I am in extreme need for pvc i n need them but my busget cant afford them ):
Topic by Ilija Miljkovac | last reply
Hi I live in England but i have no idea where to get pvc, there are loads of projects I would like to do that involve it but I just can't seem to get hold of it. I've tried B&Q plus a few others but they don't seem to have it. Does anybody know where it is sold?
Topic by pyro-jim | last reply
Hi, I need to make 10 garden carts. They have to be light weight, capable of handling 400-600 lbs, have a 4' x 5' adjustable height platform, and on casters. I was thinking about making the supporting structure out of a high tensile strength poly vinyl rectangular or square tubing. Anyone know of a source??? Thanks
Question by mtn826
I'm lookin to make an air powered pvc cannon/gun/bomb. I want an explosion!!! I just need uh... "guidance" (if thats a word) on how to make one. I don't need a 50lb, 10 ft long nuclear warhead. I'm lookin for small, simple, cheap, and all at the same time HIGH POWERED AND well... uh... slightly illegal, or something...
Question by Jacko13 | last reply
So I was thinking of building a catamaran out of two pieces of PVC pipe, either 6 inch or 8 inch. I don't know how long it would have to be to support me or maybe others. Does anyone know of a buoyancy calculator I could use to try to figure this out? Or maybe I could use ABS plastic. This is very easy to heat and bend. This way I could actually shape it a little more, instead of having it just be round and less controllable.
Topic by psi3000 | last reply
Hi, I'm a soccer coach. I'd like to make some inexpensive posts to serve as obstacles/markers that I can use indoors. I have 5' pvc pipe, but can't seem to locate or concoct something to hold the posts upright both affordably and that aren't too wide to get in the way of the players or the soccer ball. Ideally, I'd have something that is only a few inches wide with a 3/4" hole in the center to hold my 3/4" pvc. Thus far, the best thing I can come up with are a few 2.5/5lb thick plastic weight plates where the center hole happens to be just about 3/4" wide. Those seem to quite difficult to come by though! The next closest thing I've found were either heavy steel flanges or rubber mounts specifically designed to hold plastic posts. At $8 or more/each though, I was hoping to find something a little less expensive. Anyone have any ideas?
Topic by DDallen | last reply
I've been trying to find a bag to easily transport a project made out of PVC after it's be disassembled. The longest piece is 5ft. My first thought was one of the bags used for the colorguard flags, but those don't fit a whole lot. There has to be someone on here that's run into this problem before. Maybe someone has figured out a good way to carry PVC that isn't a bag? Any ideas?
Topic by JaredsProjects | last reply
I could use a little help. I'm looking for some way to make fairly precise cuts in 6" PVC. ( Don't ask, it's complicated. But not pressurized or anything dangerous. ) I tried a side cutting bit in a drill, it worked but wobbled side to side too much to make decently straight cuts. I'm thinking something like a jigsaw, but much smaller, also right-angle style would be good. I've been checking out this site for awhile now so, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, I don't want to make one out of an Altoid's box ! :) Any ideas ?
Topic by ComfortablyPlum | last reply
I see a lot of projects that use or re-use different grades of PVC pipe due to its easy use and availability. Free or cheap PVC seems to be a good material choice for those who lack the tools and skills needed for metal or wood work. I suggest that builder rethink this choice. Exposure to PVC is dangerous to your health. Fumes and dust from cutting, drilling and accidental burning or overheating PVC are known to cause cancer.A few points:PVC production is the largest use of chlorine gas in the world.Chlorine production consumes enormous amounts of energy.Chlorine production causes mercury pollution. Hazardous by-products are formed throughout the PVC lifecycle.By-products of PVC production are highly persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic.PVC is extremely difficult to recycle.PVC is one of the most environmentally hazardous consumer materials ever produced.source: http://www.healthybuilding.net/pvc/ThorntonPVCSummary.htmlDifferent grades of PVC have different melting points, flash and glass temperatures. At 70-80 Degrees C (~150 F), most grades begin to soften and degrade in performance. This should be taken into account when building projects that involve any kind of direct or indirect heat, including hot water, etc.(I've edited this post to contain more useful information)
Topic by toxonix | last reply
I know there are already instructables that show how to build a PVC flagpole, however what I need to build is different. I want to build a flagpole that is 15-20 feet tall and can withstand relatively strong winds. In addition, it needs to be portable and be able to be disassembled, so the sections of PVC can be no longer than 5-6'. I am worried that just using standard PVC connectors to connect the different sections will not be strong enough to withstand the wind. This flag will be placed in the sand on a beach facing the ocean, so a 15-20' tall flagpole will need considerable strength. I figured I would use a 5 gallon bucket filled halfway with cement as the base, and then bury the base in the sand so it is sturdy on the bottom. From there, I am having trouble coming up with alternative ways to attach the sections of PVC (besides connectors) that will withstand high winds and not snap. Do you think the connectors will in fact be strong enough? If not, are there any good alternatives? Lastly, would drilling holes into the PVC (to attach eye hooks) compromise the strength of the PVC too much?
