Here is a public discussion board where we can discuss actuators. -how they work. -where you can buy them. etc.
Topic by m5industriesinc | last reply
Hey everyone. I have a question about a linear actuator that I'm putting on my sawmill to control the throttle. On a sawmill you either need to be full throttle or idle. I've already got the actuator mounted and it works great. Now I need a controller for it. I've got a keyless remote from a auto parts store that I would like to use. I also would like to have a hard wired button. The kicker is that I would like to be able to push a button on the remote or the wired button and the actuator go all the way out. And then push the same button and it come all the way in. The actuator has built in limit switches so it will stop on its on either all the way out or in. This may not be feasible for me to do but I was just thinking by using relays it may be. If I can't use just the one button then I'll have to use two. There should be no need for a stop button since the actuator has a limit switch at both ends. Thanks
Question by papermaker007 | last reply
I'm planning on adding network capabilityto my current remote car starter (like the viper systems) At first i was thinking of hacking a remote and connecting it to my microcontroler. But since the spare remote cost 80$ I chose to go out with a mechanical pushing of the button instead, at least for the prototype. Considering the following facts, what do you think i should use? The solenoid/actuator must operate at -22 f (-30c) I dont want the thing to smash the remote too hard and break it Thanks
Question by gazoutg | last reply
Hello All, I have setup the stage for the Firgelli actuator L12 -I, using an Arduino Mega + Adafruit Motor Shield (please take a look at pictures). I tested the circuit with a motor and the Adafruit "DC Motor" example code: it works. I then replaced the motor with the actuator using the same code: it does not work!! I would very much appreciate your help. Regards, Behzad.
Topic by behzadjk | last reply
Question by swupuws | last reply
Hello everyone. I'm trying to run a linear actuator with built in limit switches by remote control. I bought the remote from a parts store. The remote was supposed to be used for windows up and down, door locks and other stuff. I would like to be able to use the relays that I already have on hand. I want to be able to push a button on the remote and the actuator go all the way out or in without holding the button down the whole time. Thank for your help.
Topic by papermaker007 | last reply
I've searched the web and found a bunch of theoretical stuff, but nothing that says here's a schematic and use these parts.
Question by criswilson10
I acquired this mechanism which I would like to modify for ease of use. The original set up uses a linear actuator and a 3 way toggle switch. The linear actuator comes with built in limit switches. The 3-way toggle is not practical as my hands are fully utilised on the work bench. I would like to modify the set-up so that I can use a single foot pedal switch to get this motion. One step on the foot switch and the linear actuator extends to its maximum length. Then another step on the same foot switch and the linear actuator retracts to its maximum. Any help with the circuitry and parts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ROY
Question by anslemroy | last reply
I know how to do servos and such, but the actuator has 5 wires, and i dont know where to put it.
Question by therobotman | last reply
Hey, I have a robotic project that I have a deadline for. i have everything in place, but i cant think of how to connect the linear actuator up to my Vex Cortex Microcontroller. it has 5 wires, but I cant fit them in any of the outlets. Sincerely, I cant give my name out
Topic by therobotman | last reply
I wanna a poweful pneumatic cylinder which can push fastly 30-50KG easily. I want this cylinder for robot fight (But not big pneumatic cylinder max. weight of pneumatic cylinder should be 1.5KG. cause robot has weight limit. i wanna buy this cylinder form online shop ( Like ebay,amazon,hobby king etc. good online shop). But i haven't good knowledge about pneumatic cylinder. So if anyone have good knowledge about pneumatic cylinder then please recommend me a good one for robot fight with all equipment ( solinoid bulb, fitings). Give me the proper goof online shop link where i can buy this pneumatic cylinder. Thanks.
