For smooth durable non linear man made rock: Buy Stucco? Make something else?
Question by jasoninstruct | last reply
I know it will if you do it in other clays, so is it safe to do?
Question by killimangnome | last reply
I am stripping an AC motor for the useful magnet wire. The field coils are pretty straight foreword to remove, however, I have no clue how to unwind the wire from the armature. I don't even see where the wire starts. If someone could provide me with some basic steps to get the job done, that would be great. :)
Question by iTixle | last reply
My father and I are currently restoring a metal-working lathe, however, we do not have 3 phase power to power the original 0.5HP 3 phase motor. We do, however, have a slightly smaller 0.25HP motor. At first appearance, it seemed to be a simple AC/DC brushed motor with a field and winding on the armature. There was no wiring diagram supplied with it, but in one configuration (what appeared to be the ameuture and field coils) are wired in parallel for 120V operation. This did not seem right, since the field coils will be simply shorted across the mains, but I assumed that since we are dealing with AC and inductors, this is OK. It works flawlessly, but reversing the polarity of either the fields or armature would cause the motor to sit and buzz. If started manually, it took off slowly but sounded awful. I need the motor to rotate in both directions and do not have enough materials to do this mechanically. On closer inspection after dismantling the motor, it appears there are 4 brushes, connected together in 2 pairs. They are not directly connected to anything. The 4 wires coming out seem to be just for wiring both field coils in either series of parallel for 110V and 220V operation respectfully. Perhaps even more strange, the 4 brushes are mounted on a centripetal switch, which disengage the brushes from the armature. I was able to make out on the rust that it said "revolution induction motor." So I reasoned out that after the fields are energized, it will induce an electrical current in a few of the coils on the armature, and the energy would flow to the other 2 sets of brushes, causing a different set of coils on the amature to energize and this would initially start the motor. After it gets going, the switch disconnects all the brushes and the motor operates as a simple induction motor. My father used to rebuild motors for a small company, and this is in fact one of the motors he repaired. Although he is skilled at this practice, he does not understand the operation of induction motors and can only figure out wiring by strictly following a diagram or trial and error. I am curious about what this type of motor even is, and how it works! In th meantime, I will research induction motors and how they work, and see what I can learn.
Question by -max- | last reply
What I have is a collection of armatures & rotors from various electric appliances I have dissected. Appliances, fans, blender, even teeny computer widgets. The windings would give me lots of different diameter wire to ...wrap the ends of wooden pieces...bamboo at the culms...etc. Blasted steel gets in the way. What's a way to get at the wire without destroying it? Cold chisel the steel, separate, then cut each individual layer?? Please include details or a way to contact you if I need more info. Thanks
Question by Laffingrrl | last reply
I want to do a panel with "hills" and "valleys," making indentations the size of soup bowls, maybe a bit bigger. Can I "push" or "pull" metal lath that much? I know I cant do this with hardware cloth, and chicken wire is not robust enough.
Question by hardlec | last reply
Hi all, (I had posted this question in a different forum but I think this one is the more appropriate one for such questions - thank you CAITLINSDAD for your response, included below) I'm making a series of life-sized figures for a show; they are meant to look like they have been carved from packed snow. The designer has purchased mannequins and would like me to sort out a way to make the clothing stay rigid and the final scenic paint coat to look like snow. I'm seeking your thoughts and ideas, here's what I have so far: 1) wrap blanket foam and chicken wire around the arms,legs and torso and then put the clothes on the mannequin, cover the clothes in epoxy resin or fiberglass. 2) same as above but use FGR Hydrocal 50 instead of resins. 3) expandable spray foam the body and then carve back to sculpt the clothes. 4) forget the mannequins and instead carve the whole figure out of foam blocks. 5) for the final texture coat use spray glue and flocking If you have better ideas, tricks or techniques I would love to hear them please! I'm attaching a reference image I found online - this is pretty much what I'm trying to achieve. Many thanks, Damian. ---------- FROM CAITLINSDAD: "I think you would be fine in creating any armature that would be structurally sound since it will be covered over, flocked or painted. Maybe try a drywall compound sprayer to coat the piece. You can experiment with the styrofoam texture "orange peel ceiling look " additives to give it the snowy icy look. Good luck."
Question by damianzuch
I want to use a 12/6vdc motor that will generate its own renewable power to be stored in batteries. I want to use a small motor where the outer casing will rotate and the armature will act as a fixed support to a frame. However a small outside diameter is an issue, so it should not exceed 2inches. Is this possible????? I could go another way with gears but I am trying to develop a unique propulsion method
Question by jaysashanewt | last reply
I don't want to use clay ......any ideas?
Question by belgazery | last reply
I just bought a used dewalt dw433 and it arrived DOA. It is the one with the sanding frame and don't want to have to send it back because I got it for a great price (now I know why). The motor runs (that is to say the armature spins), but the belt and the drive pulley does not. The motor gets electricity so the brushes and armature should be fine. But could this be a drive belt or a "field" problem? I am very mechanically inclined but have never dealt with this type of diagnosis/repair. I am sure I could fix it myself if I just found out what needs replacing. Please help!
Question by sbinig | last reply
So... I basically broke open a RC toy car..... And I'd really appreciate if u can tell me a lil about the components that you can recognize..... Some more info: The four LEDs go into the translucent wheels RF module: 27.145 MHz The DC motor has a magnetic case and is attracted to the armature on the axel of the back wheel.
