I got $75 in Lowes gift cards and am having trouble spending it. What tools/materials should I buy to get the most bang for my buck? There are so many things I want I just cannot decide.
Topic by ehudwill | last reply
For a future project (blue barrel infra sub woofer with ducted fan) I'm already looking for parts. I see most amplifiers and amp chips (like the TDA7294) have a frequency response usually 20 - 20,000 Hz. But I'm interested in a range from 0- ca 40 Hz. As far as I understand, the low cutoff is to protect the driver (speaker). Would it be possible to circumvent the low cutoff, or would I have to build from scratch? (I'm thinking in a 70 - 150 W RMS range).
Question by BobS | last reply
I need to wirelessly video a seance in low light and remotely view what the camera captures as it is happening. Web cam? GoPro? Android Galaxy III? How could I view the digital video remotely? Laptop? Another phone? Thanks for ideas. Ourladyofquacamole
Topic by ourladyofguacamole | last reply
I want to make a baby night toy with multi color LEDs and a rotation device. For which i need a low speed motor. Can someone help me find such a motor or give any idea on how an ordinary motor can be used for this purpose? thanks in advance for all the feedback.
Question by muhammajunaid | last reply
Right for some time now I have been thinking of building a computer that is low power 20w max needs to have some processing power preferable duel core i have been looking at 'intel D510MO' link to spec > http://www.ebuyer.com/product/191127 What i would like is for someone to advise me on what to buy to keep the power low (20w or less) and the performance high at a fairly low price
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
Can someone please provide me with a schematic to turn on an LED when a 9v PP3 gets low (~<20%), no microcontrollers, the simpler the better. I am hoping you can do this with a few diodes, transistors, resistors, and maybe some capacitors, but I can't think how this would work.
Topic by andy70707 | last reply
Hello, I need a simple circuit to switch off a high brightness LED that draws 200ma when my four cell Ni-MH battery pack drops to 4.0v(1.0v per cell) Nothing too complicated, something with a transistor, a comparator circuit, and a zener or an all in one IC? I've tried a few "this should work" circuits and then have been told, "well I haven't actually built one". Thanks.
Topic by jefflahay | last reply
After placing second in a contest, I was very disappointed to find that the prize tool was a low quality tool from harbor freight which broke the first time I used it. I was also disappointed to see that they greatly overstated the $ value of the tool by linking to the most overpriced seller they could find (double the going rate for the tool). Last time I placed in a contest, the tool was a very nice dremel which I have used often and has not broken. Would be nice if they would give us quality tools again.
Topic by TheNecromancer13 | last reply
Does anybody know if there is a small, personal CNC in the range of under $1000? I do not feel I am ready to make my own, though I know there are plenty of 'ibles about them that I'm sure are good. I am looking to purchase a CNC, software, cabling, bits and all. Is there even such one as cheap as this? if so, where would I find one?
Question by dkop1 | last reply
Hi, I would just like to seek your assistance and idea for the observation below on my experiment: I have a gadget that is being charge by a 2w 9v solar panel, the problem is I haven't place a blocking diode and I observed that when I tested the charging slot there is about 0.16v output. To clear it that was supposed to be my input voltage. 1. Question is why does it produce an output voltage even though it is imy input voltage? 2. Would the 0.16volts output have a significant effect on my system during night time and or bad weather? Please give facts and computation if possible. 3. If I want to step down my input voltage of 9volts to 4.5 volts can you give me the idea how to do it. Well, I am asking you this because your insights and helps for me in the past are very helpful for my science project. Thank you teachers
Question by mitchiko | last reply
For several of my projects I required some sort of bearing that would not only allow for a minimised free play but also very low friction.Before you get too exited: This is not a new type of bearing or anthing for heavy duty loads, not even for ongoing use without servicing.I found that even slightly heavier things rotated on makishift bearing far easier if the axle was verticall instead of horizontally.This gave me the idea to try a simple needle-bearing approach.This is how it goes:1. Grind and polish your axle to get a nice needle point - it must be perfectly centered!I prefer to do this with the axle in a fast spinning drill on a fine grinder.The polishing in a simlilar way, but please do not try it with a cloth in your hand on a spinning axle!2. The other part of the bearing is a screw or pin with a punch mark.I grinded and polished a punch for this so it has an angle of 60° and polished it to a mirror finnish.If alignment is of importance then of course the pin/screw must work for this purpose!If in doubt make it spind an use a pencil to get the true center.A drop of sewing machine oil and it spins nice and with very little friction.The key is to adjust the gap(s) between axle and punch mark to next to nothing.You don't want any pressure along the axle as you would "drill" a hole into your mounts.And you don't want it too loose to avoid wobble.I hope it might give you an idea for your next project.
