Search for Leather works in Topics


Painting on leather

We'll I am about to make an instructable on painting and sewing with a leather jacket, my problem is I went to the art store and they did not have acrylic based paint markers, they only had oil based, the worker said that oil based would work fine but I am skeptical, Will oil based pain tmarkers work on leather?

Topic by astrozombies138    |  last reply


Leather pattern

Please I need an urgent help on how to make the weaved pattern in the image below

Topic by sickon01    |  last reply


looking for leather embelishments?

I am making cuff bracelets, where you wrap the leather or suede around the raw brass cuff.  however, before wrapping the leather, i sew on embelishments.  I have been unsuccessful in finding such large embelishments.  Conchos won't work because the metal on the bottom won't stick to the brass cuff.  any suggestions for website to check out?  i have been hitting dead ends for over a month.

Question by azbijou    |  last reply


What kind of leather projects are you interested in seeing Instructables for?

I am new to this site, but I have been working with leather for a little while and I have over 200 projects done. I have also done work with metal fabrication (custom BBQ pits), foam sculpting, engraving, sand blasting, stained glass, and whatever else I can get my hands on. I am by no means an expert, but I am better at some things than I am at others. Is there anything in particular you would like to see instructions for or do you just want me to shoot from the hip?

Topic by tony.fantasia    |  last reply


i need a tutorial on how to decorate the surface of leather?

I have tried working in leather a few times, and i would like to know how to make shapes and patterns on the leather using water and different tools, however not by cutting/carving the leather.

Question by shalow    |  last reply


I can't find websites that teach you how ot make things with leather.... anyone know of one?

I have been searching online for about an hour and I can't find a website that will teach you the basics of leather working, and how to make things outta leather. All I'm finding are leather suppliers, online stores to buy leather and leather items, and I don't need any of that. So if anyone knows of a website that shows you how to's and stuff with leather, please let me know!

Topic by Fendermage435    |  last reply


Fake Human Skin

Hi, Can anyone tell me how to affordably make realistic looking human skin from leather? I'm looking to bind a book with it and, if the method works out, adapt it later into making the outer layer for a peeled man "greys anatomy" book cover type body suit for halloween.

Topic by Eirias    |  last reply


Smelly Watchband?

I just purchased a very nice swiss wenger millitary watch that has a genuine leather watchband on it.  I wear it all the time, even when i work out and the leather has absorbed quite a lot of sweat and now reeks.  I've tried saddle soap and leather cleaner and they both dont get rid of the horrid smell. help?

Question by bobert610    |  last reply


When should I shape leather for a mask? Answered

I'm working on a steampunk gas mask out of leather currently, but I have some questions. My design is made out of five pieces so It will fit around my face, but I don't know when to shape it. Should I sew the pieces together then soak it and shape it around my whole face or is it better to shape each piece individually then sew them together? I'm punching holes in the leather then hand-sewing it with a leather needle and waxed thread. Any help is appreciated greatly. Thanks, Noah

Question by noahh    |  last reply


What type of rubber will glue to acrylic and not smell bad?

I would like to glue rubber to acrylic (and leather/cloth potentially). Neoprene worked perfectly, but the smell is horrible. Is there another type of rubber that will easily glue to acrylic and not smell? Silicone maybe? Natural rubber? I have read that both of these also potentially smell, but clearly someone has figured out how to use these without the odor. (...and do you happen to know where to find sheets of this material?)

Question by ScottR226    |  last reply


how do i get air freshener oil out of a red leather purse (it leaked all over it)?

We had one of those plug in oil room fresheners from Bath and Body works. It tipped over one day while it was on the table and leaked all over my red leather purse. The oil didn't change the color but definately smells strong. I've tried cornstarch to absorb the oil but it doesn't work - it seems that the leather has completely absorbed the oil.

Question    |  last reply


Leather Spine on Plastic Coated Binding? Answered

Hi All. My name is Craig and I've been binding books for a while and come up with a problem today. I hade some pages ring-bound (You know, where they punch the paper with those square holes and hold them together with the plastic ring strip.) Anyways, there were too many pages, making the binding weak and so I decided to bind them. I've done this before by simply sowing together through all the bindng holes and then creating and attaching a cover like with a standard book. However, this time I was (1) lazy and didn't feel like going through all the effort to make a proper binding cover, (2) there was already a perfectly good front and back cover page which I wanted to keep anyway, and (3) I liked the look of the current binding (it has a clear plastic sheet ove the back page and front page) and want to keep the same look. Okay, now my problem is that when sowing together the pages I kept the plastic sheets over the front and back pages to maintain that gloss look. (It's those plastic A4 sheets that they normally place on the front page when plastic-ring binding - though I had one placed over the back too.) The pages are bound perfectly fine and sturdy but the sowing looks unsightly. I cut a piece of leather to place over the spine and overlapping onto the front and back page edges by about 1cm. The leather is very thin and has thin fabric-like mesh on the back lining it. I have no idea what to do to hold them together. At the moment I scrapped the plastic a bit with a needle to create a slightly rough surface to try help with the glue and am holding the bond down with a heavy weight. Though I highly doubt this will hold even if I let it dry. If this doesn't work I thought of maybe trying to use a hot glue gun and putting glue on the leather and then trying the same weight method again. I'm a little weary of using hot glue though as I don't want to ruin the pages as they were expensive to print and took so much time to print and bind. Does anyone have any ideas what I could try? P.S. Apologies that there are no pictures to show what I'm working with.

