I have a question for any of you that are using an abs slury for adhesion on you printer bed. How thick should it be? Water thin or honey like? TIA Curt
Topic by CurtWG | last reply
I am thinking of making a prototype plastic crusher/shredder out of a hardwood instead of steel. Do you think that a hardwood would be able to grind a plastic such as abs into small pellets? If so what kind of wood would be best? What if I made a plywood out of hardwood to strengthen the grain? What if I just use nice plywood?
Topic by rednax718 | last reply
Hi, everyone!A cutlery basket in my dishwasher got broken. I want to repair it with 3D printed parts. Does anybody know is it safe to put ABS INSIDE dishwasher? I mean that there are hot temperature, steam, and chemicals inside and it will connect with dishes. Thanks in advance!
Question by Glumgad | last reply
Hi there, So I've seen a lot of stuff online about 3D printing releasing what are potentially toxic fumes, and I'm wondering how this transfers over to 3D pens? We are looking to use them for workshops for kids, and there have been some concerns about it, so I'm just looking to see if anyone can point me in the direction of some info? All I can find is about 3D printing, and I can't imagine that using a 3D pen for half an hour on and off is the same as printing a whole object fume wise? Thanks!
Topic by sb9 | last reply
Hi guys, I have this plastic which I think is made of ABS plastic. I need to drill a rectangular hole and and some circular holes in the container. As such, what method (milling machining/drill etc etc) should I use to achieve my goal without damaging(cracking etc) the container? I have uploaded a pic of the container.. thanks
Topic by kurtselva | last reply
Whats better for safety and your wallet?
Question by Xenel | last reply
Many inexpensive 3-D Printers use ABS filament as feedstock. This filament is not cheap and being a plastic, it is a substance that demands recycling efforts. Imagine a small 3-D printer that you use to produce useful household items with. Here is an example Instructable illustrating what I am talking about. Now imagine that you no longer need an item that you have made. You toss it into the hopper of the machine that I have in mind and it is ground into small pieces. These pieces are then melted with acetone and extruded anew into ABS filament for your 3-D printer! It may be possible to recover the acetone during the extrusion process since the acetone evaporates to restore the ABS.
Topic by Exocetid | last reply
Those of you who may have had the occasion to paint a 3D print I'm curious what products and techniques you may have used. I've used one of the Customizer Things to make some name tags and I'd like to paint the raised letters to help them stand out. Any suggestions or methods that work on ABS? Curt
Topic by CurtWG | last reply
I'm trying to make a portable presureized water system for offgrid use. My idea uses 5 feet of 4" Abs pipe with a cap on one end and a threaded clean out to fill the tank. The capped end would have a valve at the bottom to allow a garden hose or etc to be attached, and a small valve stem( tire valve ) to pressurize the tank via bicycle pump. Is it a feasible idea? Would the water be drinkable? Will Abs stand up to constant presure or would it be best to release the presure when not in use? Im thinking 35-40psi would be reasonable with the tank 2/3rds full of water.
Topic by misterpicture | last reply
Hello guys I am looking for someone who can assemble and calibrate a ultimaker 3d printer for me living in canada i am willing to pay for the service please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you are interested to take this project up Thanks for looking and have a great day ahead! Yours Respectfully Avi
Topic by avinash3ds
The price difference is what throws me off, should i be worried about the quality of this filament vs the $48 makerbot filament? Makerbot : http://store.makerbot.com/filament Cheap Alternitive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repraper-Reprap-3D-Printer-Filament-ABS-3-0mm-1-75mm-12-Colors-For-3D-Printer-US-/190847246981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item2c6f61e285
Question by LucasOchoa | last reply
Hi, I want to get my first 3D Printer, but I'm not sure what to get. I was looking at the sculptify specifically because it prints ABS from Pellets. These two features are crucial for me; however the sculptify isn't available yet, and there is no indication as to when it will be. Does anyone know of a 3D Printer with similar features?
