Does anyone know of a tutorial to place a USB inside a hockey puck? I thought that it would make a nice gift for a friend but I'm not sure how to make it and can't seem to find a similar tutorial.
Topic by sharksgirl04 | last reply
Hi. I purchased some leds for my puck lights but when I install all 3 they just flash but won't stay on. If I leave 1 standard bulb in with 2 leds then the arrangement works. Does any one know what is going on and is there a fix for it such as a resistor [ which I don't have alot of knowledge on] please help. Thanks in advance
Topic by fdeck | last reply
I apologize in advance for the complicated question, but here we go. I have wireless puck lights that work off either pushing the top to click on, or a wireless switch. The switch only controls on and off, no color control or brightness. The lights run off 3 AAA batteries per puck. My problem (which seems to be the most common problem with these puck lights) is that they drain the batteries even when off. I have a feeling the drain is due to the wireless antenna staying open to receive the signal from the switch. I found using a 5V USB plug powers them fine, but I don't want any draw to occur when the lights are off. So my 2 questions are... 1. Has anyone encountered a device like this and found a way to disable or even remove the wireless antenna only allowing the LEDs to work off the internal switch? 2. Does anyone know a way to bypass the switch so the lights are powered when power is present? My goal is to have the lights run off the 5V adapter with an inline switch to control the line up. vs. clicking each light on one at a time. I have attached images of the board top and bottom, also the lights are "Lightmates LED Wireless Puck Lights" notorious for eating batteries.
Question by NathanA52 | last reply
Hi all, I'm looking for a small, single puck LED lighting kit with a cord for a nightlight project I'm working on. Thus far I've only been able to find multi-puck kits, or very expensive single puck kits. Does anyone know of a relatively inexpensive solution, and preferably something that isn't too bright? Ideally something like this but with only 1 puck: http://www.lampsplus.com/products/colored-led-puck-light-kit__3y359.html Alternatively, if there's a simple DIY to build that would be great as well. I've seen a few but they seem pretty complicated and involve a lot of wiring work. Thanks in advance!
Topic by sirwoodland | last reply
First: The Cree MC-E LED is rated at 350 milliamps but has a max voltage of 700 milliamps. Does that mean I should get a 350 or 700 milliamp driver. Two: On ledsupply there are wired buckpucks with external dimming and potentiometers. What is the difference between external dimming and what a potentiometer would do (lower the voltage and so dim the light)? Three: On Deal Extreme it says driving voltage/current is 3.2V~3.5V, 350mA~700mA. On ledsupply it says "12.8Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 350mA and 13.6Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 700mA? What is the difference between driving and forward voltage/current? What voltage and current comes out of the buckpuck? I am trying to make a bike light. Thanks for the input -jacob
Question by Noblenutria | last reply
Re doing our cabinet puck lights
Question by Baaryd99 | last reply
I need to slice a hockey puck (1” thick by 3” diameter) into very thin discs (1/16” to 1/32” thick). This can be done... the NHL sells 1/4” puck coasters (see photo). Thinking about a mandolin design where the puck is mounted and the blade moves with my hand in a sled device. Puck rubber is very hard to slice. Thinking of Japanese angled blades (‘7’ shape rather than the American ‘V’ shape). Looked into ice auger blades (for blade thickness and stability). Just about de-gloved my hand with large box-cutter blades (bent as well when cutting the rubber). Any ideas? Raincock@ualberta.ca
Question by Marfeetus | last reply
Hi everyone, I'm looking for some guidance on a current project. I bought a small Led puck light. The light has a very sensitive touch sensor on it, so much so you only have to hover near it to activate/deactivate the light. I need to bypass this, end goal being I want a SPST style on/off instead. I have never seen or modified a touch sensor before, so looking for anyone that had done this for any reason. The light is DC powered, 4.5V.
