Hi, I live in palestine and I am making a cooling progect for school. I has thinking about where can I find a peltier unit at house? I need your help !fast!
Question by sajy 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I hope someone with a technical background can help me with this... I am trying to make an DIY dehumidifier. The goal is to lower the humidity of my room during the summer months (humidity is around 70% at 25C) to less than 50, preferrable 30%. I have the following setup in mind: To achieve condensation I want to use a peltier that will lower the temperature of an radiator. The condensed water will be gathered in a (plastic) box. This water will then be used to cool the hot side of the peltier, using a water block and a waterpump that was left over after using watercooling on my PC. The image depicts an simple graphic of the setup. However, I have the following questions to be answered: - How cold (relative to the ambient temperature) would the cold-side radiator have to be to get optimal condensation - How much watts of cooling power would the peltier need in order to achieve the needed temperature difference - If i lower the cold side temperature with 20C, how much heat would be generated on the hot side? (my gues: 20C, but im no genius ;) ) Thanks in advance!
Topic by pelzinga 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I am trying to design a heating system for an animal incubator that can be transported in a car to rescue animals and keep their body temperature level. I was thinking of using the peltier systems to heat the box the animals will be staying in but I'm not sure if they would have the capability of 70-90 degrees fahrenheit. Also the temperature needs to be very specific (plus or minus 1 degree) is there a thermometer out there that would work well for this? I just need some help on learning about these because I've done a little research but I'm still confused on how they work and if I could even use them. Also, is there a good website to buy these on? I could use a lot of little ones or one medium sized one (up to 1ft by 1ft) but not too tall.
Topic by oabf19 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hey, I have 2 158W Peltier elements, that I would like to mount to some CPU-heatsinks, and power with an old 400W PSU. Can I "just do that"? There seams to be some caveats with how these units draw power AFAIK. Also, does anyone have any experience with how much heat displacement is needed to not just ending up frying the unit? Any suggestions on what heatsink to pair them with, and how strong a resistor to put on them? I want to use them at the maximum power I can get them to run with continuously for up to 2 hours. I have way too limited experience with electronics, and only a week to build my project, so I kind of have to go with the simplest approach here :(
Question by ELF 8 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I was looking around at some of the air water harvesters tonight and of thinking about using a Peltier unit for one. Just started thinking and I know very little about either one of these. So my question is, could you use the cold side of a peltier to get an air current down to just below dew point causing humidity to condense on maybe a heat sink or something so it could be collected and use the hot side to create the air flow by a chimney effect? No moving parts. Solar power it so it an be used anywhere in the world? Could be something that could supply clean water to people in need.
Question by dayfid12 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi, I have read about technical specification of a thermoelectric peltier TEC1-12726 . The U max =15v , I max =26.3 and Qc max =257.27w. I would like to know about the cooling power in wat(cooling generating). It seems that the power consumption is about 400w. I have heard that thermoelectric peltiers have good and high efficiency. I need some more information about any other powerfull peltiers with high efficiency to build an air condition unit. I need to make sure the power is the cooling power and/or power consumption. I would be so grateful to have some good suggestions and ideas as well. Regards Kevin
Question by sajadi007 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I have 150W peltier element, and I plan to build a mini fridge for my car, so I was wondering if its safe to just directly connect peltier element to 12v car cigarette socket with 2 in parallel attached cpu cooling fans (12v 0.15A). Can it be done, or any other sugesstions?
Question by xtony666 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Can i use PWM on the motherboard or do i have to buy a separate controller? I plan to use it on a high TDP CPU like the Xen E5 1650v4.
Question by PhuckhangN 9 months ago
Hey guys,So, I just got a Peltier plate, a device that gets very hot on one side while very cold on the other. It requires 90 watts of power. I was just curious what would happen if you powered it by USB or 9v battery. I found this tutorial which uses USB, however, I doubt it gets to its maximum coolness potential. Also, if I used a 9v, would that drain the battery in a matter of minutes, or even damage the plate?Thank you.
