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This AMAZING GLaDOS Robot was built by Nick Liksys (tabun.everypony.ru) is a 1:20 scale version of everyone's favorite AI sociopath from Portal 2.  Nick has worked on her for one hour ever since the game came out and built her using servos, accelerometers, controllers, and thirty yards mounting wires.  This is a truly fantastic reconstruction and her movements and voice match very accurately to the game.   You can check out his photo link here: http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/mdevaev/album/188552/

Alright, I'm trying to make a replica of the Halo 3 Magnum (Yes, I know that technically it's not a Magnum but I don't feel like trying to remember the real name) and I already have the base cardboard cutout for it, but I realized that what I was going to do is a little more complicated than I thought. Originally I had seen someone who built an Assault rifle and Splazer out of just cardboard by having the basic shape in the middle and then layering it on both sides in certain areas in order to make it 3D. I was wondering though what other ways of making models are there that's fairly "easy" for a fanboy to do. "Easy" by means of accessibility; I know whatever I do is goin to take some amount of work to do, but I don't want someone telling me to use a vacuform machine. I just need to know if there's any ways of making replicas that doesn't require extravagant amounts of money or resources.

I'm working on a Halloween prop (though, with what little time I already have, it looks as if I will have to use it next year), a part of which is supposed to be a metal torsion spring. I am at a loss for ideas that would look real. I suppose whatever it is, I could paint it silver. Any help would be appreciated!

All right, I admit it. I liked Batman Forever, and still do. I also liked the "Box," which was the film's signature gadget. (And no, I don't count the Batarangs--they're equipment. The Box is a gadget in the purest sense of the word.) To that end, I decided to build a replica of the Box last summer. It's still not finished--I need to work out lighting, a motor, and the lower coils. (EL wire, maybe?) By the way, I'm posting it on the forum first because it's still a work in progress. I have no Monet to buy Degas to made de Van Gogh, as it were... YOU WILL NEED: One clear 28-oz. tumbler, acrylic (I got mine from Jewel for $1 last year...I don't know if they still carry 'em) One 20-oz. tumbler, acrylic (I got mine from Walgreen's last year...ditto) Two super-size cup lids from McDonald's One large bottle of Gesso One bottle of gold paint (Antique Gold works best) One bottle of green glow-in-the-dark paint A really long paintbrush, preferably made of foam A normal paintbrush The wings are made of a piece of foam I had lying around...I need to get them made specially. It's also got some Christmas-wreath lights stuck inside, just for the picture. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ SO: For the 28-oz. tumbler, first you need to thin your Gesso out with water. This will allow you, later, to add the paint in such a way that light can shine through. Then, you will want to paint the INSIDE of the tumbler with Gesso, and then with the green paint. Simple as that. For the 20-oz. tumbler, you can leave the Gesso thick if you wish. Depends on your preferences, really...Then, you'll want to paint the outside of the 20-ouncer with the gold paint. With me so far? Then, you'll want to glue the two McDonald's lids together for a bit of sturdiness. I recommend Gorilla Glue for this. When that sets, you'll want to paint the outside and the inside with Gesso. The outer lid is gold in color; the inner lid is black. This prevents light from shining through the lid, which could give the game away. WINGS: As for me, I cut a pair of 11 3/4" oblong triangles from foam for the wings. They're not stable at all, but at least you get the basic idea of what it is. I stacked the 28-oz. tumbler on top of the 28-oz. tumbler, put the lids on, and stuck the wings on with tape. It's a crude mockup, but it works for now. I put the Christmas-wreath lights inside just make it look like it's doing something. I'm thinking about adding a "Fusion" light from Windy City Novelties for the finished result. The final version of this will involve some very tricky wiring--I want to wire the light-up gadget and the motor to one switch or button. If any of you have suggestions, the mailbox is open and waiting. I've very little technical experience, and would like as much input as possible from anyone who knows something.

I just built a small CNC machine to add to my workshop and was wondering if anyone has the build plans for a colt python. I would like to build an all wooden 1:1 scale replica, swing out cylinder and all. I spent hours scouring the Internet, and have found nothing of a suitable quality. So, anyone got a .dxf file(s) I can work with, or at least some accurate drawings I can take measurements from? Thanks in advance.

To make this question as short as possible, I'll get straight to the point. I am making a replica of a weapon from a game from wood, however the blade is quite large. Its a kind of battleaxe (see picture below) however I'm having a hard time finding a way to get quite a big piece of wood to slope to a point like a blade would. So basically I want to make a large piece of wood into a long wedge shape but I cant figure out how to do it. As you can see in the picture, using the hand on the handle for size reference, it is quite a large blade. The tools I have in my workshop are: A table saw, a band saw, a scroll saw, mitre saw, drills, handsaws, and chisels. (these are the only tools I think would come in handy, I do not have any tools such as a belt sander, though I do have an orbital sander if that helps) Any help it appreciated! Thanks.

