what is the easiest way to find SPDT switches without spending?

What is the easiest way to find SPDT switches without spending any money?

Question by mikee963   |  last reply


LED powering and switches

I am trying to build a small display box that has 2 LEDs (either 3mm or 5mm). One LED lights the displayed item from above, the other from below.  I plan to use only 1 LED at a time, so I presume I need an SPDT-Center off micro rocker switch.  I have a small model and it provides ample light with 2 CR2032 batteries, however, I'd like to be able to use an AC/DC adapter in place of the batteries. I need help figuring out what parts I need so I don't create anything dangerous. I am confused by the terminology used for the switch...how many amps/volts would I need? Am I correct that I would need a 6v adapter? Can the adapter be wired directly to a battery holder, or can it be SAFELY wired directly to the switch/LEDs? I want to order some stuff, but I don't know what I need! If anyone can provide this info, I would be grateful! Thank you.

Topic by craigo 


Switch buying confusion. What is the difference between On - Off - On and (On) - Off - On? Answered

I am having some trouble buying switches from mouser. I need a toggle SPDT switch that has an On - On (on a different line) type workings (like seen here under SPDT). The problem is Mouser has so many different options in their "switch function" filter. Which one(s) should I use? What do the Parentheses mean? Does it mean Momentary or Something else? What about the "None" seen in a few options? What's up with "MOM"? Here is a link to the page I'm talking about.

Question by GenAap   |  last reply


What is the function of a SPDT switch?

Hi....my question is that what is the actual function of the SPDT (single pole double throw) switch and I would also really appreciate if any body also told that how does it work...Thanks..

Question by Wisaam   |  last reply


Charger circuit

Hey there, I'm planning to build a portable stereo speaker box thingy (you know what I mean). In order to power the 2x10W amplifier I want to use a 7.2V 1400mAh battery pack from an old RC car. As the housing of the box will be sealed I want to implement a mechanism to charge the pack. For this I wanted to achieve 3 things: -If the Power-Switch is turned on, the amp should be powered from the power line -If the Charge-Switch is turned on, the battery pack should be charged -If both of the switches are turned on, the amp should receive power from the power line while the battery pack is being charged. I have thought of the following cabling (see attached picture for a schematic) The blue box is the amplifier, the green box the battery pack and the orange connectors are tamiya connectors (the ones for RC cars) The first switch (marked in green) is a normal DPST switch which establishes the connection with the power line as well as the connection with the battery The second switch is a SPDT switch and activates either the connection between the battery and the amp or the connection between the power line and the battery. Will this work the way I think it will or does this configuration any faults? If the latter, what can I do I have to change? I'm actually really new to electronics, this if my first project so forgive me, if this setup is actually BS Cheers and sorry for the long post ^^'

Topic by Felixkeeg   |  last reply


HELP for using SPDT relay to turn on toy

Hello All, I'm new to physical computing and have a question that's probably very easy and yet I can't figure it out. I have a doll that cries or laughs depending on which connection you make (if you press the left side it cries, right side it laughs). I want to hook it into a bread board and then control when it cries or laughs with arduino. My teacher said I need to do this using a relay (its the big black one, I believe it is a SPDT). He gave me the schematic that I've attached here. From what I know the relay has 8 pins. according to this sketch I need to connect the 2 pins furthest away (nothing near them) to a diode and 5Volts. But- what about those other 6 pins? What do they attach to? Any help would be great! Thanks

Topic by glittersauce   |  last reply


remote actuator with momentry relay

Hi Firstly Im new to this and my electronic knowledge is very limited What im trying to do is make an actuator move up and down using a remote using a momantary action From what I understand I need and actuator (obviously), an ir remote and a power supply I have sourced a few parts (see below) just dont know how they will or if they can go together actuator: http://annbodesign.com/GENERAL-PURPOSE-ACTUATORS-FOR-AUTOMATED-PROJECTS ir remote: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-Remote-control-On-off-2-Channel-momentary-relay-/320627757256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash;=item4aa6e750c8 So what i need to happen is that when i hold one of the buttons the actuator opens and when i hold the other button the actuator closes As i said im not sure how to or if these products will go together, so if not, please could you lead me to another website where i could get the products from, also not sure if i will need limit switches etc etc ps im in the uk, so a uk based site would be an advantage for me thanks pete

Topic by newbie308   |  last reply



solenoid actuator and led momentary push button door locks

I have a car door lock 2 wire actuator one wire pushes the solenoid actuator to unlock and the other wire pulls to lock. I want to install these in my car with a momentary push button switch which illuminates when doors are locked and button is pressed once and then turns off when doors are unlocked and same button is pressed again. Should this be a dpdt on off on switch, or spdt on off on? I know with rocker dpdt switches you can set it so reversing polarity will make the actuator pull or push whichever the opposite is. Do they make a push button that I can press to lock, press to unlock.