Question by Spaceman Spiff | last reply
Over the past couple of years, I've evolved from being totally captivated by my 3D printer, making everything I could think of out of the three plastics I can print with, ABS, PLA and Nylon, to having the Replicator, sitting in my shop and becoming "another tool". A tool that stands in as an "employee", who can make things while I do other things. Along with doing a pretty good job of making my designs, I've experimented with stepping in, during the print, adding components made of other materials, such as cloth, metal and other plastics. I've successfully made pulls on tie bags, an electric push button, aluminum mounts for my project car and spring clips to hang my wife's potato chip and popcorn bags in the kitchen. Has anyone else been able to use their printer to make items, not 100% plastic?
Topic by bfk | last reply
I have a crazy idea for making tough plates out of thermoplastics. Does anyone have any ideas for bonding PVC to ABS plastic? Two materials will add to the strength and durability of the plate. If possible I would also like to sandwich some kind of fibers in between the two plates, such as carbon fiber. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I was planning on heat forming the sheets, then maybe pressing them together at high heat, but an easier method would be appreciated.
Question by ilpug | last reply
Around 2000, the anti-lock braking system on my 1996 Volvo starting acting up. Occasionally, the ABS and TRACS (traction control system, which applies the front brakes to correct high relative velocity differences between the front wheels) warnings would illuminate, and neither would work when I tried them in snow. The dealer told me it was a computer error, which could mean any number of things, and would probably cost $600-$1000 to get and install a new ABS computer. For that level of expense, I decided would just pump the brakes if the wheels ever lost traction. Seven years later, I heard a caller on Car Talk mention that he had found someone on the internet to fix his Volvo's ABS. A quick search yields Fixing Volvo ABS problems, which for $140 will fix what turns out to be a common problem in these cars. The website is complete with ABS computer removal and re-installation instructions. So, I pulled the ABS computer out (shown in the picture), mailed it off, and got it back in about a week. I re-installed, and all the warning lights were off. I haven't had a chance to try it out in snow, but I'm pretty sure it will work. From the FAQ:We estimate that the repaired and improved unit will last for the life of the vehicle. The new components are two to four times larger than the original design. The first unit that was improved was on my own 1998 V70, that was done in October 2001 and over 30,000 miles ago, and counting.I think this is a great little business that shares many of Instructables' principles, and I wish them success.
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
I want to design a mold to be used for ABS injection, but I'm not sure which material would produce the best results. I want to design it and upload it to a manufacturer like shapeways or i.materialise. They have a few different materials to choose from here for shapeways, and here for i.materialise. What do you suggest would be the best material for a mold used to create professional looking ABS parts?
Question by Spaceman Spiff | last reply
I want to build a laser engraver that can engrave ABS to a high enough depth that the grooves can be filled with resin. How powerful a laser should I get?
Question by JN8 | last reply
I always do crunches and I see results in the upper section of my abs, yet the lower section seems to stay the same. Does anyone know a good workout that will actually show results?
Question | last reply
I have been looking around and have not found a good design for a nerf m203 grenade launcher so i made this picture. (note i have not made one but i might, just an idea) it will fire a nerf pocket vortex in will go below the Nerf recon the tactical rail it would be more for function than look. tell me what you think. ps i may just use a air fitting for a compressor rather than a pump.
Topic by ninjusk
I have heard and seen videos of people combining acetone with ABS plastic from failed 3D prints, turning it into a glue. Would this work if I used PLA? Is there any other kind of plastic that this can work with? I would prefer NOT to have to destroy my LEGOS (LEGOS are made from ABS), and I don't use ABS filament. (releases chemicals)
Question by Cheesey125 | last reply
I already have a longboard, but I'm making one this summer... (new instructable.. stay tuned!) I'm now making a pair of longboard sliding gloves for palm-down slides... what is the best material for the palm disk.. ABS, teflon, PVC? ( The thing in the back of the gloves is my homemade flattened ABS pipe.)
