Search for adhesive in Topics

I'm doing a project for a high school competition in which I built a computer and plan to skin it. I've got my skins draw and (soon to be) printed. Heres my issue, how to attach them to the computer case? I need an adhesive thats heat resistant and won't ruin as the computer warms up, it also needs to be flat in that the skin does not stick away from the case. (Some sort of spray adhesive or paint on glue). If I could get any suggestions or a good brand name I'd be very thankful.

I'm looking for an adhesive that will bond plastic to plastic, is waterproof, and is also non-toxic. I am attending an "anything but cups" party and am planning to use a Magic 8 Ball. I know that there is a canister inside which holds the die and blue liquid. I believe in order to take that out, I need to open the entire ball. I don't think that it will snap back together in a way that won't leak. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

What glue/adhesive do you use for fastening jewels/metal to brooch settings, fabric, and other jewelry? Thanks for your help :)

Hi, I'm looking for some suggestions of what I'll call (out of ignorance) "semi-adhesive materials". I am looking for a large sheet that can be folded, or preferably tightly rolled (think a window blind) and a variety of shapes that can be stuck on and repositioned. I've had a look at display felt for use with hook and loop stickers. The felt is quite thick and expensive. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experimented with this kind of project. Flexible magnetic material, or some kind of static attraction or something? Cheaper the better really, but durability is a big concern too. Any pointers in directions to look would be greatly appreciated.

I've been hunting for an adhesive or glue to build projects out of plexiglass.  The clear plastic available in many local hardware stores.  Talking to the stores I have been directed to purchase glues that they stock, but these never provide me with the bonding I am looing for.  I suppose what I am looking for is a chemical weld similar to what you get working with pvc and the glues available for those water tight seals.

Hi I'm looking for a natural, cheap water resistant adhesive that can be applied to plant matter Ideally soluble in hot water so it can be easily applied but insoluble in cold water. Any ideas?

I need an adhesive or fill material with some special properties. It should be a moderately viscous liquid that sets up into something very flexible, jellylike would be ideal. It should be applicable in very small quantities. It should flow before curing and be self leveling unlike silicone adhesive. Tensile strength is relatively unimportant. It should not adhere to two part tin based casting silicone. An analogy that comes to mind is E6000 adhesive but it's viscosity is a bit too low and it sets up way too hard. UV cured resin like Loon UV Knot Sense (great stuff that I learned about here) comes close and has the right viscosity also but also cures too hard. If you know of anything, I've got a project on hold until I find something and would greatly appreciate advice.

I want to glue hard plastic brackets to the inside of a fibreglass pond. Contact area will be around 18" x 2". They will be continuously underwater. Is Araldite the best glue to use for this or is there something better?

Due to lack of welding equipment now, I am looking for any adhesives that can be used to joining small bits of metal attached to one another, any suggestions?

Does anyone know an easily accessible adhesive that will neither melt or conduct electricity?? I'm using it for the cotton candy machine, which by the way, is really close to completion!

I need to repair a standard ceramic coffee mug. It has broken, very cleanly, into 3 separate pieces.  When complete it needs to be able to withstand typical daily uses i.e. a microwave, dishwasher, boiling water. Ideally the repair will be invisible. What is the best adhesive  to use?

I ordered glitter halters for my horses but the glitter falls off. Is there a safe product I can use on the halters to keep the glitter on without any danger to my horses either toxic smell or indigestion? 

I need some suggestions to firmly stick plastic with concrete, the bond should be really strong, as the concrete is of 10 Kgs and is placed over a large plastic drum and the system will vibrate violently. I tried Super Glue but it did not work.

Hi all,  I really need your help. My son has a dress up party and is determined to stick this prop to his body. It is not heavy but I need an adhesive to stick it to him that ideally would be water soluble and not irritate his skin.  Is there anything anyone can think of? Thank you so much Eliza 

What is great adhesive for gluing plastic beads on wood ? Epoxy glue? I also thinked super glue. I would like to glue plastic bead center of wooden pendant. Is anyone done this before?

