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A good adhesive.

I'm doing a project for a high school competition in which I built a computer and plan to skin it. I've got my skins draw and (soon to be) printed. Heres my issue, how to attach them to the computer case? I need an adhesive thats heat resistant and won't ruin as the computer warms up, it also needs to be flat in that the skin does not stick away from the case. (Some sort of spray adhesive or paint on glue). If I could get any suggestions or a good brand name I'd be very thankful.

Topic by Nachte    |  last reply


adhesive suggestions for jewelry

What glue/adhesive do you use for fastening jewels/metal to brooch settings, fabric, and other jewelry? Thanks for your help :)

Topic by rististien    |  last reply


waterproof nontoxic adhesive?

I'm looking for an adhesive that will bond plastic to plastic, is waterproof, and is also non-toxic. I am attending an "anything but cups" party and am planning to use a Magic 8 Ball. I know that there is a canister inside which holds the die and blue liquid. I believe in order to take that out, I need to open the entire ball. I don't think that it will snap back together in a way that won't leak. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Question by sk8rgrrl    |  last reply


Semi-adhesive materials

Hi, I'm looking for some suggestions of what I'll call (out of ignorance) "semi-adhesive materials". I am looking for a large sheet that can be folded, or preferably tightly rolled (think a window blind) and a variety of shapes that can be stuck on and repositioned. I've had a look at display felt for use with hook and loop stickers. The felt is quite thick and expensive. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experimented with this kind of project. Flexible magnetic material, or some kind of static attraction or something? Cheaper the better really, but durability is a big concern too. Any pointers in directions to look would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by shockerty    |  last reply


plexiglass glue adhesive

I've been hunting for an adhesive or glue to build projects out of plexiglass.  The clear plastic available in many local hardware stores.  Talking to the stores I have been directed to purchase glues that they stock, but these never provide me with the bonding I am looing for.  I suppose what I am looking for is a chemical weld similar to what you get working with pvc and the glues available for those water tight seals.

Question by cgibson    |  last reply


Adhesives suitable for aluminum connections?

Due to lack of welding equipment now, I am looking for any adhesives that can be used to joining small bits of metal attached to one another, any suggestions?

Question by KyleofAsgard    |  last reply


Natural water resistant adhesive

Hi I'm looking for a natural, cheap water resistant adhesive that can be applied to plant matter Ideally soluble in hot water so it can be easily applied but insoluble in cold water. Any ideas?

Topic by Isjmarshall    |  last reply


HELP!!!!! Non-melting adhesive??

Does anyone know an easily accessible adhesive that will neither melt or conduct electricity?? I'm using it for the cotton candy machine, which by the way, is really close to completion!

Topic by T3h_Muffinator    |  last reply


best adhesive to repair ceramics? Answered

I need to repair a standard ceramic coffee mug. It has broken, very cleanly, into 3 separate pieces.  When complete it needs to be able to withstand typical daily uses i.e. a microwave, dishwasher, boiling water. Ideally the repair will be invisible. What is the best adhesive  to use?

Question by bryanddom    |  last reply


Which adhesive to use for fibreglass? Answered

I want to glue hard plastic brackets to the inside of a fibreglass pond. Contact area will be around 18" x 2". They will be continuously underwater. Is Araldite the best glue to use for this or is there something better?

Question by AndyGadget    |  last reply


Adhesive/fill material needed

I need an adhesive or fill material with some special properties. It should be a moderately viscous liquid that sets up into something very flexible, jellylike would be ideal. It should be applicable in very small quantities. It should flow before curing and be self leveling unlike silicone adhesive. Tensile strength is relatively unimportant. It should not adhere to two part tin based casting silicone. An analogy that comes to mind is E6000 adhesive but it's viscosity is a bit too low and it sets up way too hard. UV cured resin like Loon UV Knot Sense (great stuff that I learned about here) comes close and has the right viscosity also but also cures too hard. If you know of anything, I've got a project on hold until I find something and would greatly appreciate advice.

Topic by dgateley    |  last reply


Non Toxic Adhesive Spray

I ordered glitter halters for my horses but the glitter falls off. Is there a safe product I can use on the halters to keep the glitter on without any danger to my horses either toxic smell or indigestion? 

Question by Horselove    |  last reply


Adhesive glue, Suggestion required

I need some suggestions to firmly stick plastic with concrete, the bond should be really strong, as the concrete is of 10 Kgs and is placed over a large plastic drum and the system will vibrate violently. I tried Super Glue but it did not work.

