Protect steel without paint.

I decided to try my hand at making jewelry with a cheap piece of steel. Partly, because of price and partly due to not being able to find a large enough piece of stainless. It turned out great. However I know it will rust if I don't protect it somehow. I'd prefer not to paint it l, because of the work to buff it to a high shine. Any ideas on how to protect it from rusting when in contact with skin?

Question by BernardR23 


Can I produce an image in Microsoft Paint and assign that image to a "hotkey"?

I would like to use that image as a character in the password for my computer. This is so a dictionary program wouldn't be able to break through a password for my computer. Is this possible?

Question by LeShane   |  last reply


How do I paint plastic containers, and then protect the surface?

Plastic containers like milk containers, for example.

Question by madhs   |  last reply


What type of paint to use for painting a landscape art painting on a refrigerator (with brushes)?

I would like to paint an actual painting on the front of my refrigerator. I need to know what kind of paint to use for a base coat and then what types of paint I could use for the details. Spray paint is not an option for this, I need to be able to paint with brushes, and all I'm finding online is "how to go from white to black" etc.? Also, if I should use some kind of topcoat to protect the final product.

Question by  


Spray Paint Drying

I'm hoping someone here knows something about spray paint. Specifically why some spray paints seem to take forever and a day to dry. In the attached picture the paint on the left (Metallic) dried quickly, within about 45 minutes whereas the paint on the right (Gloss Protective Enamel) is still so wet at 24 hours that I can scratch it with my thumb nail. FYI, I used both paints, one right after the other, on the same kind of metal. So if someone could let me know why some paints dry slower than others and which kind of paints to avoid if I'm in any sort or a rush I would be most appreciative. Thanks

Topic by astro347   |  last reply


Without paint - Protect Steel from Weather + Rust

Sometimes I'd like to protect steel from moisture without paint.  Partly this is a practical matter. Figure I'll weld somethin else on sooner or later, and would rather not deal with burning paint. Partly it's an aesthetic. Not long ago, saw a 50s pickup that someone was in process of restorin.  Just gorgeous while it was stripped of all paint. So... Linseed oil?  Wax? Or option C thru Z?

Topic by Toga_Dan   |  last reply



Krylon Spraydown

Mike from Instructables teamed up with Mark Clement from MyFixtitUpLife to reorganize their garage space to get it ready for winter & the upcoming football season!! Check out this awesome video where Mike and Mark show how Krylon Rust Protector seals and protects a variety of surfaces. Find more Krylon Spraydown projects here and check out the PDF attachments below for step-by-step tutorials.

Topic by Carleyy   |  last reply


What is the best way to go about painting a metal desk?

I recently picked up an old all steel office desk for use in my own house. I have been trying to paint it with mixed results and will be starting over. It used to have a baked on paint finish but I had stripped and sanded all of that off. I primed and painted it but when I went to put a protective layer on it the desk seemed to eat it, leaving me with a dull rough surface that did not protect at all. I used rustoleum spraypaint in everything, from the primer to the enamel. (I had tried to use laquer before the enamel because I had it my head that was correct.) So far I haven't had any luck in finding any real instuctions from start to finish for painting on metal and am just looking for anyhelp in getting the desk to look nice and have a good even protective surface. Thanks

Question by Captain Zesh   |  last reply


New Idea but I don't know how to make it

Hey all, I was just looking at some photos on some photographers website in a series called Beautiful Decay. I had looked at maybe two or three when I suddenly had an idea. I know some various ways of aging things, primarily metal, but there is one style of aging which must technically be possible but I am coming up with only a few possibilities as to how to do it on my own: flaking paint. So far I have thought of dabbing on paint thinner before spraying to make it have a weak bond to the surface or adding powder (probably whatever the surface is, just ground up) for the same effect and then with the weak bond simply sweeping over the area with a broom several times to flake the paint. These seem like they would be hard to make seem natural. a second idea that kind of fits in is fake rust. By that I mean that the surface looks old and rusty (get your tetanus booster kind of thing) but is actually fully protected from the elements. Any ideas you have are welcome and I thank you for them in advance.

Topic by finfan7   |  last reply


I just sanded and painted dinning room chairs black. Now I want to protect/seal them. What should I use? Answered

I also striped, sanded and stained the table. I will apply my second coat tonight. What should I use to give it the glossy finish and also protect and seal it? Thanks in advance.?

Question by tarverlee   |  last reply


Best Clear coat type?

Hello craftsmen! I like making props and thing from games and media i play, such as Corvo's sword from Dishonored. However, i have a problem with protecting them. After painting them with either acrylic spray or brush paint, I need a clear coat to protect it. I would prefer to use a aerosol paint, due to the ease and lack of smudging it gives. I generally use acrylic paint, either applied by brush or spray cans onto wood, pvc and metal. Does anyone know a good brand or type they use? I would prefer something available in the international markets and in places like dubai, singapore, india, etc. Thanks for reading, and please help!

Question by Adithyaa Designs   |  last reply


Concrete stepping stones

I have made some concrete stepping stones (for decorative use in flower beds mainly) and have painted them to give them a detailed look. I used exterior paint,  Now I'm wondering what I should use to seal them to protect the paint from chipping and fading?

Topic by Gdlucas   |  last reply


Custom Etched Halloween Tombstone

I created this custom etched Halloween tombstone using builder's foam, latex paint and spray paint. The method of creation is to use a water based paint to create a resist that will protect the foam from dissolving when painted with the spray paint. This technique works really well to create the weathered stone look that older limestone monuments take on after a couple hundred years. For this project I was trying to create a broken then repaired tombstone that was partially covered in moss. Project Process - First sketch the design layout using a marker. Then paint the areas that you want to remain un-etched. Next, spray the entire face tombstone with a heavy, even coat of spray paint. It will take a few minutes... but the face will be etched as much as 1/2" deep depending on how heavy a coat of spray paint. After the etching paint has dried, paint the entire tombstone with latex primer and then add any desired painted effects. For this project, I used a grey granite spray paint and then added sand that was painted a moss green color (adhering it with spray adhesive). Total active work time was approximately 2 1/2 hours. A full Instructable of this project to follow soon...

Topic by jamestown   |  last reply


How can I polish and rust-protect a steel file cabinet? Answered

I asked a question on how to sand a steel file cabinet down to a mirror finish a couple of weeks ago and got a lot of great answers. I tried some of the suggestions. What worked best was an orbit sander, starting at 60 and going up to 400. At 400, I could see a pretty good reflection of myself with no scratches.I could have made it perfect if I had kept doing that all over the whole file cabinet.Unfortunately, it would have taken forever to get all the scratches out because while I was learning how to sand it and trying out different tools, different sanding techniques, I made too many scratches. For example I used a belt sander on one entire side, thinking that would be faster. It was faster, but it left deep cuts all over. I had started by sanding off some of the paint with those metal brushes that you attach to a drill. Then when I tried to sand that section with the orbit sander, I couldn't get all the scratches out. Even using really coarse hand sandpaper didn't get the scratches out.So instead of giving it a mirror finish, I decided to go over the whole thing with the metal brushes attached to a drill. See what it turned out like below. I am going to leave it like that.So now I need to know how to finish it. I had been following these instructions but they are not working. The rubbing compound does not disappear when you rub it. It is just smearing brown stuff all over the file cabinet. I do not know what the purpose of this is. It's not appearing to polish anything. It just makes a mess. So after rubbing it with cloths didn't get rid of it, I tried to wash it off. But that was an even worse mistake because now there are small rust spots all over even though I dried it with a dry cloth after washing the file cabinet. Also, washing it made it look dirtier. There are water streaks all over it now. I went to Home Depot but I don't know what to buy. I don't want to ask any of the floor staff because they could just say anything and it might make things worse. A guy at Parts Source told me I should use Metal Polish. He actually told me to go to a jeweller and get jewel polish, but then he suggested this Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream. I don't know if he's right or wrong.So my questions are: How can I remove the brown rubbing compound? Washing didn't get all of it. Am I supposed to buff it off? Apparently you can't use water at this stage. How am I supposed to clean off the mess I made when I was only trying to polish it and make it perfectly clean and shiny before coating it?Assuming I can get it cleaned off and make all the rust spots disappear, what am I supposed to coat it with? How many coats?Is there something you're supposed to do after you coat it? Such as do you polish it then? With what?

Question by noahbody_   |  last reply


director coach outlet online

To protect show the city has higher profile than off the project as primarily ningbo intangible cultural heritage demonstrated center. The center on June 7, 2008 world heritage day celebration, located in yinzhou area should be under the village streets west of the ancient village bay, beautiful scenery, elegant environment, use the ancient village west of of primitive simplicity elegant traditional building, will the bay tourist culture and the testament mulberry traditional culture, and the combination of colliding promote each other, coordinating development. Protection exhibition center on ningbo city range about more than 60 have higher popularity and influence the programs, page display, visual illustration and field sales. Protection show center is located in a traditional siheyuan inside, indoor display surface by approximately 2200 square, outdoor available area is 1000 square, of medium professional exhibition hall, divided into sequence hall, a layer of exhibition hall, 2 hall and outdoor interact area four parts. Sequence hall to the form of layout is introduced, showcase ningbo city within the scope of the national, provincial, municipal gave the project, a layer, second floor for crafts exhibition hall hall, ZhuJin paint woodcarving, elder Mosaic, the paper-cut, root, about 30 items on display in this, outdoor interactive area is for the demo project activities sites, a stage. (2) have yinzhou district main intangible cultural heritage project of ningbo (yinzhou) museum. The museum is located in yinzhou district government south side, cover an area of 60 mu, with a total construction area of 27000 square meters, invest 250 million, 5 December, 2008 officially opening, the central, provincial and other leaders DuoCi visit the museum, the library intangible cultural heritage project elder Mosaic, ZhuJin paint woodcarving, such as gold and silver has open special exhibition hall. (3) to protect national the testament ZhuJin list show mainly paint woodcarving ZhuJin paint woodcarving gallery of art. The museum is located in the beautiful scenery of the yinfeng our lucky HengXi town south, covers an area of 8 acres, the total investment of 1000 yuan, exhibition since Ming and qing dynasties to today's ZhuJin paint woodcarving collection, the art of more than 1000 pieces. ZhuJin paint woodcarving art museum director Chen is GaiHong state-level non-material cultural heritage representative inheritance.http://www.coachoutletonlineshopping.net

Topic by luckywoyao   |  last reply


Yet another unidentified tool

Hi guys,Can anyone tell me what this tool would have been used for?The fine wire is spring loaded.I was thinking perhaps a pricker for an old gas or kerosene lamp light to clear the aperture, or maybe a paint gun.Seems an over complicated device if it is what it was used for, but i guess it protects the wire by retracting it.

Question by AussieAlf   |  last reply


steampunk sealant

Hello, I am steampunking a nerfgun for my nephew and the assumption is that he will play with it. I thought I would use an acrylic clear sealant to protect the paint, but when I sprayed it, the paint krinkled -- once it dried, it became hard again. I have two more components to seal and would like to avoid this. (I sprayed the nerf with flat black Krylon spraypaidn (supposed to bond to plastic) and then dry brushed metallic acrylic paint for effect. One internet person suggested I use mod-lodge -- but the instructions say that after applying it, i should use a clear acrylic topcoat. So my question is--should I be using this extra step--or is there a paintable acrylic sealant i could use? What are best practices used by you folks?

