off (standby). I tried to jumper this to a spot on the board that is also 3.2 during standby to no avail. Can anybody help??? Thanks!

Question by clint taurus    |  last reply

Can I use a LCD controller to control a mobile display?

I wish to build a small 1080p monitor, and the smallest regular LCD display I could find was around 10" and not HD, so I've been looking at mobile displays. I don't know much on the subject, but I am willing to learn and work to get what I want.  A mobile display that suits my needs is the HTC One display, it has a resolution of 1920x1080 and is not OLED (I may wish to replace the backlighting). It is available on spare part sites, and on eBay (though with the touchscreen digitizer included):;=item35ce64a0a9 Would I be able to control this display with a regular LCD controller, such as this one?;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT With full HDMI/DVI and function support? Maybe I'm mistaken, but as long as the voltages match... Right? Unfortunately, the display description on these websites is completely lacking in details, so it's been difficult to get any tech specs. I've been googling this a lot, but with few results. It seems a problem could be the interface: there aren't enough pins on the HTC One display (of course, it doesn't HAVE to be this particular display, it just has to be small, cheap and HD). I managed to find something about MIPI interfaces, could this be a problem if it's proprietary? Are there adapters? And would I need an inverter if this setup even works? Thank you in advance.

Question by build_0    |  last reply

Freebies from the local dump

Well guys, I was tired of being told by different friends of mine that there's lots of goodies to be found sometimes out at my local dump, including a shed FULL of crts, some still in the bag I'm told. I finally got the motivation to make it out there, I had to ask the attendant where to find the computer stuff as the only shed I found had some furniture and old electronics (I was tempted to take this OLD ibm scanner, looked like it was right outta the 80's). She pointed me over to a pile of computer towers, satellite receivers (a scary amount of receivers) and some other crap, all in the sNOW!!! I was a little disgruntled to see it all in the snow there, as there was A LOT of towers. Aside from finding a working 16 port rack mount ethernet switch, a good handful of cpus I removed from some towers, and some PC133 ram (not useful to most, but it has a better use than SODIMM ram ever will these days). One of the first things I seen was an lcd monitor sitting upside down in the snow bank, I ran over to it like it was an abandoned baby in the snow. It didn't look like it had seen the snow too long, so I picked it up and tossed it in the car thinking at the most it would make a nice laptop stand out of the folding base on it. Well upon getting it home, drying it with a towel and letting it warm up to room temperature, I plugged it in and was very EXCITED to see "no signal" faintly on the screen, the backlight was shot.... I got my thinkpad out and hooked it up to see if the entire screen worked and that it wasn't cracked or something, sure enough, the whole screen lit up with the desktop for a second, then off. Frustrated, I simply kept turning the video output of my laptop on and off, and just from cycling it on and off, I got the backlight tubes to kick to life!!! I moved it to my desktop and got rid of my 19 inch crt, so I had room for this 19 inch lcd :P Later I noticed a bit of water in the screen so I shut it off, however when I went to use it later, the image would only flash on for a split second, then off again, then back on, and so on. I dissembled it today and can't find a single cap on the board that's blown (visually), and the only discoloration of the pcb is on the bottom, beneath a transformer, so I figure it's probably an okay amount of discoloration as a transformer will often make enough heat to do so. I plugged it in, and begun turning it on with only certain backlight tubes plugged in (theres 4 cables so I have to assume 4 tubes, one on each side of the screen, I also just found out you shouldn't let the unplugged leads too close to the socket on the PCB, it WILL ARC, the high voltage label etched into the pcb means business.) It would make some high pitched whining noises, the lcd would be doing it's flickering thing, sometimes the image would come up garbled, and then shortly after it started going garbled, it would kick on and stop making the high pitched noises, so I moved it back onto my desk still dissembled, and upon leaving the room long enough for the lcd to shut off, I came back to the same problem, and had to fiddle with it again to get it turned on (I'm using it right now :) What is it that makes these lcd's do this?, I know most problems with lcds are from the power inverter, and also when the backlights burn out (Hell only one could work for all I care, this thing is so bright it hurts the eyes). This is a 19" viewsonic lcd, and I did do some googling, one person noted for a similar model he tried replacing all 8 caps on the board (We have diff boards, but he said to replace all of them to be sure), he then said he was going to try replacing one of the mosfets, and that he would let us know how it went, still hasn't replied yet. I feel bad for posting this without pictures, but I don't have any good batteries around the house for my digital camera, I plan to get some pictures by the end of the day, but until then, perhaps you guys can tell me what it is you would like to see/need to see to help me figure this out. A free LCD guys, and it turns on to a usable state, so I KNOW it's worth fixing, sorry if I seem flabbergasted or something like I'm off my cradle, but an upgrade to LCD is awesome for me, I'm so used to using my crt's and I'm finding the crispness of the image very nice to look at.

