Say, I thought I'd ask seeing as I got a little extra money to burn from christmas, anyone got any old/unused car amps they might want to sell to moi? My current sub amp is ever increasingly scaring me and my sub sound's like it's blown a voice coil or something (although I know if it were blown it wouldn't be working as good as it is). What do you got to say Nachomama?

Can anyone tell me what happens if you take two 1.2v, 1900mAh  rechargeable batteries in parallel connected to an LED?  Does it increase the amount of time the LED will stay on?   I'm new to this.  Working with small solar charging lamps.  Thanks Patty

I wanna amp a sub but the only amp I have is a standerd amp how can I make this so audio out of the amp is really bassy part of the music  and with the plugs there 3 wire yellow white and just in there  mid the loos one ground yellow right and white left

So i have a atx pc power supply and i am going to use a pci cable to draw power from it for a led lighting system and the led light system can only take up to 12 v at 2 a, will that destroy the led light system or will it be fine? (also i cant open up the box that controls the light system to fix the blown fuse)

How do you wire amps to speakers and a headphone jack?

AmpYeah yeah, blatant plug, blah, blah, blah..:D

I am on a budget of $80 and i want to make a guitar amp with volume control, gain control, and a speaker. can someone help me do this? please?

I have a old pair of headphones and i was wondering is there any way i could power the speakers from the head phones and plug it into my guitar to use as a mini amp ?

I need to build an amp circuit for an electromagnetic signal, but I don't know much about amp cicuitry. I am goin to amplify a 7800 Hz siganl from an mp3 player through a coil. I'm making one of those cart locker things. Any ideas?

Hello all, As my question shows, I am looking for suggestions of amps I should use to drIve my speakers. There are 2 speakers RMS rated at 3.7W and 4ohm. Any suggestion is appreciated. Many thanks in advance EDIT: it would be best for the amp to use less than 9v so that it is still portable.  Please suggest 

There is power but no sound output,there are relays in side that click on iv have a prob and there is power to about half the board just not out put stage and i know that there is a speaker protection that is probable not letting power through for some unknown reason\r\nsansui au-x410r rated at 180 w   240v does any1 have a surgestions on problem or how to get hold of a service manuel

Apologies to Wario, we've hijacked your original topic...So here's a new one that (might) stay on topic... Wario's OP: Well all of you welcome to my little group, heres our first topic, Should there be an instructible about how to create an amplifier? I think so because they are always expensive to buy, to build one though would be fun as well as useful, now you tell me and everyone else your opinion.

Im looking to power a 12V 200mm Fan with a adjustable power adapter which is set to 12V DC. The thing is the fan only needs 0.16mA "Milli Amps" while the adapter gives 0.5 How can I lower this physically?Maybe open the adapter and break some things replace then etc etc. Thanks

Hi it seems i need to lower the milliamps, currently at 1500, in my adjustable adaptor in order to run a small dc motor that usually runs with a rechargeable 2.6v battery. i think the ohm rating was 006.5 but im not sure. im trying to test these motors without having to bother to charge up loads of batteries all the bloody time. but i cant test them accurately as the motors run alot faster when plugged into the mains using the adaptor. what do you think is the best solution?

I bought a cheap replica of Apple's Universal Ipod Dock, which has a line out (includes an LM4811 amp chip). My goal is to convert the headphone amp to a decent speaker amp -- similar to the Altoids Tin Speaker (https://www.instructables.com/id/Altoids-Tin-Speaker/), but without the battery or switch. I want all of the power to go through the dock's PCB, so I'm trying to avoid as much as I can an extra power source just to power the amp.This is part of a larger project that I've been working on for a while (and learning as I go)I can provide pictures later on of the dock's PCB if anyone wants to take a look.