Topic by Downunder35m
I have an HP Windows 7 laptop that always had fast internet up until 4 months ago. Its been having 2-3, or sometimes 1 bar now. Im trying to use my personal hotspot but thats not even working. My sister has a Windows 7 laptop as well, uses the same internet and still has better internet connectivity than I do. FULL BARS! I know my laptop is capable of having fast speed too, I just don't know how. I think there is a setting or program stopping it from having better connects.How do I fix this?
Topic by JadeKS | last reply
If not where can I buy it? Lowes? Its fror rocket ignitors.
Question by imthatguy1125 | last reply
Alright, so I blew up my iHome2GO's internal amplifier board, (Don't ask, long story, lots of electrical shenanigans) and I am attempting to design a new board to go inside it, and I'd prefer it to be a through-hole design (although I could use SMD parts if I HAD to...) The speakers that are inside the iHome are rated at 3 ohms, 3 watts, and I'd like to have an amp that outputs 3 watts. I just need help with the actual amplifier's design, I can't find anything like a chip suitable for the job (although I probably missed several), and am an amateur electronics hobbyist. I'd like low-distortion sound as well, I dabble in high-end audio, and I'd like this to sound at least as good as my headphones do, like it used to. Also, it runs at 6V (4xAA). Thanks!
Question by hxr.keltz | last reply
I have a question for spudgunners and other people who know about PVC. I've heard that PVC becomes bitter at low temperatures, so you shouldn't expose your spudgun to low temperature, but is it okay to leave it out in the cold and then warm it back up for use later? Does that affect the strength of the PVC? I have a problem storing some PVC in an heated environment during the winter.
Topic by starwing123 | last reply
So, back when All Elecronics had them, I bought 100 of the 1F cooper (relatively high current) supercaps (2.5V), and likewise 100 of the Polyacene "batteries" that Electronics Goldmine is selling (0.6F, 3V, 20ohm.) But I've found the low voltages much more inhibiting than I thought it would be in actually using these. Have people managed to find good uses for these despite the low voltages?
Topic by westfw | last reply
Hi guys, I have built a low battery indicator circuit for a 6V battery source. It will light up a led when the voltage reaches below 5V. The 6V battery source powers a servo motor, which is controlled by a microcontroller. The problem I have is that when the servo motor rotates, the led lights up. And when the servo stops rotating, the led goes off. This happens even when the battery is above 5V. Any idea what is wrong? And how I could rectify the problem? I have attached the circuit of the low battery indicator, if it helps.
Topic by kurtselva | last reply
Hi, I'm looking for simple way to convert a low AC into a usable DC, of say 4 - 5 volts for charging batteries. I recently saw one discussed online, specced at costing about a quarter, but couldn't find a way to do it, or a way to purchase something like that. Thanks!
Topic by fafnir665 | last reply
Hiyas I am longing loads for pet of my own since my bunny died. but i am not allowed another pet. does anybody have any ideas of how to make a *loving* pet???? thanks p.s this is my first ever comment on instructables!!!!! pp.s needs to be low budget (eg. under $100)
Question by juicymoose | last reply
Okay so i'm making a railgun, and need to get capacitors. Should i go with the ones in the 300-400 volts range, or somewhere around 15-50 volts? I would rather go low-voltage, as they seem to be alot cheaper. Also, how would I go about making a charging circuit, schematics would be nice.
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
Just had a flyer through from these guys http://ragworm.eu/ VERY low cost PCB making - around 6 USD/sq inch for double sided plated holes - and they have very liberal design rules, so they'll cut boards to weird shapes too Looks like free UK shipping, I don't see what they are saying about international orders. Steve
Topic by steveastrouk | last reply
My other half and I have recently come to the conclusion: you can only eat so much talapia. We need help. He's a type one diabetic (the kind you get when you're a kid and some nasty virus destroys your poor pancreas) so that means limited carbs, and preferably the good kind of carbs (fruits, whole grains, etc). I've tried looking up recipes online only to find several very fancy, very expensive low carb dishes. Please help. We are college students who cannot turn to Ramen for this solution! Cheers and many thanks to you, Heather
Topic by mooseinakilt | last reply
Hello, I saw a great project on youtube, a water button, and gave it a try. it works, all it does is when one touches water, a led turns on, just a proof of concept. But what I was worried about, is if there are any negative health impacts of 3.3 v going though you and into the ground? The power is not noticeable, but still, I worry. ps. I did Google this, but couldn't find anything.