Question by Takrim | last reply
I have a 73 Bronco, I am trying to install a set of step bars onto. I would like to have them mounted on a linear actuator. Is it possible to have them wired to a door jam switch, so they would lower when door is opened, and raise when closed? Every switch I have seen is a toggle, which won't work for my application. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Greg
Question by greg dill | last reply
Hi Firstly Im new to this and my electronic knowledge is very limited What im trying to do is make an actuator move up and down using a remote using a momantary action From what I understand I need and actuator (obviously), an ir remote and a power supply I have sourced a few parts (see below) just dont know how they will or if they can go together actuator: http://annbodesign.com/GENERAL-PURPOSE-ACTUATORS-FOR-AUTOMATED-PROJECTS ir remote: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-Remote-control-On-off-2-Channel-momentary-relay-/320627757256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash;=item4aa6e750c8 So what i need to happen is that when i hold one of the buttons the actuator opens and when i hold the other button the actuator closes As i said im not sure how to or if these products will go together, so if not, please could you lead me to another website where i could get the products from, also not sure if i will need limit switches etc etc ps im in the uk, so a uk based site would be an advantage for me thanks pete
Topic by newbie308 | last reply
Hello all! I have 2x 12v actuators with 2 wires. I need to have both of them (at the same time) extend all the way and stay for 30 minutes and then retract completely for 30 minutes and cycle like this. What would be the simplest way for me to go about this? Cheers!
Topic by sandman420 | last reply
I'm using the L12 S Firgelli actuator in my project. If I applied 12v and Ground to respective leads the actuator will expand if I reverse the wires the actuator will retract. I need this: When I turn my car on the actuator will expand and when I turn my car off the actuator will retract. How do I wire the relays? Again I don't use a switch. Thanks
Question by kpitao | last reply
I received a free actuator from my friends cottage. 11 years ago it use to angle a 8ft dish. It was removed some time ago, and the label is fully off. The bottom says its a saginaw performance pak actuator, aka PPA, and it has a 24" arm. I was trying to find more information on it, and all I can find is that it can be heavy, regular, or light, 600-1,500 pounds dynamic linear. Anyone have one or any ideas? I cant find a model number on the case cuz it faded, but the motor says 7821645 or 1821645. Either way I found a tiny chart listing models but not that one.http://www.galaxy-marketing.com/images/7822260.jpgLooks similar to that one there. I just want to find out how much force it has. Most I done so far to test it works aftter 11 years of rusting on the main shaft (the moving piston is fine) is sit on a box. It manage to push me with no change in motor sound. Any more details? Please ask!
Topic by Killa-X
Looking for some advice on wiring a car power door lock actuator and remote central locking keyless entry system to a 12volt power adapter. We've got a chicken coop that I would like to connect the actuator to so we can open the latch from inside the house. The items we have are a CfD Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor & a Docooler® Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers. The Remote has 10 wires coming from its harness. I know enough about electrical wiring to efficiently burn the house to the ground. Figured I would post a question here before that happens or I destroy the thing. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks
Question by LarryIannacone | last reply
Hi, I'm not sure if it's appropriate to post this inquiry on instructables but I thought I'd give it a try. Basically, I need a dial that would command this linear actuator https://www.servocity.com/sda24-263 to advance in one inch increments on either a dial or a touchpad or a slider. I'm not an engineer and I don't really have time to build this myself - would anyone be interested in doing this for a fee? If it would help in assessing the project, I now this controller would work https://www.servocity.com/digital-manual-speed-controller However, I need the dial or touch pad to allow for discrete steps and not be sort of vague. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm just not sure where else to turn. Thanks, Evan
Topic by EvanB65
I have 2 electric actuators, by Linak, from an old recliner chair with control box. The actuators are rated at 24v and can push up to 6000n (611Kg) and pull up to 4000n (407Kg) . They move fairly slowly and steadily and automatically cut out once they've extended or retracted to the max. Would it be safe to use one to push and pull the drill on a home made drill press?
Question by CyberR | last reply
I would like to build a remote bird launcher (does not hurt the animal) from cheap or used parts, but my electronics skills have been found wanting! The mechanism is spring loaded so I just need to release a trigger mechanism sothat the springs can do their job and launch the bird. We are currently using a string, but is not effective! I have come across a few other instructables/diys for this, but they tend to be made from more expensive parts. I have heard ideas like using a doorbell remote and receiver, but how do you get the receiver to give a pulse to an actuator in order to push/pull the trigger? The suggested actuator is a car central locking device. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated and i am open for any fresh ideas.
Question by Gundog | last reply
I want to create a box where the lid opens up based on ambient light. Basically the lid closes at night and is open during the day. It will be a wildlife feeder that deters (nocturnal) raccoons from eating all of the feed but allows daytime wildlife to feast heartily. Is arduino the correct setup. My basic design is to have a linear actuator opening the lid but was also considering a crank type system (similar to a steam engine drive wheel). I need to either be able to control how long the actuator extends when enough light is present and reverse the action when not enough light is present or turn a servo motor with a crank a certain distance. Id prefer to use the actuator since the lid will be about 10Lbs and will need to extend about 10”. Is this possible? if so, how hard would it be for a newbe be to program? Thanks in advance for the advice!!! Ive attached a crude drawing.
