Search for Mountain Bike in Topics

Hi guys, I have an idea for a go anywhere buggy that I can use on mountain bike trails instead of my wheelchair. I have a very basic design of my idea and need advice on where to go from here. I have a very rough sketch of my idea. But I have no idea of how to use AutoCAD or do anything else with this fantastic little device. So I thought I would ask all of you guys for your input. In the attached sketch. The pink represents a rigid frame. The green is suspension. The black is bicycle tires appropriate for your needs. The blue is an adjustable net seating. And the gray is batteries and motors. However my son informs me that it is possible to put the motor in the hub of the wheel. Which sounds like an excellent idea to me! My idea is to hang the frame from the suspension above the wheels.  And balance the weight of the occupant(s) and the batteries. I think that this has potential for many other applications, but I just want to go play in the woods and the beach again!

I want to find instructions on making a sturdy folding mountain bike

Over the past month or so I have been building my own mountain bike, and the only things that are left to buy are a stem (which I will sort out at a later date) and clipless shoes.I am a size 7/8UK (with wide flipper feet...) and have a budget of around 40GBP.If anyone has any recommendations please let me know. EDIT: I took the plunge and spent over my budget (54GBP) but I was supporting a local bussiness and i got a nice chat.I went for a EU size 45 Shimano MO76 SPD. I have plenty of room to grow in them (width and length) yet, they fit me now because of the easily adjustable generic hook and loop fasteners.Apparently a EU45 is actually UK11! That is way bigger than my feet! Very strange.I had a little look around online and discovered that I got them 1GBP cheaper in my local shop! I am yet to thoroughly test these shoes, and when I do I shall report back...with vengance.

I'm designing a home made LED mountain bike light.  I Intend to use three CREE XPG 3UP stars which have three individual cree XPG LEDs mounted in series on a MCPCB star shaped board. Each individual LED when driven at 1500mA (the intended max current) will have a forward voltage of 3.5V. Therefore each 3UP MCPCB star will have a forward voltage of 10.5V when driven at 1500mA. If I wire the three MCPCB's in parallel the current drawn from the battery will be 4500mA - correct? I was planning to buy an 11.1V / 6000mAh rechargable lithium-ion battery pack.  The battery pack will be connected to the LED's via a b2Flex LED driver that limits the max current to 1500mA but can be set to run at 350mA, 700mA, 1000mA and 1500mA max by programming the b2Flex driver. The light will probably be set to max current for short periods of riding but spend most time at 1000mA.  Does anyone see any problems with the slight voltage overdrive (i.e 11.1V from battery vs. 10.5V that he LED's will theoretically require) I'd really appreciate any feedback on this. Cheers Todd.

I recently saw a show about extreme sports. This included mountain biking, street luge, and long-boarding (all of which I do) and it also showed mountain boarding. I had heard of it before, and I think that it would be very fun. But how much do they cost, and are they easy to use? I am willing to learn, but I cannot go out and spend $500 on one. Any info would be helpful, so please post! Thanks

I have a mountain bike that needs some year round riding so it is up to you poeple to help me out here. i thought of increasing the traction with zipties.