Question by afshaanmaz | last reply
Can I reduce my home electricity bill by about 50% by using the following method :- Use an inverter to power an electric motor, the shaft of the electric motor rotates the armature of a AC generator with high number coils and powerful neodymium magnets. The generator recharges the inverter.
Question by Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves | last reply
Anybody tried machining strong magnets into the armature of say 10 or 20 hp 3 phase motor. do not know the output if any but if so then running through a transformer that might have output of 220 that is actually useable for living, working in a garage. i understand it would have to be overdriven possibly by multiple blades for torque to reach the ness speed. just curious if you think it might work or not be worth the effort. this is a new field for me.
Question by builditbigger | last reply
I have an old Bosch electric drill (CSB 420E) which has started behaving strangely: Its speed has dropped greatly, and it sparks so much I could turn the lights off and still see what I'm doing. I suspect a fault in the armature or field coil, but they both look OK. Brushes seem ok as well. Any ideas? I'm reluctant to junk it because I am too mean to buy a new one.
Topic by Dodd | last reply
Hi, I want to do a electromagnetic device, that must be like a cilinder, because I will put a "armature" to protect that. I need 7500 Gauss, or near this. I dont know how materials is necessary and the wire, spins, turns. If I do anything wrong is possible that device will be very hot and dangerous. This device can not be very big (can be 20cm and diameter like a 2,3cm). Voltage is not a problem. Tks.
Question by sidjunior00 | last reply
I have a cow that I made out of Plasticine for a stop animation project. The cow itself is finished, and I just realized that I have no tie-downs, and I don't know how I would even begin to put them in/on. This is my first armature, so I am using that as my excuse for this oversight. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Question by NOODLE! | last reply
I have a set of MRI scans of my knee. I make lamps and want to make a lamp shade out of these scans. A friend says, no - they will burst into flames. Another pal says, yes - go for it, get an old lampshade from Salvation Army, remove the cloth and clip the MRI scans to the wire armature. Oh, and if I make one, to be sure to use a low watt bulb. I think the scans are cool. But if they burst into flames, that would be bad. So - any idea how this could safely be done? Thanks.
Topic by mandodeb | last reply
I have a wonderful idea for putting a grim reaper on a horse, and have him bob up and down like he's riding it. The only thing I'm confused on is what motor do I need to use to make him bob. He weighs about 65 lbs (steel armature). I don't understand torque etc. and I'm not programming anything, just plugging him into a basic power supply. Any ideas would be wonderful.
Question by lpfan3217 | last reply
Hi With the goal of using the DC treadmill style motor that i have in a project (or two), i have baught a SCR speed control board. The circuitry of the control board has outputs for the armature and field coil (labeled "excitation"). But the motor that i have is a permanent magnet type (2 wires going in / out - red and black - nice and simple). So i don't need the 'excitation' output. My question is whether the control board needs this to be used? Am i going to fry my brand new controller if i only draw current through the armature output? I could, for instance, put a resistive load accross this output to make it use just less than the output it's rated for. Here's more info on the parts in question: The speed controller is like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-0-220V-Continuous-Adjustable-Dc-Motor-Speed-Regulator-Control-Board-1000W-/251600102759?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item3a9488e567 or this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Adjuster1000W-AC110V-220V-Input-2A-3A-4A-5A-output-/321526825620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item4adc7e0294 The motor is either of the models on this page (i actually have one of each): http://www.ectrade.com/Auction/FreeSample/1931851586/Electric_treadmill_motor_DC-specific.html Thanks in advance. Peas
Question by balisticsquirel | last reply
Greetings, We have a school project and we must a build a DC generator, and I want it to be D.I.Y., but I have a problem, I don't know if the generator I am planning to build can make enough power to make small loads work. My armature is made of several laminated "I" core with winding of AWG#24and1/2, that's my plan, but how many turns shall I wind? is the laminated Iron core enough or should I use iron core instead?, do I need a strong magnet? Thanks in advance!
Question by Mechron | last reply
Have a Shimano front wheel with hub dynamo. It generates 6 V DC, voltage regulated. I want to convert some ready to use LED gadgets for illuminating the bike and the road during these dark days. Many of them use 3 button cells or AA(A) batteries. A small circuit board in the head light (have a huge motorcycle front armature ready) must convert the voltage. When I look for a 'buck puck', it seems that this lowering step is too small for what's available. true or not???
Question by BobS | last reply
Is it safe to bake polymer clay on plastic straws? I'd like to try making a ball-jointed doll, and one tutorial uses plastic straws as a form of armature for which the polymer is wrapped around to create a hollow core to sculpt on. The straws seemed in-tact, but is it safe? I know certain plastics let off toxic fumes when exposed to certain temperatures, which is why I ask. I would think it would be fine, since it wouldn't be much "foreign plastic" (AKA not the clay) but I'd rather ask and be sure, than find out the hard way. Thanks for any help!
Question by Ayedeas | last reply
I have a 12V 5000RPM 15A PMDC motor and even at its top speed I can stop it by hand which is just not right. I took the armature out and here is what I found: Its a 2pole with 16 winding slots, each winding is quite large but theirs only 3 wraps! I know if you half the wire surface area and double the wraps you get half the RPM. Currently the rotor has 3 wraps per coil of 18guage wire with easily enough room for 10x that. What wire size and how many wraps should I re-wind this motor to get maximum torque at 2000RPM?
