Question by transistor 12v | last reply
Hi all../ Please help me by tell me what kind of UV led ( the WAVELENGTH) for better see water glow in the dark ( water + highlighter pen ) with this color (please see photo)Because in Ebay sale some different UV led wavelength 390 to 410 nm . Many thank you.
Question by lam | last reply
Hi all, I'd appreciate some feedback on my UV screen project. As a relatively new blog I have effectively zero traffic there, so I thought I'd ask for some feedback here. The goal of the project is to provide an easy way of converting a record player to a UV screen (as pictured). The idea is to replicate the appearance "Death calls the tune" project by Lab Binaer, although I'm avoiding using an arduino in an attempt to keep costs down. The ultimate goal is an instructable, but before that stage I hope to work a bit more on the available functionality (currently it will just write text to the screen, each phrase being written alternately in one of three positions). Here are some planned but as-yet unimplemented short term goals; Investigate replacing the serial connection with V-USB New modes (Bar graph output , Seismograph style output, Spiral text) New stylus using SMD LEDs (currently uses 5mil) Offload all settings to XML file Slow rotor speed further I'd be appreciative if you could offer ideas for new functionality, uses, modifications, any thoughts or comments. Thanks, Drew
Topic by andy | last reply
Hi, I need some UV paint that is inviable under normal light that turns bright white under blacklights. I will painting it on a giant hanging sign. I need a recipe for some uv paint or a cheap source of it. It looks like it cost around $70 dollars for 1 gallon and I need around 3 gallons of it. I know that you can use tonic water but I don't have experience using it (How bright will it glow). Also you can use laundry detergent but I dont know if it will show in normal. The key is it to not glow the under normal light and for it glow brightly under uv light, and it needs to be cheap. Any one have any experience with uv lights, paints, or other related things. Any comments are welcome. Thanks for your time. Joe R
Topic by joejoerowley | last reply
I wear eyeglasses and like having the photochromatic lenses. But the problem is, while using them in my car, when I need them most, the UV protection built into my cars windshield and windows, prevent my glasses from turning dark. My question is : Can a small, battery powered or car powered, light array be built using UV producing LEDs, assuming there IS such a thing, that can be switched "on" to make my photochromatic lenses turn dark while driving? Maybe have it clip onto the sunvisor, or attached to the overhead center console, aimed toward my face. Thanks
Topic by wolfsmane | last reply
Alright less of what kind I need more than what will work. I want to buy one of those LED work lights (that go for around 40 bucks) to UV, however according to this list I would need 365 nm LEDs http://www.riskreactor.com/Black_Lights_UV_LEDs/Black_Lights_UV_LEDs_Main.htm so my question is, would it be better to go with 365 nm? Thing is those are way more expensive than 380 nm leds, but you can do some neater stuff with them. So, would it be worth spending the extra on them, and do any of you know a place I can get them that don't charge a ridiculous amount for them? Also, would it be a good idea to perhaps mix the LEDs that way I get the stuff you can do in 380 nm and 365 nm? would that work?
Question by XOIIO | last reply
I am trying to figure out a way to make a switch that is activated by a UV light. I have looked all over the web and cannot find a thing on this subject. The reason that I am trying to do this is that I recently purchased a Sonic Screwdriver that has a IV light in the end and I was wanting to make it turn on/off things with the push of a button.
Question by Ben Torok | last reply
I was wondering if this is doable, or even practical for that matter. So I read up on lasers and from what I can tell it is a form of light in which the wave frequencies are perfectly aligned. So I was wondering if you aligned UV light wave frequencies, would you get a laser that would burn stuff, and not to sound morbid, but in high quantaties, kill people. (Only for the sheer exitement of figuring something out am I posting this. I do not in any way want to kill someone.)
Topic by vroom...vroom... | last reply
Right, I've cut it fine on the deadline, so I'm giving my Invisible Costume Instructable a shameless plug here = got to get the view-count up somehow ;-)If you need any incentive to have a look, it's the costume I failed to make in time for the Hallowe'en contest. Go see what you nearly missed.Why are you still reading this? go, click, get my view-count up!
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hi, I would like to build a germicidal lamp which is powered by USB for a school assignment that I'm doing and I was wondering if someone could help. I did a search on a trading site to see the type of lamps and there seems to be 3 types, cold cathode, quartz and ones which actually look like bulbs. Which type can be easily wired so that it can be powered by a USB port? Advice will be appreciated.