Topic by jim.miller.580   |  last reply


Occupational Health & Safety 'Ibles

After running a short thread about NOT sanding glass without serious respiratory protection, the idea of having Occupational Health and Safety Instructables was brought up. (Thanks, psycholily!)There are a lot of great howtos around here, and many of them touch on potentially harmful techniques. Not that this is a bad thing, and most authors will remark on safety issues, but I feel that many do not discuss how to keep safe.If we could have a few professionals post simple ibles about how to keep safe while performing various tasks that appear regularly on the site, that would be GREAT.Things such as:Respiratory protection - what do you need for sanding, painting, glasswork, welding, etc.Eye protection - wood work, soldering, welding, etc.Physical covering - is a long-sleeved shirt and jeans sufficient? Do you need gloves?Proper Cleanup and Disposal of various materials - what's safe, what's legal?

Topic by Coffeebot   |  last reply


Decorating bike with duct tape: weather/friction proofing help? The tape is peeling from the friction of my legs.

I was already thinking of acrylic spray since I live in rainy Portland.  Would acrylic be enough to weather and friction protect it?  Should I cover the whole shebang with clear packing tape then spray acrylic?  Would that make the clear tape opaque?  Other ideas?  Not experienced with paint, adhesives, cover stuff, etc.

Question by peanutduck   |  last reply


Anyone use or think of a use in projects: used discarded automotive Serpentine Belts?

I've cut some into strips and bonded pieces to appliance edges making "scratch resistant bumpers.My vacuum cleaner does not chip paint from the woodwork anymore!  Serpentine belts are strong and have a nice form factor. Pieces of thick rubber for projects are hard to find any ideas?

Question by MEGACYCLES   |  last reply


Motorcycle Helmets | Motorcycle accessories | helmet stickers | motorcycle decals | sticker printing

Buy Motorcycle Helmets was founded with the commitment to provide Quality Products to the Motorcycle enthusiast. Our philosophy is that true motorcycle enthusiasts only want the best when it comes to their accessories - especially helmets. Unlike our competition, we do not “cut corners” and use cheaper materials to reduce cost because it also lowers quality. We want our customers to be satisfied with their purchase because it makes good business sense. Let us take you through how our helmets are manufactured and you will understand what makes our helmets the BEST! We have best Quality Motorcycle Helmets, Motorcycle helmet, Motorcycle accessories, helmet stickers, motorcycle decals, Custom decals, sticker printing, Custom t-shirts, Paint Protection, Clear Bra, Novelty discount Helmets, Chrome Helmet, Custom Air brush Helmet, Novelty Motorcycle Accessories, Wholesale and Retail Motor Gear

Topic by alexscott97   |  last reply


Blakes 7 Teleport Bracelet

This is how to make the magic blakes seven teleport bracelet!Ingredients:one cardboard roll, such as a poster or postal cylinder or the cardboard roll from inside a roll of packing tape; diameter 8.5cm, width 4cm (cut to this width if need be, using a saw or knife)cardboard, thick enough to be sturdy, thin enough to be flexiblethin cork (optional)plain paperglueblack or dark brown foam rubber (optional)silver tape width 1.5cm OR aluminuim foil cut or folded to width 1.5cmAntique Gold or metallic brown paintgrey paint OR a round grey button 2cm diameter OR grey tapered paint OR pink paint OR red paint + pearl nailpolishbrown packing tape or beige paintclear or red contact (optional)Visual Reference:Refer to the Liberator Teleport Bracelet diagram in the Horizon Technical Manual.Instructions:Cut your roll to the right width if need be. If the roll is too thin and flimsy, stick a layer of cardboard over it. Cover the rough edges with paper.Cut five strips of cardboard, one 15x3cm, one 9x3cm, one 1.3x3cm, and two 2.5x1cm (measurements will vary depending on the precise size of the cardboard roll). If the cardboard is thin, cut twice as many strips. If you are using thin cork, cut one strip each from the cork also.Stick the strips onto the roll, making sure they evenly positioned in the center. Check the diagram for where to stick them: the two long strips should be next to each other with a small gap representing where the hinge of the bracelet would go if it had a hinge. The small 1.3x3cm strip goes in the larger gap between the long strips - this is where the red button will go. If using cork, stick the cork down first, and the cardboard on top.When all the glue is dry, paint the bracelet with antique gold or metallic brown enamel paint. Do more than one coat if you think that will look better. Wait for the paint to dry.The red receive-button is made from the two smallest strips of cardboard stuck together, covered with white paper, painted red, and covered with contact to make it shiny. Another way of doing this is painting it red, and then painting it with white-pearl nailpoilish to get that glowing pink-red effect. Glue this as indicated in the diagram.The grey transmit-part is made either from cutting a circle of paper or thin card (1.5-2cm diameter) and painting it grey, or by using a grey round button and cutting off the shaft so that it will stick on flat. Stick this on as indicated in the diagram.Cut out silver tape or foil and stick on the bracelet as indicated in the diagram. Cut out (very cleverly) pieces of brown packing tape in the shapes of the alien characters that decorate the rest of the bracelet and stick them on, or else paint them on with beige paint. You may wish to paint the whole bracelet with clear enamel to protect it.Optionally add a lining with foam rubber, to aid the bracelet in not falling off when you wear it.NOTES: Cardboard rolls: the roll from inside a large roll of packing tape comes closest to the right size. A large postal cylinder is too large and a small one is too small. A Pringles packet is too small, but may be easier to obtain. A Pringles packet is easier to cut but is also flimsier; it is recommended to add bulk by sticking on more cardboard to thicken it up.Cardboard: most cardboard you can buy will probably be too thin. The backs of note-pads may provide thicker stuff. The disadvantage of thicker cardboard is that it will not bend as easily, and the cardboard used here must bend. An alternative if available could be thin cork (a few millimetres thick); this will bend fairly easily and add the bulk you need. But only bother if you happen to have some (maybe left over from someone's redecorating or the like). I used it for mine, it worked beautifully.The red button: building this up from strips of cardboard is fairly tedious, and if you can think of a better way, do that.I know Michael Keating!He Played Vila.

Topic by Bartboy   |  last reply


How can I practice to restore and preserve old artwork? Answered

I have recently acquired a small (6"x 8") original oil painting that has been a family heirloom for a while now. As far as I can tell through research and artist signature validation, this piece is more than likely about a hundred years old. It is still in good shape but over the years has developed slight cracking in the paint in certain places and is yellowing from sunlight and smoke exposure from improper protection. While I don't intend on fixing these issues myself without the proper training (which is one of the main causes of the devaluation and ruining of fine art), after searching the internet for any restoration services nearby wear I live, there was virtually nothing available. It was also very hard to find even a few locations that even advertised such a thing. So, I am curious after all this, how does one practice for these sort of skills, short of going to school to study such a thing? I would hope they don't let lay people practice on valuable works of art when they are learning.

Question by Asura-Valkyrie   |  last reply


How do I change the color of my earbud cord or create a detachable cord cover? ? Answered

I just got 3 new skullcandy earbuds really cheap at Marshalls.  The white really stands out when I want my cord to blend with my dark clothes. I want to find a way to change the cord color from white to black that won't rub off on my clothes and will stay.  I would be willing to paint but would consider other ways to cover the white cord .  Any ideas on how I could change  the color with permanently?   What type of paint  is best to permanently change the color of my white earbud cord to black? Could I sew a  protective cover ?  I read the instructable about using a sharpie but want the color to not rub off.  I tried black nail poilish which seems to chip off.    Please help if you have ideas!