Advanced Iron forum member TMP just completed his custom Iron Man costume just in time for the film's theatrical premiere. Incredible work! Just look at all those details!!!TMP says he spent $1500-2000 on the material compound alone, never-mind months of trial and error. Via Cool Stuff in SlashfilmIt looks a bit bulky, but it makes sense, a real metal costume would look much rougher than it does in the film (The movie's costume was made of rubber, so it could be more dynamic)It doesn't look as extreme as the film, but it certainly looks more real. Now, if only it could fly......Maybe we can expect more next year?There's quite a buzz for DIY Iron-Man costumes this year.

I am looking for someone with brass work skills to help me with a project. I am trying to do a menorah as a replica from the one in Israel but no nothing about it

 Well, after a long hiatus of doing Minecraft and other stuff, I am finally back. I've have been working on K'nex on and off; I just haven't been posting stuff. I've got a working drum magazine and gun that is almost done, and there are some other guns lying around as well (Don't worry Red, I've still got that Berreta ARX-160.) Anyway, I thought as a kind of comeback to building and posting on 'Ibles, I would let you guys decide on what I should build. I'll take requests on replicas also. Be sure to leave a suggestion!

Hey guys, I have a challenge to the good model makers on Instructables.  I need a small replica airplane for a project I'm working on. The smaller the better, the more detailed the better. Feel free to use whatever knex parts you want: minis, bricks, ect...   I could probably build one myself, but I'll give some of you guys the chance to help me out and work with me. Plus I really don't like building models.  If yours is the best I'll private message you what I'm building, or send you a patch, or whatever you want. I really don't care.  I just want to work with some of the new people here.  Anyone is welcome. Just post a picture and I'll pick which one will work best.  Remember smaller the better. Thanks guys, I'm excited to see what we come up with. Killer~SafeCracker

Hey guys, I have a challenge to the good model makers on Instructables.  I need a small replica airplane for a project I'm working on. The smaller the better, the more detailed the better. Feel free to use whatever knex parts you want: minis, bricks, ect...   I could probably build one myself, but I'll give some of you guys the chance to help me out and work with me. Plus I really don't like building models.  If yours is the best I'll private message you what I'm building, or send you a patch, or whatever you want. I really don't care.  I just want to work with some of the new people here.  Anyone is welcome. Just post a picture and I'll pick which one will work best.  Remember smaller the better. Thanks guys, I'm excited to see what we come up with. Killer~SafeCracker?

Hello, I occasionally make simple props for a guy with an events company. He is the most unorganised man that I have ever met but manages to pull it all together in the end and I love the chaos of working with him. This time he wants a Landspeeder; he is going to buy an electric car of some sort and we will strip it and build on it. At first I thought that he wanted a faithful replica and showed him this; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij4l2l1LsmI It was the only useful thing that I could find on the internet and shows a replica that took a professional six weeks using fibre glass. He agrees that we will not manage that in the timespan and that the measurements will depend on the car that he has not bought yet. I know that he will just turn up and say " we have a weekend to do this; any ideas ? " It's the nacelles that I am interested in; as a quick build, I think three plywood discs, wooden strut supports and a metal skin, as shown; and then use that shape as a base Any better ideas or better still, is there anything out there in the world that could be appropriated; like a plastic IKEA planter for example ? Thanks FOH He also wants a hover motor bike in the same weekend.

Does anyone think they can make a well working replica for this gun made out of K'Nex?  I myself could probably make this, but due to a recent fire, I'm low on K'Nex, so I'd like to know if anybody is capable of doing that. This was the only picture I was able to find so sorry if it's a bit unclear.

This forumn is about the production of knex halo weapons. Its bout designing and making actuall working replica s of HALO GUNS!!!! :D YAY

I need a diagram for a PVC tear gas grenade launcher for a prop replica I'm working on.

This is my first replica of a gun. it really does look like the real thing. i choose the halo 1 magnum because its a nice clean gun to replicate. not that bad for my first replica, is it? pros... 12 round magazine like the real thing. true trigger. comfy handle. good power. looks realistic cons... it might jam. (occasionally) trigger needs broken green rod or y connector. (optional, but it makes the gun work smoother)

I was trying to build an M4 with a charging handle, but it failed, so I broke it. Anyways, What would be the best way to put a realistic charging handle on a working M4A1 carbine replica?

This is my replica of Ichigos tensa zangetsu or bankai from bleach. I has taken me 3 months to build this and I put a lot of hard work into this baby and I hope you enjoy it. Thx.

I work at a speech training center, and I need to illustrate how to make certain sounds. I thought the best way was to use an adjustable tongue and cheek model. Doesn't have to be a real replica of a tongue, just something to illustrate the tongue and cheek positions for different sounds. Needs to be adjustable. Any ideas? Thanks.

I'm a photographer and want to create incredible pieces for the female models I work with. How would I recreate the headpiece portion of this? I don't need it as detailed or a replica. I'm asking about the concept itself.

What would you guys think of a working K'nex revolver replica? I mean like a 6-shooter?With a chamber and everything? I'm still trying to find something to do for my first Instructable but I don't want it to have been done before. So far as I know there isn't one. There are a couple of revolvers but they are not based on any real guns. Or I am just a weird-o and have never seen an 8-shooter.

