Search for Tractor in Topics

Figured I'd throw this out there- There is a small group of us in southwestern Ohio that have started a  local pulling league for K'NEX tractors. It's great fun and probably more entertaining than it should be. Is there anyone else out there doing something similar? We're always looking for ideas to make it better. We're also always looking for new competitors if you're local and interested. There are classes for every level from a two wheel drive 'box stock' type setup all the way up to AC and cordless drill motors on tractors that only have to be 50% K'NEX. Thoughts? Interest? Offers of sponsorship? ;) 

I'm no designer but here's an idea I've been stewing on for some time. I've hunted but not found any designs for a pedal powered tractor. The very early tractors were very large;could to lots of work; but they only had 2 or 3 horsepower. They ran so slow you could count the piston strokes. The designs were simple and they were work horses. Our new high horse powered gas tools often cann't do nearly as much. The old machines used heavy flywheels; slow to start but they kept on rolling. With the improvements we've made in bike gearing systems why not make a pedal powered tractor that could do serious work with that same heavy flywheel technology?

I am trying to disassemble the 3pl hydraulic ram.  the cap does not appear to be a screw on type. It has a circlip arrangement ad I thk it must jus pull apart???  can anyone help 

The other day while cleaning up the tall grass in my yard I found an old exhaust manifold. I would appreciate some suggestions for projects that I could do with it.

Its a pull start ride-on and its carborator i believe is be fine i cleaned it and it worked before it has spark and it has not run for a year but recently i got it started and i was riding it around having a blast then my friend took it for a joyride and held down the governor rod too long so ever since then it wouldn't start and it has compression but it sounds funny it like puffs out air after each pull    plz plz help thanks

I need to convert 12v down to 9v(easy) but it must be a high amp output

I have been wondering how hard it is to build a pivot steer garden tractor, I would probably use 2 donor garden tractors, for the axles, gearbox and engine. i was wondering about using  1 inch box section for the chassis, i would like to build it so that it is 4 wheel drive. I have drawn what i was thinking of designing, i am not particulaly good with google sketch up, i would use an engine with a horizontal drive, 10- 20hp probably. i would have an idler on the belt connecting the front and back axles. i would like to set up a pair of belts to go from the engine to the first axle, both with an idler that can be used as a clutch, it would have one belt for forwards and one for backwards, it is likely to be controled by a second clutch peddle, one forward, one backwards. has anyone got any surgestions, especialy for the pivot. I have limited tools, parts and time, i have only acess to tools we have on the farm, drill, welder, grinder and some hand tools.  I'm nearly 15, so the design needs to be fairly simple, but i will get dad to help with some of it. we have a fair selection of old parts, at the farm, i will probably get 2 garden tractors to start from, two westwood? Thanks for the ideas, and replies, it gives me some confidence in the idea

Sirs, In 1990 we purchased a new Belarus tractor, made in Russian.  It came equipped with a large front-end loader and really for the most part it has been an economical, dependable tractor.  It has one small flaw, it doesn't like to start in cold weather, hard to believe they use these tractors in Russia.  Anyway my husband solved that problem by installing both a block heater which heats the water & an oil pan heater which of course heats the oil.  Only thing necessary is to either keep it plugged in all the time or plan ahead and plug it in the night before.  Now for my question, the seals on the arms which raise & lower the loader bucket and the ones that tilt the loader bucket are leaking hydraulic fluid.  Can anyone help us in changing the seals.  We ordered and received the necessary parts, but would like help with specific, very detailed step by step instructions to perform the repair.  It is our understanding the repair can be difficult if one is not careful in removing the end caps that hold the hydraulic cylinders.  Also the cylinder caps are external ones & the diameter is 40 mm.  Any and all assistance will be GREATLY appreciated.  Thanks so much, Debra Kay

Need help getting the idler pulleys back on a cub cadet 1320, anybody have a picture of the underneath of a 1320 cub?

Hello, I have a "Craftsman= IC-Gold Series, Horsepower/Over-Head-Valves= 14.5, and the Model # of= (917.270514).  Can anyone tell me how I can get to the "Transaxle", so I could grease it??  It is shifting extremely hard, and trying to mow with it is quite difficult.  I have been searching for a diagram that might show me where/how to get some grease into the transaxle to enable easier shifting of the gears.  Thank You for your time/attention to my inquiry.

Craftsman lawn tractor model # 917272075 with 17  hp  kohler engine When trying to start engine instead of turning over it kicks back and sometimes backfires.