Question by mkweller   |  last reply


OFFICIAL RULES: Academic Challenge: Elementary Art

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Entrants will be judged by Wilgubeast. Further information on the steps and process of voting and judging can be found in Section B below. Odds of Winning. The odds of winning a prize depend on the number of eligible entries received between the Start Date and the Deadline and the quality of each entry as evaluated by the Judge in the manner described above. The number of entries received, and the number of winners chosen, in prior contests of Sponsor, including the three (3) most recently completed contests, can be found through the "Contests" page of the Sponsor Site, which can be found here instructables.com/contest. The number of eligible entries for Sponsor's recently completed contests generally has ranged from approximately two (2) to approximately eighty-three (83), and generally has averaged approximately forty (40), but Sponsor cannot predict or guarantee any specific number of eligible entries for the Contest. SECTION B - ADDITIONAL TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST General Conditions. By entering the Contest, each entrant agrees to abide by the terms of these Rules and by the decisions of Sponsor and the Judges, which shall be made in all cases in their sole and absolute discretion and are final and binding on all matters relating to the Contest. The Contest is governed by the laws of the State of California and applicable United States federal law, without regard to any conflicts of laws principles. The Contest is void where prohibited by law. The Contest is also governed by Sponsor's Privacy Policy, and other policies (collectively, the "Policies") pertaining to the Sponsor Site, although the Rules will govern any conflict between the Privacy Policy and the Rules. Exclusions from Eligibility. Employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, or their respective parents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners, suppliers, or advertising or promotional agencies (including without limitation any Judges who are employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates), as well as members of their households or their immediate families, may submit entries in the Contest, but any such entries are for information and entertainment purposes only and are not eligible to be considered for the purpose of selecting finalists or winners. Judges who are not employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates, are not eligible to enter or win, nor are members of their households or their immediate families. Entry. 1.Multiple entries are permitted, but only one entry per entrant can win a prize in the Contest. Entrants must be registered users of the Sponsor Site to enter the Contest. Registering for an account with the Sponsor Site may require each entrant to submit entrant's name, e-mail address, age or date of birth, and other details, and in the case of a minor, contact details for a parent or legal guardian for purposes of obtaining proof of parental consent, if Sponsor elects to do so. Entries can be the work of more than one person, but for purposes of the Contest, each entry will belong to the "Primary Author" named in the entry, regardless of the number of contributors to that entry. For winning entries, Sponsor will award the applicable prize to the named entrant only, and will not be responsible or liable for apportioning any prize among contributors to a winning entry. Upon submission, all entries become subject to the Policies (including without limitation the provisions regarding ownership and use of user submissions as stated in the Terms of Use https://www.instructables.com/tos.html). Entries will not be acknowledged or returned. Entrants are permitted to modify or update an entry after submission, but are not permitted to do so after the Deadline. Entries may remain posted on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site indefinitely following the Deadline, but Sponsor reserves the right to delete entries from the Contest page after the Contest ends, in its discretion. Entries may not be created or submitted through any software-generated, robotic, programmed, script, macro, or other automated method. Sponsor and Co-Sponsor will have no responsibility for, and will have the right to refuse in its discretion, any entries that have been tampered with, or entries that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible, whether due to Internet or e-mail server failure or otherwise. Proof of transmission of an entry shall not constitute proof of receipt. It is each entrant's responsibility to keep Sponsor informed of any changes to entrant's contact or other information during the Contest. Additional Entry Requirements. Each entry must comply in all respects with the Policies, including without limitation all requirements for user submissions, as stated in the Terms of Use https://www.instructables.com/tos.html for the Sponsor Site. Without limiting that requirement, each entry also must comply with the following: Each entry must be entirely the original work of the persons identified in the entry; If persons other than the entrant have contributed to an entry, the entrant must have the permission from each contributor prior to submitting the entry; Entries must not have been published prior to the Start Date; Entries must not have been entered in more than two other previous contests of Sponsor; Entries must not contain anything that is or may be: (i) threatening, harassing, degrading or hateful; (ii) defamatory; (iii) fraudulent or tortious; (iv) obscene, indecent or otherwise objectionable; or (v) protected by copyright, trademark or other proprietary right without the express prior consent of the owner of such right; and Entries must not contain any material that would give rise to criminal or civil liability or that encourages conduct that constitutes a criminal offense. Judging Process. The winner(s) will be determined by the Judges, who will apply the Criteria to evaluate entries. The entries with the highest score(s) will be selected as the winner(s), and the number and type of winners will be as identified in Section A above. The Judges have the right to disqualify any entry that is not in compliance with these Rules, in the Judges' discretion. In the event that a winning entry is disqualified, the next-highest scoring entry will be selected as the alternate winner. In the event that one or more of the identified Judges is unavailable, Sponsor reserves the right to substitute Judges of comparable qualification, to be determined by Sponsor in its discretion. Prize Terms All values are stated in United States dollars or British Pound Sterling as indicated. If a stated prize is unavailable, Sponsor has the right to substitute one or more items of equal or greater value, in its discretion. No prize is exchangeable, transferable, or redeemable for cash. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for complying with any and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law), rules and regulations and for bearing any personal income, VAT, withholding taxes, customs duties, or other taxes, fees, insurance, surcharges or other costs relating to any prize. THE PRIZE(S) WILL BE GIVEN AWAY BY SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSOR(S) "AS IS." SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSORS DO NOT MAKE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM, ANY WARRANTY, WHETHER EXPRESS, IMPLIED, OR STATUTORY, REGARDING ANY PRIZE OR PORTION THEREOF, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY IMPLIED OR STATUTORY WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, TITLE, OR NON-INFRINGEMENT. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OF IMPLIED WARRANTIES, CONSUMER GUARANTEES AND SIMILAR RIGHTS, IN WHICH CASE SUCH EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. WITHOUT LIMITATION, TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, ALL WARRANTIES AND REPRESENTATIONS, IN RELATION TO THE PRIZES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED BY STATUTE, LAW (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, COMMON LAW), RULE, REGULATION OR OTHERWISE, ARE HEREBY EXCLUDED. Announcement; Award of Prize(s). 1. The winner(s) will be notified by e-mail within seven (7) days of selection. The winner(s) (and, if a winner is a minor, the winner's parent or legal guardian) may be required to sign a declaration of eligibility and/or publicity and/or liability release form, to the extent not prohibited by law, prior to receipt of a prize. The winner(s) must take possession of the prize(s) as directed by Sponsor. The winner(s) may be required to provide Sponsor with a social security or taxpayer identification number for tax purposes. The winner(s) also may be required to provide Sponsor with proof that he or she is the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address associated with the winning entry. An "Authorized Account Holder" is the natural person who is assigned to an e-mail address by an Internet access provider or other organization responsible for assigning e-mail addresses to the domain associated with an e-mail address. In the event of a dispute, an entry will be deemed to have been submitted by the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address submitted at the time of entry. Failure to respond to a winner announcement, or return any required declarations or releases within seven (7) days (or any longer time specified by Sponsor) or to comply with any of the foregoing may result in disqualification and the selection of an alternate winner. It is Sponsor's policy to assist government employees in meeting their obligations under their Standards of Ethical Conduct; any prize(s) won in violation of those Standards should not be accepted and should be returned at Sponsor's expense or destroyed. Representations. 1.By entering the Contest, each entrant represents and warrants that: (a) the entrant meets all eligibility requirements of the Contest; (b) in entering and participating in the Contest, the entrant has complied and will comply in all respects with these Rules and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law), rules and regulations; and (c) the information provided in the entrant's entry, including without limitation all contact information, is true, accurate, and complete in all respects. Assumption of Risk. By taking any action to create an entry for the Contest, each entrant, on his or her own behalf and on behalf of his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns, acknowledges and agrees that: (a) THERE MAY BE DANGER AND RISK OF BODILY INJURY, DEATH, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE INVOLVED IN CREATING AN ENTRY; (b) THESE RISKS AND DANGERS MAY ARISE FROM FORESEEABLE OR UNFORESEEABLE CAUSES; (c) SUCH ENTRANT AND HIS OR HER PERSONAL REPRESENTATIVES, HEIRS, EXECUTORS, AND ASSIGNS ASSUME ALL RISKS AND RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PERSONAL INJURY, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OTHER LOSS ARISING OUT OF THE CREATION OF ANY ENTRY, WHETHER CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE OR ANY OTHER CAUSE; and (d) such entrant and his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns are relinquishing any and all rights he, she, or they now have or may have in the future to sue or take any other action against Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, the prize manufacturers, any other entities involved in the administration of the Contest, each of their respective parents, subsidiaries, and affiliates, and each of their respective officers, directors, employees, agents, and representatives (the “Sponsor Parties”) on the basis of any injury, death, damage, or other loss that may be suffered arising from any action taken in the creation of any entry, including but not limited to claims based on allegations of negligence by any of the Sponsor Parties. Release. To the maximum extent permitted by law, by entering the Contest, each entrant releases and holds harmless the Sponsor Parties from any and all responsibility, liability, damages (including, without limitation, direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, punitive, statutory, and other damages), losses, costs, or expenses of any kind arising out of or relating to: (a) entry or participation in the Contest, including but not limited to disputes among individuals claiming to have contributed to any winning entry; (b) any violation by the entrant of these Rules, the Policies, or applicable laws; (c) misappropriation, infringement, or other violation of any copyright, trademark, patent, trade secret, right of publicity, privacy, or other legal or contractual right of any person attributable to entrant or any entry submitted by entrant; (d) the acceptance, possession, receipt, or use of any prize or any item purchased with any prize (e.g., if the prize includes a gift card); (e) any entries or votes that have been tampered with or that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible; (f) any problems or technical malfunctions (including but not limited to errors, omissions, interruptions, deletions, defects, or delays in operation or transmission) of any computer, telephone, modem, cable, satellite, network, hardware, online system, server, software, or other equipment or provider, including any incorrect, incomplete, garbled or jumbled information resulting therefrom; (g) any Internet traffic congestion or website accessibility or delays; (h) printing or typographical errors in any Contest-related materials; or (i) any other technical or human error that may occur in connection with the Contest (the “Causes”). If anyone makes any claim against any of the Sponsor Parties arising out of or relating to any of the Causes attributable to the entrant, the entrant will pay for any damages, losses, liabilities, costs, penalties, and expenses, including without limitation attorneys’ and experts’ fees and costs, incurred in connection with such claim. WITHOUT LIMITING THE GENERALITY OF THE FOREGOING, THE SPONSOR PARTIES SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOST PROFITS OR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, EXEMPLARY, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF THE CONTEST, HOWSOEVER CAUSED, WHETHER ARISING IN STATUTE, TORT, CONTRACT, OTHER LEGAL THEORY OR OTHERWISE, AND ALL SUCH DAMAGES ARE HEREBY DISCLAIMED AND EXCLUDED. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION OF LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES AND OTHER LIABILITY (INCLUDING INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES) IN WHICH CASE SUCH LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, RULE, STATUTE OR REGULATION IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. NOTHING IN THESE TERMS EXCLUDE LIABILITY FOR FRAUD, OR FOR PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE TO THE EXTENT SUCH EXCLUSION IS PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW. Misconduct. Sponsor reserves the right, in its discretion, to disqualify any entrant who: (a) tampers with the entry or voting process, the operation of the Contest, the Sponsor Site, or affiliated websites; (b) acts in an unsporting or disruptive manner, or with intent to annoy or harass another person; (c) is otherwise in violation of these Rules, the Policies, or any applicable laws; or (d) attempts to subvert the letter and/or spirit of these Rules. SPONSOR RESERVES THE RIGHT TO SEEK DAMAGES FROM ANY SUCH PERSON TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY LAW. Termination. 1.Sponsor reserves the right to suspend, modify, or terminate the Contest at any time for any reason, in its discretion, including without limitation in the event of fraud, abuse, tampering, technical, administrative, financial, or other difficulties. In such cases, Sponsor will post a notice on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site. Should the Contest terminate prior to selection of the winner, Sponsor will announce an alternate means of awarding the prize on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site. Advertising. By entering the Contest, each entrant grants to Sponsor the rights to use his or her entry as provided in the Policies, including without limitation the provisions of the Terms of Use https://www.instructables.com/tos.html regarding ownership and use of user submissions.WITHOUT LIMITING THE FOREGOING, TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY LAW, BY ENTERING THE CONTEST, EACH ENTRANT CONSENTS, AND WARRANTS THAT IT HAS OBTAINED THE WRITTEN CONSENT OF EVERY CONTRIBUTOR TO THE ENTRY, TO THE USE BY SPONSOR, ANY CO- SPONSOR, OR ANY THIRD PARTY CHOSEN BY SPONSOR OR ANY CO-SPONSOR, OF ANY AND ALL INFORMATION, DRAWINGS, TEXT, PHOTOS, VIDEOS, OR OTHER MATERIAL CONTAINED IN AN ENTRY OR OTHERWISE PROVIDED BY SUCH ENTRANT RELATED TO THE CONTEST, INCLUDING ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION OBTAINED THROUGH THE CONTEST, FOR ADVERTISING, MARKETING OR ANY OTHER PURPOSES NOT PROHIBITED BY LAW. Otherwise, each entrant retains whatever rights it may have in each entry to the extent provided in the Policies. To the maximum extent permitted by law, by accepting a prize, a winner consents on his or her own behalf and on behalf of any contributor to the entry, to the print and online publication of the winner's user name, first and last name, address, and winning entry as part of the official winner's list and also to the use of his or her winning entry, first and last name, user name, voice, photograph, biographical material, and likeness by Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, or any third party chosen by Sponsor or any Co-Sponsor, for advertising, marketing, and other purposes without additional compensation. Other than as set forth herein, Sponsor will treat any personal information supplied by entrants in connection with the Contest in accordance with Sponsor's Privacy Policy https://www.instructables.com/about/privacy.jsp. Miscellaneous. 1.Other than for entrants who are U.K. residents, Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, and each entrant agree to the non-exclusive jurisdiction of an appropriate state court in Marin County, California, or an appropriate federal court located in San Francisco, for any action or proceeding arising out of or related to these Rules, the Contest, or any prize. For U.K. residents: these Rules are governed by the Laws of England and Wales, and Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, and each entrant agree to the non-exclusive jurisdiction of the courts in England in connection with any action or proceeding arising out of or related to these Rules, the Contest, or any prize. By entering the Contest, each entrant submits to the jurisdiction of those courts and waives any objection to those courts, whether on the basis of jurisdiction, venue, inconvenience of the forum, or otherwise. If any part of these Rules is held by a court of competent jurisdiction to be invalid, illegal, or otherwise unenforceable, such part will be modified by such court to the minimum extent necessary to make it enforceable while preserving to the maximum extent possible the original intent of Sponsor, and the remaining parts of these Rules will remain in full force and effect. Nothing contained herein or in any of the Contest related materials should be construed as an endorsement by Sponsor of any Co-Sponsor, or of Sponsor or any Co-Sponsor of any third party, product, or service. Winner's List; Mailing List. The user name(s) and entries of the Contest winner(s) will be posted on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site, within thirty (30) days of awarding of all prizes. In addition, the names of the winner(s) may be obtained by sending a written request and a self-addressed, stamped envelope to the below address (requests must include the words "WINNER'S LIST" and the full name of the Contest prominently in the first line of the address): Instructables 82 2nd St. San Francisco, California 94105 USA All such requests must be received within six (6) months of the Deadline. Sponsor's telephone number for Contest purposes is (01-510-473-7626). Entrants who opt to join Sponsor's electronic mailing list agree to be contacted by email by Sponsor. Requests for removal from Sponsor's mailing list may be made as instructed in any such email, or by sending a written request and a self-addressed, stamped envelope to "Instructables Mailing List" at the above address, by calling the above telephone number, or as otherwise indicated on the Sponsor Site. Residents of Vermont may omit return postage on winner's list and mailing list requests. © 2011 Instructables, Inc. All rights reserved. INSTRUCTABLES is a registered trademark of Instructables, Inc. Other brands may be trademarks of their respective owners.

