Any ideas on an in-ear white noise device to help stutterers/stammerers?

Hi, This is my first post. I don't know much about this kind of tech but am eager to learn.  I want to build a hidden/discrete wireless earpiece which can play a short burst of white noise (1-2 seconds) when a button is pressed (see below for an explanation of why on earth I want to do this). The button would need to be able to trigger the white noise from a range of around 1 metre so that the controller can be kept in my trouser pocket. There are earpieces around which play white noise (to help people sleep in noisy environments) but I want to be able to control whether or not the white noise is playing. I thought about using a wireless earpiece (e.g.) with bluetooth, however it seems like the maximum range for this would be around 40cm. Anyone know of alternatives?  WHY WOULD I WANT TO?! Individuals who stutter/stammer often experience blocks. It's not that you'll hear them repeating sounds or anything - their speech just totally freezes up. For reasons which aren't entirely clear, listening to white noise can help stutters who block to start talking. White noise can be played before trying to speak, disrupting our auditory feedback - resulting in less blocks. Some devices have made use of this, e.g. Edinburgh Masker (http://www.mnsu.edu/comdis/kuster/edinburghmasker.html), but were ugly, bulky and didn't allow you to manually control when the white noise was playing. Other devices, like SpeechEasy make use of Delayed Auditory Feedback (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_fluency_device#Delayed_auditory_feedback) - which can help some people but is of no use if you aren't already making some kind of noise. Is this impossible?  Many thanks for anyone with ideas on this! Cheers Oli

Topic by ocheadle   |  last reply


media player playback is stuttering, missing out small pieces of music?

I am running Vista on a dell inspiron laptop and have music playing on WMP latest version uptodate music is stuttering and skipping not smooth  choppy, this happens with all sources live cd or stored files. Iv tried everything and need advice if possible.

Question by morgie   |  last reply


how to fix permanently unstable and stutter LEDs strip 2812b in my Arduino ambilight project?

Why after several weeks with my LED strip (2812b) some LEDs tends to stuck or stutter and with them the rest of the strip (up the din stream)? This mostly happens under white light. And after several weeks of use.  It seems like I never can enjoy them without worries of led slaving... You replace the cultprit enjoy some time and than the problems starts again. Also whenever I open the strip I put ambibox options on colors dynamics than they stutter for awhile until they warmup. then I switch the option on ambibox to screen capture for the rest of use, where under white light they stutter again( I guess white withdraw the max current and this cause the din line to "crash") i have the wires, resistor and cap connected appropriately following the tutorials online.  The V shows around 4.7 and the power connected to two places as I use 160 LEDs with 5V 10A PS.  hope someone can help thanks for your time

Question by TalT4   |  last reply


Help!!!

Ok my project involves 4 LED's in parallel connected to 3 AAA batteries in series. Individual LED's keep stuttering and then finally going out after a few minutes. Is this a problem with the power source? Or are my LED's just bad?

Topic by pmac93   |  last reply


Why can't I rap fast anymore? Answered

I used to be really fast and legible, around last year/beginning of this year but now when i rap i start stuttering my words. Why?

Question by Yerboogieman   |  last reply


Determining speech rate from audio

Hi, my name's Oli and I am a speech therapist - aka speech pathologist in US. I am looking for a way (e.g. an app) that can determine how fast someone is speaking, in realtime. This kind of biofeedback would be really useful for many people with communication disorders where learning to speak slower can help a lot (e.g. stuttering, dysarthria). I can also see it being useful for teaching public speaking to students etc.  Does anyone know of anything out there (hardware or app) that can do this? Or where I might find someone I could pay to develop this app?  Many thanks, Oli

Topic by ocheadle   |  last reply


if one of the supply wires to a hall sensor is seperated , Will it imitate the symptoms of a damaged Hall sensor?