Question by Labbe1980 | last reply
I got this in a basket raffle in 2002. It is in perfect condition and was never used. It has the signature on the face and they used a label maker to print out Turner Stevenson and put it on the side. If anyone can give me and estimate on how much it is worth, that would be great. Thanks!
Question by yankeee7 | last reply
I want to power a Cree MC-E LED with a 12 volt 5 amp/h SLA battery. Most of the time you have to use a buckpuck (an LED Driver). Do you always have to use a buckpuck? If I have a 12 volt battery and a 12 volt LED like the CREE MC-E, then I don't need a driver, right? Thanks Jacob
Question by Noblenutria | last reply
I have been playing with some remote controlled puck lights in my garden (because "real;" outdoor lighting is very expensive), and was thinking that these puck lights go through batteries a bit too often for my taste. I want to simply run some wires to each one, and then to some kind of converter that I could just plug into my outdoor-rated outlet. These lights aren't rated for outdoor use ever, so I will have to silicone the seams on the plastic cases. I can usually find that others have figured out how to do things before me and just copy them, but no one seems to have done this. Is that because it is not possible/dangerous/expensive? I'm more of a hammer and nail guy than a solder/wire guy, but I can follow instructions like the best of them. Is there any reason not to do this, or can it be done? I know that the hardware store outdoor lights are way too expensive, and this seems like a great option.
Topic by Purocuyu | last reply
It's time again for the Bacon Contest! Click through to get more info and see the breakdown of prizes. We want to see your most amazing bacon recipes and bacon-themed crafts. :D The contest will be open March 18 - April 25 - so get to making! You could win all sorts of fantastic bacon-y things, including a Wolfgang Puck griddle, towels, mugs, and salt samplers.
Topic by jessyratfink | last reply
Have a Shimano front wheel with hub dynamo. It generates 6 V DC, voltage regulated. I want to convert some ready to use LED gadgets for illuminating the bike and the road during these dark days. Many of them use 3 button cells or AA(A) batteries. A small circuit board in the head light (have a huge motorcycle front armature ready) must convert the voltage. When I look for a 'buck puck', it seems that this lowering step is too small for what's available. true or not???
Question by BobS | last reply
Hi! ive been working on a mousetrap car for my physics class and i was looking into the idea of pulleys to get more power to pull on the axle to rotate it. Ive noticed that alot of the Pulleys I see all rotate on an axle which I can not acheive due to the small space on the car. So my thought would be to anchor these small wooden pucks (small like 1 cm diameter) and have notches in them so that the fishing line wouldnt slip. (picture) Can I get some help on wether or not this would work? If it works can I get some input on how i could make it better? ex. different pulley designs that dont require moving parts. Thanks in advance!
Topic by noobiefied | last reply
Say I have 3 LEDs in series that have a Max Forward Voltage of 6v and an operating current of 1000mA. I could get a driver like a buck puck, say the 3021-D-E-1000mA BuckPuck. It has an input voltage of 5 - 32v, and let's say I give it the full 32v, so how does that not end up burning out my LEDs? My actual goal is to have 3 strings of 6 Cree XP-e LEDs connected to 3 Drivers. But I can't quite figure out how to properly size the driver. I know it puts out a constant current, and the voltage fluctuates -- what is there to determine which one to get so I don't end up pushing too much voltage? Or am I misunderstanding something about how the voltage will fluctuate? Sorry for the noobishness, this is my first real electronics project.