Question by savan28    |  last reply


ABS Slury

I have a question for any of you that are using an abs slury for adhesion on you printer bed. How thick should it be? Water thin or honey like? TIA Curt

Topic by CurtWG    |  last reply


Adhesive for gluing plastic bead on wood ?

What is great adhesive for gluing plastic beads on wood ? Epoxy glue? I also thinked super glue. I would like to glue plastic bead center of wooden pendant. Is anyone done this before?

Topic by DeathSuperMario    |  last reply


Regarding Sticker/Decal Adhesive and removal.

I need to make a decal/sticker that will withstand heat, sweat and humidity as well as remove easily from plastic without damaging the case. What is the best type of adhesive and/ore decal paper that copes well with the conditions stated above? I'm working on a project that I wish to remain discreet about.

Question by xTinie    |  last reply


What is a good adhesive for draughtsman's mylar?

I want to make a smooth drawing surface to place on a dining room table. The material I have on hand is used mylar sheets from an engineering shop, about the thickness of paper. I'd like to cut the sheets down to quarter-size or so and laminate several thicknesses together to make a semi-rigid surface.  I've tried several adhesives I have on hand, and the one that works best is Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, but even that doesn't stick very well. So, what's the best option to glue this stuff together, keeping in mind that I don't want anything thick that will distort the sheets or create a lot of bubbles?

Question by yoyology    |  last reply


Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Topic by meemee_0822    |  last reply


What is a food safe adhesive for plastic? Answered

I make yoghurt. I put it in jars and cups for myself. I want to make some to sell at the farmers market and so I need to put it in some plastic glasses. I was thinking of using a plastic wine glass for individual serving size. How can I safely adhere a plastic film over the mouth of the glass?

Question by redorchestra    |  last reply


What mysterious force holds the plastic pizza signage to the top of this moving car? Answered

The attached photo was taken recently at an undisclosed location, somewhere in the Former United States (FUS). In it you can see a plastic sign-thingy on top of a moving car. My question is this: What mysterious forces keep the plastic sign-thingy from sliding off the car due to the effects of wind and inertial pseudoforces. What holds the sign to the top of the car? Is it powerful magnets? Double-sided sticky tape? Is it perhaps... love? Has anyone seen one of these artifacts up close, and/or knows for sure what the physical mechanism is?

Question by Jack A Lopez    |  last reply


Which adhesives are either water or polymer based? Answered

I am trying to make this and it suggests either a water or polymer based adhesive, but I can't find which ones qualify. Alternatively, what adhesive would you suggest I use?

Question by bomberman3    |  last reply


Which adhesive can be used in chemical environment?

Searching for an adhesive which can be used for chemical glassware where it doesn't react with chemicals and having thermal stability as well.

Question by anujiitian    |  last reply


what's a good adhesive to sticking tinfoil to plastic?

I want to use some foil wrappers leftover Halloween candy for decorations but my initial attempts either peeled off or never quite dried.  What's a good adhesive to sticking tinfoil to plastic? cheers, flashj

Topic by flashj    |  last reply


Best adhesive for attaching plywood to flashing? Edit?

The question pretty much says it all. I'm looking to attach plywood strips to a sheet of metal flashing. There is no place for screws or other physical methods of attachment. I have never used adhesives that much so I'm not really sure what would be the best for me to use. Thank you in advance!!!

Question by SOLRUK    |  last reply


Safe adhesive/sealant for coating flash drives?

I've sen a few Instructables on modding your USB flash drives, and was plan on modding one of mine. I've ordered some Bullet Bill toys and have an old flash drive ready to go. I figure "liquid electrical tape" would be the best option for filling the gaps and sealing the drive into the toy, but are there any safe cheaper options? I don't know if it's relevant (I know bugger all about electronics), but here's a picture of the flash drive in question:

Question by Shampyon    |  last reply


Heated print beds - are they overrated gimmicks?

