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I HAVE TO MAKE UP A THING FOR SCHOOL FOR BASICALLY A MINIATURE  PAPER TOWEL DISPENSER. ITS GOING TO BE USED FOR TOILET TISSUE AND I HAVE NO IDEA ON WHAT TO DO. IVE DONE RESEARCH AND FOUND A MOTION SENSOR I COULD USE BUT THATS ABOUT IT. I DONT KNOW ANYTHING ON THIS SUBJECT SO IF ANYONE COULD POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION THAT WOULD BE GREAT. I JUST BASICALLY NEED TO KNOW PARTS AND COST... 

I have bought a brand new TP-link wireless router but i hav got problems in configuring it, after a long conversation with the technical support from the company i could not fix my problem, some pls help me to fix the problem!!? i'm from india i use a Broadband connection provided my BSNL(ISP name) i use dynamic ip, i connect the cable directly to my computer and use internet, it is a cable modem which i use, and i can access the router via192.168.1.1

Hi.... I've been following the instructable about wireless tethering using the TP-Link MR3040 portable router (https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-tethered-shooting-with-any-DSLR-camera-V3/) This is great and works very well. My problem is that the router in the instructable is now obsolete in the UK so I was wondering if anyone knows if the TP-Link MR3020 can be flashed with the same firmware? If not are there any other compatible portable routers on the market. I understand the firmware is based upon the OpenWRT firmware but that the author has added some additional scripts, if I can't find a suitable replacement router does anyone know what additional scrips have been added and if it's possible to add them to the OpenWRT 3020 firmware. Many thanks for any help.

I have a few military headsets (MSA Sordin type 75311).  These headsets come with a TP 120 plug that goes into various vehicle systems.  Ideally what I'm looking for is how to make a converter to convert these TP plugs to a mini 3.5 mm jack.  I've seen such a converter on Ebay so I know its possible.

They are from school. someone was going to throw them away. they are now in my bedroom

Hi, So basically we have a Netgear DGN1000 router as our main router and wireless access point although from where my PC is I can't get a very strong signal to the router or the connected airport. I recently picked up a TP-Link TL-WR1043ND router to connect wirelessly to the Netgear router so I will be able to connect LAN cables to a switch, then to the TP-Link. There is a bridging system on the TP-Link router configuration although I don't think it's the type of bridging I'm looking for. Any help will be appreciated, cheers,  -Will

Hi, i cannot connect my laptop to a specific connection what should i do,i have tried setting DNS severs, ipconfig and all but still cannot. please help me out of this..