dessy.richard@yahoo.com bikeworld.world@gmail.com.Dear Customer, Rocky Mountain Eleme BilNEW 2008/2009 l Bike world Ltd is one of the leading bike distributors.We are Legitimate registered Company under licensed number(RC43315).We ship via FedEx,UPS or DHL, and your ordered items will get to your door step within 48 hrs(Two Working Day).We sell all kinds Cannondale, Cervelo, Ellsworth, Giant, Jamis, Klein, Kona, Litespeed, Rocky Mountain, Santa Cruz, Specialized, Trek, Gary Fisher bikes Here are some of our price list: NEW Cervelo P2C Ultegra Bicycle - 2008-CRV8P2CU....$2000 NEW 2009 Cannondale Road Tandem Bike....... $1,600 NEW 2009 Cannondale F4000 SL Mountain Bike..... $2,400 NEW 2009 Cannondale Gemini 900 Mountain Bike..... $1,200 NEW 2009 Cannondale Mountain Tandem Bike..... $1,200 NEW 2009 Cannondale Prophet 4000 Mountain Bike..... $2,600 NEW 2009 Cannondale R1000 Road Bike..... $1,000 NEW 2009 Cannondale Scalpel 3000 Mountain Bike.... $2,600 NEW 2009 Cannondale Six13 Team 1 Dura Ace Road Bike..... $2,400 NEW 2009 Cervelo Soloist Carbon Road Bike..... $2,800 NEW 2009 Cervelo P3 Carbon Road Bike..... $3,200 NEW 2009 Cervelo Soloist Team Road Bike..... $1,900 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Epiphany Mountain Bike..... $3,000 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Moment Mountain Bike..... $3,400 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Truth Mountain Bike..... $2,800 NEW 2009 Gary Fisher Cake 1 DLX Mountain Bike..... $1,700 NEW 2009 Giant Anthem 1 Mountain Bike..... $1,200 NEW 2008 Santa Cruz Blur LT Mountain Bike $2,200 NEW 2008 Santa Cruz Nomad Mountain Bike $2,000 NEW 2008 Santa Cruz V 10 Mountain Bike $2,200 NEW 2008 Specialized Demo 8 Mountain Bike $2,000 NEW 2008 Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon Mountain Bike $2,100 NEW 2008 Specialized Epic Comp Mountain Bike $1,150 NEW 2008 Specialized Epic Marathon Mountain Bike $1,700 NEW 2008 Specialized Roubaix Pro Road Bike $1,700 NEW 2008 Specialized Ruby Pro Road Bike $1,700 NEW 2008 Specialized S-Works Stumpjumper Fsr Carbon Bike $2,300 NEW 2008 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL Sram Road Bike $2,300 NEW 2008 Specialized S-Works Roubaix Dura Ace Road Bike $2,300 NEW 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Mountain Bike $1,000 NEW 2008 Specialized Tarmac Pro Double Road Bike $1,700 NEW 2008 Specialized Transition Pro Road Bike $1,700 NEW 2009 MARIN Juinper Trail Bike $900 NEW 2009 MARIN Wildcat Trail Bike $1,200 NEW 2009 MARIN Alpine Trail Bike $1,300 NEW 2009 MARIN East Peak Bikw $1,550 NEW 2009 MARIN Rock Springs Bike $1,300 NEW 2009 MARIN Rift Zone Bike $1,400 NEW 2009 MARIN Rift Zone SE Bike $ 1,300 NEW 2009 MARIN Wolf Ridge Bike $1,600 NEW 2009 MARIN Mount Vision Bike $1,800 NEW 2009 MARIN Attack Trail Bike $1,810 NEW 2009 MARIN Mount Vision Pro Bike $2,600 NEW 2009 Cannondale Road Tandem Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Cannondale F4000 SL Mountain Bike $2,300 NEW 2009 Cannondale Gemini 900 Mountain Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Cannondale Mountain Tandem Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Cannondale Prophet 4000 Mountain Bike $2,500 NEW 2009 Cannondale R1000 Road Bike $1,000 NEW 2009 Cannondale Scalpel 3000 Mountain Bike $2,500 NEW 2009 Cannondale Six13 Team 1 Dura Ace Road Bike $2,300 NEW 2009 Klein Q-Pro XV Road Bike $1,200 NEW 2009 Kona Dawg Primo Mountain Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Kona Kula Supreme Mountain Bike $1,800 NEW 2009 Kona Stinky Mountain Bike $1,000 NEW 2009 Kona Kula Lisa Mountain Bike $1,000 NEW 2009 Kona Four Lisa Mountain Bike $1000 NEW 2009 Kona Blast Deluxe - Gold - SRP $900 NEW 2009 Cervelo Soloist Carbon Road Bike $2,200 NEW 2009 Cervelo P3 Carbon Road Bike $2,200 NEW 2009 Cervelo Soloist Team Road Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Epiphany Mountain Bike $2,400 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Moment Mountain Bike $2,500 NEW 2009 Ellsworth Truth Mountain Bike $2,100 NEW 2009 Gary Fisher Cake 1 DLX Mountain Bike $1,400 NEW 2009 Giant Anthem 1 Mountain Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Giant Reign X0 Mountain Bike $1,700 NEW 2009 Giant Tcr Composite 1 Road Bike $1,400 NEW 2009 Giant Trance 1 Mountain Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Jamis Dakar XC Pro Mountain Bike $1,800 NEW 2009 Litespeed Bella Road Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Litespeed Ghisallo Road Bike $2,500 NEW 2009 Litespeed Niota Ti Mountain Bike $2,700 NEW 2009 Litespeed Tuscany Road Bike $1,700 NEW 2009 Rocky Mountain Element Team Mountain Bike $2,000 NEW 2009 Rocky Mountain Slayer 70 Mountain Bike $1,600 NEW 2009 Trek 5000 Road Bike $1,100 NEW 2009 Trek Pilot SL 5.9 Road Bike $1,800 NEW 2009 Trek Tandem T 2000 Road Bike $1,400 NEW 2009 Trek Madone SSL 6.9 Road Bike $2,800 NEW 2009 Trek Top Fuel SL Mountain Bike $2,800 Get back to me with your full order if you are really interested in buying from us via email regards,sales manager.