Topic by wilgubeast 


Need help with DIY cooler insulation

Long time fan, first time poster. I'm looking to convert a cool-looking vintage toolbox into a heavy duty lunchbox. I'm currently prepping the metal for paint and looking into what I can use to insulate the box. I've thought of: * spray foam insulation: Good coverage and thermal protection, but not water-resistant enough (think condensation) * fiberglass insulation (pink stuff): Good, but unsure about how cold it will keep things * styrofoam: probably the one inch sheets used for basement walls below grade. Best solution so far. Before I do something that will likely mean stripping the box clean and starting over, I thought it best to see what others might have to say about this. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Topic by Jiggsy   |  last reply


Fuel economy of the world's longest in-service ship

The Emma Maersk is the second longest ship in the world, and the longest currently in service. It's so large, it looks photoshopped into any picture it appears. Driving such a large ship requires a lot of power. From Wikipedia:The Emma Maersk is powered by a Wartsila-Sulzer 14RTFLEX96-C engine, currently the world's largest single diesel unit, weighing 2,300 tons and capable of 109,000 horsepower (82 MW). The ship has several features to protect the environment. This includes recycling the exhaust, mixed with fresh air, back into the engine for reuse. This not only increases efficiency by as much as 12% but also reduces engine emissions. Instead of biocides, used by much of the industry to keep barnacles off of the hull, a special silicone-based paint is used. This increases the ship's efficiency by reducing drag while also protecting the ocean from biocides that may leak. The silicone paint covering the part of the hull below the waterline is credited for lowering the water drag enough to save 1200 tons of fuel per year.We started talking about energy consumption after watching a practice version of Saul's upcoming E-Tech Keynote, Energy Literacy, and Dave Culp of Kiteship and Speed Sailing did a back-of-the-envelope MPG calculation for this ship:A few more facts about Emma Maersk:Running at her rated 80 Mw, her main engines burn 14 tons of residual fuel each hour. Annually, that's 97,400 tons of fuel. Her auxiliaries, delivering their full 30 Mw, burn an additional 6.6 tons/hour, for a total fuel burn of 20.6 tons/hour. Given 290 steaming days/year (80% capacity factor, which is conservative), this yields a total annual usage of 143,400 tons or about $64.5 million in annual fuel costs.Burning 20.6 tons/hour = 6724 gals/hour. At 31 kts/hour, this equals .0046 nautical miles/gallon. At 6076 ft/nautical mile, that's 28 feet/gallon of fuel burned.The 1200 tons saved by her "revolutionary" bottom paint represents a bit less than 1% of this cost, so increases her fuel mileage to 28.2 feet/gallon.Dave concludes:You gotta haul a lot of containers full of $7 tee shirts to make this profitable.28 feet/gallon!Images from jtashipphoto.dk and Wikipedia.

Topic by ewilhelm   |  last reply


Goalie Designs New Pads to Block More Shots

Hockey goaltender Trevor Leahy was looking for an extra edge in his hockey games and decided to design some new goalie pads to help him out. Going with the idea of camouflaging them, the front of the pads are meant to mimic the look of the net itself. The idea is that in the split second before a shot, a player would shoot into the pad and not the real net. The results are inconclusive, but at least the whole process has helped Trevor get into college.Since the days when Boston Bruins' goaltender Gerry Cheevers started inking stitches onto his mask each time the equipment protected his face, many goalies have expressed their individuality with designs and paintings on their mask or other pieces of equipment. But Leahy's design - essentially a camouflage for a goal that is 4 feet high and 6 feet wide - has hockey players and coaches amazed and impressed. Link via Core77

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


CLEAR FILM that is archival, pigment inkjet compatible, and in of itself can be a final product? Is there such a thing?

Problem: I've been calling art stores as well as photography stores, paper stores, film manufacturers, printer companies -- nobody seems to know if there is such a thing as printing onto clear plastic film as a final product. Everyone says their products are meant for transferring or negatives etc. (I tried printing on non-coated Mylar D, and the ink just beads off.) goal: What I have been creating are art pieces on clear transfer film and selling them. I print on them, I paint on them, I apply reflective & dichroic materials on them, and layer them on top of each other; I manipulate the art pieces in every interesting way I possibly can. My collectors and potential clients want to be assured that my pieces will have a long lasting quality to them. I want to be able to give all of the correct information rather than "I don't know". my materials: I use a canon ipf8400 with archival fine art pigment inks. I just need a clear film that is also archival. Or something as close as possible to being the most durable, long lasting material available that is inkjet compatible. There has to be something out there? Or at least a protective clear spray or finish? I can't be the only one interested in creating artwork with transparent qualities? I have been using transfer film, 4ml thick. Does anyone have any tips at all to help me think in the right direction?  question: Is there such a thing as a Clear Film that is archival, pigment inkjet compatible, and in of itself can be a final product? Or what is the closest I can possibly get to that?

Question by LindsayR3   |  last reply


Help with wood coloring/finishing!?

Hey guys, Im working on a mini project to make some wooden keychains/items... the wood i start with is just some home depot paint mixing planks (unlimited supply lol), i cut them down to the size of a dog tag, sand them down and my plan is to stamp letters onto it with my letter stamping kit, the kind that punches into the wood, and give it to friends for fun, the result from stamping is really good (once i get my alignment right), but the problem is im not sure what is the best way to color the letters, i tried a marker, lets just say it didnt work too well lol, and im not really sure what i should be doing since this is a bit new to me also, once i finish it i plan to seal it in some protective coating so it doesnt get wet and get messed up, the wood is pretty soft as is. Not sure what i should use here either Thanks for the help and if u got cooler ideas i want to hear them too lol

Question by holymolys   |  last reply


Circuit board heat Trouble. Answered

Full disclaimer, I am still learning and at my current skill level I am essentially following a picture book showing how to hammer a nail then emulating it, Hope that analogy paints the picture correctly. Now for the problem! I have embarked on a journey of growth and learning, in said adventure I took a personal challenge of building something and hopefully learning in the process. Needless to say I did learn, some lessons more painfully than others (soldering Irons are HOT *Sigh*) but I am at an impasse. You should see attached (hopefully) one schematic and two photos. The schematic correlates to the board of course. The next two are of the silkscreen on the board (empty) and the board upon "completion". If you notice in the empty board photo I have drawn your attention to a specific area, the area in question. In this area there seems, during testing, a decent amount of heat build up. Now this may be normal, I do not know. The device calls for the use of three Protected 18650 Lithium Batteries (3.7V I believe). I attempted to do a continuity test with what I thought was under voltage, in hindsight, I'm not sure whether the power cells are in series or parallel so perhaps I was not under? anywho that is when I noticed the heat in that area. I hope I have illustrated my predicament enough for a solid enough understanding, If not I apologize. Please ask any information you require. 

Question by Dauntless   |  last reply


Let us assemble power distribution switches at home together.

I am an electronic engineer in the field of power distribution switches. In recent days, I am prepared to make a project for power distribution switches at home together.  The project begins now: Home decoration, the concern of hydropower indispensable. The laying of the home circuit is a crucial link, the home distribution box installation involves the safety of home appliances. Therefore, I specifically summarise the home distribution box installation knowledge, as well as home distribution box wiring diagram to make the relevant finishing, for everyone to take precautions, the home distribution box has a clear understanding. Home distribution switch installation points 1, Household distribution switch sub-metal shell and plastic shell two, there are two kinds of mounted and concealed, the box must be intact. 2, The household distribution switch of the cabinet wiring assembly should be set up to zero line, to protect the ground wire, phase line, and to be intact, with good insulation. 3, The installation of air switch seat should be clean and there is enough space, should be installed in the dry, ventilated parts, and no obstruction, easy to use. Never install the distribution box in the box to prevent fire. 4, The household distribution switch should not be installed too high, the general installation of the elevation of 1.8 meters, in order to operate; into the distribution switch of the electric tube must be fixed with a lock nut. 5, If the household distribution switch to be open, the edge of the hole to be smooth, smooth, distribution box buried in the wall should be vertical, horizontal, edge left 5 to 6 mm gap, distribution box wiring Should be rules, neat, the terminal screws must be tightened. 6, The loop into the line must be sufficient length, no joints, after installation marked the name of the use of the circuit, the installation of household distribution box to be completed after the removal of the distribution box residue. How to assemble power distribution switches at home ? 1, The installation of electrical box, distribution box installed on the wall, should be used bolts (expansion bolts) fixed, bolt length is generally buried depth (75 ~ 150mm), the thickness of the box floor, nuts and washers Of the sum of the thickness, plus about 5mm of the "margin". For smaller distribution boxes, it is also possible to embed a good brick at the installation site (in the form of a distribution box or a panel mounting hole) and then use wood screws to secure the distribution box or power distribution board. 2, Dark assembly distribution box, distribution box embedded in the wall installation, in the wall when the hole should be reserved than the length and width of the distribution box about 20mm, the depth of the distribution of the thickness of the distribution box with the wall Plaster thickness. In the masonry distribution box, the box and the wall filled with concrete can be fixed to the box live 3, The distribution box should be installed firmly, horizontal and vertical, vertical deviation should not be greater than 3mm; concealed, the distribution box should be around the gap, the edge of the panel should be close to the wall, the box and the building, Part should be coated with anti-corrosion paint. 4, The distribution box installed in the spiral fuse, the power cord should be connected to the middle of the terminal contact, the load line should be connected to the threaded terminal. In this way, in the loading and unloading fuse will not be electric shock. Porcelain plug-in fuses should be mounted vertically. 5, The distribution box of AC, DC or different voltage levels of power, should have a clear sign. Lighting line, should be set to zero line (N line) and protect the zero line (PE line) bus, zero line and protection of the zero line should be connected to the bus, not twisted, should be numbered. 6, The wire leads to the panel, the panel line hole should be smooth without burrs, metal panels should be installed insulation protective cover. Metal shell distribution box shell must be reliable grounding (then zero). Ps: Excuse me if I was wrong in words or expressions as I am a green hand in the field of power distribution switches. I need continual learnings. What is your idea ? Do you agree with my ideas ? Any of your ideas would be highly appreciated. May someone would like to help ? thanks in advance.

