Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
Hi everyone, i got this idea while fishing, and couldn't open my pliers with one hand(i was holding a kinda big pike in the other one). what if you could just flip it open like a butterfly knife? but i dont know how i could loosen those rivets.... so that's why i need some help. Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/9JxPi
Question by rallekralle | last reply
From the bottom of my toolbox I have dug out a pen knife I bought some time ago. Its a silverline micro multi tool. I never used it because although the pliers work very well the folding knives, bottle openers etc. aren't held in place by a spring or locking mechanism. Also the rotation is far too easy, and the rotation stop sometimes slips, rendering the knives, bottle openers and everything else effectively useless (i.e. very dangerous to use). As a result I will remove the assorted knives, bottle openers and other widgets, leaving an interesting space to be filled by something else. That something else cannot really be another set of metal widgets (like knives, bottle openers, etc) because they would have the same basic problems, so my question is what would you use the two spaces for? Approximate dimensions; 9x8x55 mm internal dimensions, (one in each handle) box shaped enclosure open on one side. Openings are on opposing sides of the folding handles (see the google images link to see what I mean). Two holes near the ends of the handles which currently hold the widget axle. One idea to get the ball rolling, a mini multimeter in one side, with probes in the other. I'm looking for something practical or useful, something that could be still considered a tool of some kind, but feel free to throw in any idea's you have anyhow.
Question by andy | last reply
I have been lent a pair of unusual pliers, and have found them to be incredibly useful for working with wire chains. I would like to buy a pair, but can not find anything that resembles them, so does anyone have any idea as to what these are called? Many thanks in advance!
Topic by ChrisM590 | last reply
I have been lent an unusual type of pliers, which I have found to be very handy to work with wire chains, but I would like to buy myself a pair, but have no idea what to search for. If anyone has any ideas to what these are called that would be brilliant!
Question by ChrisM590 | last reply
BTW: I'm a kid, so I don't really have that many tools. So, if it's not much to ask, try to think of a project that doesn't have to use so much tools please?
Question by vpiev | last reply
Borrowed them from a friend and the instrutions are lost, any tips?
Question by maymers23 | last reply
I've been using these as ring expanding pliers, and need more. But when I search for them under that name, no luck, so guessing I'm using the wrong name?
Question by CapnHowdy | last reply
I was thinking of getting a multitool that is small enough to fit on your key chain. Here comes the dilemma though... I don't know what tool to get. Leatherman has the squirt and the Micra. Other companies have ones as well... I was thinking of getting the squirt, but if I do, I cant decide if I want the P4 (pliers) or the E4 (wire cutters). Ahhh I cant make up my mind. Any help? The thing about the pliers and wire cutters is I don't have a set of wire cutters. However, pliers would probably be used more often. But if I need the wire cutters, I would wish that I had got them instead. Right now I am leaning towards the pliers, but...
Topic by its a lion | last reply
Hello, I recently bought an adaptor for my Canon 600d ( rebel 3 ? ) to allow M42 lenses to fit to it. That was fine but the adaptor is stuck on the camera. It is not cross threaded. I have tried using slip-jawed pliers really hard, but not as hard as I could because I was afraid of damaging something. There is a small hole in the front of the adaptor if I press that and turn it , the adaptor separates, so I stopped that method. Any advice ? If not , I'll just go with the pliers as hard as I can. Thanks
Question by FriendOfHumanity | last reply
Well, got an old Dell Inspiron 8600 and if you've read any of my other questions you know all about it and its problems. Anyway... the cover for the point stick (mouse thing in the center of the keyboard) needs to be replaced, but this being my first laptop, I'm not quite sure how to do it. Personally I just want to pull it off with a some pliers and jam a new one on, but I don't want to break it either.... so I'm exercising alittle caution by asking first.... is there a specific way to do it, or is my way just about right? Thanks
Question by transistorguy | last reply
I am trying to find a nice multi-tool that include the following features and not too expensive (less $100). EDIT: I meant less than $100. Pliers Wire Cutter Saw File 3" Knife (non-serrated) Scissors Can Opener Bottle Opener 2-3 Flat Screwdrivers (Large, Medium, Small) Phillips Screwdriver I like the look of the SOG PowerLock S60 ($50) with a replaced blade ($8) (1/2 serrated to straight) because of the geared pliers, the replaceable/interchangeable parts, the 1/4" drive and all the tools I want. Can anyone recommend tools that would fit for me?