Topic by Punkguyta  

how can I turn an old laptop monitor into a usable stand alone display?

I recently disassembled an old ibm thinkpad 380E laptop i had laying around. I have the guts and all that including the wire harness's and power inverter. The screen model is a Hitachi SX31S004 or ibm P/n 12J0130. I want to use the lcd by itself without having to get the laptop running as I have removed it from the case and have the board sitting in a drawer. I suppose I could reassemble the thing but I dont want to use all that. I would like to find the pinouts for the lcd but they have proven very hard to find. IF anyone can point in the right direction that would be tops. then maybe I can build something and make and instructable too

Question by SketchBoard    |  last reply

Fight Simulator

I just had a great Idea last night. Okay, I think we've all seen those $250,000 homemade flight simulators built by people with just a wee bit too much time on their hands (like anyone who goes on instructables). One of the main reasons these are expensive, other than the computer themselves, is the fact that there are multiple LCD screens surrounding the pilot. These things cost a few pretty pennies, so this is where my idea comes in. The first thing you would need to do, would be to arrange some semi-opaque plastic panels where you would usually have the LCD displays. They need to be opaque enough that you can't see through them, but clear enough to let a good bit of light through. In other words, they need to be translucent, not transparent. The second thing would be computer software. It needs to be able to totally invert your desktop display. You could do this with hardware, but it would be a waste of time and materials. Connected to your computer would be a digital projector, which is where all of the magic of this project comes together. You run the projector through a prism (what kind, anyone?), to slightly warp the projected image. You need this warpage (is that a word?), to counteract the different angles of the plastic panels. The projector is set up in front of the "cockpit," projecting its inverted, warped image at it. You can see the images on the inside, because you chose the correct opacity, right? The hope behind this idea, is that it is much cheaper to have 1 digital projector, than it is to have multiple LCDs. Thanks! MDJ

Topic by mdj817    |  last reply

iMac G5 external monitor

Hi there! I'm currently working on a project, and I really need some help from you guys. What I'm basically trying to do is putting a Raspberry Pi with Retropie installed into a iMac G5 case (24'') and use it as a Retro-Gaming-Machine. Things I already have: - iMac G5 24inch - Raspberry Pi Model B+ with RetroPie installed - 2 SNES Controller with an Adapter to USB - Cables and stuff And now to my problem: I want to use the iMac's LCD panel (Product number: LM240WU2), which of course requires an inverter as well as a controller board. The inverter is stuck to the panel, and can be used I think. But the controller board seems to be integrated into the Logic Board, so I can't use it. I already found a suiting controller on AliExpress, but unfortunately it's not available. So I'm kind of running out of options where to get one. Does anybody know where to get a working controller? It shouldn't be too expensive, because otherwise I could just buy a 17'' or 20'' iMac G5 and use it, because these are built a bit differently and work just over DVI. I would love to make a Instructable out of the project, in case I'm able to solve that Problem! Thanks, Nick

Topic by SaiyajinNick    |  last reply

Help with AVR servo controller

I have a bunch of ATtiny 2313's, an arduino, and plenty of resistors, other ICs etc. I want someone to help me program and build a ATtiny 2313 based servo controller, that must work from a single, inverting input (each direction moves the servo to the right or left, only needs about 90 degrees of movement, so 45 in each direction). I don't have a programmer, but apparently you can program them from arduinos, so you would also need to show me how to set up a breadboard and some code to program the servo controller code to the ATtiny. If someone could help it would be great, its for a project but I have never done anything with AVRs before and I have only used my arduino a few times to make LCD drivers etc.