Question by mrwonton | last reply
I need some to build it for me
Hi creative people! I want to engrave a delicate pattern into a flat piece of material. The material needs to be sturdy and it needs to be acetone resistant. I tried using plaster of paris, but it's not sturdy enough. I can either engrave the material by hand, or with a Dremel. After the piece is engraved, I plan on pressing acetone liquefied ABS plastic with a rolling pin into it. That's why it needs to be unaffected by acetone, and also why it needs to withstand some pressure. Once the ABS had time to harden I want to pull it out of the engraved "mold". Thanks for any ideas!
Question by Morgantao | last reply
As the title states...Currently struggling a bit with my cooling tube project.I finally got a prototype that is both usable and printable.And when I thought I can somehow deal with the limited air supply of my compressor I got hit by total parts failure :(The obvious idea beind this old invention is to have one side of the tube freezing cold and the other rather hot.To the problem at hand:1. Resin based glues with activator don't like to bond anymore once you go below zero.And once getting over about 80°C they go soft and fail as well.2. Putty like glue is impossible to apply properly and suffers from simial temp rpoblems unless you go the special purpose route.3. Silicone seems to be the way to to go but it is simply impossible to cure when sealed in with basically no air and moisture reaching the still uncured areas.4. ABS goo as my last result but ABS itself does not provide the properties required to print in the fine details needed :(I am currently experimenting with a PLA blend that has some ABS in it.Chemical welding with Acetone works similar to just ABS.However it goes soft at even lower temps than either ABS or PLA.Possible solutions I still try to avoid:1. Using screws.2. Using threaded connections for the pipe and fittings (just a pain to print).3. Single print for the entire construction.Number three would be still possible on a well calibrated printer but would also mean that there is no easy way for mods, like using a different vortex generator.Right now my desing went down from over 15 parts and the need for well over 20 screws to just 4 printed parts for the generator end and 2 parts for the hot end.Plus of course length of aluminium round tube.But I can't finetune the design to match the tube if my parts constantly blow apart LOLEmbedded printing would work great and result in a properly closed generator end with no need to glue or screw anything.But it is not for the beginner and certainly not the easiest way out for everyone.What I would need:1. Can you recommend a glue that works well with PETG (my prefered option for the final design) while also keeping full bonding strenght between -20 and +100°C ?Preferably with the option to fully cure quickly and in enclosed spaces.2. Is there such a thing like these air hose quick connectors that work with aluminium pipe?I have seen collar like inserts that claim to provide a pressure secure fit but they are permanant things and it is not possible to get the rod out again...3. If you have some easy and simple way to make an airtight connection between a printed part and an aluminium rod then don't keep it to yourself please!!! ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
It looks like ABS, untextured, about 2cm thick. Do you know where it can be purchased in sheets?
Question by JamesRPatrick | last reply
Question by aobrien47 | last reply
What material, size and thickness of tubing (pvc, abs, copper) would be necessary to fit a 40 mm airsoft grenade inside of. It would need to be either 40mm exactly or slightly larger, although I'm not sure how much larger it could be.
Question by travisttt | last reply
Does anyone know of something that is cheapish and suitable for 3D printing by being extruded from a thin tube, and cures immediately on contact with a dried bit of itself, or exposure to another chemical or something? It must be practical to put though a tube at low pressure, and again, cure almost instantly once it comes out of the tube. Traditional 3D extruders will NOT work, as the device needs to be able to distribute to hundreds of tiny tubes at once (I cant cut a plastic filament into 300 pieces lengthwise, if you can, good job!), plus that I would have only about 1/4"-1/8" x 1/4"-1/8" x 6" to fit the device into.