Question by z0dii | last reply
I'd like to know how to construct a backsplash like the one shown in the included image. I've hired some guys to help me install a new kitchen and we're almost finished. They sent me to IKEA to get a backsplash, but what I saw there wasn't impressive at all. IKEA only has these ugly plastic 24" sheets under the brand name 'Fastbo'. They're a joke. So I looked on the internet for something that looked better, and found this illuminated panel. We've already installed 14-2 cable in 3 places under the wall cabinets for undercabinet lighting. But we just assumed we'd be using those undercabinet puck lights. Then I found this picture and I want to do this instead. What will we have to do to reproduce this? What materials? What kind of lights? Where will the cables go? I assume the panel material is plexiglass but maybe I'm wrong. If the image does not show up in the post, you can see it here:
Question by noahbody_ | last reply
Hello, I am converting a 20' shipping container into a cabin. I have an electrical panel that houses both AC and DC. http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html What I need to know is what gauge wire to use for the DC lights. (plugs will be AC) I am using 12V DC lights: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-3W-350LM-Pure-White-Warm-White-E27-27-LED-5050-SMD-Energy-Saving-Corn/32231665973.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Dimmable-Round-White-Led-Puck-Light-12VDC-9leds-5050SMD-Super-Slim-And-Bright/717588402.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5M-50LEDs-DC12-DC-plug-copper-wire-string-lights-lighting-waterproof-LED-starry-decor-holiday-Christmas/1777662073.html I understand the basics of wiring but need to know the type and gauge of the wire to use. The longest run of wire will be max 25 feet. I believe I would use red and black wire as that is what is wired into the lights and transformers. Thanks
Question by micro-tainer | last reply
Hi, I'm not sure where to start, my understanding of the components and tech are minimal at best. I know what I want to achieve and I believe it is a possible project. I'm looking for any advice even if it exists outside of my current knowledge. Essentially the idea is similar to this "lost child locator" product- http://tinyurl.com/pd8goy7 or these t-shirts- http://tinyurl.com/mkm5b8k What I'm struggling with is how to carry out the concept without involving a smart phone. I'm looking for a larger range than 15M, multiple devices to respond to one-another, and for the watch to act as both transmitter and receiver. A simple LED indication is sufficient, no sound or vibration are necessary. I think BLE is the proper signal to work with but I don't want to involve smart phones at all. Compactness is a major plus, but ultimately I would settle for a mint tin or puck sized device. Everything would need to run on a small battery as well. The practical application of this project is for times when you're in a large crowd and you are looking for your group. If you had a watch tuned to your group, you could more easily track each other down if you knew someone was close.
Topic by minion-chan | last reply
I am trying to create a prop that is activated via either light (light sensor triggers the action) or push button. I would like to have an LED and small speaker with a prerecorded sound activate with either light or a push button activation. That way, when the circuit is activated, the LED will turn on and the sound will play. Then, once the sound has stopped, I'd like the LED to turn off. I would also like this to be as small as possible as I am working in a very limited space and I'd also like it to be battery operated. By small, I am working in a jar with a 2 inch diameter lid from Ikea. The jar will be fogged so most of the wiring and such will be hidden but I would like it as small as possible. I'm thinking a speaker from Build-a-Bear since they have the small puck recordable speaker that I can record my sound on. However, I have no idea as to how to get the LED to react to the sounds coming out of the speaker. I want the LED to light up as if it were talking. (I basically trying to make Navi from Zelda in a jar for a friend's Link costume for Comic Con). Any thoughts, suggestions, or insight would be helpful. Thanks, Micah
Question by DIY Micah | last reply
Our cable company is terrible. We've tried getting satellite (directv) but there is a big tree in the way and we rent so we can't do anything about that. You can get good quality versions of all of the actual shows that we watch online somewhere (directly from the network's website, hulu, etc). And watching them that way gives you all of the convenience of having a DVR - watch whenever, rewind, fast forward, pause, etc. Also, our TV has a PC input (which we use frequently). So I was thinking of getting a cheap computer to leave hooked up to the TV and set it up to easily navigate through shows. That way we could get rid of our EXPENSIVE and CRAPPY cable. The only problem is sports. I couldn't care less about them but I live with my boyfriend, who loves hockey. Hockey is the hardest sport to watch with low resolution (the puck is tiny! I can't find it in HD sometimes). It's also never shown on the local channels (so no option of the cheapy cable or using some kind of antenna). NHL.com has a subscription you can get to watch online but it won't show you games if it's available on your local cable. So basically - does anyone know of a good place online to watch live (preferably free and good quality) sports? Hockey is the most important but also football/baseball/basketball. Any help would be appreciated!