Topic by Joe426 11 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Needs help putting assembling a thermoelectric module for a possible inventing. Suggestions on the supplies and parts needed
Topic by jayhead 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am planning on buying a peltier unit and have a few questions about it. This website gave me the idea so I figured I would ask here.What I'm planning to buy, http://www.virtualvillage.com/158w-thermoelectric-cooler-peltier-plate/sku001540-003I'm just going to list the questions and hope that someone is willing to answer,1. I understand that these unit get very hot and very cold at the same time, from my knowledge (which is not much so correct me if I'm wrong) of electronics the cold isn't really much of an issue but the heat could cause problems. Do I need to run a heatsink maybe with a fan on the hot side to prevent damage to the unit?2. It lists its' range as 0-15volts and 0-10amps I know overpowering a unit can cause damage to it, can under-powering non-mechanical electronics cause damage as well? Can you even under-power a peltier unit?3. On the website it states "Temperature Range: -60C to 180C" is this the temperature range I can expect the unit to reach at 158W or is it the range in which the device will operate?I would like to thank anyone in advance for taking the time to answer any of these questions.
Topic by Tpolich 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
A peltier is a element that gets very hot on one side, and very cold on the other side. Cold enough (with enough power) to make frost all over it. So. I got one, I want to make nice cold cold air. I read wiki, if you don't heat sink it, it will self destroy. If I heatsink the cold side, then a fan on the heat sink to blow the cold freeze air, will it be fine? Or must I cool the hot side too? Peltiers are cool :D
Topic by Killa-X 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I need a peltier chip for a project and I'm a little confused how they work. I'm pretty sure I got it right, but not positive. Can someone tell me if this is right? The hot side of a peltier chip is attached to a heatsink with "grease" (can someone tell me where to get that?) then a fan blows the hot air away from the peltier chip from the side and another fan blows across the side of the peltier chip to its intended destination for cooling. Is this right?
Question by Adum24 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Question by hyperphreak 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I just ordered some of these 20mm x 20mm Peltier Cooling Plates and would like to power them with a USB hub. Their rated at max of 4 amps and a max 3.8 volts and I know that generally USB is 5V and 500mA. So I know I need to just reduce the voltage, but I'm not sure how to accomplish this. I think I could drive them at 3.5V and still be okay, Not sure if I need a voltage regulator or if just resistors would do the trick. Thank you Kurt
Question by KurtRoesener 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I like to make a Peltier air cooler. how much watts Peltier is needed and battery for Peltier cooler to run for 8 hour.if i use less watts Peltier does it affect the cooling rate. is it possible to place place another Peltier above heat sink while the other one Peltier is working, if possible how much amount of power can be produced from the Peltier placed above heat sink. Thanks
Question by nibytm 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Would building an array of peltier units in a windows frame work to cool down a room? This way hot air would stay outside and the inside "windows" would be cold. Either using heatsink and multiples computer fans to throw air in room or pumping water in pipes then on the units then to a big fan. Also, could this run on solar cells placed on the outside?
Question by gazoutg 9 years ago | last reply 9 months ago
I'm going to build a Mini Airconditioner based on Peltier Module. I'm going to use 10 Peltier Module for better cooling. 1 Peltier requires Umax (V):15.4 Imax (A):15 Max power consumption (watt):231 Watt. Which Power Supply Driver is required to run all 10 Peltier Elements. [I am from Non-Electrical Background].
Topic by Karthiie keyan 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hey guys I am working on a project, my first, and am wondering if any one is willing to offer advice. the simple setup uses a swamp cooler to blow cold air over a radiator. the radiator cools down water that is connected to a peltier.if my theory is half accurate (which at best it is) I should be able to make the peltier quite a few degrees below the ambient temperature.