Hey guys! I''m having a contest, in which you guys must post (on this 'instructable') a knex pistol. I will choose the winner. It will last until Christmas Morning. The gun must be one you made yourself, and you can enter more than one. No Repeats!!! I will check on this once a week. The gun doesn't have to be a replica, just a good, solid, working pistol.

Hey guys! Well, here is my most recent replica, the M14 (T44). It is, by far, one of my favorite rifle types, as is seen by that fact that it is my third attempt at this rifle type (M14/M21). This gun turned out better than I had expected... even though it was originally intended to be a M21. I am still working on the conversion process, but as it stand now, it is a M14/T44. With its 20 rd. magazine, sturdy body and stock, nice sight set, and improved stock, this thing is probably one of my best guns, when it comes to my replicas at least. Features: It looks just like a M14/T44 Good range: 40 - 70 ft. Magazine lock included Sturdy body and stock Large capacity magazine (if you use rods) 20 -30 Really comfortable Great pin-pull Can be easily modded into a M21, just slap a scope on it Enjoy, and tell me what you think. -The Red Book of Westmarch

I've been wanting to build a Stargate helmet for a very long time but there was no way I could spend the cash to sculpt one in clay and do a fiberglass casting in a silicone mold so I had to improvise by using cardstock, paper mache and foam. I really wasn't going for screen accuracy as this is intended to be a costume helmet instead of an accurate replica. When I set out to build this I wanted it to be light weight, low cost and most importantly I wanted it to move. I still have quite a bit of work left to do- I still need to add the glowing eyes and do some filling, sanding and detail work plus paint. Watching it move for the first time was just awesome. :) <br>

I dont know if anyone is familiar with the Star Wars Old republic T3-M3 Droid. I have just stated building a full size replica of this Droid but could do with some advice on the neck mechanism. The head is going to be reasonably heavy but I want it to be able to pan, tilts and rotate reasonably fast. I have looked at using servos to control the pan and tilt and motor to rotate or i could use linear actuators. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could build a simple but effective system, or even better have any working models of drawings I could look at to get some inspiration, I have builders block.

Hi guys! I'm building a dtm series racing steering (replica) and i have 11 push buttons plus 1 rotary encoder with push so 14 inputs in total. I'm able to make it work with an Arduino pro micro but i want to make it wireless! Bluetooth is in my mind for this project. I was looking for the bluefruit ez-key but it's discontinued so the feather line are probably the way to go Now but there's more than one models that are bluetooth and i want to choose the right one for my project! If someone can recommend me one ore even other brand. I'll need all the stuff like lipo battery, charging board .. thanks!

I bought a cheap replica of Apple's Universal Ipod Dock, which has a line out (includes an LM4811 amp chip). My goal is to convert the headphone amp to a decent speaker amp -- similar to the Altoids Tin Speaker (https://www.instructables.com/id/Altoids-Tin-Speaker/), but without the battery or switch. I want all of the power to go through the dock's PCB, so I'm trying to avoid as much as I can an extra power source just to power the amp.This is part of a larger project that I've been working on for a while (and learning as I go)I can provide pictures later on of the dock's PCB if anyone wants to take a look.

I'm not real familiar to the in depth functioning of the Theremin, but I think I have the general gist of how it works. Specifically, I was wondering If it was possible to use a Theremin to change the pitch of a sonic screwdriver. One of my qualms with sonic screwdriver replicas is that they lack the changing pitch of the screwdriver in the show (Doctor Who, to the uninitiated). After reading about Theremins, I wondered if one could be built into the case of a sonic screwdriver (DIY with metal case) allowing the pitch of the sound to be altered in relation to its proximity to the users hand(s) and the environment. Has anyone ever heard of something like this being done?

Attention all Doctor Who fans! Here is something that ought to get you all thinking - the 10th Doctor's Sonic Screwdriver (which works in the dark... heh heh, get it? Only Whovians would get that...). The original idea came from my youngest brother, who is a big Doctor Who fan, and while this "replica" is not very accurate (it is hard to get very accurate with such K'NEX pieces as I have), it does look pretty good all the same. What do you guys think? -The Red Book of Westmarch

Ok ive been knex'ing for a little bit ive decided that i like pistols the most. my favorite being the M1911 and beretta 92fs but the king of all pistols the desert eagle i have seen every replica of this gun/guns (including the other two) and none of them work like them. if im correct selezonias M1911 looks real but no mag in the handle and no slide. i havent seen a beretta yet. and the desert eagle no one has actually made one that works like the real one (back slide action) the closest gun ive seen is ironman's i forget which one so i want everyone to tell me which one i should build. your vote would be very helpful.