Topic by egrayton | last reply
I'm making a USB solar charger intended to last 20 years. It will have no batteries inside, just a voltage reg and a zener diode. The solar cells will be wired together under glass, not epoxy (for better lifespan). I want the frame to be made of wood, but how long will that last in direct sunlight? This solar charger will contain no plastics, polymers, or resins...so my only choice for a frame is glass and wood. THANK YOU SO MUCH!! -Nepheron PS. I chose wood because it is very opaque, and I reasoned that it may be fairly UV resistant... But IDK.
Question by nepheron | last reply
I was told by a few people that UV filters are useless on a digital camera. I also listened to the sales guy when I bought a DSLR just recently and he said "No they serve no purpose for the pics with a digital camera, but it adds a layer of protection to the front lens. UV filters are cheap, I bought it based on the salesman's advice. Yesterday it paid for itself . I was getting ready to take some pics of the neighbors new sports car and he was showing off, spinning the tires when it happened. The filter just all the sudden shattered. It had to be from a rock, but I could not find one anywhere.... anyway... The camera lens is fine and has a brand new UV filter on.
Topic by SlickSqueegie | last reply
I am currently modifying an iBook G3 so that, among other things, it will be fluorescent orange. Currently, when the computer sleeps, a white LED illuminates through the casing. Since the casing will now be fluorescent, I would like to replace the white surface mount LED with an ultraviolet one, so that the case will glow as the computer is sleeping. I was wondering if someone could help me out by telling me where I might be able to purchase an ultraviolet surface mount LED? P.S. The image included will be stenciled and mirrored on each side of the apple on the top of the iBook.
Topic by Ora | last reply
I have a plan for an Instructable, and it needs several UV LEDs. #1 son has a toy sonic screwdriver with a UV LED for showing up secret messages. However, it is also quite visibly purple.Can anybody recommend UV LEDs that emit the most UV and least visible light?
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I'm building a UV(A) 365nm powerLED lamp and need to protect the leds without loosing performance. Does anybody know of a plastic to protect the led without blocking the uv, glass is to fragile (and blocks), it's for heavy use.
Question by Fonnie | last reply
Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
How can i make invisible ink which is visible under UV light?
Question by shehabshameer | last reply
Does it generate a higher level of UV radiation than a regular florescent lamp or just "filter out" visible light with colored glass like the incandescent black lights? Should I worry about extended exposure to the skin or eyes? Thanks.
Question by C2H6 | last reply
I am trying to make a hidden trail that can only be followed with a black light. This will essentially be done by following a series of "bread crumbs" that are only visible in the UV spectrum. I've had some success with a highlighter; the bark soaks up the ink, making it invisible to the naked eye. It's lasted a few rainy days, but I am not certain it will last for (at least) several months. I was wondering if there is another way to do this, one that is a little more weatherproof.
Question by Spl1nt3rC3ll | last reply
I know there is already some similar posts but i couldnt find anything relating specifically like this. I got a flood light with the intention of turning it into a flood black light. I want to light up a basketball court sized room using 4 at most. I have a few questions: 1) Is there any way to add anything to the front to turn this in to a black light (Don't need it to be UV rays as I know it's not likely. I just want it to make things fluoresce when it shines on them)? I'm looking at doing something similar to the sharpie black light hack. 2) This light puts good clear light for more the 40 yards. If there were a way to mod it into a black light, how much will it affect the range of good light? 3) Is there any way to connect the lighting to a battery pack or some sort of regular 3 pronged plug?
Topic by DavidK52 | last reply
Here is what I got when I fired up the project in total darkness......it needs tweaking, which I will do this weekend and hopefully publish then. WOW ! Is this ever taking a LONG time (and back breaking work at my bench). Had I thought ahead, I would have saved myself a LOT of trouble and gotten myself some LED sockets....soldering over 90 pairs of leads is tedious at best.....
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
I'm making a Sun Jar, but I want to swap out the normal white LED for a UV LED. My plan is to spray the inside of the jar with invisible UV reactive paint, so when then LED comes out, the jar suddenly starts glowing a different color. I tried making one tonight, but wasn't happy with the results. I was using the black plastic Hampton Bay light from Home Depot - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId;=100068888&langId;=-1&catalogId;=10053&ci;_sku=100068888&ci;_src=14110944&cm;_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D27X-_-100068888&locStoreNum;=1002&marketID;=48. It's only powered by 1 AA battery, and the resulting glow from the LED was really dim. I got no reaction at all from the UV reactive ground marking paint I was using in my test. Any suggestions?