Question by CraigR46    |  last reply


Laser engraving on Leather - filling engraving with paint

I've just had two leather wristbands laser engraved with a custom graphic. Unfortunately, though the engraving is clear and crisp, the dark color of the engraving and the leather makes the graphic hard to see. It is only visible in bright, hard light. How would I go about making the engraved graphic more visible? I thought about perhaps filling in the engraving with a light-colored paint, but how would I go about doing that? With wood, I would just slop on acrylic paint and then wipe the excess off with a tissue, leaving the paint in the crevasses. But would that also work with leather? Would the paint wipe off properly? I'm too scared to do anything to the wristbands yet since I've spent a lot of time, effort and money getting them custom engraved. Any advice would be very helpful please! :D

Topic by TheFirewalker    |  last reply


Wanting to dye orange-wheat work boots black but not sure what material they're made of

They look like knock off Timberlands or those typical construction work boots. They're not a brand I've heard of (ShoeVibe "Tan Fly Ankle Boot") so I'm having a hard time even finding the manufacturer online and only finding out of stock retail options. It's definitely not leather and it doesn't appear to be faux suede. The description on a site I found said "man made" upper and lining. I'm basically just wondering if I could use black shoe polish to dye them or if I need to actually dig deeper into this material thing and get shoe dye.

Question by aywowww    |  last reply


What's the easiest/cheapest way to print/stamp text onto leather? Answered

I keep my smartphone in a book-style leather case and frequently use it to find things out via Wikipedia. It annoys me that it doesn't have "Don't Panic!" written in big friendly letters on the cover. This needs sorting. However, I'd like to keep the cost down, otherwise I could have just bought a copy of the Encyclopedia Galactica.... So, how can I best apply the wording to the leather? Can I stamp it? Print it somehow? Would vinyl stickers work? Keep in mind, this needs to be: - Cheap - Visible on smooth black leather - Durable (I'll be carrying this in my pocket) If the best/cheapest option is paying someone to do it, I'd still like to hear about that option. If this is a stupid idea, please also point that out before I waste any more of my life on it. Thanks!

Question by SirronTM    |  last reply


Anyone know leathercraft?

'Twould make a keen 'able, don'cha think? Anyway, does anyone know anything about working leather? I'm wanting to make some arm bracers, and after thinking it over, have decided I don't know much about how to do that.

Topic by 8bit    |  last reply


DIY Boot Waterproofing?

I have a nice ($15) pair of steel-toed work boots that are great, but they aren't waterproof. Being too lazy to buy actual boot waterproofer, I would like to know if anyone knows whether spray enamel (clear coat) would do the same thing. My boots are leather (synthetic, I'm sure) and nylon (I think). I could probably mask the leather off, so it would not be affected by overspray. I was just wondering, in case anyone ha ever done this before. Thanks!

Topic by Bran    |  last reply


Crazy, Amazing and Delicious AIR Experience

What a wild ride... So here's the recipe.  Take one computer illiterate lady who's got a lot of random skills she's learned along the way and throw her into a room with 12 other people who's second  language is CAD or 0110001 or some other variation of looking into the eye of a screen and typing sweet nothings into its curvacious keyboard. Man did I feel like a fish in the desert.  I left orientation completely overwhelmed, flattened, and having no idea what I was doing there amongst all these obviously tech savvy folks. Once again odd man out. Now let me be clear, this has nothing to do with the people. Everyone was super sweet and willing to help. I was out of my element, which is exactly what I needed. For as long as I can remember, I've always thought in art. From the clothing and accoutrements I make for myself  to the images I capture. From the food that I create to the materials I bind together, or the mood i can set in an empty space if given a couple days to have my way with it.  Creation and art are an integral part of my existence as an external expression of my internal voice. So having three paid months to spend on my own work was a dream come true. For the first time in my life I was able to really focus on my work with 100 %  of my attention and not juggle how I was going to pay rent    and which piece goes where or how am I going to afford that thing I need for it.  It was fantastic to have that kind of creative freedom and I feel incredibly lucky to have had that opportunity.   I was able to finally create my stained fruit windows, something I've been imagining and working on in my head for many many years. I was able to experiment with different coatings and textures, slice thickness and transparency  to best preserve the beauty of the sliced fruit.  I spent day after day in the kitchen testing gluten free meal-worm flour bread amongst other insect delights. This was really an important experience for me due to my issues with factory farms and its effects on the environment but still feeling my bodies need for animal protein to perform. Once I felt comfortable with my results in the kitchen, I decided to explore the rest of the workshop at Autodesk / Instructables. Let me start by saying Holy $hit is that shop incredible. There are classes that are required to be able to use any one piece of equipment from the 3D printers to the drill. There were tools in the metal shop that I knew how to use but was unable to because I didn't take the class or get signed off. I recommend that any new AIR be realistic in what they want to use and take those classes right away. If you need a hole drilled and you aren't signed off on the drill, just ask someone who is signed off, they'll drill that hole for you because it's that kind of place. Time goes fast and if there is something you want to learn, go for it because when are you going to have that opportunity again? All the instructors are great and willing to answer all your crazy questions. A special thanks to Gabe for helping me so many times with all my computer questions and when the laser cutter doesn't feel like cooperating. (I did mention I'm computer Illiterate right?) On that note, I have learned soooooo much here and though I still feel that computers are generally going to shut down when I touch them, I have learned how to create an image and laser cut that image. I started with leather and made a few water bottle sheaths, dog collars, a leather necklace and a beautiful bag.  Now I'm working with wood and the detail is pretty incredible. I dabbled in the 3D software world and learned a little with Fusion 360 but I wasn't willing to take my precious residency time to learn it. But I do plan on pursuing that education. It's interesting to me and important for the way the world is going which I'm still trying to wrap my head around being a very old school DIY hand made kind of gal. I really cherished my time as an Artist in Residence at Instructables. Honestly, when I was there, I never wanted to leave and would stay into the wee hours. The people are very kind and its like a large quirky family. I've never worked anywhere where employees voluntarily and enjoyably come in on the weekend to work. By the time my residency was over, I think there were forty-five Airs. So many interesting and creative people.  What an amazing idea this is. What an amazing opportunity for growth this program has given so many people. A truly beautiful gift that I am forever grateful for. Thank you to all the people in the foreground who help us on a daily basis and form this place and for those behind the scenes that make it possible. Thank you, you are so appreciated. Sincerely, Rima Khalek