Hello all, Im looking to make a map holder for my husbands mountain and road bike, I have access to a fab lab. Any help much appreciated Thanks

I don't have access to a cutting torch, so I'm wondering, what could I use (cheap as possible!) to cut through the steel frame of an old mountain bike I have?

Where can i find a good cheap kit? what can i use for a engine? 

Just about to run a downhill mountain bike race. Need a switch to help record times at the bottom of the downhill. Has anyone got any ideas?

I just bought a biking helmet from walmart. it is fashioned more like a dirtbiking helmet because it has a wrap-around chin protector. but i also have just a regular helmet.  I like the one with the wraparound chin protector but i am concerned that it will be really hot in there. Can anyone shed some light on this? any ideas about the two types of helmets or preferences would be great.  Thanks!

I'm using a dual hitch carrier and have removed the wheels because they drag on lower cargo. How do I protect the chain and components on this lengthy haul (2,200 miles)?

Id like to set it up as if it was on car trailer hitch.Centered on the rear of the bike.Id like to have it supported on both sides of the frame.Anyone have any suggestions? I dont have any welding skills or equipment.

Hi folks ,as said above , would like to install a row of red high-power leds into the rear of my bike seat  post to give a hidden , high-tech look  :-). Elements of design to be considered ;  to run off  2-4 AA batteries , to use 5-7  5mm leds , to use        " off the shelf parts " , no hand built electronics , to have constant and flash modes , would consider adapting an existing product ( e.g. cateye light unit ) For the installation i intend to drill a row of 5.5mm holes , 25mm apart , with the led heads sealed in place just protruding the surface of the metal post. The led leads would be drawn up and out of the top of the seat post into the saddle area and is where the battery pack would be strapped in. Any electronics could be housed inside seat post or under saddle. A handle bar switch would be nice but not essential. I feel confident about the wiring and fitting of the components ( electrician by trade ) just need a pointer with the electronics. Cheers Pete.

I'm looking for a new bike that I can beat up and will keep going. I am looking at Trek but I need more options than that.

How to change the things on my bike

Hi there,In about a month I will receive my new electric longboard and I want to do a little upgrade which I saw on the internet, but I have some concerns about the glue they suggested since none did long term testing on it.So here is the idea:1. Get some MTB tire and cut it into strips with length same as circumference of the longboard wheel.2. Sand and clean with alcohol both surfaces3. Apply glue on both surfaces, push them together and keep it under medium pressure for at least 24 -48 hours til the glue cures.I saw 2 people who did this, one of them used some strong adhesive double sided tape, and the other some dollar store super glue (which is bad idea, after curing it becomes brittle, not really suitable for wheel), both of them wrote, that it held pretty well, but they did not ride it like this in long term.I got a good tip from someone to use E6000 glue, E6000 is strong, vibration proof, elastic, waterproof,... but it's more designed for wood and metal surface, which is not my case, since the longboard wheel is PU and the MTB tire is some kind of rubber.Things to keep in mind:1. Glue must withstand high pressure (105kg person standing on board where the weight is distributed to 4 wheels when standing still, now count with road cracks, turning,... where the pressure from the weight will skyrocket for few milliseconds) 2. Glue must withstand higher and lower temperatures and wet conditions, let's say the sun shines on the road whole day while ambient temperature is 35 degrees celsius, wheels will heat up, or in winter where the temperature of the road will be 5 or more degrees of celsius, Or if I ride through a puddle, same thing.3. Glue must absorb shocks, so it cannot be brittle when cured.What I came up on the internet there are 2 choices:1. E6000 (I have it at home, but currently I have no materials to test it)2. Permabond 731 (which I did not find in any online store in our country)Please suggest me at least 2 best possible glues.Before & After images in attachmentThank you

I am designing an electric bike (gas prices at $4 means I need one) and had a set of prerequisites to fill, and was wondering if anyone here could give me a quick hand. First thing is, I'd really like for it to have regenerative braking of some kind to extend the range, but am very unsure as to how to do this. I also plan on charging the bike at my school; so a built-in charging unit will be a necessity. I need a range of about 10-12 miles on a single charge, is this too much to ask? The plan is to use a pair of 12v 8 amp-hour Lead-Acid batteries (http://www.sciplus.com/recommend.cfm/recommendid/14608) and a 12vDC cordless drill motor to provide power. Is this too "weak" of a system? I have a 10-speed mountain bike that I'll be using as the base frame. Any help would be much appreciated.