Topic by graphitej   |  last reply


where can i get SPDT switch lever? Answered

This robot is very interesting and I want to make it

Question by chaitanyaak47   |  last reply


Anyway I can use two or more SPST relays function as a SPDT relay? Answered

I have got many SPST relays but no SPDT ones. The project that I am making requires SPDT relays, so is there anyway I can connect two or more SPST relays that could possibly function as a SPDT relay, by that I mean, a SPST relay turns on another circuit when the coil is energized, but is there anyway I could use more of them so that if the coil of any one or more is energized, along with completing another circuit, it also simultaneously breaks another and vice versa.

Question by Wisaam   |  last reply


Speaker Switch help PLEASE!? Answered

So I have two sets of speckers. one pair is attatched by two lengths of speaker wire to my stereo. Can I buy a switch that would allow me to have both plugged in but switch between the two pairs?? If you were going by the picture below it would be the black and red wires go to the stereo and you can switch between the green/blue and the orange/pink wires which go to the sets of speakers Please help!! Thanks in advance!

Question by MilotisX   |  last reply


Adding led to wah without true bypass?? Answered

I have a crybaby gcb-95 wah, which does not have true bypass, but i want to add an led WITHOUT converting to true bypass. it has an spdt switch. does anyone have a diagram on how to do this?

Question by bobbyderf123   |  last reply


LT Spice Switches?

I have a simple question... If anyone here knows about the program LTSpice, is it possible to create switches that are manual, like pushbutton switches, spdt/dpst/etc., not automatic switches?

Question by 101yummYYummy101   |  last reply


What items at an Ontario dollar store will get me 2 or even more SPDT switches? Answered

I'm working on a simple BEAM style robot to entertain my kittens and keep them from attacking each other, so after I have demolished a combo dvd/vhs player to which we had lost the remote (recycled for a reason) I found all needed motors (2 similar voltages) but am still lacking the sensors to give it enough 'brains' to navigate around the kitchen and not get cornered. If anyone has seen an item in the buck or 2, dollar giant, etc, stores that contains 2 or more SPDT switches (If its a dollar, i wouldn't expect greatest of quality) or any other nifty gadgets (bright led's, small voltage motors, etc), it would be a great hint for other bug-bot builders on a budget. I am out to search for such a device, even if I find SOMETHING thats useful in store before I receive an answer, I might just answer my own query as I'm sure someone out there has pondered the same stump, you all know you are a cheap recycling opportunist and instructabl-er at heart.

Question by fightthemachine   |  last reply


Simple Electronic Help

I'm currently building a small hybrid solar panel car for a school sompetition(runs off of batteries or solar), and I need a bit of wiring help, here's my problem and some other stuff. I have 2 SPDT switches and 1 DPDT switch. I'm using one of the spdt switch for on and off, the other to switch from solar to battery, but i need help for the dpdt. There's 2 sets of solar panels (2 pairs of 3 hooked in series, for simplicity sake, I'm just going to say 2 solar panels), and I want to hook them up to the dpdt switch and the motor and the battery so that: I can turn on/off the motor (easy), switch between solar and battery (easy), and switch between paralell solarpanels or series (what I'm having problems with), any help?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


I have SPDT with 12 volts hooked to 2 LED strips of the same reel, I just cut them. I need some input

I have some 12 volt LED strips, well I cut and made two and wired them to  SPDT on-off-on toggle switch. Then I wired a LED indicator LED to the outside of the box to indicate one was on, not both(don't ask me why,lol). I used a 7812 to get 12 volts cause the walwart was to high, my problem is I get the 12 volts from the side I don't have the indicator light which I know now is taking away from the 12 volts from the other side I have the indicator LED to, my question is, how do I wire it so I don't have that voltage drop? Make the voltage coming in higher? Like 14 volts? That won't hurt the LED srtrips rated for 12 volts will it? I would appreciate an answer, I'm pretty green and limit my projects to only what I know but I want to learn.I have all kinds of components from resistors to caps to transistors. Sicerely Angelo  P.S. Sorry about the crude drawing, I used paint I could even use some advise on that in the future.

Question by angpal59   |  last reply


How can I reverse polarity using 2 switches?

I am trying to reverse polarity on a small 12 v pump. I currently have 2 SPDT switches and have them hooked up like a DPDT. I am getting voltage feedback when they are in the off position. I need to have t switches any help?

Question by craigbalex   |  last reply


Where to buy switches and components?

Hello Community, Radioshack has closed and my stash is dwindling. What is the best plac to buy switches, LEDs, resistors and other such components?

Question by N1020   |  last reply


SD-card to Wii/PC Switch. Any better solutions than 4 DPDT and 1 SPDT Switches?