I need to lern how tp run a sound mixer

Edit: The solution for the MT with the Bosch CF650-7 ECU is suprisingly simple.I managed to get the intended poer without the requirement to flash the ECU.You can find the steps I took over at D.I.Y Forums.When it comes to motorcycles with restrictions then Australia seems to be pretty much alone in the world.Despite an abundance of bike to choose from that would fit weight/power limitations it seems to be common to go overboard here.As a result basically all popular motorbikes up the 650ccm hit the AU market in a restricted form if they don't match the limitations by default.For someone in the US just reading this might sounds like a useless concept to get people to learn how to ride a motorcycle.As a fully licensed rider and being on a budget a bike for just over half the price of a Japanase model is still tempting.And for general touring use the MT is actually quite a comfortable bike.Big downside is the impossiblity to get certain bikes in an unrestricted form.For the Cfmoto's of the older type, running the Ducati ECU it is as simple as adding a suitable fuel/ignition tuner module and removing the physical restrictions.The newer models from 2017 onwards use a more reliable Bosch ECU though.With them it is appearently possible to use BWM tuning module but with the requirement to do a full remap on a Dyno.The 2018 MT is my bike, so I will focus on this, but the gerneral things are identical on all the Cfmoto 650 models.A word on the legal things first....Outside AU none of this concerns you as your Cfmoto will come unrestricted anyways.Within AU however we are subject to several laws that make the legal modification of a so called LAMS motorcycle virtually impossible.You can even put a different exhaust or airfilter on them without risking to loose your license and get some hefty fines.As a fully licensed rider however the law often turns a blind eye on these things as they don't really matter as long as they won't affect the safety of the bike, rider or other road users.With the plated riders out for now, let's focus on the options for a fully licensed rider, shall we?There is no need for a RWC or anything if you already owned the bike in the LAMS version.But if you try, for example, to go to Vicroads and have the registration details changed to reflect that the bike is now running with it's full factory default power, or a bit more you are lost.Two reasons for this.Firstly Cfmoto did not bother to import and register for road use any unrestricted version of the 650's.Secondly the VIN number and engine number are fixed in a database for LAMS only bikes.You would need a full engeneering certificate to register the bike in any modified version that affects the power output or reduces the weight of the bike.Sets you back about 10.000 dollars and still won't garantee that Vicroads actually transform it into a legal, unrestricted bike.The police has little to no interest in what a fully licensed rider does to a bike - within the usual limits of course.And since you would not sell the bike without fully reverting it back to the LAMS state the risk of prosecution can be fully minimised:If your insurer agrees to provide full comprehensive cover once the bike is (properly) reverted to what the international models are it is down to serious accidents that might still cause trouble.For example when you cause severe injuries to someone else the bike would be checked for modifications that could have had an influence on the accident.My insurer explained it like this:If the bike is checked roadworthyness after an accident it would fail because it is no longer LAMS compliant.That would automatically default the rider to be responsible for the accident even if not at fault at all.With that it is mandatory to have all the details about the modifications listed and validated in the insurance policy!Adding a tuning module for example would mean providing a fully Dyno chart with a safety confirmation from a licensed vehicle tester.For example the confirmation would state that a power Commander with Auto Tune module was installed together with a slip on exhaust system.Bike specifications allow for the save use with said modifications based on the results of the Dyno runs.With that the rider is put back into legal territory as the insurer stands for the roadworthyness of the modifications.It certainly helps to just stick with the default options and to provide the Cfmoto cert copy from the same international version of the bike.A plated rider should never attempt any of this as it still means there is no way to get away - legally and financially!Possible tuning options for the LAMS versions:Adding one the usualy tuning modules is not only pain but also costly if done properly.Being a LAMS bike you will have a hard finding a reputable shop to install a tuning module for you.Doing it yourself can be tricky, especially if you consider that the default wire colors are often different on the bike.Takes a few hours to check the wiring diagram, follow and measure connections and then to finally risk starting the bike....It works though if you know what you doing.Biggest downside is that you won't find any ready to go maps that you can use.And trust me trying to modify fuel or ignition maps yourself is not for the faint of heart and only an option if you a) know what you are doing and b) have the tools for it.There is a good chance the bike actually runs worse than without the module.Now the obvious solution would be to go for some Dyno runs and to have it all setup properly.Again, with a LAMS bike you will have a hard time finding a licensed and reputable shop to take your bike in.If you find one that does it anyway than it really is best to go for the full package and to suck the costs up.Let them supply the required modules, sensors and all, deal with the airbox and throttle limiter.Then have the usual 3-4 Dyno runs to get the mapping done properly.This approached worked perfectly fine for the older bikes using the Ducati ECU.The new models with the Bosch ECU might still struggle to accept the tuning changes.Reason for this is the checking of literally all sensor informations.Means the tuning module must cater for this and not just fool the O2 and TPS sensor readings.Just removing the throttle limiter and airbox restrictions will cause the bike to run too hot very quickly and also puts your ECU into a lean default mode once you see ECU errors flashing on the dash.Real tuning options that won't have a chance to harm the engine:With all models available internationally and without any restrictions it is relatively easy to find a wrecker in the US, EU or even Asia to supply parts from crashed bikes or those confiscated for destruction by dismantling them.If you are a fully licensed rider and after a bargain or love your first bike so much that you want to keep it once the plates are gone:Organise the ECU, airbox and throttle body from any part of the world except Australia.Sometimes you even find them on Ebay so pay attention to the sellers home country (some AU sellers go international and would then just get the same what is already in your bike ;) )!!Why not just the ECU you ask?Our airbox has added restrictors, just removing is not the best option as they are also responsible for causing required turbulences in the airflow.A straight through or even pot filter option would again require ECU tuning.As said, talking stock here...The throttle body might not be required to get the full power the bike is intended for but you never know for sure.If in doubt pay a few bucks more and have the injectors and sensors included as well ;)But why would I want to pay for a throttle body if it is not 100% certain I would require it?It would'n t have the screw hole for the throttle limiter ;)This tiny detail can be of importance if you go the full lenght, more on that later.With those three components (or two if you want to go without the throttle body) you have a stock international version of the 650.Makes it relatively easy to convince your insurer that the bike is safe to use in this configuration.Adding just a slip on is no problem either as the normal ECU runs quite rich in the higher RPM's anyway and the new exhaust would not make too much mess here.But adding a less restrictive airfilter will need Dyno tuning.Going the full length, especially interesting if you buy a second hand Cfmoto.It will take you a lot of Emails and some overseas phone calls but it is possible to find a wrecker that can sell you the registration plates for the frame of the bike - legally if said wrecker is allowed to sell frame number for rebuilds.Adding this plate to your order means your second hand bike can be deregistered, sadly this means unless you pay extra you need to hand in the numberplates as well.No big deal however if the bike comes without numberplates anyway.Once you installed all parts and replaced the frame ID plate you take the bike for normal RWC check and get your green slip.With that you go and ask to register your bike with new (or your old) numberplates.The Vin will not show up in their database and a red flag comes up, prompting some questions from the offcial behind the counter.The bike you know have is an imported model you got for cheap when you saw it for sale in some carpark with a blown engine.As the actual engines are identical you replaced the blown engine with one from an AU bike that crashed and was written off.In return you now pay a slightly higher than usual transfer fee but get the bike registered as he international model without LAMS restrictions.Even the engine showing up as a LAMS engine is of no concers here as there is no legal reason to not allow the use of a lower powered engine in a motorcycle.You insurance polcy will also go up a few bucks but that is not really worth crying about now anymore.Once you go out with your numberplates you can enjoy a legally derestricted (imported) Cfmoto.Ok, I got it an I say I am a fully licences rider that does not care too much and wants to go as cheap as possible...A brand new ECU from China sets you back about $400AU.Downside is that you are never 100% certain the mapping will fit what is installed on your bike.There might be differences for the US or EU market, not so much though for Asia - so ask for what market region the ECU is intendet and prefer the Asia market here.The airbox limiters should be safe to remove but you might have to make simple plates up to install so the air turbulences are within specs - you will notice if the bike runs really crappy in the high revs and struggles to provide power to the wheel...Unless Cfmoto actually include more limitations in or around the throttle body going with stock should be fine - flashing ECU error will tell you if not.Postage from China can be a pain, not so much for time it takes but for the money charged to use proper and trusted courier services.Up to $100 just for postage is not uncommon but also means the parts are your within a week or 10 days most.Some provide cheap flat rates but both have the risk of being asked to pay import duties if held by AU costoms.Going second hand from some wrecker outside AU can be slightly cheaper for the ECU but again postage can a pain on the pocket.The obvious downside is that the bike with such a simple and direct mod would be still a LAMS bike and if checked make it illegal to use with all the corresponding consequences for the rider - even if fully licensed, please check the above insurance part again if you must.If done properly and maybe even with a slip on: what gains are we talking about in actual figures on the wheel?To be honest not really that much at all, the bike is just too heavy.But the response will improve noticable!The bike pulls out of corners with ease now and no longer requires you shift through the gears with a screaming engine.Imagine you have a small, 4-cylinder car and went on a long holiday trip with your heavy camping trailer always attached.Holidays are over, you unhook the camper and go for a quick run to the shops for supplies.It is that wow feeling that you get when you take off with the weight gone...The gears run higher with a more evenly distributed power instead of just a narrow window of RPM's with enough power to pull away.The KW and RPM values are available on the Cfmoto homepages.What about top speed?I managed to get to a full 110km/h !! ;)For anything above that ask your local Dyno please or pay for a day on the track.What if the police gets me and makes trouble because of the modifications?A well trained officer in a bad mood will always be your nightmare.So I won't go into the troubles if you still need plates or just got your full license a few days ago...You are allowed to ride any road legal motorcycle, no matter the power ratings.However, a really pesky cop wanting to go by the full book on you will use the computer to check your bike and registration details.And if he knows the most obvious non-legal mods to LAMS bikes, like the shiny exhaust you will need a lift home.Chances are though that a clean driving record and having your full license for a few years indicates that you actually know how to handle your bike properly.That is the point where your honesty and details with the insurance company matter.Preferably with you having a copy of your policy with you when riding the bike.With that you can always argue the modifications are documented and approved by your insurer and corresponding vehicle tester.Makes it then only a minor offence for not being LAMS conform.The paperwork to fight you on what your insurer singed off for is just not worth it with a possible drunk driver getting past while you argue....Legally they can still book you or even take the bike but do they ever bother to take those Harleys or street racers with screaming exhausts you hear from miles away before you even see the bike? ;)As said, it comes down to a LAMS offense that is fully covered by your insurer and with that not really worth making a big fuzz about.If you got pulled over for speeding or other offenses the story will be different though as it then could be argued you made these modifications with the INTENT of illegal activities - like speeding or pulling stunts that are not allowed on public roads.Here you insurer can refuse the cover the same way they would for the same offences on a fully legally unrestricted bike.Is it worth taking the risk?No, it is not!If you are after a bike with good handling and power you would not ride a Cfmoto...As a true LAMS bike the resale value is actually quite good if the bike is kept in good condition.Modified you will have a hard time selling it as no learner would take the risk - a working brain assumed here.For a keeper once fully licensed or someone on a budget it can be quite tempting.After all, it leaves a nagging feeling if have a full license and sit on a restricted bike....You always have to explain what you ride and why anyway every time you pull over where chatty bikers are around.Selling the bike in good condition and maybe together with the extras you got over the years might be enough to justify the extra for a second hand bike from Asia, Italy or Austria and give you more leasure and pleasure in the long run.Doing it properly and in the most legal way costs quite a few bucks.If you add this to the current asking price of around 7500 ride away will add at least another $1500.Depending on the exhaust system even more.If you require proper identification and tracing of things like VIN plates it can be clse to $2000.At this point you already see really only makes sense it is a cheap second hand bike, whicj makes the entire approach a bit questionable anyway.With now close to $10.000 for a new bike the difference to a well known brand with maybe a better reputation is not that big anymore.The bike would already be unrestricted and making road legal modification wouldn't interest anyone.Not to mention of course the warranty issues as Cfmoto won't honor any of it if you modify new LAMS bike!Now add the possible costs for repairs or parts that would otherwise be free and free of labour costs and the bargain becomes very expensive before the warranty period is over.There will be the point where you ask yourself why did you bother in the first place....Warranty....Once modded the factory warranty is void so to say.Problem here is that the law is intentionally unclear on the reasons and options applicable here.As the bike would (without exhaust mod) be just like any international model the law states the warranty must be granted.However, Cfmoto has the right to refuse it anyway based on the exclusions required by law to prevent non-LAMS conform bikes from getting back on the road.A blown engine with a proper service history would be no big deal without this.The right to refuse a free warranty replacement for covered parts if the bike was not serviced by a licensed dealer is something car manufacturers already failed with.Cfmoto however will argue that their terms and conditions always superseed any Australian laws or regulations unless it was legally shown that one or more sections are actually invalid in Australia.This includes any evident or suspected tampering with the LAMS restrictions.If in doubt an ECU reading would indicate the impossible throttle positions used and the different ECU.Means even once the warranty is over you can't really take your bike to your dealer for a service or just a check without risking troubles.Some say this is still not enough to deter restricted drivers, I say that any fully licensed rider should have the right to enjoy his bike without LAMS restrictions.But if in doubt Cfmoto is always right, no matter how they argue.Last words from the wise camel....If you are fully licensed it is entirely your choice what you do with your bike and how you deal with - or interprete possible legal issues.Anyone required to display plates should just not think about modding the bike, it is not worth the risk.Although not really a big deal for an experienced rider, the added power and better response can cause a bad judgement.You might have been happy to open her up fully around your favourite hiarpin bend but now it could mean you loose traction even if don't try to break your LAMS approved speed record.Especially when things get a bit slippery and unexpected it can be difficult to prevent the heavy beast from going down.Never underestimate what you can't see and react to in time!Never overestimate your skills or the bikes real capabilities in terms of handling and grip!Once you are fully used to the different response you are fine, until then it is better to play it safe instead of ending up to be very, very sorry....

 can any one help me  to make this tower as i   am unknown abt it   we have to   make according to this basis:- • The base of the tower must fit within a 10cm x 10cm square, on a flat, level surface. • The top of the tower should be 5cm x 5cm this is to place the load. • The tower height should not exceed a maximum of 15 cm. • The weight of the tower must not be more than 35 g • All sides of the tower must be the same.