Question by jduffy54 | last reply
If you print a lot then you also have a lot of plastic to waste.Support structures, brims, failed parts....At some stage you start to wonder if it makes sense to invest into a filament extruder.A filament extruder is a simple way to make you own filament.A 25kg bag of granules in ABS cost only a few bucks and it will last like forever.It also the prefered choice for a plastic extruder of any sort - fresh, new and clean material!I do collect a lot of leftover plastic from my projects, is it worth getting a machine to recycle it?Trust the advertisements of the commercially available models you buy one right away - if you can afford it...But there is always a catch!What are the basic requirements when collecting you already used filament?It would be easier to state what you should avoid at all costs, so let me start with the most forgiving filament types - ABS and PLA....Both will require that you keep your filament clean at all costs.You want dust removed before the filament even enters you print head and same for all that you want to recycle.Conatminents are the biggest deal breaker when you recycle filament!!!That means parts of dissimilar materials,like when printing with two heads are just rubbish and go in the recycling bin outside.The difference between ABS and PLS for recycling comes with the material properties.ABS, if not printed too hot does not change too much, PLA on the other side usually ends up to be more brittle than new filament.ABS should not be heated too high, same for PLA when you recycle.But when PLA gets too hot it not only becomes really runny but also deteriotes very quickly.Run a bit of PLA through print head like when changing filament or cleaning the head.Do one run at normal temperatur, one run at 240°C and compare how the extruded and colled string reacts ;)PLA is also prone to oxidisation and burning, espcially the black type is tricky here as you won't be able to see it, so avoid black if possible.If it happens then you end up with rock hard piece, the size depends and can be tiny or bigger than a grain of sand.A total nightmare if you did not spot that black spot in the filament and let the recycled stuff run through your printer.A total block of the nozzle is the result.Nylon I can't really recommend for recycling, too complext to handle it properly.Same for filled filament like the wood or metal types.With them it is really easy to accumulate a lump of filler that does the same block to your nozzle.To wash or not to wash....No matter what you try there will be always some contaminents that end in your collected material.ABS can be washed with water and does not require too much fancy drying.If in doubt you can even try your dishwasher or with a good bag your washing machine - both require proper rinsing several times and the last run with some added alcohol to demineralised or destilled water.I use a box with a flyscreen cover and let it dry outside in the sun for a while.PLA does not go too well with water especially with added soaps or detergents.On the other hand it has no big problems tolerate things like Acetone.Downside such solvents also dissolve a lot of contaminats which mean even though you can recycle your washing Acetone many, many time you always need fresh Acetone for the rinsing.If you can try too keep all as clean as possible to eliminate the need for washing.Can I get better results from my cheap filament maker or the one I build for some online instructions?I find that there is always room to improve on things.Before you even think about extruding your home made filament think about how to get your failed print into the thing ! ;)The most vital part comes before you even heat the machine unless it is a really fancy one with a build in and big enough shredder.That is right you need a shredder of sorts to be able to get your recycled material fine enough for the filament maker.Some models you might quickly find as tutorials to build your own use basically a big wood drill for the mechanical part to simulate a meat grinder for plastic.Even the better ones for real money often use this basic system in one way or another.The problem is that you need to get all air out the material before it ends up to be the outgoing string you roll up.Any bubbles in filament will certainly have consequences if the bubble appears during the printing of visible areas.Imagine printing in vase mode and hitting a bubble during the last 20 minutes of a 3 hour print...Unless it is dirt simple hobby built there will some mechanism to deal with the air.However if what goes in is already very fine material it melts easier and air has it a lot easier to find a way out.A good shredder will produce quite small granules but not strips or blocks.The have their limits for intake size though.The best way to get through bigger builds is a band saw, if have a clean table you can even recycle the "saw dust".I prefer to heat bigger parts in the oven at moderate temps and then to use a hammer or press to flatten it first.No shredder or no money to add one to the list? No problem!If your filament maker does not have a pre-heated feeding area of