Ok so i have a mongoose mountain bike, its silver and black , has a awesome stereo system , and some ok spokes is there some doable ways to make this bike better????????????

I want to get a mountain board, and make a new type of long board. I would like to put brakes from a mountain board onto the new long board. Do they work just like bike brakes? Help?

I ride a 2000 MGX DxR [yes, the crappy, chinese, walmart version] to work every day, road commuting. I also ride it off-road, singletrack, streams, washboards, you-name-it-I've-ridden-it, with no issues. thus far, I have put around 19,000 miles on it, all told. totally original [otherthan tubes, tires, chain, cassette, brakes, etc] parts, still weighs 38 pounds. Anybody else ride something as cheap and inappropriate as commuter? What do you ride every day? any bikes you'd LOVE to have? Any funny bike stories? Cheers,    B.E. 'Brick' Montgomery 

I don't really know where to buy bikes at, but I sure as Hell need one. I need to know where I can buy a simple, non-expensive bike for preferably under 80 dollars. No mountain bike or fancy stuff like that. Just a normal bike, if you know what I mean. Thanks in advance, yo.

The trailer must be light yet strong enough to carry a 16 ft canoe. The trailer must be detachable in order to fit in the canoe along with the mountain bike. I would like the trailer to be pulled from under the seat instead of the side rear axle area.

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I just had both set of brakes stolen off my mountain bike. Cost me about $80 to have them replaced. Is there any way I can lock the brakes to the bike so they can't be stolen again?

Having just rescued my nice GT from my parents' place, my old junker bike is now surplus to requirements. (I like to have a "spare" bike, but now I have three bikes it's literally a fifth wheel. And sixth.)I've wanted to build an electric bike or a recumbent for a long time, but despite fiddling with bikes for a while I'm still just a competent novice. A competent novice with very limited tools, in fact. Therefore I'm looking for a project like this uber-simple electric-assist (incomplete) or the no-weld recumbent. If anyone knows of any other projects like these, I'd like to see them.Pictures of the bike to follow- it's a fairly generic short-frame mountain bike, probably intended for dirt jumping as it's got a short geometry, thick downtube and a low seat/short seat tube. The front fork is a "suspension" fork with about 1" of travel and too much preload to be any use on roads, everything else is standard.

I'm converting an old mountain bike into a motorized dirt bike kind of thing using a small lawnmower engine. I want to know how to make a clutch that is simple and efficient.  Also I'm curious as to what kind of throttle will work on a lawn mower engine?

I think I have close to eleven bikes in my garage right now (sort of unfortunately), though I only really ride three. for road/ commuting, I have a pacific voyager toys-r-us mountain bike that I converted into sort of a timetrialing singlespeed, complete with a shimano 400 crankset, profile aerobars, champion bullhorns, a look carbon fork, alex 700cs with hutchinson tires, and lots of other ridiculous things that don't belong on such a frame. I ride a diamondback venom park bike for bmx which I found at a garage sale for five bucks, not knowing just how good it actually was and my gary fisher bitter has been decommissioned due to a faulty front hub which blew out my axle and almost ruined my fork, so I'm slinging around a specialized rockhopper on the trails whose back wheel I destroyed and as a result, I've replaced it with a wheel off a peice of crap magna my friend left at my house a while back. I've got several others, but these are my ladies. they come and go quite often for me, but that's what happens. so what are you riding?!

I think I have close to eleven bikes in my garage right now (sort of unfortunately), though I only really ride three. for road/ commuting, I have a pacific voyager toys-r-us mountain bike that I converted into sort of a timetrialing singlespeed, complete with a shimano 400 crankset, profile aerobars, champion bullhorns, a look carbon fork, alex 700cs with hutchinson tires, and lots of other ridiculous things that don't belong on such a frame. I ride a diamondback venom park bike for bmx which I found at a garage sale for five bucks, not knowing just how good it actually was and my gary fisher bitter has been decommissioned due to a faulty front hub which blew out my axle and almost ruined my fork, so I'm slinging around a specialized rockhopper on the trails whose back wheel I destroyed and as a result, I've replaced it with a wheel off a peice of crap magna my friend left at my house a while back. I've got several others, but these are my ladies. they come and go quite often for me, but that's what happens. so what are you riding?!