Power supply wires to my hub motor damaged due to spinning,  motor does'nt start from standstill. when it starts it works in a stuttering manner.  When allowed to run without load it runs without hesitation.  I read that this is one of the systoms of a failed hall sensor Doogg1

Question by doogg1   |  last reply


555 timer and servo help? Answered

Hello, I just finished building this instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Most-Useless-Machine/step6/Original-Design-Using-555-Timer/ However, I have run into a couple of problems with the 555 timer and the servo. As suggested by someone in the comments section of that instructable, when the server turns on it is consuming enough current to drop the voltage enough to mess with the 555 timer's PWM output (I do not have an oscilloscope, so I can't really prove this). Whenever the servo starts, it works properly for a couple of seconds, then it starts acting very strange, stuttering, going the wrong direction, ect... I'm thinking if I add a capacitor the the power source, it will help stabilize the voltage, but i'm not sure if this will work. Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Circuit is running at 6v (4AA cells) Servo runs at minimum 4.8v to max 7.2v

Question by psp3601   |  last reply


My mower smoked and won't run? Answered

I was mowing with my push mower (brigs and Stratton) and suddenly it blew out a large amount of white smoke and stuttered to a stop.  Later that day I tried starting it again and it almost started up but it sputtered and filled the area with a plume of white smoke.  Now (a year later) I decided to attempt to get it running again.  I am not sure about taking out the spark plug because I think it may need a torc wrench or something.  I did however check to see if it would still spark one of my spare plugs which it does.  The fuel in it is still the same so I may try draining it and re-filling it.  It smells like gas.  I have heard of water and oil being probable causes, could this be true.  I know that it has mistakenly been filled with the mix of oil/fuel from my chainsaw's can.  I drained it, but could there still be oil in it or something.  Can I pull my spark-plug out with a mere crescent wrench and replace it?

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


I need help coding an arduino sketch to activate audio from an mp3 board when my PIR senses motion

My goal is to have a sound effect play when a person first walks into the field of view of my PIR. So far I can get it to work, but the sound "stutters" for about 4 seconds before it will play through all the way. The parts that I am using are:  https://www.parallax.com/product/555-28027 http://www.mdfly.com/products/microsd-tf-card-mp3-wav-player-module-ttl.html (this board doesn't have a datasheet, so i have been using the 'old version' datasheet: http://mdfly.net/Download/Module/AU5016.pdf ) and an arduino uno besides vcc and ground, my arduino's pins connect pin7 to my mp3 board's number 1 pin (which is active low) and also from my arduino's pin3 to the out/signal from my PIR sensor. I have tried a couple different example sketches and modified them to something that i thought would work, but they both have similar problems with "stuttering". Below are the sketches after modification. (note: I haven't finished changing some of the commenting yet.) I would be very thankful for any and all help. I can admit, I'm not very good at this kind of thing. This project is for halloween in 2016. I'm so bad (and I realize it) that I'm starting a year in advance. FIRST SKETCH: // Uses a PIR sensor to detect movement, buzzes a buzzer // more info here: http://blog.makezine.com/projects/pir-sensor-arduino-alarm/ // email me, John Park, at jp@jpixl.net // based upon: // PIR sensor tester by Limor Fried of Adafruit // tone code by michael@thegrebs.com int MP3Song1Pin = 7;                // choose the pin for the mp3 board int inputPin = 3;               // choose the input pin (for PIR sensor) int pirState = LOW;             // we start, assuming no motion detected int val = 0;                    // variable for reading the pin status void setup() {   pinMode(MP3Song1Pin, OUTPUT);      // declare mp3 board as output   pinMode(inputPin, INPUT);     // declare sensor as input   Serial.begin(9600); } void