The Ruby amp (by Runoffgroove.com) is quite simply the best 9v guitar amp on the planet. Ruby has many shades of sparkly clean all the way up to a great, natural overdrive. Because of its small size and low power consumption its perfect for building your own cigar box amp or mounting into a guitar pedal enclosure. If you have never done a diy electronics project then this is a great way to get started.  The kit comes all the parts you need  - pcb, resistors, caps, jacks, led, 9v battery snap and instruction sheet. Also I have added a couple of parts that you never seem to get included in commercial kits - a toggle switch and a dc jack (so you can run off a wallwart). Its fun, educational and at the end of the buid you have a real great sounding amp that can be used for busking, practicing in the park or for homerecording with a microphone. There are plenty of small output LM386 kits out there - only the Ruby is a real guitar amp as it has a jfet input buffer and a real gain control - oh and thers mods that can be done :) check it out at www.rubyamp.com - heaps of videos and sound samples cheers

I have a powered sub-woofer that had a blown speaker and being that I spent the money to get a better one I thought that converting the old sub woofer amp to use for my guitar would be a good idea. I already have something to practice with but making something that can be used for gigs would be great. However, I'm not an avid or experienced electronic wizard and will need the help to complete this project. Here is the info I have on the amp itself; OUTPUT POWER                          50W (4 ohms,DIN) THD                                                  10% @ 55Hz Reproduction Freq. Response   45Hz - 150Hz Phase Switch                                  0, 180 degrees Input Sensitivity (Sub In)                460 mVrms AC Power                                         120V/60Hz            Power Consumption                     70W (at 1/8 rated power) Standby Power Consumption     <6W What I do know that I need is a 1/4" mono plug jack and being that the input for the woofer is mono putting that in shouldn't be a problem. I'm mostly concerned about the frequencies that the amp will handle for playing a guitar and speaker recommendations. Plus any other opinions will be appreciated. I am expecting this to be a clean sounding amp and as it sits will only provide volume. An EQ is planned to be used after this amp is put together and then eventually an overdrive. I'm planning on connecting 2 50W speakers and wondering if I should hook them up in serial or parallel. With the help of my fellow instructabl-ians I will be able to post my 1st submission.

I heard ampere could be increased by capacitor. If true then how to do it???

I have a ac/dc adapter with an output of 24V - 400mA. I am looking at a new adapter with an output of 24V - 1A. Will this damage the charger or battery? Thank u

Ok, I need a charger for my motorolla two way radios. I have the dock, only need a DC power supply. on one of them it states "18Volts DC +/- 20%, 15.3 watts" .Lets say I get 18VDC 1amp power supply, that's 18W,it means it's an overkill? or 15V 2Amps? As I understand, usually amps don't matter, as the item draws as much as it needs, but since it is a charger.. Cheers for the teh help!

I was wondering if there is anyway to turn a set of old computer speakers (the amp inside the computer speakers more particularly) into a power amp? I know it would be a pretty pathetic power amp but I was wondering how I could do it.

Hey Guys, I have attached two schematics of two different amps. Can you tell me which is better like  better quality, louder etc,

I need help trying to find the parts to make the cheapest iPod amp. I plan on salvaging the parts from everyday electronics, and turn the amp into a belt buckle. Can anyone tell me a good place to start?

Hi, I am currently designing a stereo/mp3 amp for my education and I was wondering... Is it possible to incorporate a Valve/tube into a conventional stereo circuit? (like a standard valve amp but smaller and without the Equalization effects) I suppose the Valve/tube watts would have to match the speakers, but is this possible or would I have to use a circuit from a guitar amp that is already paired with a valve/tube amp system?! Much appreciated. -Rob

Ok, so i want to get this one audio amp to work, but i can't seem to figure out how to wire it! the first picture is a schematic, and i have NO idea what the connections are, 1, 2, and 3 the second is a picture of the amplifier chip

I tried playing guitar a while back and never kept it up after my buddy took his tube amp back that he had been lending me. Everything sounded so bad on the little one I had left. But if I had one of these I would've never stopped. Steampunk Guitar Amp

This may have been answered before, but I have searched. Throughout all my reading of High Voltage devices, I have noticed that some have high amps and some don't. For instance a Van De Graff generator creates very nice HV but little amps. Well, to be to the point, my question is: What determines a charge having a large amount of amps or not?

I bought a small audio amp, and i am trying to make a high quality boom box type device, for my mp3 player, however i am not sure if i should use a speaker that is a higher wattage than the amp is rated for, or lower.  The amp provides 15 watts per channel, for two channels, so 30 watts between the two channels.  I have a few extra 100 watt sattelite speakers, could i use them?

I want to build a tube headphone amp. Is it possible to make a smps (switch mode power suply) to power it? It would be like a mix between old and new technology!

I have an car audio amp that i need the schematics for, the model is: XM-SD22X. was wondering if anyone can help. have been able to find owners manual and such. but not much help.

Try hooking a 1200 watt sub up to a 75 watt POS amp. It lasted for like 20 seconds and something blew and it all shut off. The sub is still fine though but damn now I need a new amp :( Any ideas? I wonder if I could build myself one?

Hello!! i built a LM386 amp recently, and i am attempting to build a power supply for it...which is a challenge. so do i have to use a regulator or what? im new to voltage from the wall, i usually build them with batteries, so im new to it. do you think you could post a setup for amps like that that? thank you for your time)) 

I want to make a amplifier like this https://www.instructables.com/id/LM386-Audio-Amplifier/ but i was wondering if i can make it without the 10k pot as i dont have one.

I have a mp3 player which uses a 1.5 volt/15 amp AA battery. I would like to use rechargeable battery, but find most are 1.2 volt and 2000 millamps. Would this damage my mp3 p

I just got a fisher amp for my stereo system. I was playing music fairly loud when i saw a spark and the music stopped playing. I thought i blew my amp but it acts as if nothing happens. the lights light up with the song and all the buttons do what there supposed to but music wont play through any of the speakers. What happened and is there any way to fix this? p.s. i have a fisher integrated stereo amplifier if that helps.

Lately I've been pondering building a tube amp for my electric guitar, and I'm wondering if anyone has tips on component selection/could recommend some resources for me, since I'm not exactly an audio expert.  I'm considering something in the way of a half-stack, any ideas on what the cost would be of building that, and what kind of wattage I could get without breaking the bank?

Hello all, I am just wondering if any one knows of any circuits for a headphone guitar amp? I have done the Altoids amp from the tape deck. It works great, but sound quality isn't too great. (it works great in a pinch though ;) ) I have been looking for some on Google and what not but haven't found any thing to useful. I am fairly new to electronics, I can build the stuff but might not know how it all works. Trying to learn ;) Thanks!

Should be an easy question :-) I built my first 386 based amp, and it works great, except for input volume control. Almost every schematic has 10K pot at input (connected to pin 3 on 386). Problem is when I turn pot all the way down I hear buzzing noise, especially if source is off. Also it doesn't cut source volume noticeably so I tried using 10M Pot, and it works except buzz is now super loud. So how would I control volume? 

Following up on my other thread with soldering, I managed to get my circuit for a distortion pedal all wired up.  I've got the clean end working, and nothing at all on the distorted end, but I'm not concerned about that just yet.  On the clean end, I get a really annoying buzzing sound, like when you turn the amp on with a cable plugged in with no guitar on the other end.  What would be cause of this?  Possibly outside interference since I haven't actually put this into an enclosure yet?  This is the schematic I followed.. https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-overdrive-effect-pedal/step2/The-schematic/ and the sound from my amp is similar to this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUeRLC4z8f4 No, it's not the amp that's the problem because it works fine without the circuit.

I've got a 30W ELK-1RT speaker...it's designed for use with alarm systems etc...nothing really fancy....but we're attempting to find a way to plug it into a computer out in the factory i work at...we're having a rediculous time finding prebuilt amps to drive this thing from a PC line out port....wonder if anyone has something prebuilt or schematics and parts needed to power this speaker from a PC

Hey everyone I was hoping someone here could help me with a problem in having. I've been tinkering with some op-amp circuits with the LM386N-1 namely the one I have pictured. I first assemble them on my prototyping station and they work well using the signal generator but when I connect them to a audio line from my computer nothing comes out the speaker I have tested the cable and speaker and they both work so I am at a loss as to what's not working. I would appreciate any help you guys can give me thanks

For a future project (blue barrel infra sub woofer with ducted fan) I'm already looking for parts. I see most amplifiers and amp chips (like the TDA7294) have a frequency response usually 20 - 20,000 Hz. But I'm interested in a range from 0- ca 40 Hz. As far as I understand, the low cutoff is to protect the driver (speaker). Would it be possible to circumvent the low cutoff, or would I have to build from scratch? (I'm thinking in a 70 - 150 W RMS range).

I read that regardless of the size of a speaker connected to an MP3 or something, the sound output should remain the same. I assume this was incorrect because using large computer speakers seems to disprove this. Is this because the speakers have more surface area and generate more sound? So will using large speakers at max volume drain more energy than small earbuds at max on the same music player?

Hi- So, I made the circuit below to make sound-reactive blinky LEDs for a halloween costume (the round thing on the left is a condenser mic). I think I just got lucky that it worked, because I'm no genius when it comes to op-amp usage or design. Now I want to adapt it to control something else that needs a slightly higher voltage than the LEDs. Basically, I'd like the output to swing as high as V+ when the mic input is "loud" (a relative and possibly adjustable level). I've messed around with various resistor values as well as adding or removing resistors in places it seemed like it would help (according to the LM741 datasheet). All to no avail. Anyone out there who might know what to do? Again, I want the mic input to cause the output to go as hight as V+ (9V in this case) when it's loud, and be more or less at 0V when it's "quiet." Thanks in advance, _mykle

I recently made an amplifier based on a TDA2004 chip i salvaged from a car radio but i wanted to get more power and so i planned on making a 20w or more version. Problem is, i don't know what chip to use. Can you guys help me? Criteria: 20w or more (just give me the max wattage the chip can carry) non-SMD chip, preferably on those chips that are on a multiwatt-like package min voltage lower than 6v (around 5v or less) and higher than 6v (obviously) load the chip can carry must be 4-8 ohms About the wattage, just give me the max wattage. I've been running the tda2004 for  some time now on 6v only and it's pretty loud, just not loud enough on open areas (rave party, anyone?) Anyways, just tell me the power amps you know of that'll satisfy the criteria or at least close to it. I need answers in 4 days or so, so please tell me ASAP. Thanks in advance!

Ok Im making a speaker, I´ve got 3 speakers connected in parallel and I want to buy an amplifier from Maplin. What kind of amplifier should I buy? Speakers:3W+3W+5W=11WMy multimeter says theyre 2 Ohms but thats because theyre connected in parallel really they are4Ohm+4Ohm+8OhmSo basically could someone tell me which amplifier to buy (it doesnt matter if its a DIY kit)

I'm making an instructable about this circuit, it's a heartbeat detector, it's supposed to beep when a heartbeat is detected. Something weird is going on with the comparator, first of all, the input signal to the comparator seems to get "stuck" at the level of the comparator, like it is an invisible barrier that doesn't allows the signal to cross it easily, this seems to happen with and without the buzzer. Secondly, the comparator "rings", it doesn't displays a clean square signal when the threshold is reached, instead, at the end of the square pulse "ringing" appears. Removing the buzzer or speaker solves the ringing problem.  I tried replacing the buzzer by a 8 ohm speaker, but the problem persists. Then I tried changing the 1k resistor of the transistor by a 10k, but the problem is still the same. I don't know what could be causing this, bad design? A faulty chip? In the second picture it can be seen how the signal "bumps" an invisible barrier when reaches the comparator level, in the third the "ringing" can be seen, the fourth and last picture is how the (previous) comparator signal looks when the load is removed, the problem disappears. Thanks in advance,

I have used a 12v 7aH lead acid battery to power a small amp and speakers, yet recently the battery doesnt produce enough amps for the amplifier (3A). What could this be down to, and is there anyway to fix it? Thanks.