Question about airbrush

I have an airbrush, which works very well. I was wondering if I put some very fine sand in the pot, would this work as a sandblaster, for etching designs into glass? Thanks, Tom

Topic by tomc3uk   |  last reply

what is the best paint to us in an airbrush? and what stores can I find it at?

I've just bought a simple airbrush set and it did not have information on the type of paint to use.

Question by jhudgel   |  last reply

Air Brushin'

Various shirts that I airbrushed for friends and family. 

Topic by mighty_wombat   |  last reply

homemade paint gun/ airbrush

Ok well me and a friend of mine have been experimenting with making our own paint gun. we are doing for two reasons. well we want to airbrush some things but we don't have one adn we don't have much money, and we need something to do so it occupies time. we have gone throught many trials and errors and quite a few have failed. we now have one that works acually pretty well. it composes of blowgun attached to an aircompresser, there is a "t" fitting at the other end of the blowgun, at one part of the "t" fitting is a little attachment that goes to a small water bottle, and at part of the water bottle is a little nozzle(nozzle2). than at the other part of the "t" fitting is another nozzle (nozzle1). those nozzles are really close to each other. you put the paint in the water bottle and supply air to it than it paints(sometimes) i was just wondering if anyone knew how to make it better or had another idea for a paint gun? any comment that is related to the topic is welcome and thanks for any feedback. i am sorry if that is confusing.

Topic by zipzapper859 

how can i make step by step, a homemade air compressor?

I would like steb by step informations because i haven t done it again and i am not a pro

Question by panther54321   |  last reply

i have a what?

Well i bought an airbrush and paint but now what can i do with it . i was ganna use it to just put a basic paint on my xbox 260. but it wasnt ganna have like aiirbrush deatails just what a ratle can would do. and i dotn see how ppl do it the streem is really wide and stuff.

Topic by fretmelter   |  last reply

What can I use for airbrush paints? Answered

OK, so I recently bought an airbrush set for $20 at a garage sale. I don't have an air compressor, so I bought the canned proppelant stuff and the nozzle attachment I need, for another $20. Then, I noticed there wasn't a hose in the kit, so I spent about 12 more bucks. I would love to try it out, but I don't have airbrush paint, and I am reluctant to spend any more money on this project. I do, however, have some standard Testors model paint laying around my workbench. Will this work in my airbrush or will it clog it up or damage it in any way?Thanks,Noahh

Question by noahh   |  last reply

Airbrush compressor TC-20, how many watts???

Hi guys, i recently bought a mini compressor for cake decorating. Its a "ABD TC-20" and i bought it at TCPglobal. Problem is, i dont know how many Watts it uses! You see, i bought it as a pressent for my wife. "Nice? Yes!" "Bought with my nose and not my brain? Yes! Im living in Holland, and our network works on 220volt at 50Hz. The compressor i bought works on american standerd, 110volt at 60hz. So i need a converter to make the machine work without frying its circuits... If i buy a converter specificaly for this machine, it has to have the right amount of Watts. i know, i can buy a converter that handles Watts in the range of 1000Watts, cuzz more watts on a converter is better, but than i'd have to buy one thats quite expensive. Because if the compressor only uses, lets say, 50 watts, i could buy one that has a max of about 100 / 150 for a waaaay lesser price than the one thats more powerfull. It would be 50EU for the smaller converter against 200EU or more for the bigger one. So, if you happen to know something on this subject, i would be more than happy with any info you've got ;-) greets! P.S. At the moment i wrote this, the package is stil on its way from america to my house. So i dont have a box or machine sticker to sneak the info i need from...

Topic by AriedeB   |  last reply

come look around

I was advised by another member to invite people in forum to come look around my page and sites - I think if you go to my page website is listed there...gotta go run to the job job :( :( but feel free to stop in

Topic by originalsbykaty   |  last reply

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

***FS: Disney Pirates of The Carribean Davy Jones Mask customized and airbrushed***

I have for sale a limited edition officially licensed Disney Davy Jones Mask that has been customized with foam and latex on the tentacles to be 3D and more realistic just like the movie version. This mask also has been custom airbrushed again to be closer in reproduction to the movie version. Please see pictures! This is already an extremely rare piece and the fact that its been customized....this is a true 1 of a kind, only one in production like this! Paypal FF accepted $85 shipped anywhere in the continental US Thanks for looking Jeff

Topic by xtremevette   |  last reply

What kind of paint to use and style of painting(feel hand airbrush)? Answered

 I am wanting to paint a full face black Bell motorcycle helmet. Or i want to mod it by adding brittle plastic. any ideas on either one? Thank you. And yes i want to wear it riding.

Question by Zergling_pack   |  last reply

Digital table pens

Has anyone thought about making their own pen/airbrush for digital tablets? Was wondering if anyone had suggestions / advise / &/or an instructable that they would share. thanks

Topic by Lord_Pruitt   |  last reply

how to make a full size modelling desk for wargames like warhammer? Answered

Wargaming, building scenery, airbrushing booth, drying racks etc allso paint storage, tool storage, easy acces and working fot other kinds of models, scale modelling etc...

Question by Varenberg   |  last reply

DIY Challenge Portable Filtered Ventilation System

Hello inventors and creative minds. I'm an airbrush enthusiast and I'm looking for an inexpensive way to build a portable ventilation system. I'm curious if anyone has built something that would work by using cheap home filters. Please send any ideas and suggestions

Topic by lancruz   |  last reply

Photoshop Disasters

It's not pretty when a designer mangles an image in Photoshop. Most of the image may look a little cleaner, but it's those little mistakes that distort reality that make you wonder if anyone else looked at it.This new blog, Photoshop Disasters chronicles a few of these mistakes from the overly eager airbrush to the accidental deleting of heads. Link

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply

ART HIST:I have a painting that could be an airbrush from Thayer and Chandler, 1884. Does it have any historical value?

8 X 10. Woman in profile dressed in hat and dress of late 1800's. No signature. I'm thinking it may be an example of early air brushing. There is no signature. Could it have any artistic value?

Question by    |  last reply

Artsy iPad cases?

Hello! A friend of mine recently did a brilliant painting on an iPad case which looked awesome. Then another dude got inspired and he airbrushed a piece on his. I kinda want something artsy like that, but can’t seem to find good places to get them online. Who knows where to find your not-so-standard cases online?

Topic by kaula   |  last reply

small DC 12v battery?

Hello all. i am currently working on an air powered rifle. my goal is for it to be self contained, so i took apart a testors airbrush compressor and i am fitting the compressor assembly to a 12v blower motor for an early 90s toyota 4runner. is there any way that i can make or purchase a 12v battery pack to power this thing?

Topic by dans89   |  last reply


Just found on YouTube a printer that prints on curved surfaces. As I do airbrushing which is very time consuming and the return for hours spent is very low . I can build the frame work and install print head etc. However the scanner and associated software is beyond me . please if you can help go to YouTube and type in ARTROBO . Very interesting machine . cheers and thanks laurie

Topic by lozza1950   |  last reply

pressure to flow rate conversion

Anyone know, or know where I can find out how to convert pressure to flowrate by time? I have a 3Litre cylinder of normal air, at 300psi, and I want to release the air at between 0.5CFM and 1CFM (at around 15-30psi, through an airbrush, the internal diameter of the escape wold be no more than a millimeter. how can I figure out how long it will take to reach equilibrium with the outside air? cheers naught

Topic by naught101   |  last reply

More Art Work

Well just post anything you have drwn or painted, burned, carved, sculpted or anything else. Well here is my feeble attempt at GIMP for the first time. Please if you comment on someone's art, don't be harsh. It's called constructive criticism. This is supposed to be Leonidas from 300. I'm still working on it so please comment. I would say that the most noticeable thing it the pixelation of the head dress. I will go over it with the airbrush to smoothen it up.

Topic by heavy.metal.nguyen   |  last reply

how do i build a fibreglass skateboard

 Hi im new here How do i build a fibreglass skateboard, im puzzled because they are just one peice. Are they injection moulded, or made in 2 halves and glued together, i understand you can place some plywood in the core to stiffen it. Also how is it coloured, if i want to make a blue one, is the first layer of fibreglass blue, or is it painted with an airbrush on completion, what sort of paint would be used and tough enough Many Thank - K

Topic by kc6666   |  last reply

Wiring Xbox 360 Fans, Basic Electrical Help, please.

Ok, So I ripped the cooling fans out of a dead xbox, and I'd like to use them for maybe an airbrush spray booth (depending on how much they suck) and I have some total newbie electrical questions. There are two fans rated at 12 vdc @ 0.4 amps each. I have a ac adapter with the same ratings. If I want these to run at maximum on one adapter, what rating do I need? I'm thinking 12vdc @ 0.8 amps, but I have a very limited understanding of electricity, so I'm most likely wrong. Instruct me, Instructables! Thanks very much!

Topic by hadokn   |  last reply

Forced Air Respirator?

I have a a AOS Safety respirator with P100 cartrideges and i think it is time to replace the cartridges, i have used it for hobbies when airbrushing, lathe working, fiberglass sanding, and enamel spray painting.  How do i tell when the cartridges need to be replaced?  Also i was wondering, would it be possible to convert it to a forced air respirator, by taking an old pair of cartridges and cutting out all the filters and stuff and attaching to air hoses, one to each cartridge and using dryer duct alluminum tape to make it air tight.  Then attaching some type of fan to it, or attach it to the houses a/c vent? Would this work?

Question by snowluck2345   |  last reply

What is the best way to have a clean looking flame thrower on the back of my bike?

My bike is a standard mountain bike and I wanted to give it a more custom look than my paint job. I thought the best way to do this is to add a flamethrower to match my custom paint job which will be a red pinstripe around the flame, when the flame itself is grey. The flames will have skulls airbrushed in it. The rest of the body will be black with a little red pinstriping action. Maybe even some lettering reading : "Beast". probally with the same skull and red paint scheme. I want the flamethrower to fit in with everything else well, but I don't want to change the frame much, or paint the flamethrower.

Question by matt17fan   |  last reply

Any advice for a packrat?

Step 1: Admit you have a problem.Yep, I have way too much junk.Books, magazines, old computers (some really old), salvaged stuff, furniture we didn't use after a remodeling, tools, parts saved for 'future projects,' camping stuff (how many backpacks do I really need?), old skis, clothing, etc.It's getting bad. Last week I bought a new airbrush, 'cause I couldn't find the other two I already own. And that's certainly not the first tool that's a duplicate.Both our parents (the wife's and my) were the same. My sister and brother-in-law get rid of everything to cope. But they over-compensate-- there's hardly a book or a magazine in their home (so spotless it's creepy.)Any advice? Any former 'packrats?' If so, how did you "get clean?"

Topic by gmoon   |  last reply

Need your advice for airsoft build.

Hello you all, Not new from visiting, but anyway, I have these parts, etc, that I am hoping someone is able to tell me a way, or how I can use them, to build an aeg, or something of the like _ a few motors with a gear on them. Some plastic gears. Airbrush thing from testors, and propellant can, the remains, everything but the gearbox, one of the gears. the remains of a umarex, sig 5522 commando including the plastic outside, mag, and all, just the gearbox is totaled, and so is one of the gears, and the one of the soddered on cable joints to the motor has come off again.  plenty of large and small springs. maybe some wood if any, paperclips. With the stuff, or some mentioned, Can anyone tell me how I can make a mechanism, or something so the sig can shoot again. ;D would greatly appreciate help. Crews

Topic by ccrews 

What lubricant to refill a fridge compressor with?

Hey all, I just grabbed a compressor from a fridge that had been badly mangled by a bulldozer at a demolition site, planning to make a vacuum pump or airbrush compressor (or both!) Trouble is, I thought the liquid it contained was leftover refrigerant, and drained it all out. I didn't really have a choice, as leftover freon was gassing out of the compressor (thought it had lost pressure, but there was still a little in the compressor) and it was sputtering the oil everywhere. I held it upside down while carrying it home, and when I got it here, it was apparently empty. Then I found out that what I poured out wasn't liquid freon, but actually vital oil that keeps it alive. The compressor runs fine, but I only tried it for a few seconds for fear of destruction. I have many lubricants here, motor oil, 2-stroke oil, bike chain oil, etc. If I'm to dump an oil into my compressor, any ideas on which is the best call, and roughly how much should it take?

Topic by Rectifier   |  last reply

Plastic Vehicle Body

Hey, people. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask questions about this sort of thing and I can't find anything on the web on the subject. I guess not too many people want to build a vehicle body from scratch. Anyhow, here's my situation. I have a large mobility scooter which I would like to transform into something nice for a Halloween parade. I can't do anything too fancy or professional looking because I don't have the resources for something like that. What I think I'll do is build a frame over which I'd bolt sheets of plastic that are cut in particular forms. Then I'd paint the whole thing with spray paint and touch up with an airbrush. What I need to know is which materials to use. There are all sorts of plastic out there. I won't be forming anything with heat, so at best I'll only need plastic that's not too thick and has a good surface for painting. Also, I don't know what to use for the frame. If you don't know about the materials, any sort of advice or encouragement would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Topic by Okendoze   |  last reply

Nightvision, Bouncy Balls, DIY Whiteboard...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Jan. 17, 2008 Welcome back! Check out the entries in the Lion Brand Yarn Slideshow Challenge. There are some fantastic projects and designs on display! Enter your own projects, click the button to vote for your favorites, and chat with the authors in the comment section! There's nothing like good feedback to inspire even more great projects. Check out the list here! Which of our 14 great finalists should win the $15K VersaLaser? Let us know! Check out these cool instructables! How to UPGRADE from Vista to Windows XP on a Acer laptop Did your new laptop come with Vista? Is it not as fast as you'd hoped? Here's how to switch back to XP. posted by CharredPC on Jan 9, 2007 "Hide-in-plain-sight" Cat Litterbox Build a cat litterbox that can be placed anywhere in your home. With a clever cage design, the litter doesn't spread out onto your carpet.posted by Kiribub on Jan 14, 2008 Venezia Napkin Rings Knit your own wire and bead napkin rings for Christmas or any other occasion. Each set uses 30 gauge wire and about 95 beads on each. posted by evey5268 on Jan 11, 2008 Knife Making Without Tools Make a hunting knife from a butter knife by rubbing it on wet pavement and wrapping the handle with cord. It looks and feels good in the hand. posted by TimAnderson on Jan 11, 2008 Super Nightvision Headset Hack! Make a Super Bright Nightvision Headset that lets you walk around in total darkness AND record what you see! posted by Kipkay on Jan 16, 2008 Voting Booth Rate your favorites! Vote on the finalist pages! The DIY Fisheye Lens — Using Nothin' But a Pair of Old Glasses and Some Tape (Photojojo)Instructables has teamed up with Photojojo bring you some really cool photograph tutorials, like this one for a slick DIY fisheye lens. Homemade Whiteboard Do whiteboard prices seem way too high? Make your own to get the dimensions you want and save a lot of cash. posted by ausable on Jan 8, 2008 Furoshiki: Have Bed Sheet Will TravelFuroshiki is a Japanese method of tying a piece of cloth into a wrapping or in this case a kickin' bag. posted by keng on Jan 13, 2008 Make a Super Bouncy Ball Learn how to make a great little toy using a chemical reaction and easy-to-get chemicals. Great science-fun for kids! posted by on Jan 9, 2008 Bluetooth PSP/PS2 Headset Mod Use a Bluetooth device for PSP games and the upcoming Skype addition. Also works for chatting while playing PS2 games on the PS3. posted by N3M3515 on Jan 15, 2008 Airbrush Make a portable lung-powered airbrush with a bit of tubing and scrap materials to apply that finishing touch to your latest masterpiece. posted by msolek on Jan 10, 2008   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Topic by fungus amungus 

Can I build headphones out of drivers???

Ok... my plan is to use jackhammer noise blockers (im pretty sure we've all seen the mod) and 'install' 1 inch tang band concerns: 1. will it be too loud I am the kind of person who prefers to not have throbbing ears when I am done listening 2. how can I power the drivers. these are headphones, so I need a portable source of power. I am new to speakers, and I dont know what type of power the drivers use. So, what I am asking is what type of battery do I need to use. 3. how do I set up stereo sound w/ 2 speakers in a headphone jack. there are instructions for how to connect a single speaker to a jack, but I am going to be using 2 4. any ideas on how to make it look cooler, paint ideas (spray paint only, no airbrush), where/how to put a battery container in the system, and how to make that look good.stuff: Drivers:;=A385A0XNQBW8HY&v;=glance headset: either 1.;=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&v;=glance -or- 2. any constructive comments welcome, but, please dont just say its impossible, unless you are absolutely postive it isnt

Question by airsofter2   |  last reply

Instructables Podcast 003: Spring Cleaning

Would you like some advice on a project your working on? Perhaps you'd like a few ideas from a new source? You can comment here or email us at This week we didn't receive any questions, but that's not going to stop us. After spending several hours in the forums, I found twenty questions and let Jake pick numbers at random to see what we'd talk about. It was a lot of fun, but we prefer questions from all of you, so please don't be shy. You can listen to or download the episode below, listen over at or check it out at our homepage: download Resources: 12 - Remote Controlled LED -Field of Florescent Tubes -XBee's don't connect to the internet, they communicate with other XBee's. -An Ethernet Shield however, can do that! 04 - Automatic Electronic Cat Tail -Necomimi Brainwave Cat Ears -Shippo A cat tail that neither of us knew about when we were doing our talk. -EEG -ECG -DIY versions of EEG and ECG 18 - Gradually Brightening Alarm Clock -There's a few really good examples of this already being done. 05 - Solar Watch Winder -I found two separate videos to demonstrate how watch winders actually work. -Two homemade watch winders -A discussion on Sparkfun's forums on how to make a watch winder. 13 - Shoe Carousel -Something we didn't even think about -Perhaps you'd like to see a patent. -You could also see how other systems are made, and see if you can repurpose them for yourself. 16 - Homemade Air Brush -A couple of homemade airbrushes. -How Atomizer Nozzle's work 08 - Fireplace Soot -Creosote 17 - Ball of flame -Poofer -Flash Cotton/Nitrocellulose -Penn and Teller talking about danger in magic (link contains strong language). -Vortex Fire Ball

Topic by StumpChunkman 

Robo-Goat Lives - At least I hope he Will

OK here goes. I work at zoo and I am a self taught geek, (mainly old school). I recently volunteered for a project mainly because I'm too stupid to know that it's not possible :~) Purpose of the program/project To - Engineer, Design and Build an Animatronic Robot Goat for: a Cheetah Conservation Fund in Kenya, Africa. This device will replicate a live goat in: size; appearance; movement; sound and smell (smell supplied by others), that can withstand the sever conditions of the desert, durable, possibly solar powered and easy to transport, setup and operate. Note: Up until this point real goats have been tried but they have not been too successful. They were either too stressed or they were stolen for by locals their meat. Objective(s): To lure Cheetahs into an area and enticement them into a cage trap with a simulated live goat (Robo-Goat), to provide a safe humane and ethical capture of wild cheetahs so that recently acquired state of the art GPS/Cellular tracking collars can be placed on them to help gather information to preserve this endangered animal. Analog Radio Tracking Collars have provided the only way to gather much of the information for many different wild animals. Radio Tracking style of the past has always been a difficult and time consuming endeavor, with old style tracking, large heavy radio collars that broadcast a ”beep” continuously, must be tracked with specialized hand-held radios and yagi antennas. All this to locate an animal being studied. Many times you would have to get close enough to disturb the animal just to find out where it is and then try to track it. Obviously not good “normal behavior” data gathering. The new GPS/Cellular systems track the animal in real time and send back data coordinates on the animals location, elevation, speed and direction as it travels. This GPS information is sent via cell towers, (yes they have them in Africa), to a computer that logs and graphs the movements. The research gathered through these efforts may provide the answers to saving these endangered animals. Project design/methods: #1. Establish parameters Record video & audio movements and sounds of normal & panicked goats Research and study movements and demonstrate what mechanical requirements will be necessary to replicate the minimum needed movements - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head; Look left and right; open/close mouth} Determine movement engine {I'm not sure here} {All of the movements are really axial in nature} {At first I was thinking motors but then there are end stops, control systems, ect. To deal with} {next I'm considering solenoids for the low energy requirements and simple full scale movements, except you cant control the speed} {But now I am becoming fixated on model airplane actuators for low weight, low noise and appendage like joints and accessories} {then I ran across "pager motors" and how they are small powerful and inexpensive some how I don't know where to begin} {can you tell this is all still up in the air?} Throw distance & Speed of movement - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head = 90 degrees of arc from base of neck = 5 seconds max} { Look left and right = 90 degrees of arc from left to right with return to normal center point half way = full movement l-r = 2 seconds max i hope} {open/close mouth = 45 degrees of arc from lower jaw = 1 second max} Repetition rate & pattern {random if possible} Determine audio requirements - [DONE]. {this is easy but requires playback trigger synchronized with mouth} The Cosmetics: Determine body and outer skin requirements – [Engineering]. {aluminum wire frame mesh} {foam sculpted head for low mass} {foam wrap suit for body & legs for low mass} {tyvek skin, airbrushed or penned for low mass} {stainless steel / nylon joints for low mass} DB level of normal and panicked goats - [DONE] {I have determined audio system requirements} Determine control system requirements {clueless at this point} Determine power requirements {I'm thinking deep cell marine battery and solar panels to retain charge autonomously} {amp hour rating for battery and solar charging circuit TBD after R&D; tests} {if solar is not feasible them battery exchange schedule TBD} #2 Acquire all electronic and mechanical parts #3 Create mechanicals Fabricate lightweight frame and skeleton structure. Assemble motion joints and motion engine Assemble and test motor functions Determine estimate of MTBF for spare parts, if any #4 Create & install sound system Edit custom audio media for both normal & panicked goats Utilize 12v Solid State Audio Playback Unit # 5 Create Control System #6 R&D; Testing Test charging and power circuit Final assembly #7 Final test Any help to provide suggestions to get me started on the type of engines would be great. tia

Topic by sharpfocus