Topic by rimamonsta    |  last reply


i have a knife that i bought without a sheath and i want to make one for it.? Answered

I dont have any leather. is there any other materials that would be good for a sheath. i have made one out of ducttape but it didnt work, the knife cut through the tape in a couple of days.

Question by lynx66    |  last reply


What glues is best for stainless steel? Answered

I am going to glue some synthetic leather (vynahide) to a piece of stainless steel. What type of adhesive should I use? Preferably water proof. Sorry I can't go into details, it's a project I'm working on for a contest. Help much appreciated! :)

Question by Xuthal    |  last reply


Restore an old steam trunk

This is a quick CALL FOR HELP regarding the restoration of an old steam trunk. The idea is to convert it into a stylish coffee table and storage space and I could really use your suggestions on how to strengthen it's construction and embellish it's exterior. With your help I'll go forward with the plans and publish my progress here. The timeline is also important since the trunk occupies considerable space in our little apartment, so ideally I would like to finish all the woodwork within the next couple of weeks (until beginning of May 2012). The exterior and small touches could wait. HOW I FOUND THE TRUNK I found the trunk next to our dumpster 2 days ago and I just couldn't believe it - Who would throw away such a beautiful thing? - Was I such a good boy that Garbage Santa gave me this gift for Passover/Easter? I hauled it to our flat - my wife asking me what did the cat drag in this time.. (she just loves it that pack our home/car with stuff I find) she couldn't believe her eyes when she saw it. Since we live in a flat with almost no storage space it's very difficult to put together all the needed materials for this project, plus, I insist on doing it with recycled wood (what I find lying around) so to minimize costs. Requirements: @ The trunk should be sturdy (kids might climb on it at some point, ~20kg on the lid). @ It will probably hold a big pile of magazines (10 - 40 kg on the bottom), pillows/blankets. @ I want to add 4 or 6 casters to the bottom so it'll be more mobile. @ I think there should be additional internal support where the leather handles are so when they're pulled I won't be standing with one side of the trunk in my hand. Materials: - Wood - I currently have a solid pine wood dresser in my car, ready to be disassembled for it's beams (?) - OSB - there is some around where I work, 10mm thick. I'll try to find any more materials you'll suggest. Tools: - Drill (and screws) - Glue gun - Staple gun - Carpenter's glue - Hammer - Oxalic acid - Will need to finally buy a Gigsaw.... Trunk internal measurements: Length - 980mm Height - Box - 485mm, Lid - 105mm Depth - 559mm The trunk's side thickness is about 7-8mm made of ply wood covered with black leather. I has seen better days, but it's in relatively good condition. We were thinking of gluing the black surfaces with some sort of bright colored wallpaper (leaving the black leather lining with pins visible) so it would give it some sort of lightness - less bulky. I was also thinking of maybe gluing some sort of fabric with a cool vintage design, but it seems like a lot of work making it look good, stretched with no wrinkles, excess glue... plus it'll probably gather a lot more dust than a wallpaper (I'm allergic). There are two issues that concern me: 1. A fear that this current design isn't strong enough for a clumsy family. 2. I want to attach the corner supports and lid OSB without needing to drill the exterior (too much). I thought of using a lot of glue, but I'm not sure it's the best way to go. What do you think? I'm also attaching this design in Google SketchUp.

Topic by Mr.Bahur    |  last reply


Vandergraph generator

I am interested in building a small  vandergraph generator.  I am thinking this will certainly be no taller then 2ft and likely closer to 1ft.  I understand the general principal of how it works and this should be a good first voltage project that I should have everything I need for.  What has been holding me back for quite some time is that I could not come up with a decent belt for the inside.  But I read on the forums I think that leather is a good belt to use (or human skin).  This seems very odd to me and maybe I am missing something but is this really a good thing to use as a belt?  It would be nice because I could cut it as wide and long as I need and then sew it into a belt with some thread.  I happen to have some leather laying around from some crafting I have been working on.   Then as long as I am making this thread I was wondering what the best "tube" would be that the belt runs in.  I had considered making a plexi glass tube with hot glue to hold it together.  I think it could be cool to have a see through setup.  But I want this to work as well as I can get it.  So if a different material would work better I am open to suggestions. Also I will try my best to find my camera and post step by step photos once I know what the heck I am doing.

Topic by jcaresheets    |  last reply


12v Electric Motor Speed Control?