Hey all- back again. my time machine is giving me grief again for an unknown reason. I got my drive (seagate replica 2tb) about a month ago, and it has worked great until now. I split the drive (not a partition) into 2 parts, one for my itunes library, and one for my backups (this was about 1.5 weeks ago). Last time I checked it (3 days ago) it worked fine. I accidentally left my computer on while we were gone for a few days- and now that I have come back my backups fail. It says that my drive is read only now. I have checked and it says my last backup was they 25th at 12:08 AM, so its been about 24 hours since the last backup. I try to repair the drive in disk utility but it fails and tells me to restore the drive. I can access all my itunes data on the volume on the same drive, but my backups wont work. Anyone know how to fix this?

I've never made a mold of anything before, but I have a statue that I would like to make a replica of. The statue is about 18 inches tall, 5 to 6 inches wide at its widest and 6 inches deep at its deepest. It also sits on a 2 inch high 10x12 base, but I don't really need to cast the base, I could fabricate a new one very easily. I read the featured instructable for making silicon molds and it was very useful, but I think silicon would be very expensive for this big an object. At least 3 gallons, I'm thinking. That would run at least 300-500 dollars, and I'm looking to spend more like 50-75. Is there another technique, or another material I could use? My sculpture I think is cast from resin, and I'm fairly sure it's at least partially hollow. It's not intricately detailed, but it's hand painted, so I don't want to use anything that will damage it. Could plaster work? Rubber? Cheaper kinds of silicon? What sort of material would be best to cast the replica out of once the mold is done? I'm open to any kind of material, in fact I'll probably try a few different ones. Plaster, resin, maybe plastic or even rubber if that won't harm the mold.

I had posted this on another forum asking for advice as well, but I haven't received a reply in days and I figured that the community there was more into the artistic craft sort of stuff. I like the engineering mindset of this community far better as I tour around here a lot looking at neat instructables, so maybe you guys can offer me some solid advice. I have a series of small metal parts with minute details on them, and I want to take them and create clay replicas of them. I want these clay replicas to essentially be spot-on accurate to the original and be durable; not brittle, heavy, and perhaps slightly flexible. Essentially, though it may sound strange, I'm working on a World War II movie project. I don't have the fire-arms necessary for it, and I don't have a reason to use real fire-arms, so I want to create dummy replicas that have believably working systems that of course are just made of clay and aren't capable of firing. I'm also of course going to create miscellaneous objects, such as papier mache helmets and whatnot. At the bottom are a few examples of what I need constructed. I don't know what type of clay would be the best for this; I can afford to have it be slightly flexible, but not rubbery. It would be handled and roughed around a lot and couldn't be brittle, lest it shatter. I also think that I would probably have to make a mold of the metal parts, but what material should I use? Some sort of molding latex, or clay? Would the clay stick to the metal, and if so, can I oil the metal to make it easy to remove, or would that interfere with the chemistry of the clay somehow? I've also considered maybe using papier mache to mold the parts, as I'm sure that it would be tough. Perhaps I could achieve this by carefully cutting the strips? I've considered that clay may not even be the best material for this, although it may certainly help with molds; tutorials on how to create molds for complex objects are also appreciated, since these have internal chambers and whatnot. Maybe I can eyeball it and cut the parts out of foam, and then coat it with some sort of hardening resin? I don't know, I'm certainly up for suggestions here. Thanks in advance! P.S. Oh, by the way, if any moderators feel that it would be better suited in the "Burning Questions" subforum feel free to move it there; I wasn't sure whether or not to post there since I simply want advice, not someone to make an instructable for me.

Well this is a little something I put together mainly for show, but also for my grandfather who wanted a full auto tommy gun! Ever since knex war 2013 he thought the Mepain's shotgun turret was a tommy gun and he thought if he got it working correctly it would be full auto and mow everyone down! Little did he know, even due to my best attempts at explaining what it is, how it works, what knex guns are actually capable of doing as of this year, he still full out believed that the tommy gun would destroy everyone. Well now his grandson has built a full auto M1A1 Thompson for show and tell this year, and even though it's very war pratical or strategic at any war scenario, it does show how far we really are from full auto weapons. Although we're an innovative a we will figure it out... eventually. So let's keep up the good work and keep innovating!                                     Now, let me quickly tell you how it works. It's priamarily based of King Louis XIV's full auto mechanism, which is also used in KILLERK's current project DAM. So my version is more closely related to DAM because it's trap based mechanism, you pull the trigger and a little arm pushes a gray connector out of the way, the hatch opens and gray connectors come flying out at a range of about 20 feet. So nothing new or super innovative, just another spray and pray weapon.            Special thanks to Zombiekiller for making the ible for the body, without it I wouldn't have been able to pull of such a good looking Thompson, mainly because I am not a replica maker. Zombiekiller makes a lot of great replicas just waiting to be made into shooting knex guns so I highly recommend checking out his ibles if you haven't already.              Alright thanks for checking out this forum! feel free to leave your thoughts and opinions in the comments below!    JonnyBGood