Question by jwystup | last reply
hey, a while ago in high school out teacher was showing uss tuff to do with the transferance of energy and stuff like that, what he brought into class one day was a rubbish bin, with a hole cut out bottom, and on the lid, there was a rubbish bag(the big black ones) , on top with a rubber band taped to it. basicaly the way it worked was, the band is taped to the bag,m when you pull the band back, you pull back the bag also, which pucks in air into the hole in the bottom of the bin,but at this time the hole is actually the top of the cannon, as thats where the air enters and comes out. now when the air is being sucked into the bin, our teacher also had a hose from a fog machine attached to it, which made the bin suck up air, now when he let the band go when the bin was full of air, a ball of air shot out, and the fog remained inside that air ball so we could see where the ball went, which was around 20 meters, anyway, the fog ball could nock over polystyrene cups from 20 meters. i want to know exactly how to build one of these as i cant really remember how they look like as i have forgotton, i was reminded of these once when i saw one being used on rollercaoster, in the minishow, elliot and the surfing scientist.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
I just removed some halogen puck size under the cabinet lights in our kitchen. They worked but required to plugged in. Unsightly and I lost an outlet in a high demand spot. I guess I could start putting holes in the wall and attempt to wire it to the outlet but the damn things don't have an on off switch just plug them in and they are on. Stupid (they predate my living there). I did find some nice LED battery powered units that work fabulously for ME. My wife on the other hand turns them on and then walks off. Fresh batteries in the morning and dead batteries at night. Fortunately the one we use the most is rechareable. Here's what I'd like to do but I'm rubbish with electricity and lighting so need someone smarter to tell me how. I want to put LED lights under the cabinets for additional countertop lighting. I'd like to have them wired into the light in the range hood and controlled by the switch that controls the light inside the hood. Turn on the hood range light and the LED lights come on too. It seems simple to me but many things have and not turned out that way. I assume some sort of transformer would have to be mounted somewhere unless they came built into the base unit. I'd be open to florescent lighting if it makes it easier. I haven't seen this instructible on the site. If it is thanks for reading, please disregard and point me in the right direction. I have the hardest time sometimes trying to find something specific for some reason. TIA Danneauxs
Topic by danneauxs | last reply
I want to mak a kinetic light using high-powered LEDs to produce glitter line through a thin layer of agitated turbulent water in a wall mounted shelf. So, this gives me a few questions, but let me start with the idea I've got. I want to seperate a shelving unit (preferably solid wood not particleboard with some decent HxDxW) into two compartments. A glass sheet would be slid into grooves onto the side supports. The upper portion of the shelving unit would then be wood, waterproofed with some thin styrene plastic sheets. The bottom would then be composed of a large aluminum sheet (recessed slightly upwards for astheatics) which would house several LEDs in addition to the power adapter and voltage regulator. This would likely follow the "powering high powered LED" tutorial's alternate power source to the pucks. At this point a small pump would be placed into the upper compartment along with just enough water to submerge the pump to a safe level. Perhaps a small recess would be included in the top to allow instant colour shifts by using stained clear plastic sheets (this would reduce total illumination, but these are to be mood/ambient accents not primary lighting source) to avoid any of the more expensive/complex colour shifting lamps. The big question I have at this point is how thermally safe this would be, and how much LED I would actually need to achieve decent brightness. Also, I would prefer if the bottom was modular enough I could remove and work on it without dissasembling the entire assembly, but this may not be possible. Finally, I was wondering if I could run the heatsink material up the ront of the shelf, past the glass, and into the water (this should give great heat dissipation) and have a SAFE and STABLE waterproof join between a flush glass-metal joint with possible use of epoxy and/or silicone caulking. Anything not specified in here I'm uncertain of how to do exactly. So! If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or awareness that this is pure madness (or has a better way t oget those glitter lines i lust for) please let me know.