sorts it makes sense to add one with aheating mantle and external temperature controller.Trust me, if you have odd stuff to push in it is way easier if the material softens already before it enter the extruder drive part.As the extruder will get quite warm anyway it can be as simple as adding a short pipe section with the heating mantle between the extruder inlet and feeding funnel or hopper.the temperature in theis areas should of course be will below melting point and slightly above the temp when the material start to become plyable.Hence the external temp controller here.With this heating in the fedding area you really need to get your recycled material into a suitable size and shape to allow the material to be transported easy into the extruder.Ok, I got it working, sort of...You will need some time to find the prefect temperatures for per-heating, extruder temps and coooling, so take it!If your filament comes out with bubbles or fine (hard and unwanted) particles it makes sense to cheat.Most filament makers include a filter before the melted material enters the nozzle and really hot part.In some cases this filter can be as simple as a steel mesh.If none find ways to add one ;)Said filter screen should be quite fine, preferably even finer that what you find in your faucet that airates thewater for the sink.As a rule of thumb the mesh size should at least 15% finer than the nozzle size you intent to use.Anything that makes it through will only be a problem for your nozzle if a lot of crap comes through and that you should be able to spot right away when the cooled filament comes out.If despite this you still get too many bubbles check first if your temps are not going too high so the plastic start to boil in an area.Too much speed can also cause a failure to expell all air in time, reducing the speed (watch the temps!!) can often resolve this nagging air problem.It it really worth it then?On a hobby level only if you print a lot and know you will keep going like this.Otherwise you really need to be able to source or build your filament maker as cheap as possible.Someone with a little print shop and three machines running 24/7 will certainly have a good benefit over time.Especially if the recycling is part of the overall printing process.Recycled material could be used in a dedicated head and extruder for supports, infills and so on.For example in the printer dedicated to produce the biggest parts as these usually have bigger nozzle sizes anyway.In a commercial sense however it must be considered what the material is worth in terms of normal recycling and the added hours and electricity cost for making your own filament.Unless even the cheapest commercailly available filament still costs much more than what you need to invest to the machines and electricity over the time the man hours are the biggest killer.If you need someone to monitor the filament maker and keep feeding it while making sure the spools wind up correctly then your own spools might end up quite costly.So decide carefully before you invest or use you oven and a mold to make you own recyled plastic bricks for your garden beds and such.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Do you think I ought to delete my ible on how to get six pack abs? They haven't accepted it into the burning questions contest, and people seem to HATE it, although it saying about the same thing as the six pack ible that was accepted (pure coincidence, I didn't read the other one beforehand, promise!)...on the other hand, I have gotten a ton of view (over 1000 in a couple of days).https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-get-six-pack-abs/
Topic by Lithium Rain | last reply
I have seen plenty of mods and whatnot but I haven't actually seen it anywhere. Help?
Question by Master_Zane | last reply
Can i use a abs pipe?
Question by justintan | last reply
I just visited some air gun dealers site and i learned that they sell air rifles that can go up to 3000psi! I am making an air rifle that i was gonna pump with a air compressor up to 300psi. :( I thaught that 300psi was much!! Wtf?? I mean 300psi is enough to go trough 18mm plywood. Whats 3000psi gonna do??!! Go through a wall?!! Wtf? :( But is there a way for me to pump to a higher psi?? And a other thing. My air tank was this ABS pipe and i was wondering if you could get ABS pipe out of iron. Can you?? PS: I still havent learned how much fps a 300psi is.
Topic by Enzo55 | last reply
I've finished a couple of circuits and I keep bumping in the same problem. Making a decent box for them. Its hard to find anything ready to use and i'd rather make my own stuff. What your advise on wich materials to use to build stuff? I think it would be an awesome instructable, having someoen explain how to make your project a little bit more permanent with its on caseing. Acrylic tends to be a bit expensive. someone suggested ABS plastic but i cant seem to find anyone selling ABS plastic sheets near by. Thanks!
Question by SgtOneill | last reply
How will we calculate the potential difference? I'm not sure but I think the potential difference across AB is 5V.
Question by NishthaC1 | last reply