I work at a private ambulance company, and I made friends with the head mechanic and found out he may sell me a used diesel ambulance, fully functioning, for a little more than $1000. In order to justify my purchase, I would need an idea of what I could construct out of the ambulance I would now have in my possession.  My first thought was: A-TEAM VAN REPLICA I would speak with a couple tech colleges and offer them the ambulance for a semester, free of charge, for them to train on. It would be a prime example of the real world of a diesel mechanic's future career. Then go to the same, or a new tech college and find the car detailing or modification department and let them create the projected A-TEAM replica van. I would not only let them use a fully operational vehicle to modify to their liking, I would also use my above average graphic arts skills, and work history in direct mail advertising, to design a mailing to put out for them promoting their school and department of it, and then show awesome before and after pictures of the ambulance, and use it as an attentioN-getter to draw new students into their programs. A-TEAM VAN, with paint mods and maybe diesel engine modifications. ...Or I could mount large speakers in the external cabinets that i could just open up and lock them at 45 degrees, and stand in the middle of the back doors with a microphone and a couple computers mixing dance music. ...The lights and sirens and PA horns are all still in it and working.... I am just trying to drum up some of your creative passions and make you get out your thinking caps to run ideas by me and see what I might be able to do with this new toy! Lets get the ball rolling! I say an A-TEAM van would be sweet... What do you think? See attd, pictures.

Hey guys! For about 3 years now, I have wanted to see a ARX-160 built out of K'NEX, but both BM2 and KnexBuild found the task a little harder than expected. So, finally, I have made a good looking ARX-160 out of K'NEX, and while it does need some work, it started off great! With a high-capacity magazine, great sights, a great, long, pin-pull, nice stock, and a over-all sturdy body, this K'NEX gun is starting out pretty great! I am to lazy to post more about it now, so give us a comment, a subscription, and suggestions as to what we could do better on the build or what other replicas we should build. Enjoy! -The Red Book of Westmarch

Sharir1701's M17S is truly a pretty gun. Even my mom said so, but it does have its draw backs. In this review, I am going to do my best to give you the pros and cons of this gun, so that you can decide weather to build it or not. Now, the gun might be somewhat outdated, but it is pretty cool all the same. First off, let us talk about the cons, as those will really be the things you will really want to see. Cons: Looks: He stated in the 'ible of his M17S that "this is my bushmaster m17s replica thats like 95% perfect as a replica..." but I quite disagree. The barrel area is not quite accurate. His is too thick, the barrel is WAY two small (though, I admit, with his setup it would be pretty hard  to edit that), his trigger guard is not quite curved enough, and the handle is curved way to far. The carrying handle is not high enough, and the attachment bar is too block like. The butt-stock area is horrid. it is not flat on top, it is WAY too big, and it does not have the right types of curves. Mechanism: The mechanism does not always block the FP, and the safety does not always work. The mag lock is also a waste, as the mag stays in fine with out it. Piece Consumption: This gun is VERY piece consuming, and took up almost all of my orange connecters, green rods, and dark grey connecters (even with my attempts at piece saving). This is not really a disadvantage to the gun its self, but just keep that in mind. I am sure there are MANY ways to fix this as a problem. Now to the pros. Pros: Looks: Looks good over all, but again, not very accurate. Comfy, and yet sturdy, this gun is not at all a wast of time! Mechanism: The mechanism on this gun is FANTASTIC. I love the way it works, and the mech is quite effective (minus the disadvantage above). All of the mechs are easy, work great, and are VERY "smartly" done. Effective overall. Range: Fantastic! With a couple rubber bands you have your self an effective gun! Overall: This gun is so much fun to build and to mess around with. It's big, sturdy, has great range, has great mechs, and is just awesome overall. I would love to see this gun's mechs thrown into a concept gun/fake gun. Hope this helps you out. And as always, rate, comment and subscribe!

Here is the review for the WW2 Springfield by Knexstealth.What to expect: Innovation: 7/10 There are not too many new things but it's a great gun.Strength: 9 /10 The gun is strong over all the connection where the stock meets the barrel is a bit iffy.Range: 9/10 I got a range of 135 feetLooks: 10/10 This is by far the most realistic model on the website.Parts: 710 It uses a lot of yellow connectors and orange connectors. More then most have.Handle: 9/10 It's small but very realistic.Stock: 9/10 Nice and sturdy. Almost an exact replica.Barrel: 8/10 It's just a normal sling shot barrel but it works.Trigger: 9/10 I have never seen it before but I guess it came from katarukito.At the end: I would give the gun 9/10.Here is the link to the gun. https://www.instructables.com/id/WW2-Springfield/Thanks for readingKiller~SafeCracker

I recently have re-awoken a serious interest of mine: swordsmithing. I am in contact with a swordsmith and his apprentice,but they are both a bit far from me. If you have any expirience in bladesmithing, swordsmithing, blacksmithing, or are an apprentice, I would like to hear about your expirience and how you got started. Or if you are at least educated in this feild, I would like to hear about it, or get recomendations on what books to read. I have a basic outline about how the blades are made, but that's about it. Or, just converse among yourselves, there is a serious lack of REAL swords on instructables. I mean, I look up the word 'sword' and I get tips on how to make replicas and models. That's just fine, but I intend to be making a living offa these things. Among other things... Also, I am talking about the Japanese method of swordmaking. Not necessarily katanas, but the method seems to have great quality to it. *a side note* A quality blade is at least $200-up, and I'd be working with tamahagane. I would not buy one for any less.