Topic by DELETED_bertwert | last reply
Can anyone tell me what this tool is for? I came across it all rusted and thought it was some type of pliers or cutter. After I cleaned it up I could tell it was probably neither. What I thought was a plier jaw is actually one piece and does not close and what i thought maybe the cutting blade, actually had lines and numbers, like a ruler. The one small screw that the spring is attached to, will allow you to adjust how far the jaw/cutter will close and the other screw, when loosened a bit allows you to slide the little metal 'arm' in or out, like a measuring template. It has some fancy designs on the handles as you can see and the only marking says "Made in Western Germany".
Question by millsy22 | last reply
Just wondering what you guys are getting for christmas. is there any new cool tools out? cheap? i am getting the dremel stylus, by the way is it good? i am also getting a tool box kit. (soldering iron, pliers, etc)
Topic by DELETED_DELETED_kruser495 | last reply
What was in water something like crayfish but without pliers and tail and smaller, going on bottom of my swamp.........it looks strange with its legs!! i am scared HELP!!! I am scared!!!
Question by h0meIandsecurity | last reply
Hey guys, this is my first Forum topic. Now today I would like to ask y'all how do you cut your pieces? I mean, I've been trying from ages and I can not get a smooth edged cut piece. Now I have used a hacksaw as well as a plier both of which have failed to produce a smooth edge. The results can be seen below. Also I do not have any sandpaper and neither do I have any shops near my house which supply it! Can I ask you all how you cut your pieces? Answer fast. Best answer gets a cookie! Lol.
Topic by DELETED_akshat21045 | last reply
This can include things like soldering irons, pliers, saw, etc. Please include what it is and who makes it. I would like to more into making electronic related thing and would like to know what other people like to use.
Question by cooldude01 | last reply
I have this good gun, which I wanted a better trigger on after many mods. It is an extremely sturdy gun, and had to break the old one literally, to get it out. So i have tried pliers, and hammers, along with my own hands, without sucsess to get it in.Help....
Question by Speedmite | last reply
Double Capacity USB Charger Treadmill Desk Sand Fire Garden DIY USB Oscilloscope Riveted Maille DIY Lockring Pliers Rustic Hammock Chair Stylish Sofa Bed Drilling Glass Guides Instructables Robot Projects Exercise Lamps Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Hi I have these Straightwire Rhapsody S RCA interconnects . They have a threaded sleeve over the RCA plugs. Mine are totally jammed !!! and any attempt to turn them is loosening the RCA plug on the AMP itself !!! the RCA plug is supposedly Gold - meaning gold plated copper mostly the sleeve is nickel looking I tried pliers ! no avail ! Help!!! thanks NEO
Topic by neo.aureus | last reply
I have a list of the basic tools I will need for this. If you can add anything that would be great. 1.LEDs 2.Wire 3.Duck Tape 4.Soldering Station 5.Persision Screwdriver 6.Razor Knife 7.O-Rings 8.Springs 9.Batterys 10.Needle Nose Pliers 11.Clamps 12.Screwdriver Any other suggestions would be great. Thanks.
Topic by amature engineer | last reply
I was wounder is anyone could help me pick a multi-tool ether from Leatherman or Gerber, I really don't like swiss army. If it could be around $30 have the some of the following: Knife, pliers or scissors, assorted screwdrivers, file, lanyard, bottle opener, awl and tweezers. It doesn't need to have all thoughts things but some. I am currently thinking about a leatherman Squirt P4 or S4. I have had the Gerber clutch but the pliers broke off and it was really worn out so I thought to get something new. Right now I have the Swiss+tech utili-key on my key chain right now and its basically a knife/saw, bottle opener with a tiny screwdriver on it. I know your going to say to win one but it would be easier just to buy one. Any opinions and review about what you have would be great. Also it needs to fit comfortably in my pocket, it will be going everywhere with me including school so the blade has to be less then 2.5 inches and can not lock.