I want to add AURDOINO Library tp proteus..I cant find library folder

SO TEMPTED TO WATCH ENDING OF *see title* BUT MUST NOT SPOIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! btw theres this person that makes cool video stories set in tp world heres link to story im into http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKTnjbZoJHs&feature;=channel_video_title its cool

Please don't tell me to "turn the roll around" or to lock the cats out of the bathroom. These are not feasible. The kitties shread the roll no matter position it is in, and we've got one litter box that MUST be in the bathroom. I have 7 cats, and they need a box in almost every room in the house. I've been keeping the current roll in the cabinet, but I'm getting pretty sick of having to hide the roll every time I go to the bathroom. There has to be a better way. I want ideas on how to make a simple, attractive, and durable cover for the toilet paper roll. I'm almost ready to go out and buy a commercial cover, but I think they are hideous -- great gargantuan hunks of plastic. Much thanks for ideas... Jamie, Boots, Mousie, Minnie, Domino, Beaners, Choppy, and Winston

Some pictures have box like line structure on the things in the picture which if we take the cursor on shows some sentences on the box.how tp make that type of picture.here is a link to a instructable which contain many of such type of pictures:https://www.instructables.com/id/5-Minute-DIY-Motor/.please takt a look and tell me how to make.

Hi all Is it possible to stop anyone entering a specific number (phone number) on my network? I have a TP Link TL -WR642G if that helps. I am asking that because there have been some people in our network entering phone numbers into ads all over the net...

Computer says it is tps. why now would it mess up. tried disconnecting neg battery post for 1 hour, but no help. what can i do next? idiling low, no power uphill or giving gas cuts engine out. please help

 I was trying to fix my friend's magnavox plasma tv. I did the fat-topped cap replacement on the Y board and now There is no voltages from the P.S. I had them before pulling the Y board to replace the cap. NowI only have +5V and -17V on the Vscan TP.

Basically i wana give power tp my 3.5" disktop HDD with usb,i dnt wana use adapters..,so plz help me out to convert the usb 5v dc to 12v dc with max current of 2 amp...,thnx..,any1 intellegent plz leme kno at deepakpatter@gmail.com

Hi, im building a clock for my AS level design and technology course. one of my ideas is to have a clock mechansism in the base, hidden, and have a gear system turning the hands above it. below is a small and very undetailed picture i came up with just now. tp show you. what i need is to find a very strong clock mechanism. one that will have enough power to drive the gears. if anyone can help me with finding one i would very much appreciate your help.

When I went to Walgreens (a friend thought he saw mothballs there) I didn't find any mothballs, but mabey they were outta stock. When I went tp Wal-Mart they were all out of stock. So if you all could help me save a little time by telling me what brands or where to find them, that would be awesome

All right everybody so I'm going tp post a little brain puzzle. The first one to get it will get followed by me. (NOTICE: PM me the answer,if you leave a comment it has a chance to be stolen.)  Puzzle: 3 men enter a steam room at a gyn. One of the men is carrying a thermos,the other a towel,and the third a water bottle. After 10 minutes later and the steam clearing away two of the men find that the other is dead. WHO KILLED THE MAN. After somebody has given me the answer I will post the correct answer in a edit of this forum. Good luck.  

I have a xda Atom exec device and i am facing a problem connecting it to my wireless network at home . the device detects other networks around me but it does not see my wireless network.. who can walk me through the correct steps if there is any or , what do i need to modify in my wireless router settings , i have a TP-Link router . thank you in advance

I have a TP-link TL-WN722N wifi adapter ... it came with a detachable 4dbi antenna but its range is not good i want to use some wifi which are far from me with my current adapter the signal i get is very weak so i think by replacing antenna i can increase its range :) i searched a little bit no google & website & i liked this https://www.instructables.com/id/Biquad-Yagi-2-4GHz-Wifi-Antenna/ :) i think i can make it :) is there is any better option than this ? i want a long range antenna

I use internet in my PC which is a Cable Broadband Connection, and I have a USB wifi router of TP Link. I have created my PC a wifi Hotspot by installing that wifi router, and Phones are getting connected with it. But, phones are unable to use internet that I am using in this PC. Is it because, I am having 2 different connection or, network system? if it is, how can I share my cable broadband internet with my phones? FYI, I am operating an iPhone and a Android. Thanks in advance. Have a nice day.

I am having the same old problem that many have had with connectivity of laptop to home wireless network.  I know I have a fairly new router, a TP-LINK wireless "N" gigabit router, and my laptop is about 5 years old.  In an earlier post, you had suggested that a new NIC may be in order, I suspect that this is my issue, as your other suggestions were unsuccessful, mainly because I could not access required information.   Do you feel I should get a new NIC, and which one do you suggest? You mentioned an easy and inexpensive solution on Amazon...do you have a link to the correct one?  I have a Toshiba Satellite with Windows Vista. Many thanks....

I have these "universal" plastic speaker adapters:http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=103200&i;=142SA69&tp;=919But the hole in my car is too small to mount the speaker on top, and the hole in the plastic is just slightly too small to fit the surround of the speaker if I mount it from the bottom. I figure it will be a lot easier to widen the hole in the plastic rather than in the car's sheet metal, but it's still not easy. Any tips? I've tried a box cutter knife, pocket knife, soldering iron, torch with soldering iron attachment, chisel, etc. Probably gave myself cancer from the fumes from trying to melt it. It's not terribly tough plastic, but it's kind of thick, so it's not easy. Plus it's difficult to cut a circle from the inside. I need to increase it from 13 cm diameter to 13.5 cm.

Could use some assistance here.Required: An activation switch that relies on two pressure sensors and a voltage sensing input and a manual activation switchI am trying to use an arduino as the mastermind to activate a relay based on 3 inputs; 1200-1500psi transducer, 40-60psi fuel pressure sensor and a 4.8v max throttle position sensor.The Arduino once receiving an input from my arming switch, will check the sensors/inputs and if values are met will send an activation voltage to the relay, which will in turn activate my nitrous oxide and fuel solinoids.I may consider adding a small LCD to show what is ready and if the system is armed and activated.[Arm Switch]----》 [Arduino] [Checks]----》[Fuel Pressure Sensor]----》[ready/not ready] [Checks]----》[N2O Pressure Transducer]----》[ready/not ready] [Checks]----》[TPS voltage (4.8v=wide open throttle)]----》[ready/not ready][Arduino (if all ready)]----》 [Relay is activated]

 I have a 54M Wireless router here. It's a TP-Link with 5 ports at the antennae side. The first port is labeled "WAN" and it may mean "Wide Area Network" or "Wired Area Network" or "Wireless Area Network". The other ports are for wired connections. I want to use this router, but my problem is that I can't seem to secure the thing with a password (remember it's wireless). Also, the last time I tried to use it, the whole thing won't work. Well, sure the Network was setup, but the internet won't work. Where do you plug the network cable from the modem to the router, and the PC to the router.  Straightened out: How do you put a password on the router? How is it supposed to be connected? Could you disable the wireless feature? If so how? What does "WAN" mean?                                        - Thanks                                                                                                        

Last year my house was egged in a drive by "shooting". in past years there were attempts at TPing my tree but its like 200' so it was a fail. Anyways i need suggestions on how to defend my house. so far i have Airsoft sniper in the tree Water hose Super Soaker Flame thrower Chasing them on a bike with a 100Db alarm on it MORE airsoft guns Paintball Bazooka "homemade" Camera flash for blinding them Firecrackers (possibly if i can find them in time) panic button for car alarm POSSIBLY putting a trail of gasoline on the road so in case of a drive by someone in the bush can light it and scare the crap out of driver and prevent them from leaving Playing random music VERY loud and getting like 10 people to give a GIANT group hug SMOKE BOMBS Night vision (kipkay design) pitch forks and torches Please any other ideas would be helpful

This is a project I'm wiling on with my little brother. I'm building a cannon out of PVC. I want it to be able to shoot four times without adding air again. So my idea was to make four chambers to store the air. Each chamber would have an individual ball valve. Then another ball valve where the chambers stem into the main body and barrel of the cannon. From the three inch PVC Im going to drop back down to 2"-2.5"  PVC for a more forced compression, then the barrel will be 4". I understand that PSI is a pressure measurement, however I'd assume that my PSI's wouldn't be able to exceed the lowest grade of PVC I build with? That would only make since.  The problem I'm having is, I'm not sure if any stores such as home depot or lowes has couplets that could couple 4" and 3" as well as 3" to 2". I also need to know what kind of pressure would I need to get to launch toilet paper into about a 10-15 foot height? Or would this just be a trial and error experiment?  Thanks for all help. It's much appreciated!

Hello, My laptop won't connect to my home wifi. The problem just started few weeks ago, before it was automatically connecting to it with no problem. I have a broadband router, wifi enabled with TP Link (TL-WR340G) Wifi router. My network won't even show up in the available networks list. However, if I reboot the machines or turn on or off my router or broadband router, it somethings catches it and it works fine. I don't know what thing make it works (it automatically connects). Sometimes, it just catches the signal (but don't connect automatically as I have set my home network on auto connect), but when I connect it manually, it don't get connected, instead it shows troubleshooting. And troubleshooting always lead  me to "reset your modem by turning it off for 10 seconds", and nothing happens when i do this. Few things I should mention: 1. My laptop connects perfectly with other wireless networks. After this problem,  I mostly use my neighbour's wifi, that works perfectly everything. 2. My wifi router works perfectly with my iphone, and other wifi mobile devices. The problem is only with my laptop. Please guide me, whats wrong and how to solve it.

I am trying to increase my wifi reach because my indoor wifi adapter is not picking enough AP's i am using a TP-LINK wireless adapter with RaLink 3070 Chipset after trying some cable extending ways its till not satisfying what i want to ask if i setup a outdoor Wireless CPE how can i use that to monitor or perform ap's from internal wifi adapter to make it more clear i will use my tplink adapter with my computer usb as a bridge to access my outdoor wireless CPE or outdoor wireless adapter so what i want to achieve is make my outdoor wireless adapter work in monitor mode and deliver data to my internal wifi adapter where internal adapter will only act a a bridge to access outdoor adapter in this way i will be able to extend reach of my wifi coverage i am trying to find a solution in different forums if its impossible can you suggest any other solution to bridge two or more wireless adapter in a way where the last adapter works as monitoring or injecting adapter and middle and first one only work as abridge to connect to the last third adapter?

So... Got some subs I had lying around: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWE1042/Alpine-SWE-1042.html?tp=111&tab;=features_and_specs I am trying to figure out if I should vent (I don't think I should from research) and if I can do them in a single box or if it's better to put them each in a box. I also haven't found out if I should JUST double the volume for having both in one box or if it should be a different amount. The suggested volume I've calculated is 4.1 cu ft (but that seems a bit huge).       V(as) 33 liters   |    Q(ts) 0.66    |    10 Inch The speakers will be in series, I don't know if this affects whether or not I can put them in a single box. How much does the shape of the box matter? Can I make a rectangular cube and put the speakers at either end or do they need to be on the same side? When it comes to fill would it be better to use something fluffy that takes up a large amount of space like very fluffed out cotton or is carpet always the better way to go? I cannot find how much fill I SHOULD use. I have found suggestions for just carpet on the back wall and some for all sides wherever you can and even two people suggested to fill it to about 80% (though it did not say what with). Any questions?

I am unable to retrieve string (RFID) from Arduino connected to Android app through Bluetooth . Arduino code #include #include #include #define SS_PIN 10 #define RST_PIN 9 char command; String string; MFRC522 rfid(SS_PIN, RST_PIN); // Instance of the class MFRC522::MIFARE_Key key; byte nuidPICC[3];// Init array that will store new NUID String RFID; void setup() {   Serial.begin(9600);   SPI.begin(); // Init SPI bus   rfid.PCD_Init(); // Init MFRC522 } void loop() {   if ( ! rfid.PICC_IsNewCardPresent())     return;   // Verify if the NUID has been readed   if ( ! rfid.PICC_ReadCardSerial())     return;        for (byte i = 0; i < 4; i++) {       nuidPICC[i] = rfid.uid.uidByte[i];       if(i==0)       {         RFID=String(nuidPICC[i],HEX);         //Serial.println(RFID);       }       else       {        String temp =String(nuidPICC[i],HEX);        RFID=String(RFID + temp);        }    }       //Serial.println("\n Rfid :-");    //Serial.println(RFID);      if (Serial.available() > 0)     {string = "";}         while(Serial.available() > 0)     {       command = ((byte)Serial.read());             if(command == ':')       {         break;       }             else       {         string += command;       }             delay(1);     }     if(string == "TO")     {        // ledOn();         //ledon = true;         //Serial.println(RFID);     }     rfid.PICC_HaltA();   // Stop encryption on PCD   rfid.PCD_StopCrypto1(); } Android Code rfid.setOnClickListener(new View.OnClickListener() {             @Override             public void onClick(View v) {                 readrfid();             }         });  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------     // This will be the Readfrom Rfid !     private void readrfid()     {         String tp;         if (btSocket!=null)         {             try             {                 btSocket.getOutputStream().write("TO".toString().getBytes());                 ins = btSocket.getInputStream();                     while(ins.available() > 0)                     {                         //Reading from serial input                         valor= Byte.toString((byte)ins.read());                     }                 //Displaying readed value                 Toast.makeText(getApplicationContext(), valor , Toast.LENGTH_SHORT).show();             }             catch (IOException e)             {                 msg("Error");             }         }     } Thank You.

#include #include IPAddress ip(192, 168, 0, 120); char ssid[] = "TP-LINK_7035CE";     //  your network SSID (name) char pass[] = "(sabra*123)";        // your network password WiFiServer server(80);     // create a server at port 80 String readString;         // stores the HTTP request ////////////////////// void setup(){ WiFi.config(ip); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); //pin selected to control LED //start WIFI WiFi.begin(ssid, pass);   // initialize WiFi device digitalWrite(6, LOW); server.begin(); } void loop(){ // Create a client connection WiFiClient client = server.available();  // try to get client if (client) { while (client.connected()) { if (client.available()) { char c = client.read(); //read char by char HTTP request if (readString.length() < 100) { //store characters to string readString += c; //Serial.print(c); } //if HTTP request has ended if (c == '\n') { /////////////// client.println("HTTP/1.1 200 OK"); //send new page client.println("Content-Type: text/html"); client.println(); client.println(""); client.println(""); client.println("Home Automation"); client.println(""); client.println(""); client.println("Home Automation"); client.println(""); client.println(""); client.println("Turn On Light"); client.println("Turn Off Light"); client.println(""); client.println(""); ///////////////////// control arduino pin if(readString.indexOf("?lighton") >-1)//checks for on { digitalWrite(6, HIGH); // set pin 6 high } else{ if(readString.indexOf("?lightoff") >-1)//checks for off { digitalWrite(6, LOW); // set pin 6 low } } readString=""; //clearing string for next read delay(1); //stopping client client.stop(); } } } } }

Good afternoon. Recently--four days ago-- I installed a new modem/gateway combo unit in my home and decided to keep the same SSID as well as pin in order to decrease the hassle of going through each of my devices and reconnecting them to a new network with a different password. All was going well and I had not detected any issues. The next day, I booted up my PC in the bedroom and I tried to load up Steam and play some games. It soon became clear to me that the internet wasn't working as it should. When I looked at the icon tray to see if I was still connected, it showed I was. I launched Chrome to look up a solution to my problem and it failed to load anything. I got my tablet out and it was doing fine with anything I wanted to do. I eventually broke out an older laptop and used the Windows 7 built in ICS tool to use the ethernet cable and connect to the internet. It worked. So I grabed the old router and plugged it into the laptop's ethernet and created a new WiFi network and sure enough the desktop picked it up and it connected just fine to the internet. I switched back to the new (old name) network and it still refused to allow me access to the internet. I am running Windows 8 fully patched with a TP-Link WN881nd WiFi card. System restore is not an option unless it is 100% needed. I have looked at hundreds of forums and threads and none of them have been able to help. 

After the recent site updates, I noticed that the view all steps link on top is replaced by a tiny push button next to the download button. Problem: I have not set the default view all steps option in my profile yet whenever I visit any ible, it shows all steps. Consequences of the problem: The ible takes time to load, eats bandwidth, many options like vote, stats are not functional unless the ible fully loaded Steps to reproduce: Open your browser Visit any ible, make sure you don't have allsteps set in your profile. If you see all steps enabled in ible, disable and view normal ible. Now open another tab in your browser and view a different ible. Notice that both ibles look normal (not all steps) Now come back tp first ible and press allsteps button, let the ible fully load. Now switch to other tab and fresh the page. You will notice that the allsteps button is already pressed and ibles loads all steps. Now open any ible and you will notice it is opened allsteps Possible cause of the problem: Before the site update, a ALLSTEPS querystring value was used in the ible URL to maintain the state of allstep. After the update it appears like cookie or session is used to persist state of allsteps button which is not unique and therefore allstep state of one ible is reflected in another. Environment OS: Windows 7 Home premium Browsers: IE9 and FF 20.01 I noticed this does not happen in Chrome 27.0 as the button relies on the ALLSTEPS querystring

Hi I have a Personal Fan that is working.  But, I am trying to change the ping distance to operate a rely. Trying to get the Ping distance to track a pot input so the distance the fan will come on can be changed by the pot. In the serial monitor the pot input will change from 0 to 1024. I was not able to get the ping distance to read out and how to make the Distance value track to the input pot? Thanks to anybody that could look at this ad steer me in the write direction.  #include "Ultrasonic.h" int RELAY = 9;  // RELAY Pin. Ultrasonic sensor1(11,10); // Ultrasonic(int TP, int EP); //int TRIG = 11; // Trigger Pin //int ECHO = 10; // Echo Pin int Range; // The range of the object from Ping Sensor int Dist; // The Distance value int POTPIN = A1; //#declare relayState; int  relayState; //int distPot; distControl; //#declare distPot; int distPot; //#declare distControl; int distControl; long cm; //distance min and max const int minDistance = 2;  //dist in CM dont go below 2 const int maxDistance = 200;  //dist in CM //Ultrasonic ultrasonic(TRIG,ECHO); // Create and initialize the Ultrasonic object. void setup() {   pinMode(RELAY, OUTPUT); //To the relay via the transistor   //Dist = 15; //The distance in inches. Change this for increasted or dicreasted range. Dist = map(Dist,0, 5, 1, 1023); Serial.begin(9600); } void loop(){   //Range = ultrasonic.Ranging(CM); // Range is calculated in Centimeters. Dist = analogRead(POTPIN);   // check the distance pot   distPot = analogRead(Dist);   //distControl = map(distPot,0,1024,minDistance,maxDistance);   distControl = constrain(RELAY,0,255);   if(relayState){     Dist  = distControl.Ranging(CM);     digitalWrite(RELAY,HIGH);   }      else{      digitalWrite(RELAY,LOW);   }    // RELAY = map(cm,distControl,minDistance); //variable map formula relationship     RELAY = constrain(RELAY, 0, 255); //int i = analogRead(POTPIN); // if (i == Dist)digitalWrite(RELAY,HIGH); // else digitalWrite(RELAY,LOW);   //Range = ultrasonic.Ranging(INC); // Range is calculated in Inches.     //if (Range < Dist) {     //digitalWrite(RELAY, HIGH);     //} else if (Range > Dist)      //digitalWrite(RELAY, LOW);      //delay(90);   Serial.print(Dist); Serial.println("inch"); delay(100); //Serial.print(sensor1);   Serial.print(distControl); //Serial.println("POTPIN"); delay(100); }

So I just built myself a new computer with the following specs gigabyte motherboard model: GA-MA770T-UD3P (rev. 1.0) phenom 2 tri core processor 4gb ddr3 mushkin ram radeon 4670 tp link wireless card 2 LCD's hooked up to the 4670 Windows 7 64-bit/ XP 64-bit (not at the same time) +tons of cooling so nothing is over heating I installed windows 7 and it kept freezing up every once in a while and I tried just about everything to fix it. Updating bios, cleaning the registry, making sure all the drivers are up to date, all sorts of things. So I thought it was Windows 7 giving me the problem. I uninstall windows 7 and installed windows xp. I loaded up everything got the drivers up to date and after a couple of hours it froze up. Then I rebooted and bam another freeze 3 minutes into being on the computer. And again the next time 15 minutes into being on the computer. Now Im not sure if the freezing is happening on windows 7 for the same reason as on Windows xp and it is driving me crazy not being able to use my new computer Any ideas on what I can do to fix the problem? Thanks for any help. Got some more details. 1) I noticed when I move a window around I my cp usage spikes from 1% to close to 30%. Not sure if this is normal but with tri core 2.8ghz doesnt seem like this is good. 2) When I have 3+ windows open and I drag them over each other it leaves a trail or shadow of its edge so it looks like I am dragging many windows. Sometimes this shadow is just white. 3) Also when I try to install a game the computer will always freeze before it finishes and most of the time right at the beginning. 4) When I press the button to force it to go off and then turn it back on it often just comes up with a black screen and I have to repeat. it always turns on the second time. How can I tell if it is my hardware? Just did a video stress test and benchmark. Everything was normal. Ran "cpu stability test 6.0". Watched it for 20 minutes then I left the computer and came back to see it frozen in screen saver. Speedfan temps- Temp 1- 26c temp2- 25c HD0- 26C core- 15c It is pretty cold in my room. I also found something that makes it freeze every single time I have done it so far. When trying to install world of warcraft as soon as I click agree in the install setup it freezes. 6 out of 6 times. My power supply is 500w "stable power"

I am not as familiar with C/C++ as i am with Arduino. I am wanting to change this code from Common Cathode to Common Anode. How can i do this? //_____________________ fuse.c #define F_CPU 8000000UL #include #include #include #include #include #define _REVERSE #define _OPT_BUTTON_ /* . document tab-stop set to 4, best viewed w/ vi set to ":set ts=4" . description   this project is created so that if i could revert the RESET fuse change and flash via   SPI again. . features   . reads device signature and hi-low fuses for hi-voltage serial programmable attinys   . reset hi-low fuses to factory default on target devices   . layout to drop-on attiny13, attiny25/45/85 8 pin devices targets   . attiny24/44/84 targets needs additional breadboard and jumper wires   . standalone operations, fuses show on 7 segment display . project fuse setting   avrdude -c usbtiny -p t2313 -V -U lfuse:w:0xe4:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m . parts list   . attiny2313   . 4x7 segment LED display   . 1k resistor x 2   . 2n2222 NPN transistor or equivalent   . 78L05   . mini breadboard 170 tiepoints   . +12V battery source . opearation   . place 8 pin target device on breadboard   . for 14 pin targets, jumper wire to breadboard   . apply 12V power   . display shows device name upon identification   . press and release button to cycle display content   . displays device name, fuse hi bits, fuse low bits and fuse extended bits   . long press and release button to reset fuse to factory default   . references and related projects   . datasheets   . avrdoper http://www.obdev.at/avrusb/avrdoper.html/   . mightyohm http://www.mightyohm.com/blog/2008/09/arduino-based-avr-high-voltage-programmer/                  Gd 12V                  Gd Rt V+ Ck MI MO (tinyusb programmer)                   +  +  +  +  +  +    +=====================================================+    |  .  .  .  .  .  I  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  | [I]n (78L05)    |  .  .  .  .  C  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  | [C]ommon    |  .  .  .  .  .  .  O  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  | [O]ut    | (v)(d)(b)(c) +--------o (v) .  .  .  .  . (d)(c) .  |    |  +--+--+--+  |  o  +--+-(1)-A--F-(2)(3)-B--+--+  .  |    | |+         | 1k | |+ b7..6..5..4..3..2..1..0 d6|    |    | |         -| |  1k|R d0..1 a1..0 d2..3..4..5  -|    |    |  +--+--+--+  o  |  +--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+  .  |    |  .  .  .  .  .  o  -  -  E  D (.) C  G (4) -  -  .  |    |  o--------------o  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  |    |  . (a) .  E  B  C  . (a) .  .  .  .  .  . (b) .  .  | EBC of 2n2222    |  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  o--B--o  .  |    +=====================================================+                     (p)(p)                                 join (p)(p) during programming       SDO   SDI     +--+--+--+    |+    SII  |    |R        -|     +--+--+--+       SCI #define HIV _BV(7) //b7 .. RESET #define VCC _BV(6) //b6 .. (v) #define SDO _BV(0) //b0 .. (d) #define SCI _BV(0) //d0 .. (a) #define SII _BV(5) //d5 .. (b) #define SDI _BV(6) //d6 .. (c) */ #define BUTTON_DDR   DDRD #define BUTTON_PORT  PORTD #define BUTTON_PIN   _BV(4) #define SEG_A_PB _BV(5) #define SEG_B_PB _BV(1) #define SEG_C_PB 0x00 #define SEG_D_PB 0x00 #define SEG_E_PB 0x00 #define SEG_F_PB _BV(4) #define SEG_G_PB 0x00 #define SEG_d_PB 0x00 #define DIGIT_0_PB _BV(6) #define DIGIT_1_PB _BV(3) #define DIGIT_2_PB _BV(2) #define DIGIT_3_PB 0x00 #define SEG_A_PD 0x00 #define SEG_B_PD 0x00 #define SEG_C_PD _BV(2) #define SEG_D_PD _BV(7)  // d.7 maps to a.1 #define SEG_E_PD _BV(1) #define SEG_F_PD 0x00 #define SEG_G_PD _BV(3) //#define SEG_d_PD 0x00 #define SEG_d_PD _BV(6)  // d.6 maps to a.0 #define DIGIT_0_PD 0x00 #define DIGIT_1_PD 0x00 #define DIGIT_2_PD 0x00 #define DIGIT_3_PD _BV(4) #ifdef _REVERSE #define HOLD_DDR_VAL 0x60 #define HOLD_VAL   0x40 #else #define HOLD_DDR_VAL 0x18 #define HOLD_VAL   0x08 #endif #define SEGS_STAY(v) \    (((v & _BV(6)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(5)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(4)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(3)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(2)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(1)) ? 1 : 0) +\ ((v & _BV(0)) ? 1 : 0)) | 0x40 #define SEGS_PORT_DET(p, v) \    (((v & _BV(6)) ? SEG_A_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(5)) ? SEG_B_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(4)) ? SEG_C_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(3)) ? SEG_D_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(2)) ? SEG_E_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(1)) ? SEG_F_P##p : 0) | \ ((v & _BV(0)) ? SEG_G_P##p : 0)) #define SEGS_PORT(v) {SEGS_STAY(v),SEGS_PORT_DET(B, v),SEGS_PORT_DET(D, v)} #define SEGS_B (SEG_A_PB|SEG_B_PB|SEG_C_PB|SEG_D_PB|SEG_E_PB|SEG_F_PB|SEG_G_PB|SEG_d_PB) #define SEGS_D (SEG_A_PD|SEG_B_PD|SEG_C_PD|SEG_D_PD|SEG_E_PD|SEG_F_PD|SEG_G_PD|SEG_d_PD) #define DIGITS_B (DIGIT_0_PB|DIGIT_1_PB|DIGIT_2_PB|DIGIT_3_PB) #define DIGITS_D (DIGIT_0_PD|DIGIT_1_PD|DIGIT_2_PD|DIGIT_3_PD) #define USED_B (SEGS_B|DIGITS_B) #define USED_D (SEGS_D|DIGITS_D) /*        ___a__       |      |      f|      | b        ___g__      e|      | c       |      |        ___d__ */ //_____________________ abc defg #define LTR_0 0x7e // 0111 1110 #define LTR_1 0x30 // 0011 0000 #define LTR_2 0x6d // 0110 1101 #define LTR_3 0x79 // 0111 1001 #define LTR_4 0x33 // 0011 0011 #define LTR_5 0x5b // 0101 1011 #define LTR_6 0x5f // 0101 1111 #define LTR_7 0x70 // 0111 0000 #define LTR_8 0x7f // 0111 1111 #define LTR_9 0x7b // 0111 1011 #define LTR_A 0x77 // 0111 0111 #define LTR_b 0x1f // 0001 1111 #define LTR_C 0x4e // 0100 1110 #define LTR_d 0x3d // 0011 1101 #define LTR_E 0x4f // 0100 1111 #define LTR_F 0x47 // 0100 0111 #define LTR_P 0x67 // 0110 0111 #define LTR_G 0x5e // 0101 1110 #define LTR_n 0x15 // 0001 0101 #define LTR_r 0x05 // 0000 0101 #define LTR_t 0x0f // 0000 1111 #define LTR__ 0x00 // 0000 0000 uint8_t EEMEM digit2ports[][3] = { SEGS_PORT(LTR_0), SEGS_PORT(LTR_1), SEGS_PORT(LTR_2), SEGS_PORT(LTR_3), SEGS_PORT(LTR_4), SEGS_PORT(LTR_5), SEGS_PORT(LTR_6), SEGS_PORT(LTR_7), SEGS_PORT(LTR_8), SEGS_PORT(LTR_9), SEGS_PORT(LTR_A), SEGS_PORT(LTR_b), SEGS_PORT(LTR_C), SEGS_PORT(LTR_d), SEGS_PORT(LTR_E), SEGS_PORT(LTR_F), SEGS_PORT(LTR_r), SEGS_PORT(LTR_P), SEGS_PORT(LTR_G), SEGS_PORT(LTR_n), SEGS_PORT(LTR_t), SEGS_PORT(LTR__), }; enum { POS_0, POS_1, POS_2, POS_3, POS_4, POS_5, POS_6, POS_7, POS_8, POS_9, POS_A, POS_b, POS_C, POS_d, POS_E, POS_F, POS_r, POS_P, POS_G, POS_n, POS_t, POS__, }; #define ST_HOLD  0x80 #define ST_PRESSED 0x40 #define ST_BUTTON   (ST_HOLD|ST_PRESSED) #define ST_TICKED 0x20 #define ST_12HR  0x10 #define ST_REFRESH 0x08 #define ST_BUZZ     0x04 #define ST_SETUP    0x03 #define ST_SENSE ST_BUZZ volatile uint8_t busy=0; volatile uint8_t state=ST_REFRESH|ST_12HR; volatile uint8_t dim=1; uint8_t  pos=0, stays; uint8_t  mode=0; #ifdef _OPT_SENSE_ uint16_t charged=0; #endif uint16_t button=0; uint16_t clicks=0, ticks=0; //_______________________ ticks per second and devired values #define TPS   (F_CPU/256) #define TPS_2 (TPS/2) #define TPS_4 (TPS/4) #define LONG_HOLD (TPS/3) #define NUM_DIGITS 4 static const uint8_t digit_mapb[] PROGMEM = { 0x40,0x08,0x04,0x00 }; static const uint8_t digit_mapd[] PROGMEM = { 0x00,0x00,0x00,0x10 }; //_________________ list of porta..c,ddra..c,stay * number_of_digits uint8_t output[3 * NUM_DIGITS]; uint8_t *ioptr = output; uint8_t dot = 0x00; //__________________________________________________ ISR(TIMER0_OVF_vect) { clicks++; if (clicks >= TPS) {   clicks = 0;   state |= ST_TICKED;   ticks++; }//if if (stays & 0x0f) { stays--; return; } stays >>= dim; DDRA  &= ~(USED_D>>6); DDRB  &= ~USED_B; DDRD  &= ~(USED_D&0x3f); PORTA &= ~(USED_D>>6); PORTB &= ~USED_B; PORTD &= ~(USED_D&0x3f); if (stays) { stays--; return; } if (busy) return; #ifdef _OPT_BUTTON_ //___________ scan button PORTD |= BUTTON_PIN; _delay_us(1);  // allow pull-up to settle if (PIND & BUTTON_PIN) {   if (button) {    if (button > 30) {     //_________ released     if (button > LONG_HOLD)      state |= ST_HOLD;     else      state |= ST_PRESSED;     stays = 0x14;    }//if   }//if   else {    stays = 0x10;   }//else   button = 0; }//if else {   //_____________ pressed   button++;   if (button > LONG_HOLD) { // show long hold #ifdef _REVERSE    DDRB |= HOLD_DDR_VAL; PORTB |= HOLD_VAL; #else    DDRD |= HOLD_DDR_VAL; PORTD |= HOLD_VAL; #endif   }//if }//else PORTD &= ~BUTTON_PIN; DDRD  &= ~(USED_D&0x3f); PORTD &= ~(USED_D&0x3f); if (state & ST_BUTTON) return; if (button) return; #endif #ifdef _OPT_SENSE_ if (!charged && (state & ST_SENSE)) {   state &= ~ST_SENSE;   DDRB  = 0x00; PORTB = 0x00;   DDRD  = 0x00; PORTD = 0x00;   _delay_us(1);   //_________ charge sensor led   charged = 1;   //SENSE_CHARGE   DDRA  |=  SEGS_D>>6;   PORTA &= ~(SEGS_D>>6);   DDRB  |=  SEGS_B;   PORTB &= ~SEGS_B;   DDRD  |=  SEGS_D&0x3f;   PORTD &= ~(SEGS_D&0X3f);   DDRB  &= ~0x44;   PORTB |=  0x44;   //DDRB  &= ~_BV(6);   //PORTB |= _BV(6);   //_delay_us(1);   //asm volatile("nop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\t"::);   //asm volatile("nop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\t"::);   //asm volatile("nop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\tnop\n\t"::);   //while (!SENSE_BUTT);   //PORTB &= ~_BV(6);   while (!SENSE_ALL);   PORTB &= ~0x44;   return; }//if #endif //___________ load segments uint8_t portd = *ioptr++; uint8_t portb = *ioptr++; uint8_t porta = portd >> 6; portd &= 0x3f; //uint8_t mapb = digit_mapb[pos]; //uint8_t mapd = digit_mapd[pos]; uint8_t mapb = pgm_read_byte(&digit;_mapb[pos]); uint8_t mapd = pgm_read_byte(&digit;_mapd[pos]); DDRA  |= porta; DDRB  |= portb | mapb; DDRD  |= portd | mapd; #ifdef _REVERSE PORTA |= ~porta; PORTB |= ~portb & mapb; PORTD |= ~portd & mapd; #else PORTA |= porta; PORTB |= portb & ~mapb; PORTD |= portd & ~mapd; #endif stays  = *ioptr++; if (stays && (state & ST_SETUP) && (clicks / TPS_2) &&   ((pos == (state & ST_SETUP)) ||   (!pos && !(state & 0x02))))   stays = 0x08; pos++; if (pos >= 4) {   pos = 0;   ioptr = output; }//if } //__________________________________________________ void seg2port(uint8_t bcd, uint8_t which) { if (which & 0x40) {   //_____________ bcd entry, do 2nd digit 1st, then 1st digit   which &= 0x0f;   seg2port(bcd&0x0f, which+1);   bcd >>= 4; }//if uint8_t *pp = output + which * 3; uint8_t offset = 3; busy++; do {   *pp++ = eeprom_read_byte(&digit2ports;[bcd][--offset]); } while (offset); busy--; } #define HIV _BV(7) //b7 #define VCC _BV(6) //b6 #define SDO _BV(0) //b0 #define SCI _BV(0) //d0 #define SII _BV(5) //d5 #define SDI _BV(6) //d6 #define SCI_PULSE _delay_us(1); PORTD |= SCI; _delay_us(1); PORTD &= ~SCI; //__________________________________________________ uint8_t hv_cmd(uint8_t *dptr, uint8_t cnt) { // data format is like write 0_DDDD_DDDD_00 //                      read D_DDDD_DDDx_xx uint8_t sdo=0x00; while (cnt) {   uint8_t sdi = *dptr++;   uint8_t sii = *dptr++;   uint8_t cmp=0x80;   sdo = 0x00;   PORTD &= ~(SDI|SII);   SCI_PULSE;   //sdo = ((PINB&SDO;) ? 1 : 0);   //sdo = ((PINB&SDO;) ? 0 : 1);   // 0x1e92 06   // 0x62df b0110 0010 1101 1111   while (cmp) {    sdo <<= 1;    //sdo |= ((PINB&SDO;) ? 0 : 1);    //sdo |= ((PINB&SDO;) ? 1 : 0);    if (PINB&SDO;) sdo |= 0x01;    PORTD &= ~(SDI|SII);    if (cmp&sdi;) PORTD |= SDI;    //else         PORTD &= ~SDI;    if (cmp&sii;) PORTD |= SII;    //else         PORTD &= ~SII;    SCI_PULSE;    //sdo |= (PINB&SDO;) ? 1 : 0;    cmp >>= 1;   }//while   PORTD &= ~(SDI|SII);   SCI_PULSE;   SCI_PULSE;   _delay_us(100);   cnt--; }//while //sdo = cnt; return sdo; } uint8_t chip_sig[] = { 0xee, 0xee, 0xee, 0xee, 0x00, 0x00 }; //__________________________________________________ void read_chip(uint8_t release_reset) { cli(); busy++; // enter hv mode, everything go low DDRB  |= (VCC|HIV|SDO); PORTB &= ~(VCC|SDO);// Vcc and data out off PORTB |= HIV;  // 12v off DDRD  |= (SCI|SDI|SII); PORTD &= ~(SCI|SDI|SII); //_delay_ms(50); PORTB |= VCC;  // Vcc on _delay_us(40); PORTB &= ~HIV;  // turn on 12v _delay_us(15); DDRB  &= ~SDO;  // release SDO _delay_us(300); // should be ready to issue commands // read signature // // default fuse settting taken from http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc/ // // mcu - id          - factory fuse low-high-extended // t13 - 1e9007 (07) - 6a-ff // t25 - 1e9108 (18) - 62-df-ff // t45 - 1e9206 (26) - 62-df-ff // t85 - 1e930b (3b) - 62-df-ff // t24 - 1e910b (1b) - 62-df-ff // t44 - 1e9207 (27) - 6a-df-ff // t84 - 1e930c (3c) - 6a-df-ff // signature  { 0x08, 0x4c, 0xpp, 0x0c,      0x00, 0x68,      0x00, 0x6c // write fuse { 0x40, 0x4c, val,  0x2c,      0x00, 0x64/0x74, 0x00, 0x6c/0x7c // read fuse  { 0x04, 0x4c, 0x00, 0x68/0x7a, 0x00, 0x6c/0x7c uint8_t cmd[] = { 0x08, 0x4c, 0x00, 0x0c, 0x00, 0x68, 0x00, 0x6c, }; uint8_t *pdata = chip_sig; uint8_t i; //____________________ read device signature for (i=0;i<3;i++) {   cmd[2] = i;   if (i)    *pdata++ = hv_cmd(&cmd;[2], 3);   else    *pdata++ = hv_cmd(cmd, 4); }//for uint8_t  id[] = { 0x07, 0x18, 0x26, 0x3b, 0x1b, 0x27, 0x3c, }; uint8_t mcu[] = { 0x13, 0x25, 0x45, 0x85, 0x24, 0x44, 0x84, }; if ((chip_sig[0] == 0x1e) && ((chip_sig[1]&0xf0) == 0x90) &&   !(chip_sig[2]&0xf0)) {   chip_sig[1] <<= 4;   chip_sig[1] |= chip_sig[2];   /*   switch (chip_sig[1]) {    case 0x07: chip_sig[1] = 0x13; break;    case 0x18: chip_sig[1] = 0x25; break;    case 0x26: chip_sig[1] = 0x45; break;    case 0x3b: chip_sig[1] = 0x85; break;    case 0x1b: chip_sig[1] = 0x24; break;    case 0x27: chip_sig[1] = 0x44; break;    case 0x3c: chip_sig[1] = 0x84; break;    default: chip_sig[1] = 0xee; break;   }//switch   chip_sig[0] = 0x00;   */   for (i=0;i<7;i++) {    if (chip_sig[1] == id[i]) {     chip_sig[0] = i;     chip_sig[1] = mcu[i];    }//if   }//for   pdata--; }//if //____________________ reset fuse if (release_reset) {   cmd[0] = 0x40;   //________________ write fuse low bits   cmd[3] = 0x2c; cmd[5] = 0x64;   if (chip_sig[1] == 0x13 || chip_sig[1] == 0x44 || chip_sig[1] == 0x84)    cmd[2] = 0x6a;   else    cmd[2] = 0x62;   hv_cmd(cmd, 4); _delay_ms(50);   //________________ write fuse high bits   cmd[5] = 0x74; cmd[7] = 0x7c;   if (chip_sig[1] == 0x13)    cmd[2] = 0xff;   else    cmd[2] = 0xdf;   hv_cmd(cmd, 4); _delay_ms(50);   //________________ write fuse extended bits   if (chip_sig[1] != 0x13) {    cmd[5] = 0x66; cmd[7] = 0x6e;    cmd[2] = 0x01;    hv_cmd(cmd, 4); _delay_ms(50);   }//if }//if //____________________ read fuse cmd[0] = 0x04; cmd[2] = 0x00; cmd[3] = 0x68; cmd[5] = 0x6c;   // fuse low *pdata++ = hv_cmd(cmd, 3); cmd[3] = 0x7a; cmd[5] = 0x7c;   // fuse high *pdata++ = hv_cmd(cmd, 3); if (chip_sig[1] != 0x13) {   cmd[3] = 0x6a; cmd[5] = 0x6e;  // fuse extended   *pdata++ = hv_cmd(cmd, 3); }//if // done, turn things off PORTB |= HIV; PORTB &= ~(VCC|SDO); PORTD &= ~(SCI|SDI|SII); busy--; sei(); } uint8_t menu=0, loc=0; //__________________________________________________ void main(void) { TCCR0B |= 0x01; TIMSK  |= _BV(TOIE0); TCNT0   = 0x00; DDRA = PORTA = 0; DDRD = PORTD = 0; DDRB   = (VCC|HIV|SDO); //DDRB   = (VCC|SDO); PORTB  = HIV;  // 12v off _delay_ms(50); read_chip(0); sei(); while (1) {   //_____________ "state" bits LBTSRZPP   //              L - long hold, B - button, T - ticked, S - setup mode,   //              R - refresh,   Z - buzzer  PP - digit edit position   //   //_____________ "menu" bits TxxOxMMM   //              T   - in toggle mode   //              O   - option used   //              MMM - menu id (1-4)   if (state & ST_TICKED) {    state &= ~ST_TICKED;   }//if   if (state & ST_REFRESH) {    state &= ~ST_REFRESH;    dot = _BV(mode);    if (mode) {     seg2port(chip_sig[mode*2], 0x40);    }//if    else {     seg2port(POS__, 0);     seg2port(POS_t, 1);    }//else    seg2port(chip_sig[mode*2+1], 0x42);   }//if   //_____________________________________ check input   if (state & ST_BUTTON) { // needs attention    loc = 0;    if (state & ST_PRESSED) {     // normal pressed, rotate display mode     mode++;     if (mode >= 3) mode = 0;    }//if    else {     // pressed and held, reset fuse     mode = 0;     read_chip(1);     _delay_us(100);     read_chip(0);    }//else    state &= ~ST_BUTTON;    state |= ST_REFRESH;   }//if }//while }

Introduction: Had a hard time editing an AVCHD file? According to Final Cut Express Spec, the latest FCE 4 can import hd file avchd natively, but only on Intel Macs, not PowerPC Mac. But how come we can't import AVCHD into FCE while Apple states that Final Cut Express supports AVCHD video? This article is mainly for people who own Canon ivies HG10 AVCHD, Sony HDR SR 12E AVCHD or Panasonic AVCHD camcorder, here you will get advice on how to import AVCHD to FCE or convert AVCHD to a Mac editable format like mov mpeg-4 dv. What's AVCHD? AVCHD utilizes MPEG-4 AVC/H.264 (AVC) video compression codec and Dolby AC-3 (Dolby Digital) audio compression codec, which commonly used by HD camcorders such as Sony, Canon, and Panasonic.The video files usually stored in mts, m2ts, tp or trp. AVCHD recordings can be transferred to a computer by connecting the camcorder via the USB connection. Many camcorders can record to removable media like SDHC and Memory Stick cards or DVD discs, which can be read on a computer directly. What's the relationship between Final Cut Express and AVCHD? The latest Final Cut Express 4 adds support for the latest AVCHD cameras(Cannon, Panasonic, Sony) allows mixing of standard and high definition content on a single timeline. AVCHD is supported on Intel-based Macs. Final Cut will only handle AVCHD files when it finds them in their original file structure (either by connecting the camcorder or using a memory card reader). It is suggested you had to have the folders exactly like they were on the camera. This is true, unless of course you have deleted some files or if any become corrupt then the structure isn't exactly the same. So, what if I am using PowerPC Mac and need to edit avchd with fce, and what if avchd file can't be imported to FCE with Intel Mac? Solution: how to convert avchd to a Mac editable format and import avchd to Final Cut Express? The simple advice is to use the best AVCHD to FCE converter or the avchd to Final Cut Express Converter for Mac converting AVCHD to MPEG-4, convert avchd to MOV or can convert avchd to DV that are compatible with Final Cut Express. AVCHD to FCE converter has a powerful codec pack that contains all the codecs needed to meet your various projects need. With the codec the AVCHD to fce converter program can convert between almost all video/audio files without quality loss during the conversion from avchd to MPEG-4 MOV DV. Video import FCE program avchd to FCE converter for Mac allows you to tune the video resolution, bit rate, frame rate and you can just keep the highest setting as you can so that get the most satisfying result. Using video to FCE converter to convert avchd to mpeg-4 mov or DV and then import into FCE could be as simple as few mouse clicks. It is suitable for both new and experienced Mac users. Just download a free trial and run a test now.

In about two weeks, I will be embarking on a nearly 2000 mile road trip from the "right" coast to the "left" coast of the United States. I will send the person that guesses my fuel economy over the entire trip a $10 (USD) bill and 1 instructables patch.Rules1. Thou Shall Not Exceed My Mileage2. Thou Shall Guess a Number Ending in the Thousandths (xx.xxx)3. Thou Shall not guess a previously guessed number4. Thou Shall guess MPG (please no l/100km et. al. - just to keep the rules more simple)a. If no one guesses exactly, the guess closest, but not exceeding the real number wins.b. If two people guess the same number - see rule 3. The first person's guess is validc. You can change your guess by replying to your original guess - once your guess is changed, it can be taken by someone else.d. Guesses that do not accurate to the thousandth will be ignoredHere's some clues to assist your guessing.Car2000 Volkswagen Jetta2.0L Naturally Aspirated Gasoline Engine ~110hp ratedCurrently 102,xxx Miles on the Odometer5 Speed Manual GearboxOil change ~1500 miles ago (it will not be changed for another 9-10K miles)Tires inflated to 50/55 HOT - these are all seasonsGrille Blocked OffPassenger Mirror Folded in (possibly will be removed)Scanguage2 to monitor coolant temperature, trip mpg, TPS etc.CargoPossibly 1 mini fridge >100lbsMe: ~130lbsPassenger ~150lbsTwo suitcases (one will not exceed 50lbs)Possibly a third suitcase (not exceeding 50lbs)Lets tack on an additional 200lbs for things I'm not seeing nowEPA Estimates24mpg City31mpg Highway27mpg CombinedMeI use hypermile driving techniques... That is:1. Accelerate based on Brake Mean Fuel Consumption Charts (~2500-3000 RPM - 50% throttle = most efficiency)2. Coast and Burn with 3+++:1 coast-burn ratio (engine either off or idle)3. Engine Off at stoplights and approach4. Windows UP - AC OFF (this may change, but that's currently how I'm riding | AC will trump windows)5. I will not exceed the speed limit - I may travel below for optimal fuel economy6. Bump Start where applicable (following the same method the Prius uses to start its ICE)RouteCurrently being discussed and looked over. I20 is looking promising, but it's up in the air.GaslogPlease take this with a grain of salt. I only just recently started hypermiling (beginning of April lets say). So only the last tank (which was 100% city) reflects that.My GaslogCalculationCalculation will be based off the sum of the miles (accurate to the tenth) divided by the sum of the fuel pumped (accurate to the thousandth). Everything will be based on receipt, not scangauge2 data.ChangesThis is the section that I post changes to my car, cargo etc.. A change can be as basic as a bit more anticipated weight or as drastic as major aerodynamic modification or mechanical. A possible change may be a hot air intake.Finally, a note about my oil changes.... I send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for oil analysis. My last oil change interval was a tad over 10K miles -- and the lab report indicated my oil was still good - everything was good except a slightly high Cu level. Not in the danger zone, but something to watch. My point is... Don't give me any crap about 3K miles - I like my oil films established and don't need constant oil changes screwing that up -- that's why I pay for oil analysis (besides, it comes out cheaper in the end anyway).