I just moved to San Diego, and my primary mode of transportation is my trust P.O.S. bike. it's a rather generic mountain bike, which worked fine in the relatively flat podunk i used to live in, but now in sandiego, most of the roads i need to travel are rather hilly, in fact, my appartment complex can't be reached without riding up a redonkulous hill. I'm looking for an E-bike conversion kit, to help me manage these hills, because it is treacherous at best. Does anyone know of an electric conversion kit with enough torque to haul me up a respectable bit of hill?

Standard mountain-bike-style straight handlebar, standard rubbery slide-on handgrips. Handgrips keep slowly migrating off the end while I'm riding. Clever solutions for keeping them in the same spot?

Okay i got this mountain bike and i want to make the back rim single speed but i cant take out the cassete. i search on youtube but it says need a special tool but i cant find one in town. so if anyone knos how to remove a casset without the special tool HUM:)

So I have this really nice 2010 specialized mountain bike, and I need a good bike lock for it. I have looked into making a chain lock, but I don't feel so good about it. right now I'm looking at both the Kryptonite evolution mini U lock and the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit mini U lock. both seem to have their ups and downs. the new york is considered the most secure lock in the world, but seems to be heavy and more expensive. the evolution is cheaper, but had been known to be able to break into with a pen. I can't really choose between the two. any suggestions? aslo I would like to hear of other good locks also. preferably sold secure gold. Thanks. *sorry to be picky.

I want to map out a mountain bike trail with lots of trees and valleys. I can't get a signal with my GPS. Any suggestions to boost the range?

I wanted to visit a scrap yard to pick up a bike(bmx or mountain) and some other scrap how and what rates do they charge?

I'm building a kickbike out of two mountain bikes. The goal is to do it without a welding kit. I'll have pics up soon. cheers, Dick Lawless

I was mountain biking and i had my thumbs under the gear shift so now i have blisters on the top of my thumbs -.-

Title says it...what did you get for christmas? i got a new mountain bike-specialized hardrock sport disc 2006

My bike is a standard mountain bike and I wanted to give it a more custom look than my paint job. I thought the best way to do this is to add a flamethrower to match my custom paint job which will be a red pinstripe around the flame, when the flame itself is grey. The flames will have skulls airbrushed in it. The rest of the body will be black with a little red pinstriping action. Maybe even some lettering reading : "Beast". probally with the same skull and red paint scheme. I want the flamethrower to fit in with everything else well, but I don't want to change the frame much, or paint the flamethrower.

I've been trying to upload a video to my instructable (https://www.instructables.com/id/EXTREME-Mountain-Biking-in-Your-Back-Yard/) but every time, it uploads completely then says http error and doesnt post the video. Any ideas on how to fix this?? Thanks!

Ok I need some help. I am a trail steward on a local mountain bike trail. We want to make a counter so we can find out how many folks are using the trail. I thouhgt I had a good idea, but can't seem to make it work. I have access to a bunch of garge door photo sensors(neighbors a garage door tech), and a bunch of thoes pocket pedometers(got them from a manager of a Mcdonalds when they stopped giving them out). I have figured out how to make the pocket counters work as just plain counters thanks to another instructable (remove hammer, wire across with a switch or relay...). What I have not been able to figure out is how to use the garage door sensors to make the circuit work. All I need is for the circuit to make a relay close to act as the switch for the counter. I was able to do it with an LED emmiter and detector and it's circuit, but for soome reason I guess the garage door sensors have something inside their glued box that won't let it work with the circuit. Any ideas?

My rear disk brake is in a sad state.  I squeeze the rear brake lever as hard as I can, yet, my stopping power is nil.  I wiped down the rotor with rubbing alcohol, but to no avail. It might also be relevant that I ride frequently in snow and slush, and also in dusty areas. The bike is the Specialized ''Rockhopper," 2009 edition, with about 450-550 miles put on it. What can I do to fix  the brake so that I won't have to rely on the front brake?

I got a craftsman 40cc chainsaw donated from work. Anyone got some ideas for what to use it as? Ive thought about powering a bike with it, using mountain bike gears. Ive thought about using it to make power for at my cabin. What kinda crazy 2 stroke powerd thing would you like to build or see built?