Topic by acer73 | last reply
This is my invention for the day. Use of magnetic tool holders is a very old, but handy way to organize tools. My contribution to Magnetic Tool Holders is to use small, strong magnets (12 mm diameter) attached to a metal bar or in the photo, to my card table edge. That in itself is still not very significant. However HOW the tools are hung from the magnets is significant. The problem: If I put the magnets vertically and hang the tools vertically, the surface area of the magnet is such that often the attraction between the tool and the magnet causes the magnet to stay with the tool instead of with the table. A magnet sticking to the tool, can be very annoying. The solution: Placing the magnets horizontally--at the bottom--AND hanging the tools by their tips allows for very easy detachment and attachment. The magnetic force is strong enough to hold some very heavy tools, like the pliers or long nose pliers without any difficulty. The tools are easily removed and easily replaced. This would also apply to any magnetic strip. The key thought of the day: Hang tools from magnetic tool holders by their tips. Of course, another solution is to glue the magnets to the supporting bar--wood or metal--and clamp the supporting bar to the table. That works as well, but is more permanent and is a little more work. Also, if the magnets are allowed to attach by their full surface area to the tools, the tools are hard to remove.
Topic by stannickel | last reply
The first is a harpoon looking instrument that has retracting prongs it is quite heavy and have been told that was used for stabbing hay bales but not sure , The second is a plier looking thing and not even sure what ????? They both were found on my past uncles farm where he lived for many decades and i now live and have been finding all kind of stuff that has been quite interesting Jerry I have been trying to upload a few pics but not working will continue to try
Question by rockclimberfj40 | last reply
I have a VERY short piece of 32 gauge nichrome wire that I want to connect to 2 copper wires. When testing, I have connected them like on the picture, using tweezers and a pair of pliers. But I really need to find a more professional and durable way of doing it. It's important to keep as much as "free" nichrome wire as possible in the middle. I don't want to waste all the length inside a butt crimp, or wrapped around the copper wire. Is there a tiny, minitature terminal somewhere, that only steals 1-2 mm of the nichrome wire? Or am I wishing for something impossible?
Question by karolina81 | last reply
I just got a dremel on Monday. I've been testing it out with the different bits I got with it. I just used the No. 107 engraver bit to practice engraving on some scrap wood. I used the right collet (3/32) and didn't tighten it too hard. I have a dremel 4000. I wanted to use the multipurpose cutter bit so I unscrewed the the collet nut and expected to be able to slip the bit out, but I couldn't . I couldn't even get it out with pliers. PLEASE HELP ME!
Question by Cobalt59 | last reply
I wanted to make some shelves like this http://www.wedowood.dk/shoerack/ but I have no idea which metal they used or how to bend it. Is there anything strong enough to support even some books that can be bent with pliers? If so, wouldn't it be really hard to get anything good looking? If not, how to bend? I know there are shop brakes, but aren't they only for sheet metal? And, surely you cannot make a 180 turn that small with a shop brake? Also, what gauge/material rodstock to use? Is there some way (even approximate) to relate gauge and material to weight supported? Many thanks in advance Joe
Topic by JosephS164 | last reply
I'm interested in starting to buy some tools to keep around for any things I may want to attempt to build. There are just so many different kinds of tools out there..and they are expensive. So before buying anything I'd like to know your top ten tools that you couldn't live without (excluding the really basic tools like screwdriver, hammer, pliers, wrench etc.)Also please share your experience with different brand name tools. Which brands would you reccomend, and which would you stay away from?
Topic by nightmaresyndrome | last reply
On my Honda SL 125 engine on the lower part in the corner, there is this one screw that is preventing me from pulling the whole thing apart. It's driving me crazy. The problem is that it is stripped and nothing I try works to get it out. I also sort of flattened out the lower half of the screw, so that I could try and grab the upper half with some pliers, but that only messed it up further. I've attached a couple of images of the screw if that helps.I read today that gluing a screw driver to the screw with super glue might work, but I wouldn't have thought it would. Any suggestions?
Question by Simon_Carter | last reply
I just worked on a Husqvarna 142 chainsaw for a friend. Yes, there are openings in the side of the machine so the Low and High carburetor screws can be adjusted, but a special tool is required, or parts need to be removed from the saw so the screw shanks can be grasped with a pair of needle nose pliers. A special tool is svailable for about $6 US. It fits over the longitudinal ridges on the upper part of the screw shank. I discovered the right size of semi-rigid plastic tubing makes an effective adjustment tool. Just cut a length three or four inches long. Push one end onto the desired screw shank and turn to adjust. The tubing is rigid enough that it does not twist, but turns the screw needing adjustment.