Topic by maryzhu   |  last reply


Summer, sun and what to do with faded plastics

A lot of us have machine, bikes or such with plastic parts.And if you are in a country where a UV rating of 10 is a nice spring day already plastics seem to fade away and fail quicker.Over the years I experimented with a lot of things to either prevent this or to fix it.If you ever had your old farm basher parked next to the same but sun protect model you almost start crying LOLColors look like you painted a white haze over it, white plastics turn yelloish and clear plastic, like on the head lamps of your car go dull and yellow.You might know what I mean if have really nice and long summers...So what is the reason for this problem that only seems to affect things in hot and sunny countries?A lot of plastics are actually fully UV resistant and they won't be harmed or changed.Great but they still suffer! ?Not really, it is the softeners, fillers and pigments that suffer most.In the case of clear plastics it is usually polycarbonate mixes and the culprit is the scratch resistant coating applied on it.The hard UV rays promote the oxidisation and break down.So whatever is not resistant to UV will suffer in and mostly on the outside of the plastic.Problem is that UV penetrates quite deep and as a result we often find that UV protecting agents are added.Sometimes as a coating, sometimes as a mix throughout.Older cars often show peeling paint onthe roof or boot lid - the UV protecting in the coating has failed or was just bad.Back in the old days there was whiteners in washing powder, we had white sheets for the beds and other things and leaving them in the sun to dry actually made them whiter and kept them looking fresh - a positive use for UV bleeching ;)In terms of real prevention options are almsot fully limited to keeping the xposure as low and short as possible.There is no clear coating you can apply to keep the UV out that won't affect the looks of the paint job or plastic.And not all of these coating work on all plastics.One option though is to keep the plastic clean and shiny.A highly reflective surface will not scatter the sunlight as much throughout the plastic.Oxidisation is limited as well, especially if you add some polish every now and then.In a lot of cases though this is either no option or way too time consuming for us to keep it up.As a result we start to neglect the routing here and there andover they years the plastic ages faster than what it should.How to fix or restored faded plastic without paying an arm and a leg for specialised products?White is always nice and if you have a washing machine or fridge close enough to a window you might have noticed over the years that the plastic parts now appear a bit darker or slightly yellow, often just on one side of the thing...Old electronics, like Gameboys are doing this too.Red is my other favourite as like black it produces a white haze easy.Either way the solution is pretty much the same: reduce the oxidisation by oxidising it more ;)Whatever is really oxidised in a bad way changed the color instead of just breaking dow the pigments.UV does this...On the other hand hydrogen peroxide bleeches and breaks down stains....As long as parts are small enough it is quite easy to put them in a zip lock bag to submerge them for a few hours or over night in hydrogen peroxide.Otherwise use a suitable container and keep turning and moving the parts around every hour or so until all looks even again.In severe cases and if the plastic permits it you can also add a small amount of diluted hydrochloric acid.Talking diluted! So that means of a low concentration!In most cases though a day or two with just hydrogen peroxide will suffice.Do a little test first though as some plastics might just be caoted and either show no reaction at all or the coating has pigment that break down in the peroxide - I never had this happen to me but I have read reports of it and seen the pics of the results.When it comes to really big parts, like the spoiler on your car or plastic covers on your bike and boat it can be impossible to submerge them even partially.In most cases people try to fix these by polishing them until the faded areas are litterally removed.A much nicer and easier way to cheat is to use a simple car polish that is suitable for plastic parts.Means it should have no warning on it to keep away for plastic parts ;)Wearing proper gloves you can add some hydrogen peroxide to a small amount of the polish.And I mean polish, not the stuff to fix a dull or bad paint - what you would use on a new car...The trick is that the polishing cleans the surface while the peroxide works on the staining and fading.You just don't let the stuff dry after applying it and polish the dry stufff of, you keep going wet until your color comes back ;)After that give it a final polish the normal way with just the polishing compound and no peroxide.Clear plastic...If it is just yor headlamps or other smaller parts for a once off it might make sense to go to a auto shop and buy a head lamp polishing kit.Thing with clear plastics is that only too often they come in shapes or installations that make a full access impossible.Like your head lamps that you can only reach from the front as they are glued into the assembly.Another problem is that they are aslo almost always coated with some protective stuff.If hydrogen peroxide alone does not help here then polishing will always remove some of this coating or even all of it.If the coating happens to be the culprit of the fading and yellowing then you of course get it all nice and shiny by just polishing the coating off - but you also loose all benefits of the coating.Some car models have headlamps where just the coating discolors and once removed the plastic start to crack under the exposure from UV and through all the tiny damages it get when driving around.For things like clear covers over a little display there is the problem as access as you might not be able to remove the window pane, a replacement might be the best option.Hey! Why all the fuzz? I use just oil and it works perfectly!!You can find online videos and full tutorials where people show you that just a bit of some oil and polishing it off with a lint free cloth brings all you faded colors back out again.Don't be fooled just because it works so great!Take a frosted piece of glass and put some oil on it and it becomes clear enough to see through again.Even works with very thin paper...What the oil really deos is to coat all these microscopic imperfections.And with the light now having a very easy way to get through it won't scatter anymore and the fading appears to be gone.Once the oil is gone the plastic looks as bad as before, hence the need to use an oil that dries off.Worst thing is that these oil affect the softeners in the plastic.In some cases this might be benefitial in most it is really bad though.Like any other solvent the oil mixes with these softeners and over time they are removed from the plastic, the more you use oil to keep it shine the more brittle you plastic might get.Once you did that it is next to impossible to remove the oil from within the damaged plastic and only way out i to polish it off after sanding it.The benefit of seemingly protecting the plastic from dirt and water is short lived as well.Some old oil you got on it would just wipe off but with the added oil in the plastic it can now penetrate.And that little black dot becomes hard to get rid of...Last words of wisdom:Check the type of plastic before you decide on anything!Especially when it comes to the black plastic with fibre re-inforcements.Do a tiny spot test in an area that is not so important before going full scale!Trust me, nothing is worse than only realising too late you selecting of choice is actually removing the pigments from the plastic - hint: if your cloth tunrs into the same color as your plastic then something is wrong.Use PPE! Gloves and face shield or at least goggle are a must have when working with hydrogen peroxide or acids.Even at just 3% the peroxide will bleech your skin quickly and long exposure won't be better either.Once you got a drop of peroxide in your eye you will never forget the googles, so just wear them right away please ;)If the fading is due to the breakdown of pigments that give the color like a white haze on red or blue plastic you might still have to polish off that thinnest layer on the surface to remove the fully bleached out layer.This however is really quickly done and after that the smooth surface will last much longer.Work clean!! It is of no use to start before you actually fully cleaned the plastic!

Topic by Downunder35m 


Build your own demo of a particle accelerator!

This was originally posted by an I'bles user in the "Feedback" forum. I've suggested he repost his questions under Science, and hope to answer them there. In the mean time, this video from the March 2008 issue of Symmetry Magazine (a joint SLAC/Fermilab publication) is really cute. The original article's video includes a bunch of related items which are worth checking out themselves. The high voltage (at least 50kV, I think) DC supply needs to be pretty stable -- you can't just throw a rectifier bridge onto a wall cord, but other than that, the project would be extremely simple to build. I've sent Dr. Johnson an e-mail to see if I can get more detailed specs. Update 4 Jan 2009: Todd Johnson and I have exchanged a couple of e-mails about this project (d**n, I love the collegiality of the scientific world!). For the DC power supply, he used a potted module (i.e., an enclosed unit with no accessible or dangerous components) designed for use in a negative ion generator (like the "Ionic Breeze"). He bought the unit surpus from http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G9695 . The bowl you see in the video was custom made from acrylic. I thought something like a Pyrex mixing bowl would work, but the "corner" where the flat base joins the spherical body introduces a barrier to the ball doing what it should do. The coating on the ping-pong ball is something called http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16133 "wire glue"], touted as a substitute for solder. For this project, he covered the conductive paint with some clear Krylon for protection. Dr. Johnson and I are discussing the possibility of collaborating on an Instructable for this project. As a result of the video publicity, he's already gotten some inquiries on how to build it, so this would be an appropriate venue. He has a substantial amount of performance data and physics background on the device, which we will include in the ultimate publication.

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


Walking LED Billboard

Hi Instructable Members! I was hoping someone can help me with a project for a business, which in turn will help others with their businesses or give ideas to other members. In this down economy, we need all the help we can get and rather than ask for a handout out from the government it is up to each and everyone of us to make our own way. Okay, enough of the preaching, let's get a teaching! My request is for information on constructing a internally lit, walking billboard. This is to advertise a walking tour business that I would like to start, but it could also be used to advertise other businesses. If you do a quick search on YouTube, you'll see a couple examples of what I'm talking about. Usually these models are pretty big and quite heavy, or should I say, heavier than they ought to be. I've seen them up close and have spoken to guys paid to carry them around here in Las Vegas. I'm told that they are constructed from sheet metal and plexiglass, weigh about 30lbs without the battery and aren't that comfortable. I wanted to make my units lighter and more comfortable, especially since I'll be the one wearing it all day. To do so, I've done a little research and have come up with some of the components to do this. Harness: I plan to use a military backpack frame called a Molle Frame. This is used as an internal structure to hold backpacks. It has several attachment points and is molded to follow the counter of the back. I have already purchased this harness along with the shoulder straps and hip harness. It is quite rugged and I'm sure it hold up to a 100 lbs in equipment. Though I hope my sign will weigh less than 10 lbs. Brace: To attach the billboard to the harness, I'd like to manufacture an aluminum brace. This brace would be constructed from aluminum bar stock and bent in such a way to hold the sign upright. It would be attached to the Molle harness by drilling holes through the aluminum bars and attached via nuts, bolts and washers. Cross braces will be attached to give the brace rigidity. Billboard Construction: (this is where I need help) Rather than making a "light box" from sheet metal, my idea would be to use Coroplast (a plastic type cardboard, typically used in mail containers like the post office uses. These can be found in sheets up to 1" thick. This could be used for the construction of a lightweight "light box" and then covered with black vinyl sheets or even spray painted. A rigid sign poster frame can then be attached to this box to hold a white opaque acrylic sheet. Then the advertisement can be place onto this sheet and then covered by a 3rd clear sheet to protect the advertisement. A quick note: This light box would have and internal skeleton, made of aluminum braces to attach to the brace and support the coroplast "light box" as well as the advertisement frame. Electrical component: (again, help is needed) I'm envisioning using led rope, or leds along the back side of the box to cast out enough light to illuminate the advertisement. Also I failed to mention that along the top of this light box, the front side has to be lit, as it will extend about a foot above my head to advertise toward the people i'm walking toward to. Please search "walking billboards" in YouTube and you'll see what I mean. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n2RwBbTdjk&feature;=related My unit won't nearly be as large, as I do have to be mobile and be able to maneuver inside casinos without knocking anyone over. So if you choose to accept this mission, I'd greatly appreciate it. Any ideas will be taken under advisement and if they seem to be doable and cost effective, I'll put up the results as a LED Walking Billboard Instructable - Let the creativity flow and the designing begin! Sincerely, ~Elric Leano