I have a 12v electric motor I was given from a camper water pump (at work currently so I don't have any of the specs). I also have a power supply from an LED lighting kit to take the power from a wall plug down to the 12v for the motor. Connecting them directly works fine, but I am trying to make an electric leather burnisher and would like to have a bit of control over the speed of the motor. I have a small 25 ohm rheostat I wired in, and it worked perfectly, but the rheostat began to overheat with in a few minutes. What type of controller would I need to look for? Just not sure where to look when it comes to items like that.

Question by dbgrigg189    |  last reply


Where would be a good place to find a cheap, but nicely bound book?

I'm working on a project where I I'd love to have a finely bound book, (leather, gold leaf, etc) but I don't care about what the book is about since I'll be removing all the pages. Where should I look for something like this?  I'd hate to buy an heirloom just to ruin it.  The few fine used book stores I've looked at didn't have anything like this.

Question by Grathio    |  last reply


Gift Exchange

My skills include: Leather work, Prop making, Computer Hacking, Photography What I'd like to make for someone: A leather bound book I'd be willing to make this size gift package for someone (choose all that apply): Small or Medium I'd be willing to receive a smaller or larger size gift package from someone than the one I make for someone else: Yes What I like: Cyberpunk, Photography, well placed design, unique ideas and Apple Macs What I don't like: N/A I absolutely can't have: (due to allergies, pets, etc) Type of thing I'd love to receive: Something a bit different looking to adorn a shelf or coffee table Would you be willing to ship to an address outside your own country? Yes Confirm that are at least 18 years old or, if not, that you have the approval of a parent or guardian: Yes, I am over 18.

Topic by gmjhowe  


Can't add email

I logged in through Twitter and created an instructable to enter into the leather goods contest. In order to do so, I need to have an email connected to the account, but the site does not allow me to add/change my email (Likely because there's none to begin with due to the twitter connection) I'm on win7  on 32.0.3 FF - Tried Chrome as well. Works in neither. The email I'm trying to add is hammer@martillo.dk - If someone is able to add that to my profile so I can get into the contests in the future I'd appreciate it

Topic by Martillo Workshop    |  last reply


How and what Powder to Polish Rock containing Agate or Quartz

Got this lucky wreck for $350 and a month of work later is fully refurbished running  smoothly .. I can hand shape ( grind ) Quartz and Agate to pleasing shapes. I can't use Tumble polish because it destroys the shape. Please help me understand what powder like talc etc should I use on the leather spinner polish wheel to shine my art stones like semiprecious stones in a store ??

Question by iceng    |  last reply


Free Sewing Patterns

I'm trying to find a bunch of patterns for various pieces of medieval garb. The idea is that I want to make a bunch of outfits from my book, mostly as visual aids, but also as cosplay (because it's way more fun to dress up as your own characters than someone else's). If anyone can help me find the patterns, I need them for: Tunics (both laced and otherwise) Trousers Hooded cloaks Kirtles (sleeveless and long-sleeved) A buckled leather jacket (i.e. a jacket with buckles in place of buttons) (it's for a male character, by the way) I would preferrably like the patterns to be free, but, if not, I need them to at least be downloadable. The jacket will probably be a little tricky, since it's leather and not a very common design, but if anyone can find somewhere that sells them fairly cheaply, let me know. Of course, I'm not going to dump the work on everyone else and then slack off. I'm going to keep searching as well, so I can compare ideas and suggestions from everyone.

Topic by timmycutts    |  last reply


UK Laser Cutting and Etching

We're offering a 20% discount on our regular prices  to all UK Instructable Pro members who need laser cutting or etching of acrylics, leather or wood. For some examples of our recent work see. https://www.instructables.com/id/Jayefuus-Blog-Roundup-August/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Negative-Laser-Metal-Etching/ https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1Y/55SO/GB3W26ZY/F1Y55SOGB3W26ZY.MEDIUM.jpg Our pricing is based on 50 GBP/hour machine time. Etching is considerably slower than cutting.... Contact me via PM for details and a quote. Steve

Topic by steveastrouk    |  last reply


CO2 canister discharge for arm mounted gun? Answered

I'm looking to modify a simple airsoft gun for the purposes of making the needed weapon props for a assassins creed costume a friend of mine is working on. With that said, the arm cannon/crossbow thing (sorry, I sadly never played the game!) is one I'm playing with now, and I got to thinking about taking a simple CO2 powered airsoft gun, and modding the barrel to take softer projectiles, and to be mounted to someones wrist. The question being: would the discharge from a CO2 cartridge harm someones hand? There will be leather between gun and wrist, by the way.

Question by DoctorWoo    |  last reply


Those Who Make - a video series about makers

Tonight I found an amazing website. I was reading the Etsy blog, and they had this video: I was floored. How cool is that? SUPER COOL And so I found my way to the Those Who Make website. The videos are stunning, and they show a bit of the process of impressive makers - everything from pottery, sewing, leather working, woodworking, and even food! Have a look and share your favorite video. :D Right now I'm having a hard time making up my mind. So happy I found this.

Topic by jessyratfink    |  last reply


Will keeping a cell phone in an Altoids tin damage it?? Answered

Hi. i just got a cell phone, and since i have very little money, i have to keep it safe and working for quite a while because i wont be able to afford a replacement. To help keep the phone safe, i made a phone case from an altoids case, covered in leather with a belt loop and padding on the inside. I was wondering if keeping the phone entirely surrounded by metal could have any ill affects on it. I understand that it reduces signal by quite a lot, bit will it actually harm the phone?