Thank you for taking my question.  I purchased a Belarus tractor model 525 (65 hp. 4wd) new in 1990.  Although the tractor came equipped with glow plugs, they burned out shortly after I purchased the tractor.  I replaced the glow plugs again and they also didn't last long.  I then installed a block heater which heats the water and also a small heater from Wolverine company which actually glues on externally to the bottom of the oil pan.  Now although these products help somewhat, I was wondering if any of my good Instructable friends have had similar problems with these types of tractors and how they eliminated the problem.  The two heater items while they help, require several hours if not overnight to work.  Other than the cold weather starting problem this has been a good solid tractor.  In closing, I know these tractors are made in Belarus/Russia where the temps are far more severe than here in Southeast Missouri so I know there must be a solution.  One last thought, cold weather for these tractors is defined as any temp. below 60 degrees F.  Thanks, Debra Kay  

I have been thinking about how to build a garden tractor again i would like to be able to change from forwards to reverse very quickly, I have be thinking about how best to do this, the only solution I have thought of is a hydrostatic drive, this is far to expensive to the garden tractor I am thinking of. I think the garden tractor will be around 13 HP to give you an idea of how much power will be going through the system

My shop teacher gave me 2 old pistons from a tractor and told me make something creative outta them does anyone have any ideas???

Okay- My boyfriend thinks I'm absolutely crazy, but I would like to modify the bicycle generator a la this instructable. I was hoping to have some way to attach it to an axle of an 18 wheeler tractor. Then the trouble would be hooking up the battery to a generator so we wouldn't have to pay for gas to power the ac and tv when we're sitting still. I'm hoping some good mind out there would have some tips! Many thanks!

I am looking for ideas for a DIY front end loader/bucket for a Craftsman T80 Garden Tractor/Lawn Mower. I would prefer a 12 volt system with electric lift and electric tilt on the bucket but am very flexible on ideas.

Lawn tractors have AC alternators built around the crankshaft with a rectifyer to DC. Would a wind generator using this for the power generator work, and how much power would it make?

A few minutes ago, and immediately after I opened the acoustic tractor article on my phone I got a notification from 'Loaildo.info.lp/lp3?... saying that my phone would be locked within 1 day if I did not immediately download their 'Android Launcher update'. I suspect the article or the site has been compromised. Not sure what to make of this but I will not be opening anything from Instructables on my Android again. C Affel

Me and my gf have decided to tackle a project recently out of curiosity and boredom. My Ariens YT12 could use a new painting. I had took the angle grinder to the a$$ end of the tractor and cleaned up the rusted parts and scraped up the painted areas. I had a fight with the angle grinder for a brief few seconds and messed up my arm a bit, so I decided not to do any more grinding with the wire cup. I've since put on a couple coats of black spray enamel paint, and I've even painted over other areas too not just the rust spots, I tried to wipe down the machine with a wet cloth the best that I could. I've given it a few coats but I might have to go around yet and touch up some other spots, I DO plan on doing more painting to the frame soon, but maybe when it's nicer out and not so windy. Heres the kicker, when my gf gets home, we've already cut out some really neat looking stencils and we plan on spray-painting the hood of the tractor, I'm not sure if I should rough up the surface first or just leave it be and clean it with a wet cloth before painting. It's going to be the coolest looking hood ever (I hope if it turns out how I'm hoping). Stay tuned I'll upload MOAR pictures soon! Update!!!! I've added some more pictures I just took them after peeling the stencil off my tractor's hood. I got more paint splatter than I would have liked, but overall I'm pleased with how it came out. I have MORE pictures to come as I finish the black stripe. 2nd Update: I just peeled the painters tape off and I like how clean-cut the stripe looks, however there was some seepage and I need to touch it up. 'Should still make the neighbors jealous though. 3rd Update: I've put the hood back ON the tractor, and I think it looks pretty damn snazzy if you ask me! Check out the last picture in the list to see what I'm talking about!

I was looking at the referrals for my Airsoft Trip Mine instructable, and was led to this site: http://www.x7og.net/. Faced with a long list of forums, I browsed under the "Alternative Weapons" category, hoping to find a post containing my trip mine (haven't found it yet). What I found, however, can only be described as the epitome of pure DIY paintball awesomeness. A team of people built a working paintball tank out of tractor parts and various other things. It's so epic, I just had to show it to you all. Here is the forum that documents the making of the tank:http://www.x7og.net/alternative-weapons/13294-fbk-tank-ny.htmlEdit:Woohoo! My mine was mentioned twice! :D http://www.x7og.net/alternative-weapons/18028-need-design-baby-powder-pressure-mine-2.htmlEdit Edit:Goodness me! More tanks! http://www.x7og.net/alternative-weapons/5438-paintball-assault-vehicles-thread.html