Topic by Phil B | last reply
I assume this applies to all tools. So, I have a burned out grinder motor (wires). The spining axle 'thing' looks fine. Can't I just re-wound those wires on outer ring of the motor and reconnenct it (good as new?) also I may have scraped (with pliers) the replacement/wounded copper wire when bending it away from center . Will I need to rewind it with another set of wire....have I ruin it given there's some sort of non-conductive coating on the copper wire which I scratched off. I would appreciate any specific advice on reconnecting the power source wires to the wire/magnetic field area as well. Or should I just spend $200 on a new one :)
Question by jimboa2020red | last reply
Hey all, I had an idea I wanted to try. As you may know, recycling tires for projects isn't nearly as cool as it sounds. Since most street tires are steel-belted, about the only part you can even use is the sidewalls. :P My idea for getting the (much cooler) tread part off was to use an inductive heater to heat just the steel belting inside, then (hopefully) just yank the tread layer off with a ginormous pair of pliers. The problem is that actual inductive ranges are a $100+ for even a single burner unit. Couple that with the very real possibility that my little experiment could damage it beyond repair... not exactly a recipe for success. So now my question: Does anybody have a schematic, instructions, and/or (please, please) instructible for how to build my own inductive heater? Thanks in advance, -me
Topic by PS118 | last reply
I bought an assortment of components: resistors, diodes, capacitors, all mixed together on about a meter of cut tape from a reel for an automatic PCB populating machine. The original reel was marked as surplus from DEC and looks to be about 20 years old. One of the components is this black cylinder, like a very fat resistor, about 5 mm long and 3mm diameter. No resistance or diode action. Brittle and crack off with a pliers like ferrite. They do not melt or burn with a candle flame. The wire lead goes straight through and out the other side. Can be picked up by a magnet, but are not themselves magnets. They have no markings of any kind, but have shiny flecks. Are they some kind of magnetic tape position marker to tell the insertion machine what component is next? Say like a binary code?
Question by iectyx3c | last reply
I have now already two of these huge ball valves we have on a machine at work.Soon I will have one or two more...The replacements always cost well in excess of $500, just for the part, excluding labour.If I am correct than even these big guys can be dismantled like their small cousins.Screw the screwed side open, remove the turning mechanism and them push the actual valve out.Please correct me if that might be different!The actual problem with ours is that after a few years of 24/7 use they start to leak through - not out in anyway.A visual inspection without taking them apart show build up on the ball part.No scratch marks or other damages that I can see.Where there is no build up it is shiny like a mirror.The seal are blue and clearly show the same abuse as the ball.I tried with some aluminium poking tool I made up and the debris is really hard and baked on onto these seal rings.My assumption is that only the seals started to fail.And as they are consumables I am starting to wonder if it is worth trying to find replacements and to clean up the valve after taking it apart.With only a manufacturer (from the machine, not the valve) part number but no markings or anthing on the valve itself I struggle to find any online place to check for genuine rebuild kits :(Any links for sites with lots of balls valves pictures (to be motorised) so I might one that looks identical?Last but not least: How to unscrew the damn thing?? LOLI tried in a vice with the largest set of plumbing pliers I could boorow but it won't budge at all.Would need an about 48mm spanner to grab the "nut" part of the valve.The pliers are almost a meter long but even swearing like the worst guy in town did not help to make anything move.Before cutting a custom made spanner from some re-inforcing steel plates: Is there any proper way of unscrewing a big ball valve?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I was just going for a walk, and what do I see? One of those heaters, as shown in the picture. I immediately saw (pun and hint not intended) the switches, and was anxious to get them home. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove the connectors by hand, and didn't have and pliers or wire cutters. I was 25 meters - less than 5 minutes away from home, and way too lazy to go back and bring some tools. What do I do? Look at the net/grill/cover/protector thing and immediately think that it's sharp and cut through the wires easily, DUH! Not sure where I got the idea, but I thought that the side, where all of the smaller rods are welded onto the main one, would be pretty sharp. On a second thought, it might not have actually sawed through, but might have ripped through the wires, strand by strand, since it was soft copper. Just thought I'd b̶r̶a̶g̶ share :)
Topic by Yonatan24 | last reply
Okay I have this problem with a screw being stuck. It's a small screw size, like maybe #10, but can't tell. It's stuck in 3/4 inch mdf, and it goes through the mdf. I've tried everything to get it out. Pliers don't work, and I absolutely CAN NOT drill out a larger hole. I tried super gluing a nut to it (yes, I know, stupid idea) didn't work. Only other idea I have is possibly welding a nut onto it, but I have no access to any kind of welder. I can get a butane torch with interchangeable 'soldering' tips, but I think I could possibly do a cheap tack weld that way if it gets hot enough. Other than that, does anyone have any ideas on what I can do? I'd like to preserve the threads as I will be using the same hole.