Question by iceblu3710 | last reply
Hello All: I found this antique brass lamp and would like to restore it. I'm looking for information on how to clean it up and remove the tarnish. There's the chemical way (for instance, Brasso or others) or the "natural" way (I saw a vinegar, salt, flour paste). Has anyone had any experience with this that they can share? Also, I'm looking at what the final restoration will be. I have 3 ideas: 1. Restore it to it's brassy, original self with a torchiere globe (as in the last picture), 2. Restore it to original but modify it with an RGB LED nightlight in the base (next-to-last picture), 3. Clean it up but give it a steampunkish look by painting it a copper color, adding Edison bulbs to the 3 armatures, and maybe some etching on the globe. Any other ideas? Thanks, Kevin
Topic by nivsrom | last reply
I was looking around Deviantart where I searched "custom action figures" to see what new was being posted in that area. I came across a user who had pictures of this flesh-tone and gray colored action figure that lacked details. When I read the description, I found out it was a new type of action figure called the Blanx Customizable Action Figure, which would allow people to come up with their own designs. I'm not sure if anyone else has heard of it, but I figured I'd post the link here, as it may be useful to not just action figure modders, but for artists as well (in fact, according to the site, the Blanx Customizable Action Figure can be used as a sculpting armature, to which a couple of members in the user gallery have used this figure for). http://www.gonativetoys.com/index.html
Topic by CB2001
I built a TV from an old laptop screen and one of those LCD control boards you can get from eBay but I’m curious how to go about adding a battery to it to make it portable. So, my question is, how do I go about battery safety and how do I control charging and isolation? For example, if I plug the TV in because the battery is dead, do I just have a charging board between the input and battery and let the charging board take care of the rest? And the same question is applied to when the battery is at peak charge but I don’t want to use the battery just simply plugged in. The battery is a 12v 2A lipo and I don’t want any fires. I’ve thought about adding a switch to simplify things but that’s inconvenient and armature I could make a circuit that would cut off the flow when the battery is at peak I suppose but I’m not sure of the schematics or if that is the right approach. I’m good at building just not figuring this stuff out….
Question by aniox | last reply
I am making a super-discreet earpiece/IEM that is intended for any use where you feel bored, where you are not supposed to use electronic devices. Meetings, lectures, classrooms, etc. Basically, it's a 3.5mm jack wired to a Balanced Armature driver. Essentially, I remove the big, thick and bulky housings of earpieces and leaving the smaller drivers in place. I've been using thin copper cables in the earpieces I buy. They work, but are still visible. I found that optical cables are near invisible, glass-like. I intend to wire them into my earpieces. So, do I require lots of circuits? I can do those, if they don't poke a black hole in my wallet. No more than USD100, if entirely possible. I just want to know how to change electricity into light and back again, and allow for audio transfer from MP3 player to earpiece drivers.
Topic by chua_erei | last reply
A neighbor asked me to have a look at her B&D electric mulching mower (MM1800 Type 1) after it stopped working. When I pulled the control switch, the blade didn't turn, but there was a buzzing sound and kind of a burned plastic smell. I also found that it was very hard to turn the blade by hand. At home, after a lot of trouble I was able to remove the 6 screws holding down the big plastic cover. (You should see how much grass was under there.) I can now see the outside of the motor, but how do I figure out which parts need to be replaced? The owner's manual has a parts list. I assume that some parts (like the magnet ring and armature) are OK, and that the problem is with something like the brush spring/terminal/brush insert or rectifier. How do I find out? (I'm hoping it won't be that hard to replace the parts of the motor.) Thx.
Question by bkbkbkbk | last reply
I am currently trying to find a solution to a year and a half long problem I've been working at, and was hoping the community could help me out. I ma trying to create miniature armatures that will always have the right proportions by etching the 'skeleton' out of thin brass (I believe it's somewhere around .02 inches thick). I've tried toner transfer and ferric chloride etching, but I am not getting steady results with the toner transfer. Since this isn't a circuit board, are there any other techniques I can use to cut through the metal quickly? If it's something along the lines of a CnC machine, as long as I can make it to cut down on the costs, I'm open to the idea. Just to give you an idea of what I'm trying now, at the moment I'm making stencils that I will spray acrylic or spray paint through onto the metal to allow for the same design every time. Acrylic and spray paint are also resistant to ferric chloride. Thanks
Question by ajpaulette | last reply
Hi I am working on an Image 15.0 R Treadmill. As soon as you start it , it shuts down as if the circuit has been interrupted. I unhooked the drive belt so that there was no resistance to it and it does the same still. The speed sensor seems to be working okay so I pulled the controller (board) and tried re-flowing it. as I flip the treadmills switch on not starting the treadmill-just turning the power on the motor runs for about 3 seconds. Because the cover is off while I am working on it I can see that during that 3 second window the motor has a spark (bolt) from one of the bolts to the post (I think stater) the one that if the motor were disassembled the part spinning inside the copper wind. I don't remember what it's called (armature?) Anyway this arching does not re-occur unless I completely unhook the board once more and re-assemble. After re-flow the motor still just begins to load (start) bumps about 1/2 a rotation and stops. I read an article here that Iceng had commented about bringing his P.M. D.C. Motor model # c335483304 back to life......it is the exact motor....my girlfriend has been on me about fixing her treadmill so here I am. Anything would be of great interest and help to me. Thanks a million in advance. Troy
Topic by ill build u one | last reply
I searched the archived threads and found quite a bit alreadydiscussed here about making very simple and small electric motors fromscratch. What I want to do is to make a fairly large and powerful one(say, somewhere around the size of a coffee can). This is for asculpture project, and the motor will be driving a kinetic mechanism.I'm pretty handy, have a extensive range of tools and am comfortableworking with high voltage. What I am not, however, is knowledgeableabout designing or making electric motors; hence my questions.I understand that I'll need to wind armatures and so forth, but Idon't know what the advantages/disadvantages would be of making a DCversus an AC motor (either power could be supplied), nor do I reallyunderstand the differences between the various types of those two. Themotor needs to be able to start by itself under load (as opposed tosome homemade electric motors that seem to need a nudge to get going).Simplicity, low maintenance and ease of construction would be a plus.I had thought of making a homopolar motor such as they have at theExploratorium (http://www.exploratorium.edu/cmp/exnet/exhibits/group5/daisy/index.html) but it seems that homopolar motors like this cause considerable wearto the part that acts as a brush, which will work against my goal oflow maintenance. Unless...perhaps I could use a rolling conductor (like a precision bearing) as a brush? Does that make any sense?Thanks for any advice!