Topic by fanttamdiv | last reply
I'm installing a new heater for a spa and am having trouble hooking up the plumbing. I am using 2" PVC and have built the whole manifold from the filter to the heater and to the return to the spa, but I can't figure out how to hook it up to the existing pipe that returns the hot water to the spa. It sticks up about 5" out of the cement pad where all the equipment is located, but it's not a standard size/shape. It's shaped like a car radiator's hose nipple with a bulge between two narrower bits so that you could put a hose over it and clamp it behind the bulge but i'm trying not to do it that way since the hoses that are used with PVC aren't meant for pressure or heat. That is how it was originally hooked up but when I took it apart the hose was all deteriorated on the inside. None of the exposed part is a standard size where I could just cut it and bond a coupling on. I was thinking about trying to use a radiator hose but don't know what the spa chemicals would do to it.?
Question by siamonsez | last reply
The PVC soil pipe under our bathroom has developed a slow leak. This pipe is inaccessible as it runs under a platform that lifts the bathroom above the concrete floor of our enclosed garage. It may be a crack in the pipe (unlikely) or a connection between the tub and the main pipe (more likely). Is there a liquid sealant that I can pour into the tub drain that will seal this obviously small opening?
Topic by GorillamoRex | last reply
Hey guys, I've been looking around at making an electric cello (or perhaps violin, but we'll focus on the cello) and I found a few random sites that had instructions for that... but then I ran into this:https://www.instructables.com/community/Homemade-Holidays-Winners-Announced_1/(scroll down to see 'pvc cello') However the link doesn't work anymore! Can anyone help me find instructions on how to build one??Or perhaps the location of instructions that can help you build these: http://www.halcyon.com/jensmus/scello.htmThanks!!
Topic by Vitron | last reply
I have a question for spudgunners and other people who know about PVC. I've heard that PVC becomes bitter at low temperatures, so you shouldn't expose your spudgun to low temperature, but is it okay to leave it out in the cold and then warm it back up for use later? Does that affect the strength of the PVC? I have a problem storing some PVC in an heated environment during the winter.
Topic by starwing123 | last reply
Hello out there, I'm thinking of building a bed from PVC pipe for my 2 1/2 year old so I can move his one year old sister into his crib. I'm doing some rough sketches of how i want it to look (and I don't have a scanner or the skills to do it in Sketchup) and I was wondering if the community could help me figure out a few things. If it doesn't have the the following criteria helping me out my wife may not let me know do it. First is it has to be weight bearing enough to hold at least one adult on the bed with him if we lay down with him. Two strong enough for him to jump on. Third; cost effective! With all the connections it can add up really quickly and I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy him a bed and skip the hero dad bit. Thoughts?
Topic by ncaplan | last reply
I have put together a very well documented guide, to build your own pneumatic PVC can crusher. This can crusher is constructed from easy to find parts at any local hardware store. For more information, and a video of it in action check out my website. Let me know what you think, Thanks http://cancrusherguide.webs.com/
Topic by GOHST RIDER | last reply
I'm trying to build a bed loft type thing similar to this I'm thinking about using pvc pipe though because its cheaper/easier, but my only worry is if it will hold weight. I want to put a hammock on the bottom (occasionally 2 people so ~250lbs) and a piece of plywood on top to make a shelf. Thanks
Topic by zaza410 | last reply
Anyone know how to make a PVC pipe Coin Dispenser Belt? Push a button & out pops a coin from one of fore tubes hanging on your belt. I need to know what size pipe to use, how the triggers work to spit the coins out & how to put it all together.