Topic by elricleano 


Funny Labels

These are hilarious!!! There all REAL funny product lables that people have found. Here's the link to where I got them: http://www.rinkworks.com/said/warnings.shtml Product Warnings: • "Do not use if you cannot see clearly to read the information in the information booklet." -- In the information booklet. • "Caution: The contents of this bottle should not be fed to fish." -- On a bottle of shampoo for dogs. • "For external use only!" -- On a curling iron. • "Warning: This product can burn eyes." -- On a curling iron. • "Do not use in shower." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping or unconscious." -- On a hand-held massaging device. • "Do not place this product into any electronic equipment." -- On the case of a chocolate CD in a gift basket. • "Recycled flush water unsafe for drinking." -- On a toilet at a public sports facility in Ann Arbor, Michigan. • "Shin pads cannot protect any part of the body they do not cover." -- On a pair of shin guards made for bicyclists. • "This product not intended for use as a dental drill." -- On an electric rotary tool. • "Caution: Do not spray in eyes." -- On a container of underarm deodorant. • "Do not drive with sunshield in place." -- On a cardboard sunshield that keeps the sun off the dashboard. • "Caution: This is not a safety protective device." -- On a plastic toy helmet used as a container for popcorn. • "Do not use near fire, flame, or sparks." -- On an "Aim-n-Flame" fireplace lighter. • "Battery may explore or leak." -- On a battery. See a scanned image. • "Do not eat toner." -- On a toner cartridge for a laser printer. • "Not intended for highway use." -- On a 13-inch wheel on a wheelbarrow. • "This product is not to be used in bathrooms." -- On a Holmes bathroom heater. • "May irritate eyes." -- On a can of self-defense pepper spray. • "Eating rocks may lead to broken teeth." -- On a novelty rock garden set called "Popcorn Rock." • "Caution! Contents hot!" -- On a Domino's Pizza box. • "Caution: Hot beverages are hot!" -- On a coffee cup. • "Caution: Shoots rubber bands." -- On a product called "Rubber Band Shooter." • "Warning: May contain small parts." -- On a frisbee. • "Do not use orally." -- On a toilet bowl cleaning brush. • "Please keep out of children." -- On a butcher knife. • "Not suitable for children aged 36 months or less." -- On a birthday card for a 1 year old. • "Do not recharge, put in backwards, or use." -- On a battery. • "Warning: Do not use on eyes." -- In the manual for a heated seat cushion. • "Do not look into laser with remaining eye." -- On a laser pointer. • "Do not use for drying pets." -- In the manual for a microwave oven. • "For use on animals only." -- On an electric cattle prod. • "For use by trained personnel only." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Keep out of reach of children and teenagers." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Remember, objects in the mirror are actually behind you." -- On a motorcycle helmet-mounted rear-view mirror. • "Warning: Riders of personal watercraft may suffer injury due to the forceful injection of water into body cavities either by falling into the water or while mounting the craft." -- In the manual for a jetski. • "Warning: Do not climb inside this bag and zip it up. Doing so will cause injury and death." -- A label inside a protective bag (for fragile objects), which measures 15cm by 15cm by 12cm. • "Do not use as ear plugs." -- On a package of silly putty. • "Please store in the cold section of the refrigerator." -- On a bag of fresh grapes in Australia. • "Warning: knives are sharp!" -- On the packaging of a sharpening stone. • "Not for weight control." -- On a pack of Breath Savers. • "Twist top off with hands. Throw top away. Do not put top in mouth." -- On the label of a bottled drink. • "Theft of this container is a crime." -- On a milk crate. • "Do not use intimately." -- On a tube of deodorant. • "Warning: has been found to cause cancer in laboratory mice." -- On a box of rat poison. • "Fragile. Do not drop." -- Posted on a Boeing 757. • "Cannot be made non-poisonous." -- On the back of a can of de-icing windshield fluid. • "Caution: Remove infant before folding for storage." -- On a portable stroller. • "Excessive dust may be irritating to shin and eyes." -- On a tube of agarose powder, used to make gels. • "Look before driving." -- On the dash board of a mail truck. • "Do not iron clothes on body." -- On packaging for a Rowenta iron. • "Do not drive car or operate machinery." -- On Boot's children's cough medicine. • "For indoor or outdoor use only." -- On a string of Christmas lights. • "Wearing of this garment does not enable you to fly." -- On a child sized Superman costume. • "This door is alarmed from 7:00pm - 7:00am." -- On a hospital's outside access door. • "Beware! To touch these wires is instant death. Anyone found doing so will be prosecuted." -- On a sign at a railroad station. • "Warning: do not use if you have prostate problems." -- On a box of Midol PMS relief tablets. • "Product will be hot after heating." -- On a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not turn upside down." -- On the bottom of a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not light in face. Do not expose to flame." -- On a lighter. • "Choking hazard: This toy is a small ball." -- On the label for a cheap rubber ball toy. • "Not for human consumption." -- On a package of dice. • "May be harmful if swallowed." -- On a shipment of hammers. • "Using Ingenio cookware to destroy your old pots may void your warranty." -- A printed message that appears in a television advertisement when the presenter demonstrates how strong the cookware is by using it to beat up and destroy a regular frying pan. • "Do not attempt to stop the blade with your hand." -- In the manual for a Swedish chainsaw. • "Do not dangle the mouse by its cable or throw the mouse at co-workers." -- From a manual for an SGI computer. • "Warning: May contain nuts." -- On a package of peanuts. • "Do not eat." -- On a slip of paper in a stereo box, referring to the styrofoam packing. • "Do not eat if seal is missing." -- On said seal. • "Remove occupants from the stroller before folding it." • "Access hole only -- not intended for use in lifting box." -- On the sides of a shipping carton, just above cut-out openings which one would assume were handholds. • "Warning: May cause drowsiness." -- On a bottle of Nytol, a brand of sleeping pills. • "Warning: Misuse may cause injury or death." -- Stamped on the metal barrel of a .22 calibre rifle. • "Do not use orally after using rectally." -- In the instructions for an electric thermometer. • "Turn off motor before using this product." -- On the packaging for a chain saw file, used to sharpen the cutting teeth on the chain. • "Not to be used as a personal flotation device." -- On a 6x10 inch inflatable picture frame. • "Do not put in mouth." -- On a box of bottle rockets. • "Remove plastic before eating." -- On the wrapper of a Fruit Roll-Up snack. • "Not dishwasher safe." -- On a remote control for a TV. • "For lifting purposes only." -- On the box for a car jack. • "Do not put lit candles on phone." -- On the instructions for a cordless phone. • "Warning! This is not underwear! Do not attempt to put in pants." -- On the packaging for a wristwatch. • "Do not wear for sumo wrestling." -- From a set of washing instructions. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Assurances: • "Safe for use around pets." -- On a box of Arm & Hammer Cat Litter. ________________________________________ Small Print From Commercials: • "Do not use house paint on face." -- In a Visa commercial that depicts an expecting couple looking for paint at a hardware store. • "Do not drive cars in ocean." -- In a car commercial which shows a car in the ocean. • "Always drive on roads. Not on people." -- From a car commercial which shows a vehicle "body-surfing" at a concert. • "For a limited time only." -- From a Rally's commercial that described how their burgers were fresh. ________________________________________ Signs and Notices: • "No stopping or standing." -- A sign at bus stops everywhere. • "Do not sit under coconut trees." -- A sign on a coconut palm in a West Palm Beach park circa 1950. • "These rows reserved for parents with children." -- A sign in a church. • "All cups leaving this store, rather full or empty, must be paid for." -- A sign in a Cumberland Farms in Hillsboro, New Hampshire. • "Malfunction: Too less water." -- A notice left on a coffee machine. • "Prescriptions cannot be filled by phone." -- On a form in a clinic. • "You could be a winner! No purchase necessary. Details inside." -- On a bag of Fritos. • "Fits one head." -- On a hotel-provided shower cap box. • "Payment is due by the due date." -- On a credit card statement. • "No small children." -- On a laundromat triple washer. • "Warning: Ramp Ends In Stairs." -- A sign, correctly describing the end of a concrete ramp intended for handicap access to a bridge. ________________________________________ Safety Procedures: • "Take care: new non-slip surface." -- On a sign in front of a newly renovated ramp that led to the entrance of a building. • "In case of flood, proceed uphill. In case of flash flood, proceed uphill quickly." -- One of the emergency safety procedures at a summer camp. ________________________________________ Ingredients: • "Ingredients: Artificially bleached flour, sugar, vegetable fat, yeast, salt, gluten, soya flour, emulsifier 472 (E) & 481, flour treatment agents, enzymes, water. May contain: fruit." -- The ingredients list on a package of fruit buns. • "100% pure yarn." -- On a sweater. • "Some materials may irritate sensitive skin. Please look at the materials if you believe this may be the case. Materials: Covering: 100% Unknown. Stuffing: 100% Unknown." -- On a pillow. • "Cleans and refreshes without soap or water. Contains: Water, fragrance & soap." -- On the packet for a moist towelette. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Instructions: • "Remove the plastic wrapper." -- The first instruction on a bag of microwave popcorn; to see the instructions, one first has to remove the plastic wrapper and unfold the pouch. • "Take one capsule by mouth three times daily until gone." -- On a box of pills. • "Open packet. Eat contents." -- Instructions on a packet of airline peanuts. • "Remove wrapper, open mouth, insert muffin, eat." -- Instructions on the packaging for a muffin at a 7-11. • "Use like regular soap." -- On a bar of Dial soap. • "Instructions: usage known." -- Instructions on a can of black pepper. • "Serving suggestion: Defrost." -- On a Swann frozen dinner. • "Simply pour the biscuits into a bowl and allow the cat to eat when it wants." -- On a bag of cat biscuits. • "In order to get out of car, open door, get out, lock doors, and then close doors." -- In a car manual. • "Please include the proper portion of your bill." -- On the envelope for an auto insurance bill. • "The appliance is switched on by setting the on/off switch to the 'on' position." -- Instructions for an espresso kettle. • "For heat-retaining corrugated cardboard technology to function properly, close lid." -- On a Domino's sandwich box. ________________________________________ Requirements: • "Optional modem required." -- On a computer software package.

Topic by LoneWolf   |  last reply


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard for PC!!! Handmade please look!!

Check out this eBay auction for the following SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard!!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=170344004923&ssPageName;=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123"SteamPunk" Typewriter Keyboard for PCThis is a custom made "Steampunk" Typewriter Keyboard that is fully functional and works with any PC! I hand made this over the course of many weeks of hard and meticulous work, using the guts of a very solid Logitech PC keyboard system which I completely rebuilt over many stages, into this solid, beautiful, and unique piece of antique technological art! Three separate sets of antique Royal glass typewriter keys make up all of the keys besides the handmade brass keys (described below). I can personally guarantee this keyboard is completely unique, and you won't find anything like it out on the market! This new beautiful style of combining the old Victorian look with new high-tech products is becoming very popular from young teens looking to be creative and inspired to rich business CEO's wanting something beautiful to match their office. Think about the all the joy and beauty this would bring to your life (not to mention bragging rights!). Right now is your chance to own a piece or art and history which you can put to use everyday!This keyboards design consists of:Solid glass keys from a three different sets of original antique Royal early 1900's typewriters.Hand and naturally aged copper top and bottom rails.Custom, hand punched, leather backing (perfectly fitted and stretched over the top and seamed underneath).Custom bent steel side brackets (which have been properly welded to the copper rails to make a very solid keyboard).Beautiful antique cloth wire loom covering computer connector.Hand made brass Esc key, F keys (done in roman numerals), Arrows, and nine keys above Arrows (because they didn't make any of these keys on antique typewriters).Brief "Steampunk" HistorySteampunk is a sub-genre of fantasy and speculative fiction that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used usually the 19th century, and often Victorian era England but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date.Functionality and BeautyAs I keep strongly pointing out, not only does this piece of techno-art look beautiful, but it also works as beautifully too! All the keys were lubricated then meticulously aligned and ergonomically angled with high strength silicon glue, which will stand up to many years of hard use! Keys that weren't available (such as the F keys and arrows) I custom made from brass which was then clear coated for years of protection.A Brief Fabrication ProcessThis whole keyboard started with an idea in my head one day, and then turned into numbers of sketches and design ideas until I filled my notebook and decided it was time to make it! I started with a high quality Logitech PC keyboard, and gutted it down to the bare parts. Then after trimming all the borders off the top frame I perfectly aligned the key frame back together with now a flat surface. Next I had to hand cut all the key tops off and level them for attachment of the Royal typewriter keys. During this process I custom made the copper/steel rails and side pieces making sure the height and angle was ergonomically correct. Next was the custom punching of the leather backing which was quite difficult to align perfectly, but came out beautifully! Finally the smaller things like the light posts, cloth wire loom, painting and copper aging, and electrical work was done. (P.S. Like I said, this is a very brief summary of the complete process! Many, many steps took place during this fabrication!)Level, Sturdy, and Desk Scratching Friendly!This frame was professionally welded together by a hired welder who meticulously made sure was level and solid. Every detail about this keyboard was thoroughly thought through, down to the hidden padded bases so it won't slide around on your desk or scratch it!You Wont Find Anything Like It!Obviously you can tell by now that this is a very custom piece of art that you have the chance to own and display in your office or home! You can't imagine the beauty of this in real life, pictures just simply do no justice! A few other people have attempted to make such type of typewriter keyboards that consist of the original ugly plastic base and just changed keys.... this keyboard goes above and beyond the bar and you will not be disappointed!Reduced Environmental ImpactAs always, I tried to stay eco-conscious while designing and fabricating this keyboard. It was designed with the following features to reduce its environmental impact:High quality polyurethane based Leather alternative (no animals harmed!)Recycled copper pipingOriginal and restored Royal typewriter keys.Highly recyclable parts (although you'll never want to get rid of this!)