Topic by Bricology | last reply
A woman asked me to look at her sewing machine. The motor was dead. A new foot control did nothing. A dealer seemed disinterested in looking at it for repairs, but wanted to sell her a new machine for $700+. Attached is a photo of the commutator from her machine's motor after I cleaned it up enough to run again. After 15 years of use there was so much oxidation and contamination from brushes arcing that an Ohmmeter showed infinite resistance (open circuit) across the commutator, unless readings were taken on the brighter copper colored portions of the commutator. (The brushes are still good.) Then I got reasonable readings, indicating there was actually an unbroken circuit across the armature coils. Removing shrouds and getting to the motor was the most difficult part. Then I turned the motor by hand while I held 500 grit sandpaper on the commutator until it was clean and bright. The motor runs like new again. The owner is very happy. (I made this fix as a favor, not to gain income.)I had expected something like I found in a Dremel tool that quit working. With an Ohmmeter I found a break in the circuit between the field coil and a terminal pin. (I was able to bridge the broken connection and the Dremel workes again.) Another sewing machine did not run, and the problem was found to be a bad electronic circuit board no longer available. That machine had to be replaced.But, sometimes somethng so simple as a very dirty commutator is the only problem and is easily cleaned so the machine works perfectly again.
Topic by Phil B | last reply
Using a transistor to boost the output from a quartz clock to drive a larger motor in steps. Is the idea sound what would I need? Having read a couple of instructables on equitorial drives, I found myself wondering why you couldn't just use a quartz clock movement to drive one? They don't produce much torque is the answer to that one. Why not? I took one appart to find out. The gear chain is very flimsy moulded polyethylene, or maybe nylon. the power comes from a tiny armature that makes 1 turn a second in 2 pulses the magnetic pulses are provided by a little cuircit board with the quartz ossilator on it. Here endeth my actual knowledge. My knowledge of electronics is minimal give me a good set of instructions and I can build it (unless its a joule thief but thats a different matter) but don't ask me how it works. My limited understanding of a transistor is if you put a small current or voltage across 2 pins you can get a bigger current or voltage to flow across one of them and the third, something like a relay. I was thinking if I took the out put from the quartz cuircuit that provides the magnetic pulses and used it to trigger a transistor to pulse a higher voltage and current through a small 3 pole motor kicking it around 1 pole per pulse. The motor I have a salvaged and rebuilt in an earlier instructable runs on 3V and draws 0.2A when not under load. the largest motor I have to hand is a big 7 pole one designed to power model planes or cars draws up to 15A on 7.2V the timer cuircuit for that one needed 3 Mosfet's in parralle so I'm guessing thats not possible.
Topic by Stan1y
Calling all Engineers, Designers, Sculptors, Builders, Videographers, Architects, Artists and Makers of all descriptions and disciplinesSUMMER CAMP SEEKS PROPOSALS FOR AMBITIOUS COLLABORATIVE PROJECTSBeam Camp requests project ideas for 2009 and future summers.You supply the plan and vision. We'll supply 100+ energetic campers and staff and 700+ acres of forest, mountain and lakes as studio, canvas and workshop. Submit your proposal to be Beam's 2009 Project Master. THE PROJECTEach summer Beam commissions a Project Master to design a unique large-scale collaborative endeavor that campers produce and enjoy. The Project can range from the conceptual to the structural. We are looking for big ideas that will challenge and excite our campers and staff. Our Project Management Team will work with the Master to "translate" the Master's project blueprint into the camp context.THE CAMPBeam Camp is a 4-week summer program (July 18-August 16) for boys and girls aged 7-17 in Strafford, New Hampshire. Beam Campers cultivate hands-on skills while exploring innovative thinking, design and the creative process. They transform ideas into artifacts and personal achievement into community success. Teams of campers work on different aspects of the Project each morning. In the afternoons, they participate in Domains, mini-courses in arts, athletics, science and nature studies.Project CriteriaMake it big.Don't limit yourself to "camp-y" themes.Construction can be a central component, but doesn't have to be.Past Projects:2005 The Nexus Canopy: a raised, 42' x 36' grid of wood and fabrics that the campers transformed from shelter to maze to movie theater to art installation to banquet space. Project Master: Fabian Jabro/Standard Architects2006 The Beam Fleet: seven wooden vehicles, designed, and built by the campers, equal parts kinetic sculptures, simple machines and rolling canvases. Project Masters: Steve Gerberich & Nathaniel Leib2007 The Beam Micro/Macro Domes: five geodesic domes based on the forms and structures of virus proteins, that became shelters, sculptures, playspaces and activity centers. Project Master: Caitlin Berrigan2008 Jungletopia: three tree-houses ring a 16-foot armature to form a play/contemplation space that bridges (metaphorically and physically) Beamers' imagination and craft with the forest environment. Project Masters: Jan Drojarski & Jon BockselFAQsHOW DO I SUBMIT A PROPOSAL?Go to http://www.beamcamp.com/project-proposal/ to fill out the Project Proposal form or send an email to email@example.com.WHAT'S THE PROJECT BUDGET?We generally spend $10,000 on Project-specific materials including any necessary new tools/machines.WHAT ARE THE MASTER'S TIME REQUIREMENTS?Upon selection of a Project, Masters have until May 1st to create a blueprint or working plan for the project. We ask that the Master be available for at least two pre-camp planning meetings and join us for at least three days during the camp session.DO I GET PAID?Project Masters receive a $2,500 stipend plus reimbursement of travel costs. Proposals due: March 1, 2009.For more info on Beam: http://www.beamcamp.comFor further inquiries contact: Brian Cohen: firstname.lastname@example.org