Topic by andy70707  

This arduino code does not work as expected, any help? there seems to be an issue with the digitalWrite function. Answered

Recently, I wanted to make a laboratory grade linear semi-precision power supply using an Arduino, LCD, some comparators, and MOSFETs. Idealistically, I want measurements to be 3 significant figures of precision (0.1% accuracy @ 30V), voltages as high as 30V, and max current of 10A. The power supply is most likely going to be just a single regulated output, maybe if I feel lucky I will make 2 regulated outputs once I get the darn Arduino code to work. The Arduino's job is to simply set and read the output voltage, and is not part of the control loop. That is what the comparators are for. (I learned the hard way that using the Arduino within the control loop just results in parasitic oscillations because the Arduino is a clocked device and can only self correct at timed intervals.) Anyway, below is the code. I made explanations of all portions of it as clear as possible, and I also give the wiring used for the LCD, 4 buttons, and analog inputs used to set and read the voltage and current. However, the issue arises when I upload the code, the setVI button does not work unless I press both it and the RS button at same time. I made the many of the integers display in the serial output to diagnosing easier hopefully. I can see the setVI integer and my dudd integer only goes HIGH when  either it and the RS buttons are pressed simultaneously, or when the RS butten is held down for a long enough time. However, as far as I am aware, nowhere in the code do I manipulate that code so setVI goes HIGH dependant on other buttons, so I am bewildered by this parasitic phenomenon. Is my Arduino MEGA broken? I had a similar problem in the past, where I had multiple analogRead statements It strangely seemed to factor in the outputs of other input pins. Anyway, here is the code. Maybe someone could upload it and tell me if it functions properly on their arduino? That would help me determine if it is indeed a software issue. (p.s. I use an Arduino ripoff called the Funduino, but it is not broken in any way, I don't think?) Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance, -Max-. p.s. To make the code below legible, please copy/paste it in an IDE or in notepad and convert it into a monospaced font, it will make it very easy to follow. //---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------// /* Arduino Software for lab power supply. Wireing guide:        **Wiring for 16x2 LCD:**       * LCD RS pin to digital pin 12       * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 11       * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 5       * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 4       * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 3       * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 2       * LCD R/W pin to ground       * 10K resistor:       * ends to +5V and ground       * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3)    **Wiring for buttons:**       * RS       button to pin 6  (as a digital input) -- Switches from reading read current/voltage values to setting those values, and Vice Versa.       * VIselect button to pin 7 (as a digital input) -- Switches to the 'set' mode and flips from setting the voltage to setting the current.       * UP       button to pin 8  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.       * DOWN     button to pin 9  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.    **Analog inputs/outputs:**       *A0   -- Measures a potential of a resistor divider that can output a voltage of 0-5V based on the 0-30V output this PSW capable of.       *A1   -- Measures the current flow through a resistor to measure current. (Some reason there seems to be a pulldown resistor on this pin, so the voltage does not float.)       *Vout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits)       *Aout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits) */ int UP    = 0;      // These are the 2 buttons used to incrementally int DOWN  = 0;      // step up or down the voltage on the output int RS = 0;         // These 2 buttons tell the LCD to either read out the voltage on the analog pins. (I plan to change this so it reads from a 14 bit ADC and writes int setVI = 0;      // the voltage output through a 14 (or 16 bit) bit ADC. I need 3 significant digits, or at least 0.1% accuracy. int dudd = 0;       // this dudd (dummy variable) is just here to prove that digitaslreading pin 7 works very weird! Any help on this? int preRS = 1;      // Anything with a "Pre" before it is simply what said integer/variable on the last loop. I use these to prevent a parasitic int presetVI = 1;   // oscillation of states that they control, so when a button is pressed, it will not jump between 2 states every cycle. int preUP    = 0; int preDOWN  = 0; float Aset = 0.00;  // I need these to be "floated" so I can set the exact value of these to 3 significant digits. float Vset = 0.00;  // Aset and Vset define what the output voltage *should* be, and are defined with the UP/DOWN buttons. int VIselection = 1;// this variable will invert when Aset button is pressed. Similar to the IVselect, this number will also invert int READorSET = 1;  // Bset button is pressed. This allows the mode to be changed from SET mode or the READ output mode, thus allowing                     // one to compare the output voltage and current to the set value, as well as set the output voltage and current. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins void setup() { //-------------------------// I tried making diagnosting this thing easier by making all the important data availible in the serial monitor.   