I went for a short ride today (20 miles - short, ha!) on my mountain bicycle to a local canal to go fish. I deplete water very quick, so I carried a half-gallon milk jug filled with ice. That, my fishing pole, and a few lures was all. The ride is close to 10 miles each way, and is completely on pavement. I rode on the road (with cars) for about 5 miles, and then there is an asphalt bike path set aside. There are hills, but most are somewhat gradual inclines. As I am still pretty out of shape, I was carrying a bit more weight than I would like. That little bike saddle is nearly hard as a rock, and it got quite uncomfortable around mile 18. Anyway, now my butt hurts really bad. It hurts a couple inches down from where my butt cra)'ck starts. Could I have injured my tailbone? Is this common for riders who aren't used to riding for so long? Is it because I sit upright? How could I prevent this? Thanks, Bran.

I am not one of nature's cyclists. I didn't actually learn properly until I was in my twenties. My bike is very old, very rusty and very, very heavy.However, I feel that I "ought" to cycle more, for shopping trips and the like. I quite like the idea of switching to a recumbent, but they are expensive (current available funds: zero).So, I'm playing with the idea of rebuilding my mountain bike into a recumbent (and learning how to weld on the fly?).In the sketch below;The black section is the back of the old bike, turned upside down.The blue section is the front of the donor bike.The red part would need fabricating somehow.I haven't thought properly about steering mechanisms, but probably under the seat, via cables to arms welded to the forks of the will-be-the-back wheel.Would the bike, as I have sketched it, in principle, work?I'm bothered about stability, especially at take-off and landing. Am I worrying unnecessarily? I have access to a second donor cycle. Is there any mileage thinking about "doubling up" the blue section, to make a trike? Not massively wide, but I could add luggage space, or an extra rear-facing chair-style seat.Brakes: before I cut up the bikes, am I right in thinking that I just remove the cables and levers from the handle-bars and add them to the under-seat steering?Gears: the donor bike is a mountain bike, but I never used all the gears anyway. This area is pretty flat - can I get away without any gears?Coasting: although the back of the donor bike ends up upside-down, it is still turning the same way, so I can still coast OK.I'm sure I've missed something obvious...Anyway, even though I've not decided to do this for certain, I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts.

I recently motorized a mountain bike and it is great.  I bet I can top 40MPH!!  Only problem is, I have no way of knowing for sure how fast I'm actually going.  I could buy a digital speedo for like $10-20 but I want the look of having a speed gauge on my bike, plus it's a little harder to read a digital speedo at a quick glance when the screen is like 2 inches long and wide!  I saw this mechanical speedo on ebay for $10-20, but some reviews of it on other sites says it breaks really easily, or as soon as it hits 30 MPH it goes crazy.  Does anyone know where I can get a reliable mechanical (analog) speedometer?