Topic by JRGumby | last reply
Hey Im looking for someone that can help me build an older paranormal device called "The Extra Investigator" aka "The Ed Box". I can't find the right build for it ANYWHERE and only have one pic and the device details, this device is not used by "television paranormal investigators" any longer so its impossible to find any for sale or even other pics of this devices other than the one posted below... it has EMF detection, IR detection and detects "physical events', which i don't understand (BS basically) but it basically is an EMF detector that connects to the compass and points to the em field. Also, Im not sure how the IR detection is utilized. I have not seen this device in action, so this is what i'm assuming because of other gadgets with similar applications. I have found ways to build an EMF detector and an IR detector, I also have tons of parts, bread-boards.. everything needed for the build (have the enclosure and compass on the way via mail) but I need guidance in the build or it built for me. I understand that most serious builders don't believe in the applications of these devices but this is for a serious project and want to show this device on an episode of our new show, also they (the builder/helper) would get a shout out on an up-coming Amazon Prime show, along with payment for the labor and any parts i cant supply (paranormal engineering position for our team may open up if things work out. We are searching for a smaller company/engineer). But! ANY help would be appreciated! No need to make jokes and point out what i've obviously stated, if you cant or don't want to help, pls keep your negative comments to yourself. This device is also going to be a teaching tool for kids ages 12-16 who are interested in the paranormal and want to learn the basics. I wanted to show them some devices they wont see on TV. I'm under no illusions that these devices are 100 percent accurate and will not waste time with non-believers. This is a business situation, the build shouldn't matter. Thanks science peers
Question by langdoncobbb | last reply
INTROThere don't seem to be any good instructables on how to draw (or create art), so I decided to make one. Here are some tips I've learned in art class.You may be disappointed with the lack of pictures, but remember; this is about YOUR art, not mine. So, happy art-ing!*This was supposed to be an Instructable, but the evil robot jerk thingy deleted it. So here it is, forum-format.*STEP ONE: DRAWING1. Stay LOOSE. Use your whole arm. A good way to warm up is to do gesture drawings; they're fun and they look cool. (Gesture drawings are drawings done with one line. The idea is to capture the movement of the object, and the inside, not just the edges; it's hard to explain.)2. Draw lots. Doodle. Write with funky letters. Honestly, practicing will improve your art tenfold.3. For still lives (drawing things that you can see), draw the object you see, not the object you think you see. For example, if you're drawing a teapot, don't draw what a teapot looks like (or what you think a teapot looks like), draw the teapot in front of you. Draw the bumps and the shadows, the drips down the spout, the angle, etc.4. DON'T SMUDGE. Don't. You can get the same affect with shading, and it looks WAY better. Trust me.5. Draw real things. Don't just draw things from your imagination, draw the things in front of you.STEP TWO: PHOTOGRAPHYLots of people make the mistake of thinking that if their drawing is (to them) craptastic, then their art is. It's no true. You don't have to draw to make art; go grab a camera and take some photos. You'll be amazed at the number of cool designs you can find in your house -- the way the blanket on your bed ripples, the pattern your computer cables make, etc. Take photos of everything: the sky, your room, your walls, your face, your friends, your plants, your cat, everything. And finally, take lots and lots of photos. This is where a digital camera comes in handy. I guarantee that if you take 150 photos (it's not hard -- 150 should take you an hour) at least 25 will be decent. 10 will be good. And at least one or two will be spectacular.So get out there and take some photos! MATERIALSDrawing:Pencils:- Use a good, sharp HB or 4B pencil. Analogue, not mechanical.- Get a good eraser; the best are the rectangular white ones- For pencil crayons, I suggest a well-known brand; Crayola or Laurentien are my two main choicesPaper:- Get good, thick paper. The worst thing you can do is draw something spectacular on a piece of lined paper, so I suggest you carry some blank pages with you, in a binder or sketchbook.Pens:- I suggest Crayola Sketch pens (the ones with the thick tips), or SharpiesPainting:- NO PUCK-PAINTS. Don't use anything that comes dry. If it isn't in a tube, tub, or bottle, don't use it. Liquids have better colour -- they don't look as faint.Brushes:- Shell out for the good ones. Get ones with wooden handles, and tips that look like real hair. No plastic, synthetic-tipped garbage.- Take care of them: wash all the paint off of them when you're finished, and dry them off. Place them brush-ends up, so that the bristles don't get squashed and look like Calvin's head. And finally, mess around with crayons a bit (go Crayola) most people think they're for toddlers, but they're fun, and you can do some really cool stuff with them.