Topic by Brian Cohen | last reply
Here my instructableMy Animatronic Mod ProjectIn 2003 I made a casemod MONSTERMOD ( picture 1), Just a creature sculpture tearing out of a PC case.And It Didnt Move . So , I want the next MONSTERMOD to MOVE.Maybe to tell me that I have email.... Picture people's PCs having Heads .There favorite movie star or rock star maybe a animal. Maybe like Hal from 2001Space Odyssey .But, My animatronic Mod Has no A.I. But maybe one day. Im programmingthe 16 servo movements into the PC and press the play to play the movements a lipsync routine.Well, For Over 2 years now I have been working My Animatronic Mod.My Animatronic Mod is a floating creature head over a desktop case.( picture 2 IMG_1383.jpg)It controlled my a 2 Mini SSC II (http://www.seetron.com) this allow the computer to control 16 RC servos.16 RC servos = 16 Movements .I made the teeth out of dental acrylic, The samething denture are made of.Teeth and fangs are made 1st in tooth color dental acrylic and shaped.Then are placed in dental wax .,the mold is a silicone putty is place on the teeth allow to setup overnight.To demold the wax is melted away with boiling water leaving the teeth in the silicone putty sockets.This is called the lost wax process.( picture 3,4,)After I made the eyes out of dental acrylic ,Which is a molded ping pong ball is 40 mm .In half 20 mm sandwhich in between the 2 halves is a metal small metal ball 10mm give me a ball joint and socket.The iris is a painted metal washer. The veins are silk yarn And is cover with clear dental acrylic .The white of the eyes was changed to black color ,To give more of a alien look. ( picture 6,7)I molding the finished eyes alginate and casting them in ultracal 30, ( picture 8) Ultracal 30 is the hardest plaster made.And place them in the sculpture.This will be for Proper registration for the eyes in the skull.( picture 9 )I had to sculpt face in Roma Plastilina Clay ( picture 10)and mold it in silicone( picture 11a,11b, 11 ) This molding process called a matrix mold . A layer of water clay cover theentire clay sculpture and Ultracal 30 is place on top of the water clay .After setup ,Its demolded and water clay removed .This water clay has made a space for the silicone.Matrix molda thin layer of water clay is place ( picture 12 ) and made the core A .This gave me the thickest for the skin .Molded core A in silicone and a thin layer of water clay is place in this mold also this made core B.And this gave the thickest of the Skull. Now I have 2 molds.( picture 13,14 )Mold 1 is the Skin moldMold 2 is the skull moldI casted foam rubber in mold 1 ( picture 15,)http://www.monstermakers.com/foam.htmlTo make the foam rubber skin337 gms. base67 grams foaming agent33 grams curing agent15 flow enhancer24 grams gelling agent4 grams ammoniaThe room temp73 degrees 40%Using a Sunbeam MixMaster Mixer1. Speed #1 - 1 minute (to blend all components)2. Speed #10 - 3 minutes : blend all3. Speed #3 - 4 minutes : refine4. Speed #1 - 30 seconds :refine5. Speed #1 - 30 seconds : ADD GELLING AGENT ( picture 16 )6. Speed #1 - 30 seconds : Backturn the bowlFoam rubber can be tricky.Mold 1 was place in a Hot box oven for 11 hours at 125 degrees .= A very soft and flexable skin ( picture 15,16 )Hot box oven 3'x 3'x 3 " plywood box with foil insulation with a single burner. This must be watched.( picture 17,18,19)I casted urethane Plastic from smoothon.com in mold 2.This gave me the Skull,The skull was trimed and dental acrylic teeth and eyes were place inside the skull .The mechanics were place using R/C servos.The skin was painted with PAX ( is a flexible paint). The skin was glue on rubber cement to the skull .And the hair was glued rubber cement also and placed.Hair is from National Fiber Technology ,Hair 1 was Blended Black and Brown modacrylic with White and Brown Mohair and Natural Goat hair.And hair 2 Black with gray texturized modacrylic with Yak and Horse hair.The PCMy motherboard (MSI KT6) and AMD 2500xp video card (MSI 6600)The case is LIAN LI PC-V800B .To make the lip sync move ,I used VSA , Visual Show Automation , http://www.brookshiresoftware.comThis aloud me to make a lip sync animation routine. Synchronize with graphical audio MP3 file.Not only that My Animatronic Mod looks Wicked ,It Talks Back.(Picture 1st floor) ( Picture 2nd floor)I designed the animatronic so I could repair it if needed, And the support pipe is like a swing arm so I can work on the PC too. By removing the back of the skull. Inside there are 2 floors the bottom floor has 6 servos :1 Head Up + Down2 Eyes Up + Down and left + right2 Eyelids1 Jaw2nd floor 7 servos3 right,left and center Brows1 Nose3 upper lip wireAnd also 2 servos are in the Jaw for lower lip wireand 1 left + right servo gimbal= 16 servosWhen uncovered ,Here is 32 feet of servo cable.(picture32 feet )The only thing connecting to the PC and the Animatronic is a modular cable (Lookslike a phone cable). Which is plug into a modular adapter that plug into the PC's serial port . The end of the modular cable plug in Mini SSCII Serial Servo Controller.you would be surprise how many people are into making monsters. Ive beenmaking monsters , masks and makeup fx for 30 years now.I put my 2 hobbies that Ienjoy together.Computers and making monsters.Im a dental lab tech. for 20 years now .I make dentures for a living.Thank You so muchGary WillettTo see Video Demos http://www.youtube.com/willettfxhttp://www.servocity.com..................For Servoshttp://www.nftech.com/ ...................For Hairhttp://www.smooth-on.com/ ............ Silicone,Urethane PlasticbooksTechniques of Three-Dimensional Makeup by Lee Baygan Special Make-Up Effects (Paperback)by Vincent Kehoe Men, Makeup & Monsters: Hollywood's Masters of Illusion and FX (Paperback)by Anthony TimponeStop-Motion Puppet Sculpting: A Manual of Foam Injection, Build-Up and Finishing Techniques (Paperback)by Tom Brierton Stop-Motion Armature Machining: A Construction Manual (Paperback)by Tom Brierton MagazineCinefex
Topic by willettfx | last reply