1. Always wear a helmet, wear body armor as well when needed (how much depends on course, and what you find to be suitable) at all times. 2. Look ahead of you. The faster you are going the further ahead you should look. 3. Stay focused and try not to concentrate or think while you are going at high speed, this tends to slow you down and/or cause accidents...practice alot and everything should come naturally with flow! - Before a run get a song or something that gets you "in the mood" in the back of your mind,and go for it - before you know it you'll be through the track/race no problem...you should all ready know the track turn for turn before doing this. 4. Make sure your tires have appropriate tread on them and are not cracking/damaged 5. Check your bike over in the parking lot before going up the lift. Ride it around and check the brakes and tire pressures. 6. Get enough sleep before riding and especially before racing. 7. Don't drink or get high before racing or riding (you can do it, and seen it done, but if you want to win or want to be safe...don't) 8. Stay relaxed and dialed in on the bike, be as relaxed as possible mentally before you start a race but be pumped physically at the same time. 9. Know the track as well as you can before racing it (the later steps will go into greater detail on how to do this). 10.Learn to 'pump through the ruff stuff'-pull up on the face and push down on the back side of bumps/rocks/landing trannys, etc... 11. Stay light on the back brake as much as you can and try to lock it as rarely as possible if at all...it may cause you to wash out. Only lock the brake on extremely sharp turns or to get into a turn if a cuttie won't be efficient enuff. 12. Try to go as fast as you can when you can-->PEDAL PEDAL PEDAL like a bat out of hell in the open or out of turns when/where ever you can. 13. Practice "cutties". 14. Buy the "Fundamentals" DVD available here on pinkbike.com or at most bike shops and study it...take notes if you have to. You will find how to do "cutties" on the DVD as well as many many more "fundamentals" for DH riding-----> BUY IT, you will be glad you did. 15.Off camber: make sure you weight your outside foot and stand the bike on the egde of the tire, that way it will stick 16. Rock gardens: the faster the better- you will bobble across the top and be on you way before you know it, rather than getting packed down and ending up with major arm pump. 17. Braking: only ever do real braking in straight lines, you can brake on corners but do it conservatively and only to slide around sharp turns better as it may cause you to wash out as mentioned above. The less you brake the faster you go and fast riding is a winning formula- think about that. 18. >>>Don't Crash It can have you out for the rest of the season and that can prevent you from winning races----obviously. Just dont ride like an idiot and attempt things that will probably end in you getting hurt. Ride within your limits! 19. (Words of Pro Down hiller Steve Peat from the "fundamentals" DVD mentioned above) "Stay as light as you can on the bike and pump through the back side of rocks or rough sections as a skateboarder pumps a vert ramp" to gain or maintain speed and momentum. 20. Trust your tires throughout the course. If you believe and have faith in your tires grip, chances are they will have grip fine. If you don't trust your tires and BELEIVE that they wont grip and you will probably fall, chances are they won't grip and as a result you will indeed fall. 21. Walk the track and look for new lines or which lines are best to take and are the fastest 22. Tuck when ever possible to conserve energy. Pedal hard in the open spots before the ruff stuff then tuck and pump and repeat. 23. True your wheels to increase your speed and pedalling efficiency 24. Don't use big fat mud bog tiresfor DH(i.e. 2.6"-3.0") EVER...unless your DH course happens to be a downhill mud swamp 25. Learn to brake with out losing traction , this helps in straight line braking before turns. 26.Push yourself in the warmups, (not stupidly) and give 95% of what your maximum was when you were pushing yourself, in the actual race. This way you wont fall, but you are still hauling a$$. 27.Practice shift points, it is very important to be in the right gear at the right time or youll be sucking wind trying to pedal a flat stretch in too high of a gear. On a fast stretch where you need to begin pedaling to maintain that speed, youll be spinning out. Know what gear to start in and what gear you need to be in at every point in the track. 28. If all else fails look fast across the finish line where everyones watching. 29.When learning, set your fork/and or shock harder than you would normally, this will teach you to use to body rather than relying upon the bike. 30. Try to pick memory markers for your self; tree stump, odd looking rock, etc... and break the course down in your head so you can become very quick overall. 31. Practice simple skills such as manuals (good for roots), Hops, roots/rocks) and of course cutties 32. Commit to berms, brake on a berm and it will end it tears, aim to "rail the berm" to do this - hit the berm at a speed that isnt too fast (this will cause you to slip up it) and not to slow (you will slip down and is slower duh) The ideal speed should carry you round as g forces will push you into the berm. 34.Take a couple of the "Learn to race" clinics offered before many of the sanctioned races. 35.Play with your set up, everything from seat angle, to brake postioning- it can all make a big difference. The more comfortable you are on the bike the faster youll go, the steepness can be different for each course(for instance) so tweak it a little each time but dont EVER change your entire setup before a race. 36.When walking the course, look back up at it. You will find new lines looking up rather then down. 37. While riding (including in the air) never squeeze the seat with your knees. This makes it impossible to flow smoothly, and makes you a ridged weight to be tossed around at the mercy of the trail. It may feel safer, but it will cause you to wreck and lose speed when you would not otherwise. In the air also, it you pinch your seat then you can not compress the lip and extend for landing. Also you can not whip and prepare for upcoming turns and bumps. The ONLY time that pinching your seat would be appropriate is when doing a suicide no hander which, if you can do it without loosing speed, is a cool way to entertain the crowd. 38.Learn to crash,it is an important skill to have that will save you alot of trouble in the long run. 39. Work your way up to the big stuff. Even if you are a good rider always warm up on an easier trail then go for the harder stuff you set out to conquer. Same for riding in general- dont go tackle the hardest trail on the mountain without first being able to do the easy ones---this may sound somewhat obvious but alot of people just cant get this bit of logic into their skulls without being told directly. 40. If the drop doesn't have a great tranny, hit it with more speed. this will cause you to have increased foreward momentum and less downward ( static ) momentum and make the landing smoother. let your bike go off the drop first. 41. If you are in the air ( off a jump drop or whatever... ) and your back end starts to dip too much, tap your back brake, this will cause the front end to dip forward. ( this is used all the time in Motocross) WARNING: Use this with caution and only when its a neccesity. 42. XC riding will make you faster. I always love watching the out of shape downhillers crossing the finish line and nearly having a hear attack. The more tired you are the more mistakes you make and the more likely you are to get hurt. Pedal! Then pedal more! 43. Train like a mofo. During my DH racing times I would spend the summer mornings doing 5-8 runs on local dh trails then dirt jumping and XC riding in the afternoon= Legs that were strong/fast as hell. Dont forget to train in the off season too. 44. Develop a training schedule not just for biking and racing but to keep in shape in general. The more you ride the better you will be. Like Ito was saying, do as much of each mountain biking discipline as possible with emphasis on Down hill. Cedric Gracia wins because he is a great all around rider as is Minaar. 45.Commit to the front end of your bike in corners. Watch Sam Hill, no-one does it better. NOTE: BEFORE DOING THIS, make sure you have practiced it and know how to do this technique at speed (Note is courtesy of Iceboy) 46. Don't pedal like a mad man out of the gate. Pedal, but let your bike gather speed and focus on keeping it. Racing comes down to one thing - exit speed , in particular your speed out of corners. Wait until you feel the flow before you start pushing it harder. If you pedal too hard from the start you'll flip in 60 seconds and get back on your bike a go harder to make up the time. Then you'll flip again. Speaking from experience on this one! It's all about being 'zen'. At least that's what all the dudes who keep beating me are telling me. Learn how to go as fast as you can through turns and sections to know your limits. 47. Make your riding FEEL slow when you are going fast! If you feel fast it's because the trail is catching up with you too quickly for you to process all the info in a comfortable time frame. Probably because you are too busy worrying about going fast and not feeling the flow. Look out, you are about to flip. It's that zen thing you're missing. 48. Practice having FLOW in all your riding, down hill (speed as well as flow), Dirt jumps (flow), XC(speed and flow), what ever (FLOW)... 49.Dont be intimidated by other riders, stay focused on what you have to do not what they are doing, if they crash pay atention to why, and try not to make the same mistake. 50. Learn to go over jumps at as high a speed as possible with out overshooting or losing speed by going too high. Jumps and learning to land them without thinking is a VERY beneficial skill to have... (if you want to stay low coming of jumps learn to soak up the lip...you will go just as far but you'll stay lower) 51. When doing a j-hop, bunny hop or going up the face of a jump don't forget to push into the ground and then come up to get more air. 53. The rougher the place you are riding the more ralaxed and flowy you should be trying to go . 54. Spend time at the track and just watch other riders(especially how they are going through the tricky sections that you are having trouble with), see what they are doing wrong and try to not make the same mistakes, also watch for where the speed spots of the section are. 55.Read Brian Lopes's & Lee McCormick's book " Mastering Mountain Biking Skills", this book covers everything you need to know in great detail from top to bottom, it is with out a doubt the most comprehensive guide for how to ride/race mountain bikes and how to handle and practice everything involved in riding. I HIGHLY RECCOMEND IT, and would say that it is the BIBLE for Mountain Biking! 56.Look where you want to go not at what you are trying to avoid. if you stare at the tree you are trying to go around instead of the trail around it you will more often than not hit the tree. 57. As mentioned previously-The faster you are going the further ahead you should look, always look at what lies further ahead when riding downhill AND avoid staring at your front wheel--staring at your front wheel will slow you down drastically and often will lead to crashing. 58.To re-inerate what Harding.Thomas was saying; do not focus on obstacles like stumps logs and rocks, because thats were you will go instead of where you want to go. In essence, keep an eye on where you want to go and you will go there. Do not look down at what your riding over, let your bike deal with the terrain, thats what its for. This is a very important tip to increasing speed and improving flow. 59. Before you go riding, I find that a simple 10 minute warm up on flat land and practicing tight turns and j-hops helps loosen you up and calms you down If you have any other tips, tell me! ill post them in the list.

I am building a recumbent trike like the one in the picture (which happened to be my inspiration once I saw it on the gallery of northerntool.com). I will be using 2.5 inch fence post for the frame, a mountain bike, a chair/desk from my school, and various other parts. I plan to make an instructable once I'm done (don't worry, I'll take pics). The pipes won't be bent, but rather welded at angles. The back wheels will be 10" pneumatics. I have a pretty solid idea in my mind of how I'm going to do it, but it won't materialize until I get off my lazy butt (I've been mulling this project over for a few weeks now) and make the sparks fly. Oh yeah, almost forgot. This is green because it will make me feel more inclined to use human powered transportation.

Hi, the bike i brought from the u.s. over here to europe is falling apart (like me). latest issue: the cleats as well as the mtb-clips of the pedals are simply worn-out. i looked around online for new parts. that sh it is expensive. a friend of mine down in the valley has a welder... i am wondering if i can weld some seam back on (either cleats or fixtures, or both), and the file/ grind it into shape..... anybody doing that? thanks, yodler, from the mountains in spain.