Topic by plucas1 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I am looking at using a pair of Peltier panels to make a "spot reducer" using cryolipolysis. Cryolipolysis is what the Zeltiq machine uses to freeze fat cells such that they dissolve. On a bodybuilding forum they were talking about using cool-paks, those gel-filled plastic blocks that you put in the freezer. My idea is to take a hand clamp and mount the Peltiers to it. I may need cooling on the hot sides, for that I will probably use liquid cooling blocks from computer CPU coolers. Then, you just clamp those babies on your love handles and crank up the juice. "Animal studies show a fat-reducing effect starting at around minus 1C, with the plate in place from five to 20 minutes." Since Peltiers get about 65 degrees C in differential, and room temp is about 26 degrees (warm room!) it will be a piece of cake for the junction to chill off those love handles. Would not be hard to put a temp controller on it to protect from frostbite or from burning up the junctions. Before you scoff, a Zeltiq treatment runs $700!
Question by Exocetid 8 years ago | last reply 8 months ago
Ok, I have a laptop that I use to play many videogames with, and as you can imagine, it has an overheating is a problem. I have software that monitors the GPU and CPU temperatures while I play. The GPU and CPU are rated at a 100c max temperature. Now that the summer season has started, my laptop gets hotter and hotter as I play. I am usually forced to Under-volt my computer so that it stays below safe temperatures. Now, I was digging around online and came across something called a "Peltier device". It is a small ceramic plate (with electrical nodes inside) that when electrified, transfers the heat from one side to the other. The peltier I got is rated at 545 watts, 32 amps, and 18vdc, and gets as cold as -60c, 150c. I ordered a desktop power supply online, along with 2 CPU cooling systems. (I.E. 2x Professional grade heat-sink, and 2x 120mm fan) The Power supply outputs 430watts, 28 amps, and 12vdc. I planned on taking these parts and simply sandwiching the peltier between 2 heatsinks, having 1 hot heatsink+fan and 1 cold heatsink+fan. I planned on pumping the cold air into the air intake on the bottom of my laptop, and just pump the hot air into the room. Unfortunately, the problem I face (and this is a really stupid mistake) was that I did not measure out this whole assembly. It turns out, the peltier face plates are roughly 2.5" x 2.5", whereas the heat-transfer faceplate of the heatsinks are only about 1.5" x 1.5". Now, I wired this all up, and put it all together, ignoring the parts of the peltier that were hanging off and lo' and behold, the peltier worked as designed, one side got extremely cold, and the other got hot. The only problem is, over time, since nothing was drawing the heat away from the edges of the hot side, it transferred over to the cold side, thus warming it up to about room temperature, negating the entire purpose of the contraption. This is the part that I need help on, would simply taking some aluminum plates that are large enough to cover the entire surface of the peltier, smother both sides in my remaining thermal compound, and then connect this aluminum (with more thermal compound) to the heatsink? This contraption is essentially meant to be a laptop cooling pad. Mounted inside of an old computer case. So it needs to be mobile (IE, liquid cooling is not an option). Can anyone think of a better solution to this?
Question by schwerlin 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
i am using peltier modules 12706 ( vmax 15 v, Imax 6 A) by checking it was running at 12 v and 3.5 A and peltier module 12715 ( Vmax 15V , I max 15 A ) was running at 12 v and 5.5 A I am using computer SMPS to run this peltiers so i can only get 12 v max is there any way to increase voltage to 15 volt.
Question by YogeshK33 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I want to use this item (peltier module) to create a cooler. It will use a fan + heatsink to blow cool air. I dont have much knowledge in circuitry (only highschool level) so I wanted to know what I would need to create this and how the design should be. Thanks
Question by freerun 9 months ago | last reply 9 months ago
I have extracted a peltier TEC unit from my small USB fridge. I intend to put the cooling unit into a bigger and more better casing so it'll cool other things rather than a can softdrink. The problem is, it's just getting 18' celcius and I need it to be lower than that. I've tried using a USB charger that outputs the usual usb 5V but 1 amp, the temp just goes down 1-2' celcius.I want to put a higher voltage power into the cooling unit, but I'm afraid that I'll just burn the thing out.But the problem is, I don't know the spec of the peltier unit that I have.So, can anybody tell me the maximum voltage and amps that the peltier unit can handle?The cooler loooks like this http://www.everythingusb.com/mini_usb_fridge_12625.html
Topic by hafizan89 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hello everyone, I'm Georgios and thank you for your time My goal is to create a mechanism which will be able, using peltier element, to heat a metallic bowl (metallic because of its heat conductivity). In the bowl I will put acetone and I want to evaporate this liquid. Also I want to control the temperature of the bowl. The evaporated acetone will be kept in a closed box. Then, using second peltier element I want to cool the acetone, to liquidity it? Do you know if this is possible? And in general do you think that it is a good idea to use peltier element for heating and cooling, only with electricity, acetone? My goal is also to heat in a fast way. The temperature must be 80 C for evaporation.