Topic by elkaddalek | last reply
I was thinking about it from a long time but I cannot get the answer
Question by absingh | last reply
Dear: Instructables community Hello this is me Noah with another project of mine. Just to let you know I am making a PVC bow and I am having trouble following a step in this video on the internet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ib_hH49p6g Honestly I thought the video seemed like it could work but the second last step isn't working for me. It involves using 1" PVC pipe to slid over 3/4" PVC pipe. What I did was I cut through one side of the PVC and it still wouldn't slide through all the way. Then I began using a rubber mallet with some 3/4" wrench and it still won't work. Honestly guys he never explained how to slide the pipe through and he just said to do it. How do I slide the 12" pipe in the middle of 60" pipe? Thank you. From: Noah UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Dear: Instructables community Just to let you know problem solved. I have no idea how necessary putting the PVC pipe over that but I think the problem is solved. I think I am going to use something else for a grip. Thank you guys for everything!!! From: Noah
Topic by nschreiber0813 | last reply
I was looking at all the excellent instructables about marshmallow guns, but I have a concern. I'm Canadian, and it seems to me that the inner diameters of 1/2" PVC pipe in the US is larger than 1/2" PVC in Canada. So, could someone in the know please straighten this out? Is there a difference or not? If so, what would be the appropriate substitute size? Thanks to all.
Topic by Spongeloaf | last reply
I recently learned about Con-Tact brand chalkboard contact paper, which I think it really cool! You can cover a surface in it and write with chalk. I thought it would be cool to use a laser cutter to cut the paper into shapes, letters, etc. and put it on the walls. Alas, after contacting the manufacturer, it turns out to be made of PVC (vinyl). Laser cutting PVC produces chlorine gas, which besides being toxic, is also highly corrosive and bad for the laser cutter. Anyone know of an alternative that's not made of vinyl or PVC? It doesn't need to be big like contact paper, and it doesn't need to be chalkboard-like either (for chalkboard stuff there's paint), but I'm most interested in some kind of material I can cut into shapes and stick onto walls and other things. Thanks for any ideas!
Topic by joshme | last reply
I am thinking of building a fish tank out of clear PVC pipe, and I need clear PVC. it would need to be at least four inches wide, preferably six to eight inches. I would need probably about ten feet, the more the merrier . Does anyone have any, or do you know where I can get it cheap (and by cheap, I mean under a hundred dollars)? thanks!
Topic by elliot5445 | last reply
Hi, I am a geocacher and I recently saw a youtube video of a cache container that was a 2 inch PVC pipe. At the bottom, the cap had a tire valve in it. When you pumped up the container, a pill bottle came out the top. I have attempt to build something like this but nothing seems to work. The pill bottle will not rise. Can anyone help me with what I am doing wrong? Thanks, Kent
Topic by tkuhrich | last reply
Ok, here's one I thought I'd throw open to the masses.... I'm knocking off the last of a fully automated self-sufficient watering system that runs completely off grey/rainwater. However, the coke can guttering is not working in this position as it has previously :( I was thinking of using PVC piping, cut lengthwise for guttering. However, I'm working out the logistics of cutting it. It can't be cut directly in half - this would be too shallow to catch the runoff from the chicken shed. and funnel it down to the tanks, so I'm looking at removing a chunk of the top. And I also have no table saw. Wheee. What I do have Dremel (x2) with associated cutting wheels Jig saw (With associated plastic cutting blades) Circular Saw Mitre saw Hand saws (tenon, crosscut, hack, pruning, etc) So, here's one that I'm throwing open. With the tools I have, how would you do it? I'm leaning towards the dremel, but there would probably be issues with maintaining a straight line (not that I care about some warp, it's a gutter) Ideas? *EDIT* Ended up using a jig saw with an acrylic cutting blade. Worked a treat.
Topic by taleya | last reply
There are still people out there playing with high voltage.And one big problem when it comes to Tesla coils is winding the secondary coil.Now, I won't go into the details and options of the actual winding part, instead I would like to share some tricks that might make things easier for your project.Whether you wind fully by hand or make use of some mechanical winder, magnet wire is a very slippery thing on PVC.For that reason and some others we usually wind as tight and close as possible.Any leftover spaces that you find after the winding is finnished will severly compromise the overall tension of the wire in this region if fixed.Next problem is what many call aging.No matter how good you coat your coil with varnish or paint it will start to degrade over time.I found a simple fix for these problems :)Well, not really that simple but I am too lazy today to make a full Instructable for just an addition that everyone can make in a few minutes....Let me start with idea behind it all:I noticed that no matter how thick the pipe or wire is that there is little to no chance at all to get any of the coating material through the wire and all the way down to the PVC.One coil failed after I abused it so I did some cuts and had a close look with a magnifying glass.The coil itself was really good covered but it was like a sleeve that sits on the PVC with nothing on the underside of the wire except for a few single spots.Some people will now say to just a much thinner mix for the coating to allow the stuff to sweep through but that does not always work.One big issue I noticed is that not all paints or varnishes actually stick to PVC.Especially those non smelling eco friendly ones most places now sell.This means when the coil expands due to the vibrations and heat the wire can simply rattle off the varnish or the coating itself can crack under the stress.So I thought there must be a way to fix this right at the winding stage....PVC is a good insulator too!So why not use PVC instead of messing with other things?My first attempt here works quite well with thin wire and goes like this:Go outside with your winding rig and have a bottle of PVC primer and a little brush or sponge ready as well as some gloves.If you have use a friend, if you have none make a small rig to hold the sponge right in front of your winding area.The key is to keep the sponge wet with the primer so it will wet the pipe properly.Best is to have the speed and distance set so the surface just starts to dry off under the wire.The primer will cause the PVC to soften, so the wire slightly sinks into the surface.An automatic winding rig is best here as it allows for consistency.There is no too much or too little here is nothing drips terribly and your wire sticks without fully sinking in.Once done you can cover the winding with your prefered coating.For thicker wire, lets say 0.3mm or thicker, I now use a similar way but with more preperations:Using some very rough sandpaper on a belt or vibrating sander I create a small pile of PVC dust.If you prefer some fancy color you can use ABS plasic here too and it dissolves in a similar way.The resulting mix should be free of lumps and of even color, if in doubt use more primer.Consistency should be a bit thinner than honey, if yours is too thin you can add more ABS/PVC or let the primer evaporate off while stirring it every now and then.To get a good start I do a few turns dry first with quite a big spacing.When approaching the actual start of the winding area I use some stick tape to make the last alignment and start to apply the mix onto the first bit of the winding area.Some lint free cloth with a bit of primer is used to wipe off any excess towards the still uncovered part of the pipe.Every time the mix on the pipe dries out too fast a brush with some primer is use to wet it.Every time the excess runs out a bit more mix is applied onto the wound area.The key is to only have a small area in front of the winding covered with mix with the most is on the winding and "cleaned" off towards the empty area.This way the entire wire is covered by PVC all around.To finnish off you simply use a brush and paint the mix onto the rotating coil until you have an even finnish.What are the downsides?The primer stinks and is certainly not healthy to breathe in. So good ventilation is a must have and it works better in colder temeratures as it gives you more time.It might require some test runs with braided fishing line or similar to get a feeling for how much mix or primer you need to apply and how much max tesion you can use to preven the wire from sinking in.Any benefits?IMHO using this method makes it possible to get a proper bond between the PVC pipe and the wire.And by using PVC or ABS as the coating there is little to no change material properties.This in return gives far less chances for vibrations or wire expansions that result in failing insulations.The whole thing just is one piece of PVC with the wire embedded in it instead of having a wire on top of the PVC with some coating above. ;)Are there alternatives to the PVC primer?If Acetone is much cheaper than you can use it but the same safety measures apply and the mix might dry a bit quicker.What if I need a break or stop the winding for one reason or another?Simply wipe off all access and stop with just enough tension on the wire so you can star again with no problems.Then start by wetting and applying the mix and continue winding as before.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Hi, I'm trying to source some PVC piping in Germany, the fairly thin type that seems to be used in a lot projects on here. I've tried my local Baumarkt, Obi, and while the have some rather thick grey piping of the type that's used for plumbing, it's not really suitable for what I want, and the range of connectors is not ver comprehensive. Could anyone let me know of a supplier for this stuff that would deliver to Germany? Thanks for reading!
Topic by JoL29 | last reply
Hello, I would like to know if anyone has any advise about building a 3d printer with 1/2 inch pvc piping. The pipe will be used for the rails, because they are cheaper than metal rods. I want to modify t connectors so that they are what slides along the pipe.The pipe will be parallel, and held together by right angle elbows. I will mount it on a flat board. Is there any problems I may encounter? Thanks for any help.
Question by jbaker22 | last reply
Hmm... What would it be like to replace a physical switch with a touch sensitive switch. Instead of using a beam of light to detect a triggering, we use a illuminated transparent PVC plastic. This allows the interface to be more flushed into the wall. How it will work, is that by touching the transparent plastic, you allow a small amount of light to escape. The circuit will detect this drop in light level and trigger the switch. Pros: it looks cool, and is of lower maintenance than a physical switch. Its also cheaper then other options such as capacitive sensing Cons: it can have false readings due to the use of light as a sensing medium.
Topic by akimbo m | last reply
A while back I had made a HHO generator or electrolysis device. I had run it a little bit and then left it for about two months in a bucket because it had a small leak. Salt crystallized on the outside some and when I opened it, there was a large glob of some milky white jelly like substance, any ideas?
Question by jj.inc | last reply