Alright folks. Those of you who are gamers must know about the last Deus Ex game that came out about a year ago. Ever since I first played that game I wanted to get my hands on working replicas of the retractable sunglasses that the main character, Adam Jensen wears in the game. The only problem is, I have not an ounce of knowledge on electronics. I can make shapes out of plastic and so on, so this would be no problem for me if I wanted to just make shades that didn't retract. I tried figuring out how to make these things by myself, but the world of electronics just proved to be way too complex for me to want to delve into just to work on this one project. So if anyone wants to help make this, here's what I have in mind... In the first picture we see Adam Jensen, sporting the shades. Notice how in the game the casings don't really have enough space for the shades to retract into. This is something that wouldn't work in the real world. There's a picture of a cosplayer that I've found online. As you can see, a realistic version of these shades would require the casings to continue all the way back towards the ear. Finally, if you look at the little picture I drew, you can see the basics of what I have in mind. Basically; we need a mechanism that will propel the glasses forward in some sort of a rail system at the push of a remote control button. We can hide this button on our person to secretly push it and create the effect of the user just controlling the shades mentally. You hit the button and, Woosh! The shades slam shut. If need be, this could be made so that the glasses need to be pushed into place manually after releasing them. Whatever works. The little silver circles at the ends of the glasses would work perfectly as batteries. Also, because the shades would be glued on to the face, our primary concerns with the parts we choose would be to keep them very light, very small, and to keep the parts very stable. If anyone wants to pick this project up, please let me know so that I can help as much as I possibly can. I really, REALLY want to see this happen.

'Sup people, K'nex.X here, I got something to ask you, does anyone has any ideas for a new K'nex gun? I've practically ran dry and I'd love to have something new to work on. Don't come showing me pictures of models, I'm talking about real innovation like bolt action, lever action and/or semi auto's with a potential range over 30 feet. Next, I got an idea. What if we stop focussing on making models, replicating them as best as we can with the limited forms of k'nex pieces? We could focus on real innovation, the world needs about a 100 more Oblivitus and Kinetic's. Just check it out. Even though most have given up hopes, there are still loads of ideas to improve, perform or make. Take a look at thedunkis' forum topics, Oblivitus' concepts I'ble and Kinetic's mechs. For example, I'm now working on a bullpup, bolt action, horizontal magazine gun. Concepts are far more challenging than replicas. Just try it out for yourself.  Another thing, the veterans left. So stop making a 1001 forum topics about where everybody is, they have left. Mepain, DJRadio, Oodalumps, Zak, Shadowninja31, Coolbas, Killer-safecracker, IamCanadian, KILLERK. They all left. stop complaining, instead of whining, go out there and design something new! The red book of westmarch, Senior waffleman, Drrichtofen and all the awesome new(er) guys. You are the future of K'nex guns! Yours sincerely, Knex.X

Apparently, swallowtail butterflies have posed a bit of a puzzle to the sort of chap that studies that sort of thing. Butterflies actually have two pairs of wings - fore and aft, if you like.  Most butterflies have these pairs separated, to allow greater control over their flight, but swallowtail wings overlap, effectively becoming a single wing. They are stuck with a simple up-and-down flap.  The puzzle was; where does the control come from. It is hard to measure the forces acting on and in a live butterfly, so the researchers built a model - a small version of the hobbyists rubber-powered ornithopter, the same size and weight of a real swallowtail. They cast replica wings from fluorocarbons and polyurethane, and set it off in front of slow-motion video cameras. The conclusion? The unique shape of the wing provides automatic control - the combination of flexibility of the wing and the rigidity of the veins provide a passive control and stability. The point? Why am I posting this here?  As a challenge: the swallowtail ornithopter was (except for the wings), very basic - wire frame and a rubber band. How small could such an aircraft go? How tiny could you, dear reader, build a working ornithopter? Institute of Physics article. (Free registration required to read it in full, if you are quick)

LEGO and Star Wars fans, get ready to have your mind blown! Flickr member Marshal Banana has created a scale replica of the iconic Sandcrawler, as seen in A New Hope. There are LED's inside and out, faux weathered exterior, an operable ramp that drops down and even a crane that can lift cargo and place it on a conveyor belt inside. And yes, it moves. The entire project took 9 months to plan and build. Here's some quick facts about the project, taken from his YouTube video page: Dimensions: 96 cm long, 100.5 cm long (lowered main ramp) Weight: ~20 kg Part count: over 10,000 Power functions: 4 xl motors, 5 m motors, 4 receivers, 4 battery packs, 22 Lego LED-lights Powered radio-controlled Functions: driving: forward reverse steering main ramp: up and down crane: up and down, in and out conveyer band: forward and reverse You can check out his Marshal Banana's Flickr page and see some amazing pictures of the inside of the Sandcrawler, as well as some of his other work.