Question by GeorgiosG1 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I recently acquired a thermoelectric mini fridge. As a fridge, it doesn't work so very well - it will get down to ~50 degrees with an ambient temperature of 70. So, I took it apart. You know the saying: "If it ain't broke - fix it until it is." So I now have a peltier effect cool/heater. I put my meat thermometer on the cold side with the fan off - and it gets down to freezing (probably a bit below). On the hot side, with a big sink and fan - it seems to be ~85 at it's warmest point (this sink is about half a square foot and an inch deep). Ideas on where to use? It's 110 service.... It literally almost killed me a few days ago when I touched a transistor sink that was part of the rectifier circuit while holding a plate that was grounded (I got knocked out for a few seconds) I've got a couple ideas, I just figured I'd pool brain power and see what happens :p
Topic by trebuchet03 11 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Is there a better way to do this? I was thinking of this , instead of taking your lunchbag to the fridge at work to have the lunch theives scavange it, Have a USB Cooling Lunchbag. I made a prototype but am missing the Peltier unit. Go straight from home to your desk, and keep your lunch cool the whole time instead of a hard cooler. Then unplug it from your usb port and tuck the cables in the pouch, an go. can someone tackle this ?
Topic by yogadude 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I want to connect a couple of computer fans and a peltier cooler to some solar cells, but I want to keep the amount of electronics to a minimum (for the sake of KISS). Assuming the fans and peltier are rated to run at 12V, and I connect the solar cells to provide 12V at peak, will I be able to leave it connected all the time, i.e. when it's night time there is no electricity being provided, maybe in the late morning there is half the electricity, and in the afternoon sun full power? I guess a simpler way to phrase my question is: Can these devices be run with much lower voltage or amperage than they are rated for?
Topic by littleb28 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Question by rbhomes 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi I have a question based upon logics and the function of a peltier-element. we all know, that you can supply power to a peltier-element to raise the temperature on it one side and lowering it on the other. So it increases the differential. Now: If we heat the "cool" side and try to radiate the heat off the hot side (eg cooling it a bit), we can get a small amount of energy off the peltier as electrical current. The current depends on the temperature-differential: The bigger the more. OK so far. Nothing new. But what made me think was the fact, that you have 2 opposite states: Heat Side C and cool side H --> Get energy out in proportion of heat-differential. Put energy in --> Side C gets cooler and side H gets hotter in proportion of energy supplyed. By getting energy OFF the peltier, you in some way, redirect some parts of the heating-energy to the electrical-output. Also that is nothing new and we all know that since energy cannot be generated but only converted (in our case from thermal energy to electrical energy). Now what puzzles me is: Does it actually affect the temperature (-differential) of the peltier, if you get energy off it? Lets imagine the following experiment: - You build something like in https://www.instructables.com/id/Candle-Powered-Electric-Candle/ - Now you disconnect the load (lamp) and measure the temperature on the upper side (Away from the candle). - Wait for a steady-state when the upper side doesn't get hotter - Now turn on the lamp thus redirecting a bit of energy away from the peltier. - measure the temperature again on the upper side. Does it lower the upper temperature a bit? of course it wont be lower than the unheated state. But lets say the steady state was 55°C. Would it be like 50°C if i switch on the lamp?