My old tractor work with magnet but i need to make it work better

'Cause if I simply put chicken wires in the ground they cannot scratch off the ground, wich is a quite important part of the 'cleaning process' we look for, isnt it? i eard about staking fences on the ground laying 50cm all around to make long and difficult way for the rats to dig under And why not even sharping the stakes to be nastier... ? But if someone have more simple ideas, for more easy ;ooving and maintenance... A good challenge! thanks

Hello all - just a heads up for people to keep an eye out for this event which will take place in the UK at the start of May 2011. If you'd like to follow a unique adventure this is the place for you. We can't say what it is yet but please if you have a twitter account please follow us for up-dates. Our twitter is MDChallenge, all will be clear very soon. Our Facebook and Mypace will be up soon too.

I am looking for some help in designing a simple pulley system to lift my Garden Tractor Cab off my John Deere Riding Tractor and store it in my garage. It's a hard roof on my all-weather cab and weighs about 150 pounds max. I would be attaching it to the roof of my garage (both cab doors come off). I want to be able to back the tractor into the garage..and have this system allow me to lift it off, raise to the ceiling and store it until next winter. I have a bad arm so it's tough for me to manage it without this. thanks!

The storm that swept through Ohio last Friday (seems like an eternity ago) took out our power. It may not be restored until sometime next week (ah, life in the country). We are used to this sort of thing in the winter and are prepared for it. However, we are not prepared to deal with it when it is this hot. I have a small generator that can run a fan and a few lights and am prepared to sacrifice the contents of the fridge. My generator doesn't put out enough power to run a window AC unit much less our central AC unit. My neighbor has a gas powered generator that is big enough to do the trick but he is pouring so much money into the tank that he might as well stay at a hotel. So anyhow I looked into getting a PTO driven generator to run off my Kubota BX1500 (think diesel engined, 4wd lawn mower on steroids rather than tractor-it's a tiny little thing). It really doesn't burn all that much fuel and it offers the option of using home brewed biodiesel (damn the Tax Man-full speed ahead!). Here's the rub though: you need about 2 hp/kw to run a generator off the PTO. My Kubota has about 12.5 hp. The smallest PTO driven generator I can find (Norther Tool) is a 10 KW unit. That won't work out very well. However, they also have a 2900 watt belt driven generator head that would be large enough to do the job. I suppose I could mig together an angle iron frame that will hook to the three point hitch and mount the generator head and the driven jack shaft but I don't have any experience in building belt drive units. Soooo, anybody out there have any experience in cobbling together belt drive units from scratch? The tractor's PTO shaft turns at 540 rpm but the generator really won't work right unless it turns at least 3600 rpm (interestingly the ratio works out to be 6.66 to 1, possibly not a good omen). Grainger has a large (if over priced) selection of pulleys that will get me in the ballpark. This still leaves a lot of questions though, probably more that I can think of since I have no experience in belt drive systems. I am specifically worried about how to set up the necessary bearings to support the jack shaft that connects the PTO shaft to the drive pulley. For that matter I don't know where to get a shaft that has PTO splines on one end and a keyway on the other. In any case, one of you guys have probably already done this or something pretty close to it. So how about letting the rest of us in on all the necessary tricks? Thanks!

Solar Charge Controller problem... For my university capstone project, my team and I are converting last year's DIY conversion electric tractor into a self-sustainable solar powered, electric tractor. Yes, we will be mounting solar panels on a tractor. It will not be for agricultural uses (yet) but it will operate as a campus' fleet service. We have four 12v deep-cycle batteries (total 48v) that will be charged with two 290v polycrystalline solar panels. The solar charge controller manual said that we needed a GFDI (ground-fault detector interrupter) because of an UL compliance but we learned that it's for residential installations... One of teammate was told that we should not ground the controller onto the tractor but he doesn't know why... is that true? We are all solar amateurs. We know how a car is ground and why things need to be ground, but if we don't ground the controller into the tractor, where can we ground it? Help...? Please and thank yous. :) I will gladly provide more information if needed. 

I have a 17.5 hp Tecumseh Lawn Tractor Engine that starts only on Full Choke but dies after 20 seconds or so. After I got fuel going to the cylinder, the carb started to leak fuel. According to the owner, it has never done the before. Here is the link:https://www.amazon.com/640330-640330A-Tecumseh-Carburetor-Solenoid/dp/B00LRTPGDE  This is the same carb that's on it. Please, I need help ASAP anything would be helpful!