Topic by penguins | last reply
Back in 1998 Nina Katchadourian spent a number of weeks repairing broken spiderwebs with red thread. Interestingly, the spiders would reject the thread over the course of the night and repair it themselves by morning. Definitely check out her work.
Topic by randofo | last reply
Hey everyone... I've been trying to find a DC push solenoid powered by 12V or less (I think 9V would be best). It needs to be able to push down on point and shoot camera trigger so I'm estimating about a half pound push minimum. I saw some time lapse modifications on the Make: photo pool. I'm going to do the same, but with simplicity in mind :P
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
Out in Naunquan, China the villagers use molten iron to celebrate instead of fireworks. The tradition dates back some 500 years when the blacksmiths of the day couldn't afford fireworks and did this instead. While there's only one color to work with, the effect is pretty stunning and a lot more in-your-face without, you know, melting your face off if you don't get too close.via Gizmodo
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I the past 4 months I have replaced the water heater, water softener, and the pressure tank. Everything was working fine until I developed a leak in a PVC elbow from the outside water supply As soon as that was replaced and I turned the wter supply back on my hot water pressure dropped to almost nothing in all of the faucets. I am thinking some scale got lodged in the outflow pipe from the water heater and I need to apply high pressure air from one of the faucets to force this out.
I was building crossbows all over the place this weekend, at one moment I had one that was twice as large as the Reaper, but I lacked pieces to make it sturdy. This started out as a low amount of pieces Reaper, but I eventually made it a small crossbow which has about 80-95% of the Reapers power. Although it has the power and probably also the distance, it doesn't have a double arrow trigger(only one arrow) and I don't think it is able to fire properly without trigger. It is however, compared to the Reaper very practical, light and easy to fire/load. Btw there are 4x3 rubberbands on it in pictures. I don't know if I am going to post this one though, maybe if its really needed :P
Topic by Wicky | last reply
SkidMark2, or anyone who can help, I have a Portfolio 120 Watt Power Pack with 6 LED lights. I don't know their wattage, but the power pack, lights and supply cord all came as a kit, so I'm sure they don't require more power than the pack can supply. I'm NOT getting the E1 error message. My problem is that the lights don't come on when turned on. The power pack is set to "O" for switching on or off manually, but the house's light switch usually has to be flipped once or twice to get them to come on. I've got both light sensors covered, so they should be sensing darkness and allow the lights to come on. Any idea how to fix this so that turning the switch on once turns the lights on???
Topic by KenKlos | last reply
So I was riding my small razor scooter to school (the kinds that fold up and fit in a backpack) and thought "it would be really cool to make this thing run with a motor." After I got home, I looked at it and thought of a way to make it work. If you put a small rubber piece on the end of the motor and lay that against the wheel right behind the break with some pressure, you could probably make it go pretty fast. The thing I was wondering is what is the smallest motor I could use and still have it work at about the same speed as me pushing with my foot on the road? 50 watts or so? I only weigh 125 pounds and would like it to work with 150.any suggestions? I would like to not have to use a car battery, with all the balance issues and such.