Topic by mikejstein | last reply
Our local (I think) news service has done a story about CFL's emitting too much UV radiation, You can view it here.Would you rather sit under an incandescent light or a CFL for a extended period of time?Do you think they should have warning labels on them?Do you have any other opinions on CFL's and energy saving globes?Or do you think this is all just a way to get more people to but the old incandescent bulbs?
Topic by thermoelectric | last reply
Hello there! I am planing to make a duplicate of CND led nail lamp (image 1) . I have an older normal UV lamp (image 2). I have the led Bulbs and the driver for them anid bought relay timer from ebay and the 12v transformer. But the hard part is to make the exact programs. The CND lamp has 4 buttons witch are different programs. 1st - 10 seconds flashing. 2nd - 60 seconds from witch only the first 10 seconds is flashing. 3rd - 60 seconds on. 4th - same like 2nd program. How can i make the programs i have bought and buttons witch i will install?
Topic by IvoIvan0v | last reply
What resistor(s) would I use for this (http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtJ8nYvfCigMnhPGGOZPOa2uZUDzR6R8VM%3d) UV LED? I'll be using 3 of them in a row with a 9v power supply, would I wire it to be battery - resistor - UV LED - resistor - UV LED - resistor - UV LED - battery? Or something like battery - resistor - UV LED - UV LED - UV LED - battery?Thanks!
Question by sciguy77 | last reply
I'm in need of a couple dozen battery powered "throwie" styled (read: super simple) UV light emitting LED's for a board game prototype. The devices (12 total) will be built into simple chipboard player pieces on a stand. I'd like the entire piece (including the chipboard and stand) to be no larger that 1" x 2" x 1", but here is the catch! Each piece will start with 3 pegs placed in the stand (a la the classic board game "Life") that keep the light on as long as there is at least 1 peg in. Don't know if this would mean they are pressing a button or completing the circuit, but whichever is safest is ideal! I also need a 2nd version that will operate with a simple on/off switch or button that can be housed in a small piece of foam core board (.25" thick, approx. 2"x 2" piece). I need 12 of these as well. Concept sketch attached, but more detailed information will be provided upon inquiry. I would need them to be completed and delivered by Friday, June 8th, 2012. Thanks in advance for your help (whoever the helpful soul may be!)!
Topic by theharperimage | last reply
Inspired by the GRL i've thought of a cool idea for some graffiti:Overview:Using clear, or almost clear UV paint in 1 or 2 colors do a artsy stencil somewhere.then using a solar garden light, switch the LED for a UV and waterproof the wires and board somehow and find a way to attch so its hidden or out of reach.I would want to do this on the side of an overpass, perferably metal so i can use magnets to place things wherever i want. The panel would charge the singe rechargable AA (might mod to last longer) and then after it got dark enough the UV would show the work for a few hours untill it drained the battery.What i need help with:will paint like this ( http://www.clearneon.com ) be bright enough, any other suggestions for paint that won't be obvious unless its lit up.Will the UV LEDs be enough to see the art from a car driving below?any general mods or ideas to improve it?
Topic by aaronx | last reply
What I want to do is remove the phosphor screen of a CRT and see what happens if I hit it with intense UV light. I know I've got to look out for high voltage, and that if I don't let pressure into the vacuum very slowly with a small hole the glass will shatter and spray shrapnel everywhere. I'm also concerned about mercury/lead and any dangerous chemicals I'll be exposing myself to. Can someone explain the dangers and what I can do to avoid them?
Question by kramerr
Since I live in northern Michigan, I pretty much hang out indoors for a majority of the year due to ''Frozen Winter Hell''. It's been sunny these last couple of days, and I managed to bake my paper white skin :( The only reason I'm able to even type this question is because this burn is located exclusively on my neck. Last year my itchy sunburn covered my whole back...it was like being stung by 10,000 killer bees for 3 straight days...my agonized screams certainly disturbed the neighbors. I'm sure some of you have experienced the whole itchy sunburn madness...how have you dealt with it? Oh, and I drew a picture of the sun for inspiration:
Question by nepheron | last reply
I did some research and saw other instructables that showed how to possibly create a UV sterilization. I read that UV light in the 230 and 360 range can break down Chlorine and Chloramines. I was curious if someone could share how to create a UV de-chlorinating chamber (2-5 gallons) with the use of UV LEDs. For safety purposes I was thinking of a plastic 5 gal bin, where placing the top on the bin completes the circuit to expose the water to the UV light in a safe manner. how many would be needed? how long would water need to be exposed?