Question by ilpug    |  last reply


(newsletter) DIY Deodorant, Glowing Goggles, Robot Voices...

Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! We've got three fantastic contests this week, so get to work turning your great ideas and half-done projects into finished Instructables and enter! Pocket-Sized Contest - Think small, and win a custom laser-etched Leatherman! Get in the Garden Contest - Enter any Instructable with a gardening theme and win an awesome computer-controlled indoor composting machine from NatureMill! Art of Sound Contest - Share any music or sound-related Instructable, and win an incredible custom hi-fi tower set with subwoofer, monster speakers, and more!! Robot Voice Modulator Upside-Down Hanging Earth Box! Homemade Deodorant Used Tire Raised Garden & Tree Ring Save Space and Combat the Mess Leather Chain Necklace There's something fishy in my pocket! Programmable Leather Bracelet Quick and Cheap LED Lighting Scallop Your Guitar The Beverage Barge How to make a Cargo Kilt Win a cool computer-controlled indoor composter! Win these custom hi-fi speakers! Light Up Steampunk Goggle Mod One Cup Coffee Brewing Pocket-Sized Lantern Repair a Broken LCD Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


Steampunk nixie tube gauntlet watch?

     I am..... not very good with electronics. ill admit it. but i still love that feeling when you do something and finish and it feels perfect. and i really need some help. i have been looking everywhere in my town and nobody has any nixie tubes (probably because they are so old), and they are really expensive on places like ebay. i also have no clue how to work the pins, and how i could get such a high voltage. and make it all into a watch. and to make it small. and to keep it under 30 dollars. what a mouthful.      So could you all just list where you get your tubes, how you wire and program them, and how you even make a portable and practicle power source? i have been looking into the disposable camera power source, but that is already kinda big. when done i will have a leather/metal gauntlet to wear on my arm. it can take up about half of my forearm. can this even be done? i dont have an arduino, but i have a basic stamp, but its not good at keeping time, so thats out. please list your help and ideas below. and your knowledge is greatly wanted!!!

Topic by imBobertRobert    |  last reply


LED bracelet inlay

This is my first post so please excuse if I am in the wrong place :( I have a boot bracelet with a leather back and ornate bling glued to the leather and sewn at the edges. I want to add small LED strip lights, weather proof, cutable every 3 lights, double-sided adhesive to the center (between leather and ornate mesh side. I want to be able to turn it  on and off.  I figure 6 mini strip lights should be more than enough.  Here are the lights I have: Features: Superbright 3528 SMD LEDs with high intensity and reliability. 5 Metre strip with 600 LEDs Self-adhesive back with double side adhesive tape. Maintenance free, easy installation Long life of 50,000 hours Flexible strip which can easily be curved around bends. UUltra-bright but running at low temperature Viewing Angle : 120° Input volts: DC 12V This Cool White strip light has 600pcs Double Density,SMD 3528 LEDs The Strip is Customizable for any length you want, Cuttable every 3 LED's without damaging the rest strips, flexible and can be bent at any angle, Works with a 12 Volt Power supply Low power consumption, Eco Friendly, High Quality, high intensity and reliability, High Quality Cool White, Double Density 600 LED's, 3528 SMD 5M/16.4 ft, high intensity and reliability, Long lifespan,   Hopefully that helps.  What I need is a battery source that can be added to the inside of the bracelet that will light it up and allow me to turn off and on (push on/off is better than switch). The source would have to be in something waterproof like a latex substance and can only take up a minimal amount of space 1.5 - 2".  Obviously the batteries would have to lay flat (flat coin-like batteries?) Is there ANYONE out there who can give me ideas?   Thank you!!!  

Topic by harley0805    |  last reply


Will mylar block RFID signals? Answered

I have an idea for a small leather work project that would utilize mylar film as an RFID signal blocker.  I have tried to research the effectiveness of mylar film for this purpose and the consensus opinion seems to be a resounding "Yes, No and Maybe." If anyone can point me to an authoritative source or has personal information relating to this, I would be most appreciative. Thanks Addendum: Much as I anticipated, you have posted a host of excellent answers that gave me a lot of information I hadn't yet considered. For my part, I should have included more information concerning my project in my question. The Skinnerz response reminded me that I have some scraps of fine mesh stainless steel screen termite shield and I will give that a try rather than mylar for my wallet and passport case.

Question by Burf    |  last reply


How can I hole punch thin plastic page protectors in bulk? Regular punches don't work...?