I've created a quick schematic of the switch I want to make: http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7481/sdcardmanualswitch.png Basically I want to make a switch with 1 input(SD-card) and 2 outputs(Wii and PC), which makes it possible for me to connect the sd-card to my PC, so I'll be able to transfer data to it. Then, by using the switch, connect the SD-card to my Wii. From what I understand the input (SD-card) has 9 pins and 2 outputs(Wii & PC) have18 pins, which means it would be possible to connect 4DPDT switches and 1SPDT switch. But that just seems like an awful amount of buttons, just to switch from PC to Wii.  So my question is: is there a more suitable solution for a switch? Ps. I excuse my poor English, It aint my first language :)

Question by shaddyd   |  last reply


switch help

I'm doing a school contest with a car which requires a toggle switch. I'm gtoing to use a dcd to dc converter to give me an edge. The only problem is that it needs to be a momentary switch. whenever you push the switch down it goes on. Whenever you push it down again it turns off. Any idea for a circuit so that a spdt (3 pins) toggle switch will act like a momentary switch each time it's flicked for a time like a second?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


Switching voltage inputs with a chip

I have a small project I'm working on that uses rechargeable batteries.  However I want the device to stop drawing from the batteries whenever an external power source is plugged in.  (The external power source would then power the internal battery charger and the main device.)  Is there a chip or circuit that could be used for this?  My only alternative is to modify the power supply port to include a micro spdt that will switch when plugged in.  But I'd rather like to avoid that.

Topic by stalledaction   |  last reply


Basic circuitry help? [not yet resolved]

(I wasn't sure if this should be a comment on the Instructable or not, as it is a bit long, and I have some pictures..) I am following a sound-reactive LE 1.D tutorial and having a bit of trouble. The circuit consists of a SPDT switch, resistor, LED, transistor, and a 3.5mm stereo jack. When I play music using this stereo jack, I get no response from the LED. I'm trying to make something on a breadboard for the first time, so I'm thinking maybe I'm missing something because of that. Here's how the machine is supposed to work: - Positive charge flows to SPDT switch, and if it's in the correct state, continues to the 150 ohm resistor - Anode of LED is connected to the resistor, and the cathode is connected to the "emitter" lead of a TIP31 transistor ("base" is wired to the power bus) - The "collector" lead of the transistor is attached to one of the outputs on the stereo jack - The ground wire on the stereo jack returns to the common lead of the SPDT switch. Perhaps I wired something wrong? I've included pictures if the description is not sufficient. EDIT: I've modified the circuit a bit - maybe I can take pictures / draw a diagram tomorrow. Now, here's how it works: - Positive charge flows from positive side of the power bus to the "base" lead of the transistor - Collector lead of the transistor is connected to the left-channel lead of the stereo jack (also, the ground pin of the stereo jack is connected to the negative side of the power bus) - Emitter lead of the transistor is connected to a 150-ohm resistor - Resistor is connected in series with two LEDs - The cathode lead of the second LED returns to the negative lead of the power bus The LEDs do turn on now, but that's the problem - they are always at full brightness no matter the volume of the music. Even if no music is playing, the LEDs are fully lit. I've used a multimeter to check what's happening, and after pressing the negative lead of the multimeter to the cathode lead, and the positive lead to the anode lead, it shows a constant voltage of 1.986 V. I don't understand how this isn't working - I've verified that the collector lead is correctly connected to the left-channel wire... maybe I should try the right channel? Or a different cable? tl;dr: Rewired and the LEDs are always at full brightness. Transistor doesn't seem to be affecting the emitter output, for some reason..

Topic by hansengel   |  last reply


How to pick correct push button switch?

Hi, the pushbutton switch in my coleman lamp is broken and I need a replacement. It's a push button with 2 leads. I don't know how to tell if its spdt, spst, or the other ones. How do I pick the right switch? Its rating says it is 5A/40A 250V. It stays in the on position until it its pushed again. I linked some pics on imageshack (couldn't get the uploader here to work.). Maybe that will help. Thanks http://img692.imageshack.us/i/img0705d.jpg/ http://img683.imageshack.us/i/img0706b.jpg/ http://img683.imageshack.us/i/img0707n.jpg/

Question by phillyj   |  last reply


Changing polarity

Hi everyone, the problem I have is probably wither really simple or really complex.. .but either way here goes: I have scavenged an old CD-ROM drive for parts, namely, the motor and gears which move the CD-ROM door in and out (depending on the direction the current/voltage is flowing). I want to setup a system where upon flicking a switch (either SPST, SPDT, etc, whatever is needed) in one direction, the tray ejects, and when flipped the other way, the tray loads. In essence, I want the current/voltage running in opposite directions depending on the position of the switch (Up, one direction; down the other direction, and center, off). If necessary some indicator LED's and additional switches could be used... but I don;t really know where to go from here.. .any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Peter

Topic by Murf   |  last reply


How to make my house window open (and then later close) horizontally (linearly) on a timer?

I have a fan on a timer in my house but I need a window to open and close so that the fan is effective (it will be opening during the day in the winter and during the night in summer.) The window is 3 feet by 4 feet. I was thinking of using a jackscrew set-up, but all the diagrams I've seen have an SPDT switch, which won't help me because I'll be asleep or at work. So I need both the ability to connect it to some kind of timer AND the ability to open AND close separately. The idea of re-purposing a garage door opener strikes me as a good idea, but it's massive overkill. But it would have most of the attributes I need--I would just have to have a timer trip the circuit and HOPE it never gets out of sync and mistakes open for close.