Topic by tincupchalice | last reply
I'm looking for a pneumatic solenoid valve of a certain layout and not having much success, although I am CERTAIN it must exist and by the level of knowledge exhibited around these parts -someone here will know of one! Here we go, I need a really simple "normally open" valve with low current draw, small dimensions, good sealing, -in fact something very much like this type only normally open in design and capable of handing 18psi http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SOL-132/SOLENOID-VALVE/1.html Do you know of a suitable design on sale for my project? Thank you for your constructive input and I hope the answer will help anybody else who is looking for a valve with similar requirements on their project :D
Question by Fingermouse | last reply
I am trying to wiring two limit switches onto a linear actuator. One to stop the extend stroke but will allow you to retract the actuator. The other limit switch will stop the retract stroke but allow you to extend the actuator. The actuator is installed on a door I need it to stop on the extend stroke and the retract stroke so it doesn't damage anything. I have an LACT8-500A actuator and the company doesn't make a limit kit for the adctuator.
Topic by youaintwrong | last reply
Question by washjona | last reply
I'm thinking about making an alarm clock that literally gets me out of bed! The alarm clock would start tilting the bed to one side, untill i either get out of bed, or fall out of bed :) I was thinking of using linear actuators on one side of the bed to do the tilting. Does anyone here have any experience with linear actuators? How strong are they, and where can I buy them cheaply? Any other ideas on how to tilt a bed? Cheers - Chr
Topic by chr | last reply
Trying to figure out the wiring to operate 1 actuator using 2 on/on switches. Anyone care to help out? Actuator has built in limit switches. 24" stroke. It will open all the way and door will be closed and then open all the way when the switch is triggered on either end. Same as a hallway light that operates from 2 location in the house. The tricky part I've found is getting relays and switches to reverse polarity. I know how to wire a dpdt switch to move forward and backward on the actuator. But with another switch to do this I've been told I need relays. I don't understand the circuitry and tech talk, so please bare with me. Pictures say a lot, so if you can add photos or links that helps most.
Question by nowrydell | last reply
Magnetostrictive alloys like Galfenol are not only quite cheap but also quite possible to produce and machine at home. As it seems that right now I can't finnish anything without being stopped by something else that got my attention I am a bit stuch on all ends now LOL Anyway, I still have a few kg of rare elements like Gallium, Bismuth, Antimony and such that I misused for my testing of home made ferrites. So apart from making some fancy metals that melt at very low temperatures I thought a much better test usage would be to make something that for once has some real world use :) If you look up some of the research papers for Galfenol use or magnetostrictive materials in general you soon learn two things: a) You need a degree or have studied something related to fully understand the technical stuff behind it. b) Finding something that would give you enough info to make something that works as planned is next to impossible. I don't mind wasting some time on melting steel, machining some samples and do some testing but of course this takes a lot of time... So I was wondering if anyone here already experimented with magnetostrictive materials and their possible uses? Apart from micro actuators for minature things I don't have I was thinking of generator use. A lot of things produce wanted and unwanted vibrations, magnetostrictive alloys are capable of transforming them into electrical energy by simply using a coil around the material. For example the recoil of your favourite hunting rifle could in theory charge your dot sight or laser sight/flashlight. Or the otherwise useless vibrations of big machines or rock tumblers can be turned into something to charge your phone. Not to mention impact sensors or flat surface loudspeakers....
Topic by Downunder35m
I'd like to make a cheep motorized actuator using a long bolt, nut & a small hobby motor to spin the bolt. I like to know how to attach the small motor to the bolt, or some way to spin the bolt. All I can think of is drill a small hole in the bolt, then J/B Weld the motor on the back. Is their a better way? Not only that but, what do I use to mount the motor at one end & the other end of the bolt to spin freely.
Topic by elkaddalek | last reply
Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo Provided you have the tools and the servo you can built this for under a couple of bucks. The actuator extends with a rate of about 50mm/min. It is rather slow but very powerful. Watch my video at the end of the post where the small actuator lifts 10kg vertically. Materials List Tools list - hobby servo - standard hobby brass tubing -OD: 4.0mm, ID: 3.4mm -OD: 5.8mm, ID: 4.5mm - standard hobby styrene tubing -OD: 4.8mm, ID: 3.5mm - M4 studding - 2 x M5 washers - 2 x M4 nuts - 5 minute epoxy - cyanoacrylate - grease - multi-strand cables - heat-shrink tubing - standard tools – screwdrivers, scalpel, files etc. - dremmel multi-tool with ceramic abrasive disk, or similar - hand-drill + 4.9mm + 2.5mm drill-bits - M3 tap - M4 tap - soldering iron - glue gun - small vice - small saw - sanding paper (relatively fine) - small flame torch http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/material_tools.jpg Procedure - I will be giving instructions based on the dimensional parameters of the Hitec HS-300. The procedure remains the same for any type servo. I strongly recommend you read the whole post before you start. So lets make a start, shall we? - Open your hobby servo, remove control electronics, feedback potentiometer and mechanical stop on the servo’s output gear. - Solder new cables on the servo motor’s leads. - Drill two 4.9mm holes on the servo case bottom cover. These should be located longitudinally along the centre line and 9.5 mm from each end (this applies on the Hitec HS-300 and is also true for many standard servos but depending on your servo type there might be differences). The M4 thread will come out from the servo body using one of these two so this hole must be located directly below the centre of rotation of the servo’s output gear. Be very careful since this alignment is very important! If you don’t get it right you might have to use a new servo! The more accurate you are, the longer your servo will endure. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/bottomCover_potHead.jpg - Measure the dimensions of the rotating shaft of the potentiometer on the servo’s original electronics – note the geometry in general. The shaft should be flattened right at the tip in order to prevent it from freely-rotating once inserted into the servo’s output gear. - Take the M4 studding (M4 thread) pick one end and by using the dremmel and the abrasive wheel tool, replicate the tip of the servo’s potentiometer on that end. Start by decreasing the diameter of the thread, rotating it steadily by hand against the abrasive disk (normally to 3.5mm in diameter and at least 6mm in length). Try to think of your fingers as the chuck of a slow-turning lathe. Once the diameter of the thread is down to the pot’s shaft diameter, flatten the tip according to the potentiometer’s tip. The idea is that the thread must be inserted in the servo’s output gear in the same way the potentiometer did before. The better the fit the longer your servo will endure. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_modofication.jpg - On the flat tip of the M4 thread, screw the two M4 nuts approximately 20mm down its length. Following that, insert the two M5 washers. - Insert the thread inside the servo and adjust the distance of the nuts and washers down the thread such that the servo case bottom cover closes properly and the motor rotates efficiently. Basically, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no pressure between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Similarly, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no gap between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Once again, the better the fit the more your linear actuator will endure. - Once you find the optimum position carefully disassemble the servo, remove the washers from the thread and use a drop of cyanoacrylate on the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers in the assembly. Let the glue to settle for 5 minutes. Unscrew the second nut by 10mm towards the flat end of the thread, and prepare a small epoxy mix. - Put the mix between the two nuts and screw the second nut back in place. Once in place also use some epoxy on the back of the second nut as well. Ideally you should sand all contacting areas before you apply the epoxy glue. Leave to settle for at least 6 hours (even if you use a 5 min epoxy). http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/copper_thread.jpg - Secure tightly the 4mm diameter brass tube onto a vice by flattening the mounting end and use the M4 tap VERY carefully tapping as deep as possible (at least 15mm). Using the dremmel cut 10mm out of the threaded part of the tube and then verify that the created thread runs along the whole length of the small threaded tube by screwing it onto an M4 screw. Keep the 4mm threaded tube on the screw for handling purposes. Apply a layer of solder on the outside surface. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_solder.jpg - Take the 5.8mm diameter brass tube pick one end and try to sand at least 5mm into the tube (on the inside). Mount the brass tubing on the vice without squishing it and apply a thin layer of solder on the inside. - Ignite the flame torch, take the 4mm threaded tube (holding it by the screw) and move it on the soldered end of the 5.8mm diameter brass tube which should still be mounted on the vice. Using the flame torch heat-up both tubes and carefully insert the 4mm threaded tubing inside the 5.8mm tubing until is fully inside. Use a pair of pliers and insert the brass tube by holding the end of the screw that sticks out. Hold the threaded tube levelled inside the 5.8mm tube until the solder settles. If you do not have a flame torch use a candle, your soldering iron and your patience :). Remove the screw. The end result will be the cylinder of your linear actuator. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_cylinder.jpg - The cylinder length should be equal to: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of the 4mm threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + 10mm for the mounting hinge at the cylinder end. - The thread length should be: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + length of the thread which resides inside the servo casing, which is model-dependant. - Take the non-threaded/non-soldered side of the cylinder and drill a 2.5mm hole through, 5mm from the tip. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/cylinder_heatShrink.jpg - Cover the entire length of the cylinder with heat-shrinking tube and cut-off any excess bits. The 2.5mm through holes made earlier on the non-threaded side of the cylinder are now covered. Use the drill again to expose them and tap them through, using the M3 tap. Screw a 20mm long M3 studding or simply cut-off the head of a 20mm long M3 screw. This will act as your cylinder mounting hinge. - Take the 4.8mm styrene tubing and M4 tap it 10mm deep. Cut a small ring 5mm in length and screw it in the M4 thread fully, from the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers (long side of the M4 thread). This will act as bushing between the thread and the servo’s case bottom cover. Ideally you should use nylon, copper or metal bushing. http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_servo.jpg - Secure the motor cables inside the servo casing using a glue-gun and use heat-shrinking tube to cover them. Assemble the servo including the thread, the styrene bushing and the washers. - Screw-on the cylinder and you are good to go! Here is a video of the small actuator lifting 10kg For those of you that have watched my video on the MTR Rover will understand where the idea of hacking the servo came from ;)) Soon we will be posting assembly instructions, code and schematics on how to modify a standard servo to get full PID speed and position control with 10-bit resolution over 360 degrees – continuous ;) I look forward for your comments!
Topic by Antonb | last reply
I have the hard wired dpdt switch wired as attached and the relay as per the other attachment (but the incoming voltage to power the board and running through the relays to power the actuator are both 12v and from the same source). I am trying to have both a RF control and hard wired back up in the event of battery failure of controller or unit loss. Both items work fine when wired up to the actuator alone but when put in parallel there is a real issue with nothing happening. It seems like there is a open circuit which is drawing a large current from the transformer but not doing anything with it. I think it may have destroyed the relays on the board though - no, no fuse in the system less that on the transformer :-( I just cannot see the problem but I have found another wiring diagram (also attached but with an actual board shown on it) where there seems to be a whole lot less wiring but I dont know if this will achieve what I need to do. I do not want to destroy another relay board by experimenting so would be eternally grateful for a little advice. Can anyone assist, I am not an electronics expert but a mechanical engineer (could never get my mind around what I could not see!!)?
Question by intrance | last reply
Need help designing actuator system for display bottles in a table.I will need 12 VDC actuators with limit switches, power supply etc.Ultimately i would like it to be activated from a click on a iPad image but not a must.Any help would be compensated for.I am in Toronto Canada
Question by dnicol1 | last reply
I have a car door lock 2 wire actuator one wire pushes the solenoid actuator to unlock and the other wire pulls to lock. I want to install these in my car with a momentary push button switch which illuminates when doors are locked and button is pressed once and then turns off when doors are unlocked and same button is pressed again. Should this be a dpdt on off on switch, or spdt on off on? I know with rocker dpdt switches you can set it so reversing polarity will make the actuator pull or push whichever the opposite is. Do they make a push button that I can press to lock, press to unlock.
Topic by graphitej | last reply
I set up a linear actuator on a timer with a relay and 12 Volt 5 Amp battery exactly like to project you show on your site. It worked like a champ for about 2 months the stopped. I thought maybe the battery need a recharge but that wasn't the issue. When the switch opens and remains open the red light on top of the relay remains on. I keep the door open for about 4 hours in the morning then it closes. It opens again for about 4 hours before dusk then closes again until the next morning. My concern is that the red light on the relay is indicating that the switch is on continuously sending electricity to the actuator. After 2 months it just fried the actuator. I took apart the actuator and it looks like its brand new with no black spots on the copper wires. I'm hoping I just have a bad actuator.