loop(){   val = digitalRead(inputPin);  // read input value   if (val == HIGH) {            // check if the input is HIGH     digitalWrite(MP3Song1Pin, LOW);  // turn mp3 board on     delay(10);     digitalWrite(MP3Song1Pin, HIGH);  // turn mp3 board         if (pirState == LOW) {       // we have just turned on       Serial.println("Motion detected!");       // We only want to print on the output change, not state       pirState = HIGH;     }   } else {       digitalWrite(MP3Song1Pin, HIGH); // turn mp3 board OFF       if (pirState == HIGH){       // we have just turned off       Serial.println("Motion ended!");       // We only want to print on the output change, not state       pirState = LOW;     }   } } SECOND SKETCH: /* * ////////////////////////////////////////////////// * //making sense of the Parallax PIR sensor's output * ////////////////////////////////////////////////// * * Switches a LED according to the state of the sensors output pin. * Determines the beginning and end of continuous motion sequences. * * @author: Kristian Gohlke / krigoo (_) gmail (_) com / http://krx.at * @date:   3. September 2006 * * kr1 (cleft) 2006 * released under a creative commons "Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0" license * http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/de/ * * * The Parallax PIR Sensor is an easy to use digital infrared motion sensor module. * (http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=555-28027) * * The sensor's output pin goes to HIGH if motion is present. * However, even if motion is present it goes to LOW from time to time, * which might give the impression no motion is present. * This program deals with this issue by ignoring LOW-phases shorter than a given time, * assuming continuous motion is present during these phases. *  */ ///////////////////////////// //VARS //the time we give the sensor to calibrate (10-60 secs according to the datasheet) int calibrationTime = 30;        //the time when the sensor outputs a low impulse long unsigned int lowIn;         //the amount of milliseconds the sensor has to be low //before we assume all motion has stopped long unsigned int pause = 5000;  boolean lockLow = true; boolean takeLowTime;  int pirPin = 3;    //the digital pin connected to the PIR sensor's output int ledPin = 7; ///////////////////////////// //SETUP void setup(){   Serial.begin(9600);   pinMode(pirPin, INPUT);   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);   digitalWrite(pirPin, LOW);   //give the sensor some time to calibrate   Serial.print("calibrating sensor ");     for(int i = 0; i < calibrationTime; i++){       Serial.print(".");       delay(1000);       }     Serial.println(" done");     Serial.println("SENSOR ACTIVE");     delay(50);   } //////////////////////////// //LOOP void loop(){      if(digitalRead(pirPin) == HIGH){        digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);   //the led visualizes the sensors output pin state        delay(50);        digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);        if(lockLow){           //makes sure we wait for a transition to LOW before any further output is made:          lockLow = false;                     Serial.println("---");          Serial.print("motion detected at ");          Serial.print(millis()/1000);          Serial.println(" sec");          delay(50);          }                  takeLowTime = true;        }      if(digitalRead(pirPin) == LOW){              digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);  //the led visualizes the sensors output pin state        if(takeLowTime){         lowIn = millis();          //save the time of the transition from high to LOW         takeLowTime = false;       //make sure this is only done at the start of a LOW phase         }        //if the sensor is low for more than the given pause,        //we assume that no more motion is going to happen        if(!lockLow && millis() - lowIn > pause){             //makes sure this block of code is only executed again after            //a new motion sequence has been detected            lockLow = true;                                   Serial.print("motion ended at ");      //output            Serial.print((millis() - pause)/1000);            Serial.println(" sec");            delay(50);            }        }   }

Question by Zukibeast 


computer RAM upgrade stupid questions?

Well as it turns out, 8GB of RAM with Chrome and Kdenlive video editing software open at the same time causes Ubuntu to max out the RAM on my machine, and the machine will start to become very sluggish, eventually freezing for several minutes at a time with a high chance of never unfreezing. This used to be a very common issue that would occur with only google chrome open, due to a memory leak with my Gmail tabs. If I catch this sluggishness and eventually full system hang early enough, I can recover from it by entering CLI mode on ubuntu (alt+F1) and killing "chrome." After researching this problem a bit more, I created a swap file, since I do not have a SWAP partition, this helped delay the eventual unrecoverable system hang, but did not entirely fix the issue. I also tried different "swappiness" values, and also learned about this command "sudo sysctl -w vm.min_free_kbytes=400000" which supposedly forces a set amount of space to be unused in ubuntu. Looking at the system monitor this appears to do what it says, preventing a >95% RAM use, forcing swap to be used instead, and this was initially promising as it seemed to reduce the full system hangs, but created more small bugs, like freezing and stuttering wildly with buffered youtube videos, or playback in Kdenlive. A reboot seemed to have fixed that issue, but I'm not sure if those settings stuck around. ANYWAY; I guess there is no denying it, I simply do not have the RAM necessary for my workload anymore. I DO use intel HD integrated graphics, which uses the system RAM for graphics processing, so I wonder, will faster RAM allow slightly better graphics performance? My understanding is that GDDR is optimized for sheer bandwidth, not latency, while system DDRx RAM is optimized for latency. Does this mean my system will benefit more from high clock rate and high latency setting on a given RAM set, or is low clock and low latency RAM better? Most "gaming" orented builders seem to say RAM is not important other than esthetics and reliability. Also, is there a difference between buffered and unbuffered RAM?  Currently, the specs for my RAM are: Geil EVO Veloce GEV38GB1600C9DC 4GBx2 This RAM I got for "free" with my motherboard, and it seems to work with the following settings in the BIOS: . . .1600MHz @ 9-9-9-28 timings, 1.5V . . .1333MHz @ 9-9-9-24 timings, 1.5V . . .1800MHz @ 11-12-11-33 timings, 1.65V These are the fastest possible settings that will boot. Note, I was not too happy with the 1800MHz overclock, especially considering my computer was acting strange and crashed during an update, corrupting Ubuntu. I was able to repair the installation of some corrupted packages halfway installed. It did not seem to make any difference in some games on ubuntu, which is how I tested stability/speed. I have also had issues where while the BIOS system check passes, ubuntu puck errors all over me when I clocked at 1600MHz @ 9-9-9-24, even at 1.65V. There is really no overclocking this currently overpriced and mediocre RAM to any degree. The three settings above were the best settings I could get. The RAM I am currently looking at getting is: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-PC3-12800-240-Pin-BLS2K4G3D169DS1J/dp/B00ZRG009S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1452056996&sr;=1-1&keywords;=BLS2K4G3D169DS1J It is the most affordable, and states that it is 4GBx2 of 1600MHz 9-9-9-24 RAM. I think I can underclock it to match the speed of the rest of my RAM and I think it should work well alongside. What do you guys think? I do not want to have to buy the $67 16GB if I can help it.

Question by -max-   |  last reply


Tracking down the speed problems on a laptop.

I've copied the conversation here so we could remove the information from the original instructable's comments.  I figure this would also be of some interest to other forum viewers who may have similar problems, or may be able to chip in. The long and short of it is, 92033 (Ed) has a refurbished laptop that takes literal hours to run a YouTube video on.  I suspect that it's due to a bottleneck with his internet connection.  Here's the conversation thus far: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033 (Ed): Thank you kindly for your prompt reply...appreciate it very much. I came across this site by accident in searching for something else and now I'm 'hooked' on it. :) So far I've read over 400 archived posts (whew)...as well as looking at the videos. The videos are somewhat of a problem because this new laptop only has 512 mg memory...LOOOOOng time to load. For example...to watch a SLOW 5-minute You Tube video takes 5-1/2 HOURS to load...keeps showing a couple words at a time...need to get two new memory chips to upgrade to 2gb. Thanks again...Take care. ---------------------------------------------------------------- eddems: I think you're basic download speed is killing ya, not the laptop. check you're speed at Internetfrog.com, if you see the link near the bottom for the old test, run it, I like it's graph of upload and download speed much better. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much. I'll check it out. I ordered a 1gb SDRAM Memory chip which just arrived yesterday. Hope this speeds things up a bit. ---------------------------------------------------------------- harley_rly: i hear u man, my computer is hopped up, but i live out in the sticks and have dialup...i only get 24kbps at most :( ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Maybe there's hope for 'us' yet. :-) I phoned Tiger Direct to see cost of an upgrading memory chip to go from 512mg to 1-1/2gb. The guy I talked to suggested I get "PC TUNEUP 2.0" which bypasses the Windows Operating System (I'm using Windows XP Pro) and speeds up the system. I gave it a try and ordered the CD (cost $39.98 - $44.77 postpaid). It hasn't arrived yet but will let you know if it helps as he claims it will. He said that if I just ordered a 1gb memory chip my system wouldn't notice much improvement as it is, but this CD should do the trick. THEN...when I DO order the Memory chip(s) to get total of 2gb my system should zip through like a rocket with the CD just ordered. I'll let you know when I get the CD and about the results. Just hope I haven't thrown forty-five bucks to the wind. Thanks for the contact...appreciate hearing from you. TAKE CARE. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: PC Tune-Up "bypasses the Windows Operating System?" This guy fed you a load of crap. (I work on computers for a living.) PC Tune-Up does nothing more than clean up registries, defragment harddrives (if your OS even needs it, some don't) and keeps drivers up to date (which you could do manually.) That guy's an idiot, or just a liar. Could be both. Unless you were buying PC Tuneup 2.0 from Tiger Direct, in which case we can add "sleazy salesman" to that. What are the specs of the laptop? Go to Start/Run and type in DXDIAG. This will give you a quick snapshot of the specs. Specifically, I'm curious as to the processor speed/type. For a 5 1/2 hour "load" you're more likely looking at network slowdown issues (although 512 megs for XP is WAYYYY too little. I HATE when they put PCs together like that). The RAM upgrade will show significant speed increases, but no improvement with YouTube videos or other downloads. I'm glad to see you are returning the CD. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much for your input...appreciate it very much. I checked the DXDIAG as you recommended. Here's the info on it: IBM ThinPad Laptop PC. Model # 23738TU. Intel Premium M 1.70GHZ. 512mb SDRAM Memory chip.Page File- 351mb used,513 mb available. Direct Version-Directx 9.00 (4.09.0000.0904). 512 mb SDRAM-Actual 212 Ram. AVAST Anti-Virus. MS Windows XP-PRO.. Dialup Speed-40kbps. PC2700 SDRAM 512mb Memory Chip installed. I ordered 1bb memory chip which arrived yesterday. Now I have to figure out HOW to remove the bottom of this laptop to install it...lotta small screws on it. :-) Oh, total memory shows 32mb. I don't know if this means much to you. I note your comment that the added RAM memory WONT (?) speed up loading YouTube videos? Is that correct? If so, why not? Thanks again. Take care. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: :) At the risk of boring too many people, here's how memory in a PC works: You have two kinds of memory: RAM, and Hard Drive (technically there's three, as there's also onboard video RAM on video cards, but this is primarily used for 3D video game textures, so can be mostly ignored.) Your harddrive's read/write speed is determined by the type of harddrive it is (most are SATA now) and the rotation speed (most are 7200 RPM, though the specs for your system say yours is only 5400 RPM, but there are 10, 15, and even 20K rpm models out there that are exponentially more expensive.) No matter what, harddrive memory will always be degrees slower than RAM. RAM on the other hand is a small chunk of memory that is "temporary" memory, but very fast. Its speed is determined by the type of RAM (DDR2 being the current common one for notebooks, though DDR3 is available with some motherboards (you can ignore this, though, as you can only handle 2 gigs max of DDR with your system). The motherboard will determine the limits for the RAM that can be installed.) When running *ANYTHING* on your computer, and I mean ANYTHING, it must first be loaded into RAM to be accessed by the CPU. The computer doesn't directly access the harddrive. So this means when your operating system is loaded (Windows XP) the entirety of all running processes for the OS have to be loaded into RAM. Now, Microsoft claims that Windows XP only requires a minimum of 64 megs of RAM, but recommends 128 megs. I challenge you to find me a Windows XP system that only uses 128 megs out of the box. It's not atypical for an XP system to chew through all 512 megs of your RAM, leaving no RAM available for other applications. (Interestingly, the default setup for your laptop is only 256 megs of RAM, yet yours is reporting 512.) What happens when there's no RAM left? The system has to then start trading things into what is called "Virtual Memory." VM is nothing more than a file on the harddrive that will temporarily hold information that SHOULD be in RAM, so the RAM can load more info. For instance, say you have a process that's using RAM, but you want to watch your YouTube video. As the video is ready to play, the system will take the other process's data that's in RAM, write it to the harddrive, load your video into RAM in its place, play a portion of it, write the video to the harddrive, load the data for the process to RAM, let it run for a split second (so it doesn't lock up), write it back to the harddrive, load your video into RAM and play a short clip, etc. etc. etc. The result of low RAM on your system is that applications will open slowly (seconds or minutes, instead of instantly or a few seconds) and they will seem slow to respond, will stutter, etc. With enough RAM, your system can freely open as much as it needs into RAM, and ignore the virtual memory and all the slowdowns that it causes. Now, all of this being said, NO lack of RAM will cause a streaming video to take 5 1/2 hours to play. This is 100% going to be related to your downspeed. (Go to www.speedtest.net and post your results.) RAM slowdowns tend to be most noticeable when shutting down, or starting up your computer, apps will open a little more slowly, they will be slower to respond to button clicks, and video will be very choppy. Anything that is causing a YouTube video to take HOURS will be due to the system simply waiting to get the video in the first place. RAM wouldn't slow down the receiving of the video, but it would cause the video to play weird once it's downloaded. So, all this being said, here's the summary: Your system has a 1.7 Ghz processor, and your RAM is most likely 333 Mhz DDR. If you bump your memory up to a gig, you should see a pretty significant improvement in that your computer will, overall, just "feel" faster. It'll be more responsive, and working with large documents will be many, many times faster. This won't, however, affect your YouTube experience (unless you were getting jittery video often, not the same as "buffering" video.) If you see "buffering" for a long time, your internet connection is your bottleneck. A test on www.SpeedTest.net will likely confirm this. However, if you get decent numbers on SpeedTest, then we could have something more sinister going on, though I suspect you'll find your numbers well below the 1 mbps rate. This brings us to actually changing the RAM. I've been out of the PC hardware realm (professional programmer now) for a few years, and was unable to find a manual for your particular model. However, if memory serves, this image should be a fairly accurate representation of the underside of your system: http://www.javin-inc.com/temp/thinkpad.JPG Don't quote me, but I BELIEVE the red circle will indicate the only screw you will need to remove to access the RAM. There should also be a small clip holding the RAM in place that you'll want to pinch to get the RAM out, and make sure that the new RAM snaps into place. (Sometimes you'll have additional empty RAM beds, and you can just put your RAM in there and end up with 1.5 gigs, but I suspect you'll have two 256 gig chips in there.) ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Phew. Thanks again for your most indepth educational lesson. I appreciate all your help more than you realize. I attempted to answer this last night, typing in more than twice the amount of text as your to me, then suddenly realized there was a glitch and I was on another page...lost it all into the ionisphere. :-( Rather than try to retype all I wrote, I shut 'r down and went to sleep. Now I'm trying to recall all I wrote last night but failed to get mailed. I'm not a traditional typist, rather a one-finger bloke so you can understand the frustration there. I do, however, type at a reasonably good speed. With that said, let's continue. I went to search for Configuration of this IBM Laptop ThinkPad 23738TU and am copy and pasting it here. It's relevant to what I have to say...here it is: ********************************************************************************** Overview Specs Features Includes Warranty Supplies IBM ThinkPad T42 2373 Specifications Part # 23738TU Key Specifications IBM ThinkPAD T42 2373 Manufacturer IBM Manufacturer Part # 23738TU Processor Type Intel Pentium M 735 1.7 GHz Data Bus Speed 400 MHz Cache Memory Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB RAM Installed Size 256 MB Technology DDR SDRAM Memory Speed 333 MHz System Type Notebook Storage Hard Drive 40 GB, 5400 rpm Storage Controller Type IDE Optical Storage Type DVD ROM Read Speed 24x (CD) / 8x (DVD) Display Type 14.1" TFT active matrix Graphics Processor / Vendor ATI MOBILITY RADEON 7500 Video Memory 32 MB Max. Resolution 1024 x 768 Audio Output Type Sound card Audio Codec AD1981B Compliant Standards DirectSound, AC '97, SoundMAX Telecom Modem Fax / modem Max. Transfer Rate 56 Kbps Protocols & Specifications ITU V.90 Networking Networking Network adapter Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet Expansion Expansion Slots Total 1 x front accessible Expansion Slots Total 2 ( 1 ) x memory 1 ( 1 ) x CardBus - type II Interfaces 1 x docking / port replicator, 240 pin docking 2 x Hi Speed USB, 4 pin USB Type A 1 x parallel, IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP), 25 pin D Sub (DB25) 1 x display / video, VGA, 15 pin HD D Sub (HD 15) 1 x infrared, IrDA 1 x modem, phone line, RJ11 1 x network, Ethernet 10BaseT/100BaseTX, RJ45 1 x display / video, S video output, 4 pin mini DIN 1 x microphone, input, mini phone mono 3.5 mm 1 x headphones, output, mini phone stereo 3.5 mm Miscellaneous Features Locking device keyhole (cable lock), administrator password, hard drive password, power-on password, asset ID, IBM Embedded Security Subsystem 2.0 Compliant Standards ACPI 2.0, ACPI 1.0b, FCC Class B certified, CE, MPR II, UL, BSMI, cUL, NOM, VCCI-II Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Software Included Adobe Acrobat Reader, PC Doctor, IBM Rapid Restore Ultra, IBM Update Connector, InterVideo WinDVD, IBM Access Connections, IBM Access Support, Access IBM,(OEM) Battery Technology lithium ion Capacity 4400 mAh Average Run Time 5 hour(s) Installed Qty 1 Ambient Temperature Min Operating Temperature 50 °F Max Operating Temperature 90 °F Humidity Range Operating 8 - 80% Dimensions (W x D x H) Unit 12.2 in x 10 in x 1.1 in Weight Unit 4.9 lbs Warranty 3 Years Limited Warranty on parts and labor. IBM 23738TU Summary ********************************************************************************* NOTE...I DON'T BELIEVE THIS...I JUST TYPED FORTY MINUTES REPLY HERE and it instantly scrolled up like speed of lightning and disappeared like last night. I'll ATTEMP to try again later. So please don't reply yet as you need to read my discoveries in changing the RAM chip. Meanwhile, thanks again...take care. ~ ED ******************************************************************************* TRY #3...I'm Back :-) Your diagram showing where the RAM chip is located was right on. Thanks. Here's my DISCOVERY :-( The RAM chip installed was NOT a 512mg...but only a 256mg chip. The ads ans specs say it's a 512mg...NOT SO. I was lied to by either the manufacturer or refurbishing company who removed the original 512 chip and reinstalled a 256 chip. I was lied to by the Tiger Direct guy on the phone. There are NOT two chip slots...only one. So I now have a useless removed 256mb RAM chip. Replaced with the 1gb RAM chip I just installed. So instead of having 1-1/2 gb RAM, I only have 1gb. Here's the crux. To. go to 2gb RAM I'd need to buy a full 2gb RAM CHIP and discard the 1gb for which I just paid $39.99 ($45.00 with s/h). This means another output of almost a hundred dollars plus the $45.00 just wasted because they wont accept return once the sealed chip plastic was opened...even though I had no idea there was only ONE SLOT in this PC instead of TWO like the Tiger Guy said. Now...crux #2...this new 1gb RAM does nothing more to increase speed. I just watched a 2.01 MINUTE YouTube video which took a HALF HOUR to load, so I threw the money away for nothing, eh? There is no noticeable change except the 'speed' shows it now as 41.2 kbps instead of 40 kbps. Okay...now HOW do I get to speed this thing up to normal viewing in real time? I also saw an ad for 4bg RAM Gateway laptop with 120gb hard drive for $404.99 which is all suped-up with everything. I had to upgrade a LOT since I got this only four months ago...taking over a hundred hours to load it, like Internet Explorer 5 to 6 and then to 8 and now to 9. I'm using AVAST Anti-Virus, after trying for 23 hours to get ADVAR, then find out it didn't load because of problem on the servor's end. Added Firefox and upgraded twice. Loaded MS Protection but it created more problems so I deleted it...now with AVAST which I like. Soooo...I've literally spent over 200 hours to get this thng where it's at now, plus the wasted money for the upgraded RAM chip.and I still don't have increased speed. HOW do I get it? IF the processor has to be changed does this mean I have to gut the thing and install a new motherboard? If so, what kind of money cost are we talking here? I bought this four months ago as a refurbished unit only because I was able to get it on payments of only $25.00 a month. If I had to wait to get $400.00 cash I'd never have it. :-) Okay...that's it for the moment. Thanks much again for your help offering and detailed instructions...appreciate it more than you realize. Best Wishes And God's Blessings To You And Yours In Everything Always. Most Respectfully... ~ ED  ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: Well, let's start with the RAM. If you're running windows XP, you can assume all the extra processes (virus scanners, and whatnot) will be eating up about 512 megs of the RAM. First thing to do is check DXDIAG again (start/run) and verify that it's now reporting the correct amount of RAM. (Don't be surprised if it's like 9 hundred something megs or slightly more. It won't report 1024 or 1 gig.) This being said, that will leave you with the other 512 for your applications. This box won't be running the latest and greatest 3D games, but I suspect it was never intended to. If the heaviest hitter you'll have running is along the lines of photoshop, the 1 gig of RAM you have now should be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't worry about getting 2 gigs. Not for this rig, anyway. Also, Avast is a great (and free) virus protection, every bit as good as Symantec's Norton, so good choice there. If your youtube videos are choking out, we need to start by verifying that it's an actual speed throttling problem. Go to www.SpeedTest.net and run the speed test. Come back with the results.

Topic by Javin007   |  last reply