Topic by trenzalorian | last reply
I am having a strange problem on a USB peripheral.... it is a digital radiography sensor that overheats. I believe it may be due to the power supply to the motherboard, but I don't know for sure. I am ASKING FOR YOUR HELP in reasoning out what may be the cause. Anyone with computer/electronics experience, PLEASE HELP!!! I was told that my power supply is too low voltage, and that current is going up in the USB peripheral causing it to heat up. I always thought V=IR means that if voltage drops so does current. But in other places I read that if voltage drops, current goes up so that the wattage/power usage stays the same according to P=VI. So which is it? V=IR or P=VI ? If my power supply has too low voltage, will the current in the device increase to compensate? Or will it just have a lower current? Does it depend on the circuit and the exact electronics in the USB peripheral? Here is my SETUP. It is SIMPLE: Antec AR-350 power supply connected to a motherboard Asus P5N7A-VM in an ATX case. All I have otherwise is a SATA hard drive and a SATA DVD-ROM in there. That's it! Problem started to happen about 1.5 years after I got the computer. That is why I am thinking maybe it is the power supply, or maybe it is the motherboard? The computer works fine in every other way! It uses Windows XP and has a wireless keyboard/mouse which also works fine. BIOS settings screen Hardware Monitor shows voltage for USB 5v reading about 4.9v, within tolerance. However, one of my USB peripherals is a digital xray sensor. It works ok a few times, then it starts to overheat and fail. This only happens on this computer. When I use another computer (like a laptop) with the same USB hardware it functions ok and never overheats. I don't have any problems on the other computer, even thought I am using the same software/drivers. I bought a different ATX case with a new power supply, and just moved the motherboard, HD and DVD over. Now the motherboard BIOS shows under Hardware Monitor that it is getting 5.2 V instead of 5v, so it is higher! Also the 12 V is higher (around 12.2v) and same for the 3.3V. All the voltages are HIGHER! So I have yet to test this new configuration with the USB peripheral sensor. Could the motherboard be faulty? I did notice the motherboard looks "curved" with the area under the CPU sort of bulging out. However, with this motherboard you will see there is a huge heat-sink/fan that gets clamped over the CPU and that may be bending the board. Keep in mind the board works perfectly otherwise, so I am wondering WHY it would only affect USB for this one peripheral and not for the keyboard and mouse? Maybe the circuitry on the keyboard/mouse is more tolerant to low voltage? Would appreciate your thoughts please.
Topic by edy | last reply
I am a manufacturer and exporter of stainless steel pipe.Our main products include Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings, Stainless Steel Liquid Transport Pipe,Stainless Steel Structure Pipe , Stainless Steel Sanitary Pipe(Involve The Aquatic Products Pipe), Stainless Steel Boiler And Hot Permutater Pipe,Stainless Steel Flange And Stainless Steel Valve etc. Our products have acquired the license regarding the anitation and safety of drinking water by the Department of Health of Zhejiang Province and passed the accreditation of ISO9001:2000 International Quality Management System by CCS.Company Name: ZHEJIANG NANBO STEEL INDUSTRYCO.,LTD. Add:lndustrial Zone,Qiyi Village,Lanjin Bridge,Shacheng Town,Longwan District,Wenzhou CityTel:+86-0577-86997866 86051988 86058799 Fax:+86-0577-86050988Contact:RichardZip code:325025Web Site: http://www.stainlesssteelpipe.net E-mail: email@example.com
Topic by stainlesssteelpipe
I live in a converted bus made into a mobile home in Outback Australia. I'm currently building a 'Solar System' so I can go anywhere without relying on hooking up to mains power. The biggest problem I'm having is finding an 'Inverter' that will handle power consumption to run my 'Fridge' and ''Air Conditioner', I have a 2500w Inverter but this can only run an 'Aircon' up to 300w, so tell me where you can get one that runs at this power level !! I have an idea that may get over both problems (Fridge and Aircon). I was looking through 'ebay' and found a 80L Fridge/Freezer that runs on 12v, mainly used for 4WDs and RVs. I'm just wondering if I could somehow carefully drill a hole into the freezer cabinet and coil copper or aluminum small bore pipe around the internal walls of this, then have a small 12v DC Pump circulating 'Antifreeze' or similar through a external radiator with fan blowing through this into my living area. I know this will be a drain on batteries as the freezer will be constantly running due to the warmer return fluid circling around inside the cabinet, but I'm not really worried about this as I will have 4 Solar Panels totaling around 500w production at 7-8amps and 4 Deep Cycle Batteries rated at 100ah each, total 400ah. Will this setup be efficient as a air cooling system without effecting the frozen food in my freezer too much. Would love to here any comments on this and also any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Regards Keith
Question by Keefe | last reply
I want to get some of this thick transparent plastic from a lowes and make a cube frame and put led lights inside so the box will glow. Im not too much of a diy person so I wanted to see if anyones done this before. Welding it is not an option, I want it looking clean cut and professional. 4 feet high by 3 and 3 feet. Im going to put a led light panel inside so I can change the mood lighting. I have a somewhat blurry picture which I saw of someone elses.