For years now I use my old, trusty Mega Prusa with the bare basics in terms of hardware. But basically every new printer out there comes with heated print beds and most users "upgrade" to one to get better quality prints. So I started to to check the reprap forums and other websites to find out why a heated would be a "must have". Quite a simple task you might think, but not so for someone who prints every material on a cold bed with success... What are the official pro statements for a heated bed? 1. Better bed adhesion of course. 2. Less warping of parts. 3. Far less problems with layer seperation. 4. Better print results. And of course there are a few more but not worth listing them. Why do I think most of the four statements are actually unrelated to using a heated bed? Bed adhesion is a matter of print material and surface of the bed / bed preperation, like tape, glue and such. If you filament peels off a cold bed with no adhesion at all it simply means the surface is either unclean or unsuited for the print material. Warping of parts happens because the material shrinks when it cools down, a heated bed is only able to keep a certain height of the print warm. Higher prints won't have any benefit in terms of better layer adhesion with a heated bed. Same goes for seperating layers. Unlike the common believe a heated bed does not fix this problem - it only masks it! Layers seperate because there is not enough bonging between them. This can be due to insuffient extrusion width, too high print layers, wrong print temperature and of course wrong z-axis stepping and wrong extrusion multiplicator. And how good a print comes out of your printer depends on a good calibration and proper print settings - again a heated bed only masks problems ;) Ok, so heated beds are nonsense, right? Well, wrong again ;) They take a lot of worry out of the daily print life to start with. Especially prints with big foot print will benefit, although PLA should never be a problem on a cold bed. If you print long parts in ABS or even Nylon you can have a hard time forcing the plastic to stay on the bed all around the print. A heated bed, with the right settings of course, can make sure your print keeps the shape until it is high enough so the bottom part won't be affected by shrinking anymore. My opinion on how to get the best results... Manage to print on a cold bed first! Smaller parts don't need a heated bed anyway, so use them to improve on your skills of finding the perfect bed material / coating! You will find that once you have really optimised your printer and settings most parts won't need a heated bed anymore. Once you are really happy with the result of smaller prints on a cold bed try something bigger and pay close attention to any problems on the way. For example a big print might start out perfectly but after about 5-10mm of print height you see the part starts to warp and slowly peels of the print bed - especially long parts or thin areas are affected. The infill also affects how a parts reacts during the cooling, so try the same problem print with solid infill as well as only 15% infill to compare - you can stop the print once the problem is identified, don't waste filament. Now comes the magic of the heated bed... You want the temp as low as possible but still high enough to prevent the warping! Why go low if high would help more?? Simply said: If the bed is too hot the part stays soft for a long time, which can badly affect layer bonding and shape. Imagine you squish the plastic on an already "hard" layer - the plastic is pressed flat to be within the set specs. Now if the the layer is still too hot and soft the plastic will push the lower layer in - which of course will expand outwards. So the layer can actually end up to be lower than it should be - layer will still peel ;) Start with around 50° C for ABS and turn the heat down gradually every 10 layers or 25 if you print really thin layers. If the part still prefers to warp go 10 degrees higher. But again: If the stuff would not stick properly on a cold bed work on that first! How do I print on a cold bed and claim it works fine? To be honest, with a lot of time spent on trying, calibrating and finding the right "magic" to put on the glass to make things stick. Nylon, if the part is big, can still be a frustrating task unless cardboard or Bakelite is used but I still prefer the glass bed. I no longer bother with tapes as it can be costly and I hate changing the entire setup just because I use a different material ;) As said, the main key is a proper calibration of hard- and software! If your prints look messy and you spend as much time cleaning your parts as printing them you know what I mean ;) At the moment my "bed magic" is a clear craft glue with methanol as a solvent, mine is from Aldi but similar products can be found in every craft store. The bed is sanded with 600 grid diamond blocks to be as flat as possible and to provide a bigger surface area for the glue. When mostly printing Nylon is first clean the bed with alcohol and put a layer of plastic primer on it before re-applying the glue. With the right temp settings this glue surface can be reused several times with increasing bond to the part. Once the glue start peeling off the bed it cut the area clean and apply another coat just in the spot. A single bottle of craft glue, diluted down by 20%, lasted now about 3 rolls of filament - not too bad for a 2$ investment LOL Seriously though, squeeky clean your glass bed using alcohol and / or acetone and play with different types of craft glue. You want the stuff that is clear and uses either methanol or ethanol as the solvent, don't bother with water based glues! If the glue sticks well to your part but peels off the bed easily try a layer of plastic primer on the bed first - do this outside! However, if your printer is only capable of using PLA anyway you might not want to bother at all and stick to tape ;)

Topic by Downunder35m  


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


How do I remove vinyl tile adhesive?

I am removing some cheap vinyl tile squares, but it leaves adhesive on the underneath floor, which I want to keep.  What can I use to dissolve, remove or clean the adhesive?

Question by bodie1    |  last reply


Recommend a transparent adhesive for large PVC sheet with glass?

To decorate a shop window, I have a colorful large foamed PVC sheet (1.5 x 6 meters) want to stick with the shop window, color side of the PVC sheet face out. Please recommend a cost effective transparent adhesive. (similar as attached image without frame)

Question by ericzheng    |  last reply


Best adhesive for securing plastic enclosure to silicone surface?

I am getting a silicone rubber skin/case for my Kindle in order to make a custom mount.  In addition I need to put a compartment on the back of the case to house some electronics components.  It will be put inside of a plastic enclosure, so I need to figure out how to secure that plastic enclosure to the back of the silicone case.  I was thinking of using Velcro, but I don't know if that is secure enough, or if the adhesive backing is strong enough for either the plastic or silicone surfaces.  What would be the best kind of adhesive in this situation?

Question by dmehling1    |  last reply


What is Polyurethane Construction Adhesive? (DIY Clamp Question)?

I'm building a wooden clamp, and I've seen people use Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, and I don't know exactly what it is. Of course it's an adhesive, but I can't seem to find the properties that define it... I also know that it's really expensive, and has a very short shelf life, so I want to maximize my use out of it, if I buy it. Is it sticky, before and when cured? When cured, is it brittle like super glue? Hard like epoxy? Fairly soft like Hot-Glue, or very soft like silicone adhesive? Does it adhere better than most epoxies to wood metal? Do you think it could glue a threaded to rod to a wooden handle strong enough on a homemade clamp? Is it the expanding glue? Do most types stink like crazy? (worse than most Epoxies) Do you think it is worth the price? Is it that much better than Epoxy? Thanks!

Question by Yonatan24    |  last reply


How to remove old adhesive from Bakelite plastic? Answered

Recently put back in to use an old Northern Telecom rotary dial telephone.  It works awesome and ironically it has the best sound out of all my phones, huh..  Anyway, the case is Bakelite plastic.  On it was an old label that had its phone number, contact info, yada yada yada...  I peel it off, but under neath the old adhesive made the plastic look matte, as opposed to the original glossy black that the rest of the phone has.  Any idea as to solvents to gently break down the adhesive, yet not effect the old Bakelite plastic?

Question by iminthebathroom    |  last reply


Plastic to plastic: "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy?

Plastic to plastic: "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy? What are the pros and cons of each? I need to glue two different types of plastic together, and I'm not sure if I should use "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy. Or, I could use contact adhesive on the facing surfaces, let it cure, and then add epoxy around the edges where the parts join. I'm not exactly sure what types of plastics these are. So far the contact adhesive seem to be curing well and I'm hopeful that two-part epoxy will also work well. I'm building a mount to hold a camera to a bicycle (and plan to publish a how-to when it's done), so it will need to be strong, resistant to vibration and weather, and strong. I really don't want to drop the camera: It's close enough to a wheel that a tether could cause more immediate problems than letting the camera hit the ground. Thanks! Update: Both the contact adhesive and epoxy (separately) seem to be holding the test pieces well. It'll be another 18+ hours before I really start yanking on them but it seems like either type of adhesive would be decent. Of course, I want more than decent; I want excellent!

Question by the.smasher    |  last reply


What Adhesive and or Sealant to decoupage a car with fabric, paper, & ...?

Hi Guys, Maria in Florida here. Bought a 2013 Honda Fit which I love but is all black. Did I mention I live in FLORIDA? It would have to withstand relentless Sun & Water, dry slow enough so that I can manipulate materials and remove air bubbles before they harden, be flexible enough to accept movement within the frame and dry hard as diamonds.  Oh, and if it could take a coat or two of wax so I can keep up the shine that´d be great too. I don´t plan to put anything 3-dimensional so at least there´s that?! Many thanks for any suggestions. Cheers and Can´t wait to hear from all you brilliant ¨Instructablers.¨ :)