Question by xander.zoolander | last reply
Hello, I have been doing some repair work on an iPod Touch 3G. One repair I'm having to perform is the power button which is totally unresponsive. This required removing some very soft tiny screws at the bottom of the device. Unfortunately, one didn't survive the screwdriver and quickly chewed up, which means I've had to drill it using a drill bit, which took a surprising amount of effort. The problem now I have is extracting the final stem which is still screwed in. The stem isn't flush with the metal but it's not far off, making it hard to grab using pliers. I'm looking for some suggestions how to remove it. I've read that cutting a thin screwdriver in half and gluing it using super glue is a way. Another way seems to buying an extraction set but the only one I can find in the area looks far too big (despite having a precision piece). Thoughts? All suggestions welcome.
Topic by skezza | last reply
I have a few secret upcoming projects in which I plan on using carbide turning inserts. Both for woodworking and metalworking projects, but not machining - their intended use.I was wondering if anyone has any experience using these. I was looking at buying square inserts, but I can find only shims like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292307002360 . Do you know if these are even slightly sharp? I mean, can I scrape wood with them with my hand, not in a milling cutter? Will they cut wood?If not, I was thinking about getting something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173054401114 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/391346000853How sharp actually are these actual carbide inserts? Will these be able to scrape hardwood if I for example, hold them with pliers and scrap them across wood?Thanks!
Question by Yonatan24 | last reply
I have several pair of very dull cuticle nippers and hair cutting scissors that could use a fresh edge on them. These are small sharp "plier type" instruments the manicurist uses to remove the excess cuticle from around the nail beds of your fingers and toes. The 2 pieces do not come apart so I need to sharpen them with the jaws wide open, and the use of a very small sharpening instrument. If anyone has a system that works with the use of hand files or a rotary tool I would like to know how this is done. I don't have a lot of space to work in so I'm limited to the simpler methods. I've tried a whet stone, that was a disaster, I'd be willing to try this again, as long as I know what I'm doing so I don't make them worse than they were when I started. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated and welcome. Thanks for helping out.
Question by Izziedoesit | last reply
Hello again. A little background on the NIF (Nominating Instructables to be Featured) Group, it is a group where people can nominate their favorite instructables to be featured in the group profile page. Click here to visit the group. New members are always welcome. This time there is a lot of exciting news to report: Newly joined members!! Thank you for participating. I can't wait to see your nominations! Locket Rocket The Ideanator Goodhart Hiyadudez Also there are newly nominated instructables. Drumroll please! Living Tealight holder made from hard drive parts by ChrysN Personalized Cards by gergi11 Technology Making a brass pocket flask by Vidar_76 (nominated by The_Ideanator) How to Make Your Own Screen Protector (for less than a nickel!) by jen7714 Put images inside QR codes by killerjackalope Workshop Sugru Soft-Jaw Pliers by mattthegamer463 (nominated by The_Ideanator) Some more news: Instructables such as Cinnamon and Sugar Apples by miso_soup, DIY Calligraphy by mhudnall, and How to Make Your Own Screen Protector (for less than a nickel!) by jen7714 got featured by a feature team member. That means that they were actually featured on the homepage. Congratulations! (A note: I forgot to add this to the groups forum topic post. Is there any way I can add it now?)
Topic by SkysTheLimit | last reply
I have figured out something useful without making the firefly ugly. First, take out all of the screws, and start mapping them by the nerf's shape. Sorry I have no pics, but I want this to not take three days. Take out the pieces that support the barrel. Draw a map if you have to, because this can get very annoying to put back. take out the barrel with the supporting orange piece and throw away the orange front piece. This may reduce slight accuracy, but you can now use sonic micro darts, and you need to to do my 3rd to next mod. Unscrew the back of the barrel. take out the piece. Unscrew the 3 screws on the back, too. Make sure to keep mapping. Unsrew the last front screws. Get small pliers or a large screwdriver and pry it open, going all around. Take out the springs and the 3-pronged pieces. Put the barrel back together. Take out the air pump and stretch the spring. Put back the gun, using your mapping. Now, for the fun part. Drill a hole through the center of the barrel, big enough for your flashlight. You are done. Have fun.