Question by catwood86 | last reply
Hi all, I'm working on a project aimed at helping e-waste workers in Ghana. They collect cables and burn them to get the copper (see video 6min). Burning them is toxic and they damage their health. I'm looking for alternatives to this burning process. - First idea would be stripping cables. I will need a very basic tool, man-powered, to strip them. - Second idea would be shredding and sorting out. Probably something like this bike (http://www.halwatts.co.uk/Esource). I would like to do it open source hardware to facilitate replication. I'm looking for people who can help by giving tips on how to build a prototype, and maybe get more involved. Do you know about tools that can serve this purpose of getting copper out the cables, low-cost, low-tech? Thanks
Topic by rf.font | last reply
I've been buying low power relays at RadioShack, but I bought them all. I need more relays and don't want to wait for RadioShack to restock. I need relays similar to this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062478 sold on Digi-Key. The relays have to be low power enough to work directly off of an Arduino.Thanks!
Question by gregr | last reply
When an ATtiny2313 gets programmed using an Arduino as an ISP, if pins #4 and 15 are held low during programming will it effect the the program. Or will the program be loaded correctly and work correctly irregardless. Use the blink sketch for an example.
Question by WWC | last reply
I just soldered up a 555 monostable circuit following an internet tutorial and for some reason the output seems to be both low and high. it can power a LED connected to the 0V & pin 3 and the 9V & pin 3. any ideas what might have happened?
Question by DrVonTrap | last reply
Is there an easy way to convert a security system sensor from battery (2 3V lithium batteries) to a wired low voltage line? I have pulled the cover off the sensor (image attached) and it doesn't look too complicated. Other options would be to convert it to POE or USB. Don't know if that's doable or practical. I'm building a house and have an opportunity to never have to replace those batteries, which are not on my "be nice to the environment" list. I have plenty of low-voltage in the house already. There is also built-in solar backup for 12-15 hours for power outages. Thanks for the help.
Question by lgpitman | last reply
Hi! I would like to make, buy, or find, a low voltage high amperage transformer to power an electrolosis cell. I like playing with the hydrogen-oxygen gas produced. From what I have read, I only need about 1.8 volts for electrolosis, so I'd like a circuit or transformer that could take the power from preferable a 9 volt battery and convert it to 1.8v at as high an amperage as I can get. Thanks : )
Question by fozzy13 | last reply
I have an old palm treo 700 that I got from a friend a while ago. I wanted to mess with it but when I plugged it in, it gives me a low battery warning and shuts down. The battery doesn't work and wont charge and this even happens when there is no battery plugged in. is there any way to turn this off or get around it? thanks
Question by tvsamuel | last reply
I'm getting started with Stepper motors and I got one on ebay, it's MINEBEA NEMA23 2.5V/1.8 AMPS 1.8DEG/STEP (model# 23LM-C045-01H). I'm a bit confused by it's low voltage. Am I reading it correctly, it's 2.5Volts? Stepper driver that I have requires at least 8 Volts (it's Arduino with rugged motor driver shield), so is it safe to drive with motor with voltage of 9 or 12 volts? How would one drive such motor at 2.5VDC?
Question by bratan | last reply
I recently purchase some 3528 300p LED Strip Light so that I can make some under cabinet lighting. I wanted to make my own because I believe I can to it for a much better price and learn something in the process rather than buying an LED light set from a big box retailer. I have a 3 position rocker switch Off/high/low. If possible I would like to use the LED lights in a High/Low configuration. From what I read they make PWM modules that control the LED making them appear to be dimmable, but I do not want to use one of these devices. For the low setting I was considering wiring in a POT or an inline resistor to drop the Voltage to the LED's. On second thought I suspect that this would not work and if I drop the voltage too low this would result in inoperable LED's. By the way I would not be opposed using an inline resistor if this is a good way to reduce the light level Is there some cheap electronic component that will produce or simulate an approximate 50% PWM that I can wire inline with the switch, in effect producing a low lighting mode? I am not interested in using a variable PWM control, I just want to achieve a switchable high/low lighting. I am not familiar with components and I hope you could suggest a few ideas for my project. Some details: The led strip will be ~11 linear ft using 12VDC and about 40W of electricity.
Question by baudeagle | last reply