Question by Joenjmortgage | last reply
I got some threaded rods today. They look straight. 16 threads per inch. The tag on one of the shorter ones says 3/8" - 16x36", course threads, zinc plated 1700lb. I was planning to use these for the x,y,z control for a 3d miller/printer. I realize it may be slow. Someone mentioned that the McWire repstrap uses a 4 1/20 (the only part I understand is 20 threads per inch) was really slow, but someone made it work with 2 1/16. I did not really have plans to attempt position verification because I think the resistance vs torque should be minimal for a threaded rod setup. I figure I could get away with just sending it specific pulses for a specific amount of time. Could I have some feedback on this?
Topic by nstenzel | last reply
This project started as this instructables project https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-Robotic-Drum However, instead I'm using a relay board (sainsmart 8 channel) and arduino to switch power from 4 separate wall plug DC power supplies to the individual actuators. Each power supply is connected to 2 channels on the relay, powering 1 actuator each. These are the car door lock actuators Working voltage: DC12V Current consumption: 0.15A-2.22A I am using 1 x 12v, 4.5A power supply, and 3 x 9v 1.5A power supplies (since this is what was needed for the original instructables project) However, I'm noticing that the actuators will sometimes not fire when the circuit is connected, and they seem to be limited as to how quickly they can fire. This is more of a problem with the 9v than the 12v power. The 12v, when supplying power to two actuators at the same time, will not work. I don't understand how the instructables project seemed to have no issue powering these actuators with three 9v 1.5 supplies powering 12 of these actuators (with shields that can only output max 1.2A per actuator). So that got me thinking that the motor shield is doing some sort of power regulating for the actuators. I think a single actuator, unregulated, is gobbling up all the power to the point that the power supply is shutting off, or at least has no more power to supply to anything else. Q: - Do I need to build some sort of regulator for each motor to limit it's power consumption? If so, what kind of regulator? - Should I just increase power supplies to higher Amps until it's not a problem? Any help is very much appreciated.
Question by Trrl | last reply
Hi all, I'm working on a hidden camera prank tv show and some of the pranks call for things (bookshelves, statues, a tv wall mount) to suddenly fall apart. I've been trying to figure out how to build a small, powerful actuator into the breakaway props, something that I can control remotely. My idea is that the actuator will retract and thereby pull a pin out of something that it is holding up, causing the thing to fall. I'm seeking your advice!!! :) Ideally I would love it if the entire system was small enough (batteries, receiver and actuator) to hide in the props. Do you know any good websites to look at? Any specific products I should check out? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, DAZU
Question by damianzuch | last reply
Dear All, I have had this error for the first time!!! I wanted to use the adafruit shield with arduino to turn on a normal DC motor...then this error: I have read so much in other forums and have tried them but it seems like nothing works!? It is quite odd and frustrating. Would you please help me? Regards Karim
Topic by behzadjk
APPLY NOW !!!! http://blogs.iad.zhdk.ch/emotiveenvironments/actuated-matter/ The Actuated Matter workshop explores the application of smart materials and their ability to transform space into responsive, adaptive environments. We will develop a speculative model for membrane structures that exhibit properties of sensitivity, resilience, and decay. By physically engaging with the behaviours of active materials, we experiment with the threshold between the electronic and mechanic, the analog and the digital. The workshop follows a do-it-yourself approach and will result in the development of sonic, luminous and moving modules that will populate and activate the environment. This workshop is part of a recent research initiative called “Emotive Environments” and emerges from a collaboration between ZHDK's Institute for Computer Music and Sound Technology (http://www.icst.net), the Interaction Design Institute (http://iad.zhdk.ch), ETH's Chair for Computer Aided Architectural Design (http://www.caad.arch.ethz.ch) and London based Loop.pH Design Research Studio (http://loop.ph/). Participants will work in small groups, each be led by someone with experience in the particular field of research. The workshop will be complemented by a final presentation and unveiling event, where you are also invited to come see the results, if you cannot attend the workshop. The workshop is free of charge. Application forms and more information can be found at: http://blogs.iad.zhdk.ch/emotiveenvironments/actuated-matter/ APPLICATION CLOSES JULY 13
Topic by M.Kretzer | last reply
I want to build a DIY 12v DC linear actuator, using Arduino uno. The actuator is DIY so it does not have any position tracking. I want to use 2 relays to control the direction of the actuator, two end switches, and one sensor input (preferably a photo resistor) The sensor, and end switches are connected to Arduino UNO R3 as inputs and relays as outputs. When the sensor is energized motor moves forward until it hits End Switch No 1 and stops; When the sensor its not energized motor moves backwards until it hits End Switch No 2 and stops: And be able to repeat this program whenever the sensor is energized. I would be greatly appreciate if someone can help me with this sketch, because i don't have any experience with Arduino code. Thank you and have a grat day.