Original Melzy Creations wants to see your original purple creations! ANY PROJECT THAT IS PUBLISHED THAT IS PURPLE IN COLOR IS ELIGIBLE FOR A PRIZE FROM MELZY! A symbol of good judgment, meditation, and most importantly, figs, we think purple represents us really well. We use it in our ingredients and all of our branding, but we want to see what you can do with it! Do you have a fig’n awesome recipe for purple plum pie? Maybe you’ve got a killer tutorial for a purple dinosaur costume, know how to construct a lifelike replica of a sea urchin, can build a robot that shoots violet laser beams from its eyes, or you’re just looking for an excuse to paint that sailboat you built last summer a nice shade of electric indigo. Whatever it is, we want to see it! Anything goes as long as it’s purple. The contest will be open to step-by-step, photo, and video Instructables, with bonus points for those who incorporate figs into their project. It doesn’t matter whether your work is old or new, as long as it’s yours to share with the world. Go ahead and get started, we can’t wait to see what creations you come up with! Check it out!

Hi all and thanks in advance for taking the time to read this plea.... Here's a bit of background to the project I'm trying to undertake. My wife and I recently got married and as we met many years ago working on a cruise ship, my family decided to commission a model builder to build a replica of the ship we met on. Wonderful! We've mounted it on a shelf on the wall half way up our stairs as it's the only place in the house it fits. My only problem is that is has a set of lovely white led lights built into it with a cable coming out with a plug on the end. There's no easy and elegant solution to get power to the shelf where the ship is and I can't access the lights to swap them for a battery powered set as they're sealed within the model. I figured that it may be possible to create a battery pack to connect to the lights instead of the plug. As they're leds, I assumed (and we all know what that leads to) that they may be low powered enough to run off batteries.  The other thing i'd really like and i have no idea if this is even possible, is to to have them turned on and off remotely as reaching the shelf to switch them off will be quite tricky as it's very high up. I don't have the first clue where to start. I am attaching (if I can work out how to do it) a picture of the plug that I have removed from the lights to hopefully give someone a clue as to the power requirements of the lights. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again in advance. Mike

Get started on your haunted houses with some help from these Halloween Decorations. If ideas of how to turn your humble abode into a monstrous lair aren't running through your brain, then it's time to start! There are kids to be scared! Fun to be had! Get to it!Make something awesome, document it, and be sure to enter it into our DIY Halloween Contest!Also see: Halloween Pumpkin Carving Halloween Costumes Halloween for Kids Halloween Makeup Halloween Party Halloween Masks Pirate Cannon - A working replica of a naval cannon that fires pneumatically by Part Time Chef.com Complete your pirate look with a cannon that makes noise and fires tissue to impress kids and neighbors. How to build a Five Foot Tall Jacob's ladder by ewilhelm Every mad scientist needs one of these. Without one an evil underground lair is more like a den in need of a good cleaning. Laser Vortex by mever Smoke and lasers always work well together.Keep the laser moving to create a cool and distorted effect. Make a cool hologram illusion! by NK5 Make a skull hover in mid-air! Halloween decor werewolf head by missmonster Need to convince anyone that last year's Halloween was more intense? Just put this trophy on the wall. Solid-state Halloween controller and how to build a Haunted House by ewilhelm For the more advanced spooksters you should look to this guide for makign Halloween a little more high tech. Rotoff the Deadnose Reindeer by PaHalloweenFreak At first glance it looks like Santa came early. Look closer and you'll see that he's still stuck, and rotting, on his mission from last year. How to convert an old swingset into a guillotine prop for Halloween by Strapped-4-Cache The little ones have ditched the swingset and so it's time to put it to a nobler, and nastier, cause. Build a pneumatically actuated Yeti in a cage for a Halloween Haunted house by ewilhelm This li'l yeti is stuck in a cage and none too happy about it! At the push of a button he'll leap at any Trick or Treater who comes by. How to Build a Spooky Working Drawbridge with Sounds and Light by rjtodd13 Set the mood early with a killer entrance. Or maybe just use this for your own cult when you get around to starting it. Either way.

Edit: It's here! Here's the link to the instructable. Sorry that it's not as clear as it could be but I made it quickly. Also some of the pictures are a little blury but otherwise very clear in close up areas even. https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-MP44-Stg44-German-WWII-Assault-rifle-fully/My next WWII gun will be an M1 Garand with real clips that when all shots are fired off the empty shell is launched out.Ok well I was wondering if anyone wanted me to post this. It's a close replica to an MP44 German assault rifle from WWII. I modded the front just a little so it looks a little more realistic than from the picture and movie. I had to take off the sights though because they got in the way of the bullets even though i tried stopping this it didnt work right. Most the details are in the video but if you don't want to watch then let me just list some features-real, good working curved magezine-will extend it a little to make it look better and load more when i make instructions. the last round will pretty much always jam though. not a big deal just always load an extra round-uses rbg mechanism by bedbugg2 to fire either rubberbands or darkgrey connectors-modded the mechanism so you can shoot it full auto without losing the single shot option. It still unleashes all of the rubberbands at once and will jam some of the in the wheel sometimes. If anyone could help me find a way to have it shoot at the real pace of an MP44 or at least slower that would be great!OK I used a modded stock design that i got from ShotPain (although I'm not sure if it is his seeing that i saw it in a couple instructables) and i cant post the stock unless i can convince him but it shouldn't be that hard to come up with.I'm also working on for the future a gun that will be full auto only using a rubberband per ammo and no other technical stuff. No really all it will require is a rubber band for the ammo piece your launching and the rest will take care of its selfI'm also coming up with a pump action shotgun and maybe a break action with shells. NO! not shifles they will be shotguns with an actual spread shot not grenade style but loaded.