lcd.begin(16, 2);   Serial.begin(9600);   Serial.print("INPUTS         RS:           READorSET:       setVI & dudd:        VIselection:");   Serial.println(""); } void loop() {   float V = (30.00*analogRead(A0))/1024.00;   //These are what I use to read the voltage output of my power supply. I will have a voltage divider on the output,   float A = (15.000*analogRead(A1))/1024.000; //to limit the voltage range from 0-30V to 0-5V. Same concept goes for the current measurement.   int dudd  = digitalRead(7);//   RS    = digitalRead(6);//RS stands for "Read/set"   setVI = digitalRead(7);//VI is stands for "Current/Voltage set"   UP    = digitalRead(8);//UP is simply a button used to set voltage & current   DOWN  = digitalRead(9);//DOWN is simply a button used to set voltage & current     if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH){VIselection = -VIselection;}   if(preRS    == LOW && RS    == HIGH){READorSET   =   -READorSET;}     Serial.print("\t        ");  // prints an inital space.     Serial.print(RS);            // prints the RS reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(READorSET);     // prints the READorSET reading. This should only change when the RS button is pressed.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(setVI);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t");     Serial.print(dudd);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.println(VIselection); // prints the VIselection reading. This should only change when the setVI button is pressed.         //if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH && READorSET == 1) {READorSET = -READorSET; VIselect = -VIselect;}      // This line of code just makes so that when I need to go from the voltage read screen to      // the set mode, I can just press the VIselect button. It just makes things more intuitive, but could be      // causeing the error, so I nulled it. I also nulled it out another portion that will keep the voltage or      // current setting the same when using the VI buttton to select the set mode. (otherwise it has to be      // double pressed to return to, say, the current setting, if that is where you left off.)   if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset <= 10.00) {Aset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset >= 0.10) {Aset -= 0.05;}}     if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset <= 30.00) {Vset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset >= 0.05) {Vset -= 0.05;}}     if (RS == HIGH){digitalWrite(13, 1);}   if (RS == LOW){digitalWrite(13, 0);} //============================================================================================================//   if (READorSET == 1){      //this is the defualt screen, and shows the output voltage and current.     lcd.clear();              lcd.setCursor(0, 0);     lcd.print("VOLTAGE:");     lcd.setCursor(0, 1);     lcd.print("CURRENT:");     lcd.setCursor(10, 0);     lcd.print(V);     lcd.setCursor(15, 0);     lcd.print("V");     lcd.setCursor(10, 1);     lcd.print(A);     lcd.setCursor(15, 1);     lcd.print("A");   }   if (READorSET == -1){   // This is the portion of the code allowing me to set the current and voltage     lcd.clear();          // using the up/down buttons.       if (VIselection == -1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET CURRENT:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Aset);         lcd.print("A ");       }       if(VIselection == 1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET VOLTAGE:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Vset);         lcd.print("V ");       }   } //============================================================================================================//   presetVI = setVI; // At the end of each loop, the current variable settings that were used are set equal   preRS = RS;       // to the 'pre' versions of the code. This allows me to basically measure the when                     // the button is initially pressed, and/or released. Using this method with the delay()                     // function, however, is a bit buggy, but I did have it working well enough before. If you                     // tap the button too quickly. You almost have to hold it for a split second. If you                     // know a better, simpler way of doing this, please tell me, thank you.                       delay(80);        // The delay helps stabilize the reading on the LCD, but if it is too large, than the                     // refresh rate suffers, and the buttons respond slower. However, setting too low will                     // cause the reading on the display to change so rapidly, it is illegible. }

Question by -max-    |  last reply

How to make a mains power AC voltage meter for input as an MCU sensor?

Hi, I live off grid and need to keep an eye on various properties from various power sources. This includes, VDC 12-24 from the solar panels, VAC 220 from the fallback generator. VAC 220 from the inverter into the house. I can find off the shelf sensors for the AMPS which can feed into various MCUs I can find circuits to build sensors for AMPS, not a problem. What I cannot find is either off the shelf VOLTS level indicator sensors or circuits that do not involve plugging in walt-warts to bring the voltage down. Space is a premium so ideally I wanted to plug a live and neutral wire into one end of a pcb and have hopefully an analog 0-5 VDC representation coming out of the other. I have in my box some small 6, 9 and 12 unregulated mains VAC transformers. I find it strange that I can buy from China a small LCD with Volts, Amps, Watts and Hertz for about 8€ but not a barebones system which is what I need. So if anyone knows how to either hack one of these Chinese meters to give MCU usable input data or can help me build a meter, I would be very grateful. My son-in-law is an electrician but electronics is alien to him. So he can oversee the safety on big stuff. Thanks and kind regards, jB

Question by britesc    |  last reply