When someone starts talking about a so called magnetmotor than most people judge right away.Laws of physics, perpetuum mobile is impossible, magnets are static....We all know the limitations nature puts on us... That however did not stop quite a few people since the 1950's to build working magnet motors. Or, to be precise: To make the claim, show them and then somehow disappear. A few though seem to have survived and even claim to make good business. Securely closed machine, stellite tracking and 24/7 online monitoring. Either just a bad and long running hoax or a real attempt to keep a secret secret. Even the somewhat famous Yildiz motor showed off around the world only to disappear.Some like them, some don't. Either way all this sounds like the perfect conspirary theory LOL So lets take a look on what is fake and what might be real but missing some vital clues. You can find several good Youtube channels created by people trying to build a working magnet motor. Some of them have no problems to admit failure and still keep trying and updating their projects. Did long enough and you see two outcomes. The first is giving up or "realising" that it will never work. The second often seems like a user is getting some relly good results and is really close to keep the magnetmotor running. Both disappear without and updates or traces. Now of course this is just confirmation that it will never work, but then again: What if it did already quite a few times? Even Tesla had patents for a magnetmotor and so far none of his patents were a hoax. Although none of his patents allow to actually build a working devices without some additional info and knowledge. And that is the key that I am trying to get: The lost knowledge.How can a magnetmotor never work? That one is quite simple from the start. If a linear model won't work no matter where you start then a rotary version will fail as well. And if a linear version works, it has to do so far at least 5 segments and with preferably increasing or at least constant speed. Having said that and assuming you know a little bit about magnetism: Ever wondered about shapes of magnets?? The common types are block, round like a bar and those disk like ones, some even with holes. A less well known version is the ring magnet. You can look them up as well as their corresponding magnetic field geometry - or what is assumed to be the right geometry. To give you a clue: All those floating spinning toys use a ring magnet in the base and onother one in the spinner. In the center is a dead zone for the magnetic field that is far lower than further out on the ring. And the strnger outer fields also reach further - giving the entire spinner a bowl like area to float on, the spinning just stabilises it like a gyroscope. A similar flat disk magnet wouldn't have this indentation in the field but rather a dome like sphere. The ring just kicks a dint into this sphere if you don't mind the simpification. Similar changes in the field structure happen when you combine two or more magnets. One example we all know is stacking identical smaller magnets. And often we are suprised how much stronger two thin disk magnets are compared to a single. Distance however sets a certain limit. And take those hook magnets... Just a small ring magnet in a metal pot with core. Remove the magnet and just by itself it is far weaker. Why? Quite simple.... The same way a transformer core directs the magnetic flow, the metal part of the hook magnet provides a shortcut for the magnetic field - and in return all is much stronger ;) Now you have some more clues, but still there are tons of options for failure... The most common is the sticking effect. No matter how well you planned and designed in most cases you linear or rotary prototype will stall sooner or later. Even if started manually at high speeds some seem to run very long but once they slow down and stop it is obvious they always stop where the magnetic field won't allow the binding effect to be overcome.Wouldn't dare to say that I have a working magnetmotor, but I might have some clues you want to try if you decide to give it a try yourself. So how COULD a magnetmotor actually work? Like in the Perendiv examples all over the web, you could aloow a moving responder to the rotor. Like a piston the responder will be lifted in areas it would otherwise limit or reduce the speed of the system. Well designed only a few mm would b required but it also means wasted energy to move the responder. Then there is the nice way of modifying fields by adding magnets in different angles and polarities. Lets say towards the end of your stages on the linear model it is hard to overcome the binding effect from the end of the previous stage. The perendiv model would now somehow change the distances. But you can also add magnets to lower the binding effect ;) Like a ring or hook magnet you can shape the field and offer a stronger repulsin field or a lower binding force. Last but certainly not least is the option of adding magnetic metals like iron or somehow weirder ones like bismuth. So, do we have any examples of something very common utilising any of this? We sure do :) Take a speaker apart and you end with the cage, the membrane, the actual work coil and the magnet. We don't need anything but the magnet so take a good and very close look. What in the audio world is called a shield to prevent the magnet from messing with things close by is exactly the same as on a hook magnet ;) Only difference is the tiny gap for the coil. The magnetic field is directed into two paths, one by the metal core, the other by the inner enclosure of the magnet or the magnet itself. The coil operates in the area of maximum flux.Last hints... If you take two identical and strong magnets with north or south facing up then it is quite hard to push them very close together. But check what happens if you try the same wen both soth poles (or both north poles) are placed on a magnetic surface - if in doubt your standard fridge door. Suddenly you can move much closer together with the same amout of force (not considering the added friction!). And similar story for opposing configurations. Where in free air or on a table the magnets would just jump together, on a metal plated you can move them much, much closer