Update: I found my answer, see comment below.  In short: I used a Carl Heavy Duty hollow-head Hole Puncher, and it works great! I've been using plastic page protectors (these, specifically) in bulk, say about 1000 a month.  However, I need them to be 8.5 x 8.5 and I also need to punch holes that are slightly off from the factory holes.  I'm basically using these as a cheaper alternative to 8x8 scrapbook page protectors (which are prohibitively expensive - say $1 a sheet or so). I've figured out how to quickly cut the pages (using a rotary cutter), and that works great.  However, I am still struggling to find a way to quickly & cleanly punch holes in these things.  The problem is that the plastic binds, stretches, and does not cut cleanly.  I need a very sharp & precise puncher to do this quickly, and I haven't found one yet. I've tried normal 3-hole punchers.  I can punch them one at a time, if I hit the punch hard, and occasionally it binds & sticks (since the plastic stretches instead of breaking and gets caught in the mechanism).  I've tried hand-held punches as well, same result.  Also, aligning each individual page is time consuming as well. The problem with paper hold punchers is that they're made for paper.  They're inaccurate, not sharp, but strong.  The cheap & heavy duty ones alike only differ in how much paper they can punch, but neither are sharp/accurate enough for thin plastic sheets.  Is there a high-quality razor-sharp & ultra-precise hold puncher out there?  I haven't seen any that look even close. I've tried holding them down & drilling them.  The plastic wraps around the drill bit and they rip to shreds. I also tried a leather punch, but the ones I got were much too dull - they just dented the plastic. The only thing that has had some success is a dremel 115 cutter bit.  That actually cuts into the plastic, and if I go carefully (eating a bit at a time) it'll go through a lot of sheets at once.  However, it's messy, takes a lot of setup, and leaves a very messy hole (all chewed up). Ideally, I'd love to line up 10 sheets or so, have a way to align them (a jig?), and then punch them all at once w/o any binding or sticking. Does anyone have any other ideas?  I've thought of melting a hole, but then the pages would all stick together.  I'm completely boggled - how can I do this?  What tool can I buy for this?  What method haven't I tried? Thanks guys!  Any suggestions are appreciated.

Question by jumpfroggy    |  last reply


Awesome site selling space age materials

If you're hurting for novel materials, do I have the site for you! It's got all these super-cool, futuristic-y weird, wacky and awesome materials made possible by science.  Between the talking tape (speaks a message without electronics!), shape memory polylmer, super elastic plastic, temperature sensitive glass (SO pretty!) and the temperature sensitive color changing fabric - I can't decide what I want most! Each product's page gives applications for it, but I'm sure ya'll don't need the suggestions...most of us work in regular plain old metal, wood, leather, plastic, electronics, etc - imagine all the extra routes you could go with some of these things as components. (No, I'm not being paid or something, I'm just excited about all the possibilities...hey, what about a contest with prizes being money to spend on this site??) As Kiteman would say - Go on... Inventables

Topic by Lithium Rain    |  last reply


Steampunk motorcycles

From The Kneeslider:Steampunk is all about the design and very little concerned with added (or lost) function but some of it would be neat if it worked half as well as you wish it would.That's about my take on it; my aesthetic sense says "ooh, shiny" and "mmm, leather" and "lovely scrollwork there, that would be fun to make" and my engineer side says "but...but...shouldn't those gears be doing something?" In any case, The Kneeslider has a piece on steampunk motorcycles, including the Hubbard Steamcycle, which may eventually actually run on steam, and a German bike that's a one-cylinder, 1440 cc machine with a shovel for a seat. Several other steampunk (or even steam-engine) bikes are mentioned in the comment section, as well. The 1908 Field Steam Bike includes "To progress gently move cut off lever and PRAY" as step 10 of the startup procedure, and this sleek little machine would be perfect for any aspiring steampunk supervillain. And from the nigh-venerable Steampunk Workshop, a piece on Tom Sepe's Whirlygig Emoto, a beautifully-crafted "electric-steam hybrid motorcycle."

Topic by reno_dakota    |  last reply


Biocouture: grow your own clothes.

Every so often, a bit of cutting edge science makes you sit back and think; This is so simple! Why didn't they think of this earlier? Instead of using animal parts, or plant fibres, BioCouture aims, ultimately, to grow entire garments in a vat. Right now, they grow mats of bacteria and yeast in a bath of nutrients, which spin mats of cellulose fibres that can be shaped into garments, resulting in a material dubbed "vegetable leather". The use of the material is limited - it cannot be worn in the rain, and it decomposes like any other vegetable matter, but the original team of artists have turned their idea over to "proper" scientists, who are working to modify the final product to be hydrophobic and longer lasting.  Until then, the garments they produce are unique, and transient, since they can end their useful lives on the compost heap. In the mean time, this is stuff grown in bath tubs - any Maker with a spare room and a biological leaning could be producing this stuff themselves. There's a patch for the first member to grow their own Robot t-shirt ;-)

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Project VR6

Hello all, thought id share my progress of my 97' VW Golf mk3 VR6 2.8 to create some discussion and VAG banter. I brought her completly standard and wanted to build a real sleeper for road use and track use that is fast, practical for everyday use and safe for the family. When I got her back in 2009 she was a standard vr6 nothing really special just a well looked after example Firstly I gave her a good clean inside and out along with a service.......and by clean i mean really cleaning, shampoo the carpet, treat the leather, clean out the heater units, remove and shampoo the roof lining, polish and resin the paint, de greese and steam clean the engine bay to name some of the bits ive done. The result was a very clean base "template" Once all was clean and I could see areas for imporvement I began the work, replacing all the bushes, front and rear lower arms, brake lines, discs, calipers, exhaust were the easy steps When it came to the engine itself I did not want to mess about with it too much just improve the BHP and general running of the car as 174bhp from a 2.8 VR6 is shocking. So removed the engine and re conditioned the gearbox and clutch. While this was out I thought it best to also do the pull chain not a big job but much easier with everything out, once back in I still was not finished.... After giving the engine a full service with new plugs, leads, coil pack, oil change, rocker cover, inlet manifold, seals, upgraded air filter I decided to get the car chipped to see what BHP could be pulled out of her. Happy to say with all that work she was running on the first dyno 192bhp a massive improvement from standard 174bhp and all that from just replacing and upgrading some standard old parts with more expensive performance parts. Once the Chip was installed and the guys at the tuning store had done their works she was happily chucking out 216.4BHP With that I was more than happy and the work put in over the 6month period really showed. I then decided to have all but bumpers colour coded and did a few minor tweeks to the exterious to make her a clean standard example... I will add a full list of specs and work done soon, enjoy the pics feedback welcome

Topic by Jedi_zombie85    |  last reply


Wall mounted colapsable massage table

High all, I have a room thats designated for massage and physical therapy. Its not a big room, 10 by 13 feet and it has one wall thats also a roof. So working space is a bit limmited. I have a old but strong massagetable thats made out of steel and has a black leather top. As a pressent i got it from my father inlaw so i dont want to put it a way, but it is however taking a lot of roomspace. So i was thinking on making a construction on my wall to mount it on so it can be folded away to make more room for other activities. Problem is... how do i make it strong enough to hold it in place, not only during idle time but most importent, during long massage sessions. The table weighs in at about 70 kilo's, the frame is solid and the legs are rounded aluminium pipes. O, and the design has to look a weee bit atractive... otherwise clients wil walk away thinking "OMG, LOOK AT THAT FREAKY TABLE!!!" Thnx in advance!

Topic by AriedeB    |  last reply


Sharpening knifes and similar tools

On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


cardboard 3d models

First, you'd have to be very careful not to cut yourself (a leather glove to hold the piece helps). If you print the pieces for a cardboard model, instead of cutting, it'll look better if the pieces are sliced. These are the steps that I take: 1. After printing the models, I cut the pieces leaving 1/8 to 1/4 white space along the edges. 2 I use 12/24 pack cardboard from soft drinks (the cardboard from hot pockets works also, but its harder to cut) 3. use a glue stick to transfer the pieces to your cardboard and roll any round object to remove any bubbles. 4. when dry use a pair of scissors to cut the pieces. 5. lay the template face down on your material and use a pen to trace the outline. if using cardboard, use a box cutter blade and slice the parts out, slicing to the line of adjacent pieces. For slots, cut the width thru the cardboard, and slice the required length. Use an exact-o knife to cut the ends, flip over and trim. I've built over a dozen models and my three grandchildren love them.

Topic by yauco    |  last reply


Can magnets in a cell phone pouch damage the phone? Answered

I had a Samsung flip-phone which I kept in a leather belt pouch with a magnetic flap closure. For the first 18 months, the phone was fine. Then it started rejecting calls when I removed it from the pouch to answer it, not every time, but once in awhile. I assumed that I was accidentally touching the Reject button. This kept happening more and more frequently, even after I started being very careful not to touch any of the controls. Finally, it started rejecting the calls when I lifted the flap of the pouch, without touching the phone at all. That's when I got a new phone. Throughout all of this, it worked just fine for outgoing calls, and sometimes even for incoming calls if the phone was not in the pouch when the call came in. As I said, I have a new phone now, and I still have the pouch but I'm kind of afraid to put the phone in it. Has anyone heard of phones being messed up in this way by magnetic-closure pouches before? All I find on Google is complaints about signal interference on the iPhone.

Question by RavingMadStudios    |  last reply


SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard for PC!!! Handmade please look!!

Check out this eBay auction for the following SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard!!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=170344004923&ssPageName;=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123"SteamPunk" Typewriter Keyboard for PCThis is a custom made "Steampunk" Typewriter Keyboard that is fully functional and works with any PC! I hand made this over the course of many weeks of hard and meticulous work, using the guts of a very solid Logitech PC keyboard system which I completely rebuilt over many stages, into this solid, beautiful, and unique piece of antique technological art! Three separate sets of antique Royal glass typewriter keys make up all of the keys besides the handmade brass keys (described below). I can personally guarantee this keyboard is completely unique, and you won't find anything like it out on the market! This new beautiful style of combining the old Victorian look with new high-tech products is becoming very popular from young teens looking to be creative and inspired to rich business CEO's wanting something beautiful to match their office. Think about the all the joy and beauty this would bring to your life (not to mention bragging rights!). Right now is your chance to own a piece or art and history which you can put to use everyday!This keyboards design consists of:Solid glass keys from a three different sets of original antique Royal early 1900's typewriters.Hand and naturally aged copper top and bottom rails.Custom, hand punched, leather backing (perfectly fitted and stretched over the top and seamed underneath).Custom bent steel side brackets (which have been properly welded to the copper rails to make a very solid keyboard).Beautiful antique cloth wire loom covering computer connector.Hand made brass Esc key, F keys (done in roman numerals), Arrows, and nine keys above Arrows (because they didn't make any of these keys on antique typewriters).Brief "Steampunk" HistorySteampunk is a sub-genre of fantasy and speculative fiction that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used usually the 19th century, and often Victorian era England but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date.Functionality and BeautyAs I keep strongly pointing out, not only does this piece of techno-art look beautiful, but it also works as beautifully too! All the keys were lubricated then meticulously aligned and ergonomically angled with high strength silicon glue, which will stand up to many years of hard use! Keys that weren't available (such as the F keys and arrows) I custom made from brass which was then clear coated for years of protection.A Brief Fabrication ProcessThis whole keyboard started with an idea in my head one day, and then turned into numbers of sketches and design ideas until I filled my notebook and decided it was time to make it! I started with a high quality Logitech PC keyboard, and gutted it down to the bare parts. Then after trimming all the borders off the top frame I perfectly aligned the key frame back together with now a flat surface. Next I had to hand cut all the key tops off and level them for attachment of the Royal typewriter keys. During this process I custom made the copper/steel rails and side pieces making sure the height and angle was ergonomically correct. Next was the custom punching of the leather backing which was quite difficult to align perfectly, but came out beautifully! Finally the smaller things like the light posts, cloth wire loom, painting and copper aging, and electrical work was done. (P.S. Like I said, this is a very brief summary of the complete process! Many, many steps took place during this fabrication!)Level, Sturdy, and Desk Scratching Friendly!This frame was professionally welded together by a hired welder who meticulously made sure was level and solid. Every detail about this keyboard was thoroughly thought through, down to the hidden padded bases so it won't slide around on your desk or scratch it!You Wont Find Anything Like It!Obviously you can tell by now that this is a very custom piece of art that you have the chance to own and display in your office or home! You can't imagine the beauty of this in real life, pictures just simply do no justice! A few other people have attempted to make such type of typewriter keyboards that consist of the original ugly plastic base and just changed keys.... this keyboard goes above and beyond the bar and you will not be disappointed!Reduced Environmental ImpactAs always, I tried to stay eco-conscious while designing and fabricating this keyboard. It was designed with the following features to reduce its environmental impact:High quality polyurethane based Leather alternative (no animals harmed!)Recycled copper pipingOriginal and restored Royal typewriter keys.Highly recyclable parts (although you'll never want to get rid of this!)

Topic by maxter32    |  last reply


I'm trying to make a Breast Plate

Hey, I'm going to build a piece of FANTASY chest armor. I'm not going for realism or authenticity. Just making "a pile of spikes" that looks cool in my opinion. I'm thinking of making something to the equivalent of a low neck line tank top out of leather / tight weave canvas, and then covering it in steel plates. I'm thinking of dividing the front suit into groups and bands of plate. So I'm going to have a set of bands from the right and left chest, then another section that joins them down the center. A section for the abdomen, a section for each side, and then similar sections for the back. I'm then going to bolt the shoulders onto their respective chest plates. So I've done a crappy sketch on GIMP, Kinda explaining what I'm going to do for the center line of the chest. I think If I do this right It'll allow a lot of flexibility, might even be able to see my chest expand and contract while breathing which I think would be a cool effect. Is there any reason why this wont work? But are there any key factors that I need to take into account when doing this? Parts that need to be more flexible than others?

Topic by Deathcapt    |  last reply


In Need of Help With a LED Project!!!

Greetings to all you budding mad scientists out there. I am an Student Artist who specializes in more 3D art forms, especially Jewelry/Fine Metalwork and Ceramics. Currently my interests are moving more toward the imagery found in the Steampunk style. This beautiful combination of Brass, wood, glass and leather in classic Victorian style is just speaking to my core being. So new designs are currently spewing forth from this place deep inside me, crying out for me to breath life into them. But my muse, sadly (or maybe not :)) is pushing me beyond my current skills. I have yet to incorperate light and electricity into my work, but to this current genera it is a natural marriage. So I am in need of assistance. An online Igor to my Frankenstein of Jewelry. I am needing to incorporate some LED lights (5-7) into my new piece to hopefully give it an almost otherworldly glow. But I have never done this before. Aside from LEDs I do not know what else I will need. Transistors, circuit boards, kinds of batteries ext of whatever else. So if anyone out there possesses the knowledge I am seeking I would appreciate any enlightenment you send my way. Thanks in advance - Draco Rincewind

Topic by DracoRincewind    |  last reply


Any ideas for a printer that can print onto a bound notebook's pages?

Hi, I've been wondering about this for a while. I would like some sort of machine that can print onto the pages of a book that is already bound. For example: If I have a leather notebook and I want to print a poem or some such onto a page I would then load the book into the printer and the printhead would move around the page to print the required text (as opposed to the page being moved in a normal printer). I was wondering if anybody knew of an existing tutorial, product hack that might allow me to do this? What I have found is the following: -Axidraw - this is probably the closest to what I want but it is quite expensive. -Handibot - this does what I had in mind but for cutting. My ideal would be something like this that prints. -Printer modification - another step in the right direction but this only works if the material being printed on is of a fixed height. The constraints I foresee is the fact that the pages in the book need to be kept flat and that the height of what is being printed on can vary. If there is a solution out there I haven't been able to come up with the search terms to find it. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Marcu

Question by Wormlamp    |  last reply


Mini-book pin's

Okay, so I'm trying to make some mini-book pin's. Well actually I'm not sure it's actually called "pin's" in English... it's a thing that was popular in the 90's (in France at least), a decorative object with a pin on the back and a kind of clip to attach it to clothing. I've found a picture on wikipedia, but it's really, really bad quality and I'm not sure it will help : http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6a/Pins01.JPGSooo... since I ruined my girlfriend's one when I put it with her clothes in the washing machine, I thought I could try to do one my self... shouldn't be too hard, heh ?But my problem is : I have some thin paper for the pages, and nice leather-like paper for the cover, but I have no idea how to glue the pages together, because the mini-book needs to be openable like a real book. I tried some "2 coat rubber cement" I got here but it just doesn't work... I don't have a glue gun but I think maybe it is the kind of thing I need. You see, the glue has to be solid enough to form the spine of the book.Anyone has an idea about what I should do (I hope I've been clear enough) ?One problem I'm thinking of, too, is that the book has to stay well closed unless you really want to open it.Anyway, thanks

Topic by SeeSchloss    |  last reply