Question by henway   |  last reply


Adding Capacitors to a circuit board

I have a circuit board I made, very simple, you connect a 9 volt battery to it, power opens a relay, and turns on a green led, there is a zener diode (6.1v maybe, cant remember) for a flashing red led, the led flashes if the voltage drops below the voltage of the zener diode.  My questions are; 1.) If I add capacitors to this, will it extend battery life (about 4 hours right now) 2.) If 1 is yes, what kind of capacitor will I use? I work with capacitors every day, but bigger ones like 5mf 330V, 35mf 440v, dont know much about the smaller ones. 3.) If you can make something better, please let me know, it needs a power light, a low battery light, and a relay (SPDT, 9 volt battery is on the coils to keep relay open). Ideally I would like this board to have a long battery life.  Any help would be great.

Topic by EXL949   |  last reply


On/off switch soldering help for a "taken apart" mp3 player.

Hi all, So i'm currently trying to do one of the instructables right now, which calls for taking apart an mp3 player and (in my particular case) unsoldering the on/off switch and replacing it with another switch (an SPDT switch). The trouble is, I've never messed around with something like this before, so I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. I'm wondering if anyone more experienced with electronics/soldering would be able to help me out. I just want to know what I'd have to unsolder to get the switch off of the board, and if there are any suggestions as to what to expect when it comes off. Looking at it up front there seems to be two metal solder points on either side of the switch, and three small flat rectangular metal things sticking out from the side opposite of the switch itself. I'm not sure if those are soldered or what they do. Can someone help me?

Question by mrbenku   |  last reply


3 way light switch push button, working at low voltage controlling line V light

I'm adding an additional light to a room with 2 entrances in an old house. Instead of using the common 120V 3-way SPDT switches to control the light fixture from 2 points, I'd like to use a relay (or something electronic) directly connected to the load of the light, and I'd like to run low voltage wires to push buttons located near the doors of the room. These will control the light by one press = on (if the light is already off), and the following press will = the alternate condition, the light going off. IOW, the push-button will toggle the on/off condition.  There should be a commercially available relay (some kind of latching relay, perhaps) product with the circuit. Can anybody recommend something? Or, perhaps I could put together the components myself. Does anybody have a schematic of something along these lines?

Topic by nehmo   |  last reply


circuit troubleshooting help

Hi- First on an unrelated note, does anyone besides me see "A fatal, non-recoverable error has occurred" over on the Makezine forums when you try to sign in? I've been getting that for weeks! Anyway... I'm working on a variable power supply that uses a 317 to regulate the 18 volts coming from a laptop switching supply. There are two 5k 10-turn (for precision) pots with a switch so that you can have two "preset" voltages and switch between the two of them at will. There's a single output. There's also a little lamp (I used a micro mini 12v lamp instead of an LED because that's what I had) that goes on above the pot that's currently switched in. The circuit I built (schematic is below) seems to work more or less fine. 'cept there's two strange issues: First, although the pots are linear (not sure if that would make the difference or not), they seem to "flatten out" toward their upper range. The first six turns gets you from 1.2 to about 16.5 volts. Then the last four turns either don't change anything or they do so in _very_ fine increments so that you only get from 16.5 to just over 17 volts. That's in four whole turns of the knob. This happens for both pots. The second stange thing is that turning the non-activated pot will affect the current voltage. When you increase the resistance (turn the knob to the right), the voltage level actually drops! Conversely, turning it to the left will increase the voltage. Remember, this is the switched-off pot. The switched-on pot works as it should (barring the mentioned weirdnesses). It looks like how much the voltage changes depends on how many turns you've given the activated pot. I suspect this has to do with me using a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT and maybe some voltage / current bleeding through the lamps and into the adjust pin, or something. But I ca/n't figure out why the switched-off pot would do anything. Anyway, take a look at the schematic. Is there anything I've done wrong that I'm missing? Should I, um, switch (*cough*) to a DPDT switch (something like the second schematic)? I used the SPDT cuz that's what I had. Anyy help is appreciated, Thanks!

Topic by deadbilly   |  last reply


Does anybody know about electrical relays, please? Bi-Switching Circuit Needed to Control 2 x 1000w Kilns On and Off.

I have a workshop which has 2 x 1000w kilns. To fire my pottery etc, I need to put a kiln on for about 12 hours. No ordinary cheapo timer can handle the wattage load and so I am thinking of using a heavy-duty relay. Are you good with relays? If so, I would value your help, please. What I want to do is plug my timer into the mains socket, have the relay connected to the timer so that it knows when to switch on and off, and then I need two outlets (one for each kiln) so that when one is switched on, the other is off, and so on. I have thought of a 30A, 240v relay which is SPDT. I have deliberately over-specified the relay because I want it to be safe and to last, as well as use the thing for other applications where there may be a large inductive load (as opposed to resistive load). I can provide a link to the relay, but I'm not sure if this allowed. Many thanks. Kevin

Question by kevinhannan   |  last reply


Can I add an audio out jack to a desktop radio (stereo) with isolated left / right channels?