Is it at all possible to get another new sub category added to the "Outside" Category? I would really like to get "Farming"  added as a sub category, possibly even a "Tractor" sub category as well. I have already posted a couple of tractor/farming instructables but would like to see a dedicated place for these instead of vehicles or gadgets. I will post some more help and how to with farming and tractors as time goes on.

I have garden tractor size bulldozer, and would like to add hydraulic lift to replace the manual lift. It has a 12hp engine, so it should have enough power to handle it.

I have an old tractor with a 6v system and i would like to put a 12v battery in it and for a couple other projects i would also like to know how to do this. thanks ron fancher

Ok, so I need to make a compressor that reaches 4500 psi.  I live in a farm town and my dad has a tractor so I wondered if I took two identical hydraulic cylinders and filled one with what I was compressing, and the other I powered with the tractors hydraulic system, if I would be able to achieve high pressure and fill tanks, assuming the hydraulic pump and cylinders are rated for that pressure.  Or could I just use a hydraulic compressor.

I want some suggestions on what vehicle I should make next. Im open to almost anything.

I want to build a toy farm for all my tractors and machinery. i want to make sheds farm houses fields and lanes. with trees and grass

Hello everyone, I just salvaged a small, 50AH FLA battery from a Tractor. The Battery has seen 2~3 calendar years. It was showing 11.38 Volts sitting on the shelf since 3 months so I thought it was good and I brought it for a bargain. I brought it home and connected it to my Intelligent charger which claims to support (Automatic)- Deep discharge Charging Boost Charging Absorbtion Charge Tricke Charge Equization Charge Automatic Charge Current and voltage regulation with Temperature compensated charging. The charger is currently showing "Boost charge" at about 12 Amperes. Problem is,the Charging voltage seems to Jump from 13.1v all the way to 14.2V (like under 10 sec) I hooked my DMM to the battery terminals which comfirmed the same. Sometimes the voltage also reaches 14.4v and the Charger goes into "Equalization Charge" but falls back to Boost charge at 13.5v or something odd. After 3 days for 'Cycling" I tried a eq charge twice. it seems to be improving. the Battery voltage on charge is still jumping across 13.6v to 14.2v. if I draw a load it goes back to 12.3v. admirably, I connected the Battery to our DC load yesterday night and it ran Led street lights (load 4a ) for 5 hours before I switched it off. 20AH is decent progress for 50ah old Battery right? do you think it's sulpahation that's causing voltage jump? I ran the Battery down to 11.5v yesterday. in the morning with sun up, the Battery is slowly progressing from 12.8v and above... very stably. the charger shows'absorbtion charge' at 8-9 amps. 8 amps are good for 50ah Battery right? else how do we test the ah of Battery?

Is it necessary to connect the ground wire to the center post on the switch? Or can I just attach the hot wire to both end terminals, and leave the center post bare? Trying to hook up a rolling spot sprayer to my small Kabota tractor whereas all circuits are 12 volt, I'm wiring it so the power wires can be disconnected, by way of spring clips to the battery, when not being needed. But I need to be able to contol the power to the spot sprayer from the tractor seat.

I’m planning to concrete a slab for a shed with approximate dimensions of 12m x7m. Just wondering if 150mm thick base would be suitable for driving vehicles on and possibly heavier equipmen on such as a tractor. Also with a slab that size will I need to cut expansion joints in and if so how far apart. Thankyou in advance

I am working on building a 10 hp hovercraft similar to the one published on 10 hp hovercraft. But i wanted to build it from scratch. could I use 2 tractor tires cut and glued back together.

Ok I decided to rip into my tractor today because I was bored. I knew if I ripped into the actual cylinder that it would probably look pretty horrible with the way I drive my tractor. Needless to say I was right... I want someone to tell me what I can do with this!! I have it sitting open like it is in the pictures right now and I don't wanna put it back together until someone looks at it!. Also, how do I check that the valves are working right? Can someone PLEASE look at this asap?? Also does anyone know what I could clean the cylinder top and the cover with?? Would varsol paint thinner be a bad idea because of the gasket??

I think we need a vintage tech category. Anyway, somebody emailed me this video of a cool homemade snowmobile from 1926. I found this very inspirational and would love to build a small version with a lawn mower tractor. Its on my list for sure.snowmobile of 1926

This past summer i recieved an older riding lawn tractor, without the mower deck. I tuned up the engine, replaced old worn parts, painted it up, mounted a trailer hitch, and built a snow plow for it. After realizing that i could have even more fun with it, i changed out the drive system and made it go about 25mph top speed. With the power that i aquired, i want to put a blinker/ hazard signal system for it. Just for fun. Using 6 12v bulbs (4 for signaling front/rear left/right, and 2 optional rear running lights), and a 12v tractor battery, i need to incorporate these to blink at either a fixed rate or variable rate, using some kind of apropriate op amp. If you have any ideas, or can whip up a schematic, i would greatly appreciate it.