Question by jc.021286 | last reply
I wanna build a light to plug into my laptop powered by usb thats UV led's to light the keyboard and have either changing to red light or multi-colored lights. Or just keepin it UV and strobing
Topic by ddude04 | last reply
The long awaited finishing of the Scorpion that a young aspie friend and I built together is complete: I have installed the UV LED, and circuitry AND coated the insides with clear coat UV reactant paint....so it glows both after the UV light is turned on, and also in the dark.
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
I need some full ultraviolet LEDs for a project. I've found some, but they don't output light completely in th UV range. These lights also put out visible violet light; I need them to give me invisible UV light. The wavelength that they put out needs to be around 300nm-350nm. Thanks.
Question by DIY Emilio | last reply
I have a canopy structure/carport that I wish to use as a wind and sun shelter for Burning Man, but I don't know if it's UV proof (I no longer have the box and the instruction book calls it a "canopy" not a "carport" and doesn't mention UV at all). The cover is white polyethylene tarp, which has to be specially treated for UV protection, I think. Does anyone know of a simple way to test for UV protection?
Question by kyle.marsh | last reply
In step 5 of this Instructables he places and IR/UV filter over the halogen bulb in the projector to prevent the screen from fadeing and keep the temperature down. Does anyone know where to find a filter like this? I have been looking around the internet and at a couple of hardware stores and haven't found anything. ,Dan
Question by TheCheese9921 | last reply
Hey guys, im in the process of making a UV LED Light Box for PCB making, im planning on using an arduino nano. the picture is how i plan to wire everything (i used EveryCircuit btw) but i cant seem to make the circuit work in real life, any advice? thanks in advane
Topic by Rafael_RMoreira | last reply
Using a 12 UV LED flashlight head for another use. Flashlight runs on 3 - AAA batteries and I want to use in an application where it is driven by a 9V battery. I don't know how to get mA info for a flashlight head to calc a resistor. Anybody have info that would help?
Question by Super_Dave | last reply
after reading the capri sun welding instructable i was thinking of making an outdoor tarp out of them to cover my lawnmowers. maybe even putting it on the roof in summer to reflect heat and reduce cooling costs. my kids love these things so i have a lot of them.
Question by dannemillerd | last reply
Hey ho,I rigged up a lighting display for some glow-in-the-dark memorabilia, using a 12V 5A power supply adapter (intended for LED strip rope lights) and some 5050 LED waterproof strips (trimmed down to 156 lights). I asked around and was told I didn't really need to add resistance so I just soldered them cleanly into the display and added an AC power switch between the plug and the power supply.Everything looked fantastic for a few weeks, but over the last few days they seem to have faded... they are much closer to a mild, neutral white than the strong UV-only brightness they originally provided (fluorescent colors popped, GITD toys glowed nicely). There are a few places on the strips that have come to illuminate with a warmer, yellowy light. Before I purchase some new ones and prepare to replace these, is this a common issue with cheap light strings, or possibly something in the power supply I should check first? Do I need to add some resistance between the power supply and the lights?Thanks! -Spunky
Question by Spunk-Monkey | last reply
I got the AT27C040 that is a 4-Mbit "EPROM" without a window. After reading the datasheet, I was wondering: Why an Erasable PROM would not be housed in a package with a window? Is there any way I can erase it other than drilling a hole in it? (I've heard that you can 'refresh' the EPROM to get the same result as UV) Should I Just return the thing if there is a way to do so?
Question by Adrian Zayez Kelly | last reply
How bright does a light have to be before it will distract / confuse / attract moths at night? What is the best colour of light? Would "white" LEDs do the job, or would UV LEDs work better? How many?
Question by Kiteman | last reply
What could I use to roll red hot glass into(so it will stick to the glass) that will help it block ultraviolet light(aside from broken/crushed glass that's already UV resistant) and will let the glass stay relatively clear and colorless?
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
Question by nklharish1 | last reply