Topic by maxter32   |  last reply


"Secrets" about CB/UHF antennas on your car

Despite more and cellphone and internet coverage mobile radios are still a favourite of people in remote areas or just loving to explore by 4WD.And for most the complex task of starting with this great hobby ends by buying a radio and antenna.Of course the raio goes it fits best and that is fine but what about that antenna and while at it what type of antenna do you need?Let's start with the great myth that so called rugged or heavy duty antennas are really worth their money.Durability and stiffness is their main selling point or better was.At highway speeds they won't bend and flex around like your whip antenna.In the bush they won't swing all the way down onto the painted parts of your car either.But then again, a more solid steel whip on a spring base would do the same - but won't look as cool or proffessional...Inside those plastic or fibreglass rods is a dipole antenna, in rare case you get a 5/8 configuration or even a normal steel whip with a pipe around it...Means in terms of reception or transmission quality they are not a tiny better or worse than any other antenna out there.Come down to well it is tuned and where the radiating part is located.Location...There are often obvious choices to put an antenna, like that nice mount or your nudge- or bull-bar.Or the good old boot clamp in the back.I have even see 4WD's with the antenna mounted onto the rear bumper :(Why is it so important to place the antenna correctly?Place on the front corner of your car it is not only quite low but also partially covered by the metal parts of your car - limiting where the antenna can properly radiate.If you ever got some half decent training on a tiny handheld UHF radio then you remember to seek higher ground if you can't get anyone to hear you.The same is true for the antenna on your car.You want nothing obstructing it.People with a long spring base often think of it as just an elevated foot.Most of these however are "ground idependent", which means they actually form a dipole with the antenna you screw on the top.Having this "pole" below bonnet hight is quite bad for your reach and reception quality already.Mounting just a normal whip on a direct foot here means you might have better luck with a handhelp from inside the car...The best would be right in the center of your roof, the highest and most centered point.This provides not only the optimum radiation pattern but also give you that little edge in terms of higher ground.How much gain do I need and how long should my antenna be?Gain is quite relative if you ask me as it far more important to mount the antenna in the best possible place.A 3DB antenna on the roof will often provide better reception and range than a 9DB mounted on the bullbar.Assuming you have the best feasable location than to simplify it:The further you can see the higher DB you want if reaching far is the main objective.For general use a 4.5 - 6DB antenna is always good.In hilly terrain range does not matter that much, here you want the outgoing signal to be as strong as possible and with a shape that allows better coverage by being more like a sphere.For extreme cases it can mean on a 9DB antenna your friend that is just over that little bump ahead is not visible and with that can't hear you.On a 3DB antenna however the signal is strong enough to reach that blindspot at a short distance.The overall length of an antenna can be deceiving for UHF frequencies.What matters is where the antenna is radiating from.In most cases it will be the top 15 to 30 cm of your antenna.For a dipole or ground independent antenna you often need to include the entrire base mount.Antenna tuning....For the good old 27MHz bands we always had our SWR meter at hand and tried to get the best tuning.Since the big jump to UHF the commercial antennas come pre-tuned and are claimed to be good to go.That means that are within acceptable performance to fit almost all installation locations.In terms of SWR reading it means that 1 over 3 is still perfectly fine.Would have been an outcry on 27Mhz though in my times.What is true though that there is not that much real difference to notice between a near perfect 1 over 1.1 to 1 over 3.If you would bother to a distance test it might be less than 200m you gain on the near perfect antenna.For the reception it does not even matter all, so why bother anyway?On the much lower frequencies a really good SWR does not only mean you can get your signal much further out there but also that your transmitter is happy.Modern ones are now all digital and have ways to protect and compensate for bad antennas or cables.Together it means we could just forget about these few extra meters and move on.The stress on the transmitter in your UHF radio however is still there ;)The reflective energy from a badly tuned antenna has to go somewhere and that is usually back into the transmitter.The bit that lost directly to your antenna, as said, does not matter too much with the overall limited range of the UHF frequencies.I did quite a lot of experimenting with my own and commercail UHF antennas, so a network analyser and SWR meter was a requirement anyway.In terms of output power a good SWR reading means you get what your transmitter is capable of and set for.With an SRW reading between 2.5 and 3 however a 4W radio might only actually transmit 3-3.5W.With a bad mounting and an not so optimal cable it might go below 3W!Distance is not so much affected by this as we now know, but the loss in power on 3DB antenna in hilly terrain can make the difference between being heard and your signal getting lost in static on the other end.Repairing a blown transmitter often costs more than a simple SWR meter for UHF, so why not add it to the Xmas wish list? ;)Two antennas...In some case you want two antennas.Be it for two different DB ratings on the same radio or for totally different frequencies.High and centered is still best here but you should keep the antennas as far apart as possible, preferable at different heights as well.On a single radio it does not matter too much but right next to each other the unused anteanna is like these beams on your TV antenna on the roof.Unlike the directional and watned features in a Yagi antenna the unused element means we change the radiation pattern.In the worst case creating a blindspot from which direction we won't get any signals.As a rule of thumb let them be apart at least twisc as far as the wavelenght, so for UHF over 65cm.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Polishing small or very detailed metal parts - the easy way ;)

I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


The more natural way of cleaning things...

At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.

Topic by Downunder35m 


Is my book good ?

Well i hate to bother anyone but can you please take some time to read this book i worked hard on ? i spent  countless hours of my free time over the weekend developing the plot and creatures so can you please take some time out to read the whole thing tell me what it needs or what would be good i already am 16 pages into the sequel so tell me if this is good so i can post the sequel ! enjoy Times come by Alby Chapter 1- beginning It was the night I would never forget,the night.......i....the......the last night I would enjoy life. It was spring of 2017 the night air was heavy in my lungs and you could faintly smell the BBQ and charcoal smoke from cookouts that died down hours ago I could here people talking and having a good time but I think my drink I grabbed the wrong beer it was Sarah's it was spiked I never would have noticed who did it at least it wasn't her to drink it. I simply enjoyed the sky line of Chicago filled with sky scrapers and mirror like office buildings it all seemed like a Bokeh picture to me the drug is taking affect on my body I feel dizzy . I hopped on the train, it was empty as for the weather gave a good reason to walk but I needed to get home safely. In about 30 minutes I was home. I clumsily walked up the stairs and almost fell it took about ten minutes before I opened the door, I then plopped down on my bed and ran to the bathroom and regurgitated everything I ate that night. i starred at the ceiling. I saw every detail to the nearest centimeter and then blurry the specks the marks swirled in my vision and I felt weightless for a while. I starred at the clock and noticed it was about 4:00 am and cursed myself for going to that bar with Sarah I threw up all over my bed. I tried to grab the phone to call the paramedics but I fell and hit my head on my night stand. I passed out from the concussion i fell into a deep sleep a very deep sleep. Chapter 2 Change I wiped the crust out of my eyes and felt my head a sharp pain rippled thru my scalp it was a Gash about two inches in length. i walked into the bathroom I pulled the faucet but all that came out was a wisp of air. I snatched a baby wipe and cleaned off my face I cleaned my wound with alcohol the sting ive gotten used to I used to get hurt pretty bad in the army, I got shrapnel in my knee and they sent me home the first year. I noticed a dead silence on the street I thought they probably closed it off for some type of repair. I put on my white tee shirt and noticed its softness and how it fit snug on my semi-muscular figure I was in good shape for a twenty-four year old, my mom would always tell me most of the people in America are fat but I guess she loves to tell stereotypes for what they are. I put on my jeans and not forgetting the belt this time either. I snatched my keys off the kitchen counter and headed for the door. I walked outside and paused too look at the empty streets filled with litter and carnage . My mouth wide open in amazement I asked myself what happened and pondered the different reasons riot,panic,fire what could cause such a mess, I walked towards a police squad car and smelled something rancid I slowly proceeded, I instantly veered back in panic I could not believe what I saw a dead police officer lying face down with half a chunk blown clean off his head. There were pieces of it every where splattered on the windshield and door of the police car and some on the concrete. I instinctively inched towards him and thought to myself that something bad is happening and I need protection. I unhooked his holster off his waist and placed it on mine I pulled off his Kevlar vest and put it on weirdly enough it barely was messy or smelled bad. I checked the pockets of the vest and took out a pair of keys I knew it belonged to his squad car. I first popped open the trunk and saw it glistening in the sun a Ar-15 assault rifle. I picked it up and the memories of my army training it just instantly popped into my mind. I guess it applied the same here, I slung it around my back and walked into the silence. I took out the pistol put in the clip pulled the slide back and switched the safety off and cautiously held it. I believe the gun made me more nervous than whats in the shadows, I walked down the narrow street and saw it the skyline of the city filled with smoke and fire. I stood in anger and confusion my home town ravaged broken and charred blood stained the streets and walls, but why.....why....how could this... I mean what could....d..do such a thing. I walked away in the opposite direction and then cut into an alley way to piss and paused as I heard a roar I looked up and saw a quick glance of the belly of a apache attack craft it quickly zoom by and then another. I looked away and ran out of the alley and then down the street to see what direction they were heading. They sped towards the lake area and then I saw a tiny black object fall horizontally from the choppers belly and it slowly fell, then a explosion. I could feel the vibrations. the explosion ripped the lake area into nothing....nothing..but....but...smoke. My heart skipped a few beats thinking what if the next one falls in this area I quickly broke my daydream and bolted as fast as I could as far as I could until I saw a woman crawling on the concrete she was Moaning and holding her stomach. I came up behind her and asked for help. She turned on her back “ Sarah? Ohh my god sarah are you okay ?” and she held a gun in her hand a Glock 22 model the slide locked all the way back and no clip in the gun. I kicked it out of her and and sprung on her she begged for mercy “albert you have to stay away from me im turning” she saw that I was armed and quickly told me the gun was unloaded and that she was sorry she told me she would do anything just get away from her . I told her “Im not here to hurt anyone I just want to help” I starred at her beautiful figure her perfect face and thin hourglass body but ragged cloths and red eyes from crying. How and what did she go thru that could turn her into such a wreck. She got up and put her arm around my shoulder kissed me on the cheek and passed out. I dragged her to an fenced off alley where there was a mattress I put her down and sat next to her .she hugged me and began to cry she than jumped on top of me “Sarah what are you doing no we cant do this now no!” I told her I will help her but I dont think she understood a word I said. She looked at me in my eyes I could feel her touch my soul, her blue eyes glared in the sun. “i dont want to die alone please” I stood up nervously, I was concerned for her health when suddenly I heard a bang then felt a sharp pain in my leg. I collapsed in agony and saw the cause of my pain a bean bag round I looked up and saw a gas mask wearing figure he shot me with another bean bag round in the knee, from his shot gun he then walked over my numb body and. picked up both bean bag's and threw it aside two people in hazmat gear grabbed Sarah and took off her clothing I screamed “what are you doing to her!!!” they did not acknowledge me they looked at her body like they where searching for something. Her passed out figure limp as a rag doll they removed her pants then her underwear I screamed “No!! you son of a bitch don't do it ill kill you” they studied a bite mark on her upper thigh they made some type of hand signal and left. the soldiers then they came and started pouring gasoline on the mattress and her body. the one with the kriss super V took his cigarette out of his mouth and then flicked it at her it rolled of of her shapely belly and hit the mattress her body bursted into flames and she spasmed and kicked wildly. Then the man pointed it me and said in a British accent “ knock that fuckin Yankee an put em in da ACP double time, thoes hungry bastards are comin” Chapter 3 world gone mad I awoke on a bed in clean clothes and a hair cut. I stood up and walked into the hallway and noticed that this was a hospital. Suddenly a hand grabbed me. “aey where do you think your going ya damn runner rapist” I starred at him & his arrogant look and heavily customized ACR bushmaster. “get the fuck away from me im leaving what ever the hell this place is” he then sprung up and pushed the barrel of his ACR into my neck. “look if you want to get devoured by those runners be my guest buddy but dont go exposing this place to the infection” I looked at him like he was retarded “infection what infection and why the hell is the army bombing populated areas” he looked at me the same way. “ where were you 2 days ago ? There was a virus it was originally H1N1 but it evolved up to 10 times now its got Chicago by the balls and its spreading across the world as we speak turning everyone into animals devouring and ripping people to shreds and then the virus takes over the dead body and brings it back as a runner also know as a fresh undead body that has the ability to run or sometimes sprint god forbid but after 2-4 weeks without food the tissue breaks down from constant use without fuel and they start to get slow and shuffle around” my mind felt overwhelmed I wondered how my parents were doing in Dallas. “so what am I supped to do here but be a waste of space” he grinned. “well you obviously know how to use a weapon and our records say you have been in the military. you cant take care of yourself out there so we will make you part of out kill squad. “kill squad ?” “ohh shit you mean you have never killed or seen any infected yet ? that means your fresh you can be put to good use in our kill team” he told me his name was henry the specialist of his team kill team Charlie-mike. He directed me to the staff sergeant who looked at me and said “well well well we got some fresh meat hope you ready for 3 months of hard core trainin cuz this wont be easy now get yo ass in the garage and clean every APC tire the armory I think the kill teams ran over a little too much runners” 3 Months later........ the training was more rigorous than the basic military stuff a the armory where there was at least a 100 others conversing and grabbing into boxes of gear. Henry took me to the gunny of the armory where he helped me choose my gear. I picked up dragon skin Kevlar with implanted ceramic & alloy inserts. I took some gloves which I cut the fingers of. My boots where the basic digital camo color probably a left over from the war in Iraq which ended several years ago when our president simply drew the troops out. And European troops and some Russians finished off the big time terrorists soon after we heard no more from any our genocidal efforts finally payed off. I went to the weapon stand where I had to fill out a ID sheet to make sure they knew I had training with combat rifles. I chose the ACR which was in stock by the thousands as a gift from the weapon companies to the American army. I pulled all the safety clips and then grabbed a eotech scope out of a box and locked it onto the rail system of the weapon. I attached a mag pull the every one of my carbon strength reinforced clips. The gunny looked at me with a grin and we left for briefing. Chapter 4 things get messy we met up in the garage of the hospital every runner hunter of this kill force a total of 300 men and women in the huge elevated parking complex of the hospital, a general arrived in the elevator his chrome glasses shined in the evening light so did the many badges pinned on his suit which fit his old figure rather awkwardly. he had two formally dressed men with him they both had desert eagles on there side holsters but the general had a FN 2000 slung around his back. it was worn and scratched its polymer body was embedded with and insignia that I did not see so well as it was obscured by the scuffs and grime he looked at us and smiled his mouth opened and he flung his cigar off the ledge of the building he then begun and explained in a dominant voice. “there are 40 spec op Humvee's set up in formation ready to patrol the streets of Chicago you all will be in sector 6 the most dangerous sector of Chicago but no need to worry we have full fledged firepower of 4 APC's which will Carrie your kill team to your objectives take as much time as needed the runners arent going any where. you will clear the sears tower area a hot spot for runners. look all you men and woman, its time to revolt and fight back. its time to say we will not be scared, we will not be intimidated, we will win back our freedom!!” the whole complex light up with cheer. As the two men in formal wear took out PDA's and started directing people to there kill teams the first man shouted “ Chavez,Williams,buck, and,Samson go to APC #1” I quickly advanced thru the crowd to APC 1 I slowed my pace and saw its matte paint job of digital camo and its pop up dillan machine gun turret mounted on top. I pounded on its steel behind and its back door unlatched I stood waiting for the rest of my team I saw all three walking in a line towards the door I saw him ,the man with the kriss super V he smiled at me and said “no fuckin way you tha yankee we picked up in tha alley way you mad cus we killed your little runner girlfriend” I sprung towards him and grabbed his collar and punched him in the stomach then elbowed him in the mouth all the color drained out of his face. “ if you wouldn't of shot me with a fucking bean bag I would of blown your brains out back at the alley” he looked at me and with blood dripping down his mouth “i was just doing my job. welcome to foxtrot 3 by my names john samson you can just call me hunter” I let him go and he limped into the APC then another walked towards me he wore a Grey baklava and tight fitting clothing and a vest that barely covered his chest which awkwardly bulged out he walked towards me and took off the mask. She looked at m surprised face and said “what ? a woman cant be in the military” “well I..I...I just did not expect to have such a high rank personnel on our team” she looked at me and frowend “were both specialists grade one my names Kelly williams” “a heavily armored male in a hijab walked towards me playfully he came up to me and pulled off his hijab he was a African American . “hey specialist now look Im basically here to keep the moral you catch me ? I was in the navy im Ricky buckman Just call me squid now what do you want to go by kid?” I smiled “echo” “nice choice” Albert “echo” chavez I thought in my head I figured that sounds good. We all jumped in the APC while a kill team of rangers in a heavy Humvee with a mounted sentry gun rolled behind us as the whole convoy of kill force 6 prepared for battle. I thought about all my training aim for the head,short controlled bursts a shot anywhere else just stunned them. They move fast so they have to be neutralized if you get bitten or infected kill yourself with the poison capsule that was given or a team mate would do it. I grabbed a Kukri blade off the weapon rack that was provided in the APC I looked at its razor sharp edge its brushed steel surface reflected no light I sheathed it and strapped it to my leg. I caught the eye of Kelly who was fiddling around with the UAV control panel she looked at me and smiled. The APC's lights blinked red prompting us that we are in a hot zone. The APC vibrated as the co pilot took out a pack of runners with the Dillon remote controlled mini gun. We all loaded our weapons and packed up some ammo. Hunter and squid looked at each other and they bumped fists. I put a clip in my ACR and cocked it I turned on the eotech scope and strapped on my helmet and then slid on a black baklava. The APC driver prompted a alarm which was the signal that the door was opening, the big metal door slowly lowered its platform to the ground and we all got out Kelly was the last one out she grabbed that control panel and slid it into her bag she ran out and flipped the close button on the APC. We met up with the four other teams in our sector who already exited there Humvee's. A black Humvee that I never knew was in the convoy rode up and a military adviser jumped out and barked orders like some scared little dog and then jumped back in glad that he wasn't us. He positioned eight snipers on the roof who where each divided into teams of four they zip lined up the roofs and soon each team where picked up by two little bird helicopters the rest of us where on the ground either Humvee calvary hit teams or long range grenade support foxtrot was positioned on the magnificent mile at least it was magnificent. We cautiously walked down the street with another team of 6 watching our back and little birds with snipers covering us and telling us where the nearest pack is. It was empty until we got a report a pack of twenty runners where heading straight for us about 3 blocks away we had about a minute to prepare, snipers took out some and only six broke there steady aim and where 5 feet away, I drew my weapon and just before I could fire a Humvee rammed half the pack of runners over my team shot at there heads to finish them off . I stunted back and fell startled by a runner with broken legs dragging its smelly corpse towards me, my team did not even notice as they where pre occupied with finishing off the pack it grabbed my boot and pulled itself onto my chest I pushed it back and hunter tackled it and shot it once it grazed its ear he then rad up to it and curb stomped its head in over and over, like an egg it crunched under his boot he then walked towards me and picked me up and then our comm's screeched with a danger code: sector red REPEAT SECTOR RED!! this is not a drill!! squid looked at Kelly “OH shit radio the APC radio the APC!!” Kelly hastily radioed the APC and it arrived around the corner ASAP she got in and took the panel out of her backpack all the rangers got back in there Humvee's and formed up a line of vehicle's and the APC was in front we all jumped in and squid popped open 3 of the four combat hatches. We took stance and poked our body's out of the hatches while Kelly was typing away at the panel. “Kelly get us that predator drone NOW!!” “on it Echo..about.....NOW!! get ready for some boom boom boys” she said over the comm a predator drone deployed from a building somewhere and roared across the city's night sky. The little birds shot flares into out immediate area and the military advisor said nervously over the comm “formation green zone ASAP make space for one more hummer!!” his hummer screeched into our circle formation at the middle of the block intersection. We all could hear the uproar and the screaming rage of the Runners it was 9:00 PM and my stomach dropped as runners came at us from every angle swarming in between all the vehicles as we took out as much as we can the advisor yelled. “Break formation head for lane 3 of sector 5 Kelly yelled “but thats a dead end we have no where to go !!” “exactly now MOVE !!” we hastily rammed out way thru the crowd of runners it was easily about 200 to 300 runners we reached the street which was a dead end it was blocked by a collapsed building from all the beach bombing runs. We waited for 5 minutes until we saw it our doom three times as much runners appeared and headed for the convoy. The driver looked bewildered “Get ready im breaking position” he advanced the APC towards the crowd its massive tires gripping the rubble and concrete so agile and quick. He opened fire the Dillon mini gun until there was not one round left. the APC swiveled madly like a dog chasing its tail, all the blood and body matter stuck to the tire made it impossible to control. The whole interior rocked forward on impact with the flipped car. suddenly a screech and the APC flipped over on its side. the runners ignored the APC and went for the group of Humvee's ripping the rangers out that had not locked there Humvee door and devouring them. We herd the screams despite layer after layer of Kevlar and Armour of the APC. My radio started to squawk. “ Pindad Panser down repeat,flipped on its side calling in little bird for support !! bring in UH-60 shadow for medivac ASAP!” I groaned in pain the impact was hard,i could taste blood in my mouth my world was spinning. my team mates did not move they where all laying face down. I soon passed out Chapter 5 delta crimson “Delta crimson GO GO GO !!” I awoke in a sweat, I felt normal again I wiped my blood crusted face off. I leaned up and saw them. “Squid Kelly Hunter Your all alive !” hunter smiled “the crowds not givin up. Hurry mate we got to get outta this APC or crimson is just gonna have to save us” Crimson was an elite rescue squad of some of the best rescue force members in the military marines,rangers,green berets, you name em they can save you. Suddenly we heard the roar of helicopters. Then the door of the APC light up and blew of its hinges a soldier in a crimson baklava shined a light me and my team he latched two metal hooks onto our APC and then the helicopter lifted us into the air, this vehicle the best attack helicopter crafted by the engineer crew over at Hudson base they called it the Shadow because thats all it was, a quick killer in the night. A man made machine manufactured to kill and thats what it was best at. I broke for the chopper and jumped in then squid then Kelly it started to take off right before it left ground hunter grabbed the bay door and climbed in. “forgetting something ?” He threw me my ACR bushmaster which started to look like the generals FN 2000 it was scuffed and marked in every crack and crease. A crimson medivac specialist handed us some refreshments and snacks he said he picked it up at his last raid. He gave me some meds, adrenalin shots use them as a last resort of energy he said. I looked at squid who was holding his dog tag “ man echo you see how that APC flipped on us I almost crapped my pant's” I laughed at the joke even if its not funny my team needs the moral. I looked it the pilot he caught my stare. “where going to the main objective” I sighed and looked away hunter looked at me and made some type of hand signal. “hey Kelly you think we could of died back there” “easily hunter luckily the runners did not find our APC interesting” I looked over at Kelly who was looking at the cracked screen of the control panel. “hey Kelly what all did you use that panel for” “i saved the whole platoon with this thing while you where taking a nap, now its gone and base is a long fly away. The screen broke when the APC flipped. And the predator drone crashed without me controlling it” “damn, nothing good ever lasts long does it” “well echo thats not true your still alive aren't you ?” I we both smiled and when the happiness broke it was back to work. chapter 6 Raid The shadow landed on the roof of a building about 3 blocks away from objective R.R.T.R (runner ruled territory raid) our forces had to kill all runners and take back the sears tower. Kelly was stationed on the roof with hundreds of other snipers .with her barret M82 which ripped into 2 to 3 runners at a time with its large caliber amour piercing rounds. Military advisors sent Ground troops they marched the streets for the main attack on the R.R.T (runner ruled territory). Soldiers of all pact creed and faction marched side by side. the ISF (Iraqi Security Forces) the IRA (Irish Republican Army) even the CIA and DEA forces were marching along with whole police precincts including the bulk of the U.S military. This battle was inevitable and we are going to win.

Topic by albylovesscience   |  last reply