Topic by Fenderpony | last reply
I picked up this old and weather worn but nice bench at Goodwill. Made of REAL materials, metal and wood. No plastic! The first link below shows the whole bench. The slats are deteriorated and if I can't rehab them I will look for a hardwood pallet to repurpose. The problem I'm facing is that the 1/4" steel bolts attaching the slats have rusted. I will replace these with stainless steel bolts, but I first need to remove the rusted bolts, without damaging the frame or further damaging the wood. The other two links show the two sides of the bolts. I think these are beyond loosening with WD-40. The best I can think of is to grasp the back end of the bolt with a locking plier and drill through the head with a 1/4" bit. If you know of a better method, I'd like to hear. Another question is, once I have this bench rehabed, it will be sitting where it gets exposure to the sun for most of the day. What is the best clear coating that I can apply to preserve the wood under this circumstance? Bench http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/Bench-1.jpg Screw (front) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchS.jpg Nut (back) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchN.jpg
Question by LesB | last reply
My GE microwave (JE1860SB 002) made a cracking sound and stopped working. After some research, I removed the cover and checked the fuse and it was good. I then checked the thermal flame/sensor and discovered it was burned out. I replaced the thermal flame/sensor and now the unit comes on but makes a loud humming sound and has a burnt smell. The next step (according to my research) is checking the diode (cable) which is attached to the capacitor. It appears I need to discharge the capacitor before proceeding? --- BEFORE replacing the sensor, the unit had been unplugged for over one week….AFTER replacing the sensor, the unit was plugged in for about 5 minutes on Jan 25, 2018.- What is the best/safest way to discharge the capacitor? Is an insulated screw driver or pliers needed or will a rubber handle tool work considering the time it has been unplugged? (Capacitor pictured below) - Should I remove the two connecting wires and diode before attempting to discharge the capacitor? - If the diode is bad should I still check the Magnetron? - If the diode is good, what is the next item to check/test?
Topic by BayouDude | last reply
Https://www.instructables.com/answers/What-essential-tools-should-I-include-in-my-dorm-r/The longest comment on this site is one by Guardian Fox on the "What survival tools should I keep in my dorm room tool box?" If anyone can find a longer one, please PM me the link.Keep in mind, he typed this with his own fingers, not by holding down the paste command for a day. If that's what you want, then go to https://www.instructables.com/community/the_forum_for_spam/ Source: Guardian FoxFor the dorm room, you only need a few tools. You're not going to be renovating, and you're not going to be doing much woodworking. You aren't allowed to do anything at all to the room beyond hanging pictures (if that), and most dorms forbid power-tools in the rooms no matter what you're use them for. Here's my take on what you'll need for the dorm. I've included a lot of things that seem unnecessary, and you can probably live without some of it... but the kit will get you through nearly any problems you'll encounter at school or in an apartment:-At least one decent multi-bit screwdriver. Look for something with a comfortable grip and sturdy construction. Avoid gimmicks like built in flashlights. I recommend the Piquiq brand which comes in a few different sizes and can be found in many hardware stores in North America. You can usually get their three-piece set for less than $20.-A set of jeweler's screwdrivers. Get a cheap set because these little things WILL get lost. Look for something with at least a few unusual bits as well as the usuals. Get a 30ish-piece set for less than $20. Most handy if you've got a thing for messing with your electronics, but also great for changing a watch battery, fixing glasses, etc.-A basic hammer. Nothing fancy needed here, and I've always preferred an ordinary wooden-handled hammer anyway. Go for a smaller hammer if you only plan on hanging pictures, get a regular-sized hammer if you plan on using it to do real work later on. Stanley is a good brand with decent prices, but there are lots of good budget-priced hammers out there. Drop by a hardware store and pick one that feels good in your hand. Less than $20 for a brand name. $10 or less for a bargain hammer. Make sure the head of the hammer is securely attached to the handle, no matter what brand you pick but a little tiny wiggle is ok. Hang a picture or tap a few finishing nails into a small project. Very handy, even when you use it wrong.