I'm starting this one over, I made a mess of the last topic. Essentially what I'm starting with is a driveway wireless alert system (http://imgur.com/a/RgDeG)  and a car horn. The car horn is wired to a push button switch. (http://imgur.com/lg7Gbvj) What I'm trying to do is replace the [S] (switch) with this wireless trigger. The alarm speaker outputs at a very low voltage, ~0.08v: https://vimeo.com/75827101 The alarm LED's output 1.75v (measured from + on the one LED and - on the other, there are three total, in series) What would be the best place to tap in to get voltage from to trigger the relay? I think from the previous post I'll need a transistor switch of some sort? This is the part I need help with. Usage: Tractor pulling hayrack riders over a bridge, I'll place the sensors ahead of the horns so by the time the tractor is at the sensor the hayrack is right at the horns. Hope I posted in the right spot. Thanks

This video from YouTube user wautur shows off the Monsterbike, a brutal penny-farthing with what looks like a tractor wheel in front. According to his profile, wautur is in the Netherlands, but there's no other info on this one, sadly. Skip to 1:30 to see the bike in action. Related: Crush All Those Who Stand Before You, The Environmentally Friendly Way. via treehugger

At around midnight: my wife freaked out, but it was hardly worth being frightened about. It felt like an overloaded tractor trailer barreling down the road. Just a little vibration. I am posting this, mostly for any that felt it in my area and wanted confirmation that this actually was what happened ...The local news was right on it....Some info here

I originally posted about converting a John Deere Power Wheels tractor to remote control powered through the RPi. I decided not to for various reasons. Time was one of those reasons. Now, I have been able to come up with a large scale electric remote control vehicle. I'm looking to hook that up in a collaboration with the Raspberry Pi. I have some ideas but just wanted to get some opinions and maybe even a difficulty rate as for as programming and so forth. Any help will be much appreciated!

I just picked up a electric wheelchair from Freecycle. It appears to be a 24VDC setup and I haven't tested it yet. It looks like I will have to get some batteries since the original ones are dead. My first idea is a trailer tractor. Like this: http://www.powercaster.com/ --used to help pull a trailer around by hand. Does anyone have any more ideas?

We are having some electrical problems with a john deere tractor, and received an error codes 61f, 018, 023, 026, 049, and 051. These error codes are not cleared when the problem goes away, and from memory, the first few meant low fluids at some point, and one of the later ones is indicating the output of the alternator is outside of normal operating range. The problems experienced: * The tractor would start, and "lunge" forward but never actually go any go further than 4 feet. * reverse does absolutely nothing. * hydraulics work fine * Engine would start in any gear, when it should only start in neutral. * Replaced a few dead fuses and a missing relay but these did not change anything important. * oil / hydraulic fluid was very low, we fixed that. * this lunging behavior was intermittent before, only requiring some wiggling of the gear shift. * requires jumping in order to get started. Does not always crank fast enough by itself to start on its own. Today, we plan to test the alternator to see what's going on there, It is rated to deliver 115 charging amps to a huge 12V battery. what is the best way to test this with a basic multimeter or some basic around the house parts? I measured the voltage across the battery rise from 12V up to 14V, so it would seem that it's fine, but I'm going to take that with a grain of rice. Is there a better way to measure the alternator? 

Hi there, My son just received a bunch of older K'nex but without the instruction booklets.  Any ideas on how to get booklets from the early 90's.  Their website wasn't helpful.  I need booklets for GIANT SET that has over 1800 pieces that includes instructions for Tractor Cab, Centerpost Crane and more.    Also for the intermediate set that has 770 pieces that will build an airplane, ferris wheel and monster truck.  I will take photo copies and would be happy to pay for the copies, shipping and trouble.  thank you!!  My son just loves to build and he will create what he can.

Hello all; I figure if anybody could help me with this, it would be here. I need a simple gearbox to connect a 8hp horizontal shaft gas engine to a propeller shaft, for installation in an 18ft crabbing skiff. I dont think I need any step down or up gears, just forward, neutral and reverse. Again, simplicity is the key. Any lawn tractor or riding mower I have looked at typically have the geabox/trans incorporated into the rear axle, and I don't want all those belts running around my bare feet. Any body got any ideas? Thanks- NHSHARPIE57@YAHOO.com