Topic by Orngrimm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hey guys I hope this is the right place to ask about this but apologies if not! I've got a home made stove fan powered by a TEC/Peltier module, and it worked ok for a long time but was pretty weak so I built a new bigger one to get a better result. This one uses 4x TEC modules (I think the code on them is 12706), with two series pairs connected in parallel (to double the voltage output, AND the current output). So two pairs, with each pair in series for higher voltage, then the two pairs together in parallel. It works, but after a while it slows down & stops. I think the reason is the top half heatsink is getting too hot from the stove where it needs to be kept cool. Problem is that i need these wide heatsinks both top and bottom in order to cover all 4 modules, so I'm not sure quite how to get round this problem? Can anyone give any good suggestions on this please? Many thanks! Jim
Topic by Mr Joshua 5 years ago
I want to have some control over the temperature inside the Orchidium I'm designing and I thought it might be cool :) to use a Peltier Device (device aka module) (Peltier aka TEC or Thermoelectric Cooler). I find I need a lot of help! (Please!) Alright, this isn't a completed Instructable, it's a plea for help, and maybe if the subjects lie in some of your fields of knowledge then we can all enjoy and learn from it. So, the Orchidium I'm designing is an acrylic case 24"W x 18"D x 30"High. It's to grow species orchids indoors in a microclimate, with LED grow lights, proper humidity, air movement and temperature control. (Of course, other critters would like the case, too: poison dart frogs, newts, carniverous plants, etc.. But I'm going to call it the Orchidium.) I've got it all pretty well planned out so that it can be built for a very reasonable price (yes, including the LEDs) and still be aesthetically pleasing and real purdy, too. All planned out EXCEPT FOR THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL. I was looking for some way to cool my case and I stumbled across Peltier devices in eBay. They are CHEAP, costing about $5 or more, depending on the Wattage, etc. The eBay sellers intimated that all you have to do is plug them in and the device gets ice cold. Later, with diligent web-study I learned that actually ONE SIDE of the peltier gets cold, while the other side gets hot. Also, you MUST attach a heat sink and fan to both (?) sides of the peltier. Also, that these devices are not ready to be plugged in; you must attach a DC power supply to them. Oh, another trick that these miraculous devices do is reverse their hot & cold sides when you reverse the polarity of their juice. Ideally, I would like a Peltier device with heatsinks, fans, a thermostat and a DC wall transformer attached... the Peltier/heatsinks/fans would measure about 2" x 2" x 6" and would be mounted in the sidewall of the Orchidium. When the temperature is 65-85F degrees the orchids are happy and the device is Off. But when the thermostat senses the internal temp going over 85F it turns on the Peltier, cold side inside, and so the inside of the case doesn't go up to 90-95F like mine does now; it cools the case a little. Conversely, for someone with chilly orchids or sneezing newts the thermostat would switch the Peltier to hot-side-in to heat the Orchidium a bit. The retail cost for us to buy a Peltier device, 2 heatsinks w/fans and a DC transformer is cheap... roughly $30. The thermostat might be cheap, but I don't know enough about what's needed. If it's too expensive then the Orchidium can do without it. I was hoping I could find an off-the-shelf Orchidium cooler/heater. No such luck. These miraculous Peltier devices are still practically undiscovered -- relatively speaking. People want to use them to cool their computer chips but are hampered by condensation; my orchids welcome condensation. Pathetically, it seems the most common use for Peltiers now is to cool/heat the little boxes on your car seat... they plug into your cigarette lighter and keep your 6-pack cold. Come on! You folks at Instructables can surely help me figure out how to best make an Orchidium cooler with this barely-discovered and poorly-utilized device. I started out a few weeks ago writing to many of the Peltier manufacturers around the world in hopes they might help me in choosing which of their modules I might purchase for my Orchidium. None of them was any help. They wanted