-Two utility knives with snap-off blades. One with the small size, and the other with the larger size. There are hundreds of brands of these on the market, and a lot of them are junk so spring for an Olfa (the best i.m.o.) if you can find it. Richard is a decent low-cost brand which is often found in paint stores. Again, avoid gimmicks. The most important thing you need to know is if the locking mechanism works well or not, as a utility knife can become dangerous if the blade is going to slide around while you're using it. Good knives can be around $10-20 each. Cheap, "disposable" knives can be found for less than a dollar, but be sure to buy something that seems sturdy. Add a self-healing cutting mat from the dollar store, and while you're there get a metal ruler for cutting straight lines. Smaller utility knives are good for light-duty applications like trimming photographs or opening packages. Larger utility knives are good for harder work like cutting lots of cardboard-A measuring tape. You probably already have a ruler for school, but a measuring tape is much more useful for around the house. Get a 16' tape for good versatility. Choose one that has a sturdy housing and a tape that slides in and out easily. Bennett is a good budget brand you can find for less than $10 and I recommend theirs over any of the name-brand tapes out there. If you can't find that brand, go to the building supplies store and ask what brand the clerks and outside staff use around the shop. You could skip this one during college, but you'll need it one day and it's the kind of thing you can make uses for.-Pliers. For around the house and crafting I find a pair of long-nose pliers more handy than a pair of linesman's pliers, but both tools have their place. Locking pliers (aka vice grips) are also super-handy. Get one or a set, but avoid the bargain brands. Look to spend at least $7 each for basic pliers, and at least $12 for a good pair of locking pliers. -An adjustable wrench (aka thumb-wrench). Pick a smaller-sized model for your toolbox. Most of the nuts and bolts in the house will be small anyway. Go for something that opens up to 1" or 1 1/2" Brand isn't an issue, but make sure it operates smoothly and won't jam or work loose. Spend less than $10. -Scissors. A usable, general purpose pair of scissors can be found at the dollar stores or in an office supply store. Make sure they open and close smoothly and that the blades don't wiggle. Look for one with a metal screw at the pivot so you can tighten it if it works loose. If you're using it routinely for cutting fabric or any other specific task, spend some extra money and get the right kind for the job or at least a good pair of general purpose ones. Less than $5 for cheap ones, $20+ for quality ones.-Sewing notions; A pack of needles, a roll of white thread, a roll of black thread, and a roll of transparent thread, a few safety pins and any spare buttons you find. That should get you through any wardrobe fixes you may need. Each item in the kit should be a dollar or less, and you can save money by starting with a pre-made kit from a dollar store and adding a few of your own extras. Also highly recommended is this, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1352 , but keep in mind it is cheap for a reason and needs constant attention.-A soldering iron if it's allowed in your room, and only if you're working with or fixing electronics or jewelry. Get a scrap piece of plywood or something to use as a work surface. $15 for a basic 30w iron. Another $10 for a safer stand.-A toolbox that holds everything. I like the ones that double as a step-stool, which you can find for $20-$30 if you look hard enough (mastercraft and rubbermaid brands). You might like something different, but small plastic toolboxes and even small plain steel ones are all quite cheap so go look and see what you like. You can even use your imagination and just use a plastic tote, a tacklebox, a backpack/messenger bag, shoebox, etc. Just pack your tools in it neatly and avoid putting the heavy or sharp ones on top of the ones that might break.-A plunger. If your dorm room has a bathroom, this is a must even if you never have to use it. It's an insurance policy against one hell of a mess. $10-$15.Anyway, that's all I can think of for tools. Craftier folks need more gear, and less DIY-prone folks need less. Use your best judgment and buy only what you can afford and might actually use. Pick up a few fasteners and adhesives too, usually as needed. Here's what you should probably keep on hand.-A package of assorted picture-hangers and hooks (if hanging pictures is allowed in your dorm). Buy a pack at the dollar store. A few extra finishing nails and small screws would be a good addition to this as well.-Thumbtacks. Buy a pack at the dollar store or office supply store.-Scotch tape, packing tape, duct tape (or Gorilla tape).-Twist ties. Get a bunch from a pack of trash bags.-A package of superglue. Rather than one large tube, get the pack with several tiny tubes so you don't lose your entire supply when one dries up.-Craft wire. Use it wherever you might use a twist tie, but also can be bent into whatever shape you need to become a tool or a piece of art. Dollar stores carry rolls of it often at 2/$1
Topic by DELETED_M4industries | last reply
Hi. I've recently started making small electronic projects, first starting with a pack I bought from an electronics store that pretty much comes with all I need (resistors, transistors, springs, wires, batteries etc) it's fairly amateurish and for a beginner. But I have some more involved things i would like to start.. and a few little things lying around I would like to play with, take apart and salvage for working parts etc.. So I am at the stage now of wanting/needing tools for jobs. I was wondering if anyone could provide me with a list of things I would need? The electronics repair kits I have found on the internet usually cover computer repair/electronic repair tools for around $80 including screwdrivers, pliers, alligator clips, torch, and soldering iron kit etc... and I have considered buying an all in one kit liked his but if I was too just buy a few things at a time what would be the things I should get first? I'm hoping to over time build up a large collection of quality tools for future long term list so I don't really want anything cheap. And safety is definitely a factor. If anyone had any idea's or could help that would be great, Thanks. Vulnic
Topic by Vulnic | last reply
For emergencies or simple application: how to make your own nuts out of (p.e.t.)-plastic bottles:take a bottle (#1 plastic, preferably smooth, w/o imprinted patterns or design etc) > cut off bottom and neck > start cutting (scissors) > the resulting ´tube´ into a consistent (width, depending on desired usage), slightly diagonally, thus sort of ´peeling´ it > wrap the strip around the screw/threaded-part/etc you need the nut for twice (for a start) > ´melt´ the edges of the wrapped part = joining them (i use a little solder-iron) > this way the wrapped beginning of the strip wont come loose > ´brush´ with the solder-iron (or whatever other source of heat) over the wrapped part (w/o) burning holes in it > this causes the plastic to shrink and press down into the thread and adopt its shape > once set keep doing more wraps of the rest of the strip until you reach a desired diameter > now, again, join the edges of the wrap with heat, and afterwards brush again over the outside of the created ´nut´, so that the plastic shrinks down & compacts > after having cooled off: unscrew the ´nut´ with pliers > ready for useps this is just a simple sketch. got no camera to take photos. sorry. so, please, ask whatever if you got any question. and any kind of feedback is more than welcome. bowing.
Topic by la xerra | last reply
Hello fellow life forms, I am currently working volunteerily at a local school, teaching young kids a bit about telescopes and astronomy. One topic I am currently planning is the mars rover(s) and I am planning on building a simple line follower as activity. As the budget is very low but I still want the kids to be able to build something to take home I am trying to keep it as simple as possible. After I ordered a pager/iphone motor a year back or so, I now ordered 100 vibration motors for $28.50 at aliexpress. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6020160679.html They work fine but are smaller then the one I had before, a rubbery encasing makes them the same form factor. http://www.ringohr.de/tmp6//motorbadpic001.jpg http://www.ringohr.de/tmp6//motorbadpic002.jpg (excuse the horrible pictures, I just have a older android phone) 1) The first problem is removing the weight. I have searched and found several tutorials (for example http://www.robotroom.com/TinyMotor.html) and aproaces, heat and regular pliers failed, for everything else I lack smaller tools. I consider ordering those grip pliers here in germany, which one would be better? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Gripzange-extra-kurze-Baulange-100-mm-Neu-nur-3-95-505-incl-Versand-/151165386645?pt=DE_Baby_Kind_Baby_T%C3%BCr_Treppenschutz&hash;=item233228bf95 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mini-Schweisser-Gripzange-125-mm-mit-Feststellzange-Klemmzange-NEU-OVP-/261407967637?pt=DE_Baby_Kind_Baby_T%C3%BCr_Treppenschutz&hash;=item3cdd210995 I also considered a watch wrist band tool as I have only a limited set of tools, http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stiftausdrucker-Armbandkurzer-Stiftentferner-Uhr-Federsteg-Uhrenstift-Entferner-/370981549407?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_Staubsaugerbeutel_PM&hash;=item566039355f or http://www.ebay.de/itm/Armbandkurzen-Stiftaustreiber-Stiftausdrucker-Werkzeug-/131084177829?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash;=item1e8539d1a5 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/1x-Stiftaustreiber-Stiftausdrucker-Zange-Uhrenwerkzeug-Uhrmacherwerkzeug-/310765191716?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash;=item485b0c8224 But I don't think I can adapt them to hold the motors. Any other tricks? 2) The second problem is to drive small wheels with those motors. With the vibration weight attached I can't drive a small foam or cardboard wheel, neither via friction nor a rubber band/belt. I hope it will work once the weight is off. I hope I can solve this issue, else I am stuck with 100 motors that are only suitable for bristle bots ;-) The vibration is strong enoug to move something, also attaching the motors to a cardboard square and directly touch the ground seems to have enough power. I could use a 3d printer to print a gear, but I would like to keep it as simple as possible. Also the groove bearing + shrink tube drive I have seen on another project would not be ideal to build with younger children. I initially was thinking of using bottle caps as wheels and wrap the motor axis with shrink tubing or isolation tape to drive the bottle cap by friction. Thanks for any ideas, advice or suggestions! -Marcus
Topic by schorhr | last reply