Question by lasuperchica59    |  last reply


Epoxy vs resorcinol or other adhesives for boat building

I've been a big fan of epoxy for a long time. It's been recommended to me as the best glue ever, and lately as a great/durable coating to be used like paint. It's so popular that companies are starting to market things as epoxies that might be related but, really are something else. FYI anything sold as a "one part epoxy" is not an epoxy at all. it's something else. Epoxies must be 2 part.My father started building wooden model sailboat, and wanted to use Resorcinol. What?? Never heard of it. can't be good. must be toxic. use epoxy, Dad. Lately, I've heard differently, with some caveats.This was mentioned on www.woodenboat.com forums:http://www.cpadhesives.com/media/ClassicBoatAppendix.pdfThe upshot is that epoxy bond strength weakens dramatically with exposure to heat or (maybe?) saltwater or UV light. Additionally, epoxy's bond is not as fatigue resistant as wood. So using it as a structural bond is questionable. Using it in hot (120F+) environments is questionable. Using it in saltwater environments is questionable.Since boats sit in the sun, tend to flex, and are often exposed to saltwater, how can we possibly use epoxies in long term situations.I had to search hard to find any info on Resorcinol, but it's cheaper, supposedly lasts longer. But, as far as I can tell, it's really hard to find. Comments?

Topic by danlocks    |  last reply


Nylon and substitutes on a cold bed

It's been some time and I made progress with Nylon. Aldi had some cheap craft glue with methanol as the solvent - this stuff works great for PLA, ABS AND Nylon. The common problem with nylon is that it has no real adhesion to anything, except cardboard and bakelite. Cardboard makes a clean up nightmare and bakelite is not always easy to find, especially not the right type. So I tried various glues, paints and primers but none was really suited for all printing needs. And the cleanup of the bed is imoprtant too as I did not want to spend hours scrubbing with acetone or similar nasty solvents. After the first great succes with the clear Aldi craft glue I checked the local 2$ shops and carft stores and found similar glueswith methanol as a solvent. Since not everyone is lucky enough to get these specials I will tell you what to look out for if you try clear craft glue: Don't buy anything that can be cleaned up with water - you want methanol or ethanol as the solvent in the glue! Do a test with the glue on something that usually does not bind well to cheap glue, like glass and blister packs. Let the glue dry and peel it off - it should be a clear film that is quite strong and barely streches when you pull it. It almost feels like hard paper. All good so far? Check if the nylon, pla or abs really sticks to it: Spread a very thin layer on a piece of cardboard and let dry. Add another, thicker layer and let dry again. Now hold it under your nozzle and extrude a bit of filament while moving the cardboard around. Let cool and check how good it sticks. In a perfect world the cool plastic should peel the papaer off with the glue. Time to prepare your print bed the same way and to start printing ;) Just use a very thin first layer and for the first layer much lower speeds than usual. I print nylon with 60mm/s and the first layer at just 25mm/s, any faster and the first layer does not look right. ABS and PLA are much more forgiving here.

Topic by Downunder35m  


How Can I Melt Rubber Bands to Use as an Adhesive?

Title says it all.

Question by Thelonelysandwitch    |  last reply


I need a adhesive for ceramic tile that can be used outdoor

I need a adhesive for ceramic tile that can be used outdoor and it should be for a 'thin bed application' which means for adhering tile that is 1/8" to 1/4" thick.thanks a lot.

Question by ewcia1028    |  last reply


Which Glue/Adhesive Should I Use With EL Wire? Answered

Which Glue Should I Use With EL Wire? I want to glue some EL wire to glass, Which adhesive should I use? Which ones can you recommend? It would also be the best to use a clear adhesive My preferred ones are: Super Glue (cyanoacrylate) Hot Glue Clear Silicone

Question by Yonatan24    |  last reply


Has anyone tried using adhesive vinyl as drum rap? Answered

I want to refinish my drum kit and i was wondering if adhesive vinyl would work or any other ideas for a low budget

Question by cap n crunch    |  last reply


Whath is the best end low price adhesive for concrete admixture?

Glue, binder, etc.... for develop internal hard strenght

Question by vasni.esquina  


Is it possible to use hot glue as an adhesive for LTD stirling engines? Answered

Is it possible to use hot glue as an adhesive for building low temperatue difference (LTD) stirling engines? I was wondering because I do not want to buy epoxy or other expensive glue. Will I be able to use hot glue, or will the glue melt from the heat of a cup of boiling water? 

Question by Zippo1234    |  last reply


Best adhesive to attach used wine corks to wood and/or plastic? Answered

I'm making a door mat of old natural corks, so the adhesive needs to be heat resistant and waterproof.  The corks will be spaced, to allow dirt & water to pass through; so, the adhesive should be strong enough to withstand the daily treading, without the benefit of the support of other corks packed closely together. My first thought was to hot glue, but that has no flexibility and the corks would probably pop loose very quickly. I've seen wine cork instructables using wood glue, Gorilla (R) glue and rubber cement. I haven't worked with the first two.  Any experience with these materials? Your input is appreciated; thanks, Community!