Topic by threecheersfornick | last reply
Well as it turns out, 8GB of RAM with Chrome and Kdenlive video editing software open at the same time causes Ubuntu to max out the RAM on my machine, and the machine will start to become very sluggish, eventually freezing for several minutes at a time with a high chance of never unfreezing. This used to be a very common issue that would occur with only google chrome open, due to a memory leak with my Gmail tabs. If I catch this sluggishness and eventually full system hang early enough, I can recover from it by entering CLI mode on ubuntu (alt+F1) and killing "chrome." After researching this problem a bit more, I created a swap file, since I do not have a SWAP partition, this helped delay the eventual unrecoverable system hang, but did not entirely fix the issue. I also tried different "swappiness" values, and also learned about this command "sudo sysctl -w vm.min_free_kbytes=400000" which supposedly forces a set amount of space to be unused in ubuntu. Looking at the system monitor this appears to do what it says, preventing a >95% RAM use, forcing swap to be used instead, and this was initially promising as it seemed to reduce the full system hangs, but created more small bugs, like freezing and stuttering wildly with buffered youtube videos, or playback in Kdenlive. A reboot seemed to have fixed that issue, but I'm not sure if those settings stuck around. ANYWAY; I guess there is no denying it, I simply do not have the RAM necessary for my workload anymore. I DO use intel HD integrated graphics, which uses the system RAM for graphics processing, so I wonder, will faster RAM allow slightly better graphics performance? My understanding is that GDDR is optimized for sheer bandwidth, not latency, while system DDRx RAM is optimized for latency. Does this mean my system will benefit more from high clock rate and high latency setting on a given RAM set, or is low clock and low latency RAM better? Most "gaming" orented builders seem to say RAM is not important other than esthetics and reliability. Also, is there a difference between buffered and unbuffered RAM? Currently, the specs for my RAM are: Geil EVO Veloce GEV38GB1600C9DC 4GBx2 This RAM I got for "free" with my motherboard, and it seems to work with the following settings in the BIOS: . . .1600MHz @ 9-9-9-28 timings, 1.5V . . .1333MHz @ 9-9-9-24 timings, 1.5V . . .1800MHz @ 11-12-11-33 timings, 1.65V These are the fastest possible settings that will boot. Note, I was not too happy with the 1800MHz overclock, especially considering my computer was acting strange and crashed during an update, corrupting Ubuntu. I was able to repair the installation of some corrupted packages halfway installed. It did not seem to make any difference in some games on ubuntu, which is how I tested stability/speed. I have also had issues where while the BIOS system check passes, ubuntu puck errors all over me when I clocked at 1600MHz @ 9-9-9-24, even at 1.65V. There is really no overclocking this currently overpriced and mediocre RAM to any degree. The three settings above were the best settings I could get. The RAM I am currently looking at getting is: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-BLS2K4G3D169DS1J/dp/B00ZRG009S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1452056996&sr;=1-1&keywords;=BLS2K4G3D169DS1J It is the most affordable, and states that it is 4GBx2 of 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 RAM. I think I can underclock it to match the speed of the rest of my RAM and I think it should work well alongside. What do you guys think? I do not want to have to buy the $67 16GB if I can help it.
Question by -max- | last reply