Okay, I've made air rifles before but this is a little more complicated... This one is a replica of a M14 (kinda). It's going to be powered on C02 cartridges and all the insides are going to be hid. So how it's going to work, you insert a C02 cartridge and pull a lever and that will push the C02 into a pipe that has an airtight seal and will pop the foil on the cartridge. From there the air will flow to a "holding" chamber, on the end of the "holding" chamber there will be a button valve (http://tinyurl.com/4h3us6c), from the button valve the air will flow to a second "holding" chamber were there will be a home made piston type valve (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=No3nI07mlQo). Then you cock the bolt and a magazine or a single chamber (haven't decided yet) and a bullet type ammunition will be loaded in. The ammo has two parts (like a real one) the actual projectile and the casing, in the back of the casing there will be an air tight seal. A "tube" will be inserted when the bolt is pushed forward, and the seal will be made. So when you pull the trigger is pulled the piston will release the air from the second chamber and shoot the bullet out the barrel. So the shooting proses would cock the bolt, insert the bullet, close the bolt, press the button valve to release the "airlock" type chamber, and the pull the chamber. So what I need to know is how big do the two chambers have to be, what kind of velocity would I be able to achieve, and is this a good idea? Thanks for the help, Nick

I had a couple of quartz time switches that had stopped working and a very cheap inaccurate clock in my workshop. I also had a double faced outdoor clock that only worked when it felt like it! My solution to this was to make a driver circuit where the mains frequency was reduced to 0.5Hz to run the stepper motors. The output is from an H-bridge that can deliver up to 800mA so in theory I could have a lot of slave clocks. A switch gives a choice of three outputs, stopped (to put all clocks back), fast forward (to run clocks ten times normal speed) and normal operation. All in all a thoroughly satisfactory operating system.I have now had the crazy notion of creating chimes for the outside clock. I want to have a chime every quarter hour and to strike the hours as well. I do not want an electronically reproduced replica of bells played on a loudspeaker. I have made tubular bells from water pipe and just need to fine tune them. I also have a prototype striker system that operates via small solenoids. I can use my 0.5Hz clock signal and reduce it further to get a trigger every fifteen minutes. I also want to silence the chimes from 11pm to 7am so will have to include timing for this.My dilemma is that I don’t know the best way to get the results I want. I have ideas for electromechanical systems and electronic circuitry to do this. I was wondering about decade counters cascaded and connected via diodes to the relevant solenoids through transistors. The sequence would be interrupted by an output feeding the clock inhibit where necessary and the next quarter hour signal would ground that to restart the chiming. Obviously this will end up with a lot of circuitry and be a bit of a nightmare to assemble - definitely not for the faint hearted! There must be an easier way that my limited knowledge is overlooking but I guess that the answer is not that simple or there would be quartz clocks readily available that did this, albeit with a loudspeaker rather than mechanical chimes.If anyone out there has had the patience to read all this and has any ideas that might help me out then I would gladly be open to suggestions. Thank you, have a great day and keep safe in these challenging times.

Alright I'm going to act noobish today by mentioning a gun I made without posting a picture =P Sorry I was planning on taking a few but I found out the camera was completely out of battery and I can't find the charger! I'll make sure to get one by tomorrow or hopefully later tonight. Anyways I finally made another replica while the XM8 is waiting to be finished. I always planned on making a UMP but never got to it until now. I figured I had to keep up with trauts. I guess you could call this the Tommy equivalent. I'm not completely finished yet as I ran out of green rods. It features a bottom rail for a fore handle attachment and a top rail for custom sights. My favorite part though is the slanted, removable magazine for grey connectors. You can preload magazines to make reloading the gun fast. Then you just push in and pull back out a part on the gun to unlock the magazine. Sorry it doesn't have a folding stock and I don't have plans for making one. Someone else could try. Alrighty I grabbed a couple pictures quickly. It's not finished yet but how is it so far? I'm going to add a better handle and fix up the stock along with giving it a proper rear sight and lengthening the magazine. Check the simple removable magazine. Nothing complex just fitting pieces together in such a way that worked perfectly for the situation.Edit: Mkay I took a picture of the updated version. All of the updates include an extended magazine, slightly changed muzzle to give it a more rounder appearance, new sites (utilizes mini knex for precision), a fake charging handle, full stock, and finally a new handle and trigger guard. I still don't care for them so I'll change them before it's posted. It turns out that I'm not half bad at making stocks after all lol.