The plan was to add a stereo output jack and a switch to turn the speakers on/off. This way I could leave a cord plugged in and still have the option of switching the unit's speakers on or off. Anyway, a visual inspection of the circuit board shows that the two grounds are isolated from each other. The plan was to tie the grounds together and switch with an spdt between speakers and the jack, then add another set of positive leads to the jack for left and right. Now that I see they are on isolated and separate circuits, I am hesitant to tie them together. Maybe I just need to go with RCA jacks and a dpdt? I guess my real question is "am I going to blow up my radio?" Do I need to worry about dummy loads or about frying the driver circuit? I realize the audio level will not be "line-out" and I have read that a 1k resister will help, but I don't mind turning down the volume before running the signal to another amp. Thanks!?

Question by elNorm   |  last reply


PIR Sensor troubleshooting

Hello there people of the internets, I'm an electronics newb, hoping someone can help me. I'm trying to trigger a 1.5-3 volt DC motor using a PIR sensor, without using a microcontroller.   I have the PIR sensor's output connected to an npn transmitter which triggers a 5v spdt relay to switch on the motor.  When testing the circuit with an LED, it works perfectly, turning the LED on when motion is detected.   When I swap the LED for the motor, the relay turns on the motor repeatedly every 6 seconds no matter whether there is motion or not. (it also may have killed the relay after about a minute or two) I tried a different circuit, using a transistor as a switch instead of a relay, which also works perfectly with an LED, but when the motor is connected instead, again the motor is turned on every 6 seconds without a care for the PIR output. What could I be doing wrong here?  I'm assuming that perhaps it has something to do with kickback from the motor...maybe? Anybody have any advice?  (Remember, no microcontroller!  As much as I'd love to try my hand at using arduino or the like, I can't afford to use a microcontroller for this particular project.)

Topic by yuck   |  last reply


help with a transistor circuit that acts like a latching relay

Hello all,, I just joined and this is my first post even though I have lurked here for some time. Now my question. I am trying to build a circuit that behaves like a latching relay. I can build a latching relay from ordinary spdt relays, however im working on a project that is going to require several of them and size is an issue. Im pretty sure a few transistors will do what I want and im sure I could figure it out on my own. I just figured I would ask here to see what kind of answers I get. I don't want any arduio stuff or microcontrollers.. My goal is to keep it as simple as possible and completely solid state and electromechanical.. basically I need it to be triggered by a negative pulse and stay on until a different negative pulse is sent to turn it off.. If possible I want to work into the circuit an adjustable output, either - or + so I can just set it to suite my purpose. It wont need to handle much current, I can add relays to the circuit to handle the higher current stuff.. I have basic to moderate experience and knowledge with electronics so I can understand some terms, but please keep it worded as plain as possible.   Thank You...

Topic by aclark32   |  last reply


Extemely simple automatic emergency light.

I'd like some help to settle an argument regarding my extemely simple automatic emergency light.According to my friend, who installs emergency lighting, this circuit is too simple and has too many components missing but I say he's wrong, if one part fails it can easily be replaced. I'm not and electronics expert either.I'll explain the circuit...5v comes from a 5v 2A phone charger. Battery is a 32Ah 12v SLA. 12v charger is a smart charger with built-in status monitor.SPDT 5v relay rated to switch 12v @ 17amp maxThe light is a 12v 5 metre LED Strip with built in current-limiters and draws arount 2A.Basically, 5v powers the relay which means the battery is connected to the smart charger that keeps it topped up while there is mains power (240v here in UK). If there is a power cut the relay turns off and battery is switches over to the LED light Strip. Its that simple.It works as designed, no parts have failed and I haven't found any signs of over-heating. My friend believes it should all be one circuit and not seperate parts and is a fire risk as it is.He just won't let it go, so does he have a point or is he just being a/an _________ (fill in the blank, lol)? I've included a schematic of the circuit. Not sure if I've drawn the relay properly though.

Topic by cyberraxx   |  last reply


What kind of switch to operate and bypass motion sensor security light?

I would like to be able to manually operate the light for when I need it to stay on continuously, and then have it operate on the motion sensor when I am away from it. Basically I have a motion sensor light mounted above the entrance to my shed/ workshop, and sometimes I need to set up my sawhorses outside of the shop to do work at night and the light is sufficient, but when I have been still too long, perhaps doing some figuring or whatever, it goes out. I don't want to have to continue to wave my hands about to get it to come on every time it goes off. Do I need a double pole single throw switch, or a single pole double throw, or what(is a three way light switch a SPDT- [single pole double throw] switch)? Is there a way to wire it to a single switch where I could flip it over to one side to operate continuously, and then flip the switch to make the light work off of the motion sensor when I have gone in for the night? Please forgive the ignorance. I just can't envision it in my head. Thanks.

Question by stevecinstrfme   |  last reply


The Ultimate Man Laptop Case (While going green!)