I need to make a decal/sticker that will withstand heat, sweat and humidity as well as remove easily from plastic without damaging the case. What is the best type of adhesive and/ore decal paper that copes well with the conditions stated above? I'm working on a project that I wish to remain discreet about.

I want to make a smooth drawing surface to place on a dining room table. The material I have on hand is used mylar sheets from an engineering shop, about the thickness of paper. I'd like to cut the sheets down to quarter-size or so and laminate several thicknesses together to make a semi-rigid surface.  I've tried several adhesives I have on hand, and the one that works best is Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, but even that doesn't stick very well. So, what's the best option to glue this stuff together, keeping in mind that I don't want anything thick that will distort the sheets or create a lot of bubbles?

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

I make yoghurt. I put it in jars and cups for myself. I want to make some to sell at the farmers market and so I need to put it in some plastic glasses. I was thinking of using a plastic wine glass for individual serving size. How can I safely adhere a plastic film over the mouth of the glass?

I am getting a silicone rubber skin/case for my Kindle in order to make a custom mount.  In addition I need to put a compartment on the back of the case to house some electronics components.  It will be put inside of a plastic enclosure, so I need to figure out how to secure that plastic enclosure to the back of the silicone case.  I was thinking of using Velcro, but I don't know if that is secure enough, or if the adhesive backing is strong enough for either the plastic or silicone surfaces.  What would be the best kind of adhesive in this situation?

I use reusable tacky plastic sheets (mats) with the paper-backed vinyl material for making stickers and such. After quite a few cutting jobs, the very tacky substance eventually is lost to the point of failing to hold the paper in place.I would like to be able to recoat the backing board material when this happens rather than discard the mat and purchase a replacment.

Searching for an adhesive which can be used for chemical glassware where it doesn't react with chemicals and having thermal stability as well.

I want to use some foil wrappers leftover Halloween candy for decorations but my initial attempts either peeled off or never quite dried.  What's a good adhesive to sticking tinfoil to plastic? cheers, flashj

I am trying to make this and it suggests either a water or polymer based adhesive, but I can't find which ones qualify. Alternatively, what adhesive would you suggest I use?

I've sen a few Instructables on modding your USB flash drives, and was plan on modding one of mine. I've ordered some Bullet Bill toys and have an old flash drive ready to go. I figure "liquid electrical tape" would be the best option for filling the gaps and sealing the drive into the toy, but are there any safe cheaper options? I don't know if it's relevant (I know bugger all about electronics), but here's a picture of the flash drive in question:

The question pretty much says it all. I'm looking to attach plywood strips to a sheet of metal flashing. There is no place for screws or other physical methods of attachment. I have never used adhesives that much so I'm not really sure what would be the best for me to use. Thank you in advance!!!

Need Glue for my next project, please suggest glue solution. Thanks!

I would like to make myself a bespoke steampunk-esque mug using metal clockwork gears and cogs.  I've tried to find what I want ready made but nothing is quite right. What would be the best adhesive to use that would withstand regular use with hot drinks (we're talking at least a dozen cups of tea a day, I'm British) and would be dishwasher safe? I also suspect I may need to seal the pieces once stuck on, what is good for that? Thanks.

I'm looking to bond a bifurcated ceramic fish figurine to a glass window, such that half the fish is outside (exposed to the elements) and half is inside the house. The fish figurine is not perfectly smooth, but it's close. I live in Ohio, so external temperatures will range from 0 f to 100 f. What do you recommend? B.

   Has anyone found a way of removing the brown 'Original' Gorilla Glue from skin.  Earlier today I picked something up by the wrong side which I'd just coated in the stuff.  I've just spent 20 minutes washing and scrubbing my hands as per their FAQs and have just about lost the stuff, but has anyone come up with a miracle way of removing it? Note that this is the brown foaming polyurethane glue; not the cyanoacrylate type.

  I want to glue feathers to a small curved wooden box in a lifelike manner. (I know wooden boxes aren't usually feathered, but you know what I mean #;¬) The feathers are about 2 inches long and a bit fluffy.  PVA glue has been suggested elsewhere but is it possible to do this in a reasonable amount of time as I can imagine dislodging un-set feathers while adding others.  Another alternative would be is hot / cool melt glue but I can imagine this as being too bulky. Does anyone who has done this have any tips?

Recently put back in to use an old Northern Telecom rotary dial telephone.  It works awesome and ironically it has the best sound out of all my phones, huh..  Anyway, the case is Bakelite plastic.  On it was an old label that had its phone number, contact info, yada yada yada...  I peel it off, but under neath the old adhesive made the plastic look matte, as opposed to the original glossy black that the rest of the phone has.  Any idea as to solvents to gently break down the adhesive, yet not effect the old Bakelite plastic?

I'm building a wooden clamp, and I've seen people use Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, and I don't know exactly what it is. Of course it's an adhesive, but I can't seem to find the properties that define it... I also know that it's really expensive, and has a very short shelf life, so I want to maximize my use out of it, if I buy it. Is it sticky, before and when cured? When cured, is it brittle like super glue? Hard like epoxy? Fairly soft like Hot-Glue, or very soft like silicone adhesive? Does it adhere better than most epoxies to wood metal? Do you think it could glue a threaded to rod to a wooden handle strong enough on a homemade clamp? Is it the expanding glue? Do most types stink like crazy? (worse than most Epoxies) Do you think it is worth the price? Is it that much better than Epoxy? Thanks!

Hi Guys, Maria in Florida here. Bought a 2013 Honda Fit which I love but is all black. Did I mention I live in FLORIDA? It would have to withstand relentless Sun & Water, dry slow enough so that I can manipulate materials and remove air bubbles before they harden, be flexible enough to accept movement within the frame and dry hard as diamonds.  Oh, and if it could take a coat or two of wax so I can keep up the shine that´d be great too. I don´t plan to put anything 3-dimensional so at least there´s that?! Many thanks for any suggestions. Cheers and Can´t wait to hear from all you brilliant ¨Instructablers.¨ :)

I am removing some cheap vinyl tile squares, but it leaves adhesive on the underneath floor, which I want to keep.  What can I use to dissolve, remove or clean the adhesive?

To decorate a shop window, I have a colorful large foamed PVC sheet (1.5 x 6 meters) want to stick with the shop window, color side of the PVC sheet face out. Please recommend a cost effective transparent adhesive. (similar as attached image without frame)

Plastic to plastic: "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy? What are the pros and cons of each? I need to glue two different types of plastic together, and I'm not sure if I should use "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy. Or, I could use contact adhesive on the facing surfaces, let it cure, and then add epoxy around the edges where the parts join. I'm not exactly sure what types of plastics these are. So far the contact adhesive seem to be curing well and I'm hopeful that two-part epoxy will also work well. I'm building a mount to hold a camera to a bicycle (and plan to publish a how-to when it's done), so it will need to be strong, resistant to vibration and weather, and strong. I really don't want to drop the camera: It's close enough to a wheel that a tether could cause more immediate problems than letting the camera hit the ground. Thanks! Update: Both the contact adhesive and epoxy (separately) seem to be holding the test pieces well. It'll be another 18+ hours before I really start yanking on them but it seems like either type of adhesive would be decent. Of course, I want more than decent; I want excellent!

Wanted to cover my wall in posters. I've seen directions for wheat glue but i was wondering if theres anything better. Would like it to be removable and harmless for the posters in case i were to decide to paint my walls. THANKS A BUNCH!

I got some semi-transparent acrylic laser cut by ponoko and I want to adhere it to a backing made of Delrin.  Since the acrylic is semi-transparent, I'd like to use a glue which dries clear.  I've scoured the interwebs, but most of the glues I found are non-transparent.  Any ideas? The piece will just hang on a wall - it doesn't need to withstand significant stresses or anything.  Thanks!

Hi there,In about a month I will receive my new electric longboard and I want to do a little upgrade which I saw on the internet, but I have some concerns about the glue they suggested since none did long term testing on it.So here is the idea:1. Get some MTB tire and cut it into strips with length same as circumference of the longboard wheel.2. Sand and clean with alcohol both surfaces3. Apply glue on both surfaces, push them together and keep it under medium pressure for at least 24 -48 hours til the glue cures.I saw 2 people who did this, one of them used some strong adhesive double sided tape, and the other some dollar store super glue (which is bad idea, after curing it becomes brittle, not really suitable for wheel), both of them wrote, that it held pretty well, but they did not ride it like this in long term.I got a good tip from someone to use E6000 glue, E6000 is strong, vibration proof, elastic, waterproof,... but it's more designed for wood and metal surface, which is not my case, since the longboard wheel is PU and the MTB tire is some kind of rubber.Things to keep in mind:1. Glue must withstand high pressure (105kg person standing on board where the weight is distributed to 4 wheels when standing still, now count with road cracks, turning,... where the pressure from the weight will skyrocket for few milliseconds) 2. Glue must withstand higher and lower temperatures and wet conditions, let's say the sun shines on the road whole day while ambient temperature is 35 degrees celsius, wheels will heat up, or in winter where the temperature of the road will be 5 or more degrees of celsius, Or if I ride through a puddle, same thing.3. Glue must absorb shocks, so it cannot be brittle when cured.What I came up on the internet there are 2 choices:1. E6000 (I have it at home, but currently I have no materials to test it)2. Permabond 731 (which I did not find in any online store in our country)Please suggest me at least 2 best possible glues.Before & After images in attachmentThank you

I've been a big fan of epoxy for a long time. It's been recommended to me as the best glue ever, and lately as a great/durable coating to be used like paint. It's so popular that companies are starting to market things as epoxies that might be related but, really are something else. FYI anything sold as a "one part epoxy" is not an epoxy at all. it's something else. Epoxies must be 2 part.My father started building wooden model sailboat, and wanted to use Resorcinol. What?? Never heard of it. can't be good. must be toxic. use epoxy, Dad. Lately, I've heard differently, with some caveats.This was mentioned on www.woodenboat.com forums:http://www.cpadhesives.com/media/ClassicBoatAppendix.pdfThe upshot is that epoxy bond strength weakens dramatically with exposure to heat or (maybe?) saltwater or UV light. Additionally, epoxy's bond is not as fatigue resistant as wood. So using it as a structural bond is questionable. Using it in hot (120F+) environments is questionable. Using it in saltwater environments is questionable.Since boats sit in the sun, tend to flex, and are often exposed to saltwater, how can we possibly use epoxies in long term situations.I had to search hard to find any info on Resorcinol, but it's cheaper, supposedly lasts longer. But, as far as I can tell, it's really hard to find. Comments?

I want to reuse beer bottles to make drinking glasses but am going to have to glue glass to glass. I don't want the alcohol in the beer to break down the glue and either a) poison someone or b) have the glass come apart while drinking from it.  Any suggestions?

I see that people recommend using different kinds of solvent (and lots of elbow grease) to get the adhesive residue off, but I have an area that is north of 500 sq. feet.  Tile is off and we'd like to stain the concrete.  Thanks for any suggestions.

I'm putting the pipe system together for my solar thing, which needs to contain hot ethanol, not under significant pressure. What kind of sealant / adhesive can I use that won't dissolve in the ethanol? I'm gluing together mostly plastics like PVC, but also steel and aluminium.

I haven't had the pleasure of working with EL wire, only because I can't discover a sleek and not so damaging way of mounting it. I don't want to leave holes in my wall, and I don't want to destroy it. At the same time, I also want to mount it in the interior of my car, but the same problem arises. How can I mount the EL wire on my wall and on my car ceiling? Adhesive maybe?

I want this to be a rather permanent solution, and the "Trinkets" come in many different forms, but are mostly plastic, i have one or two wooden ones, and a couple paper/cardboard ones. And i really don't care about washing, as i'll probably only wear it once.

Which Glue Should I Use With EL Wire? I want to glue some EL wire to glass, Which adhesive should I use? Which ones can you recommend? It would also be the best to use a clear adhesive My preferred ones are: Super Glue (cyanoacrylate) Hot Glue Clear Silicone

Title says it all.

Is it possible to use hot glue as an adhesive for building low temperatue difference (LTD) stirling engines? I was wondering because I do not want to buy epoxy or other expensive glue. Will I be able to use hot glue, or will the glue melt from the heat of a cup of boiling water?