Question by meowzebub    |  last reply


Greetings. Seeking any advice on a food safe adhesive for pebbles.... Answered

Recently built a pebble patio under my orgainically maintained apple tree d/t area always muddy from lack of sun. I need to spray the pebbles with some sort of  adhesive to maintain the pebble's integrity.  Any homemade suggestions or store- bought would be happily embraced. 

Question by aconitine    |  last reply


Is there a way to solder aluminum together other than using adhesives?

I was planning to do this instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Crystal-Ring/   and i planned to use aluminum wire that i pounded flat, since i have a hard time finding other materials suited for it but when i tried to solder it with silver solder the aluminium smelted first. next i tried to heat the whole ring and then drop a bit of smelted aluminum wire into the little gap wich worked better but not perfect. Any ideas to solve this?

Question by Ichmawida    |  last reply


is there anything duct tape won't stick to? Answered

I'm planning to make a satchel bag out of duct tape and i've pretty much figured out the mechanics on how to make it. however, for my initial plan to work out, i'm gonna need a sheet of SOMETHING that duct tape doesn't stick to, or at least, doesn't stick to as well. i'm planning to lay on the strips of duct tape on THAT and then move on from there. so, any ideas? wax paper (like the yellow stuff used as backing for stickers)? paper rubbed with oil? a certain type of cloth? WET cloth (haha)? a certain type of plastic?  thanks in advance!

Question by holocausticity    |  last reply


What adhesive to use for gluing zip lock bag material to fabric?

I have a project in mind which I want to line with a food safe material. After some consideration It boiled down to just using pieces cut from a zip lock bag and cotton material. I'm going to hem the 2 materials together but don't want the zip lock material slouching and separating from the cotton material in the middle. If I used a spray adhesive for fabric to adhere the zip lock material flat to the cotton will the adhesive show through the zip lock liner? I want it to look clear so cotton material shows through the plastic like laminated cotton but don't want to use that material. Any ideas or product suggestions? Thanks.

Question by lexpres61    |  last reply


What's a good adhesive or epoxy for adhering to metal that can be drilled and tapped? Answered

I've got a 1/4" copper fitting. I'm looking for a non-conductive adhesive to fill it up halfway, drill and tap it so a spark plug can screw into the end. I was trying to find a nut earlier that would screw onto the end of a spark plug with an o-ring, no luck at the hardware store. I'll probably do the same thing with a few larger sized nuts: fill, drill, tap.  And I'm just looking for a decently priced multi-purpose adhesive (non-conductive). And I will be needing a conductive one fairly soon.  JBweld seems to be popular in some groups. I don't know if it's non-conductive. It would also be nice if it could adhere to pvc, too. :-)

Question by Vorenus    |  last reply


Non-toxic, natural, cheap and WATER-PROOF adhesive or glue, is this impossible?

I'm a quality engineer working for a company in Turkey, the company collects the coaldust ( powder form of the coal )  from all the cities of Turkey and makes them briquettes by pressing with very powerful machines. Of course we use some adhesives for mechanical strength of the briquettes. We use CMC (a kind of cellulose) and this material is soluable in water. So our briquettes are not very durable under rain or moisture. Now I have to change the binder or adhesive materials in order to produce waterproof briquettes. I dont know how it's possible. I have to use nontoxic natural materials, and cheap as well. Last week I tried to do something but we were unlucky maybe. I tried to use Technical Gelatin and Alum (Al. Sulphate ) together, the briquettes seemed very good after production but they were not durable when I left them in a cup of water. So I have to find a solution now. Can you help me about that? I'd be very pleased. Thanks.

Question by enisdogru    |  last reply


How to reduce the viscosity of Silicone caulk without weakening adhesion property? Answered

I am looking to screen some patterns with silicone on different surfaces like hardboard, MDF, carboard etc. For that I diluted Silicone caulk with Xylene and added some normal oil paint. I was able to get positive result except that the dilution weakened the adhesion property of the silicone which ultimately failed the whole experiment. The screened layer was about 1mm thick. The cured layer could easily be removed by gentle rubbing with finger or thumb.

Question by abuhafss    |  last reply