Hey everyone, I recently just had the idea of making the ultimate man laptop case, and once i get some $$$, it will be put into affect. Its body will be made out of a harbor frieght tools case (metal), gonna cut out the front and reinforce with wood, then goes on (2) 6v solar cells. Behind on the inside there will be foam surrounding the DC Volt reader, and if i can manage, two cheap portable speakers that i have that run off a USB cable/aux. They can easily be converted though. Im going to cut out a slot for my SSD to be placed as well as some headphones if theres room. On the bottom part, im going to send those wires to the power controller for the /solar/ and the /battery/ which will be a 12v Gel RC Car battery (long ones that are fairly big). After that comes the DC-AC inverter which will be disected to save space and the plugs will be movable. SPDT switch comes next to switch from 12v to the 5v USB hub thats gonna be installed. Foam will encase everything, then im throwing some .25 aluminum sheeting on top for a nice finished look. This whole project should run me about $350 or so. I realize this case might be heavy, but I think once most of the parts have been sheded of there cases then I think it might be a little lighter. Going to overheat and/or short circuit something? I plan on making a channel for each seperate item in the foam, and throwing 2 USB fans on them. Any help would be greatley appricated with this project :)

Topic by Darkshot   |  last reply


Recorder module, 7 LEDs, and headphone jack

I'm working on this project: https://www.instructables.com/id/Legend-of-Zelda-Treasure-chest-with-sound/ This is the stuff I'm using: 9V recorder module: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102855 SPDT switch: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049718 7-8 white LEDs: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060980 I'm adding onto this project a little. The goal is to have the LEDs turn on when the sound starts and turn off after 6-6.5 seconds (while the sound is still playing, just before the duh duh duh duh!). I know the 9v battery isn't going to be enough. Somehow I need to introduce more power to light the LEDs to full capacity, but not overload the recorder module after the lights power off. Does anyone know what part(s) I need to make the light off delay work?  I also need to find a way to line up the LEDS evenly along an 8" (width) by 1-1/2" area. I was thinking soldering to two strips of metal for positive and negative (two pieces separated with silicone rubber). Will my strategy for lining up the LED's along the back work? Any suggestions? I would also like to replace the speaker with a female headphone jack so I can easily record the sound without background noise. This article (http://kipkay.com/wp-content/plugins/download-monitor/download.php?id=10) also uses the same audio recorder and suggests it's as simple as wiring the jack to the positive/negative wires stating you can use a microphone or plug it into your computer. Isn't a headphone jack on a computer powered, whereas headphones are not? I would think the recorder module is already supplying its own power for recording. Wouldn't the power from the headphone jack potentially overload the recorder circuit? So is it OK to wire a female headphone jack to the positive/negative wires on the recorder module without a resistor? Any insight you guys could provide would be appreciated! Thanks!

Topic by lukesc   |  last reply


Controlling a DC motor (12v) using a SN754410 Motor Driver Ic and 2 snap-action switches?

I am using a Arduino Uno with a SN754410 ic to control my 12v motor (exactly like diagram from http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Labs/DCMotorControl) Managed to use a SPDT switch to change direction (sheer miracle for me) I plan to put 1 snap-action switch in front of my bot and 1 at the back, so it will travel forward until it hits an obstacle, then reverse all the way until it hits another obstacle. Once the motor is activated, it will go maybe go for 5 minutes, then pause for 10mins, then on for 5 mins again, and so forth. First attempt with the arduino so any help with detailed instructions about how to go about wiring these two extra switches and the programming code would be greatly appreciated! Also, I need it to be mobile so I'm thinking of connecting a 12v2.2AH/20HR sealed rechargeable battery to the motor itself, and another 9v for the board cos I read it regulates it to 5v. Will this be ok? Will it be able to last my bot for a few hours? My current code: int switchPin = 2;    // switch input int motor1Pin = 3;    // H-bridge leg 1 (pin 2, 1A) int motor2Pin = 4;    // H-bridge leg 2 (pin 7, 2A) int enablePin = 9;    // H-bridge enable pin     void setup() {     // set the switch as an input:     pinMode(switchPin, INPUT);     // set all the other pins you're using as outputs:     pinMode(motor1Pin, OUTPUT);     pinMode(motor2Pin, OUTPUT);     pinMode(enablePin, OUTPUT);     // set enablePin high so that motor can turn on:     digitalWrite(enablePin, HIGH);   }     void loop() {     // if the switch is high, motor will turn on one direction:     if (digitalRead(switchPin) == HIGH) {       digitalWrite(motor1Pin, LOW);   // set leg 1 of the H-bridge low       digitalWrite(motor2Pin, HIGH);  // set leg 2 of the H-bridge high     }     // if the switch is low, motor will turn in the other direction:     else {       digitalWrite(motor1Pin, HIGH);  // set leg 1 of the H-bridge high       digitalWrite(motor2Pin, LOW);   // set leg 2 of the H-bridge low     }   }

Question by email.jodi.now   |  last reply


Electrical wiring and charging system help? Answered

Im working on a electrical upgrade for a power wheel.  Im hoping someone can take a look at it and tell me if it looks ok, or if they see a problem with it. The mod keeps the 12V 12Ah system, but adds an additional 6V 1200Ah SLA Battery wired through a realy to allow a 18V boost when the Switch is triggered momentarily.  Ive also attempted to add the following features: -6V Battery meter for (NOS) Battery -12V Battery Meter -2 Remote fired Nerf Guns -2 Small front speakers with a 3.5mm jack and a usb portfor an MP3 Player -2 working switch activated headlights -2 working switch activated fog lights -2 working brake lights -18V nos Button for a momentary boost I have it drawn to use a 12V charger and a 6V charger, because the batteries will obviousely drain at different rates.  I only have a basic knowledge of how relays work.  My biggest concern is the chargers.  Will they charge the Vehicle the way they are, or do I need to add another relay so that when a charge is detected i t disconnects the "ignition".  Also if I have all of the voltages correct.  the regulator breakdowns are on the right along with the relay info.  Thank you for any help you can provide. EDIT: Added another drawing for some updated ideas. 3/11/13: I know that the DPDT coils are only getting 6V.  ignore the DPDT part number and specs.  i was able to find 6V DPDT relays. -Also added three supporting photos, charging, run mode, accessory mode.  (Black lines have no connection in supporting pics, except main ground, which is also black) - Had to redraw, the DPDT's I found could only handle 15A per contact, and im pretty sure the motors alone draw around 18A.  So back to lots of SPDT's 3/12/12: Heres a schematic for the main system stopping at the terminal board.  im not worried about the lights and accessories, those i know how to wire,  Please let me know if this will work.  I apologize in advance, im not very good at drawing schematics, thats why i stick to drawing the physical layout.

Question by supramp   |  last reply


Could I have some help coming up with a circuit that turns it self off after three momentary button presses?

Hi, I was wondering if I could have some help coming up with a circuit,  Basically me and my friend are modding nerf guns and I thought it would be cool If I could find a way to make the rapid strike fire three darts then stop (or three round bursts XD) Any how the part of the dart gun this in-tales seems to be the little arm that pushes darts into two rotating discs (this is one that uses fly wheels as opposed to a plunger) it works on a motor and gear that pushes it in and out, pushing the trigger activates this.  (I thought it would be a solenoid and that the trigger would put out electricity in bursts, or are those called pulses? any way that's where all this using a momentary switch idea comes from) So if anyone thinks that they can make a circuit using only the power from the trigger and lots of good timing a lesson would be much appreciated :D My Idea seems unnecessarily complicated but it's all I could come up with :D ,Any way the idea for the momentary switch circuit would be put some form of proximity sensor switch near the arm (the one that pushes the dart into the fly wheels). Something like a magnet switch or IR thingy ( I forgot what there called I think magnetic reed switch and Infa red proximity sensor or detector?) the idea after that was that each time the arm passed the sensor it would activate the sensor,  using that and the trigger(if they were both needed to initiate the circuit then releasing the trigger would reset the circuit) the first and second shots would push the dart into the fly wheels and the third would also push a dart into the fly wheel and turn off the circuit(or turn on the circuit activating a spdt relay and switching the link to the motor off) So far I've come up with some ideas using relays but just pressing the button once activated the whole circuit, I've also though of using a capacitor but I don't really know how to use them, if they work by holding X charge that can be filled by pressing a momentary button, that is hooked up to Y amount of power (possibly through a resistor), Z amount of times fills the capacitor stopping the circuit that would work,  though I would have to find a way to discharge it... Thanks for any help if I get any XD , and if posting my current not working circuit designs would help I'll do that, just have to figure out how to draw a circuit...

Question by justomeguy   |  last reply


Intel® IoT Invitational

**UPDATES!!** 12/18/15  Thank you so much TO ALL OF YOU for your patience during this process, it means the world to us that everyone has participated in this Invitational. Everyone has worked so hard on their IoT projects, and we have enjoyed all the stories about bringing these creations to fruition. <3 After a long wait, we are finally sharing the finalists with the Instructables Community. Hoping to announce winners Monday or Tuesday! 12/1/15 Hey guys, Just wanted to update everyone as to what is going on with finalist selection and announcing winners. You guys have been so patient in this process, and we are so proud of every project the Instructables.com community has shared using their Intel IoT Edison development kit. The Intel Team is still reviewing projects and code, and will hopefully have their ultimate finalist selection done soon. It has been so hard choosing projects to be considered for the awards as they are all so wonderful! Again, thanks for your patience, and feel free to reach out to intel@instructables.com if you have additional questions. -Audrey 8/17/15 Hey guys! I am so excited to finally set launch dates for the Intel IoT Contest!!! We have a few more packages waiting to be received by Instructables Authors, but then we are good to go. To have your project considered for some of the AMAZING PRIZES just publish your Instructable that includes an Intel Edison between 8/31 and 10/26 and add it to the Intel IoT Invitational Contest Page. With all of our logistics and shipping pretty much wrapped, we are finally getting to review all the project ideas from people who already have Edisons and Galileos submit - you will soon get an email from myself, or Penolopy Bulnick (who is coming back to Instructables to help with future giveaways like this!), approving your idea. I have to say, I am so proud to be apart of such a wonderful community that has been understanding of our delays, and collaborative in helping one another troubleshoot their projects. I can't wait to see what everyone is going to make :) Beaming! -Audrey _________ Here at Instructables, we’re so excited to have a continued partnership with the Intel® IoT Developer Program to celebrate the bright ideas that the Instructables.com community has come up with for the Intel® Edison platform. We’ve been sharing some of the best IoT stories on our site, and are astounded by the growth and creativity blossoming from the Intel Edison Ecosystem. To further encourage great IoT projects being shared to Instructables, we are offering even more Intel® Edison Boards and Intel® IoT Developer Kits to you! We believe in your awesome creative potential, and your devotion to share what you make and learn with other makers and tinkerers. Furthermore, we are so excited to announce the Intel® IoT Invitational!  Intel IoT Projects published from June 8 - August 7, 2015 will be considered to win a Canon 7D mk ii, a Sony Action Cam, an Oscillisoscope, a Sparkfun Giftcard, a Shapeways Giftcard, and More!! WE ARE SEEDING THE INSTRUCTABLES COMMUNITY 300 INTEL® EDISON BOARDS and SPECIALTY INTEL® IoT DEVELOPMENT KITS.  We want to hear what you want to make with the Intel Edison Board. If we like your idea, we will send you a kit! Keep in mind, the kits we are creating during this Invitational differ from the commercially available Grove Starter Kits. It will likely take additional components and ingenuity to make great IoT projects for the Intel IoT Invitational. These are the kits and bundles we are making: Home Automation Kit This kit is designed with home automation and safety in mind. There are 9 sensors in the kit that can detect things like moisture, temperature, flames and gases. There’s also a speaker to sound alerts and a relay to turn something on or off. This kit could easily be extended with additional sensors for the ultimate home automation or safety sensor array. Included in this kit: Grove Air quality sensor Grove Encoder Grove Flame Sensor Grove Gas Sensor(MQ2) Grove Infrared Temperature Sensor Grove Moisture Sensor Grove SPDT Relay(30A) Grove Speaker   Environmental & Agriculture This kit is designed with agriculture in mind.  The 7 sensors in this kit can help you determine light, UV and dust in the environment and based on that information one could rinse a plant off with the water pump and/or water the plant and not waste any water because a flow sensor is included. There is an LED bar for visual output and a dry reed relay to turn things on and off. Included in this Kit: 6V Mini Water Pump G14 Water Flow Sensor Grove Digital Light Sensor Grove Dry-Reed Relay Grove Dust Sensor Grove Gas Sensor(MQ5) Grove LED Bar Grove Moisture Sensor Grove UV Sensor Grove Water Sensor Transportation and Safety This kit is designed with vehicle safety in mind. These 6 sensors can help you keep from getting lost, tell you if you have pulled forward far enough in the garage and even keep your garage from accidentally closing on you. In addition there is an alcohol sensor to determine if you have had too much fun. Included in this Kit: Grove Alcohol Sensor Grove GPS Grove I2C Touch Sensor Grove Infrared Reflective Sensor Grove IR Distance Interrupter Grove PIR Motion Sensor Robotics Create the next robot overlord or at the very least a cool vehicle. This kit has 2 motor drivers and 4 planet geared motors—you supply a chassis.  There are also a few items to determine distance and track a line.  This kit will likely require the most additional items from the maker, but it also provides some useful pieces to get started exploring robotics. Have other ideas—maybe a quad-copter we are eager to see what you create! Included in this Kit: Grove 3-Axis Digital Compass Grove Hall Sensor Grove I2C Motor Driver Grove IR Distance Interrupter Grove Line Finder Grove MOSFET Grove Nunchuck Grove Single Axis Analog Gyro Grove Thumb Joystick Grove Voltage Divider Planet Geared Motor F280 By no means are you limited to just using the parts in these kits, they are just meant to help you get started. Add more sensors, components, and hardware to make the IoT machines of your dreams! This product offering is limited to 300 people who state their case as to why we should send them a board and development kit. USE THIS FORM TO APPLY TO THIS PRODUCT OFFERING This application will close May 25, 2015. ____ Already have an Intel® Edison board from our last promotion? Recently participated in an Intel® IoT Roadshow? Or did you buy your own Intel® Edison kit? You can participate without receiving a board from us, sign up here!   This application will close July 20, 2015. This application will guarantee you a spot in the Intel IoT Invitational. ____ Ready to get started with the Intel® IoT Invitational? Be sure to check out the Intel® XDK IoT Edition as a resource. This will help you create, test and deliver awesome IoT solutions.

Topic by audreyobscura   |  last reply