Question by catalin1704 | last reply
Hi everyone i'm building an automatic swing gate (for my project) which uses a pneumatic actuator to open it but i'm struggling to determine how the gate is going to close, as the actuator does not have a longer stroke. i only have two and half weeks left for my due date, any help would greatly be appreciated. thanks
Topic by swazelafirenze | last reply
I want to hook up a 12 volt linear actuator to a door hooked to a 110 volt timer with a plug on the bottom so when the timer turns the power on the plug will energize and the LA will open the door, and when the next set of pins on the timer come around it powers the plug again sending power to the LA again to close it, i obviously have to power the LA with a 110 v AC to 12 v dc converter, and most of the Linear Actuators have internal limit switches, so how can i revers the LA? Or do i need an AC Linear Actuator? The timer simply powers the plug on the bottom of it when the tab comes around and the next tab will be set to turn it off, in other words open in the morning and close at night, im thinking i need some switch with relays? any help would be apreciated.
Question by robinthedark | last reply
...i'm needing to find a good source for cheap electronically actuated valves (for liquid mainly)...i've found a few solenoid type valves through random google searches...but they're all pretty expensive....i can get just solenoids for under $2 from most places...but they're just the solenoids...and well...i'm not sure how to turn one of those into a valve assembly if anyones got some good sources for either solenoid valves or other electronically actuated valves (i've seen some people use ice maker valves for this...but those things are $20 and up...too rich for my blood)
Topic by crapflinger | last reply
I am building a stewart platform as part of a larger assembly to accuratly position an object in all six degrees (transition in x,y,z) and rotation about each of these (pitch, yaw, roll). I plan to use an arduino board and 6 firgelli linear actuators. Any help on how to go about programming this would be a great help, or if anyone knows of any open source code so that I do not have to do the reverse kinematics as Im not strong enough in math to do so. ive attached a pic screenshot of my design. thanks
Topic by habbi_88 | last reply
Ok so i've got a VOIP system that's connected to a Rhino FXS Chanel bank that's used to control our overhead paging system. From the Rhino we go to a Volcom analog adapter to a Volcom Stacker unit (echo cancelation). Every once in a while this system will "lock up" and just throw static over the paging system (and even more rarely someone will put the overhead paging system on hold which pumps our hold music over the intercom system)...to combat this i've got the Rhino, the adapter, and the stacker pluged into a surge protector so that when the "abnormal condition occurs" we just flip the switch on the surge protector and it drops the whole system. then we turn it back on and all is well.This works great but the system is in a remote location in the facility so it takes a bit of walking to get to it. What i'd like to do is try to hook up a NC relay between the surge protector and the wall and have an open channel on the Rhino actuate the relay to basically turn the power off to the system any time you dial a specific extension.According to the datasheet the Rhino itself has a line current limit from 18ma to 45ma and it emits standard telephone line voltage....i can also configure the ring cadence...so i can probably set the ring duration long enough to actuate the relay before it cuts the system off (which would then return the relay back to closed)i'm having trouble finding out what the actual output voltage on the analog line and a general lack of schematics to try to make this workso...if anyone wants to have a little fun attempting to design a relay that can be actuated by a telephone...please reply
Topic by crapflinger | last reply
Have two old electric linear screw actuators that work great. I Need a lift table but can't figure out how to put it all together. I don't know what width or type of metal use for the lift or the bolt hinges???. Does it have to be a scissor lift or can I keep the actuators where they are at each end of the bed, wire them to work together and make a lift that way? I need an affordable way of doing this and it only needs to lift to about 500 lbs. from 17 inches off floor to 30 inches off floor. All framing is angle iron but seems heavy duty. Anyone's help if greatly appreciated as I just cannot afford to spend $ 1000. + on an electric massage lift table. The pic is after everything but the motor/actuators were removed. Thanks Deb
Topic by DebMaudie | last reply