before this happens. Copper pipe and magnet fun :) Ideally you would have a straight copper pipe and a cylindrical magnet that has a loose fit in the pipe. Aluminium pipe work too or even a roll of aluminium foil if you have nothing else. A magnet in the pipe will travel very slow down the pipe, friction is not an issue here. So what is slowing it down? The magnet creates a field in the pipe and through that the pipe generates electicity. And funny enough this electricity creates an opposing magnetic field in the pipe - the magnet slows down. Even if you glue it onto a wooden stick it won't rush through it. Trying to push it by hand and you feel the created resistance. The faster you push, the harder it is to push! If you made it all the way down here with the reading then I have to assume you fit into one of three of my categories. a) You are a total sceptic and just read it for your amusement. If so, then please don't post a reply with usual negative feedback, instead see it as the same fun you had reading it ;) b) You are at least curious and like to play with magnets. In this case take the above as inspiration to explore more ways to have fun with your magnets! c) You are more or less frustated because you wasted a lot of time and some money to build a magnet motor that just won't work. A and B might go on and enjoy the fun, C however might want to read very attentive now ;) If you take some indicator sheet for magnetic fields, like these funny green ones, and play with moving magnets then you see a very interesting effect on the "screen". The otherwise static field lines change chape and sometimes even seem to disappear or shrink. With a small rotor assembly it almost looks like flashes when the magnets move past each other. This effect is often totally neglected and to be honest I overlooked it for a long time as well. Being able to see how the magnetic field changes gives the thing an whole new dimension so to speak. Creating a magnet with a complex shape is difficult to say the least. Only ferrite or ceramic ones can be used and you would cut of machine them according to your desired shape and with regards to the orginal center of the magnetic field. So most people revert to the classic way of shaping by adding magnets of various types, sizes and amounts. Modern neodymium magnets make this trial and error process easier as there are many sizes and strengths available. Add a detector shield of suitable size and you have hours of fun time ahead of you. But doing so in any rotary assembly is next to impossible. So what did Yildiz differently and what was missed so many times? Yildiz took it a step further and not only provided "shunts" to create very strong magnetic field from the generated electricity but also a second rotor. Since we all start small lets focus on the basics first. Remember the hook magnet and speaker or the copper pipe? Some examples for shape shifting your otherwise static magnetic fields: 1. A magnetic metal "connection" from one (low in the armature) pole to an opposing (high in the amature) pole with cause the field from the "high" pole to "bend" towards the connected magnet. 2. A magnet with an orientation of 90° to the last magnet is the sequence will severely influence the field of this last magnet! This goes for either orientations! 3. Adding a non-magnetic "shield" around a magnet, like a piece of copper pipe, will not affect the static field of the magnet. However it will severely alter the field of the enclosed magnet when another magnet passes it! It will also affect the overal field during the passing as the moving magnet will also induce a field in the copper by affecting the field of the enclosed magnet! Thickness and lenght of the shield influence the strength of these effects. 4. In a simple perendiv motor design the bar that creates the attraction for the spinning part is a magnet too. Either a long bar type or two small ones with an iron or nickel rod between them. There is no need for a piston or something that drives the bar up or out of the way ;) Just use the right magnet at the right spot on your rotor to repell the bar ;) Mount the ar with suitable springs and you suddenly can have multiple stages on your rotor instead of just the usual one! Don't forget the moving magnet on the opposing side of the segment in question though as otherwise you still will get stuck. (Hint: You can place a small but powerful magnet in the center of the opposing bar ;) Just make sure you limit the springs movement so the bar won't be pulled closer)Ok, hold on now! Does a magnet motor actually work or not? I can only give hints and say the laws of physics as we know them apply to magnetmotors the same way as everything else. Unlimeted motion without supplying energy is not possible. Limited motion with adding or using energy however is still possible and real. The same is true for being able to machine, 3D print or otherwise manufacture at very tight tolerence and accuracy levels. This includes bearings or bearing systems with very little friction losses. Just check these floting and rotating magnet toys that look like a spindle. Only a tiny needle like pin makes contact with a glass surface - next to no friction loss. A proper and supposedly working magnet motor should provide more energy than what it uses - one way or the other. No law of physics lets us get around the fact that such a motor could only keep spinning if the produced power or motion energy is at least the same as what is required to make it move. Magnets lose their strenght over time, they are like a very slowly depleting battery. So, isn't it funny that all magnet motors so far that claimed to work also had the requirement to replace the magnets once the things fails to work or start? And if you leave a very strong neodymium magnet shielded from outside fields or magnetic stuff than your grandkids will still find a quite strong magnet. Do a little performance test with your new magnets, like how much force is required is required to lift them off a steel plate. Make the same test with the magnets once you played around extensively with them in your motor. Now take a spare magnet that was never used from the orginal batch and compare both against