to know how many million Orchidiums I planned per year. They told me my basic plan was hopeless or inefficient cost-wise. A Swedish company wanted $800. An American company wanted $500. Some other company wanted $5,000 to $8,000. I wrote back and said I could get a Peltier on eBay for five bucks. The Swedes snottily claimed that their Peltiers were very high quality. No. No way is any svensker Peltier $795 better than ANY other Peltier in the known universe. They both get cold and grow ice crystals on one side. I just need to cool the case A LITTLE BIT, like from 90 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I am not trying to make a refrigerator or freezer. The case (Orchidium) is large, at about 7.5 cubic feet, and there is practically no insulation. Acrylic provides a little insulation, that's all. The temp of the interior of the case is derived from the ambient room temperature of your house... and the lights... which is why I designed it with LEDs. There is a constantly-operating muffin fan inside the case to provide air movement for the plants, but it does not provide any evaporative cooling since it's a closed case. So, first off what size Peltier do you recommend... do you think a 40 Watt would be enough, or what? Next, the placement. I envision the Peltier device mounted vertically through a hole in the side of the case. It might be a plan to mount it in the ceiling, but remember that the LEDs take up most of the ceiling. Next, the heatsinks. I confess I'm not totally clear on this, but I "think" that 2 heatsinks-with-fans may be needed, with one sticking out the outside and the other inside the case. I went ahead and got 2 heatsink/fans from Newegg for supercheap ($1 after rebate), but they aren't really what I want. They're actually shaped to fit some AMD chip. What I think I need is a copper heatsink with a flat bottom a little bigger than the Peltier, and fins... and a heatsink fan attached... and some way to attach it to the Peltier, and through the case to the other heatsink. See? Simple... well it should be but I can find nothing. Next, the power supply. I know it has to be DC, but I don't know which brick to get. I did find a bunch of DC or AC Wall Transformers for sale at alltronics... around $10 or so. All that stuff would be enough... at least to test the cooling power. But if we want to go whole hog then the icing on the cake would be thermostatic control of the Peltier. Well, I throw that out in case one of you is sharp in that field.
Topic by Knuten 11 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have a atx power supply which i have converted to 12 V DC power source, current rated as 22 amps. I have connected a LED light appliance(90W) and a peltier cooler(62.2 W, Umax =15.4 v, Imax = 7 amp,1.7 Ohm resistance ) in parallel connection. But when i attached both of them to the PSU , my LED lights dim. What is the reason for this ?? I have tried with other combination that is peltier cooler and CPU cooler fan and find that the fan is not operating in same rpm when it runs as a sigle device with PSU. Is Peltier cooler make the circuit short??
Question by AdnanN1 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hello, i need help with a project for school due in 3 months. And i need help with a circuit with some odd requests. A variable resistor will change the voltage from 1-18v. From voltages 1-10v will heat up a peltier tile and from voltages 11-18v will change polarity around causing the peltier tile to then cool down but at a faster rate. This all needs to be done without a switch and only with the variable voltage. If 1-18v is not possible 1-12v may be even better. So voltages 1-10v will heat up a peltier tile and from voltages 11-12v will change polarity around causing the peltier tile to then cool down but at a faster rate. And again without a switch and only with the variable voltage. Thanks! -Jon-
Topic by MRCmegarallycar 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
My idea was being energy conscious of some how incorporating thermal heat from the heating system of my house to power LED Lights in the rooms where there is radiators. I need to find a way to incorporate a make shift kit using peltier modules heat from the radiators and a natural way to cool in a bid to reduce the electric during the winter months. Advice is welcomed and opinions also taken onboard as regards to its productivity and if it will be able to do its designed task. Thanks.
Question by AlecW 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I was browsing the site as I am often wont to do, and spent quite some time revisiting old 'ibles covering various solar projects, almost all of which are heat related. I understand from general consensus that PV (photo voltaic) solar systems are very inefficient and one of the worst ways to harvest solar energy (when considering the cost of construction and the energy transfer capacity, etc.) Almost everyone who knows what they are doing suggest that the best (and easiest) way to harvest solar energy is to collect the heat - be it to heat air or water, cook food, or other such purposes.Now, I have recently been fascinated by a discovery relatively new to me, peltier units. These devices, for those who don't know, can work in one of three ways. They can harvest and/or produce either heat, cold, or electricity.Basically, if an electric current is run through a unit, it produces heat on one side and an equal amount of 'cold' on the other. Yes I know you can't produce cold - but for the layman, that is what we call it.Or, if one side is heated while the other side is cooled, the unit produces an amount of electricity from the difference in temperatures. One example I have seen and plan to make use of is in vehicles - if you place one or more of these on your exhaust manifold, or any other location where the engine produces waste heat, and airflow can reach it to cool the other side, you generate electricity from the waste heat energy that would otherwise just be . . . well, wasted.But it occurred to me today, if you had a unit attached in the middle of a solar collector, focusing sunlight on one side of the peltier unit, and isolate the other side of the unit in some cooling medium (perhaps even just air with a heat sink of some sort - more likely a cooling liquid though), how effective would this be at harvesting solar energy (heat) into electricity?Actually, I have been using the more common name of peltier, but I believe that for this application a seebeck unit (which is nearly the same, but different) would be required. As I understand it, Peltier units are used more as coolers and are almost always constructed with Bismuth Telluride (Bi2Te3) and used around room temperature and below; while Seebeck units are good for power generators are often constructed of PbTe or, SiGe as well as Bi2Te3 and are used at much higher temperatures.From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect :The effect is that a voltage, the thermoelectric EMF, is created in the presence of a temperature difference between two different metals or semiconductors. This causes a continuous current to flow in the conductors if they form a complete loop. The voltage created is of the order of several microvolts per degree difference.((more info can be found at the referenced wiki page on formulae etc.))Just curious on if this would ever be a decent way to harvest solar energy into electricity. I have also thought up using a thermal siphon solar heating system in which the liquid flows past one or more water wheels which power a small (and obviously slow) generator - but at that point I believe it would be so inefficient and limited in use as to just have absolutely no practical application. The peltier unit (used as a seebeck unit) would probably do better, but I am not certain, which is why I post the question.
Topic by karossii 11 years ago | last reply 10 months ago
If you got to the ible on making a usb fridge https://www.instructables.com/id/5-Mini-USB-Fridge!/ it tells you to find an old camping fridge and take out the peltier/heatsink unit, can you use that unit to place on a CPU of a computer or laptop to cool it down?
Question by jibatsu 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I wanted to make a pulse jet and use peltiers to generate electricity to create hydrogen that will be added to the pulse jet. That or i'd run water around the metal of the pulse jet to cool it down and produce steam that could drive a turbine. Give me suggestions and any flaws in my idea. Thanks
Question by Aron313 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I need a dehumidifier system. I am thinking of using peltier heat pump as it consist of a cooled surface..it can catch moisture from the air cuming to it and convert it into water... is that possible or anybody done this before.. anybody having any idea about it please tell...!
Topic by samrac 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Http://home.howstuffworks.com/refrigerator6.htm Using the Peltier effect via an aluminum plate, would it be possible to create a homemade cryolipolysis machine? The method cryolipolysis uses to kill fat cells is this: The vacuum pulls the adipose tissue away from the body's core along with the surrounding skin folds to prevent the tissue from being warmed by body temperature. The temperature of the fat cells drops to between -1 degree Celsius and -10 degrees Celsius, triggering pre-programmed cell death. After one hour of application all of the susceptible cells in the area have been triggered and will die off between two weeks and 3 months later. I don't want to use something as inaccurate as ice packs, I would like to buy an aluminum plate, attach wiring to one side to utilize the Peltier effect, apply a light vacuum to keep contact, and insert some kind of temperature control per Peltier junction to keep the temperature in the optimum zone. As far as the back of the connections that gets hot, cooling that with circulated anti-freeze or water should be sufficient, but I'm not sure of the best configuration on the plate/vacuum setup. The way the current Zeltiq technology pulls the skin so far away from the body leads me to believe it's not great for any area that doesn't have a lot of excess skin to pull on and I would like to create a shallower cavity that can fit in harder to reach places like the side of the chest under the arm.
Question by DIY_Novice 6 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I'm thinking of placing one or two peltier cooler units on the side of a large aluminum container, which is filled with water. the peltier units also have heatsinks with fans on them. the fans blow the cold air on the user, while the heat is transferred into the aluminum and thus into the water. the aluminum box would be insulated to keep it from heating up the surrounding air, and the heated water could be dumped and refilled to dispose of the heat. this would allow for a sort of personal cooler without expelling hot air out the other side.
Question by codongolev 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago
I'm working on a project with peltier coolers. I want to get it as cold as I can. What would be my optimum power source? Amps over volts? If it helps I am planning to hardwire the device. and I'll have plenty of room for mounting fans on the hot sides heatsink Here are the specs 50mm x 50mm x 3.64mm 245 - 320 Watts of cooling power Operates from 0-15 volts DC and 0-26 amps Operates from -60 deg C to +180 deg C Thanks
Topic by curve12 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Hey guys. I'm planning to make this for my science project and I was wondering if anyone can explain some parts... https://www.instructables.com/id/5-Mini-USB-Fridge!/?skipPro=true 1.) where can I buy a cheap peltier cooling unit? or the 12V camper cooler (coz I really can't get how you stick that to the unit... explain please? sorry. I'm such a rookie...) 2.) how to make the fridge light up when you open it? (which is better lights when closed doors or lights when you open the door? please explain how to do this too) 3.) can this fridge be cool enough that the can (or bottle) be cold enough to drink lets say if you place a room temperature can inside? and can it be cool enough in less than 5 hours? (I read your comments to get insights and some of you said you have to wait for 5hours for it to cool?) 4.) can anyone help me how to make the room temperature can COLD rather than just keeping it cool? ~~Please help guys.... Thanks in advance! ~~ P.S. I'm only a senior in highschool so I'm really tight on budget.....
Question by not_all_that 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I guess I don't understand how amp ratings work. I want to use a 12v 5a power supply for a peltier plate. I am using a 2" cpu heatsink with a small fan attached to cool it properly. I tried it with a 9v battery and it worked but I want to use an AC to DC wall psu. The fan is 12v 0.12a. Do you add the amps together (5.12a) for the total? If so, does that mean a 5a psu is not enough? I don't want it to be too low and draw too many amps and damage something.
Question by Arya42 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
It would be awesome if it could fit on my shelf and freeze up to -50Â°C (-58Â°F) maybe even lower, if possible. I want do deepfreeze some vacuum packed spices. I know it's overkill and I do not really care. (Oh actually, I do...) Would some big Peltier Elements suffice? I guess they would not be very efficient, and this would be a definite plus? Maybe if heat is transported away from the element with a standard CPU water cooling system? I'm afraigt they're not up to the task. Even getting a portable fridge cool takes ages... What about modifying a 'normal' small freezer? One could maybe just control the pump with another kind of controller, ie an arduino with a PT1000 and a relais... I read though that one might need another cooling agent capable of even lower temperatures then those used in commercial grade freezers? Any links to tutorials, builds or products would be deeply appreciated.
Question by Maniacy 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I was thinking of a heat exchanger, on one end a constant stream of cold well water, on the other end, the fridge coils. Or maybe use solar to cool it with peltier effect device? To keep it from coming on too often. Throw out any ideas, just though of this but have not seen it around, probably for a reason. It would be nice to use this idea at a cottage or camp eventually with little to no power, but at a cost worth building. The point would be to save money over the long run, so like a full blown solar would work, but it would cost a lot. Thanks again
Question by newinvestor23 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I work in an aluminum casting facility and we're looking for ways to save energy etc... one thing that we've got no shortage of is heat (during the summer the temp near the ceiling above the furnaces is over 230F) i've looked into stuff like they do in steel mills in Germany where they run pipes through the furnace linings and then use the heat from the furnace to make steam and run steam generators. but i was thinking of something else today. would you be able to just mount a bunch (or one huge) peltier exchanger (or whatever they're called) on the ceiling above the furnaces and use that to make electricity? i'm aware that they create electricity because of temperature differences (and not specifically from being hot or cold in general) so would we have to cool one side of the unit for maximum efficiency? are there any other ways that anyone knows of to turn waste heat directly or indirectly into electricity?
Topic by crapflinger 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago