manmade amber?

I want to know how people do amber mixture to make beads. Thank you

Question by 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Why do yellow (amber) & lime green LEDs suck?

In my experience, I have dealt with many colors of LEDs, and from what it seems, red, neon green, and blue LEDs tend to be pretty good at producing light as well as surviving abuse. They also tend to require the least amount of current. However, I have found that almost all the the classic lime green and yellow LEDs are very different, and generally don't give much light output even with significant amounts of current! I have a couple of ultra bright red and blue LEDs at the moment that will glow bright enough to see them easily only a 100 microamps! That is something I simply cannot do with any of the yellow or green LEDs I've ever had! A bit of research shows that GaN and InGaN is commonly used for the blue and neon green LEDs, while GaAsP, AlGaInP, and GaP are typically used for the old-school red, amber, and lime green LEDs. I imagine brighter and more rugged yellow LEDs must exist, given their use in stop lights and road signs. Do they in fact exist? Or is our yellow LED technology still stuck in the 1980s due to little interest in them and little to no R&D;? The reason I ask is because I want to build a light source utilizing amber and blue LEDs to mimic white light, and I'm purposely trying to select colors which will give a white light w/ extremely low CRI. However I want yellow LEDs that are a closer match to blue LEDs in terms of intensity, and preferably, efficiency. I did some small scale experiments with some unknown LEDs salvaged from christmas lights, and I am impressed how poorly this light renders colors! (and how quickly my 15 ohm resistor went up in smoke driving all the yellow LEDs I had to use to equal the light from a couple of blue LEDs!) although the light hitting white paper appears purplish white, colored objects seem ghostly and take on either a deep blue, muddy grey, or yellow. Perfect for maybe a haunted house ambient lighting! Add a 50Hz capacitive driver to get some good flicker and presto, worst light quality EVER! :D

Question by -max- 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Topic Wanted

I'm searching for Orange or Amber colored Neon tube kits. Can someone help me and tell me where I can buy these?? I'm searching for more than two month right now.

Topic by Burpy 10 years ago


May I use a 9v 1A transformer instead of 9v 400ma one? Answered

I have bought a turntable which comes with a USA transformer 9v 400ma. I want to use it in Sweden so I have to buy  a European transformer. I found one that transform to 9v 1000ma. Is it going to cause any damage to the device if I use it? Thanks.

Question by terristel 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


off relay with delay on timer

Hello smart people! I need to pick your collective brain. The project that I am working on is on my car. I am replacing the front turn signals on my car with an LED strip. The led strip has three wires. One for ground, one for white LEDs, and one for the amber LEDs. If it is just directly connected to the current incandescent bulbs, the white comes on as a running light. When the turn signal comes on, the lights flash white, amber, white, amber..... (not what I want) What I want it to do is turn off the white while the amber flashes, then turn the white back on. I have a delay on relay, but that won't quite work for what I am trying to do. Isn't there a way to just throw a cap and resistor to keep the voltage on a relay to keep the white off till the amber is done flashing?

Question by DanielB93 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Paleontologist prints fossils in 3D

French palaeontologist Paul Tafforeau has been using 3D lithography to make microscopic fossils, hidden in opaque blocks of amber, vsible for detailed study.Using intense light from a synchrotron (a kind of particle accelerator), he illuminates the amber, revealing, so far, over 350 specimens of trapped insects in 2kg amber. Some of the species are new to science.3D images are built up with micro-tomography, and these digital images are used to recreate millimetre-scale insects as plastic models at a scale that allows easy handling and visual study without needing microscopes.BBC Story (included iPlayer video, which may not be viewable outside UK)

Topic by Kiteman 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Electronics

Http://www.taskled.com/techbflex.htmlI wonder if anyone can helpI want to make a bike light using CREE leds (*4) and have spotted the bflex (see here - http://www.taskled.com/techbflex.html - I was going to go for the UIB2 version) as it has battery monitoring facilities built into it. You set two voltage values v(low) and v(med). There's a connection on the board V(stat). S is the voltage from the battery.V(stat) = 0 if S is higher than v(med) => State 1V(stat) = 3.3V if S is between V(low) and V(med) => State 2V(stat) = alternates 0 and 3.3V between 0V and V(low) => State 3So I was thinking (of displaying this via 2 LEDs (green and amber))State 1 - green on, amber offState 2 - green off, amber onState 3 - alternating between green and amber.I was hoping to combine the LEDs into one bicolour LED. If anyone has any cunning plans or improvements they'd be appreciated.. whatever it end up with though it mustnt use up too much battery power.

Topic by EXM 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Any help on the green, yellow (or amber), and flashing red lights of death would be aces? Why, yes. It would indeed.

When My PS2 burnt out, I looked into it and figured it overheated. I never cleaned it so I wasn't suprised. However, that experience made me religiously clean my brand new 80gb PS3 (with backwards compatibility), which was a joint effort xmas present from my whole family and my girlfriend and her family.(organized by her of course). So this xmas I got three of the newest releases I've been wanting. After 2 weeks I finally get enough free time to play. I turn it on, complete the latest update, install the game, and when I go to play it...it turns off. I tried to turn it back on and just like the other 600 posts i read, the light turned green, quickly after that it turned yellow or amber,  the beeped a few times while turning to and flashing red indefinitely. Everytime I try again it does the same thing. Someone please help.

Question by Mister Wolf 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


I made pine sap plastic...what do I do with it? Answered

 I went out to my woods are got a huge lump of pine resin. I melted it in a steel tin, and fished off the top layer of woodchips with a nail. After that, I made what looks EXACTLY like maple syrup...so I poured it onto a parchment sheet. After it cooled, it looked like amber! I seems to shrink a microscopic bit as it cools, so it practically fell off the parchment sheet as a rock hard lens. At this point, it's an amber colored plastic lens. It's hard as a rock, and chips if you drop it. I put it in warm water...AND IT GETS AS SOFT AS PLASTICINE! It has a fantastic texture...like taffy. It's hard to resist the urge to eat it...it looks like candy! Anyway, I shaped it into all kinds of things and let it cool down (in like a second, it's hard again) When it's cooled, it has a mild tackyness to it. I made a marble out of it and put a tiny bit of lip-balm on it. Not sticky anymore! This material has OBVIOUSLY been discovered before, so does it have a name? Amber gum? tar? -Nepheron

Question by nepheron 9 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Westinghouse model SK-19H210S operation

When the TV is turned off should blue Led switch to  amber  ? or is no led  the correct operation ? When  TV is powered on it measures   116 Watts /.9 amps  on(blue led) When TV   is off measures 48 watts / .4 amps   (no led).  (shouldn't it be almost 0?) Thanks Sean

Question by seanob 7 years ago


I have 40 LEDs and have no idea what to do with them. Help? Answered

I just wnt to radioshack and I found a great deal on LEDs. 20 for 2.00 US$!!! I got 2 packages of them they are in assorted colors (red, yellow, green, and amber) and sizes (5mm & 2.5mm). what do I do with them?

Question by techturtle2 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Home automation system configuration?

I have recently purchased a used home automation system off of eBay. The whole package included the following items. 1. Amber Wireless AMB8425-M USB Stick 2. Aeon Z-Stick S2 USB Stick 3. Huawei E173u-2 Boradband USB stick 4. 3 x Zwave Socket adapters 5. 7links NAS Print/ USB Server Photos of these modules can be seen below. The seller was not aware how all these modules can be put together into a home automation system. I googled for sometime and figured out that I can setup an indoor automation solution using only the Aeon-Zwave USB and the Z-Wave socket adapters, and control them using my android phone. Can someone please help me how can i use the remaining modules and setup the automation for remote access as well ? Many thanks

Question by muhammajunaid 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


mini light?

In order to make a mini flashlight, do I need a toggle switch or will it work if hooked up correctly with out?  I ask because I hooked mine up correctly with out a toggle switch and it does not work, I have a high brightness 3mm led and it only get a short 2 second amber orage glow charge before going out.  please help. matt 

Question by hollywood4l 9 years ago


Diffusing led strip

I'm making my girlfriend's Christmas present. and part of it is using amber led strips wrapped around an oval to cast light out behind the object. What would be the best way to diffuse the leds to make a nice even light. I was thinking about embedding them in a slight groove, and then covering them with silicone caulk. Would that block too much light? what else could i put on top to diffuse them?

Topic by frdmrckr 5 years ago


anyone know a good source of bulk flickering lights?

I'm looking for random-flickering amber leds in a christmas light-format. actually, it doesn't even have to be led. i am just looking for a good bulk supply of randomly flickering lights that i can wire up into a great big bunch of fake candles, and power off of wall voltage. does anyone know where to find such a thing?

Question by cyc4015 9 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


how do you make a led's light extend?

As in, I have a flash drive that I want to steampunk and thought about putting a falseto vacuum tube on the end that the filament lights up when I plug it in. What is the most efficient way to transfer the light from the led to light up the false filament. (My led is an orngeish amber color.) Would it have to be like a fiber optic or a small tube filled with glue?

Question by Clayton H. 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


How do you get a bi-color LED (3-pin) to accept two inputs and operate without a mechanical switch or relay? Answered

Example: computer has an "I'm on" light, and an "I'm working" light. I want the LED green whenever powered on, and amber when it is being accessed?  Should be a simple transistor solution without a logic chip, I'm thinking.

Question by pensic 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


mini flashlight?

I am trying to make a mini flashlight, and it wont work.  any ideas, I have a 3mm high brightness led light, 2 3volt coin batteries and the connection wire.  Can any one explain specifically what i need, or have to do?  I'm just not getting it to work and also when the bright led lights up it only light up with an amber yellow glow for seconds before going out, upon which I have to give it a second for that to happen again...as if it needs to charge first.  What am I doing wrong? Thanks Matt 

Question by hollywood4l 9 years ago


FIND Wild Boar Hog Hunting LED SOLAR POWER Rechargeable Hunting Lights I Can Build Myself from Plans ?

Looking for a source for all the parts? The light and Lens assembly housings and the LED LIGHTS ready to install? .. or already installed? Different color LED'S - red? white? blue/ Amber? and the Control Box Parts that would include 12V Rechargeable System Battery and H/D Solar Panel with "coon-proof" cable, a 12V Dawn / Dusk Sensor Unit, and a On-Off System Switch,

Question by Big Daddy Himself 10 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Superbowl 3D glasses - congo blue? Answered

Remember the 3d glasses that everyone got for the commercial Monsters vs. Aliens during the Superbowl this year (09)? They were paper, blue colored, mnfctrd by Intel, and the "lenses" were amber and some kind of dark blue.What I was wondering was if that blue was Congo blue (LEE C181, like in Kipkay's IR goggles ible), so I could use them in making nightvision goggles. Info that might help - patent number 6687003

Question by MadBricoleur 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Electroplating chemical mishap

I figured it would be cool to quickly electroplate some stuff. Since I was lazy, I only used what I had on hand [block of zinc, vinegar, muriatic (hydrochloric) acid)]. The zinc ingot was taking too long to dissolve in the vinegar, so I added about 30 mL of hydrochloric acid. A couple hours later, I was electroplating fine. After two weeks of normal zinc chloride electroplating, the acid suddenly took on a nasty dull brown/yellow amber shade and a ton of white bubbles formed around the zinc (still in the acid). Can anyone tell me what happened?

Question by Brekenridge 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Luxeon LED Copy running voltage?

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of trouble.I'm trying to use these baby's for a project I'm doing (you may see it in the Let It glow Contest if I finish it in time) but I don't know what voltage to run them at. I know that they work best at 350mA of current.They appear to be a cheap Luxeon copy, so I guess they would run at the same voltage. But, another problem, I cant find what voltage they run at!!!The one's in paticular i'm wanting to use are the ZD-0500 - Red - hereZD-0502 - Amber - hereZD-0504 - Green - here

Topic by Da_Fudge 11 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Video: DIY Aerial Drone Beer Delivery

The world can be a harsh place, and believe it or not, there are some people out there who are more than 5 minutes away from their nearest beer! As scientists we have devoted our lives to making the world a better place, which is why we've set ourselves the challenge of building a system capable of enhancing the lives of thirsty individuals across the globe by bringing beer within their grasp! After endless minutes of researching debating the coolest way to do this, we settled on building and flying a drone to deliver the amber nectar. http://youtu.be/oHIv1sXrlf0

Topic by dalbyman 4 years ago


Use of IC Buck-Boost drivers in automotive LED lighting projects

I've been contemplating the use of high power amber or yellow LEDs in a low cost automotive warning system (think tow truck).  However, car electrical systems are not set at 12v.  They can range from 9 to 19v with spikes up to 70v.  To protect the components I would need more than just a current limiting resister.  Under those conditions they would need a buck-boost driver.  Unfortunately I'm new to ICs/power LEDa and not sure where to start.  I was hoping someone would be able to help me out with further guidance.  I Thanks! -Mike

Topic by vanmankline 8 years ago


I need help with an electrical schematic

I'm working on a project where you press a normally open button that lights an amber light (represents Master), this button then lights other buttons that are lit green (represents Slave). The accompanying schematic should be fairly clear and also repeats this question. What I want to have happen is when you press one Master, the corresponding Slaves light. Release it and the board goes dark. Then if you press one of the other buttons in the Slave category, it becomes the new Master and lights up other corresponding buttons. I'm sorry if it's confusing. The project is a flow chart of sub-subsystems that when completed link to a larger tab, then that tab links to another set of subsystems finally culminating to a final result.

Topic by javajunkie1976 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Not as cute as Womble...but he comes close!

*see here and here if you don't know your Instructables history* This is my family's new-old Cushman electric vehicle. Yes, it's the same sort of thing you see reading parking meters downtown. Yay for tiny awesome cars that don't use gas! Any ideas for fun modifications? Plans so far include having a silly little decal printed for each side with an amber light on top so we look official, and mounting some 12V air horns in there to rattle the hubcaps off the jerks that pull out in front of it (We already mounted an electric ooga horn in my mom's Xebra SD, but air horns are so much more fun). Cardboard rockets that fire off of compressed air have also been proposed. He also has no name yet...we'll be working on that...

Topic by CameronSS 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


driving a tri-color LED via separate 12v earth and 12v supply Answered

Hi Peeps, I'm currently (pun intended) building a motorbike and want to have minimum clutter on the bike. I am wanting to incorporate a tri-colour LED to indicate status for high beam lamp AND neutral indicator lamp. If both are active, it will indicate Amber(or yellow). so the problem is, high beam is easy to acheive as its a 12v supply, neutral is more complicated as this operates pysically via earth on the gear change. I need some sort of relay to drive a 12v supply, but have very limited space to do it in. do you guys have any suggestions? I'm looking at a height of 10mm max and length 20mm so transistors or something. I can solder and follow a circuit board so any suggestions what to do would be appreciated. Thanks peeps

Question by drewpi 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Dinosaur contest - results!

RARR!! I'm happy to announce the winners of the mikeasaurus Dinosaur-Contest! This contest showcases dinosaur related projects, interpreted by the maker. I wanted to see what dinosaurs meant to you. The entries included dinosaur excavation, surviving a dinosaur attack, and sandblasting a t-rex in glass. You can forget remote tropical laboratories dedicated to cloning dinosaurs based on DNA found in mosquitoes frozen in amber, we got the real dinosaur goods right here: First Prize:  Chocolate Dinosaur by LostRite   Second Prize:  Dr. Magnetic Dinosaur (Or How I Learned to Stop Searching and Love the Earbuds) by Wasagi   Third Prize:  How to Properly Excavate Dinosaur Fossils by 94   Check out all the entries, everyone did an awesome job sharing all kids of dinosaur fun! Thanks to the judges: shesparticular, SinAmos, kcls and cokefloat. The Dinosaur group remains open for all dinosaur projects, add yours today!

Topic by mikeasaurus 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Less then 2 yr old flat screen - has died....I believe...

My 17" Gateway flatscreen went blank this morning while I was at meeting. My wife claims she didn't do anything.....that it was blank when she saw it. It was not in sleep mode, nor was a screen saver on. I noticed the "power button" which is normally green (power up, with computer signal) or amber (powered up w/out signal), would not come on. I attempted to see if any of the adjustments on the side might have been bumped, no effect. I tested to make sure there was power from the surge protector (switched power outlets after a shut down) to no avail. After my 4th reboot, I subbed in my old monster sized 17" CRT tube monitor, and it works fine. Resolution is different, but it works.....but that pushed the monitor about 2 feet closer to my nose then I would like (it is about 10 inches from my face. )Did I miss anything as far as testing the monitor before replacing it? I personally think the PSU in the monitor went on the fritz, but I am open to suggestions. EDIT: The old CRT is now back ni it's storage area, and the newest LCD screen is up and running.

Topic by Goodhart 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


why does the arduino work with one servo but not two?

Well i got an arduino few days ago, just installed the sweep program on it and made it a little bit faster with the sweepingheres the code:// Sweep// by BARRAGAN #include Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo // a maximum of eight servo objects can be created int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position void setup() { myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object } void loop() { for(pos = 0; pos < 180; pos += 10) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees { // in steps of 1 degree myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' delay(20); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position } for(pos = 180; pos>=1; pos-=10) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees { myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' delay(20); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position } } right so, it works with one servo, but as soon as i add a second servo the amber light starts to flash and the servos stop, and carry on strangely... why? is it the code? if it is plz tell me whats wrong...I pasted the code so you can try it with your arduino, and i dont have to upload a vid :PThanks

Question by amando96 10 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Request: DIY LED Nightlight Outlet Cover

Hi all, I have been scouring the web and have yet to find what I am looking for.  I have seen a couple of different LED lights embedded in outlet covers and switchplates, but I need to do-it-myself because whoever cut the outlet holes in my house clearly had the shakes, and I want to convert the larger size custom covers I need to have LED lights especially for the kitchen and the bathrooms.  I also want to put them into covers that have unusual configurations, such as two outlets and a switch, etc. I have a few things I need.  (1) it cannot prevent full use of the outlet (I don't have any to spare)  (2) I need to be able to use amber lighting so as not to have the normal blue of standard white LED lighting wake me up, which should be easy enough.  (3) I would really love to be able to add them to GFCI outlets, too, but my understanding of how those work is limited. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.  I'm good with electronics right up until it involves building your own circuits, but my electrical skills pretty much top out at re-wiring a lamp, understanding how many amps it is safe to pull in a house circuit and how not to electrocute myself. I want to do this right, so it's stable long term and safe.  Again, thanks for any help, folks. -Lois

Topic by LoisBelle 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


casting a section of a large sphere in polyester resin

Hello, all.  I bought a nice pendant lamp for my house several months back from one of the local big box stores on clearance.  I only got around to putting it up recently, and when I opened it (yes, I already feel stupid for not having opened it right away to check on it...), the main glass lamp shade was completely shattered! Sadly, the lamp was on clearance because it had been discontinued, and none of the stores in Canada have any of them in stock anywhere, so getting replacement is impossible. I really like the lamp, though, as it matches several of the other lights that my wife and I have purchased, so I figured that I would try my hand at making a replacement shade!  The shade is shaped as follows: it is a section of a sphere 19.5" across (the diameter of the section, not the of the entire sphere), and 5" deep.  A little math (x^2 + y^2 = 2yr) lets me know that the radius of the sphere that this shade is a section of is 12". Here is my plan, and I would like to know if I am crazy or if anyone has a better suggestion.  I am going to try to cast a replacement shade from polyester resin, 1/4" to 3/8" thick.  I was going to make a 2-piece mould from plaster, and use my wood router suspended from a gimbal (on a 12" radius arm) to cut the outer mould.  Similarly, I would suspend a plaster blank from the gimbal over my router (on a 11 5/8" radius arm) to cut the inner mould.  Then I would simply coat the two halves with mould release and pour/pump the resin into the gap between the halves.  I'll tint the resin with some dye to get it the amber colour that I want, then lightly sand to get a smoky translucent finish. My only questions are: 1)  will I be able to get this mould apart without destroying the resin casting, and 2) will polyester resin be strong enough for this kind of casting?  Another option would be to make a wooden mould, but I thought that I might be able to chip away a plaster mould, whereas a wooden mould would be a lot harder to get off of a stuck casting! Thanks!   PS, of course, if this works, I'll post an instructable of it!

Topic by roboguy 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


convert any CRT TV or monitor into a vector (XY) monitor?

NOTE: I since found a couple links that might shed some light on the question... From HackIt: New uses for old CRT monitors http://hackaday.com/2008/02/25/hackit-new-uses-for-old-crt-monitors/ It would be very hard to do, but it is possible a CRT could be converted to a vector monitor. Perfect for playing Asteroids, perhaps under MAME. You would have to replace all the control circuits, probably with an FPGA and three ADCs (x/y/intensity). Posted at 8:58 am on Feb 25th, 2008 by MoJo Television and PC monitor experiments http://www.educypedia.be/electronics/televisionexperiments.htm old cga/vga monitor to oscilloscope ? http://www.edaboard.com/ftopic57853.html The inquiry: Maybe I am over-simplifying but I was reading one of those examples of hacking into a CRT's horizontal & vertical yoke controls to sync to music:     http://geektechnique.org/projectlab/707/how-to-make-mac-se30-audio-visualizers and had the idea that it should be possible to create a DIY XY monitor (vector display like on an oscilloscope, Vectrex, Asteroids, etc.) for an Arduino or other uC, MAME or Vectrex emulator, from any TV or CRT, once you have hacked into the electron gun's yokes. My understanding being: Raster display: the horizontal yoke (an electromagnet) sweeps the electron gun from left to right turning on the beam wherever there's a "pixel" at that line (which lights up the phosphor at that point making it visible), then it starts over at the next line (vertical yoke moves down) and draws the next line, and so on, Vector display: instead of rendering a moving image frame-by-frame using top to bottom/left to right scanning, shapes are drawn directly to the screen by positioning the horizontal & vertical yokes at the starting point, the beam turns on, and the yokes repoint to the end point, thus "drawing" the line inbetween the 2 points (I would assume this is for straight lines, not sure if circles or arcs are possible?) then the beam turns off, and the yokes get re-positioned to the next line's starting point. I'm not sure what turns the beam on & off or what kind of timing might be involved, obviously that needs to be controlled somehow. Or for color, where instead of a single white (or green, amber, etc) phosphor exists per pixel, there are multiple (red, green, blue) per pixel, and the beam hits each one at varying strengths (or for a varying length of time?) to 'mix" the primaries to the desired color? I'm not sure how that gets handled in a color vector monitor, but I would assume it's something similar to raster? So if we can hack into a CRT's X/Y yokes and move them around with an audio signal, can we control the yokes more deliberately from a microcontroller to plot specific shapes or text, hence a vector display? For those audio/TV hacks, what is the audio signal doing to the yokes that causes them to move? Whatever it is - voltage, resistance, etc - this is what our device would have to control. Possible proof of concept version: make a device to control the yokes' position etch-a-sketch style with a couple of potentiometers, and turn on the beam with a switch or button. If you see a dot of light moving across the screen then it works. I am thinking the controller might need to be "calibrated" for the individual CRT? (Maybe build some kind of calibration mode into the device.) You might dedicate a microcontroller to driving the display - it could receive text or vector shape coordinates via serial, store the shapes to draw in its own memory, and persist or refresh the image independently, freeing up processing power for whatever device it's displaying for. Another idea would be maybe add some kind of way to read light pen's coordinates, thus making the CRT an input device that can be read from the microcontroller or PC (the Vectrex had a light pen right?)  [This would be a cool mod for the Arduino composite TVout as well.] So is this idea possible without a ridiculous amount of work & parts?  I may be dead wrong about how this stuff works (I'm sure that if this was possible, someone would have done it by now?) but figured it can't hurt** to put the idea out there. I have visions of 4-player vector Arduino pong, Asteroids, Tempest, PDP-1 Spacewar!, vector NES Duck Hunt, a vector etch-a-sketch or lightpen drawing or animation program, or vector Atari Video Music. Possibly an open source color vector games system. Or just a vector display system for any Arduino or microcontroller project, made from any TV. **WARNING: maybe it CAN hurt... Evidently hacking into any CRT can be deadly, you have to discharge the CRT and capacitors properly or you can get killed. So please be careful. This definitely is NOT for kids to try at home.

Question by apple-o 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


The future of "mobile" energy...

Right now our current standard is still to use LI-Ion batteries when it comes to rechargable and power demanding devices.We all want more power for our phones, laptops or battery powered tools on the job.And we also want to be able to charge our batteries faster and faster.Back in the old days a D-Cell like lead acid battery in a flashlight was good for about 3 hours until it started to dim a bit.With up to 4 batteries inside they were not just heavy but also quite hazardous.Chargin was usually done over night and you just hoped they were not blowing up while charging.I spare you the other types that came after and that we still use as they all have their good and their bad sides.If we trust our marketing experts than quite soon we will only have electric cars on our roads and battery the size of a suitcase shall be able to run your car for hundreds of miles.The ideas of graphite based batteries or those using crystals and their forming reactions are all great and promising.Some will certainly make it to the consumer in a few years.The one thing that we are never told though is where all the energy to charge those batteries is supposed to come from.Replacing the combustion engine with electric motors is one thing but if no fossil fuel is used....Energy does not come out of thin air!Right now a lot of countries already struggle to provide a reliable power supply grid and distribution network.If you ever enjoyed a scorching hot day during a blackout caused by everyone using too much electricity you know what I mean...The population is growing as fast as the energy demand for our industries.Solar and wind are well and good but without proper storage solutions of not real use because no one can really predict how much they can produce.You know, weather and such things...If we trust our so called experts than all will come together really nice.By the time we have really powerful batteries we will have enough alternative energy supply chains up and running to keep them charged.I have a few issues with this entire concept, so let's see what other people have to about this:Imagine you have a nice and big cabin somewhere really remote and beautiful - but with no electricity for miles.Obvious solution for the modern hunter or nature lover is to invest into free energy.Free because that is how your solar, battery and inverter system would be advertised.You buy the stuff and after that all the electricity comes for free - the things pays for itself!Reality is a bit off though as you need to maintain and replace the costly batteries over time and such things.All this however totally changes for a residential home.Getting a huge solar system on your roof is no problem.Getting off the grid next to impossible.You see, once (or even before) you sign up for an electricity contract it is defined that your home is in a residential area.This brings certain limitations like the requirement to connect ot gas (if available), water, sewage and electricity.Only way to enjoy your "free" energy is by getting a good deal with your supplier.Some countries do it differently but around here it goes like this:Whatever you use still comes right off the grid.That is because your solar system really struggles to cope with load changes and providing surplus back to the grid.And since your meter is not capable ofworking properly with it either...To make it "fair" it is metered how much you use and how much you supply.Most companies here even do this on at least an hourly base - just to fair...For your bill the amounts are then adjusted.What you supplied is taken off.Sadly in most cases going negativ is not an option - if you provide more than what you use only your supplier is laughing.To make things worse what you supply is valued far lower than what you get from the grid.Often the difference is above 20%.Control....Around here quite a few people basically covered house, shed, carport and all with solar panels.This was while we had a great subsidy from the government to go solar...After now over three years most of these people still struggle to get anywhere near even for their investment.Without the grants the timeframe to break even was estimated to be around 12 years - which is about the time for when you need to replace the lot anyway and start over.Some do get nice savings on their bills though but families with kids not so much...If you have little to no chance to get your investment back before you have to replace it, then it is not really that much of a good deal after all.Imagine in town with hundreds of small houses everyone would be able to get the same money back for the electricity they provide...Pay 18 cents per kWh from the grid and get 18 cents perkWh for what you supply and once you provide more than you use you get money back.The providers won't allow this to happen as it means they not just loose some money but also they would lose control.How could they justify another price hike?How could they explain the blackouts?Why should tey pay you at all... ;)If a city with enough open and unused space would decide to go solar on a huge scale and while add also add a lot wind turbines....Someone would need the electricity provided and someone need to step in for those times where demand is above supply.Here the old triangle of power goes into full swing....You see a city or town would need also need a sub station to handle the electricity and to distribute it to the town houses, shops and so on.Funny thing is that only a "provider" can do such things.Doing it privat is usually only possible in really remote areas, like big mining outposts that just have no other option than using generators or solar/wind.And in most areas a town or city is no longer allowed to be a provider of electricty - at least not in the drirect form.Buying in bulk is no problem, having your own supply system however is not in the books.Right now most, if not all the big wind and solar farms are owned and operated by energy providers.There is billionaires everyhwere who could build a solar and wind farm the size of Texas if they really wanted but they won't do it either...Starts with the land, goes over the usage rights and won't end with activists claiming how bad it all is.Means it won't happen and if it does then the energy providers get together and claim they guy might have money but does not have the right to provide energy unless he actuall starts a corresponding company and plays by their unwritten rules.Can we still dream about it though?The dream is kept alive like the fire of hope that is only a tiny amber.If you sign up for electricity you are asked if you would like to pay bit extra so your electricity comes from alternative sources.Why is that bad, after all it is green?The initial investment might be huge for a wind farm but after that it is more or less just providing mone out of thin air.You can look the cost up for the new windfarm build near you.Same for the electricity prices in that area.And also the expected output of the entire farm.Do the math and calculate how quickly they break even....Once they do it only profit but you still pay the extra to go green.A bit like the new road that came with a toll....After 5 years the motorists paid it off but 10 years later they are still being charged while the road is disintegrating...Now add electric cars and our constantly rising consumption to the mix...We can't provide the electricity ourselfs as we don't get fully paid for it, we can go off grid either.The atom as the source of electricity is being phased out slowly as well.Finally as some might say, considering the thausands of years we have to deal with the produced waste and what aftereffects the storage might bring.Our providers will keep their grip on us for as long as they can.No government will stop them as in return they wouldn't have electricity.A cold war if you like.We never cared how much fuel our cars use until the OPEC decide to limit supplies and drive the prices up.And you can see the riches especially in Saudi Arabia.For most of the big OPEC players it really does not matter anymore whether or not they have oil or not.They make the same or even more money by other means and more modern means now.After this initial shellshock we woke up and decided that for the shopping trip of the wife a small car with just 4 cylinders will do.Overcrowded cities and roads also pushed us more into thinking small.Again it took force to go further, this time by governments slowy "going green".Emmissions, greenhouse gasses, polution, particles and corbon monoxide...Sounded all godd in the ads but it meant we could no longer afford our old car or even got banned from entering the town center with it.But a lot people still can't afford a modern car that meets the standards.Once they finally got the money and car the laws change again and they need yet again a newer car.This created a huge export and recyling market and profits for other people though.And what differenc did it all make in reality?While we were forced to improve and lose money countries like the US refused for years to even consider reducing the pollution.Countries like China and Russia even increased their pollution to impossible levels.We all remember how Bejing was literally shut down for the Olympics so the athletes have a chance to survive the games...We know how the pollution or global warming problem is misused to make money.The governments get huge payouts in the form of taxes from those cars that can't meet the specs.The dealer smiles with the increased sales of cars.And again the government smiles too as they get taxes from this as well.We know it happened before and is still happening with everything realted to fossil fuels, global warming and pollution, so why would electricity be any different?Reactors and coal fired power plants are phased out with basically nothing to replace them.Solar and wind will provide and till then we keep what we really need to keep....There is no plan for what comes after coal and the atom.There is no alternative.Batteries need electricity.And providers will always be the middleman controlling both the price and the availability.So how does this actually work you might wonder...No matter who invents or produces a new device to provide electricity - there is a very limited market for them.A farmer can't buy a full size wind generator and place it on his land...But an electricity provider can buy thausands of them....And if you go bigger than ask yourself who would need a 10 or 100MW fusion generator?Providing electricity is only a viable option if you go big and if you can sell the excess with a profit margin.Leaves only our electricity providers as customers.If you don't have to care about the buying price because it will be put down one way or the other onto your customers than it is like a credit.Only difference is that once it is paid off you start to get money back!Imagine that for your bank account ;)And if you know what you sell can have a very generous profit margin because your buyer does not care then the solar or wind farm will be quite costly to build..."We know we are not cheap, but who else can deliver you what you need?"And like our big supermarkets there will be an agreement on what the wind generator can cost.Ressources....Be it wind, be it solar or just the modern electric motor in your car - they all require stuff that is very limited on our planet.Take Neodyminum.Without it we have no wind generator or fancy motors as we wouldn't have powerful enough magnets.Vital elements and mineral required are only available in a few spots on our erth in quantities justifying mining them.I won't make this much longer than it already is, so please look up what is really needed to keep our future solow and wind projects alive.Then go and check where we can find thes things in good quantities.Once you did you might realise why the world tolerates the abuse of human rights, freedom or just self expression in other countries ;)If only China would stop today to export and sell their rare earths and prcious minerals basically our entire production worldwide would suffer quickly.Entire industries break down quickly and prices for certain things would literally explode.The US already started to re-open long abandoned mining projects as suddenly even the most costly operations become viable again.Think about this next time you fancy a world free of cars and truck using combustion engines ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 24 days ago  |  last reply 20 days ago