each other ;) If the motor would not use energy then why are the magnets depleted to a certain degree, realted to runtime and usage time? Wait a minute! Does that now mean it actually works? Lets just say energy is certainly used. We only know similar effects from electromagnetic systems. But did anyone ever really check how much actual energy is in magnetic field generated by a non electric magnet? Get a good sized N52 neodymium magnet and check how much force is required to pull it off a steel surface. Now try to get the smallest sized electromagnet capable of that force and check how much energy it consumes at the level that equals the pulling force of the N52 magnet ;) Makes no sense to even try to compare these you will say now. I just say energy is energy and we were formed to only think in certain ways and don't even try silly things like this ;) To keep the fun up let us imagine we would actually have a similar energy available than what our electro magnet would require. In reality more because we wouldn't have electrical or flux related losses in the metal around the coil. Or is the imagined reality, no clue ;) If true it would mean even a motor with very bad efficiency would be able to create huge amounts of torque. Well, torque is basically acceleration. Which would mean our motor would not just be happy to spin, it would speed up until the bearing fail or the thing is ripped apart. Imagine a dental drill of that size and weight suddenly falling apart at full speed... Every example of motors claimed to be working, that are not fakes, seem to be happy no matter what the load is. It the thing turns a generator than it would have to slow down a bit with the increased load but they don't. With no limited factors otherwise this makes them a fake. Even a perfect motor would have to react to load changes.... Don't we agree that the stronger the magnetic force or field in a conductor the stronger the resulting magnetic and opposing field of the conductor? We use the difference to either drive a motor or take out electricity... But if you take the "open" shielding of a magnet in a changing field than the influence of the shield on the overall field gets stronger with stronger field changes. And properly desinged and orientated they would actually double as a natural limiter for the rotation speed. Once the electrical energy in the shield becomes too strong it will be able to cancel out the field of the enclosed magnet...If we assume a magnet motor is really possible and works with the intended output to keep it spinning or even take energy out: Then what would be possible downfalls that stop this thing happening in everyones garage? We can explore the stars but so far no one bothered to invent anything to visualise magnetic field in a 3 dimensional way other than by simulation. No realtime and true observation like this. The few working technologies that exist rely on sensors, interpretaion and filling in gaps. But imagine something like a detector shield as cloud! And then even better with selctive spacing to get a realtime view of where exactly the field lines go. All we can do is forget our teaching and try it out anyway ;) If by some mistake a magnet motor would really work right away, then chances are high the inventor would wonder why that thing takes off like mad and how to stop it. Unless well prepared it would certainly end in the destrution of the motor. But the inventor would know what to look for in the next prototype. The logical conclusion would be to the couple the energy taken to the speed while physically limittin the free load speed. The other one would be the design the electrical generator around the and within the motor. To even get close to this point you would have to spend endless days and nights working on finding a solution. The closer you get the more disappointment when the final model still fails to keep spinning for more than a few hours. Most people will then accept defeat and move on... Still not saying it actually works but if you made it to this point in time where it could be easier to move on and do other things:Ever wondered what would happen if you "shield" a magnet with a coil? Of course nothing would happen as we know. But try this in some fixed assembly that allows you move another magnet through the field of the shielded one. Perferably witha force gauge or some option to read out the energy required to move it through the various stages of the field. See what happens if you short the coil or add a resistor to it ;) Now if this coild is able to produce electricity then the more we use the more the effects on the required force would change. What do you think would happen if you combine common coil relations of electric motors to a "coil shielded" magnet motor? Right, all these coils would interact with the magnetic fields of the coils they are connected to... And through that with the overall field surrounding the enclosed magnet..... I leave up to you to imagine how these interacting coils could provide "resistance" or "acceleration"/"surplus electricity"...Like they say: You can only find out if you try ;) To keep up the positive thinking: A permanent magnet just sticks to any magnetic surface and does so with the same force. But the real energy loss in terms of getting weaker can almost be neglected. Any electromagnet capable of the same holding force woul require ongoing energy supplies to keep it up. It is using energy the same way the permanent magnet does! The difference is the permanent magnet is not seen as anything that would provide us with energy.... And if it can't provide energy other than passing through coils then why the heck does it keep sticking to the fridge year after year? It does require energy to keep this weight up doesn't it, even if you add a thin teflon disk and oil to reduce friction? ;) No magic, no "free energy" bogus, just plain physics viewed from a slightly different angle than what we learn in school ;) Have a good laugh and a good beer, then read it again and just consider some of the things here that are not mentioned in any literature about magnetism that we commonly use. Now I got you thinking, didn't I ? ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply